c-series don 10,979 #301 Posted 12 hours ago @Brockport Bill Give or take a little bit I have a similar process as @cleat. I don’t think there’s a simple way to thoroughly clean it, basically it’s a tedious time consuming process. Years ago a friend of mine had a machine shop with a low pressure steam cleaner to clean engine blocks and heads. I thought this would be a great way to clean a transmission, after the hydraulic ports and the fill were properly plugged of course. Currently I have an Eaton 1100 on my bench that needs to be cleaned better before I can paint it and have it for a spare. Maybe with the super cold weather predicted for the next 10 or so days I can get some shop time in and get on this. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,511 #302 Posted 3 minutes ago Wheel stud bolts 7/16 x 1- 1/2 20 NF ready to install. I use washers for all but two studs. Blue loctite will be used to retain bolts in position. Left hub ready for bolts to be installed. Bolt holes have been cleaned out with a 7/16 NF tap and blown clear. Right hub ready for bolts to be installed. Note the bub set screw and a wheel bolt line up in this one place on each hub. The bolt without a washer gets installed here. This is for clearance so the hub set screw can be properly torqued later on. Wheel stud bolts partly installed. Loctite applied to all bolts. Left wheel stud bolts screwed in and tightened. Right wheel stud bolts screwed in and tightened. This is how I tightened the wheel stud bolts. I did not torque them, just pulled them tight. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
