Batt. for my 1075

[Kelly 1,028]

I picked up a 1075 a few weeks ago and I got it running(poorly ) but I had to keep my batt. charger on it on boost to crank it, The batt. in it didn't fit very good the top hit the stater/gen. and set on a angle leaning to the steering, The batt. looked bigger than a normal, GT batt. so I pulled it out, nope same size, just looked huge packed in behind the big block in a short frame, Where do I get a batt. to fit? What is the group no.? for this batt. so I can check the auto parts store. Thanks Kelly

[pond195520032003 27]

Kelly, if your battery is a normal size then it will fit in the space! first you will have to take the generator belt guard off, and then unhook the brake/nutreul arm from the peddle this will allow the battery to slide in and it is a tight fit you do not have to take the generator off im just rebuilding mine

[Rollerman 290]

Kelly another thing...you may need to replace the belt on the starter/generator.

I had that problem on one of mine...the belt was the incorrect length & /or had streched laying the S/G motor nearly on top of the battery posts.

You are right ...there's not a lot of room in a short frame big block. :thumbs:

[pond195520032003 27]

here is a pic of my 1075 right now i have a 6spd out of a 1267 tore the original trans out but have a replacement i had to swap the lower body under the dash as the other was different to work with this! will be changing it back some time

it will push about anything or pull it :D

[Kelly 1,028]

I went out and looked at the set up, quickly the wind chill is 20 below here today. and my garage is not much warmer. I think I can fit it in there, by doing what you said.

Now to make it run better , I rebuilt the carb, even used one off another engine, still will not rev up. I checked the points cleaned and gaped them, new plug, fresh gas, spark that will light you up I know, it did. I know it has a blown head gasket I can see a puff in one spot, but it sould run better than it does. I don't want to get to deep in to it, as it's not next in line, I'm just trying to see what I have to work with. Any thoughts? Maybe I should make a new post about this? Thanks guys

[pond195520032003 27]

maybe it has a bad govner anyway i hope you get it fixed! this cold weather discusts me. its 16 degrees here and the wind chill is 8 :thumbs:

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

Now to make it run better , I rebuilt the carb, even used one off another engine, still will not rev up. I checked the points cleaned and gaped them, new plug, fresh gas, spark that will light you up I know, it did. I know it has a blown head gasket I can see a puff in one spot, but it sould run better than it does. I don't want to get to deep in to it, as it's not next in line, I'm just trying to see what I have to work with. Any thoughts? Maybe I should make a new post about this? Thanks guys

Kelly,

Did you check the fuel pump?

The only other things I can think of would be a blockage in the fuel system (check the shut-off valve under the tank) or maybe a sticking valve or compression release mechanism. :thumbs:

[Kelly 1,028]

When I drained the fuel tank of the old gas, the tank looked very clean inside.

The fuel pump has a primer lever on it(would it be the orig. type?) and I used it to pump out the old gas from the lines, with the lever, it would pump gas out about 6", but I didn't try by cranking the motor with line unhooked.

The gov. arm seams to be working as it should, moves as the engine surge's, I held my finger on the arm and you could feel the gov. doing it's thing.

I'm going to pull the head and check the valves, It seems to have good compression, Does this motor have ACR on it? The decal on the motor does not say it does, and I though I read some place that the S/G motors did not have it on them. Maybe I'm wrong on that. But seems like they would have put that on the decal like the newer motors. Again just me thinking .

Thanks Kelly

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

I'm fairly positive that the ACR was introduced on all engines in 1962.

[Rollerman 290]

Kelly Terry "TT" is right about the ACR setup.

If you recall the K161 on the 701 was a non ACR engine & needed a dual belt on the starter/generator to spin it.

Your cold weather & the blown head gasket are probably working against you too.

[Kelly 1,028]

I pull the head and take a peek. The ACR is on the exh. side correct? and only works till about 500 RPM's? so how do I check to see if it is not working? I'm new to these little engines, now if it was a scb or bbc I'd be all set.

[Rollerman 290]

Yep hold the exhaust valve open a bit till the RPMs bring the ARC ramp down on the cam.

If you spin the engine backwards you can get a compression reading....ACR does not open the valve that way.

Another option Kelly would be to put a SBC or BBC in the 1075..... :thumbs:

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

I'm not really sure how to tell you to actually test the ACR without tearing the engine apart, Kelly.

I did remember another thing about the "old" Kohler singles though.....

They also have a centrifugal advance for the ignition timing located on the end of the camshaft. See if you can get it to run enough to use a strobe-type timing light on it and see if it is timed correctly. (The procedure is in the Kohler service manual.)

[Kelly 1,028]

I have a 550hp BBC setting about 6 feet from the tractor and the old motor out of my 85 GT mustang next to that,and I have a 500HP SBC in the barn. I'll try the valve stuff this week. I may have more questions :thumbs:

[Kelly 1,028]

Terry I have had it running for 10 min. on it's own, sounds good no smoke just will not rev up with out quiting. acts like the carb. but as I said I used another carb. did basicly the samething . I may pull the carb off my good running C 121 and try that. but I'll pull the head first.

[BPjunk 184]

Kelly,

Yeah the battery is tight in them old models with the Kohler K-241 10hp engine. ][ The procedure Greg wrote is the only way to install a battery in a 1075, 1055, 1056 and 1045.

On checking your engine put a spark checker on the plug and start it up if you see the bulb grow dimmer then you may have a coil problem, if not you need to look at the carburetor for a loose throttle shaft or dirt in the fuel system.

This is a picture of my 1045's tight squeeze battery! <_< <_< <_<

Bill in Richmond, Va.

Attached Image

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

The procedure Greg wrote is the only way to install a battery in a 1075, 1055, 1056 and 1045.

oops, Bill -- you stuck 1056 in there by accident. :thumbs:

[WheelHorse_of_course 99]

I guess this explains at least some of the missing belt guards on tractors!

I can't help wondering if the cold is you main problem. 10 min at low RPM is not enough to get it warm.

Does it run with the choke off?

I do tend to agree with the idea the fuel pump might be the issue. If it is a vacuum based pump that might be affect by the head as well.

You might bypass the pump and hook the tank to the carb and see if it runs better, as a test.

[Kelly 1,028]

Last week when I had the tractor started and running I had it 68 deg. in the garage for 2 or 3 hours, and it's a mech. pump. and yes I had the choke off right after I started it. Even tryed setting the choke while it was running thinking a vac. leak. just black smoke and killed the engine. I'll figure this out yet. But I need a exh. tube to go out side, I keep setting the CO2 detectors off in the house. The wife didn't like that, and she dose not complane about much, but I see the point. I wish my barn was done :thumbs:

[TT-(Moderator) 1,129]

If you spin the engine backwards you can get a compression reading....ACR does not open the valve that way.

Stephen,

The ACR still functions, no matter which way you turn the engine. But -- by turning the engine over "backwards" you are actually using the power (down) stroke of the piston as the compression (up) stroke. Since both valves are closed and the camshaft has already rotated past the ACR tab on the lobe, you will get an actual compression reading. Once the piston reaches "backwards" TDC and starts down again, the ACR tab will still "bump" the exhaust valve open. (but it's too late to effect the compression reading)

[perry 82]

hey kelley. with a weak battery you will have weak spark and cause it to not run good and choke out. check all conections also. could be the condensor to?.

[Rollerman 290]

QUOTE (tickster @ February 10, 2008 07:48 pm)

If you spin the engine backwards you can get a compression reading....ACR does not open the valve that way.

Stephen,

The ACR still functions, no matter which way you turn the engine. But -- by turning the engine over "backwards" you are actually using the power (down) stroke of the piston as the compression (up) stroke. Since both valves are closed and the camshaft has already rotated past the ACR tab on the lobe, you will get an actual compression reading. Once the piston reaches "backwards" TDC and starts down again, the ACR tab will still "bump" the exhaust valve open. (but it's too late to affect the compression reading)

Terry thanks for correcting me. ...I knew there was something I was overlooking or leaving out.

I had been told & taught this technique before & knew there was a "but" to it. :thumbs:

[T-Mo-(Moderator) 4,347]

Sorry for pulling this one from the abyss, but I thought I need to.

As I was messing around with my 753 last night, and was putting a battery in, I noticed a couple of things. First, it's almost seems as though a regular L&G battery is too big for the tray - front to back. Second, the positive cable was pretty short. I was able to attached the ground cable easily enough, but the positive cable was so short that attaching it to the battery terminals was difficult. First I had to slide the battery in almost all the way so the cable to reach, then since the terminals on the battery are at an angle, it was difficult to tighten the bolt. First, I was worried about arcing, in fact it did once. Not too good considering the location of the fuel tank to the battery. Next, it was even hard to hook up the positive cable due to the lack of space and the angled battery terminals.

Now, I probably can prevent arcing by removing the ground cable from the engine. And I probably can slide the battery out further until I get things hooked up by replacing the positive cable with a longer one. But, it looks like getting to the other end would be hard also to replace it.

So, first off, should there be smaller battery for these tractors, i.e. 753 and such. Second, are there L&G batteries with straight, not angled terminals, and if so, where. Thirdly, I know there are a lot of owners of 753, etc., and so, has anyone else have this problem or is just me...... :banghead:

[MaineDad 85]

Terry,

On my 753 I use a HD Napa Lawn and Garden battery and it fits in nice and snug. I also replaced the battery cables when I first got it but I do not remember how long the originals were.

[ol550 830]

Terry, The lawn and garden batteries depending on number can have reversed posts. When I call for batteries the ''been there done that'' counter guys will ask what orentation I want. Usually a R or L in the part number.

Mike