Fordiesel69 235 #26 Posted April 30 Crank looks good, rod not so much. What would happen it I got a new rod and just let it be noisey? Would the slop break the new rod? Also there was never grenade gears in this one, the shaft holes are plugged on the inside. The piston and rings are new. Not one spec of carbon so the owner did a quick fix (probably an oil burning monster) Didnt even bother to hone the cylinder. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,146 #27 Posted April 30 10 minutes ago, Fordiesel69 said: Crank looks good, rod not so much. What would happen it I got a new rod and just let it be noisey? Would the slop break the new rod? Also there was never grenade gears in this one, the shaft holes are plugged on the inside. The piston and rings are new. Not one spec of carbon so the owner did a quick fix (probably an oil burning monster) Didnt even bother to hone the cylinder. Eventually it can fail if the crank is out of round. My K181 was addicted to oil, i put in a new rod, piston, rings..no hone out...runs like new, this is the old rod i pulled out of it, it, I know i had about 100hrs on it, and it came off a completely worn out tractor when i transplanted it 20+ years ago Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordiesel69 235 #28 Posted April 30 So a quote from brian millers webpage: K-series and Magnum "new style" rod. This particular forged rod has a thicker beam section, which makes it just as durable as a machined billet rod, and with bearing inserts installed, it's suitable for high RPM and wide open throttle engine operation. And when used with a factory type piston with a thin-wall wrist pin, the rotating assembly will not need to be rebalanced. OEM Kohler part # 45 067 24-S and John Deere part # AM106441. $124.50 each, plus shipping & handling. Return To Previous Paragraph È I think i have no choice but to just buy a new heavy duty rod, and let it knock a bit. Ebay is dry on cranks it seems. Nobody local to machine or I would consider it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,617 #29 Posted April 30 Did you check with @76c12091520h Brian Badman or Lincoln at A to Z? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tuneup 1,416 #30 Posted April 30 OK, read through this on my vacation day today and it appears you're assuming the crank pin is out of round because of a tight spot in rotation but it's not been measured? Even a cheap caliper will help you out there so you're sure. About $20 at your friendly neighborhood Harbor Freight. If the crank pin is indeed out of round, there should be some shop out there that takes delivery. I had to drive 90 minutes just to get my 301 bored but they are out there and are more likely to do the work if you hand them the stripped part. Good luck! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordiesel69 235 #31 Posted April 30 (edited) I will be measuring. I have a caliper that is digital. I have worked on enough kohlers there is a egg spot around TDC or slightly after just by feel. Edited April 30 by Fordiesel69 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordiesel69 235 #32 Posted May 1 1.494 on side away from TDC. 1.488 on side that is TDC. I'm at my limit on photos so sorry. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,146 #33 Posted May 1 (edited) 17 minutes ago, Fordiesel69 said: 1.494 on side away from TDC. 1.488 on side that is TDC. I'm at my limit on photos so sorry. Heres the tolerances, 1.494 is only 1thou under minimum, not ideal..but 1 488 is already beyond 10 under. I personally wouldnt go 20 under, you never know how deep the surface hsrdening was back then. Edited May 1 by RED-Z06 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordiesel69 235 #34 Posted May 2 I have (2) c-160's with really nice 16HP K341 one is a 13 fin and the other is a 12 fin. I think im going to buy a new rod, and button this bad boy back up and let it be a knocker to replace 312-8 at camp. I think with the low hours it will see, it should be ok. I am coming up dry on all searches for a crank and as I see it, if it get more egg shaped, or more worn, no harm it needs replaced anyways. The only think I can hope for is that if I get a new rod, it will take the pounding. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wild Bill 633 773 #35 Posted May 6 (edited) Some engine shops can have the crank built up with weld and reground to size. Edited May 6 by Wild Bill 633 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordiesel69 235 #36 Posted May 9 Cant wait for the parts to come in. Got a used crank that is just in spec, a genuine kohler rod, and a new old stock .003 piston that will put the top end one thousands inside the spec limit. Due to lack of machine shops in my area and the fact the cylinder was not oval or egg shaped, I decided not to goto .010 over. Will save it for the next rebuild cycle. I figure with these new parts and proper maint I will probably never wear it out to ever need another rebuild. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,617 #37 Posted May 9 2 hours ago, Fordiesel69 said: Cant wait for the parts to come in. Got a used crank that is just in spec, a genuine kohler rod, and a new old stock .003 piston that will put the top end one thousands inside the spec limit. Due to lack of machine shops in my area and the fact the cylinder was not oval or egg shaped, I decided not to goto .010 over. Will save it for the next rebuild cycle. I figure with these new parts and proper maint I will probably never wear it out to ever need another rebuild. Given the scenario that you have and non availability of machining, sounds like that may be a best case scenario for you. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordiesel69 235 #38 Posted Sunday at 08:12 PM (edited) Well, all I can say is it is way better than before but not 100 percent. Found a nos Kohler rod and an. 003 over piston with standard rings. End gaps checked out with plenty of room and piston slap is one thousandth inside the spec limit. The nice used crank I acquired is. 003 and. 004 using plastiguage. The. 004 is right at or slightly after TDC so yes it does have a tiny knock unloaded. If you run the mower deck and apply a load the knock goes away. It will probably last a very long time this way but I wished it was a touch quieter for all the work I had to do trasplanting the new used crankshaft. Flywheel was an insane pita to remove even with a puller. The way the engine was with its std piston and scored up rod, and crankpin worn ten thou shortly after TDC I felt it would have blown up at some point. Now I think it will at least last a while at least. The original crank needed a real expert, it would need to be turned to 12 thou under once the egg spot was found, and then a. 010 rod would need to be resized slightly and frankly I don't think many machinests are good enough to do that, they'd want to just take it the full twenty under and all the hardness would be gone. The k341 16hp is sure an awsome beast to own, but I think the durability on these k series goes away after thr k301 12hp. I think Kohler should have made the bottom ends a touch bigger for the 14, 16, and rare OHV 18hp. I also feel that the k341 and k361 with it's cylinder bore being offset from center of the crankshaft promotes more one sided piston skirt wear. Edited Sunday at 08:17 PM by Fordiesel69 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
