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I didn’t get much of a cash deal like they said on the phone, but it’s mine!

I’m heading today to pick up my new Horse Hauler! I’ve opted for a 7x16x7’ vee nose. The weight capacity, towing capacity of Eloise, and everything aligned to fit 6 tractors for shows if desired. It’ll also fit the Triumph if we chose to haul that to a camp site or show. The brand I’m getting comes outfitted with a full OSB interior. Tail spoiler and ramp loading lights are standard too. Time to customize! I want to be able to wash it out if needed. Has anyone ever done a roll on bed liner on OSB? Thinking I could run it 6-10” up the walls, then plate the walls with either diamond plate aluminum or simple race car aluminum. The race car sheets are in stock, diamond plate would be cool. Next will have 4 rows of e-track on the floor, and a row on each wall too. Pics coming soon!

Just picked this up today. New to me C161 twin automatic. It’s going to be designated lawn mower as my 11hp struggles on hills. The engine was swapped to a 18hp Briggs. It needs a carb clean and adjustment. I’m going to order a decal kit as the hood reads “twin eight speed” but it’s a hydro. I’m an huge fan of the black hoods on these. What does everyone else think on the 161s? Also the rear fender looks like it’s swapped off a 520 or similar unit. Anyone know where I can find an original metal fender for it? Or just wait till a parts unit comes up for sale.

July 8,1969, A battalion of the U.S. 9th Infantry Division leaves Saigon in the initial withdrawal of U.S. troops. The 814 soldiers were the first of 25,000 troops that were withdrawn in the first stage of the U.S. disengagement from the Vietnam War. There would be 14 more increments in the withdrawal, but the last U.S. troops did not leave until after the Paris Peace Accords were signed in January 1973.

A new chapter for “JackRabbit” has begun… @Edward Teach (Zach) has “horse traded” with big brother @Coulter Caleb and now the 418-C is his. His brother took possession 9 years ago this December which makes Caleb and Zach the same age when it became theirs “13”. Because “Teach” has Blackbeard already, he wants to build JackRabbit for mowing and blowing…still plans to use Blackbeard for occasional mowing but regular ground engaging duties. He has a lot of plans for JackRabbit but I’ll let him share those as he sees fit. I’m pleased that it is going to stay in the family… just wait till you see the creative hand of this young man at work with this machine…

Having supervisors is important. Gives them a job where they are less likely to touch stuff and break it!

Nobody can deny the ease of accessibility to the rock shaft on the early C-Series for changing from the lift bar for the plow to the lift chain for the mower deck. The general simplicity of all the C-Series makes them a good choice. More complicated electronically but I like them are the 400 series with the M-series Kohler 417,418 and 420. The GT-Series Work Horse are good too but only the GT-1800,GT-1848 came with hydraulic lift. Then there’s the……..wait a minute, who am I kidding? I like pretty much all Wheel Horse Tractors, just some more than others!!

Pretty cool what you guys are doing here !! Great video also !! Steve Bo fits the director's chair just fine.

It's fixed. Turns out the problem was the two push-on plugs that go to the switch on the PTO lever. It looked like they were hooked up OK, they were barely hooked up to the spade on the switch. Starts every time now. Frankly, I was surprised at how flimsy those little plugs for the PTO switch are. Most things Wheel Horse made are pretty substantial. Thanks.

Congrats, I’m sure that’s going to work well for you! The black hoods came with a very brittle plastic fender, and the steel fender from later models became the next best thing for replacement. You could locate one from a later C-series to be closer to the era, but I think yours looks just fine on the machine.

My niece and sister-in-law were outside when this little guy returned, he didn't seem at all interested in them.

This is why Red Square is the best forum on the net . Thanks for everyone who made this happen even the two big boss supervisors .

This is where i wanna hang out next year. Good stuff.

Most people only sized belts based on width, i.e. 1/2, 5/8, etc., and length. There is also another measurement to consider, the groove angle. That angle on the belt will dictate how well it fits into the groove on the pulley and whether or not it will give long life. Another is the belt material, the cheaper belts will wear out faster due to inferior belt material.

As with any purchase of previously owned equipment, the key is to find one that is used, not used up....

@Jrblanke was the safety supervisor, things were going very well until he left the tent. Once he left it was inevitable that you would get in trouble. Great seeing all of you.

At a respectful distance or from within a safe space! My closest look was from inside a (canvas walled) pop-up camper while mom & her cubs tore open an empty cooler looking for a meal.

Gas cans, smoking, jumper wires. We drive excitement!

7 1311 Sickle Bar Mower, also the same for 7 1312 Sickle Bars. Both are 50” long.

Looks like a jacobson crashed into a parts bin.

Today I got a couple things done. After mowing the Fire Station’s, my lawn and weedwacking both, I got working on small stuff. First, the C -141’s steering wheel was missing the center cap. So I made one up with a scrap of 1/8 inch galvanized sheetmetal. With a big washer for a spacer, a deck screw, and some RTV silicone, voila, it’s covered up now. I also removed the brass adjustment collar, that was under the plastic knob, when it was on the 42” RD mule drive, before I had it. I was getting tired of using vice grips to spin the adjustment rod to tighten the belt. I’ll tackle the replacement tomorrow. I have to also look at the deck too as it’s shredding the PTO belt. Hopefully, more progress tomorrow.

C-81 is still in the garage getting stuff taken care of (867 comes in next). The front attach-a-matic was missing the lower bar thingy. It came with one for me to install but it was super crusty. Luckily I had one in stock that was less crusty. Then swapped out the 22x7.50’s on the rear for the correct 23x8.50’s. Again these tires/wheels were stacked up in my shed, it’s great to have spares! Much better look

I got my cracked f plate welded up today. How come you gave a frame with a cracked f plate Kevin, I want a refund. At least it gave me some welding practice.

Chrome diamond plate is hard to keep looking nice. Think truck tool box. Black would look nice.

The new garage was pretty hot inside during our recent heat wave, but the old garage (which is insulated and in the shade for much of the day) stayed cool enough to work in without air conditioning. I'm making more headway (I think) on my Dodge M37 project. I was just sorting through my collection of connecting rods to see which ones I want to send to the machine shop for rework. I currently have about 20 rods in various states (used, refurbished, remanufactured, and NOS). At this point I was just checking for any obvious visual defects, relatively close end-weight matching, and rod bolt fit. I'll be installing a set of ARP high-strength connecting rod bolts, and I want them to have a nice snug fit in the bolt holes in the beams and caps. I needed to find at least six good rods for the old six-banger. So far, at least eight rods have passed my initial inspection, which I plan to hand over to the machine shop (six rods plus a backup or two in case they uncover any flaws). I will be using ARP Pro connecting rod bolts and nuts, which just arrived. I'm planning to have the machine shop do the following work, which should produce better-than-new rods: Magnafluxing. Shot peening. Installing new seamless wrist-pin bushings. Spotfacing the caps to accommodate the ARP nuts, which involves eliminating the washer counterbore and creating a flat surface with a radius at the edge where it cuts into the curve of the cap (to avoid a stress riser). Installing the ARP bolts/nuts. Resizing the big ends and honing the wrist-pin bushings for size and parallelism. Re-checking the end weights for a good match between rods (touch up if necessary). BTW, I was originally planning to do more of the rod work myself, so I had made a wrist-pin bushing removal and installation tool on my lathe. Now, I might not ever use this tool, unless I decide to do some work on the 'left-over' rods, which are still perfectly useable, as long as slightly oversize rod bolts are used. Here's the tool: I'm hoping to take a bunch of parts up to the machine shop on Friday if my lower back stops acting up and allows me to sit long enough to drive up there and back.

This roof is a translucent fiberglass, it’s so bright inside!

Just make a notation in the note to seller box during checkout ( This is for a C-185 twin automatic)

If it was running, the solenoid is working. If it died, the only thing the solenoid does is power the starter. I’d invest in a $20 volt meter and check your wiring as a whole.

So my oldest “kid” just closed on her first house. Nice property, about 1/2 acre, decent sized gravel driveway. The previous owners are leaving them a JD L110 with some minor issues that will allow them to mow grass the rest of the season but is not the right solution. They need a proper tractor. I’ve already decided I want to find/put a WH together for them…..or course this happens just weeks after the big show…DOH! Anyway, son in law is mechanically capable (daughter, not so much) but I’m close enough to help with the learning curve. Here are my thoughts, please feel free to add suggestions or ideas. i think I’d like to find them a single cylinder tractor with a hydro trans and preferably hydraulic lift as well. Something like a 314H or similar. 42” or 48” deck would get the job done. Worst case, I could slap my old 36” RD on it. Also thinking a plow setup for winter. I think that would be preferred over a snow blower due to the gravel. Son in law is a chef, and they have had nice gardens at their previous places. If it works out, I wouldn’t be surprised if they would be plowing out a decent garden in a year or two. I was thinking this setup would give them the biggest flexibility with the least complexity. not a help/wanted ad, just looking for input from anyone who has done something similar for someone

The $$ for “matched” was too much for me. I bought four, found the best pair, then returned the other two.

I could use it in my deer plot rye.

I honestly could not have said it better myself! That’s exactly what I’m thinking!! I’ve said it before here, sometimes when I see a wheat or hay field I think to myself “ I’d like to cut that with my sickle bar!” Then I think about all the sneezing and itchy watery eyes I’d have! And by the way, “sickling around” really cracks me up!

Someday me and the warden will afford a nice piece of land to enjoy and I’ll be out there with a smile just “sickling” around and pretending not to hear her yelling to me to come inside.

The exact issue when replacing the two 3/8" wide captured drive belts on a 1960's gear drive deck. Older Chrysler product cars had a matched set for the AC compressor - not exactly inexpensive...

You're not overthinking it. This has been an industry issue for decades. Standards can vary slightly from company to company but also if they are using outside vendors to produce their products. Even amongst the top-tier manufacturers like Gates, manufacturing methods dictated that if you needed two or more belts for the same system, you had to order a MATCHED SET to guarantee proper fit.

Yes I have seen it and Yes you may be overthinking it. Any new belt has to "break in" to the pulley. I generally buy the blue Husky ones from TSC and I always buy one either side and run the one that fits the best. Being careful not to run them in as the ones that don't fit get taken back. Also any new belt will leave some "belt dust" from run in. Blue dust in the case of Huskies.

@Vinylguy Terry has been known to customize decals in the past. C-185 Automatic sounds pretty beefy

I rebuilt the gearbox on a Pony. It doesn't have the Hi/lo. Their is a Facebook Group for those tillers. Fairley helpful group. You can source bearings, bushings, seals and gaskets individually off Ebay. no kit available that I'm aware of. They are not expensive, but the cost $$ do add up when you replace all the bearing, bushings, seals and gaskets. On the Pony their is some bearing shimming required for reassembly that there are not clear instructions about in the manual. Getting the wheels and tiller tines off can be about like getting a Wheel Horse steering wheel off. A torch heat will probable required on some part of it, so that's where the seals get destroyed. If that rope fixes the only thing wrong with it, my 2 cents is stick with the rope or maybe a small chain that you make a hook for.

I have one, don’t know why ‘cause I do not have a use for one! I guess I bought it for the coolness/rarity factor!

These solenoids are not polarity sensitive, use either big terminal for the battery and the other to the starter. Likewise either small terminal can be grounded and the other one goes to the wiring harness.

@c-series don Same for me, I have no need for one right now. I had one prior and sold it, regretted it. Couple years later I saw this one for sale and picked it up at the big show couple weeks ago. My old one was beat up so had to repaint it and replace parts. This one I just stripped apart, cleaned, wiped down and greased up with new belts.

Got my steering put together and drilled the holes in the f plate reinforcement plate

knowing their preference as you noted - hydro tranny and lift and possible future attachment usage - plow - garden tiller etc is important ?

Install an electric fuel pump.