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What we lack in enlightenment we make up for in levity.

Too bad it isn't a stuck school bus retrieval device.

Could be a northern Wisconsin "lost in the plow field phone / wallet retrieval device..." I think @Achto and @WHX?? had one in the trailer at your plow day just in case...

Edward Tractor Hands...

First Portable steam engine The Watertown Steam Engine Company was located in Watertown, New York and began in 1866 and owned by the Palmer Brothers. The business employed 100 men, turned out 400 steam engines, saw mills, and agricultural engines. These were sold all over the US, Canada, Cuba and probably other parts of the world. Much of the cast iron they used was produced locally. Having portable power allowed loggers to reduce the amount of hand labor that needed to be performed in the forest and farmers could now process crops more efficiently on site rather than having to take then to processing facilities with stationary steam or water-wheel powered equipment. This also expanded the market for smaller farmer-owned processing equipment. It held patents on a portable steam engine with the cylinder and valve chest integral with the boiler steam dome, and a riding cut-off valve. The first patent was in 1871 for the "First Portable Steam Engine" made in the United States. Many of the Watertown Steam Engine Company's portable steam engines exist today, in private collections or in museums. There is no indication of when the business shut down but there are some collectors who have Watertown Steam Engine Company steam engines manufactured as late as 1920.

Would look good hanging from the ceiling ... light fixture for a pool table...did you buy it?

Medieval Torture Device!

Fully rebuilt Kohler 10hp K241 , this engine is for shaker plate applications ( rubber engine mounts ) , ALL genuine Kohler replacement parts (even the oil) were used in the rebuild, professionally refinished using PPG automotive paint. Carb is fully rebuilt, new air filter, points, plug..... Has been bench run. $700.00 Will need a $50.00 non-refundable deposit in order for it to make the trip. If you have any questions regarding the rebuild, send me a private message, or call / text during normal business hours.

Underwear dryer. hang it over the wood stove. Double duty item!

I thought it was a flip flop picker upper when they fell off of feet in the no floor board bus after 6 months of sitting in a field.

I do believe that it is a hay grapple. Taken apart of course.

Lotta help you jokers are today

a portable extendable oversize back scratcher?

In the late 1980's or early '90's, we were in Kenya, Africa. Men made a living turning rocks into gravel and sold the gravel. They were hand crushing rock with hammers. Last fall my wife and I toured a closed granite quarry that's now a state park. Got me to thinking I needed an abandoned granite quarry on my train set. It's not complete yet (model train is my winter project) but I'm happy with the way it's going. The crane and the dilapidated building are made of card stock. I took photos of the quarry when it was in operation to help me stage some of the components my diorama.

I saw these at the local agricultural/vintage auction at the weekend. I put a bid in at £10.00, and won!!! 6.90 x 180 -15. Unused. There was also a C161 with a 48” S. D deck, this made £750.00, and a 42” S.D deck on its own, which made £380.00! So I was quite pleased with my purchase! Now I suppose I’m going to have to look at building a “Horse” to fit them to!

Well finally came across the deal I was looking for on a wood chipper! So upside to this one is it's 11.5hp and runs perfect and looks hardly used. Downside is the brush hopper is broken. So I'll look to get some cheap to free sheet metal of some kind and make a decent hopper down the road. For now though I just closed off the open side with a piece of wood for now. I'll be using the main limb chute more anyways. But have long wanted one to mount on the front of the WH for my woods and trail cleanups. I have a front 2" receiver so will put it on front so I can pull the cart in back still. For the mount I used a Harbor Freight step hitch extension and drilled out the mounting bolts for it and bolted it down. Ground clearance was about 6-7" once mounted on the 312 so might gain a tad more on the C100 with 8" rims. But it cleared all the little hills I will go over to get down into the woods area. So am happy on how it turned out. Also seems to double nice for some front ballast when needed. Guessing it weighs around 80-100lbs or so. Might put it on next time I'm plowing the garden! Test run was a success!

Unless, of course your only WH is a "Commando"

Thanks you two! The rest of ya… well… happy Friday!

Being careful to not “chop” these off with the 42”RD…someone would be vey mad, might not get dinner tonight

Google image antique hay grapple. That's what it is @Achto is right. One side just needs flipped around on it.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Froelich

I use this same pump no problems

A lot of strange going on. Never have I ever seen a Positive ground on a 12v system. I did obtain a tractor with the battery hooked up backwards on an Onan engine once, it turned over just fine but would not start. Also looking at your diagram it appears as though the two wires coming from the stator are going to the terminals on the right side of the regulator and the wire from the switch is going to the terminal on the left. Typical regulator/rectifier wiring is the 2 wires from the stator go to the outside terminals and the wire from the switch goes to the center terminal if all tree terms are in line. Top two terminals for the stator and bottom terminal for the switch, for a stacked configuration. Have you ever put a meter on your battery to make sure that the polarity is what it says it is? Just wondering if it was labeled wrong by chance.

I saw this on an estate sale ad. Hay rake? Cultivator? Drag?

This is interesting Richard. I have been trying to solve the exact same problem on my 310-8. It will net energize the starter with the ignition switch start position. Th solenoid pulls in and the engine starts when I energize the solenoid direct from the battery. I have pulled the ignition switch and I have contact between the B and S tabs when the switch is in start position. I have run a jumper from the S tab to the solenoid and it still will not start from the ignition switch. I have to check to be sure I have 12V coming to the B tab. Would the engine run w/o 12v to the B tab?

What you see in the picture is a combination aggregate of Bank Run gravel & 1.5" stone. That will be leveled out and compacted again. The wood is going to be wrapped with sill seal which is about 1/8 thick. That gives the slab enough room to move around.

The first obvious problem is on the hood sides, poor thing thinks it isn't loved enough to be a Wheel Horse!

5003 RJ and 5010 Suburban 3 pc trans have the brake band mounting tab in slightly different locations. RJ - the mount tab is vertical and Suburban that mount tab is at 45 deg angle. 5007 trans looks just like a modern 2 pc trans. Same for the 5025

Mr. Gasket #42S. 2-3.5 psi

@ranger Those look like a good set of garden tires. Should sever you well..

Most likely but easy to find out. I doubt it ... if it's a permanent magnet motor rotation is determined how the polarity of the magnets are epoxied in the case. I can't think of an application where the starter drives the PTO side. Got a pic of the starter or numbers off it? Bad decision... never trust the way things were by a cobbling PO but the way things should be.

May want to jiggle the PTO handle while trying to start it.

I will get you all the info. Give me a day to get it together.

better then JB Weld!

Watch Steve's videos & see if it something that you want to tackle. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0WxpigBM-CFt3jm0aCxvxw

Well, I decided to try something different. Bent a piece of 1/2” conduit and ran the wires that normally go overtop of the engine, through the conduit. Now it needs powder coat.

Swapped on a set of brand new "all trail" Carlisle tires I've had for years onto my mutt tractor (314/414/514?) today. They're only 23 x 8.0- 12, but mounted on a set of wheels that I had set the dish all the way back. They aren't pretty, but look good enough. The front/ rear track on this setup is actually better than 10.50s were on standard wheels. Though not as wide, they stick out more and open the business end up considerably. Might take getting used to, but I really think I like these... And- when I bought them years ago, TSC had them on clearance. Only tires I ever bought there. I paid $13 each for them!

Rule is Ed if anything with a round hood is seen pull the trigger... we'll check for horns later...

Continental or Chrysler engine, which is it? Numerous tractor manufacturers, both large and small, utilized engines from Continental or Chrysler to power their tractor. Both were strong reliable powerhouses and much more affordable than producing one’s own engine. In 1905, Continental Motors was born with the introduction of a four-cylinder, four stroke cycle L-head engine. The Continental engine proved itself to be durable and reliable and became the choice of many smaller manufacturers of tractors, pumps, electrical generator sets and even some very prestigious automobiles such as the Peerless. Some models of Allis-Chalmers, Case, Ferguson, Farmall, Massey-Harris, Oliver and Silver King tractors utilized Continental engines as did over one hundred early automobile manufacturers. Some models used Continental engines for only part of their production lifespan; others used them exclusively. East of the Mississippi, tractor manufacturers such as Co-op, Lehr, Custom, Love, Friday, and Massey-Harris produced tractors using Chrysler industrial engines and drivetrains. Canadian tractors like Rockol, Norseman and Regal also adopted these components for tractors sold north of the border. This was also the case west of the Mississippi, with manufacturers such as OMC, Simpson Jumbo, Wards and Big Boy. Massey-Harris leveraged the reputation of Chrysler's rugged industrial inline engines when it rolled out the versatile 101 in 1938: "Six-cylinder smoothness pre-proven in over 1,000,000 motors," early advertisements for the 101 boasted. Not only did consumers recognize that their tractors were powered by one of the world's most proven engines, but parts and service for these engines were as close as the nearest Chrysler dealership. As a nice fringe benefit, since electric starters were standard equipment on automobiles, six-cylinder equipped Massey-Harris tractors were among the first to roll out this feature. Furthermore, the company could boast about the availability of a six-cylinder when most tractors were powered by inline-fours and John Deere was clinging to its Johnny popping two-cylinders. The Chrysler engine also offered reduced oil consumption over some tractor engines: Massey-Harris literature boasted that operators of its Chrysler-powered 101s could save as much as $50 annually in reduced oil costs. Of course, being an automobile engine, the Chrysler also boasted a full-pressure oiling system and full-cylinder-length water jackets, as well as a state-of-the-art water pump. The Continental and Chrysler engines were used in many tractors and they look very similar. What is an easy way to tell the difference between the two? The Continental’s distributor (left) comes out the top of the engine and the Chrysler ‘s (right) distributor’s located on the lefty side of the engine block. So, the next time you are at a tractor show and spot a flathead engine like the ones pictured below you can impress your friends by just glancing at the engine and being able to tell if it is a Continental or a Chrysler.

Dumpster diving again .

If you have an original muffler as was on my 1990 model 312-8 A baffle in the muffler can burn off and plug the 2nd baffle. The engine will run smooth but not rev up. When it happened to me the baffle fell off it's location when the engine is shut off. Restart and run OK until the floating plug works it's way to the hole in the second baffle again. If you bang the muffler you may hear the floating plug rattle. The inlet tube of the muffler goes through to the far side of the can. The tube is drilled full of small holes for the exhaust to exit and there is a cap on the end of the tube. The tube burns off at the holes leaving the cap and a bit of the tube to float around.

@victorb Funny that you bring this up, because today I had to get my 60” deck out and mounted. I have a C-141 with a loader that I use to move it. The deck goes on a 416-H with 6” front wheels and no forward swept front axle. So I have to jack up the front of the tractor to get the deck under it. As I was fighting it and using profanity to help it along I started to think that there’s no way I’m doing this when I get older. And I’m doing it on a smooth concrete floor! @Ed Kennell This year for the first time I tied a small rope to the deck so I could stand up and pull it. The damn thing is HEAVY. @Handy Don One year I did drive over it to mount it and I will never do that again. Let’s just say it didn’t go well, but I had to try! I dread taking it on and off every year but it needs to come off to get the underside power washed and blades sharpened before being put away for winter. My 44” two stage blower is mounted to my 417-A and it doesn’t come off! I mounted it on the tractor at least 15 years ago and have never taken it off, nor do I plan to! Most of my other attachments are on dedicated tractors like Ed said to do. Sweeper, rototiller, plow, grader blade, cultivators, sickle bar, generator, loader, dethatcher. I think that’s all I have!! It is a good excuse to have more tractors!

No Fram filters on anything we own, been running Napa Gold on everything for years, but thinking of switching to Baldwin, I usually buy in bulk and keep filters for all our equipment on the shelf at the farm, and the local bearing and industrial supply quoted me a better price for Baldwin filters than what I get them for at Napa. Even my pickup gets Napa filters, I’ve read everywhere to use nothing but Motorcraft filters on the 6.0 PowerStroke, but I’ve been running a Napa filter ever since I bought it, 40k miles in the past year and a half and no trouble yet

understood that many manufacturers sub out their work to other firms -- but my thinking on OEM is that companies like Kohler set the specifications to the engineering design for their engines

when it comes to the longevity of the tractor or its over all well being i use OEM WH products -- so my oil filters are WH originals -- for whatever the few dollars difference may be i prefer the WH products for something like an oil filter

Any company that sells the junk pictured in an above post does not deserve my business. YMMV

I’ve been using Rotella straight 30 for over 20 years. Haven’t blown anything up yet. No need to overthink oil. I have enough to worry about.