Head Gasket Replacement and Head Planing

[Wheelhorse#1 1,829]

1 hour ago, WHX?? said:

They say they can "stretch". 

While we're on the subject lube or anti-sieze them? 

There is nothing made that doesn’t eventually wear out .

I’ll usually put a dab or two of anti sneeze on the bolts.Haven’t had any problems doin that 

[RED-Z06 2,567]

3 hours ago, WHX?? said:

They say they can "stretch". 

While we're on the subject lube or anti-sieze them? 

Definitely can stretch if over torqued, and torque to yield are 1 time use anyway.  You can usually feel when a bolt is hurt when you get close to "that point" and it just doesn't seem to hold or you start your final pass around and they still move.  Anti-seize on anything that goes into aluminum, cast iron, you can..or a drop of oil or grease, you're just looking to lube the threads so thread friction doesn't artificially give you a high torque reading 

[Snoopy11 5,718]

12 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 

No... I'd be afraid they would chew up the aluminum head.

 

But the K series have a steel washer under them so that shouldn't be an issue.

 

Wouldn't use them without a washer on aluminum though.

 

 

 

That is exactly the same logic that says that you need to put lock-tite on rod bolts. Some people even put lock washers on them.

 

Those people have zero comprehension of the purpose of these types of bolts.

 

If you use the 'right' kind of bolts, and torque the bolts correctly with an actual torque wrench, the bolts themselves stretch and actually act like springs. Bolt torque isn't just a term used so the bolts don't come loose.

 

ARP has it right... nothing else need be said.

 

I have never. AND I MEAN NEVER. Had cylinder head bolts come loose... on any engine that I have had in my possession... truck... machine... mower... whatever.

 

@WHX??... I recommend legitimate fastener assembly lubricant.

 

 

Don

 

 

[RED-Z06 2,567]

Another point that gets overlooked is head gasket material, you have a variety accross manufacturers, different styles and you have differences in aftermarket if oem isnt readily available.

 

Honda for instance uses alot of layered metal gaskets, there isnt any graphite or bonded layers of grapite You bring the bolts down tight on them and they hold and seal perfectly...but Honda machining on heads and decks is second to none.

 

Kohler K and M gaskets were originally a metal clad foil, no flex to them, very little compression on torque, and very reusable...the only weakness to them was their rigidity made them seal poorly if there was any imperfection in the head or deck...this is why we see blowouts, often with the metal cladding intact.

 

Then you have graphite/grafoil...they seal up well to in imperfect surface but they burn through, its like a thin metal sheet with this soft graphite material on both sides..it blows out and you get 1 use, they rip apart because each side bonds to each surface.  Briggs OHV singles use these, Kohler Courage...but in the context of the subject at hand...these are becoming more common and they compress alot, you might need 2 or 3 heat cycles before they fully compress and these are the gaskets most prone to head bolt looseness.

 

[Bill D 2,246]

Has anyone used copper head gaskets?  I saw them as an aftermarket option for some Briggs OHV engines.

[RED-Z06 2,567]

18 minutes ago, Bill D said:

Has anyone used copper head gaskets?  I saw them as an aftermarket option for some Briggs OHV engines.

They can work well on ohv because the sealing surface is usually a fine finish and very very flat as all modern ohv engines are alloy block and head.  An old flathead, if the deck was milled true, and maybe a billet head that's thicker to reduce warping..probably could.

[Snoopy11 5,718]

On 12/24/2022 at 11:01 PM, Bill D said:

Has anyone used copper head gaskets?  I saw them as an aftermarket option for some Briggs OHV engines.

I have only used copper head gaskets 1 time in the past... and that was on the B&S that is on the Z355E.

 

I did use K&W Spray on the gasket though for extra insurance...

 

One engine building source indicates:

 

"Copper gaskets are more effective with a spray sealant applied to both sides. The spray should be given a few minutes to tack up before installation... Copper will continue to be the preferred choice for many engine builders who have developed an installation and sealing procedure that works for their applications. Copper spray should be applied on both sides of a copper gasket before installation."

 

For me, the copper worked out great... I've never had an issue with it.

 

Milodon indicates that copper gaskets are the most durable. I would argue that is 100% correct... particularly over MLS.

 

I have no problem using either type of gasket.

 

Don

[moe1965 762]

All the above I usually will hit the screw head with a hammer don't beat the snot out of it but fhit it firmly a few times. Then try a impact screwdriver. Usually work for me. 

[Wild Bill 633 877]

In regards to copper head gaskets, Midwest Super Cub, Lakota Racing and Zach Kerber sell them. Make sure the gasket is annealed. You can anneal it by heating with a torch and put in water. As mentioned above, spray with copper coat prior to installation.

Edited December 30, 2022 by Wild Bill 633