JoeB 15 #1 Posted May 14 I have a 312H that runs fine now that I fixed the starter. The story was that it wouldn’t engage the flywheel. You guys had lots of good suggestions, thanks. I finally figured out what was going on. First the starter was gunked up if I can use a technical term. So I opened up the shroud and spayed cleaner in past the mechanism using a thing tube like you find with most engine cleaners. Then I let it sit for a while. I also bought a starter booster battery just in case the battery was weak. That seemed cheaper than buying a new battery, and I was also to use it on one of my cars as well. For some reason, when the tractor hasn’t been used for a while, it cranks a long time before it fires up. So unless it turns over, the battery weakens and the even when ungunked, the starter won’t engage. The starter booster solved that problem. But I do have another mystery. If I drain the oil, it is black as you might expect, but if I pull the dip stick to check the oil, what is on the dips stick looks like new clean oil. I would expect the oil on the dip stick to be black also. Am I wrong? If I am right, any suggestions on why the oil on the stick appears clean. I have another mystery, but it is electrical so I’ll put it in the electrical section, but to save you the trouble of looking, when I turn the ignition key, often nothing happens but if while the key is turned, I turn on the lights and then turn them off, the starter engages. Beats me, lbut it works every time. Any comments are welcome. Thanks in advance. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 8,952 #2 Posted May 14 I suspect your suspect you starter could still use a disassembly, clean and (lube bushing only) 5 hours ago, JoeB said: . For some reason, when the tractor hasn’t been used for a while, it cranks a long time before it fires up. So unless it turns over, the battery weakens and the even when ungunked, the starter won’t engage. The starter booster solved that problem. But I do have another mystery. If I drain the oil, it is black as you might expect, but if I pull the dip stick to check the oil, what is on the dips stick looks like new clean oil. I would expect the oil on the dip stick to be black also. Am I wrong? If I am right, any suggestions on why the oil on the stick appears clean. The long cranking is most likely due to the fuel draining out of the hose and cranking to refill it. A primer bulb will end the long cranking When you check your oil after the tractor has set a long while the contaminants can settle out (down into the bottom of the pan) and the upper oil look cleaner. On your oil mystery, check the oil after it has run a while, i suspect it will be black om the dipstck. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 6,879 #3 Posted May 14 When changing oil, do it with the oil hot and have your tools ready so it can be drained immediately after the engine is turned off. You need to get the sludge out of the engine by doing it this way. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 36,222 #4 Posted May 14 The clean looking oil that you see on the upper dip stick is probably condensation forming on the fill tube. I clean mine with a gun cleaning rod and patch. The long crank time after sitting for a long time is common with the tractors where the fuel tank is under the seat. Over time the fuel drains back thru the fuel pump causing the pump to lose its prime. Some easy solutions are to install a marine primer bulb or a shut off valve between the tank and fuel pump. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JoeM 7,783 #5 Posted May 14 Might want to wipe that dipstick on a white paper towel and look close at the results. A thin layer of oil always looks cleaner than a pan of oil. Like the others have said, drain it hot and with the solids in suspension to clean the case out the best. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 7,523 #6 Posted May 14 I go so far as to "flush" the pan after the oil has mostly drained. I add a few ounces of fresh oil to chase any deposits it can out the open drain. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,323 #7 Posted May 15 To fix hving to crank a long time to get the gas up. I put a check valve in the line right before it gets to the engine. It starts right up now. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 8,165 #8 Posted May 15 @ LEE 1977 . been using those check valves for years , typically just behind the air filter back plate area , add a very light tempering spring to the outer carb plate to assist gentle closing , lube as you go , repetitive problems are a road map , for eliminating them . pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
