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  1. Well, I had some moments with the 314-8 73400 model 590000serial series. I think that makes it a 94 or 95 model. . The de-mist guide suggests skipping past some steps and doing the simple tests first. It was not until I had figured out how to make that tractor run that i figured out an emergency repair that would allow me to get the yard mowed. All the things electrical that had previously done were on the coil,points, and condenser models , and that christmas tree full of lights was not working at all and it had previously worked. i took the battery and then the key switch out and the switch had heavy corrosion on it. The De mist guide called out no continuity on off position, but i knew that one of the pins at the back of the switch grounded out the mag and killed the spark then on start position there were three pins that connected and three different ones on the run position So a bad switch for sure. On a mag style engine, it will keep running, so I could pull the spark plug wire to shut it down if needed. The machine would not run with the blade engaged, so I knew i could start it with a jumper and maybe have to ground it out on the kill circuit from the back of the key switch. so with the key switch removed and knowing which connector pin operated the kill and start circuit, the whole shebang ran with the application of current to the start pin and application of ground to the kill circuit.Without the key installed, the blade engagement did not kill the circuit. Of course, it is a good idea to have a fuse in the jump wire in case you make a mistake. I learned that the hard way years back messing around with honda seventies motorcycles. Five or ten amps is plenty of fuse when the tractor has solenoid protected circuits as does the modern series of tractors. What really is outstanding about Redsquare is that the file moderator put up an in color wiring diagram for another member that i ran across. it was a much better diagram than i previously found an then it started making more sense
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