Got another one. A 416 this time.

[cleat 8,504]

Front tach and hood pivot ready for assembly.

 

Front tach lock assembly ready to install.

 

Front tach lock and shaft partly inserted then E clip installed.

 

Front tach lock spring slid onto shaft then shaft full inserted and E clip installed on opposite end from spring.

 

Front tach lock slid over on shaft then the final E clip installed.

 

Front tach lock release grip installed.

 

Front tach latch assembly ready to install.

 

Front tach latch pin has one E clip installed and is greased.

 

Front tach latch pin slid into place and second E clip is installed.

 

Latch shown in open position.

 

Hood stop rod of my own design ready to install.

I think Wheel Horse dropped the ball a bit on this design as the cotter pins get hit by the hood brackets.

I use a solid 1/4" rod (you could use the original for this) slid into a piece of 3/8" tubing that has one hole drilled through to accept a cotter pin that holds everything together. Mine are all stainless steel but that is not required.

 

Hood stop rod installed ready for cotter pin.

 

Hood stop rod fully installed.

 

Hood pivot assembly ready to install.

There was some wear in the original rod and pivot brackets so I drilled the brackets and housing to 1/2"

I then made up a 1/2" rod with holes drilled to accept cotter pins.

 

Hood pivot shaft partly inserted and Right pivot bracket slid onto shaft.

 

Hood pivot shaft partly inserted and both pivot brackets and washers slid onto shaft.

 

Hood pivot shaft fully inserted and pivot brackets and washers slid into place on  shaft.

 

Hood pivot cotter pins installed.

 

Front tach and hood pivot assembled.

 

This is the tool I use to install the E clips.

Edited January 14 by cleat

[ebinmaine 76,677]

@jsoluna

That post is THE definitive reference for your front tach o matic.  

[ebinmaine 76,677]

2 hours ago, cleat said:

This is the tool I use to install the E clips.

 

Very nice.  I use a combo platter of hammuh 🔨  ⚒️  screwdrivah  🪛  and call BBT.  

[jsoluna 435]

40 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

@jsoluna

That post is THE definitive reference for your front tach o matic.  

No doubt.  What a fantastic documentation and resource.

[cleat 8,504]

Front tach assembly ready to install.

 

Tractor frame ready for front tach assembly ready to be installed.

 

Front tach assembly loosely bolted on with regular non-locking nut just to hold it in position.

 

Front tach assembly bolted on with nyloc nuts torqued to 30 ft/lb.

 

Front tach installed.

 

Crow foot socket required to torque top center bolt of front tach.

The two lower bolts can be torqued with a regular socket and a short extension.

 

[cleat 8,504]

Front axle ready to be installed.

 

Front axle pin ready to be installed.

I made this up at my old work place and it uses a cotter pin instead of an E clip for the secondary retainer.

3/4" pin is stainless steel and the tab is carbon steel.

 

Tractor ready for front axle to be installed.

 

Front axle installed.

 

Front axle pivot pin bolt installed and torqued to 17 ft/lb.

 

Front axle pivot pin stainless cotter pin and thin shim washer installed.

 

Tractor assembly as of today.

 

Edited January 16 by cleat

[cleat 8,504]

Steering wheel and tube ready to be installed.

 

Tractor ready for steering wheel to be installed.

 

Steering tube slid onto steering shaft.

 

Never seize applied to steering shaft.

 

Flat then bowed washers slid onto steering shaft.

 

Spirol pin never seized then partly installed into steering wheel but not blocking shaft hole.

 

Steering wheel slid onto shaft then a 1/4" pin slid in opposite the spirol pin to align holes in the steering wheel and steering shaft.

There is just a small amount of tension from the bowed washer to hold the tube in position.

 

Spirol pin ready to be driven in.

 

Spirol pin driven in with this punch that has a locating bump on the end.

 

Spirol pin driven in until the pin protrudes out of each side of steering wheel.

 

Steering wheel installed.

 

Steering wheel and tube installed.

 

[cleat 8,504]

Flywheel screen ready to install.

 

Flywheel screen bolts and screws ready to install.

 

Flywheel ready for screen to be installed.

 

Flywheel screen loosely bolted on with the four center bolts.

Note the upper right hand center bolt is in line with an outer screen hole.

It is critical to line this up right or the outer screw holes will not line up.

 

Flywheel screen loosely bolted on with the four center bolts and the six outer screws.

 

Flywheel screen bolts torqued to 180 in/lb and screws torqued to 22.5 in/lb.

 

Flywheel screen installed.

 

[cleat 8,504]

Foot rest rubber bumpers ready to install.

These are just what I happen to have here, not really the ones that were used originally.

 

Foot rest rubber bumpers silicone used as adhesive since the holes in the foot rests are just slightly too big for the bumpers to firmly snap onto.

 

Foot rests ready for rubber bumpers to be installed.

I cleaned the footrest and rubber bumper where the silicone is to be applied with contact cleaner so it will bond better.

 

Foot rest rubber bumpers installed.

I used a small screwdriver to apply just a thin layer of silicone to the rubber bumper before installing them to the foot rests.

 

[cleat 8,504]

Foot rests ready to install.

 

Left side foot rest ready to install.

 

Right side foot rest ready to install.

 

Tractor ready for foot rests to be installed.

 

Now I need to wait a while for the silicone to cure so don't knock the bumpers off installing the foot rests.

 

[cleat 8,504]

Took a break for a snack and a coffee, silicone seems to be holding foot rest bumpers well.

 

Foot rest clips installed.

 

Left foot rest installed.

 

Right foot rest installed.

 

All four foot rest bolts torqued to 204 in/lb.

 

Right foot rest installed showing clips underneath.

 

 

[cleat 8,504]

Now that the foot rests are on I can set the foot pedal height.

 

I initially screwed the heim joint in all the way on the foot pedal control rod so the pedal is too far forward as shown.

 

Here I am holding the pedal in full reverse and you can see the large gap between the reverse pedal and the foot rest.

 

To adjust the pedal, unbolt the heim joint from the foot pedal and unscrew it a few turns on the rod then bolt it back to the pedal.

Then push the pedal to full reverse again.

When you have it set right the pedal will almost touch the foot rest but there should be a small gap.

This will ensure you have full reverse speed.

Once the heim is set in the right place the jamb nut can be tightened on the control rod to lock the heim joint in place.

Here is the foot pedal in full reverse showing the slight gap to the foot rest.

 

Here is how the foot pedal sits in neutral now.

 

Tractor overview as of today.

 

Edited Monday at 03:58 PM by cleat

[cleat 8,504]

Rear receiver hitch ready to install.

I made this up a few years ago at a previous work place.

It is really just two pieces of 2" angle iron welded to a piece of 2" square tubing and the receiver is 2-1/2" square tubing.

 

Rear receiver hitch sat in place held up by jack stand.

 

Rear receiver hitch attaching hardware installed and loosely bolted up allowing a little free play to adjust hitch.

Rear receiver hitch centered side to side.

 

Rear receiver hitch bolts evenly snugged keeping hitch gently pulled rearward.

 

Rear receiver hitch bolts torqued to 28 ft/lb.

 

Rear receiver hitch installed.

 

[c-series don 10,978]

Cleat, it looks like if anyone would benefit from a lift table it would be you! I have a bad back, so I bought one years ago and it is a definite game changer. Being able to work on tractors without bending over is a joy. If I don’t feel like standing I just sit on my shop stool and work. No more kneeling or laying on the concrete. I actually have two tables, one that I built out of wood that is on casters and fits under the workbench when not in use and one that is an actual lift table. The wood one is mostly used for projects that I know will be on there for a while, like a restoration and the lift table for everything else. I think I paid around $5-600 dollars for the lift table from Harbor Freight and then made a wider top out of two layers of plywood. I’m thinking about putting better casters on it because once a tractor is on it, it’s difficult to move. My wooden table has good casters so I wheel it over next to my toolbox and workbench when I want to work on the tractor and then push it out of the way when I’m done. 
Also as I’ve said here before, you restorations are second to none! Keep up the good work, we always like to follow along 👍🏻

[cleat 8,504]

5 hours ago, c-series don said:

Cleat, it looks like if anyone would benefit from a lift table it would be you! I have a bad back, so I bought one years ago and it is a definite game changer. Being able to work on tractors without bending over is a joy. If I don’t feel like standing I just sit on my shop stool and work. No more kneeling or laying on the concrete. I actually have two tables, one that I built out of wood that is on casters and fits under the workbench when not in use and one that is an actual lift table. The wood one is mostly used for projects that I know will be on there for a while, like a restoration and the lift table for everything else. I think I paid around $5-600 dollars for the lift table from Harbor Freight and then made a wider top out of two layers of plywood. I’m thinking about putting better casters on it because once a tractor is on it, it’s difficult to move. My wooden table has good casters so I wheel it over next to my toolbox and workbench when I want to work on the tractor and then push it out of the way when I’m done. 
Also as I’ve said here before, you restorations are second to none! Keep up the good work, we always like to follow along 👍🏻

 

Thanks for the complements.

 

I am pressed for space right now in that I have my truck, the wifes explorer, and my plow tractor all taking up space in my shop right now.

 

My plan is to get another two car garage built next summer so my shop can actually just be a shop and not storage so at that point I may well buy or build a lift table that will likely do double duty of tractor maintenance and also a better way to clean the mower deck after each use where now I crawl under each time.

 

[ebinmaine 76,677]

1 hour ago, cleat said:

shop can actually just be a shop

 

Having recently done that here  - it's an absolute game changer. 

[cleat 8,504]

Hydro fan ready to install.

 

Tractor ready for hydro fan ready to be installed.

 

Hydro fan installed bolt torqued to 84 in/lb.

 

Hydro fan installed.

 

[cleat 8,504]

Here are the plans I drew up for the rear hitch.

 

Wheel Horse heavy duty rear hitch plans.pdf

 

And here are the plans for the flat plates to bolt the hitch on (two required).

 

Rear hitch plate.pdf

 

[Brockport Bill 2,183]

Cleat and C-Series Don, etc: I have only really done one Hydro tranny "restore" --- don't have another planned right now but just in case I have another future hydo rehab,  I wanted to ask everyone what they do to clean the fins before the painting? Obviously wash, clean etc -- but for those fins with dirt, grime, oil etc in between those small spaces between fins do you have any special tips -- I used various brushes and dental tool picks etc etc, but it was very frustrating and tedious to be sure the old paint was clean enough or removed for new paint to have solid coverage and stick!

[cleat 8,504]

2 minutes ago, Brockport Bill said:

Cleat and C-Series Don, etc: I have only really done one Hydro tranny "restore" --- don't have another planned right now but just in case I have another future hydo rehab,  I wanted to ask everyone what they do to clean the fins before the painting? Obviously wash, clean etc -- but for those fins with dirt, grime, oil etc in between those small spaces between fins do you have any special tips -- I used various brushes and dental tool picks etc etc, but it was very frustrating and tedious to be sure the old paint was clean enough or removed for new paint to have solid coverage and stick!

 

I start by removing all the sheet metal, gas tank etc to fully expose the hydro unit.

 

Remove the drive pulley as there are fins and the lift pump behind it as well.

 

Then blow it off as good as you can using compressed air.

 

After that spray it down well with engine degreaser (might as well do the engine at the same time).

 

Using a small paint brush sprayed down with the same degreaser work around all the fins until everything seems loose (you might need to use a small screwdriver to pick out tough spots).

Don't forget the bottom of the transmission.

 

After that a good spraying with a garden hose should clean it, I have a pressure washer but have not used it for this.

 

I then spray it down with a cleaner like spray nine to wash off the degreaser and work that in with a brush then hose it off again.

 

Once it dries give it a good inspection to be sure you did not miss any spots.

 

That degreases it but loose flaky paint may still remain. I use a wire wheel in an angle grinder to polish the entire hydro and rear end to get it ready for paint.

 

You might need to use a small wire brush to clean small spaces by hand.

 

A final blow down with compressed air and you should be ready for paint.

 

You may not get it perfect but it will be much much beter.

 

[Bar Nuthin 2,099]

11 hours ago, cleat said:

Here are the plans I drew up for the rear hitch.

Does your hitch have any type of diagonal brace for vertical support? Or, do you feel it's not needed? 

Obviously, mine required it because I used flat bar stock as a cross bar (hitch for my Cyclone Rake), and it also gets used to maneuver my stone trailer around. Plus, I think the diagonal takes a lot of stress off the bolts.

 

[cleat 8,504]

9 hours ago, Bar Nuthin said:

Does your hitch have any type of diagonal brace for vertical support? Or, do you feel it's not needed? 

Obviously, mine required it because I used flat bar stock as a cross bar (hitch for my Cyclone Rake), and it also gets used to maneuver my stone trailer around. Plus, I think the diagonal takes a lot of stress off the bolts.

 

 

Yes that brace would add strength.

When I designed and built mine I had not seen one before and did not think to add that brace.

 

That said, I have four tractors with my design hitch and have moved some heavy loads without issue over the years.

[peter lena 9,658]

@cleat  that  battery tray area  is what stared me on , eliminating  regular , consistent issues , also  very simple , experimentation stage ? started with  washers  to  firm up initial movement stage , of course , lucas green , to insure , that smooth / solid action , that led me to  heim joint experimentation , on angularity  movement change , you know where i,m  going . your break down work , far exceeds mine , don,t have the set up for it . that led me to the next repetitive failure stage , every  related bearing , was cleaned out  and lucasized , with  over rated lubrication , that led me to  a " WHY NOT "  trial  of  repetitive issue , you already know what fails , really like doing that  . also say  paint it red  or black , and you don't even see it , for me I think  bearing failure  , is the  basis of   tractor issues . my first, deck rebuild , was the basis for  my view on basics , used that as a foundation  , to every stage , i,m at the end of my , tractor  involvement , but like to see what's going on , retired millwright , pete 

[cleat 8,504]

Right side cover ready to install.

I punched some ventilation holes with an electrical knockout punch.

This is a cover I had on hand and is not in perfect condition as it has some pitting and a wear hole at the very top.

The one from this tractor originally had the bolt near the front for the plastic belt cover that I am not using on this build.

 

Right side cover hardware ready to install.

 

Tractor ready for right side cover to be installed.

 

Right side cover speed nuts installed.

 

Right side cover sat in place.

 

Right side cover loosely bolted into place.

 

Edited 1 hour ago by cleat

[cleat 8,504]

Left side cover ready to install.

This is the side cover from the 520H that I converted to a 520-8

I like this cover better than the original one from this tractor as the paint is good and it has the OPEI sticker on it.

 

Left side cover hardware ready to install.

 

Left side cover rubber plug installed as I converted tractor to old style parking brake that comes up through shift plate.

 

Left side cover ready for speed nuts to be installed.

 

Left side cover speed nuts installed.

 

Tractor ready for left side cover to be installed.

 

Left side cover sat in place.

 

Left side cover front bolt and bottom screw loosely installed.

Top screws will be installed when the shift plate is installed.