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TonyToro

B-60 no spark

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TonyToro

Well @TonyToro Jr. was supposed to start this help post but he’s to busy mowing the grass on his 310-8😂

We are working on his B60. The original owner must have had a starting problem. I see now that he has replaced many parts with jungle shop parts. I see a new coil, fuel pump and carburetor. I have all the original parts though. We started to work backwards and replaced points and condenser and still no spark. I tested the on/off switch for continuity and it worked. So we last night took the flywheel off to discover a new coil. I noticed the coil kill wire had a cut it it and though bingo there’s the problem, maybe grounding out? So electrical taped it for now and reassembled.  No spark still. There is a red wire that traced back to on/off switch. I was thinking it needed to be attached to the two wires that go to the points. I attached it and got spark. When we went to nut and bolt all the wires together and retry again no spark.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram of how the wires are supposed to be configured? Or any expert thoughts what the problem may be?

 

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TonyToro
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gwest_ca

Wiring diagram here. Click on the picture again on the page that comes up.

 

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TonyToro
35 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

Wiring diagram here. Click on the picture again on the page that comes up.

 

Thank you! 
I’ll take a look.

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Pullstart

Nice thumb nail!  :lol:

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TonyToro
8 hours ago, Pullstart said:

Nice thumb nail!  :lol:

😂 my hands are a mess. That was from  a hydraulic cylinder that just tapped my thumb when lifting it out. 

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TonyToro

We messed the the B-60 again. I disconnected all the safety wires that go the the interlock. I have the red wire from the ignition. The diagram shows goes to engine? Should I connect it directly to the points or bundle it in the black wires from the points and the coil? 

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Jon Paulsen
On 6/9/2023 at 4:28 PM, TonyToro said:

I attached it and got spark. When we went to nut and bolt all the wires together and retry again no spark.

I can't really follow what you are currently asking, because I've never seen one of these tractors. But in your first post, you mention you had spark, but when you connected the wires (to the points?) it lost spark. That leads me to believe the place where you bolted a wire down is shorted to the engine. 

 

With the wire not connected, I would measure resistance between the engine and the place that you bolted the wire to. If it measures close to 0 ohms, I think that would be a problem. 

 

I have been wrong in the past and have no reason to believe I'm not wrong now :lol: 

 

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TonyToro
22 hours ago, Jon Paulsen said:

I can't really follow what you are currently asking, because I've never seen one of these tractors. But in your first post, you mention you had spark, but when you connected the wires (to the points?) it lost spark. That leads me to believe the place where you bolted a wire down is shorted to the engine. 

 

With the wire not connected, I would measure resistance between the engine and the place that you bolted the wire to. If it measures close to 0 ohms, I think that would be a problem. 

 

I have been wrong in the past and have no reason to believe I'm not wrong now :lol: 

 

Thank you for the reply. I haven’t messed with the tractor in a few days. I will check the resistance and see what I come up with. 
I’m really leaning towards a bad coil.

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ineedanother
38 minutes ago, TonyToro said:

Thank you for the reply. I haven’t messed with the tractor in a few days. I will check the resistance and see what I come up with. 
I’m really leaning towards a bad coil.

Well, you have wiring issues and did at one point generate spark so I would continue to focus on a wiring problem before throwing any parts at it.

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squonk

I hope you or no one put 12 volts to that magneto coil.

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Jon Paulsen

I would measure resistance from the plug wire to the engine block on that coily thang (with it in place, as wired, except pulling the plug wire to measure). Should be a few ohms, but not open. Check at a K ohm scale and the lowest scale. both tests connect the meter leads together and verify the meter goes to 0 ohms. Unless you need an excuse for a new meter, you don't want that flywheel turning at all during resistance tests. Probably should not have the magnet in the flywheel not near the iggy module coily thang. Magnet on flywheel is usually obvious, but you can find it with a screwdriver or other metal thangy that is attracted to a magnet. Not a bad idea to make sure the magnet is working with metal thangy. Magnets get weaker from vibration IIRC. 

 

You might find a youtube for this specific engine on coil testing, or the spec. might be in the service manual, or google might find it. 

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TonyToro
On 6/15/2023 at 6:53 AM, squonk said:

I hope you or no one put 12 volts to that magneto coil.

I didn’t…I don’t think the original owner did…I talked to the son of the original dealer that sold the tractor. He still has all his fathers old WheelHorse tools and test equipment. I’m bringing the coil and plate to him Tuesday to test it. 

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TonyToro
On 6/15/2023 at 1:40 PM, Jon Paulsen said:

I would measure resistance from the plug wire to the engine block on that coily thang (with it in place, as wired, except pulling the plug wire to measure). Should be a few ohms, but not open. Check at a K ohm scale and the lowest scale. both tests connect the meter leads together and verify the meter goes to 0 ohms. Unless you need an excuse for a new meter, you don't want that flywheel turning at all during resistance tests. Probably should not have the magnet in the flywheel not near the iggy module coily thang. Magnet on flywheel is usually obvious, but you can find it with a screwdriver or other metal thangy that is attracted to a magnet. Not a bad idea to make sure the magnet is working with metal thangy. Magnets get weaker from vibration IIRC. 

 

You might find a youtube for this specific engine on coil testing, or the spec. might be in the service manual, or google might find it. 

Funny…I just watched that video. I have a plan to see a small engine guy who’s father sold this machine originally. If I have time today, I’ll go give it a try. 
Thank you!!

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TonyToro

Success! We got spark with the help of a screwdriver tightening the wire on the points! The fuel pump has plenty of pressure. The old dry tygon line sprung a leak. We cut a new piece of fuel line and it was running great!

 

Thank you all for the help along the way!

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Jon Paulsen

Were you smoking a cigar when it spat gas at you? :lol:

 

Good to hear you got it running again :music-rockon:

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TonyToro
10 hours ago, Jon Paulsen said:

Were you smoking a cigar when it spat gas at you? :lol:

 

Good to hear you got it running again :music-rockon:

Fortunately for me I wasn’t! Lol

 

yes it runs very nice. 

 

 

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