rick 217 #1 Posted September 12, 2023 Forgive me for asking this question, as it has been asked and answered previously. I did try the search function but am not quite smart enough to ask the right question. I need a starting place to find replacement bushings. I am not going to drill the old bushings and knock another bushing in, I'd like to find a replacement. @lynnmor perhaps? Thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 6,817 #2 Posted September 12, 2023 57 minutes ago, rick said: Forgive me for asking this question, as it has been asked and answered previously. I did try the search function but am not quite smart enough to ask the right question. I need a starting place to find replacement bushings. I am not going to drill the old bushings and knock another bushing in, I'd like to find a replacement. @lynnmor perhaps? Thanks! You can find bushings at hardware stores in the hardware drawers or with the lawn & garden supplies and McMaster-Carr. Usually the tire is worn enough to justify complete replacement. New bushings should have new shoulder bolts as well. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rick 217 #3 Posted September 12, 2023 Thanks for the response. There are grooves left in the tires, and I always replace the shoulder bolts with OEM. The last AM wheels and shoulder bolts I bought were not satisfactory. The threads on the shoulder bolts were short and grease came out between the tire and rim on one wheel. I'll have to do some measuring and check McMaster-Carr. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 6,817 #4 Posted September 13, 2023 14 hours ago, rick said: The threads on the shoulder bolts were short and grease came out between the tire and rim on one wheel. The wheel does get filled with grease, the leaking is just the imperfect fit between the tire and wheel. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,261 #5 Posted September 13, 2023 Those deck wheels are easy to drill out, they are some kind splintered steel. I have drilled them out to 5/8" and added 5/8" OD to 1/2" ID brass bushings. I think you need 2 3/4" shoulder bolts. The deck wheel hubs measure 2 5/8" long. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gasaholic 183 #6 Posted September 13, 2023 (edited) Gage wheel bushings, if memory serves, part number 5306 - Used to replace them a lot unless the tire of the gage wheel was badly worn or shredded. 2 5306 bushings and 1 5188 wheel bolt each side. 5188's are still available out there, didn't check if bushings are.. That is assuming by gage wheels you mean the wheels on either side of the deck (as opposed to scalp rollers) They can be knocked out of the gage wheels with a drift punch once you get past the grease. Bear in mind the zerts on those wheels do not have check balls so the pressure that might get locked in by greasing does not cause wheels to drag or bind, so after greasing, it isn't uncommon for grease to spit back out the zert. (New OEM gage wheels, took exactly 33 pumps of grease from new before the first bit of grease started coming out the bushing) Edited September 13, 2023 by Gasaholic 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,171 #7 Posted September 13, 2023 17 minutes ago, Gasaholic said: Gage wheel bushings, if memory serves, part number 5306 - Used to replace them a lot unless the tire of the gage wheel was badly worn or shredded. 2 5306 bushings and 1 5188 wheel bolt each side. 5188's are still available out there, didn't check if bushings are.. That is assuming by gage wheels you mean the wheels on either side of the deck (as opposed to scalp rollers) They can be knocked out of the gage wheels with a drift punch once you get past the grease. Bear in mind the zerts on those wheels do not have check balls so the pressure that might get locked in by greasing does not cause wheels to drag or bind, so after greasing, it isn't uncommon for grease to spit back out the zert. (New OEM gage wheels, took exactly 33 pumps of grease from new before the first bit of grease started coming out the bushing) Thank you!! For year I have wondered why no check balls in the wheel. always makes a mess. I had thought about replacing them but they are a press fit not threaded... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,623 #8 Posted September 13, 2023 1 hour ago, pfrederi said: Thank you!! For year I have wondered why no check balls in the wheel. always makes a mess. I had thought about replacing them but they are a press fit not threaded... I've pulled the original zerk fitting out and replaced it with one that has a check ball. It came out easier than expected. I threaded the hole with a 1/4-28" tap and installed new fittings. No more mess! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rick 217 #9 Posted September 13, 2023 9 hours ago, Gasaholic said: Gage wheel bushings, if memory serves, part number 5306 - Used to replace them a lot unless the tire of the gage wheel was badly worn or shredded. 2 5306 bushings and 1 5188 wheel bolt each side. 5188's are still available out there, didn't check if bushings are.. That is assuming by gage wheels you mean the wheels on either side of the deck (as opposed to scalp rollers) They can be knocked out of the gage wheels with a drift punch once you get past the grease. Bear in mind the zerts on those wheels do not have check balls so the pressure that might get locked in by greasing does not cause wheels to drag or bind, so after greasing, it isn't uncommon for grease to spit back out the zert. (New OEM gage wheels, took exactly 33 pumps of grease from new before the first bit of grease started coming out the bushing) Thank you, sir! Exactly what I was looking for. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
