312-8 lift lever button and spring

[tallen4392 71]

Does anyone know how to replace the lift lever button and spring and are the parts available also what is the trick to remove the rubber grip on the lever  Thanks for any help

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,358]

Here is the parts involved

[daveoman1966 3,836]

Use an open wrench---or a crescent wrench---that just fits over the steel handle (tube). From beneath, drive the wrench UP and the rubber handle will come off...some of them are a bit stubborn but they will move up.  As for parts, from the schematic above, what parts do you need?  I probably have them.     

[tallen4392 71]

do you know how to get this apart it fells like the spring is inside but the pic shows it under the grip

[moe1965 752]

There should be a role pin in that shaft and that washer can be removed under that is where the spring goes 

[oliver2-44 10,519]

I replaces a rusted out retainer and spring on myC81 a few years ago   

 

I wedged the rod as high as I could get it and was just able to drill the roll pin out with a 1/8” carbide glass bit. 

Edited June 3, 2024 by oliver2-44

[peter lena 9,175]

@tallen4392 agree with others on the  insight / repair , @gwest_ca  schematic  says it all , regularly suggest an aerosol spray tube, penetrating lubricant for an initial creeper lube , also gets the rust moving , use that first , get TOTAL FUNCTION , moving , then follow up with a red grease , aerosol , would rather have a lubrication spread than solid rust any day . that can / should work easily , pete

[tallen4392 71]

Thanks for the pics so guess I unhook the rod at the bottom of the lever and try to push it up is there a roll pin in that retainer that u drilled out I am guessing  or is it easier to try and find a new lift lever and replace it I can only move the button with a pair of pliers and it won't lock up confusing setup ....

[tallen4392 71]

the lube  and penetrating oil spray did not work it is really jammed up in there

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,358]

Make sure knob 40 is backed off as far as it will go. It limits the lift handle as far as it will go and can restrict the lock from engaging.

Item 5 pin is shown below the lift handle but is at the top of the lock rod.

[tallen4392 71]

It does not matter if the lever is forward or pulled back the button will barley move  my other charger 12 the button works like magic very easy to push  not this 312 

[tallen4392 71]

does anyone have a complete lift rod assembly for this machine in good working condition ???

[daveoman1966 3,836]

The whole lift assy---YES, I have it.  

[tallen4392 71]

is that a big project to change do you know ??

[daveoman1966 3,836]

14 hours ago, tallen4392 said:

is that a big project to change do you know ??

Using your schematic, the keeper #17 will allow the horizontal shaft of part #46 to slide thru the lift arm #19, then out of the hoodstand. Of course, first pull the two hairpins #14 for that to happen.  Slide #46 about 2", then remove the KEY # 18 so that #46 will slide completely out of the hoodstand.  I think you'll need to remove the cast iron part #41 also--not sure. 

  

[tallen4392 71]

Does anyone have what i am looking for i need it asap shipping to zip 01077

[daveoman1966 3,836]

YES---  I have all the parts you asked for.  You don't need to take the whole assembly out of the tractor.  Just take off the left side footrest so the ROD can be pushed out and replaced.  First though, knock out the little ROLL PIN shown here. With the footrest off, you can push the ROD down and out of the tube.   I can send just the parts # 2, 3, 4, and 5 for $35  shipped.   OR....if you want the hollow tube #1 with  #46...  $57 shipped.  Here are the part s: 

[daveoman1966 3,836]

On 6/4/2024 at 8:18 AM, tallen4392 said:

does anyone have a complete lift rod assembly for this machine in good working condition ???

I answered earlier....YES, I ahve the stuff you want.  See photos above. 

[tallen4392 71]

thank you we tryed to get it apart i must be doing something wrong we removed the floorboard and side cover could not get it apart the rod has to come out of the slot on the bottom could not get it out i am assuming u have to push it up to remove the pin u show correct ?  i will go back to my sons and try again i appreciate your time i will let u know what parts i need if i get it apart

[daveoman1966 3,836]

That's RIGHT---the little ROLL PIN has to come out FIRST.  Easiest thing to do is CUT IT OFF...flush with the rod on both sides.  Then the SPRING will lift off and the spring CUP.  Now you can push the rod down thru the hollow tube.  When you get the ROD out, drive out the little roll pin (remains) and put a new in when you get the ROD, SPRING, and CUP reinstalled.  

 

Edited June 12, 2024 by daveoman1966

[oliver2-44 10,519]

I used a Dremel with a small cutoff wheel to cut the pin flush on each side.  

[tallen4392 71]

why does the diagram show the spring on top when it is below the cup correct??

[tallen4392 71]

sorry for all the questions but what holds the push button on in the pic i sent the button does not come out it is stuck there i grabbed it with plyer but does not move

[daveoman1966 3,836]

The SPRING fits inside the CUP.  The cup fits inside the hollow TUBE.    

[oliver2-44 10,519]

11 hours ago, tallen4392 said:

sorry for all the questions but what holds the push button on in the pic i sent the button does not come out it is stuck there i grabbed it with plyer but does not move

The push button is the top of the long rod #2.  It has to come out the bottom.after you cut the little roll pin off. But I seem to recall on my C81 #18 would have to slide out a little bit for rod #2 to come out the bottom. My son has a 312 and I can look at it Saturday as I do think the handle part of 45 is a little different 

 

it is usually very hard to remove the complete assembly. #19 and key #18 are usually brown rust welded together. I’ve had to heat #19 with a torch red hot to break it loose to pull it completely apart. But if needed you may be able to pull pins 14 to have room to slide it out a little.  
 

My C81 had sat in the open for several years when I got it and the rod was stuck. After several days soaking with penetrant I was able to tap-hammer #2 rod down a little and wedge it up a little from the bottom.  I just kept working it. I cut the little roll pin off with a dremel.  Then removed the broken spring. Then I just kept working it up and down until it was free.  The bottom of my cup #3 was partly rusted out and I think my spring was broken and rusted to the rod. The cup was also rusted in place. I used a cheap wood hole saw that barely fit inside the cup. I ran the hole saw up and down at a slight angle to slightly bite into the cup to put pressure on the inside of the cup to get it to spin loose.  After the spring and cup were out  I then partially drilled then drove the little roll pin out of the rod. The new cup taps in then the spring drops in. Then drive new roll pin in. 

However if your cup is ok, just reuse it. I suspect the only new parts you need are the spring and roll pin. 
If you would like you can pm your phone number to Dave or myself and we can talk through this.