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I picked up my items I won from an online auction yesterday. the GT14 was $2, trailer was $7, jack stands were $1, air compressor was $19, and mower deck was $10 for a grand total of $39 The trailer is very heavy. I had to winch it on my trailer and when I flipped it off the trailer at home the axle broke from the weight I didn't notice but the engine block on the GT14 had a hole in it. Maybe a re-power in the future I crossed a covered bridge on the way home

again i wanted to mentioned that i posted a tractor i bought on sunday as i was told by the seller that it is 1968 charger 12 but after searching the vin number it is a 1971 ;but still for the price i couldn't see it go to the scrap yard ;i was able to clean the hub caps today and they really came out nice compared to the pictures i posted in my last post ;i used some brasso and some elbow grease ;what a difference ;they shine like new ;now to get a new key switch as the key i have will not work as i think part of the key is busted inside ;no big thing really ;in time the old horse will look nice ;anyways check out the pictures ;

I believe my issue was the points, but the funny thing was that it ran great for a few minutes, died, sat for a while, fired back up... like a weak coil would act. I replaced the coil, and it did the same thing. I never touched the points, trying one thing at a time. It fired back up, ran for a few minutes, then died again! I swapped my spare set in and whalla! It worked and I’m back in business!

Nice looking machine! So that blower is the short chute style and is a $200 blower, the deck looks newer and nice and I would put it’s value at $300. Are those cast iron or plastic wheel weights? Plastic are $80, cast iron are $125-$175. Those 10.5 ag tires are worth $125, front tires look newer that a plus. Spare tires are probably turf tires, it would be nice to have both types so you could swap if needed. The price is right on the money in my opinion if you were to part it out so to speak. But as a package deal I think it’s more like a $1000-$1100. Just my opinion of course.

I was out of town for a week doing a wedding for a former youth group student. We had a great time in the Smokey mountains but now that we are home, Zach wants to see some more progress on Blackbeard. One of the things that always amazes me is the small differences in the different spec numbers for the Kohler K series engines. I have catalogued a bunch of them between the Factory K321 from Blackbeard and the new K341 (M16) engine on its way in. I’ll lay these out as we begin the install... First job when I got home was to remove the pulleys. The one on the factory engine came out without much fanfare. I had soaked the set screws with deep creep for a couple of weeks and those broke free fairly easy. It didn’t take much pressure to slide the drive pulley off. This pulley however was a HUGE pain in the neck...mainly because I had no idea how it was on there. Once I figured it out, it came off in a minute or two. It has a collar that slides directly over the crankshaft with a key way cut in it and it is split, the quadruple pulley (outer part)has a tapered hole in the middle that is wedged over top of inner part. The inner part has two threaded holes in the lip and two larger holes in the lip. The larger holes line up with threaded holes in the outer pulley assembly. I started (admission of my ignorance) by trying to pull the inner part out not knowing that the harder I pulled the tighter it was getting. Then I tried to pull the whole works off at once—FAIL! When I was about to give up for the night, my tenacity got the best of me. I took two short 1/4” bolts and threaded them into the the lip of the inner part. Using a Rachet, the little bolts pushed again the outer pulley towards the engine block, away from the taper. Once loose, it slid free. Then I put a pulley puller on the end of the shaft using two longer 1/4” bolts to pull the inner hub off. Eureka! The solution presents itself. For those of you that have dealt with these many times, don’t laugh too hard. For those of you who haven’t, hopefully I have saved you some future headaches Next up was preparing the block and tins for painting. I had to change the crankcase breather because the one on the M16 was directly plumbed to the aircleaner housing. I took one off an old parts motor that I had laying around. I also noticed that the exhaust port in 1 1/4” instead of 1” like on the K321! So, I picked up some pipe to thread into the block and a 45 degree elbow. Threaded those in a prepared them for paint. However, the only way Zach’s existing stack will work on here is to neck the exhaust down to 1”. What do you guys think? Something tells me that the factory wanted that engine to flow more and hence the larger pipe. I don’t want to restrict it and cause an undue heat issue. Otherwise, I’ll have to look up Jim Kemp and have him make a custom one for Blackbeard. If it has a chrome tip and a black body...Zach would be stoked. I don’t want it too loud since this will be a regular use, garden, mower, blower tractor but Zach loves his stack! I also plumbed the outlet for the oil drain with 3/4” pipe. I want to make it easy to keep fresh “liquid gold” in this monster that doesn’t have pressure lube or an oil filter. Then it was time to clean parts, tape off, and prime... Does anyone out there have a decent condition Chrome aircleaner cover off of a Magnum 18 in your parts stash that you’d be willing to sell us? I have this image in my mind of that CHROME air cleaner sticking off the side of the engine in the factory location of the skinny one that was used. I want the extra breathing capacity of the deep dish air cleaner for sure. I can put a regular painted one on but I think Zach would love the extra “bling”! Then it was time to lay down the black... It isn’t a paint job up to @Achto’s standards , but it looks nice nonetheless and will be a good centerpiece to the whole machine. I asked Zach if he wanted it red and he said that he wanted it to stay black. Next up...assembly. Then I need to contact @Vinylguy about some custom stickers!😜. Once we know we have a runner, the sheet metal will get some fresh red to protect it for the next decade or so...

I removed the hardware store spring and put a brand new Toro clutch spring on my C101. I wheelied right outta the garage! 😲 I wasn’t ready for that. 😂 What a difference!!

Picked up this 10" plow made by Independent Mfg. has more adjustments than a Brinly worked out real well on the 953 used a slot hitch adapter from Lowell.

I can assure you that an upside down blade will not cut well, actually in my case it was all three!

Lookin more like a 753 fellas. Drain that transmission and refill with kerosene or diesel. Refill through the shift hole and get plenty in. Tip the front up to get all water out you can when draining. Like to tell you run it with the cleaner (diesel) in but that's probably not possible at this stage. No harm if it sets with cleaner in it. Main thing is to get the water out and some kind of petroleum product in. Things check out down the road here you may not have to split the tranny.

Gona put some LED bulbs in it and I think will turn out alright.

Ready to do some earth mulching!!

It's not cheap but they don't ware out. 3500# 5 lug hubs and wheels. I drilled the new spindles and cut off the originals put the over the originals and welded them up.

Have a good one Jeff.

If I send you some money will you buy me some lottery tickets you are one lucky guy!!!!

Chris, and thank you for your service! Which Wheel Horse would be best for your needs? The one that has on the hood! I’ve accomplished quite a lot from my 6-8 hp machines, but agree you might want more if you’re running a power scavenging attachment like a snow blower or the like. Keep us updated on your findings! Pullstart and the gang

if you're sitting in the seat it's heated. If you're holding the steering wheel, that will be heated as well. So I'm going to say yes. They both work perfectly fine.

I don't know Jim.... i think I'd put my duckets on a 653... if it was a 753 i believe the Kohler would still be in it!

You forgot one thing... he has halfway decent company like Jim in WI!

Might have been sold for tool a grinder mount.The ones I have used were metal with a Borazon or Carbide grinding surface.That style of wheel was also used on stationary valve grinders.Put a metal rod in the mounting hole and tap the disk lightly with a metal object.If it doesn't ring slightly, junk them.

Looks like parts of it are from a 1961 701, the rear fenders and brace, the left foot rest, pedal and the steering fan gear.

I can truthfully say I met a lot of good friends here including ones who shall remain nameless that got me into collecting, restoring & showing tractors... Yah that hurt the wallet and killed a few brain cells along the way!! ! More than a few of us here that could use a little more culture! Why is it I keep searching sites for the older Bolens now @jabelman? Thanks a lot!

Ok! Like most Kohlers! The bad ones are only from people who have not changed the oil, ran them out of oil.

I know I'm hooked, it's usually the high point of my day !

Sounds like divine intervention you're still here.

without a doubt that landscaping co and front end loader , shock / stress cracked that axle years ago, just time and torque finished it off, you are lucky that it was a clean break, without imploding your deferential , pete

Here is my buddy’s 312 with a pair of my Deestone 8.5’s on 502 Wheels. These are loaded with antifreeze and virtually zero air pressure, so they might be a bit on the low side.... but they have excellent grip! To compare, my 10.5’s aren’t loaded, and on the 502 the 8.5’s came off of, I have much less field traction. I really should load my 10.5’s some day...

Dealing with failing paint and pitted rust. Here’s to hoping some of the sheet metal on the GT is salvageable as well. Forgot to mention I got a dozer blade in the deal. I am missing the handle which turns the blade. Any suggestions? I know there were many variations.

Aw shucks!

4 more hours

Triumph and Standard Vanguard used the same engines. The early Vanguard engines were used in Ferguson tractors as well. Love the twin S.U.s. Doddle to tune.

Tnx jableman its an 88 and like the horse have had it since new. The ranger has just shy of 58,000 miles on it that are for real, spent many years trailer truchin so it sit around a lot and seldom gets driven during the winter and the light bar and brush guard and all were factory.

You need roughly a 1” long dog point set screw to go in that hole on the tranny collar. It needs an Allen wrench style head on it. Also a jam nut for the set screw. Take a tap and clea the holes for the set screw The tranny has shift rails that the shifter moves. Look down into the hole and you shown see a open square on each side. Take a big screw driver and aligh those up to makes a box. On the shifter there is a round collar roughly 2” from the end. That collar has a shallow hole in it that the dog point set screw goes into. So put the shifter into the “box” made by the shift rails and hold it up so that round collar is flush with the top of the tranny and that shallow hole pointed towards the dog point set screw. Gently tighten the set Screw while wiggling the shifter a tiny bit. You are trying to feel the dog point in the hole. When the dog point is in the hole tighten the sew screw till the shifter won’t move then back off a little so it just moves easily but not loosely. Now lock the jam but on the set screw. If your Ace or hardware store doesn’t have a dog point set screw you can grind the threads off the end of one Hope this helps

Caragana overtaking the property.

This I can do, Carigana also known as Siberian Pea shrub can be found everywhere its a very invasive species when the seed pods erupt ifs like a jack in the box. I'll cut a bunch of it then vacuum dry it, will let you know when its ready to ship. All that's required is postage.

Somebody cut the gas tank off, I have a new gas tank and dash for it, I have all winter to get her cleaned up!

Like that crew cab....

That’s better! I shoot Lefty... so I’ve planned the majority of my cover to be off my left shoulder. I now have visibility of about 5 acres from this stand. It also appears my sprinkler is reaching the majority of the plot!

That could very well be true. It's all play time to me. Building them. Working on them. Using them in the forest or in the yard. All play time.

Hard to say from just looking at the pictures but it looks to have more of a “sod bottom” shape on the moldboard. If my eyes aren’t deceiving me, the “sod bottom” is a more laid back shape and so it does a better job of rolling to the side. The Brinly tends to be a more vertical moldboard which more violently throws the earth back down and over. Works fine either way but most of us have Brinly’s because they are generally more readily available. Take some comparative pics when you get a chance and attach them to the plowing thread in implements. I don’t know if I’ve seen one quite like yours before. Good for reference and I like the idea of all the adjustments. Thanks for posting about it...

I'm more of a Dolmar man myself...i have 2 plus my old bought new Wildthing...

That was his goal... he is 76... wife has dementia... he handles EVERYTHING in house. Had to get mow time down as quick as possible. So... 42" off and 54" on. I felt good helping him... and he doesnt have to be away from her for that long. Ill cruise Zagray with it... im not skeered! And 10/06 is my BDay so I want sausage sandwich buddy! Tony

I’ll stop you when I disagree with anything...

Just used it to mow my neighbors lawn, ran strong the entire time. They’ll be picking it up this afternoon. A period of instruction will occur before they leave to keep it from happening again. Have I mentioned I love Red Square lately?

Look Ma! Twins! These are nice. I considered these same type of structures a couple years ago for firewood storage at our club. The threat of ice, snow load and tree limbs falling on them pushed us in another direction. I think Shelter Logic was the brand we arrived at from the narrowed down field of potential manufacturers. Thumbs up! Dave

If you don't ask questions you don't get results. Very nice tractor you have there I'm sure it will serve your purposes quite well. I have a 1967 1067 which I have upgraded some of the features originally. Such as a 14 horse in foot plates . Rattle can good! Plus clear on top! Buff and wax!