Got another one. A 416 this time.

[lynnmor 8,301]

This may be one of four potential places for the heat shields to cut into the manifold, I grind the shields back a bit for clearance.

 

[cleat 8,197]

41 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

This may be one of four potential places for the heat shields to cut into the manifold, I grind the shields back a bit for clearance.

 

I will make sure there is clearance for all the heat shields during assembly. 

[Bill D 2,465]

When I clean a carb I like to remove the plug circled in blue and remove the main jet for cleaning.   On one of my carbs,  removing the main jet allowed me to flush some additional debris out of the passage the main jet screws into.  On an engine that already runs lean from the factory, this can be critical. 

[Bill D 2,465]

Deleted.  Duplicate post.

Edited Sunday at 05:46 PM by Bill D
Duplicate post deleted

[cleat 8,197]

1 hour ago, Bill D said:

When I clean a carb I like to remove the plug circled in blue and remove the main jet for cleaning.   On one of my carbs,  removing the main jet allowed me to flush some additional debris out of the passage the main jet screws into.  On an engine that already runs lean from the factory, this can be critical. 

There was real good flow out of the main jet when back flushing with carb cleaner so I think it will be fine.

I can remove this on the engine if necessary later on. 

 

 

[Bill D 2,465]

3 hours ago, cleat said:

Intake has been split, cleaned, tapped and bolted back together with a thin coat of sealer.

Intake was then pressure tested to 5 PSI and checked for leaks, none found.

I did that last summer and unfortunately I did not get pictures.

What sealer did you use?  I resealed a manifold 2 years ago using Motoseal 1 based on the recommendation of another Redsquare member.   Came out well.

Edited Sunday at 07:09 PM by Bill D

[cleat 8,197]

19 hours ago, Bill D said:

What sealer did you use?  I resealed a manifold 2 years ago using Motoseal 1 based on the recommendation of another Redsquare member.   Came out well.

 

I used Dow 732 sealant mainly because that is what I had on hand.

 

Edited yesterday at 02:35 PM by cleat

[cleat 8,197]

Intake assembly ready to be installed.

Bolt length is 2" for maximum thread engagement without bottoming out.

 

Intake manifold to block gaskets used.

 

Engine ready for intake installation.

Threaded holes chased with bottoming tap for maximum thread engagement to help prevent stripping.

 

Intake gaskets sat in place.

 

Intake assembly sat in place and loosely bolted to rear cylinder.

 

Dipstick tube bracket installed and front cylinder bolts installed.

Intake bolts torqued to 96 in/lb.

 

Dipstick tube screw installed and tightened.

 

Intake manifold assembly installed.

Wire harness is still able to be moved under the manifold so it is not pinched.

 

 

[cleat 8,197]

Flywheel ready to be installed.

 

Engine ready for flywheel to be installed.

 

Flywheel slid onto crankshaft.

Note that the crankshaft and center bore of flywheel are to be clean and dry with no lube of any sort.

 

Flywheel bolt ready to install with a very light coat of grease under the small washer and a light coat of never seize on bolt threads.

 

Flywheel bolt with the two washers installed and torqued to 50 ft/lb.

 

[peter lena 9,591]

@cleat great pictures as usual !   noting the pto lever start area  , found that  teflon and metal washers and  silicone grease  really firm up and enhance  INITIAL  FUNCTION , also changing out the  lever rod TRUNION for a HEIM joint , easy rethread right over  original  threading  with a  3/8 FINE X 24 , die nut , makes it simple , also cleaned out  original  pto cone needle bearings , a very light coating of  lucas  xtra hd , green chassis grease  550 temp flash point  , polyurea rated , the engagement / spin up  is  ridiculously  smooth easy , quiet . BTW  ever clamp your tubing bender  into a bench vise ? worked with an instrintment tech , that did that , takes a while to get the hang of it  , but lets you make perfect matches , sure you are always thinking  of  an improvement stage .  that pto lever cone set up is loaded with  improvements , once done , years in use , with no issues , stay at it , pete         

[cleat 8,197]

1 hour ago, peter lena said:

@cleat great pictures as usual !   noting the pto lever start area  , found that  teflon and metal washers and  silicone grease  really firm up and enhance  INITIAL  FUNCTION , also changing out the  lever rod TRUNION for a HEIM joint , easy rethread right over  original  threading  with a  3/8 FINE X 24 , die nut , makes it simple , also cleaned out  original  pto cone needle bearings , a very light coating of  lucas  xtra hd , green chassis grease  550 temp flash point  , polyurea rated , the engagement / spin up  is  ridiculously  smooth easy , quiet . BTW  ever clamp your tubing bender  into a bench vise ? worked with an instrintment tech , that did that , takes a while to get the hang of it  , but lets you make perfect matches , sure you are always thinking  of  an improvement stage .  that pto lever cone set up is loaded with  improvements , once done , years in use , with no issues , stay at it , pete         

 

Great idea on the Heim joint, I will keep the trunion for now.

 

Yes, I clamp my tube benders in a vise whenever I can, actually my larger 5/8 and 3/4" tube benders have a boss on them for clamping into a vise.

 

I went to the Swagelok training facility in Ottawa and got trained on tube bending.