Blinky oil light

[5151 11]

And my 312h will not start.

Oil level is full.

What now? Where is the sensor located?

Yes, I tried search and manuals.

Edit Koehler engine.

 

[Pullstart 59,914]

It seems the sensor is in the oil pan?  I’ve heard it can malfunction, but I’ve heard it can be disconnected (or bypassed, I forget if it’s normally open or closed).

[Lee1977 6,268]

Just unplug it and see if it starts. If that don't work put a jumper wire on the plug going to the dash.

[5151 11]

 

A guy stopped in just now.

Hooked his dewalt jumper to it and fired right up. My battery is only couple months old.

Oil light still blinks when I push the test button.

Edit, And the volt gauge reads 14 when running.

[Lee1977 6,268]

Now check the voltage across the battery with it running should be around 14.5 volts.  If not check the voltage coming to the regulator that should me high 30's to 40 volts AC. If you got good AC it's most likly the regulator.

Also check all the connections for clean and tight connections .Also check to see if you have a good ground between the engine and frame,  I run a extra ground wire between a engine mounting bolt and the battery ground.

[ri702bill 7,387]

12 minutes ago, Lee1977 said:

Now check the voltage across the battery with it running should be around 14.5 volts.  If not check the voltage coming to the regulator that should me high 30's to 40 volts AC. If you got good AC it's most likly the regulator.

Also check all the connections for clean and tight connections .Also check to see if you have a good ground between the engine and frame,  I run a extra ground wire between a engine mounting bolt and the battery ground.

Grounds get corroded over time and stop doing a good job..........

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,530]

All the oil lights blink and when the test switch is pushed all the lights should come on. That is the bulb test.

[Handy Don 10,676]

16 hours ago, 5151 said:

 

Oil light still blinks when I push the test button.

 

Blinking oil light is correct when pressing the Test button

 

Gotta read to the bottom before replying! @gwest_ca had you fixed up.

Edited September 21, 2023 by Handy Don

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,530]

If the low oil switch must come out of the oil pan follow these instructions to do so without damaging the switch.

There is also a 500 hour service suggested for switch cleaning.

 

[5151 11]

Maybe preforming as it should.

Could be a ground or bad batt.

I was just through those but will again.

And like the extra ground wire comment.

 

Noticed after running the one month old oil seemed milky,

on my other tractor a hanging choke plate caused bad rich condition. Going to check that and change oil too.

I'll get this thing perfecto yet.

 

Thanks West for that. This tractor has 1000 hrs.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,530]

I should add that I have never heard of someone that has serviced the low oil switch so it may not be critical. The magnet needs to be cleaned.

Have some oil drain plugs that are magnetic and there is always some iron mud stuck to the magnet on an oil change. The low oil switch magnet should be the same. It is that iron mud that restricts the float switch from operating.

[5151 11]

Maybe preforming as it should.

Could be a ground or bad batt.

I was just through those but will again.

And like the extra ground wire comment.

 

Noticed after running the one month old oil seemed milky,

on my other tractor a hanging choke plate caused bad rich condition. Going to check that and change oil too.

I'll get this thing perfecto yet.

 

Thanks West for that. This tractor has 1000 hrs.

 

When I try to reply this takes me to this reply.

Between this and the chickens...

 

Anyways, I checked and the choke butterfly is way choked and the oil is milky. Thanks guys

[5151 11]

Well I got it running by disconnecting the oil sensor from the wiring harness.

The sensor has no continuity between its two wires.

And, with a jumper wire at harness  connector, where the sensor wires go,  it will not crank.

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,530]

3 hours ago, 5151 said:

The sensor has no continuity between its two wires. That is correct if the oil level is OK.

 

Quote

And, with a jumper wire at harness  connector, where the sensor wires go,  it will not crank. That sounds to be working correctly

When the sensor is closed it powers the relay which breaks the power to the starter solenoid.

 

The oil switch is installed in the normally closed (NC)  position meaning at rest and no oil the contacts are closed which powers the relay that opens the starter circuit = no start