cleat 8,078 #176 Posted December 10 Hydraulic hose grommet ready to be installed. Hydraulic hose grommet installed. Hydraulic supply line temporary plug removed, ready for valve installation. Hydraulic valve assembly ready to be installed. Hydraulic valve assembly installed. Hydraulic hoses ready to connect to cylinder. Hydraulic hoses connected to cylinder. Hydraulic return line ready to be installed. Hydraulic return line installed. Hydraulic lines and fittings tightened at valve. Hydraulic lines and fittings tightened at filter adapter. Hydraulic supply line tightened at pump. Overview as of today. 4 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,078 #177 Posted December 11 Hydro belt tension pivot rod assembly ready to be installed. Hydro belt tension pivot rod bushing installed. Hydro belt tension pivot rod wave and flat washers installed. Hydro belt tension pivot rod greased at pivot points. Hydro belt tension pivot rod spring installed. Hydro belt tension pivot rod slid into bushing and hoodstand. Spring slid onto anchor bolt and nut spun on finger tight. Hydro belt tension pivot rod washer and E clip installed. Hydro belt tension spring nyloc nut turned in until excess play is removed but spring is not clamped tight. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,078 #178 Posted December 12 Snow storm from last Wednesday knocked out our internet and that was still out this morning when the power went out. Power came back on after 4 hours. Luckily it was only -9 out so the house only cooled down to 15 degrees C. When the power came back on the satellite dish also had melted off so I now have power and internet. My post yesterday was through my phone that works so long as I am standing just outside the shop. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,078 #179 Posted December 12 (edited) Parking brake lever assembly ready to install. I am installing an early style as I do with all of my builds as I don't like the later style with the plastic knob on the left side. Parking brake bolt, washers, and spacer installed. Never seize on the SS bolt. Parking brake lever assembly installed and nut torqued to 30 ft/lb. Parking brake lever spring installed. Shift cover plate sat in place to verify parking brake lever location. I cut out the slot for the parking brake earlier this past summer. Adjusted brake spring according to manual. Edited Friday at 10:06 PM by cleat 7 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,078 #180 Posted Saturday at 02:54 PM Front fender bracket ready to install. Note the large washers that will hopefully prevent the Hoodstand from cracking again. Front fender bracket bolted into place just loose enough that it will move around. Fender sat on to verify bracket placement. Turns out front fender bracket needs to be moved forward as far as possible for the holes to all line up. I then removed the fender and checked to be sure the front fender bracket is square by measuring to the hoodstand as shown. Both sides were 7-7/8" so good there. I then measured side to side from hoodstand to outer edge of front fender bracket. Just over 2-3/4" both sides. Front fender bracket bolts torqued to 204 in/lb. Shown here are the large washers installed. They are different only because that is all I had on hand. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 75,775 #181 Posted Saturday at 02:58 PM Precision 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 15,209 #182 Posted Saturday at 03:08 PM 10 minutes ago, cleat said: This close tolerance would bug me until I’d emoved and shortened the bolt. And I am not nearly as meticulous as you are! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,078 #183 Posted Saturday at 03:49 PM 38 minutes ago, Handy Don said: This close tolerance would bug me until I’d emoved and shortened the bolt. And I am not nearly as meticulous as you are! Sorry, the camera angle made it look close. I can actually fit a finger between the bolt and the hydraulic line. 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,078 #184 Posted Saturday at 03:59 PM As recommended by Handy Don, I replaced the 5/16 x 1" bolt with a 5/16 x 3/4" bolt. It protrudes through the nyloc by a full thread so it is good to go. 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 15,209 #185 Posted Saturday at 04:43 PM 43 minutes ago, cleat said: As recommended by Handy Don, I replaced the 5/16 x 1" bolt with a 5/16 x 3/4" bolt. It protrudes through the nyloc by a full thread so it is good to go. And you “just happened” to have that shorter bolt on hand. I’m still in awe of your work! 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,078 #186 Posted Saturday at 06:45 PM 1 hour ago, Handy Don said: And you “just happened” to have that shorter bolt on hand. I’m still in awe of your work! One of the advantages of working at a large company (DuPont) and having my site shut down after cutting the maintenance department down to just me as the sole millwright is I got to take home truckloads of hardware. This is a bit of it. 1 4 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 8,259 #187 Posted Saturday at 08:14 PM I worked for Dupont for 11 years, then they sold off the electronics division. Some made off with a considerable amount of stuff as they were floundering, I got very little. Anyway, leaving that zoo and operating my own tool & die shop was the best move for me. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,078 #188 Posted Saturday at 08:34 PM 14 minutes ago, lynnmor said: I worked for Dupont for 11 years, then they sold off the electronics division. Some made off with a considerable amount of stuff as they were floundering, I got very little. Anyway, leaving that zoo and operating my own tool & die shop was the best move for me. I worked for DuPont for 30 years. Started off making freon R12 then the plant got re-tooled to make Suva 123 after R12 was banned. I was in the end the only mechanic left servicing the entire plant. Made lots of overtime but the 80 hour work weeks were hard. When they had to stop making Suva, the new replacement refrigerant plants were built in China I assume to get around environmental laws. I am retired now and it is the best job ever. 2 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 15,209 #189 Posted Saturday at 08:39 PM It is interesting what companies decide to “discard." In the 80’s. my manager decided to upgrade to a newer model of Apple Laserwriter after buying one for $000’s only 18 months earlier (she had a budget surplus she wanted to spend). I tried to shop the “retired” unit around to other departments but no one wanted it (most of the company was using Windows). She got an approved “discarded asset” form from her manager and instructed me to deal with it. I drove in the next day and after carefully putting it on the loading dock and taking a picture (35mm film in those days), I picked it up and put it in my car. It served us at home for at least five or six years. Similar story for several cases of letter and legal copy paper deemed “unusable” by the tech support team after a couple of jams in the copier. Our family didn’t buy paper for printing for over 25 years after that. 1 minute ago, cleat said: I am retired now and it is the best job ever. I call it the penultimate promotion. Glad you are enjoying it! 3 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,078 #190 Posted Monday at 03:12 PM PTO safety switch ready to bolt to bracket. I had to re-use the old 4-40 nyloc nuts because I had no new ones. PTO safety switch bolted to bracket. PTO safety switch assembly ready to be installed. PTO safety switch assembly installed. Bolt tightened but not torqued. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,078 #191 Posted Monday at 04:22 PM (edited) Lift bar and chain ready to assemble. Manual calls for a 5/16" bolt but lift arm is already drilled to accept a 3/8" bolt. I just had to tap a taper punch into chain where bolt passes through to open it up slightly to fit the 3/8" bolt. This will give a much more solid connection between bar and chain. Lift bar and chain assembled. Lift bar assembly ready to be installed. Lift bar greased at pivot points then bushing slid on. Lift bar installed by first inserting left side of bar (with the bushing) into hole in left side of frame then aligning right side of bar with hole in right side of frame. Push bar to the right as far as possible then while holding bar in this position, slide the bushing into the frame on the left side until it is filly seated. Install the E clip to hold everything in position. Lift bar is now installed. Lift chain installed into bellcrank then washer and nyloc nut installed. Nut screwed on a couple of turns but it's final adjustment is done after a deck is installed. Lift bar washer and clip installed. Edited Monday at 04:24 PM by cleat 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 2,442 #192 Posted Monday at 05:14 PM 1 hour ago, cleat said: PTO safety switch ready to bolt to bracket. I had to re-use the old 4-40 nyloc nuts because I had no new ones. PTO safety switch bolted to bracket. PTO safety switch assembly ready to be installed. PTO safety switch assembly installed. Bolt tightened but not torqued. Shouldn't there be two switches? One for the starter circuit and one for ignition? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,078 #193 Posted Monday at 06:14 PM 56 minutes ago, Bill D said: Shouldn't there be two switches? One for the starter circuit and one for ignition? There were two originally as per this wiring diagram. 416 wire harness.pdf However, I have simplified the wire harness and have eliminated the seat switch (that also tied into the second PTO switch) and also the neutral switch because the foot control auto returns to neutral. This is how it is to be wired now. 416 wire harness modified.pdf 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,078 #194 Posted Tuesday at 03:43 PM Upper steering shaft ready for pre-install. I will slide on an O ring to prevent washers and bushing from sliding down too far on initial setup. Upper steering shaft shim washers ready to be slid on. Upper steering shaft O ring, shim washers, and bushing slid on. Upper steering shaft installed into steering support block. Console ready to be installed. Console temporarily installed. Cotter pin just slid into hole with just enough shim washers to take up any free play. Console removed and stackup of shim washers above cotter cotter pin thickness measured to find a proper thickness washer. Upper steering shaft greased on all contact areas. Lower steering shaft fan gear greased. Lower steering shaft set perfectly level. Upper steering shaft installed with a 1/4" pin punch in steering wheel wheel roll pin hole and aligned so punch sits level while ensuring lower steering shaft stays level. This ensures proper gear mesh so steering wheel will be straight. Upper steering shaft cotter pin installed and one leg bent to hold it in position. Washers (of thickness determined earlier) and bushing slid on. Console placed back on ensuring bushing is properly seated and the Left side bolt screwed in finger tight. Right side front bolt installed finger tight. This will be how this bolt will stay for now as it has ground wires and a clip to go under it as well at a later date. PTO stop ready to be installed. This gets bolted in to the Right side rear of console. PTO stop installed. Rear console bolts both tightened. Console is now installed. Overview as of today. 8 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,559 #195 Posted Tuesday at 08:32 PM @cleat just have to say , lucky you ! with your interest / talent and the abundance of hi end units , your source / supply will keep you turning out better than original horses , any improvement / change only enhances your set ups . way to go , pete 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,078 #196 Posted yesterday at 02:42 PM Belt guard bracket and fuse holder bracket ready to bolt to front cover. Belt guard bracket and fuse holder bracket bolted to front cover. Bolts torqued to 96 in/lb. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,078 #197 Posted yesterday at 03:37 PM (edited) Front cover assembly ready to install. Tractor ready for front plate to be installed. PTO rod supported by box to help prevent paint scratching if it were to hang down. Front plate assembly installed and bolts tightened. You will notice the Left side (as from seating position) fuse holder bracket bolt has been reversed as the nut on the backside was contacting the hydraulic valve fitting. PTO return spring ready to be installed. PTO return spring hooked onto PTO control rod cotter pin. PTO return spring hooked onto belt guard bracket. I used the same spring hook tool for this that I used for the foot control spring in an earlier post. Overview as of today. PTO return spring is now holding the rod up. Edited yesterday at 03:41 PM by cleat 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,078 #198 Posted yesterday at 05:12 PM Well, my OCD kicked in and I switched the other bolt around so they would both be the same. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 2,442 #199 Posted yesterday at 06:34 PM Will those bolts contact the fuseblock if you leave them like that? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cleat 8,078 #200 Posted yesterday at 07:01 PM 25 minutes ago, Bill D said: Will those bolts contact the fuseblock if you leave them like that? Nope, not even close. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites