C-175 8speed

[Dylan poucher 7]

So I have a c-175 8speed I was driving it around after it sat for a while and after I got over a hill my lawnmower died and when I turn the key on, off, and start I don’t have anything I don’t have power any where I have checked the grounds and they are ok the motor is a pressurized engine I would like to be able to cut grass but I can’t since I don’t have any power anywhere from it I have replaced all fuses as well does anyone know what to do to help it start again? 
 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,510]

Have an ammeter in the dash that monitors the charging system?

See if you have battery voltage at both terminals. If not the ammeter has failed.

 

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove one of the wires from the ammeter and add it to the other post. This takes the gauge out of the  system and makes a safe connection.

Reconnect the negative battery cable.

[Dylan poucher 7]

Attach one wire from the ammeter to the other one?

I’m not completely understanding that

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,510]

Most ammeters have two studs on the back with a wire to each stud. Put both wires on one stud. Does not matter which one. You are just joining the two wires together.

[Dylan poucher 7]

 

1 minute ago, gwest_ca said:

Most ammeters have two studs on the back with a wire to each stud. Put both wires on one stud. Does not matter which one. You are just joining the two wires together.

Not to be mean saying this but does this help and how would it? It don’t make sense to me how that could work and my amp meter did work 

[kpinnc 14,663]

34 minutes ago, Dylan poucher said:

Not to be mean saying this but does this help and how would it? It don’t make sense to me how that could work and my amp meter did work 

 

The amp meter is in the start circuit, so when the meter fails there is no start voltage to the solenoid.

 

Placing both wires on the same post eliminates the meter from the circuit. If it starts, you know the meter is the issue. Then you can decide on a permanent solution.

Edited May 1, 2023 by kpinnc

[Dylan poucher 7]

1 minute ago, kpinnc said:

 

The amp meter is in the start circuit, so when the meter fails there is no start voltage to the solenoid.

 

Placing both wires on the same post eliminates the meter from the circuit. If it starts, you know the meter is the issue. Then you can decide on a permanent solution.

Ok I will try this sometime tomorrow if I remember hopefully it works 

[ohiofarmer 3,372]

7 hours ago, Dylan poucher said:

So I have a c-175 8speed I was driving it around after it sat for a while and after I got over a hill my lawnmower died and when I turn the key on, off, and start I don’t have anything I don’t have power any where I have checked the grounds and they are ok the motor is a pressurized engine I would like to be able to cut grass but I can’t since I don’t have any power anywhere from it I have replaced all fuses as well does anyone know what to do to help it start again? 
 

      Ok .So your mower died. I assume that you took the blades out of gear before trying to start it up?  Easy to forget and commonly happens when you run out of gas or stall under load.

[SylvanLakeWH 28,506]

13 minutes ago, ohiofarmer said:

      Ok .So your mower died. I assume that you took the blades out of gear before trying to start it up?  Easy to forget and commonly happens when you run out of gas or stall under load.

 

Make sure pto lever is fully disengaged... (I may have done that once... or twice...)

 

And 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,510]

This may not be the correct year but click on the fuzzy picture and it will go to a page you can enlarge the diagram.

You can follow the wire from the battery + to the ammeter. Power goes through the ammeter and back out to power the rest of the tractor.

We are guessing the shunt between the ammeter terminals has failed. Connecting the ammeter wires together will bypass a failed shunt.

 

[953 nut 60,220]

8 hours ago, Dylan poucher said:

I have replaced all fuses

The fuse holders are subject to a bit of corrosion because they are so close to the battery, Since the tractor has been sitting for the winter some additional cleaning of the fuse holders with an old tooth brush and some electrical parts cleaner may help.

I would also take the time to clean and tighten all battery cables and take a look to see if mice have had lunch there.

[peter lena 9,298]

@Dylan poucher  go over plug in relay points , move wire connections , any corrosion ? simple basic function check , have any alligator clip test wires ? to insure connection ? had a recent horse I  sold that was loaded with those areas put a small TYE WRAP  on related spot , then went back and eliminated ,and verified function . what I do , pete

[Dylan poucher 7]

Thanks guys everyone had good  answers and I’m going to have to try it when I get home later 

Edited May 1, 2023 by Dylan poucher
Miss put word

[Dylan poucher 7]

10 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

Have an ammeter in the dash that monitors the charging system?

See if you have battery voltage at both terminals. If not the ammeter has failed.

 

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove one of the wires from the ammeter and add it to the other post. This takes the gauge out of the  system and makes a safe connection.

Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Would it be worth replacing the amp meter or should I put the wires on one stud to see if it works first?

 

[kpinnc 14,663]

4 minutes ago, Dylan poucher said:

Would it be worth replacing the amp meter or should I put the wires on one stud to see if it works first?

 

I would try the rewire onto the one stud first. No sense replacing things until you know for sure.

[Dylan poucher 7]

Just now, kpinnc said:

 

I would try the rewire onto the one stud first. No sense replacing things until you know for sure.

Ok I was thinking that too but I wasn’t sure if it would be worth a try

[rjg854 12,232]

Always best to diagnose what the problem is 1st, it will save you money in the long run.  

[Dylan poucher 7]

1 minute ago, rjg854 said:

Always best to diagnose what the problem is 1st, it will save you money in the long run.  

I have another c175 but it’s call automatic and I have beer using ALOT of parts off it 

[Dylan poucher 7]

So I got it to run but the key still won’t work and I have tried a few different key switches as well

 

[Dylan poucher 7]

On 4/30/2023 at 9:49 PM, gwest_ca said:

Have an ammeter in the dash that monitors the charging system?

See if you have battery voltage at both terminals. If not the ammeter has failed.

 

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove one of the wires from the ammeter and add it to the other post. This takes the gauge out of the  system and makes a safe connection.

Reconnect the negative battery cable.

So I can get it to start but not by key 

[953 nut 60,220]

Here is a step by step guide to find the problem without replacing perfectly good parts.

Why won’t my starter turn over from the key switch?

Lets take a logical step by step inspection of your starter problem.

Is your PTO in the ON position, a wheel horse will not start with the PTO on.

Have you had the battery load tested at an auto parts store?

Have you cleaned and tightened all electrical connections including grounds?

Are all fuses good and fuse holders cleaned?

If these have all been done, we can check components of the starting system as follows; don’t skip a step or you may miss the problem.

Be sure the transmission is in neutral and the parking brake is set.

Take a pair of automotive jumper cables and connect the black cable to your battery  "-" and a good clean spot on the engine. Now connect the other cable to the large post on the starter and touch the other end to the battery "+" terminal, does the starter turn over? If the starter turns over the battery and starter are good. If it didn't turn over try the same steps with the battery in your car/truck, if that cures the problem then the "good" battery wasn't so good.

Presuming the starter turned over move the jumper wire from the starter post to the other end of the wire going to the starter which is one of the large posts on the solenoid. If the starter turns over when the battery is touched by the jumper as before then that cable is good, if not you have found your problem.

Presuming the starter turned over move that jumper to the other terminal of the solenoid, connect the other end to the battery and use a small piece of wire to temporarily connect the battery "+" terminal to the small terminal on the solenoid, this should cause the solenoid to close and the starter to turn over. If not, the solenoid is probably the problem.

If this was successful remove the large jumper cable and use the small jumper wire to the small terminal of the solenoid, the solenoid should close and the starter turn over. If not the cable to the battery is the problem.

Presuming all of these have been successful remove the black jumper wire and repeat the small jumper to small terminal, if the starter turns over the ground is good.

If all of these components test good then remove your ignition switch, be sure the transmission is in neutral, parking brake on, clutch depressed and PTO off. Use a small jumper to connect the terminals that were connected to the “B” and “S” terminals of the ignition switch. If the starter turns over then the PTO switch and other safety switches are operating properly and your ignition switch may be bad

[SylvanLakeWH 28,506]

 

 

Perhaps that post should be pinned as a How To essential...  Hey Mods?

 

Thank you @953 nut!!!

[Dylan poucher 7]

12 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Here is a step by step guide to find the problem without replacing perfectly good parts.

Why won’t my starter turn over from the key switch?

Lets take a logical step by step inspection of your starter problem.

Is your PTO in the ON position, a wheel horse will not start with the PTO on.

Have you had the battery load tested at an auto parts store?

Have you cleaned and tightened all electrical connections including grounds?

Are all fuses good and fuse holders cleaned?

If these have all been done, we can check components of the starting system as follows; don’t skip a step or you may miss the problem.

Be sure the transmission is in neutral and the parking brake is set.

Take a pair of automotive jumper cables and connect the black cable to your battery  "-" and a good clean spot on the engine. Now connect the other cable to the large post on the starter and touch the other end to the battery "+" terminal, does the starter turn over? If the starter turns over the battery and starter are good. If it didn't turn over try the same steps with the battery in your car/truck, if that cures the problem then the "good" battery wasn't so good.

Presuming the starter turned over move the jumper wire from the starter post to the other end of the wire going to the starter which is one of the large posts on the solenoid. If the starter turns over when the battery is touched by the jumper as before then that cable is good, if not you have found your problem.

Presuming the starter turned over move that jumper to the other terminal of the solenoid, connect the other end to the battery and use a small piece of wire to temporarily connect the battery "+" terminal to the small terminal on the solenoid, this should cause the solenoid to close and the starter to turn over. If not, the solenoid is probably the problem.

If this was successful remove the large jumper cable and use the small jumper wire to the small terminal of the solenoid, the solenoid should close and the starter turn over. If not the cable to the battery is the problem.

Presuming all of these have been successful remove the black jumper wire and repeat the small jumper to small terminal, if the starter turns over the ground is good.

If all of these components test good then remove your ignition switch, be sure the transmission is in neutral, parking brake on, clutch depressed and PTO off. Use a small jumper to connect the terminals that were connected to the “B” and “S” terminals of the ignition switch. If the starter turns over then the PTO switch and other safety switches are operating properly and your ignition switch may be bad

Ok I will try these when I get home later but I do know that all the safety switches are good and work last that I knew of since u had it riding around yesterday but not start by key 

[Dylan poucher 7]

Im also thinking about rewiring the lawnmower but I will have the clutch and pto safety switch’s 

 

[Dylan poucher 7]

On 4/30/2023 at 9:49 PM, gwest_ca said:

Have an ammeter in the dash that monitors the charging system?

See if you have battery voltage at both terminals. If not the ammeter has failed.

 

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Remove one of the wires from the ammeter and add it to the other post. This takes the gauge out of the  system and makes a safe connection.

Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Do u know the wiring for a magnum Kohler 18?