Steven The Commando/B-80 Puller

[Easton Rich 902]

Another $200 down the drain

[ebinmaine 77,126]

Did you not have any of these parts?

[Easton Rich 902]

Nope

[Easton Rich 902]

The motor came with a carb only. It was free

[Achto 30,895]

Does your club require a tether switch on the back of the tractor? Our club requires one that will kill the ignition and the fuel pump. For this reason I had to run an electric fuel pump on mine. Not that I mind, the one I purchased was very reasonable.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Universal-Pressure-Transfer-Carburetor/dp/B08PY7V2MM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2N1RZQLUTWUU1&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.00CP0jhSZANBDuq1qwWJpDrikNZvuRfTdQfDTkG33jZvW5Q1vRFaDlXhEnBARTMgGtHCsiT3RkWRSng3wTFx1ZqmAGWANAqqpSUC8SJ475mcRp7lP69inxuWc7k9MwsPq3p26QMIDzuRzMKLMxYKnaGnq8KDX3CbjfQTgjParknLNOe8la-Ed5Wdft7lDmTZVjoJwkBy6eQEh_CXyCRp-REDdOcPiJ3qJ2ndCRyfOv4.NxZo3V9wrKnOpAx2MZMqc4ud2Ci3WeUJewZyRlPGI9o&dib_tag=se&keywords=low+pressure+electric+fuel+pump&qid=1738976360&sprefix=low+pressure+el%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1

[Easton Rich 902]

Hey, it’s been awhile but I’m back! We will paint this bad boy and get back on the engine! And to answer your question @Achto they do. How do you guys think I could fit some 26x12-12 on it? Anything appreciated 

[ebinmaine 77,126]

5 hours ago, Easton Rich said:

How do you guys think I could fit some 26x12-12 on it? Anything appreciated 

 

26 inch diameter tires won't fit without modifying the tractor. 

You'll have to raise the seat pan (fairly easy) 

AND you'll have to move the axle further away from the side steps  (not easy) 

 

If you use 24x12.00-12 those will fit. Barely.  

[Achto 30,895]

7 hours ago, Easton Rich said:

How do you guys think I could fit some 26x12-12 on it? Anything appreciated 

 

To fit 26x12x12 tires on my C101-ish I added 1/2" to the top of the riser under the seat. Pictures are in reverse order. 

 

This gave ample clearance from the tire to the fender. Had to do a little bending & grinding on the edge of the running board where it come close to the tire, but not much.

[Easton Rich 902]

I might have to run 24x12-12s because this is a short frame sooooo… we’ll see!

[ebinmaine 77,126]

3 minutes ago, Easton Rich said:

I might have to run 24x12-12s because this is a short frame sooooo… we’ll see!

 

Is the Commando a short?

 

Won't matter though....

 

The difference between short medium (1974 and 75 B80) and long is at the front. 

Rear fender areas are the same.  

 

 

 

[Easton Rich 902]

It’s a commando frame and fenders with a b80 hood and foot rests. Pretty cobbled together 

[Easton Rich 902]

For those of you who have flipped your front axle, how did you get it so the tires aren’t angled?

[Easton Rich 902]

Back on the puller! Its been a long time, but its gone thru many changes! Still a roller but I've stockpiled a TON of parts to make this work. Its now a long frame, but still has the same rear half that it did. Instead of a 10hp, its now gonna get a stroked 14hp that was N.O.S when I bought it for $5 at an estate sale. Oh by the way, @Achto this your fault lol. I just put a LSD 8spd under it so I should be good to go after the motor goes on. Its found its way to the very back of my pile where its been for a year now

[Easton Rich 902]

[Handy Don 15,782]

2 hours ago, Easton Rich said:

I just put a LSD 8spd under it so I should be good to go

As @Achto discovered, the LSD and pulling are perhaps not a great combination.

The LSD’s design is far from a true posi-traction--it provides some, but not a lot, of power to a slipping-side wheel.

To accomplish this, anytime the wheels are rotating at different speeds, there is metal-to-metal friction between the ends of the pinion gears and the diff body trying to make the wheels turn at the same speed. Over time, this wear lessens the engagement between the pinion teeth and the axle gear teeth. When the wear progresses far enough, the gear slips and that begins a rapid unplanned stripping of lots of teeth.

Edited 6 hours ago by Handy Don

[Achto 30,895]

3 hours ago, Easton Rich said:

I just put a LSD 8spd under

 

The 8 speed is not an LSD. The 6 speed 10 pinion's were LSD. The 8 speed 8 pinion open is a much better tranny though. If that is what you have, then you have 's strongest tranny. 

 

3 hours ago, Easton Rich said:

Oh by the way, @Achto this your fault lol.

 

My wife says that I'm very good at being a bad influence.  Given that fact.

 

As long as you have that 14hp apart, might I suggest a cam up grade. I plan on building a new "stock"16hp engine for mine this year and want to up grade to a K361 18hp cam ( which is hard to find ) Vogel Manufacturing will take your original cam, spray weld it, and regrind it to slightly better specs than the K361 cam. Yet it will still pass "stock" spec rules in my club. I am planning on going with their V375-CH-4K grind.

 

https://vogelmanufacturing.com/product/single-cylinder-cast-camshaft-stock-class-grind-4-000-rpm-range/

 

Some 14hp blocks can also be board out to a 16hp. You need to measure the outside of the bottom of the cylinder to see if you have enough meat to do it. Not enough meat and the cylinder will break away from the block. One advantage of doing this is that the piston is centered to the crank on a 14hp. The piston is slightly off set on a 16hp. Having the top of the block fly cut .010" to .020" will allow the piston to pop up above the cylinder creating more compression. Having the head fly cut / shaved .020" to .040" will create more compression while still retaining the gasket embossing so that you can pass stock specs. All this leads to my favorite formula for engine building ( HP = $ ) 

Edited 6 hours ago by Achto

[Easton Rich 902]

Thanks for shedding some light on that. I planned to put a cam in it, shave the head, and put a copper gasket on it. We will see what money will allow

[Achto 30,895]

38 minutes ago, Easton Rich said:

copper gasket on it

 

I've read that a copper gasket is only recommended if you are running a billet head. 

[Easton Rich 902]

Oh ok. Will a normal one hold? I saw yours blew after a pull.

[TonyToro Jr. 2,323]

38 minutes ago, Achto said:

 

I've read that a copper gasket is only recommended if you are running a billet head. 

  I have a fully built engine. (Cam,rod,piston,crank,carb,valves etc) and even after running it on the dyno, Save your money and use a stock one.

[Easton Rich 902]

Ok thank you

[Easton Rich 902]

@Achto and @TonyToro Jr. you seem to be the experts on this. What would be the best cam grind from Vogel if I shave the head down .50, maybe a solid flywheel, and run bigger valves? I’m looking to make anywhere from 22-25hp? I’m new so bear with me here.

[Achto 30,895]

3 hours ago, Easton Rich said:

Will a normal one hold? I saw yours blew after a pull.

 

My first gasket did not have a fire ring. Replacement gasket does have a fire ring, been running a long time with the new gasket. 

[Achto 30,895]

1 hour ago, Easton Rich said:

What would be the best cam grind from Vogel

 

Do you have list of rules for the class that you want to pull in? The cam I chose will pass the "stock" specs in the club I pull with. It may not pass for "stock" with other clubs.

[Easton Rich 902]

Bore can’t be more than .030 over, head can’t be shaved more than .050, and I can’t remember cam specs, but they were pretty big. Don’t want anything too crazy. Just looked, and I can’t run a solid flywheel over 22lbs in stock class.

Edited 1 hour ago by Easton Rich