Got another one. A 416 this time.

[lynnmor 8,327]

This may be one of four potential places for the heat shields to cut into the manifold, I grind the shields back a bit for clearance.

 

[cleat 8,255]

41 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

This may be one of four potential places for the heat shields to cut into the manifold, I grind the shields back a bit for clearance.

 

I will make sure there is clearance for all the heat shields during assembly. 

[Bill D 2,484]

When I clean a carb I like to remove the plug circled in blue and remove the main jet for cleaning.   On one of my carbs,  removing the main jet allowed me to flush some additional debris out of the passage the main jet screws into.  On an engine that already runs lean from the factory, this can be critical. 

[Bill D 2,484]

Deleted.  Duplicate post.

Edited December 28, 2025 by Bill D
Duplicate post deleted

[cleat 8,255]

1 hour ago, Bill D said:

When I clean a carb I like to remove the plug circled in blue and remove the main jet for cleaning.   On one of my carbs,  removing the main jet allowed me to flush some additional debris out of the passage the main jet screws into.  On an engine that already runs lean from the factory, this can be critical. 

There was real good flow out of the main jet when back flushing with carb cleaner so I think it will be fine.

I can remove this on the engine if necessary later on. 

 

 

[Bill D 2,484]

3 hours ago, cleat said:

Intake has been split, cleaned, tapped and bolted back together with a thin coat of sealer.

Intake was then pressure tested to 5 PSI and checked for leaks, none found.

I did that last summer and unfortunately I did not get pictures.

What sealer did you use?  I resealed a manifold 2 years ago using Motoseal 1 based on the recommendation of another Redsquare member.   Came out well.

Edited December 28, 2025 by Bill D

[cleat 8,255]

19 hours ago, Bill D said:

What sealer did you use?  I resealed a manifold 2 years ago using Motoseal 1 based on the recommendation of another Redsquare member.   Came out well.

 

I used Dow 732 sealant mainly because that is what I had on hand.

 

Edited December 29, 2025 by cleat

[cleat 8,255]

Intake assembly ready to be installed.

Bolt length is 2" for maximum thread engagement without bottoming out.

 

Intake manifold to block gaskets used.

 

Engine ready for intake installation.

Threaded holes chased with bottoming tap for maximum thread engagement to help prevent stripping.

 

Intake gaskets sat in place.

 

Intake assembly sat in place and loosely bolted to rear cylinder.

 

Dipstick tube bracket installed and front cylinder bolts installed.

Intake bolts torqued to 96 in/lb.

 

Dipstick tube screw installed and tightened.

 

Intake manifold assembly installed.

Wire harness is still able to be moved under the manifold so it is not pinched.

 

 

[cleat 8,255]

Flywheel ready to be installed.

 

Engine ready for flywheel to be installed.

 

Flywheel slid onto crankshaft.

Note that the crankshaft and center bore of flywheel are to be clean and dry with no lube of any sort.

 

Flywheel bolt ready to install with a very light coat of grease under the small washer and a light coat of never seize on bolt threads.

 

Flywheel bolt with the two washers installed and torqued to 50 ft/lb.

 

[peter lena 9,624]

@cleat great pictures as usual !   noting the pto lever start area  , found that  teflon and metal washers and  silicone grease  really firm up and enhance  INITIAL  FUNCTION , also changing out the  lever rod TRUNION for a HEIM joint , easy rethread right over  original  threading  with a  3/8 FINE X 24 , die nut , makes it simple , also cleaned out  original  pto cone needle bearings , a very light coating of  lucas  xtra hd , green chassis grease  550 temp flash point  , polyurea rated , the engagement / spin up  is  ridiculously  smooth easy , quiet . BTW  ever clamp your tubing bender  into a bench vise ? worked with an instrintment tech , that did that , takes a while to get the hang of it  , but lets you make perfect matches , sure you are always thinking  of  an improvement stage .  that pto lever cone set up is loaded with  improvements , once done , years in use , with no issues , stay at it , pete         

[cleat 8,255]

1 hour ago, peter lena said:

@cleat great pictures as usual !   noting the pto lever start area  , found that  teflon and metal washers and  silicone grease  really firm up and enhance  INITIAL  FUNCTION , also changing out the  lever rod TRUNION for a HEIM joint , easy rethread right over  original  threading  with a  3/8 FINE X 24 , die nut , makes it simple , also cleaned out  original  pto cone needle bearings , a very light coating of  lucas  xtra hd , green chassis grease  550 temp flash point  , polyurea rated , the engagement / spin up  is  ridiculously  smooth easy , quiet . BTW  ever clamp your tubing bender  into a bench vise ? worked with an instrintment tech , that did that , takes a while to get the hang of it  , but lets you make perfect matches , sure you are always thinking  of  an improvement stage .  that pto lever cone set up is loaded with  improvements , once done , years in use , with no issues , stay at it , pete         

 

Great idea on the Heim joint, I will keep the trunion for now.

 

Yes, I clamp my tube benders in a vise whenever I can, actually my larger 5/8 and 3/4" tube benders have a boss on them for clamping into a vise.

 

I went to the Swagelok training facility in Ottawa and got trained on tube bending.

 

[cleat 8,255]

Governor control assembly and wire clip ready to be installed to blower housing.

 

Governor control assembly ready to be installed to blower housing.

 

Blower housing ready for governor control assembly to be installed.

 

Cable bracket installed to blower housing with the bolt ran down finger tight.

 

Flat washer and bushing sat on cable bracket.

 

Governor control arm placed onto bushing then a flat washer was placed on top then the bolt was installed.

Both bolts then tightened.

 

Wire clip ready to be installed to blower housing.

Note the different threads on this bolt.

 

Blower housing ready for wire clip to be installed.

 

Wire clip installed to blower housing.

 

Governor control assembly and wire clip installed to blower housing.

 

 

 

Edited December 31, 2025 by cleat

[cleat 8,255]

Blower housing ready to be installed onto engine block.

 

Blower housing installed.

All 4 bolts installed loose then tightened.

 

Ignition coil ready to be installed.

 

Ignition coil ready to be installed and black - wire from module installed and tightened.

Red + wire from module and yellow ignition wire from engine harness installed onto + terminal on coil and nut threaded on loose as the condenser still needs to be installed.

Yes, on an Onan the condenser goes on the + terminal.

 

 

[cleat 8,255]

Fuel pump ready to install.

 

Fuel pump screwed to blower housing and crankcase vacuum pulse hose hooked up.

 

Voltage regulator ready to be installed.

 

Voltage regulator installed into Right side cover.

 

Right side cover ready to be installed.

 

Right side cover installed.

I also verified good electrical connection between regulator body and engine block.

 

[cleat 8,255]

Engine plate ready to install.

 

Tractor ready for engine plate to be installed.

 

All hardware installed and nuts left just loose enough that the plate can move.

Plate pulled fully forward as far as it will move (this will give maximum belt tension later on).

Plate checked to be sure it is square to the frame.

 

Left side bolts snugged to hold plate in proper position.

 

Battery cable clips orientated as they were during disassembly then right side bolts snugged.

 

All four bolts torqued to 30 ft/lb.

 

 

[cleat 8,255]

Engine ready to install.

Negative battery cable is installed at this time as well.

 

I placed some thick paper towels down on engine plate to protect the paint.

 

Engine sat into place then the two Right side bolts and washers dropped in to maintain a rough alignment.

I ripped the paper towels and put them back under the engine to keep the paint protected during the next step.

 

Left side bolts and washers dropped into place.

Engine will need to be tilted up to get the bolts in, this step is a bit tricky and might be better with two people.

 

All nuts, washers, lockwashers, and negative battery cable installed but left loose.

Note the location of the negative battery cable and it's toothed lockwashers.

Paper towel removed.

 

Engine slid forward as far as it will go then using a straight edge I verified that the engine and transmission pullies were in alignment.

 

All four bolts were then snugged and then torqued to 30 ft/lb.

 

Tractor as of today.

 

[cleat 8,255]

Left side cover ready to install on engine.

 

Left side cover hardware ready to install.

5/16 bolt and washer are only temporary for alignment.

 

Throttle cable clip ready to install.

 

Left side cover installed.

 

[cleat 8,255]

Capacitor ready to bolt to air cleaner support.

 

Capacitor bolted to air cleaner support wire clip and grommet ready to install.

 

Wire clip and grommet installed to air cleaner support.

 

Air cleaner support installed and held level while mounting nut was tightened.

 

Capacitor connected to positive terminal on coil and nut tightened.

 

Governor control rod , clip, and spring ready to install.

 

Governor control rod hooked onto carburetor throttle linkage then throttle held wide open.

Governor was then also held fully towards carb then the rod was determined to align with the center hole on the governor.

Governor control rod clip slid onto governor over the center hole as determined.

 

Governor control line clipped into position and spring hooked up on both ends.

 

Carb to filter fuel line and clamps ready to install.

 

Carb to filter fuel line inserted into grommet then a clamp installed up the line to the grommet.

 

Carb to filter fuel line installed and clamp moved to final position.

Clamp slid onto other end of fuel line in preparation of the fuel filer that will come later.

 

Governor spring ready to install.

 

Governor spring installed as per manual.

 

Edited Friday at 04:32 PM by cleat

[cleat 8,255]

Hydro drive idler pulley ready to install.

Pulley bearing was greased in a previous step and spins nice and smooth.

 

Bolt and washer installed into pulley and threads protrude about 0.24"

Since pivot rod where the pulley mounts is 0.25" thick then that is perfect (don't want any threads protruding out the back side to possibly jamb things up).

 

Tractor ready for hydro drive idler pulley to be installed.

 

Hydro drive idler pulley installed and torqued to 30 ft/lb.

 

Hydro drive belt installed onto pulleys.

 

Hydro drive belt fully installed.

It is a hard pull to hold the pulley up as far as it will go and slip belt underneath.

 

I used the belt that came on this 416H because it was in great shape.

 

[cleat 8,255]

Belt guard 5/16 x 3/4" carriage bolt and push nut ready to be installed.

 

Belt guard carriage bolt inserted into bracket.

It is a tight fit so maybe I should have done this before installing the engine.

 

Belt guard carriage bolt push nut ready to be installed.

It is called a push nut but I screwed it on.

 

Belt guard carriage bolt and push nut installed.

The push nut holds the carriage bolt from falling out but it can still move around in the bracket.

 

[cleat 8,255]

Positive battery cable ready to be installed.

 

Starter motor solenoid ready for wires to be installed.

 

Starter motor solenoid tooth lockwasher installed.

 

Starter motor solenoid battery cable, charge wire and wire harness feed wire installed.

 

Starter motor solenoid wire retaining nut installed and tightened.

 

Starter motor solenoid cover ready to install.

Also shown is the toothed lockwasher that is already installed.

 

Starter motor solenoid wire cover installed.

 

Starter motor solenoid wire cover retaining nut installed and solenoid wire plugged in.

 

Wire harness tied to dipstick tube.

 

Positive battery cable clipped into place.

 

Positive battery cable now fully installed.

 

 

[cleat 8,255]

Throttle cable ready to install.

 

Throttle cable sat in position.

 

Throttle cable partly installed.

 

Throttle cable fully installed.

 

[cleat 8,255]

Choke cable ready to install.

 

Choke cable installed and choke closed.

 

Choke cable installed and choke open.

 

[cleat 8,255]

Fuel line from pump to filter and fuel filter ready to install.

 

Fuel line installed on pump outlet.

 

Clamp installed on fuel line down an inch or so.

 

Filter pushed into fuel line.

 

Clamp moved to proper place on filter inlet, filter outlet fuel line pushed on.

 

Both clamps installed on fuel lines at filter.

 

Fuel line from pump to carb complete.

 

 

[Bill D 2,484]

I'd consider replacing the tin retaining nut for the choke cable with a 3/8-24 keps nut.  Much sturdier installation. Also, consider drilling the rivet out on the throttle lever pivot and replace it with a bolt and nut to allow adjustment of the throttle lever tension.  I do that on all my tractors.

Edited Sunday at 08:30 PM by Bill D