41chevy 74 #1 Posted November 23, 2022 I saw awhile back on here that you should put a fuse inline from the starter to the positive side of a volt gauage. When I replaced my amp with a volt gauage I put a 20 amp in the line. Everything was good for a couple weeks, the other day it wouldn’t turn over. After checking hot wire to switch I got nothing. I put a jumper from battery to starter and it turned over. Then I ck the fuse and it was burnt, so figured that was the problem and walked away, figured I’d get it later. To night I got to thinking maybe it was me using a jumper that burnt the fuse. I’ll put anew fuse in tomorrow and see what happens. If you guys don’t think I burnt it iumping it what would have caused it? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 28,812 #2 Posted November 23, 2022 10 hours ago, 41chevy said: To night I got to thinking maybe it was me using a jumper that burnt the fuse. I’ll put anew fuse in tomorrow and see what happens. If you guys don’t think I burnt it iumping it what would have caused it? Putting a jumper in should not have caused the fuse to blow. The jumper would have by passed the fuse. What model of tractor are you working on? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 58,042 #3 Posted November 23, 2022 Since the new wiring set-up has been working well I presume it was done properly. You may want to check to see if any wires have made contact with ground though. The fuse that is used between the battery side of a starter solenoid and the "B" post on an ignition switch is generally a 30 amp fuse. It could be the fuse was undersized and replacement with a 30 will do the trick. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 42,605 #4 Posted November 23, 2022 There is nothing on the "switch side " of the circuit from the solenoid with either. a volt meter or ammeter that would require more than a 15 amp fuse to protect the circuit UNLESS there is either an electric PTO or Electric lift. If you have neither option, look for a chafed wire, grounded out volt/ammeter or a switch that's worn out and starting to ground itself. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
41chevy 74 #5 Posted November 23, 2022 I’ve cked the wires and volt meter and haven’t found anything. I’m going to change the switch. Thanks for the advice. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,256 #6 Posted November 23, 2022 How did you replace the ammeter with a voltmeter? The ammeter wires need to be joined or you could added a 30 amp fuse between the ammeter wires. A voltmeter needs a switched power supply and a ground. A 5 amp fuse is all it needs where a 3 amp would also work but that element is fragile. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 42,605 #7 Posted November 24, 2022 (edited) Again, there is nothing on the circuit from the hot all the time terminal of the solenoid to the switch that would require a 30 amp fuse except for electric PTO or lift. 15 amp would be fine. If the smarter shorts you want the fuse to blow quickly. The starter does not go thru that circuit and if it did you would need a 60 -80 amp fuse. On starter gen models start in rush current is around 85 amps and settles in around 65 amps. When removing an ammeter connect the wires together or install the fuse there. Edited November 24, 2022 by squonk 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jayzauto 89 #8 Posted November 28, 2022 Again, If you replaced the Amp Meter with a Volt meter, the wiring needs to be changed around. Amp meters are wired in Series and Volt Meters are wired in Parallel.... AMP meters can cause blown fuses and let the magic smoke out of the wires. Volt Meters will not... therefore are safer. GLuck, Jay 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
