Redav72 227 #1 Posted June 18, 2023 Hey team, working on a 310-8 that I picked up last month on FB. Wiring was a mess, lots of fused wires, no fuse, etc… I’m doing a complete rewire but I wanted to start by just getting the engine to run with the absolute minimum. I have connected the positive battery terminal to the coil and the negative to the engine block. With that connected I touch the positive to the starter and it engages the flywheel. All good so far but no combustion. I pulled the plug and grounded it to the head to see if I was getting spark. After seeing a spark I adjusted the points. Still no luck. When I spin the flywheel it feels like I’m getting compression but I don’t have a gauge to know for sure. other questions. It doesn’t have an hour meter or voltage meter like the demystification guide describes. Did a previous owner lose them or did some 85 models not include them? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 15,937 #2 Posted June 18, 2023 Have you tried spraying some carb cleaner or squirt some gas directly into the carb? Then give it a go Is there a condenser connected somewhere on the neg side of the coil somewhere? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wheel-N-It 2,967 #3 Posted June 18, 2023 I'm with John. Spray some carb cleaner in the carburetor and open the throttle. Try not to use either. See what it does then Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Redav72 227 #4 Posted June 18, 2023 Yep, affirmative on both counts. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 15,937 #5 Posted June 18, 2023 Maybe try a few drops of fuel directly into the plug hole. Could the intake valve be stuck closed? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Redav72 227 #6 Posted June 18, 2023 Score! 5th times a charm! 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Redav72 227 #7 Posted June 18, 2023 Ok, related question. I have two wires coming out of the engine for charging (DC) and lights (AC). One is yellow, the other black. Which is which? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 15,937 #8 Posted June 18, 2023 Measure them with a multi-meter. Both probably go to the rectifier/regular and the out of that is 12v DC Although there are some systems that are different but I'm going by the most common scenario 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 59,744 #9 Posted June 18, 2023 As for compression checks, if a starter can blow your thumb off of the spark plug hole, it should be able to start and run. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J854D 128 #10 Posted June 18, 2023 (edited) @Redav72, The wiring diagram that I looked at for a 1985 310-8 showed it having a 3 amp unregulated charging system. The diagram shows a green and a white wire coming out of the engine. Both will be AC. It is entirely possible a PO could have used different colored wires. However one of the wires should have a diode in it to convert AC to DC. That will be the charging wire. The diode would most likely be soldered into the wire & covered with insulation and/or tape giving it a more bulky appearance in the wire. The other wire would be the AC wire for the lights. Hope this helps! -JD- Edited June 18, 2023 by J854D spelling correction Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Redav72 227 #11 Posted June 19, 2023 @J854D so when I tested with a multi-meter is seem to get AC on the white wire and DC on the black. The wiring diagram I found says the opposite. Should I consider adding a regulator/rectifier? Is there any risk if the AC and DC are switched? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
J854D 128 #12 Posted June 20, 2023 (edited) @Redav72, if you have DC on one of your wires then it will have the diode installed in it as per the 3amp unregulated charging system. That will have to be the charging system wire. The 12 volt DC battery won’t react very well to the AC current if you switch the wires. As far as adding a regulator/rectifier to your engine you would first have to eliminate the diode in your DC wire since the reg./rect. takes care of converting AC to DC. Also what I’m thinking is the stators under the flywheel are different between a 3amp unregulated system vs a system that uses a reg./rect. A Kohler illustrated parts list would indicate that when using your engine model and spec numbers to look up the stator. -JD- Edited June 21, 2023 by J854D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,147 #13 Posted June 20, 2023 You would have to replace the stator if you want to install a regulator Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Redav72 227 #14 Posted July 5, 2023 Alright, she’s running. Full rewire with new key switch and solenoid. Can someone post a pic showing the stock cable path for choke and throttle on a 310-8? IMG_7693.mov 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites