314 attachment lift lever

[John c 70]

what can be done to make the lever engagement more secure in the up position ? the slightest jolt or bump and it will pop out and the deck drops down 

[pfrederi 17,168]

Look for wear on the parts circled and make sure you spring is intact and that the rod moves freely

 

 

[squonk 38,987]

I've seen where the eyebolt (#22) gets bent. The deck in the raised position pushes on the floor boards. Too tight an adjustment of the eye bolt  or it being bent can cause the lock for the lift arm to not fully a engage.

Edited February 4 by squonk

[wallfish 15,946]

The rod (#2) needs to fully engage. Broken or weak spring, rust not allowing the rod to move it's full distance can cause an issue. If the adjustment on the deck is too tight it won't allow the handle to move all the way. Constant slipping out will wear the edge of the rod so it doesn't bite as hard into the retaining slot.

You will need to inspect everything for the cause

[Lee1977 6,245]

It's normal for those to drop at a bump if nothing is attached. My guess is a weak spring No. 4.

[Ed Kennell 35,904]

Spray a good amount of penetrant in the top of the lift lever and work the button till your thumb gets numb.

[peter lena 8,090]

 @Johnc agree with  @pfrederi ,  s  parts layout  , often use the phrase , "  make the rust run out  " on any related . linkage , lever set up ,  like the RED AEROSOL  spray grease as a follow up , use extension tube for hidden areas , that entire cross frame , set up is usually a rusty stain . my lift lever push point , is free and smooth  with movement , this same , scenario for smooth easy function also applies to the dozer / plow frame set up . just my own experience , if its rusty , go oily / greasy , works like it should , Pete                                                                                 

[John c 70]

thanks for the pointers guys, I'll try and get into it this weekend and see what's going on 

[John c 70]

well everything looked OK, I think it was adjusted up too high, to the point it was bound under tension from the weight of the deck, so much so the L shaped piece was not able to engage completely.  I backed off the nut #56 on eye hook #22 that relieved the tension. 

 

I found the easiest way to access nut #56, is to remove the shifter cover plate, with the handle lowered go in at angle under the meters with a socket and uni-joint. 

 

Lots of spray lube in front of compressed air was able to clean the contact/pivot points at items 15&16 on both sides, I jammed rags between there and the top of the deck to catch the wash out before it got to the deck belt.  

 

Thanks again for the pointers  

[peter lena 8,090]

@John c  shifter cover plate and related dash area , lets you see how things are saposed to work , washer firming up the TRUNNION , piece , stops the flopping around and also takes the strain off the safety pin clip , also grease that . that entire dash area  is a gold mine for improvement , pete

[peter lena 8,090]

@Johnc   lots to do in that area , just some ideas , Pete