What to use to clean an S/G

[pfrederi 17,147]

Trying to fix up a S/G.  I have the DelcoRemy service manual and it is pretty clear to not use de-greasing agents on the field coils/armature.  There is a lot of crud in it some old grease but mostly the black powder I guess from the brushes.  I am guessing that being electric and have an insulator on each coil that looks a bit like paper water based stuff isn't good either....

 

Suggestions???

 

 

[Pullstart 59,720]

@WHX?? @Achto?  I have aerosol cans of electrics cleaner.  I’m not sure what the difference between that and brake clean is…

[953 nut 51,680]

I've used a tooth brush and mineral spirits, worked OK.

[WHX?? 46,773]

Ahhh a job I do not relish and unfortunately the bulk of my tractors have SGs.

I start out by giving both parts an extensive meeting with a blow gun. Outside if possible the black is gonna fly. The outside I will just wipe down good with parts cleaner.

The armature usually cleans up with the blow gun. But if either piece needs more just use a can of off the shelf brake cleaner with the straw. Follow with the blow gun and repeat as required. Plan to go through a whole can if really dirty.

Bearings come out and get replaced no matter how they sound. End bells go in the parts cleaner.  

Re-clean the armature if shining up comutators or under cutting mica. 

I wear disposable exam gloves when handling parts. The carbon residue does not come off for a long time. 

Edited January 14, 2023 by WHX??

[WHX?? 46,773]

2 hours ago, Pullstart said:

@WHX?? @Achto?  I have aerosol cans of electrics cleaner.  I’m not sure what the difference between that and brake clean is…

Not much both products are pretty much refrigerants with a high boiling point. They dry quickly and leave no residues.  

[ri702bill 7,319]

26 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Re-clean the armature if shining up comutators or under cutting mica. 

Undercutting is essential to leave a separation between the commutators so they do not get bridged and short out from the expelled carbon off the brushes. (having flashbacks of Automotive Trade Shop School 1972-73.....)

Edited January 14, 2023 by ri702bill

[WHX?? 46,773]

[ri702bill 7,319]

@WHX?? - Excellent. We used to do ours in a pair of wooden Vee blocks to make rotating the armature easier..... I still do!

 

Edited January 14, 2023 by ri702bill

[WHX?? 46,773]

Absolutely Bill the,  key is to get the nice top of the "H" groove not a V.

A dremel  on low speed with the right thin cut off wheel works really good if you have a steady hand. Old timers used the hack saw blade with good results.  Some pro shops had cutters for doing just this but most went way of the Dinosaurs. 

Edited January 14, 2023 by WHX??

[ri702bill 7,319]

9 hours ago, WHX?? said:

but most went way of the Dinosaurs

Yup - along with buggy whips, distributor machines, spark plug sandblasters, and drum brake shoe re-arcing machines.

I still do have a half gone tube of breaker point cam / rubbing block grease - I use just a film on the tip of the pusher pin when installing new Kohler points....

[lynnmor 6,777]

3 hours ago, ri702bill said:

 

I still do have a half gone tube of breaker point cam / rubbing block grease - I use just a film on the tip of the pusher pin when installing new Kohler points....

My tube of Lubricam may not outlast me so I had to look it up and it is still available.  I might buy a tube the next time I order from a place that handles it.  Apparently there is enough demand for it to service vintage cars and hot rods