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jtrosp1980

Raider 12 transmission

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jtrosp1980

1805598426_Screenshot_20230607-2008422.png.ace9c6ed7d9bc897abfac64559ce5cff.pngI bought a raider 12 ran this summer was fine then when it got cold it frozen I got it in the garage put heat to it got it  unfrozen drained old oil out got very little oil out got lots of water out put kerosene in it pushed it around yard to get cleaned out going to drain it and put new gear oil in would you still open transmission before putting in new oil or just change the shifter boots out

It has 6 speed transmission not hyrod

Edited by jtrosp1980
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JoeM

just a little piece of what I know about water in 8 speeds

If the oil is just discolored a DFR and reboot might be the ticket

If there is a lot of water, chances are there is rust in the case. The manuals are not painted inside like the hydro trans, and the if they set wet, they will rust.

If possible, need to see if you can see into the case with a pin light or cam to check closer for rust accumulation. 

It doesn't take much rust in the oil to ruin bearings. 

 

It is not to bad of a job, maybe three afternoons, to remove open and clean up the mess. Get a gasket, new seals and boot. might want to check around for some replacement parts might find some chewed up ones.

stevasurus has some good trans instructional vids on RS if you need know how it is done.

 

8 speed case with rust inside the top of the case was rusted because the water ran into the shifter and across the top of the case.

2058501855_TransGearingApart3.jpg.8f5050bbab8bd3990bbbcbe6efb6205f.jpg

 

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If you do get into the case make sure you take a very close look at the bearings for defects.

image.png.6b49b03fe603f4f89e2d1f5e9e894bf0.png

 

After clean up with diesel and some elbow grease. 

image.png.8f51d12c00819b9347c99053fae8da57.png

Edited by JoeM
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Maxwell-8
2 hours ago, JoeM said:

8 speed case with rust inside the top of the case was rusted because the water ran into the shifter and across the top of the case.

Often times condensation over the years will cause the top half to rust as well. When you don't drive your horse for long periods, the oil will drain down. Leaving the top half exposed for rust formation by the condensation.

DSC_0272.JPG.f45c9eb69a61ebe6d7f020565c36dddf.JPG

 

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953 nut
9 hours ago, jtrosp1980 said:

put new gear oil in would you still open transmission before putting in new oil or just change the shifter boots out

When you flushed the transaxle how did the kerosene look? If it had rust in it you should go inside and take a look. Did the axle seals leak? Have you jacked it up and checked the axles for up-down or front-back movement?  Was the transaxle quiet before the water was drained? Lot of things to consider. 

It depends on your plans for the :wh: and time available. If you won't be needing it to work for you in the next few weeks then a quick teardown and clean=up would be advisable. If you don't have the time and space to do the job in the winter and won't be working it hard until warmer weather it probably will be fine with fresh gear oil.

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oliver2-44
2 hours ago, 953 nut said:

When you flushed the transaxle how did the kerosene look? If it had rust in it you should go inside and take a look. Did the axle seals leak? Have you jacked it up and checked the axles for up-down or front-back movement?  Was the transaxle quiet before the water was drained? Lot of things to consider. 

It depends on your plans for the :wh: and time available. If you won't be needing it to work for you in the next few weeks then a quick teardown and clean=up would be advisable. If you don't have the time and space to do the job in the winter and won't be working it hard until warmer weather it probably will be fine with fresh gear oil.

:text-yeahthat:

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Ed Kennell

    Do all the external checks  that Richard and Joe detail  before opening the case.     If the bearings look, sound , and feel good and the seals are not leaking, I would fill it with kerosene or diesel  and drive it slowly in tight circles in all gears to get all the gears  clean.    You may have to do this several times until the drained fluid is clean.

Please remember to raise the front of the tractor as high as possible to drain all the fluid that gets trapped in front of the tranny hump.

 

If you see, hear or feel any bearing problems , tear it down and replace all bearings and seals.

 

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JoeM
1 hour ago, Ed Kennell said:

You may have to do this several times until the drained fluid is clean.

and if you can get a magnetic plug installed even better. I got these from McMaster

image.png.b77aff4758178fb01c611212e2fd34b8.png

 

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JoeM
4 hours ago, Maxwell-8 said:

DSC_0272.JPG.f45c9eb69a61ebe6d7f020565c36dddf.JPG

Looks like some spare parts laying in the oil? 

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Maxwell-8
2 minutes ago, JoeM said:

Looks like some spare parts laying in the oil? 

From my experience, the outer axle bearings tend to go out first. they see some heavy loads and when there is little oil in the case, they can run low on oil. 

Often taking out the inner axle bearings whit those needle rollers.

 

2 years ago, I rebuild 3 transmissions with this issue. 

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jtrosp1980

Yes I have the space and time I checked the seals and no play had magnetic plug no shavings the kerosene was very rusty no play on the axle im leaning on opening it I have never done one I do have a spare transmission if need be I'm trying a restore my self there is no sentimental to this one I'm paying someone else to restore my dad's old raider 10 so I don't mess it up my raider 12 I payed few hundred bucks for it I drive a truck so I work on it when I get home where is a good place to get a rebuild kit of the seals and bearings from 

Edited by jtrosp1980

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953 nut
12 hours ago, jtrosp1980 said:

good place to get a rebuild kit of the seals and bearings from

Lowell at Wheel Horse Parts and More can fix you up with anything you will need.             https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/shop-now/

Edited by 953 nut
fat finger

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jtrosp1980

Thanks 

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