Treepep 598 #1 Posted January 8 Good afternoon fine folks! I am seeking another human or 2 to come over and help me get my GT-14 running. I need another set of eyes. I know some folks in my town. None are remotely mechanical. All the things check out. It just won't fire. I am in Willow spring NC. Thanks in advance 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,026 #2 Posted January 8 Doesn't fire...do you mean the starter spins the engine but it doesn't fire up?? Assume you sprayed a little gas into the carb and still not pop?? Does your GT14 have the breakerless ignition system? (Triangular shaped coil on front of air shroud) or battery point (cylindrical coil) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 63,255 #3 Posted January 8 Good on you for asking for help, when needed 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Treepep 598 #4 Posted January 8 I have asked a lot of questions about this specific tractor (publicly and privately) Thankful for all of the input and I appreciate the answers today. I am seeking another set of eyes. Alternatively I can trailer it to someone close who is willing to take a peak. I would not mess with the transmixer...ever. The rest is pretty straightforward. Dad changed the original ignition to points a while ago. I have replaced and gapped correctly. power goes to and through all the things. gas goes to and through. sparkler fires. all the things happen except starting. It's like the timing is off. Won't even cough with a spray of gas. Just heating up the starter. My other wheel-horse I completely rewired and mechanical restored. Perfectly fine. THIS has been a fussy baby. Frustrated to point of wanting to sell,trade, take over to Cliffs Next option is draining fuel and burying in the shed. No worky, no value in the garage. No corn fuel ever in any of my equipment or my truck. It has always been a bit fussy. startup happened or you wait an hour and retry. Im missing something. Probably could use a carb kit again. I rescued it in 2019 and it ran with a bit of a lope. by 2022 I had gone through all the things and made it a bit easier on the eyes. 2023 I don't really remember. In and out of the hospital. I had drained the gas to work on the cracked tank and replace the worn nipple. Long post sorry fellers 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Treepep 598 #5 Posted January 8 1 hour ago, pfrederi said: Doesn't fire...do you mean the starter spins the engine but it doesn't fire up?? Assume you sprayed a little gas into the carb and still not pop?? Does your GT14 have the breakerless ignition system? (Triangular shaped coil on front of air shroud) or battery point (cylindrical coil) Coil/points. No coughing just working out the starter. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
The Freightliner Guy 1,332 #6 Posted January 9 Does it seem like it has compression? Valves could be opening at the wrong time and leaking out needed compression. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Treepep 598 #7 Posted January 9 6 hours ago, The Freightliner Guy said: Does it seem like it has compression? Valves could be opening at the wrong time and leaking out needed compression. Valves are a logical answer. other than putting my finger on the empty fire hole I could not answer that. I think that it is old enough from the original restore that it is time for the engine to be rebuilt. I do not want to do that again ever. I don't like when things end and man, most things are fixable or figureoutable. I think probably shed life... for the next person. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 15,739 #8 Posted January 9 14 hours ago, Treepep said: It's like the timing is off. Have you tried static timing yet? Here is the link to the method that I use. https://mgonitzke.net/cubcadet/tools/static_timing.pdf 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 56,264 #9 Posted January 9 Your ignition points gap also establishes the ignition timing, be sure the gap is set at 0.020 with the points at their widest opening. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bassJAM 57 #10 Posted January 9 (edited) I just had a similar issue with my C 125 last month. Fuel & spark both checked fine. Drained the tank anyway because it was old fuel. Cleaned out the carb with no results. I replaced the condenser and got it to fire, but anything above an idle and it'd shake violently. Put the old condenser back on and again it would fire but ran like crap above an idle. Checked that the PTO switch was working, and cleaned the ground contact points. Finally after cleaning and adjusting the points about 10 times I just replaced the points and she fired right up and runs like she should. In hindsight the spark looked weak compared to how it does now. Edited January 9 by bassJAM 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Treepep 598 #11 Posted January 9 Have you tried static timing yet? I would need to remove the gas tank and cast iron front to accomplish that. Not sure I want to mess with that but well see. Have to as well to fuss with the carb. Pretty poor design. I love that my C series has a hood hinge. Can reach all the things without tear down. points and plug are gapped correctly. I have spare of both may swap out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AlexR 806 #12 Posted January 10 So something easy that I have sometimes had issues with is sparkplugs. Its not the gap or anything like that, just some plugs and I have even had new ones do what you are talking about, they just don't start well. You mention you have another wheelhorse that runs well, just use that plug to test it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tuneup 1,433 #13 Posted January 11 Hey there Pep, My K301 has always had a starting issue. I know it's the carb but it's perfect otherwise so I just have to remember to start it with no throttle and full choke. When she fires, decrease choke and nudge the throttle. Cold only. Any throttle and she acts dead. Maybe yours? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,897 #14 Posted January 11 @Tuneup found that the throttle plate / setting was not letting the plate fully seal off the intake compression stroke , have had that on a couple of kohler engines , often refer to functional detailing , of any mechanical set up , choke / throttle cables were not , easily moving like they should , that started my penetrating oil cable , campaign , have also added very light plate spring closure enhancement , my tractors sit for weeks / months , yet start up very easily . think I would open up the carb area , for full exposure , get a helper to move choke and throttle pull points . that will show you what's going on , my cables are super lube lubricant / wet and move with out effort , just my own experience , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites