Got another one. A 416 this time.

[c-series don 11,053]

@Brockport Bill Give or take a little bit I have a similar process as @cleat. I don’t think there’s a simple way to thoroughly clean it, basically it’s a tedious time consuming process. Years ago a friend of mine had a machine shop with a low pressure steam cleaner to clean engine blocks and heads. I thought this would be a great way to clean a transmission, after the hydraulic ports and the fill were properly plugged of course. Currently I have an Eaton 1100 on my bench that needs to be cleaned better before I can paint it and have it for a spare. Maybe with the super cold weather predicted for the next 10 or so days I can get some shop time in and get on this. 

[cleat 8,540]

Wheel stud bolts 7/16 x 1- 1/2 20 NF ready to install.

I use washers for all but two studs.

Blue loctite will be used to retain bolts in position.

 

Left hub ready for bolts to be installed.

Bolt holes have been cleaned out with a 7/16 NF tap and blown clear.

 

Right hub ready for bolts to be installed.

 

Note the bub set screw and a wheel bolt line up in this one place on each hub.

The bolt without a washer gets installed here.

This is for clearance so the hub set screw can be properly torqued later on.

 

Wheel stud bolts partly installed.

 

Loctite applied to all bolts.

 

Left wheel stud bolts screwed in and tightened.

 

Right wheel stud bolts screwed in and tightened.

 

This is how I tightened the wheel stud bolts.

I did not torque them, just pulled them tight.

 

 

[cleat 8,540]

Hub set screws and jamb nuts ready to install.

 

Hub set screws jamb nuts screwed on and never seize applied.

 

Hub set screws installed finger tight making sure jamb nuts remain loose and not contacting hub.

 

Hub set screws torqued to 30 ft/lb.

Again, make sure jamb nuts are loose and not contacting hub or the set screw may not actually be contacting the axle.

 

Hub set screw jamb nuts torqued to 17 ft/lb.

 

3-8 inch 8 point socket used to torque hub set screws.

 

8 point socket on set screw showing clearance to wheel stud bolt head.

You can see why a washer was not placed under this bolt.

 

Torque wrench and 3-8 inch 8 point socket and short extension used to torque hub set screws to 30 ft/lb.

 

Torque wrench and deep 9-16 socket used to torque hub jamb nuts to 17 ft/lb.

 

[cleat 8,540]

Spindles and washers ready to install.

 

Spindle washers and retaining rings ready to install.

At the top you see 4 0.01" thin shim washers and 2 1/32" teflon washers

Then you see the retaining rings and 2 thicker shim washers (I forgot to measure the thickness of these).

 

Thin shim washer slid onto spindle.

 

Teflon washer slid onto spindle.

 

Second shim washer slid onto spindle.

 

Stack of shim and teflon washers.

This will be the thrust bearing to make steering easier.

 

Spindle ready to install into front axle.

 

Spindle lightly greased then installed into front axle.

 

Top thicker shim washer slid onto spindle (you use whatever thickness is required to eliminate excess vertical play once retaining ring is installed).

 

Retaining ring installed onto spindle.

 

Spindle installed.

 

Spindle installed onto other side exactly the same way.

 

Spindles installed.

 

 

[lynnmor 8,467]

2 hours ago, cleat said:

Top thicker shim washer slid onto spindle (you use whatever thickness is required to eliminate excess vertical play once retaining ring is installed).

 

 

Retaining ring installed onto spindle.

 

Not enough space to use a needle thrust bearing?

Edited Sunday at 04:41 PM by lynnmor

[WHX?? 54,087]

Why this route and not 520 style bearings? I would have also considered the bronze oil lite washers.

Edited Sunday at 04:41 PM by WHX??

[cleat 8,540]

I went this route because I had everything here already.

A needle bearing would have to be very thin like 1/32" to fit without modification. 

Once I get to test drive this machine then I will know how it steers.

 

[WHX?? 54,087]

On 1/22/2026 at 8:05 AM, cleat said:

I punched some ventilation holes with an electrical knockout punch.

 I have a spare belt cover and knock outs may try this for the 520 FEL.

I have just cut out a section with intent to put hardware cloth on but never did. 

[cleat 8,540]

Tie rods ready to be installed.

Outer ends stock with new Heim inner joints.

 

Tie rod outer ends greased.

I worked it in as much as possible.

 

Tie rods installed.

I used non-locking nuts for now on the outer end until final alignment is done.

Inner tie rod ends are held tight using lock washers for now at least.

 

Greased spindles and axle pivot.

 

Now out to plow or blow snow.

 

[cleat 8,540]

Grease fittings ready to be installed into front wheels.

These are longer than I would like but they are what I have on hand.

The regular length ones are too short to be screwed in properly.

 

Front wheel ready for grease fitting to be installed.

 

Front wheel grease fitting installed.

 

Front wheel bearings ready to be installed.

 

Front wheel bearings used.

 

Front wheel bearings inner seals removed.

They actually had more grease in them than I expected.

 

Front wheel bearings ready to be pressed in.

I used a 1-1/8" socket to press on the outer race so any chance of bearing damage is eliminated.

 

Front wheel bearings installed.

 

[cleat 8,540]

Front wheels ready to be installed.

 

Front wheel shim washers hubcap washers cotter pins and hubcaps ready to be installed.

 

Front axle tilted up so wheel slides onto spindle easier.

 

Front wheel slid onto spindle.

 

Shim washers then hub cap washer slid on and cotter pin slid in to find proper shim washers required.

This is trial and error with the shim washers I had on hand until I found the right combination that allows the cotter pin to be inserted but eliminated excess play.

 

I then removed the cotter pin and all washers.

Front wheel removed from spindle and shim washers then slid onto the spindle.

Front wheel slid back on and hub cap washer and cotter pin installed.

Cotter pin slid in nicely without forcing it but no in and out free play was found.

Cotter pin then bent to hold it in place.

 

Front wheel is installed.

Hub cap will be installed after greasing front wheel.

 

Process repeated for the other side.

Both front wheels now installed.

 

Tractor as of today.

 

[cleat 8,540]

Front wheel greased then the hub cap was installed.

 

Edited 1 hour ago by cleat