tommyg 152 #1 Posted September 15, 2022 Anyone have any idea how to remove a broken key from the ignition switch on a D180? It’s stuck fast. I can start it using a pair of pliers, but it’s not very convenient. I’ve tried some penetrating oil, but something inside is not letting it release so I can find a new key. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 7,314 #2 Posted September 15, 2022 3 hours ago, tommyg said: so I can find a new key. If that is the original ignition switch, it is at least 30 years old. Probably better off to replace the switch with a good quality one ..... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,630 #3 Posted September 15, 2022 8 hours ago, tommyg said: I’ve tried some penetrating oil I have had one occasion where the key was brown welded in the ignition switch. Removed the switch, clamped it where it was upright and added more penetrant each day for over a week. The key finally came out but I was never able to get another key into it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 10,590 #4 Posted September 15, 2022 (edited) When inserted, the key pushes a couple of spring-loaded pins sideways, each one in hole in the body (similar to a regular door lock, but not as many pins!) Rusted pins won't slide in and out, effectively locking the key in place. The switch bodies are castings of cheap metal and easily broken. Short of replacing the switch ($25-30?) you could try long soaks with penetrant but ultimately, that'll likely mess with the electrical bits inside the switch. Edited September 15, 2022 by Handy Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 7,314 #5 Posted September 15, 2022 (edited) 44 minutes ago, Handy Don said: The switch bodies are castings of cheap metal and easily broken. Yup, Don. Zinc diecast to be exact - We made a whole line of ignition switches where I worked - the bodies were cast locally here in RI. Then the CBC (Corporate Bean Counters) got the bright idea to desource the local guy and have them made in the "Offshore Facility" - surely, that would save money, right ?? First batch from the new vendor "closed" OK - a process that bends or folds the back of the body over to capture terminal cover and the spring loaded Fiddlybits inside. Went thru Lifecycle Testing and passed. Zinc for diecasting comes in five different grades - the product guys had that defined as to which type to use on the body print. A bit down the road, after the original supplier is desourced, the new vendor starts to play with the formulation (adding Chinesium ??) The newest batch crack terribly when closed, with close to 100% rejects that fall apart during Lifecycle Testing... I get summoned to revamp the closing tool design to improve the thruput. Sorry Jack, it's a SUPPLIER problem. The BEST part - they tried to have the original supplier help us out in the short term - they told the Purchasing Department to go punt !!! I do recall a few Supplier Quality guys had to do a "field trip" to the Low-cost location to set them straight.... Edited September 15, 2022 by ri702bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 10,590 #6 Posted September 15, 2022 48 minutes ago, ri702bill said: few Supplier Quality guys had to do a "field trip" to the Low-cost location The cost of the trip probably ate up the profit on a few thousand switches! I've tried a couple of times to open up broken ignition switches with the idea of "repairing" them. The crimped ("closed") back simply couldn't be opened without fatal damage to the body. A truly "unservicable" item. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 7,314 #7 Posted September 15, 2022 (edited) 59 minutes ago, Handy Don said: The cost of the trip probably ate up the profit on a few thousand switches! I've tried a couple of times to open up broken ignition switches with the idea of "repairing" them. The crimped ("closed") back simply couldn't be opened without fatal damage to the body. A truly "unservicable" item. The closing crimp is a one shot wonder. You cannot simply grab the metal and bend it - the "Trick" is to compact the metal AS it yields - did a few of those press tools over the years - they were machined, hardened an then form ground - not a cheap process... The best method for most closing is roll forming - the seam on the shell halves on mufflers are done that way - usually. Quite expensive tooling required. Edited September 15, 2022 by ri702bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ri702bill 7,314 #8 Posted September 15, 2022 1 hour ago, Handy Don said: The cost of the trip probably ate up the profit on a few thousand switches! Yeah, but that came out of their budget, not Engineering... funny how the Corporate world works .... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,491 #9 Posted September 15, 2022 If it is a 3-position key switch it is very common and reasonably priced. Part number 103990 4-position key switch is 101917 replaced by 92-6785 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
