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HAPPY HALLOWEEN

Hope you all have a safe and fun filled Halloween!

On the 5xi-series tractors, the plastic fuel tank (which I assume is some kind of polyethylene) is secured at its top and sides by several irregularly-shaped pieces of foam rubber sandwiched between the tank and the rear fender. The old foam rubber on my GT18 had deteriorated to what was essentially powder, which allowed the tank to flop around, and it's probably not in any better shape on my 522xi, which is the same vintage (2001). I haven't yet been able to find any OEM or specific aftermarket replacements for the foam pieces, but if anyone knows of any, let me know. In the meantime, I'm going to experiment a bit and try fabricating some replacements. I didn't know how thick the original foam was, since there wasn't any intact foam to measure, so I thought I would start by determining what the space is between the fender and the tank. To measure the space, I stuck little mounds of modeling clay at several locations on the tank, placed a little piece of polyethylene over each one to keep it from sticking to the fender, laid the fender in place with the mounting holes aligned with the captive nuts in the frame, and pushed straight down on the fender until it contacted the frame. When I lifted off the fender, the height of each mound of clay was mashed down to match the space. All of the mounds measured 9/16" or very close to it. The foam rubber will need to be a little thicker than the space, so that it compresses just enough against the tank to hold it securely. I'm going to have to guess as to what thickness and compressibility would work best, based on a combination of intuition, logic, and black magic. It's possible that I might have to try a few different foam rubber combinations before I find one that will hold the tank securely without stressing anything. To begin my first experiment, I just ordered some 3/4" foam made of a blend of Buna-N, neoprene, and vinyl. It's listed as having good oil resistance, and it's considered ultra soft (rated at 4 psi to compress it 25%). This is a closed-cell foam, but the original foam might have been open cell (I think there are some pros and cons to each). I will need to be careful to place the foam pieces so that they allow drainage and don't not trap water anywhere. The foam should arrive in a day or two, and I'll post an update on how it goes.

Hope this old posts from other R-26 owners may be of assistance.

Both of those tillers will fit all C,300,400,500 series tractors. I have a 7-1251 that I’ve been using on my Work Horse GT-1800 since 1984. Repairing the other one is really not a big deal. The hardest part is getting the tines off. Since the tines appear to have little use it’s definitely worth fixing.

as you're seeing there's plenty of help here

Welcome to Red Square. Here is what we have for the model 2-0100 in random order. We have a tractor parts list but no illustrations to go with them. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?&q=2-0100&type=downloads_file&search_and_or=or&sortby=relevancy Best guess is you have a 1972 model. The V50 (5hp) engine is not listed for this model but little is known about Belgium product. We show a V70-125093A (7hp). Did find a parts list for the engine you have but it was not originally used Wheel Horse in anything. They did use V50 engines in walking mowers but not this one. https://www.partstree.com/models/v50-60148h-tecumseh-engine/

Happy Halloween!! Looks like even the undead like Wheel Horse.

One street in Franklin NC has become a trick or treater's go-to location. Each year the majority of the houses on Bidwell Street are decked out with the most outlandish ghostly, ghoulish decorations ever seen and thousands of costumed children and pets roam the street. The police block of the street, our church gives out hot dogs and bottled water (last year we only had 1,200 hot dogs and ran out). Take a peak at Halloween in a small Western North Carolina city.

National Knock Knock Joke Day is on October 31, every year, and it celebrates one of the most popular joke cycles. Perfectly suitable for all age groups, knock-knock jokes are told in many English-speaking countries. Knock-knock is a call-and-response joke that involves an interesting play with words. In 1929, a book called “The Games of Children: Their Origin and History” featured the earliest written form of the knock-knock joke. After the initial “Knock knock. Who’s there?” the joke-teller would reply, “Buff.” Then the audience would typically ask, “What says Buff?” And the final punchline would go, “Buff says Buff to all his men, and I say Buff to you again.” It was popular among children back then, and they enjoyed it very much. Knock Knock Woes there? Horse Horse who? Wheel Horse of course.

Reading the thread topic, I thought you were acquiring more fuel tanks, or securing them for future use! Great thread!

I recently acquired a use for a garden tractor, and have wanted a Wheel Horse since I was a kid. A little shopping and luck brought this old girl home. Rebuilt the fuel pump to get her running, and she runs great!! I'm sitting here now while the transmission drains so I can give her another 50 years of service 😎

I do not have great pictures. Not my strong point

1989, 414-8

Guess you could say I ‘poached’ a Deere. Had a plywood tailgate when I got it on the cheap. A piece of chain link fence top rail and a coupling cut in half make the fabbed tailgate work pretty much like the real one did.

My 522xi has cruise control, but the serial number is not in the list of affected units. I checked just now anyway, and the wiring is routed correctly. As to the tank venting, it's been fine, and both of my tractors have a different (newer?) vent tube configuration than the one shown in the service bulletin. Even though the foam pads on mine had deteriorated, you could still see the remnants of the adhesive backing before I cleaned it off, so I know where the pads went and how they were shaped. I just don't have an actual sample of the pads in good enough condition to see what kind of foam was used and how compressible it was, so I'm going to wing it and see what works best. Who knows, maybe I can improve upon what was used originally. And yes, thank you, I have files and/or links for all of the manuals for my 522xi and GT18, as well as the Kohler engines.

to the

Seeing under the rear fender pan reminded me of this service bulletin. Most likely does not apply to you. May get an idea for the shape of some of the foam. The rear one not in view. https://www.partstree.com/models/73545-520-lxi-toro-garden-tractor-sn-089000001-089999999-1998/fender-and-fuel-system-assembly-11/ Hope you have the service manual Service manual split up for higher resolution

You know this place makes the addiction worse. It's akin to holding AA meetings at the strip club during happy hour.

I also have a snowblower, saving the 416H to run that if needed, certainly don’t want to manually lift that thing.

I used my 312-8 for decades to plow since bought new in 1989 --- but few years ago graduated to a wh with hydro to save my unhappy lower back lumbar from lifting that manual lift lever -- was wise decision.

Hello and greetings from Germany! I just bought an old R26. I want to fix it up and use it. It looks so cool and should do the job fine on my property. But, the seller tried to fix it up a bit. And now i have some problems and questions. Any help is appreciated!!! Carburetor for these, where to get them. They all look different then the one on my mower Then he told me it has two speeds, but it seem like i can only engage one? Also the lever for reverse and forward seems to be out of adjustment, it randomly stops driving (when the carby wants to run) Any Info, manuals or products which might help, please let me know

Thanks Don. I'm really just wanting to add thrust bearings at the bottom of my spindles. Just looking at my stock spindles, it looks like I need to take a few mm off of the axles. I've seen @ri702bill's posts on shaving the axle, but I don't have any machine shop buddies. I'm wondering if I could grind or file the bottom surface without f***ing it up. I plan on having the axle off to ream it and install bushings for the spindles, so it seems like a good time for any other upgrades. I'll be checking my center pivot as well. My C-141 is pretty sloppy up front and steers a lot harder than my C-120.

Someone had the tractor with the worn out 93-9808 82" belt and original engine pulley. Either they replaced the engine with one off of a hydro or just used the hydro pulley because the original pulley got damaged trying to get it off, they wanted to "go faster" or they were too cheap to replace the belt and had the bigger pulley laying around IMHO. The engine sheet metal is all the same so the engine could be a 12 or 14 and using the original sheet metal would hide that. Measuring the engine pulley will give some clue.

They will work on older tractors too providing you use the new style rear axle hitch, belly hitch, and PTO. I think 1965- 1972 used the older style rear hitch and the tiller mounting bracket to match. But the tiller itself and how it hooks up are very similar. Swapping over to the newer axle (dozen blade/ tiller) hitch is the only thing you need for a newer tiller vs the older ones.

Yeah the D series are much nicer in my opinion. The bends on them definitely work better in a small space. But these will work. Since the rest will be fabricated (minus the lift arms)- they'll still look somewhat custom.

Thanks! I think this will help me for part search. The Internet doesnt tell me much about these Belgium ones.

I appreciate the muffler suggestion. I went ahead and ordered one and it arrived today. It's smaller than I thought it would be but that's a good thing. I held it in place and I like the look. I just need to get some tubing and get this welded up.

I don't know nuthin ! (As I wipe off the glitter that stuck to my face)

My 3 point drag links and lift arms are from another brand machine... I only had one set of WH arms, and they are in my Bronco. Nothing I can do about that. Sometimes you gotta work with what you have. But they'll look like this, just painted red.

the JD stuff really pulls a premium. those are the ones to flip if you can start out cheap enough.

So I did alot of searching and most people unscrew the exhaust nipple from the block, and then used galvanized tubing to build a stack. I found the nipple on my tractor was stuck, so I went a different route and I want to make this thread to help others, cause I couldn't find a solution and had a really hard time finding the 1 1/2" exhaust tubing. Napa has 90 degree pipe with a 1 1/2" ID on one side and 1 1/2" and OD on the other side. That paired up with 2 muffler clamps and a Stanley Muffler Company Ford tractor muffler got me the sound and hight I liked. Sound wise is pretty much the same as stock. I added a rain flapper, and after this photo was taken I turned it around where the hinge on the flapper was facing the front of the tractor. I am getting some 1/4 inch strap steel after work and will make a bracket that will go from the muffler clamp down to the stock brace bolt that was used on the stock muffler. All and all this costed me $30 for the 2 clamps and piping, and another $60 for the muffler. The flapper is had from a Mud Mower build I did 15 years ago, and just kept the flapper laying around all these years, figuring I would add it to a tractor some day. All the piping is 1 1/2" including the inlet and outlet on the muffler.

Oh ya!! Beautiful tractor!! I use the 70’s for everything!! Mowing and plowing!!

But not nearly as offensive as people putting JD green on Wheel Horse equipment!

Wow that tractor hardly looks used, someone to good care of it, obviously. May you have many hours of enjoyment running that tractor! Just a note, these are herd animals, once you acquire one, they tend to like company

Looks like it's tagged and your going to drag! Boy are those deere guys going to be upset the the red paint.

@wallfish Yes I have used it in the snow and it works great. In all honesty though I have only used it in a light snowfall just to see how well it worked. I was very happy with the results, as it swept the asphalt clean. I’ve never tried it in more than an inch or two of snow because I have the plow or two stage blower if it really gets deep.

Sold my sweeper a while ago but have you tried that for snow? It was nice after snow blowing and give the driveway a lap with the broom or even those small storms, it was fairly quick to just run it instead of a blade.

I've got the 308 plow tractor ready to go. I think... Hopefully the AG tires do well in snow. It beats the old skinny tires that the chains i have were a PITA to put on. I've got chains and a neighborhood small engine guy with a graveyard full of tractors that may have wheel weights I could go see if needed. If it comes together before snow flies the C-141 Auto will probably take over plow duties.

bar nuthin, the heavy duty spindle kit is NLA i think. it came with the gusseted 3/4 spindles and new front wheels. the wheels have a larger bearing in them. about 20 years ago i bought a kit and it was $200 back then.

Nice - I did similar using a glasspack and the raincap on my 854. You may wish to add a lower rigid support bolted to the engine - a low hanging branch could damage the area of the block threads upon impact... The reducing run tee made it easy, but was really difficult to find in 1".

Pretty much any weight for a 12” garden tractor wheel will work. The wheels and the mounting holes don’t change between brands.

Ready for snow? Yes. All year 'round. Nice setup Karl!

The leaves are still coming down so the 418 has the leaf blower on it for now. Thanks to Wheel Horse's attachment system even an old codger like me can swap it over to a snow plow in a few minutes.

I took my test in a truck, too. Failed after making a left turn from the right lane on a quiet city street. Subtle but important bit of learning I’d not had.

Use the original. Be very cautious of how it's removed and replaced. The correct pulling method is a game changer.