lynnmor 8,303 #226 Posted Sunday at 04:28 PM This may be one of four potential places for the heat shields to cut into the manifold, I grind the shields back a bit for clearance. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,201 #227 Posted Sunday at 05:11 PM 41 minutes ago, lynnmor said: This may be one of four potential places for the heat shields to cut into the manifold, I grind the shields back a bit for clearance. I will make sure there is clearance for all the heat shields during assembly. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 2,468 #228 Posted Sunday at 05:44 PM When I clean a carb I like to remove the plug circled in blue and remove the main jet for cleaning. On one of my carbs, removing the main jet allowed me to flush some additional debris out of the passage the main jet screws into. On an engine that already runs lean from the factory, this can be critical. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 2,468 #229 Posted Sunday at 05:45 PM (edited) Deleted. Duplicate post. Edited Sunday at 05:46 PM by Bill D Duplicate post deleted Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,201 #230 Posted Sunday at 06:57 PM 1 hour ago, Bill D said: When I clean a carb I like to remove the plug circled in blue and remove the main jet for cleaning. On one of my carbs, removing the main jet allowed me to flush some additional debris out of the passage the main jet screws into. On an engine that already runs lean from the factory, this can be critical. There was real good flow out of the main jet when back flushing with carb cleaner so I think it will be fine. I can remove this on the engine if necessary later on. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 2,468 #231 Posted Sunday at 07:08 PM (edited) 3 hours ago, cleat said: Intake has been split, cleaned, tapped and bolted back together with a thin coat of sealer. Intake was then pressure tested to 5 PSI and checked for leaks, none found. I did that last summer and unfortunately I did not get pictures. What sealer did you use? I resealed a manifold 2 years ago using Motoseal 1 based on the recommendation of another Redsquare member. Came out well. Edited Sunday at 07:09 PM by Bill D 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,201 #232 Posted Monday at 02:22 PM (edited) 19 hours ago, Bill D said: What sealer did you use? I resealed a manifold 2 years ago using Motoseal 1 based on the recommendation of another Redsquare member. Came out well. I used Dow 732 sealant mainly because that is what I had on hand. Edited Monday at 02:35 PM by cleat Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,201 #233 Posted Monday at 02:49 PM Intake assembly ready to be installed. Bolt length is 2" for maximum thread engagement without bottoming out. Intake manifold to block gaskets used. Engine ready for intake installation. Threaded holes chased with bottoming tap for maximum thread engagement to help prevent stripping. Intake gaskets sat in place. Intake assembly sat in place and loosely bolted to rear cylinder. Dipstick tube bracket installed and front cylinder bolts installed. Intake bolts torqued to 96 in/lb. Dipstick tube screw installed and tightened. Intake manifold assembly installed. Wire harness is still able to be moved under the manifold so it is not pinched. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,201 #234 Posted yesterday at 02:07 PM Flywheel ready to be installed. Engine ready for flywheel to be installed. Flywheel slid onto crankshaft. Note that the crankshaft and center bore of flywheel are to be clean and dry with no lube of any sort. Flywheel bolt ready to install with a very light coat of grease under the small washer and a light coat of never seize on bolt threads. Flywheel bolt with the two washers installed and torqued to 50 ft/lb. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,596 #235 Posted yesterday at 02:35 PM @cleat great pictures as usual ! noting the pto lever start area , found that teflon and metal washers and silicone grease really firm up and enhance INITIAL FUNCTION , also changing out the lever rod TRUNION for a HEIM joint , easy rethread right over original threading with a 3/8 FINE X 24 , die nut , makes it simple , also cleaned out original pto cone needle bearings , a very light coating of lucas xtra hd , green chassis grease 550 temp flash point , polyurea rated , the engagement / spin up is ridiculously smooth easy , quiet . BTW ever clamp your tubing bender into a bench vise ? worked with an instrintment tech , that did that , takes a while to get the hang of it , but lets you make perfect matches , sure you are always thinking of an improvement stage . that pto lever cone set up is loaded with improvements , once done , years in use , with no issues , stay at it , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,201 #236 Posted yesterday at 03:48 PM 1 hour ago, peter lena said: @cleat great pictures as usual ! noting the pto lever start area , found that teflon and metal washers and silicone grease really firm up and enhance INITIAL FUNCTION , also changing out the lever rod TRUNION for a HEIM joint , easy rethread right over original threading with a 3/8 FINE X 24 , die nut , makes it simple , also cleaned out original pto cone needle bearings , a very light coating of lucas xtra hd , green chassis grease 550 temp flash point , polyurea rated , the engagement / spin up is ridiculously smooth easy , quiet . BTW ever clamp your tubing bender into a bench vise ? worked with an instrintment tech , that did that , takes a while to get the hang of it , but lets you make perfect matches , sure you are always thinking of an improvement stage . that pto lever cone set up is loaded with improvements , once done , years in use , with no issues , stay at it , pete Great idea on the Heim joint, I will keep the trunion for now. Yes, I clamp my tube benders in a vise whenever I can, actually my larger 5/8 and 3/4" tube benders have a boss on them for clamping into a vise. I went to the Swagelok training facility in Ottawa and got trained on tube bending. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,201 #237 Posted 5 hours ago (edited) Governor control assembly and wire clip ready to be installed to blower housing. Governor control assembly ready to be installed to blower housing. Blower housing ready for governor control assembly to be installed. Cable bracket installed to blower housing with the bolt ran down finger tight. Flat washer and bushing sat on cable bracket. Governor control arm placed onto bushing then a flat washer was placed on top then the bolt was installed. Both bolts then tightened. Wire clip ready to be installed to blower housing. Note the different threads on this bolt. Blower housing ready for wire clip to be installed. Wire clip installed to blower housing. Governor control assembly and wire clip installed to blower housing. Edited 5 hours ago by cleat 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,201 #238 Posted 2 hours ago Blower housing ready to be installed onto engine block. Blower housing installed. All 4 bolts installed loose then tightened. Ignition coil ready to be installed. Ignition coil ready to be installed and black - wire from module installed and tightened. Red + wire from module and yellow ignition wire from engine harness installed onto + terminal on coil and nut threaded on loose as the condenser still needs to be installed. Yes, on an Onan the condenser goes on the + terminal. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,201 #239 Posted 4 minutes ago Fuel pump ready to install. Fuel pump screwed to blower housing and crankcase vacuum pulse hose hooked up. Voltage regulator ready to be installed. Voltage regulator installed into Right side cover. Right side cover ready to be installed. Right side cover installed. I also verified good electrical connection between regulator body and engine block. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites