Kohler KT17 Block Repair - Input Wanted

[OutdoorEnvy 1,442]

Hey folks, my friend was working on his 417A.  The oil sensor was leaking and when he took it out it had a brass thread sleeve that partially broke off in the block.  He was trying to get it out with an extractor tool and part of the block broke off.  It's in 2 pieces but fits back together well and it seems like we should be able to weld it back on.  I want to make sure I'm on the right track so any advice would be appreciated to get this repair right.

 

 

[JoeM 7,674]

Deep enough to trim up and re=tap what is there?

 

Could weld it, if so, I would be inclined to weld it solid and drill and tap tho. what is there is booger-ed up. 

[OutdoorEnvy 1,442]

4 minutes ago, JoeM said:

Deep enough to trim up and re=tap what is there?

 

Could weld it, if so, I would be inclined to weld it solid and drill and tap tho. what is there is booger-ed up. 

 

It might be able to be trimmed.  I haven't seen it myself in person, just have the pics.  Yeah looks like we'll have to re-tap for sure on it either way.

[Achto 26,606]

25 minutes ago, OutdoorEnvy said:

Yeah looks like we'll have to re-tap for sure on it either way.

 

 If you are going to re-tap the hole, pack your tap with grease. The metal chips will stick to the grease instead falling into the block.

[WHX?? 46,841]

I'll go out on a limb here but JB weld & re-tap? 

[Lost Pup 172]

From the pic I can not tell how deep the hole is.

Could a tap be run down deeper and then a longer insert sleeve extension of some type threaded in safely deeper. Then attach the sender to the top of the adapter.

i would try the jbweld packed around the sleeve to support it. A short piece of brass pipe with coupling to connect to the sender at top. Vibration could be an issue but maybe not. Just oil tight and leak free, and durable is the goal.

 

Edited January 30 by Lost Pup

[RED-Z06 2,128]

That hole leads into some pretty important stuff...whatever is done, nothing metal wise needs to go down that hole.

[953 nut 51,881]

On 1/30/2024 at 9:16 AM, OutdoorEnvy said:

It's in 2 pieces but fits back together well and it seems like we should be able to weld it back on

Can cast aluminum be welded without problems?       

On 1/31/2024 at 1:46 AM, RED-Z06 said:

That hole leads into some pretty important stuff...whatever is done, nothing metal wise needs to go down that hole.

The oil pressure switch is on the pressure lubrication line going to cam and crank. I wouldn't even consider running a tap down that hole unless the engine was taken apart.

[WHX?? 46,841]

1 hour ago, 953 nut said:

I wouldn't even consider running a tap down that hole unless the engine was taken apart.

My thoughts too even with Dan's greasy tap trick. 

Pressurize so air blows out possible? 

[Sailman 1,134]

On 1/30/2024 at 9:16 AM, OutdoorEnvy said:

It's in 2 pieces but fits back together well and it seems like we should be able to weld it back on.

 

Since there is a huge risk in drilling and tapping without taking the motor apart I would think smearing some JB weld on the contact points and fitting the piece back onto the engine would be next best option. Try to apply pressure to the part with a stick and solid object to hold it in place till the JB weld sets. If it were me I would also clean the area good and smear around the whole area with JB weld after the initial section cures. May be a bit of "junk yard fix" but I have had good luck with that process on areas without a lot of pressure or load. Had a yanmar diesel engine leaking water from a crack in the block and sealed it in a similar fashion. That was years ago and still holding strong. If you plan to tear down the engine then it should be done right as suggested above. Others here may disagree with my suggestion so take it with a grain of salt.

[OutdoorEnvy 1,442]

We decided to separate the block from the oil pan and will weld and tap it.  Will work on it tomorrow some.  From research looks like thread size should be 1/8” NPTF.  Can anyone verify that?

Anyone know a good place for the sensor, or should we plug it?

[pfrederi 17,164]

Hello KT-17s do not have an oil pan and that port leads into the oil distribution system

 

 

Edited February 2 by pfrederi

[RED-Z06 2,128]

The joy of the Kohler twin...pull cylinders, split block in half.

 

I guess you could just replace that block half with another one

Edited February 2 by RED-Z06

[pfrederi 17,164]

I have several KT17s and one Mag 18.  I did an overhaul on the Magnum 18. I like the KT17s but after that M18 I will not be rebuilding them...especially if it was a Series 1

 

I think I would put a cork in it and seal it up with JB weld.  Not all spec KT17s had oil pressure gauges/lights..

Edited February 2 by pfrederi

[OutdoorEnvy 1,442]

Didn’t know it split down like that.  I’m a single cylinder guy…we will probably plug it.  Would welding it back together with a bolt welded in as the plug be better then JB weld?

[pfrederi 17,164]

9 hours ago, OutdoorEnvy said:

Didn’t know it split down like that.  I’m a single cylinder guy…we will probably plug it.  Would welding it back together with a bolt welded in as the plug be better then JB weld?

 

 

I am not a welder but welding aluminum is different and welding separate metals may be more-so.  Hope a welding expert wool comment here.

[OutdoorEnvy 1,442]

Would regular JB weld work or would it need to be the aluminium kind?  I haven’t used JB weld for an engine repair before and haven’t messed with aluminium for welding and don’t think I’ll start here

[Lee1977 6,245]

I tried regulatr JB weld on a Vanguard and I t didn't work, but that was welding a corner engine mount back on.  Then had it alunime welded, but there were cracks that didnit get welded  or the BJ weld caused the alumine not to weld. It always leaked after the alumine weld and eventily dumped the oil when it was hot.

My suggestion is take it apart and have it welded by some ne who is good at alumine welding.