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Mike'sHorseBarn

Wheel Horse's Worst Design

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ebinmaine

That hitch pin isn't really a design flaw so much as a previous owner's lack of maintenance. They should have been oiled when installed or swapped. 

 

Some suggestions.  

 

1. Ditch the PB. It's been proven many times to be less than effective.  My experiences show me good Ole fashioned Liquid Wrench is a better bet. Other folks like paraffin or ATF and acetone mix. 

 

2. More heat. 

 

3. Remember that it took 50 years to rust and will take time to come undone. 

 

4. Do you have access to a press or better yet,  a large ball joint remover? Some auto parts stores rent them. 

 

Really though..... it's just a pin. Replacements are readily available. 

Yes it's nice to save the old ones when possible but sometimes drilling is the better way. 

 

 

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WHX??
Posted (edited)

Those air hammers have helped me once or twice. Yes cut the slot hitch and take the hitch to the press if needed. Gets the draw bar out of the way too.

Edited by WHX??
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Mike'sHorseBarn
11 minutes ago, Achto said:

I threw together this puller to remove that last stubborn pin that I had. Fist I used a Sawzall to cut the pin on each side up the tranny. Then I drilled & tapped the pin that was stuck in the tranny. After that I used this puller to remove the pin. Tighten the bolt on the puller, use a drift to pound on the opposite end of the pin. Repeat, repeat, add more extensions, repeat....

 

 

I really like the puller idea.

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mrc

i use my ball joint press.  snap-on BJP-1

 

 

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Ed Kennell
Posted (edited)

I've removed a couple by sawing off the pin like Dan did, but then I bottom drilled a 7/16 hole in the pin from the right side stopping about 1/4" before drilling thru.

Then used a 3/8" drift in the hole and a BFH to drive the pin out.   The idea is, you are pulling instead of pushing and mushrooming the end the pin.

I can see this combined with Dans puller would really work well.    Using the drift in a hole does not mushroom the pin like pounding on the end of the pin.

Edited by Ed Kennell
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Handy Don
1 hour ago, Achto said:

IMG_20220212_094710633.jpg.e462d5e32af0d44488765df3ca414fd7.jpg

This is an inspiring example of thinking outside the box, but shouldn't the washers be between the nuts and the pipe coupler?

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Ed Kennell

Worst Design?   Did you ever have to remove a fuel tank from a 953?     :angry-screaming:

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Mike'sHorseBarn
19 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

Worst Design?   Did you ever have to remove a fuel tank from a 953?     :angry-screaming:

 

Never although I've had a 953 and can just imagine lol

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squonk
Posted (edited)

Heat / quench. Watch one of Taryl fixes all videos..

 

 

Edited by squonk
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Pullstart

Nobody had mentioned twisting.  As soon as you can get a pipe wrench on the pin, start twisting it with heat and oil/wax and it’ll bust loose much quicker!

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953 nut
9 hours ago, WHX?? said:

Those air hammers have helped me once or twice. Yes cut the slot hitch and take the hitch to the press if needed. Gets the draw bar out of the way too.

:text-yeahthat:       If the pin won't come out easily I don't even fight with it.      Three cuts and move on to the press.   Cut both ends off flush with the transaxle to remove the slot hitch/draw bar, cut at the center of the transaxle castings and after the transaxle has been pulled apart take both halves to the press and push the remainder of the pin out of each half.

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JoeM

I am thinking the early pins were plain steel and the newer ones plated?

 

I have had a couple tough ones, one i cut and one not.  I used a BFH and heat on both. 

I remember having the tire off and using wooden block to support a steel round putting in a good position to swing the hammer. 

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peter lena

@ MIKE,S HORSEBARN ,  standing that on axel end , totally solidly in place , same size solid round stock  /  hex head bolt / cut off threading , 3/ lb  hammer , first solid impact , should tell you what's going on , also like@  ri702bill , s idea , personally  never let anything go dry / stuck , always give things a drink ,  been experiment with  3-1  penetrating  oil , cabling , linkage ends , every thing moves . pete  

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Achto
11 hours ago, Handy Don said:

This is an inspiring example of thinking outside the box, but shouldn't the washers be between the nuts and the pipe coupler?

 

That was the point where I ran out of room inside the pipe coupler. Those are 3/4" washers over the pin.

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Ed Kennell

Just remembered one other thing I do as soon as I get a "new" tractor.    I drill a hole down to the pin in the top of each tranny hitch lug.  Then fill it with PB and let it sit for a couple years.

After I get the pin out, I tap these holes for a grease zerk.    

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Lane Ranger
11 hours ago, daveoman1966 said:

Hitch pin removal (hasn't failed me yet): Take the right wheel off and set that side trans on a jack stand...leave the left wheel on. (1) the hitch pin is soft---cut off flush with Sawzall (2) Center punch and drill 1/8" pilot hole in RIGHT side at least 1 inch deep. (3) Open this 1/8 to 1/4 then to 1/2 or more...drilling deeper each time. (4) Using a pneumatic impact hammer with round punch in that hole you drilled to drive it thru.  (5) Reinstall pin using a 3/4" with a big "D" ring like this from TSC....less than $10 bux.  Coat it with anti-seize.  

   

pin 001.JPG


 

yes I have been using these TSC hitch pins for years as the replacement pins!  I like it so much I might even have to buy a transmission to remove a stubborn original!

 

 

IMG_6897.jpeg

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Rick3478

For worst design, I'd submit the six-sided drive belt on some of the 37" two blade mower decks.  Rolls easy and tears up fast once it's rolled.

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Tractorhead
Posted (edited)
23 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

Just remembered one other thing I do as soon as I get a "new" tractor.    I drill a hole down to the pin in the top of each tranny hitch lug.  Then fill it with PB and let it sit for a couple years.

After I get the pin out, I tap these holes for a grease zerk.    

 

The same i did when i got it new to me.

pulled all Axles they be ungreased by Original and refit it with grease zerks.

 

Even on spindles of Steering or Mowerdeck pulles and also on the Top of the Tranny hitch.

C03DB40E-12C1-4C07-A28C-A371FF701E04.jpeg.1f9b0c736e037af968972f488a962c75.jpeg

 

A559B468-756C-4E2D-AC82-34ABD3898015.jpeg.d7c0d0183fdc8967821ed5fcc771de0a.jpeg

 

2CFD11A5-7573-448D-88F7-143BAEF101E2.jpeg.55f9f8f4f9cc07fb27c8a682156fe0ec.jpeg

On this pict it can be seen on the left side under the gunk.

but it‘s still there and must be just wiped off with a towell before each

you just can see the grease that flotes outside a little when moving.

 

 

88EC6DB1-B89F-4EC7-B38F-DCD45E7BED1E.jpeg.18b27bb39f746f39eccffa6b4bca6d43.jpeg

 

i have no better picts for now but can it update soon if needed.

that saves me a lot of troubles on bolt removing or wear.

👍

 

To pull it out i use a induction heater and lot of Ballistol Gunoil.

@Pullstart ‚s tip to twist it carefully with a big pipewrench 2“ was the go for it.

 

Moving, gently hammering while moving, heat and Ballistol does the trick to loosen it up.

Edited by Tractorhead
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