RM 324 mower blade set

[ML3 876]

Got ambitious & took apart mower deck to replace belts. Wasn't fun but not too terrible of a project. Luckily, everything else was in really good shape. Scraped & painted underside w/POR. The blades are pretty beat up. I sharpened them as best as I can. Stated to look for a blade set. Looks like that may not be easy to obtain?? Old p/n 3719-L, 3718-R. Superseded to p/n 8777 blade set which doesn't seem to easily available either? Tomorrow I'll try Tractor Supply & my local family owned Toro dealer who I've done business with for years. They were a Wheel Horse franchise. Lastly, I also will have to find a couple caps/plugs to cover the grease fittings. 

[ri702bill 7,484]

Looks like you are off to a good start. Careful - the blades can be installed wrong - upside down or right to left..

Are the blades timed per the manual so there is no "territorial dispute" between them??

Place an ad in the Wanted section for the 8777 Part Number - they ARE out there...

[ML3 876]

9 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

Looks like you are off to a good start. Careful - the blades can be installed wrong - upside down or right to left..

Are the blades timed per the manual so there is no "territorial dispute" between them??

Place an ad in the Wanted section for the 8777 Part Number - they ARE out there...

I have then timed. All together when I hand spin the pulley the blades move freely without hitting each other. 

[squonk 39,191]

Try Dale's Mower Svc. Kempton PA : (610) 756-6453

 

Or K & B Horse parts a vendor here.

 

[ML3 876]

11 minutes ago, squonk said:

Try Dale's Mower Svc. Kempton PA : (610) 756-6453

 

Or K & B Horse parts a vendor here.

 

Thanks. 

[Handy Don 10,766]

45 minutes ago, ML3 said:

Started to look for a blade set.

 

33 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

the blades can be installed wrong

I can attest that the cutting this way is rather poor.

 

22 minutes ago, ML3 said:

move freely without hitting each other

 

Looks good from here.

It isn’t just that the blades don’t hit each other. They should be 90º apart to help with balance and clipping movement.

Also, the cross-shaft “face” gears should mesh with the bevel gears with only a very small amount of gear lash. (I used a thin shim washer behind one face gear between it and the step in the shaft to get my gears to close the gap).

Correct rotation, when looking up from underneath: belt side--counter clookwise, non-belt side--clockwise.

The bent up blade corners are toward the shell, i.e. away from the grass being cut.

It’s not possible to over-grease the gears. They are turning VERY fast and will sling grease a lot.

Edited July 4, 2023 by Handy Don

[ML3 876]

21 minutes ago, ML3 said:

I have then timed. All together when I hand spin the pulley the blades move freely without hitting each other. 

There is no p/n or anything on the blades at all. I'm sure they been replaced. Definitely a left & right blade as they are different 

[ML3 876]

2 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

 

 

 

Looks good from here.

It isn’t just that the blades don’t hit each other. They should be 90º apart to help with balance and clipping movement.

Also, the cross-shaft “face” gears should mesh with the bevel gears with only a very small amount of gear lash. (I used a thin shim washer behind one face gear between it and the step in the shaft to get my gears to close the gap).

Correct rotation, when looking up from underneath: belt side--counter clookwise, non-belt side--clockwise.

The bent up blade corners are toward the shell, i.e. away from the grass being cut

I got them 90° apart. I know that's for balance. I'll check the gear lash- thanks for the info! 

[ri702bill 7,484]

How are the 2 roll pins in each hub?? They can take a beating if the retaining nut is loose. THOSE are part of what keeps the blades timed...

[ML3 876]

23 minutes ago, ri702bill said:

How are the 2 roll pins in each hub?? They can take a beating if the retaining nut is loose. THOSE are part of what keeps the blades timed...

Roll pins were fine. Retaining nut was secured. Like I said beside the belts the deck overall is surprisingly good shape. Tomorrow when I install it I'm going to grease everything up really good.

[ri702bill 7,484]

16 minutes ago, ML3 said:

Tomorrow when I install it I'm going to grease everything up really good.

OK - with what type of grease?? @peter lena, aka slippery Pete, is our resident grease and oil guru  . He is right when he advises to use only Lucas Green X-tra Heavy duty for this application, with good reason. It just flat out performs all others..! IF you can find it...

Watch out for the 2 blade retention washers - if distorted and flattened, DO reshape them before using...

Edited July 4, 2023 by ri702bill

[ML3 876]

Did find a marking in only 1 of the blades. REX 803??? Pretty sure it was left blade. Both blades are definitely different so there's definitely a left & right. Idk what I was thinking I should have marked them when I took them off ....stupid me!

[Handy Don 10,766]

17 minutes ago, ML3 said:

Did find a marking in only 1 of the blades. REX 803??? Pretty sure it was left blade. Both blades are definitely different so there's definitely a left & right. Idk what I was thinking I should have marked them when I took them off ....stupid me!

The difference is that they rotate in opposite directions. Only a very few mower decks do this (i know of only one JD deck like this) and no WH decks since 1968!

No surprise folks hoard usable blades.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,568]

The RM-324 is a 32" width of cut deck in 1964 - 8777 blade set no longer available

The RM-364 is a 36" width of cut deck in 1964 - 8014 blade set still available.

https://www.partstree.com/parts/toro-8014

As a last resort you could shorten the blades.

[peter lena 8,143]

@ML3  thanks to @ri702bill  for a directional reference on the lubrication , its not the ammout of grease ,its the type / rating  of grease that makes it stand up . perfer lucas grease ,  the x tra heavy duty , is best , the marine grease , also has an extreme rating for angular / hi temp , red grease is good , verify that aplication , manually spin it if you can , it insure , coverage .any rusty areas , give it a penetrating / aerosol  lube before and movement check befor the grease ,should help you out , pete

[ML3 876]

4 hours ago, peter lena said:

@ML3  thanks to @ri702bill  for a directional reference on the lubrication , its not the ammout of grease ,its the type / rating  of grease that makes it stand up . perfer lucas grease ,  the x tra heavy duty , is best , the marine grease , also has an extreme rating for angular / hi temp , red grease is good , verify that aplication , manually spin it if you can , it insure , coverage .any rusty areas , give it a penetrating / aerosol  lube before and movement check befor the grease ,should help you out , pete

Thanks. Will do. Have plenty marine grease. They gears were packed with grease when I took them apart. 

[peter lena 8,143]

@ML3   seen a lot of lubrication failures , thats why I often refer to it .  those older styie  / type decks , were very basic on their running , anything you can do to smooth   them out helps a lot , pete

[ML3 876]

Got mower installed. Needs a few adjustments however it cuts properly & runs quiet/smooth. The foot engagement pedal tensioner pulley is quite loose so it doesn't sit even with other pulleys. Looks like I'll be needing one of them. Also have to get a correct pedal tensioner spring too. 

[ML3 876]

Definitely "egg" shaped. Now I gotta find one....

[Handy Don 10,766]

13 hours ago, ML3 said:

Definitely "egg" shaped. Now I gotta find one....

That one has seen a lot of use!

If you have (or have access to) the skills/tools, I'd consider cutting and grinding to remove the existing bushing and welding on a new one.

Take careful and complete measurements before starting in, of course, but that isn’t a hard job. 

[ML3 876]

59 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

That one has seen a lot of use!

If you have (or have access to) the skills/tools, I'd consider cutting and grinding to remove the existing bushing and welding on a new one.

Take careful and complete measurements before starting in, of course, but that isn’t a hard job. 

K&B is looking to see if he has one. The bushing I think is long gone. Also the pin/stud it mounts to on tach matic looks a bit rough too. Don't know pin/stud is available separate or part of tach matic? K&B said to give him couple days to look but thinks he may have what I need. 

[Handy Don 10,766]

36 minutes ago, ML3 said:

K&B is looking to see if he has one. The bushing I think is long gone. Also the pin/stud it mounts to on tach matic looks a bit rough too. Don't know pin/stud is available separate or part of tach matic? K&B said to give him couple days to look but thinks he may have what I need. 

On that model, the pin is welded to the bracket from the rear. This, too, could be replaced without too much trouble by a decent welder. I have done similar ones on other parts.

I do agree, though, that if good-condition replacements are available at a satisfactory price, go for it! 

My 854 had been used for soil plowing only, so luckily for me these parts were in good shape when I added a mower deck!

Edited July 6, 2023 by Handy Don

[ML3 876]

That tractor (654) I got from a guy in PA. He is a Cub Cadet collector. He had to buy it in a package deal. He admitted to doing nothing to it but starting it. Had no implements. Found a 604 recently with the mower & short frame plow. Kinda regret selling it but with my other hobbies I'm getting low on storage. And....I need to finish the RJ & Suburban projects 1st. However, guy I sold the 604 to is using it to have his grandkids do smaller chores on his farm. I'm glad it went to someone that's enjoying it.