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I work for a chemical company and recently had to run some paint stripper trials for an automotive supplier. When we finished, my boss asked how in the hell are we going to get rid of the leftover strippers (about 20 gallons including a gallon of straight methylene chloride). I told him I'd take care of it. I've also managed to accumulate a decent amount of zirconium conversion chemicals we use with our agricultural customers. Incredible performance in salt spray (rust) and crosshatch (adhesion) tests. All I'm lacking is the motivation to tear a tractor down for a proper paint job. For "over the counter" - this stuff is pretty decent

Well I've spent the last 2 days running the 1912 trying to get it dialed in and I've found three problems: 1. It idles like crap. It really struggles. It doesn't even out with choke and runs like it's flooding but there isn't an adjustment for the idle mixture so that's a problem I straight up can't fix. 2. It blows oil smoke on and off. It doesn't do it constantly, but it definitely does do it. 3. It has a horrendous bottom end knock. It sounds like a rod is about to punch through the side of the block at any second, and it's definitely not valve related. I think it's kaput, which is a shame because I haven't even driven either of the tractors that the engine has been mounted in. I'm gonna see if I can gain access to the inside of the engine to see exactly what's going on but I don't think it's going to be good.

You could use a Kawasaki pump and mounting bracket. A little ugly, but a good quality pump that's made in Japan. Use Kawasaki pump# 49040-0803. The pulse line location is different than the pump in the video. Better configuration for this application. KVID0853.mp4

Yeah, the mental health is a big portion haha. Dont want to be thinking about this thing while im at work but my primitive brain is making me! Im going to investigate the electronic fuel pump route, but I feel like a primer bulb would work just fine, and while im at it just change all fuel lines/clamps to eliminate air leakage.

All my tractors that have the fuel tank under the seat have a squeeze bulb to prime the fuel pump. If the fuel pumps show any sign of failing I replace the pump and primer bulb with an e pump.

All of my workers and customs have electric fuel pumps, the only way to go in my opinion. Mount the pump lower than the tank and use the power going to your hour meter since it is fuse protected and turns off with the key.

Matt hasn't made them for a few years but @cleat may be able to help you out.

Greatly appreciated! Still gotta fab up some rear hitch parts, but so far it is really growing on me. Tried out the suitcase weights...

Nice find!

@PeacemakerJack noting your reference to that drive belt IDLER PULLEY , known for lubrication failure , referral to belt bounce is typically incremental bearing lube hang up . causing stop / start bounce , have made a point of enhancing all of my idler pulleys , with similar / yet different pulley , allowing a wide grease shield bearing , hi temp polyurea grease , eliminates belt bounce , might also consider , adding some vent slotting on your drive belt guard , local , metal shop , can easily punch in what ever set up you want , bring over the guard , and ask , pete

Mine was the module. It ran fine when cold but died and wouldn't start when hot.

Daylight pics...