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I had another thread on this tractor but danged if I can find it & never did post red porn glamor pics. A carcass from @Achto and a few years later. Finally finished it couple months ago. Motor runs so nice promptly put it to yard work. Some things are just better left untouched. Character they call it and tells stories. Not sure if orginal amp meter but just looked right. Many thanks to Dan for body work n paint n parts. @Pullstart for the motor. Most of my dealer stickers are on magnets.

Swapped on a set of brand new "all trail" Carlisle tires I've had for years onto my mutt tractor (314/414/514?) today. They're only 23 x 8.0- 12, but mounted on a set of wheels that I had set the dish all the way back. They aren't pretty, but look good enough. The front/ rear track on this setup is actually better than 10.50s were on standard wheels. Though not as wide, they stick out more and open the business end up considerably. Might take getting used to, but I really think I like these... And- when I bought them years ago, TSC had them on clearance. Only tires I ever bought there. I paid $13 each for them!

Continental or Chrysler engine, which is it? Numerous tractor manufacturers, both large and small, utilized engines from Continental or Chrysler to power their tractor. Both were strong reliable powerhouses and much more affordable than producing one’s own engine. In 1905, Continental Motors was born with the introduction of a four-cylinder, four stroke cycle L-head engine. The Continental engine proved itself to be durable and reliable and became the choice of many smaller manufacturers of tractors, pumps, electrical generator sets and even some very prestigious automobiles such as the Peerless. Some models of Allis-Chalmers, Case, Ferguson, Farmall, Massey-Harris, Oliver and Silver King tractors utilized Continental engines as did over one hundred early automobile manufacturers. Some models used Continental engines for only part of their production lifespan; others used them exclusively. East of the Mississippi, tractor manufacturers such as Co-op, Lehr, Custom, Love, Friday, and Massey-Harris produced tractors using Chrysler industrial engines and drivetrains. Canadian tractors like Rockol, Norseman and Regal also adopted these components for tractors sold north of the border. This was also the case west of the Mississippi, with manufacturers such as OMC, Simpson Jumbo, Wards and Big Boy. Massey-Harris leveraged the reputation of Chrysler's rugged industrial inline engines when it rolled out the versatile 101 in 1938: "Six-cylinder smoothness pre-proven in over 1,000,000 motors," early advertisements for the 101 boasted. Not only did consumers recognize that their tractors were powered by one of the world's most proven engines, but parts and service for these engines were as close as the nearest Chrysler dealership. As a nice fringe benefit, since electric starters were standard equipment on automobiles, six-cylinder equipped Massey-Harris tractors were among the first to roll out this feature. Furthermore, the company could boast about the availability of a six-cylinder when most tractors were powered by inline-fours and John Deere was clinging to its Johnny popping two-cylinders. The Chrysler engine also offered reduced oil consumption over some tractor engines: Massey-Harris literature boasted that operators of its Chrysler-powered 101s could save as much as $50 annually in reduced oil costs. Of course, being an automobile engine, the Chrysler also boasted a full-pressure oiling system and full-cylinder-length water jackets, as well as a state-of-the-art water pump. The Continental and Chrysler engines were used in many tractors and they look very similar. What is an easy way to tell the difference between the two? The Continental’s distributor (left) comes out the top of the engine and the Chrysler ‘s (right) distributor’s located on the lefty side of the engine block. So, the next time you are at a tractor show and spot a flathead engine like the ones pictured below you can impress your friends by just glancing at the engine and being able to tell if it is a Continental or a Chrysler.

I was looking around and I have a few things that I would probably just give away to someone in our Wheel Horse community that could use them rather than trying to collect 5 or 10 bucks. Example, last year I tried to sell a set of tire chains for something like 20 bucks? At the end of the show I wanted to give them away as I didn’t want to take them home. I probably have more things that I would give to someone that could use them if I dig around. To me it’s not about getting every dollar I can, I’ve had people help me along the way and this could be a way to pay it forward. I’m guessing that I’m not the only one who thinks this way? Obviously this area would have to be approved by the WHCC and probably the biggest part would be who would clean up whatever was left at the end of the show. Thoughts, comments, suggestions?

Rule is Ed if anything with a round hood is seen pull the trigger... we'll check for horns later...

Well, I decided to try something different. Bent a piece of 1/2” conduit and ran the wires that normally go overtop of the engine, through the conduit. Now it needs powder coat.

Post them on the Big Show Buy Sell Trade thread and say it's free

I’d imagine this can be used in similar fashion to build a custom cable for a Horse. Pretty cool!

Hello fellow Horse Heads long time no post for me, life gets crazy & a lot of things change sometimes but anyhoo. So back a few years ago when I first got my 1994 314-H I had it at my shop going threw it. One of my customers walk past as im working and said, you know I think Iv got a Wheel Horse & im thinking "no you dont buddy". I give him my # to send pics thinking it was a big waste of time & after getting the pics I realized he did have a Wheel Horse! I hand shake bought it right there, asked him to bring it to my store & he said no problem. Well after almost 2 years it is finally in my orbit. I know very little about it other than his father-inlaw got it new and used it around his house moving snow and stuff. His father inlaw moved down south here when his daughter got married and gave the tractor to my customer because he had a farm & his the inlaw had no use for it anymore. Same with every barn find, "it was running when parked" 8 years ago, said one of the axel seal is leaking. Im happy and hope I can get it back in running order soon cause it is going to be handy around the truck farm!! I will post Pics as soon as I reinstate my membership

312-8 restoration project. Picked up about month ago. Going through it and finding what it needs. Hopefully be ready for winter.

Watch Steve's videos & see if it something that you want to tackle. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC0WxpigBM-CFt3jm0aCxvxw

It was on CL not too far from me, with a 1055 or 1056 carcass. It was silly, like “$175 for everything, or $250 for just the belt guard. I know what I have.” he ended up giving me a handful of 552 stuff, a hood, belt guard, clapped out stuck frame and transmission, etc. That $175 made a ton of projects complete!

All RJs had a welded steel front axle. Suburbans and up had cast. All RJs also had the three piece transmission. Some Suburbans had a three piece, some had a two piece. Those are my first quick identifiers…

Looks great, and Rylee was glad to help!

I have the impression that even brand new brick hammers have a fairly dull chisel edge on them. They have a single grind to the business end, not like the double ground tip of a cold chisel. They "cut" brick by the shock imparted from the small impact area. I was always impressed watching skilled brickies who would "cut" solid house bricks with their mortar trowels, striking a few blows to fracture a brick in two. They weren't cutting the brick in the accepted sense of the word but setting up a stress fracture with a focused impact. For instance they couldn't accurately cut a brick like one would with a stone saw. Just my two penneth....

We were cleaning out some old obsolete refrigeration equipment at work and I saved these 2 fans. They are similar to the metal hydrogear cooling fans from the 60's. The fans on tractors usually are missing cracked bent ect. These fans measure 6 7/8" and 7 7/8" O.D. I thought of bringing these to the show and comparing them to a fan on a tractor but if anyone has one of these an can take a pic and measure across that would be helpful. I do not need a fan but I'm trying to come up with a reasonably priced alternative to the obsolete WH fan so members can replace theirs if needed.

First it is not a Sunstrand. It's a Uni-drive 8 speed. Not hard to repair but the shift fork can be hard to come by. With limited repair skills the easiest way to repair is to replace the transmission.

Gotta love the clearance tires, last year I got rear turf tires for 7.50 each

I didn't exactly state that clearly. It was the Tecumseh that were OHV. The reason a Magnum doesn't fit in an older C Series tractor is that the K series engines which were original, had more of a rounded top corner and took up slightly less space.

In other words, you are letting priorities get in the way - kind of like our associate in Maine with his project. What was its name? Big? Huge? Col - something?

'Fraid not Bob... was welded in the usual spot...where it bolts to the frame. Decent PO repair tho & correct one so run it like I it.

I have an Estwing brick hammer I bought 30 + years ago, never have sharpened it.

If you have one of those springs that is not cracked, you could extend its life by polishing a small radius on the top edge of the bolt hole. The polish operation is important, as grinding marks or file marks are also places that encourage fatigue cracks to start. The square edge on the bolt hole is a stress consentration point - a 'break here' feature. Polishing a small radius will remove the 'break here' feature and should increase the fatigue life of the seat spring.

Well you're at the right/wrong place to support that!!

Picked up these beauties this afternoon. I don't drink or gamble...but I have an addiction.

Forms are on.

I made this video in response to a question on YouTube comments…

Facet Posi Flo. The Napa # is 610-1051. but you can probably find one cheaper on line some where.

If you have a cable break at the nipple, and don’t have a new one to replace it with, or a new nipple to repair the old one, drill a hole in a piece of wood the diameter you require. Then cut a slot using a hacksaw, etc, to the hole. Trim the cable and ‘Splay’ the end for grip. Dip the end in some soldering flux, then fit the cable into the slot, with the splayed end in the hole. Melt an old tire balance weight, and pour into the hole. Trim the new nipple to fit. This is how we used to repair, or make new cables for our motorbikes, more years ago than I like to remember!

A magnum and k series have same dimensions on their engine blocks. I would say a command pro might be a hard conversion. But I can't see how a magnum would be hard to transplant.

Exactly. The upper end is complete with the wiring loom pushed inside the connector and clamped. I have to do the starter end now.

@Sparky's neighbor, Tony, put a 16 Magnum under the hood of what used to be in 1974 c160 with a Tecumseh engine. @Docwheelhorse ?? I hope I got that name right Because those engines were a little taller being ohv, I don't believe he had to modify the tractor. Might have been 1, 1.5 inch rise difference in the hood hinge on those models so that gives you an idea of the scale of things. It's easily enough done.

1. No. The top of the shroud right near the hood is larger on a Magnum than it is on the older K series. 2. The difference in size on the Mufflers that are headed across the front of the engine like that aren't so much for Big Block versus Small Block but it's the year they were produced. The mid-70s had a smaller can diameter of slightly less than 3 inches. Somewhere around 1978 or so Wheel Horse changed to a larger diameter can which is... 3.5" (?) Those larger diameter cans might not give you enough clearance to keep from melting the paint on the hood on the mid 70s B & C series. Some folks use them with success but I've had several tractors go through the shop with obvious hot paint.

I like that! May have to borrow this idea sometime...

Sure did clean up beautifully. And it's great to have such great friends to help you out along the way.

@Ed Kennell @PWL216 @SylvanLakeWH , OTHERS , wow thinking out side the box ! has to be an answer here , have also used the , slide a boggan for snow blower chute , sliding base , material ,makes it swing with ease . watch out for the dreaded " you can't do that " , usually related to correcting an existing problem . pete

Story on the motor is I had a 401 with a one pull B1290 on it that I ran so little it had stale gas in it. @Lil’ Pullstart took a hankerin to it and since I was neglecting it and her dad had a pulley correct 161 that fell out the sky so a trade was made. Popped the 161 head to see what shakes and it had a .010 piston that never saw fire! 2nd small block come thru here like that.

Quite a transformation!!

More like 40 to 45 degrees. It's more a chisel edge than a cutting type edge. Obviously it's a balance between a sharp edge that would be damaged pretty much right away and a plain flat surface that would still beat it's way through grass at a high enough speed. Currently I have a Stihl battery mower and the blade on that is very thin and has a very sharp cutting edge, honestly you could shave with a new one. The reason for this is the battery motor is not powerful enough to drive a blade as thick as a petrol engined machine and similarly not strong enough to cut grass with a chisel edge. We will see how long it lasts eh?

Please don't leave us hanging - let us know what you find.

I actually have thought about a lift in my garage, I have a 12’ ceiling so I have the height but honestly for the amount that I would use it I think it would be in the way more than anything?

Click on the pic.

For a few of us a D series is like a boat. Excited the day you get it and even happier to see it going down the driveway.

The smile says it all! 👍

It’s been a too long while since I cut a furrow. Like a whole week! I turned up the garden and one of my food plots today. It’s rained some more this week and a few spots were pretty slick but I made the best of it. I sure love the sound that 20 horse Kohler makes!

I make this trip once a year (if I can stay out of the hospital) and it is the only show I attend that is over two hours from the house so the cost isn't prohibitive. Just a family reunion to me.

I sent @JoeM a message and he responded with delightful news. With a little modification to an older style slot hitch, and a piece of cable and some clamps I found in the shop, I was able to hook a 10” plow to this Xi. The loader is all stripped off it for paint, so I figured it would appreciate some run time after being in the shop for 2 or 3 years! Honestly we bought this in August of 2020, I think it was last used in September or October of that year. It’s time. I guess I haven’t updated this thread much, I am now running 26x12-12 OTR rear tires on stock wheels. During test and tune, there were no wheel weights, but I’ve added some 60 lb. Craftsman weights to each side. The front tires are little ribs, from the discount shelf at TSC. They are fluid filled with bead sealant and no tubes. The Xi is about 1,000 lbs, so I think it’s heavy enough to do the job, considering Putt Putt can pull this plow with about 3/4 the weight and less than half the power.