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For the ones who do not know I have had this 1057 for almost three years. It is almost done. I have one leak where the fuel pump was. I ordered some plastic bushings for the hood. I have the carb dialed in runs smooth. Here is a short video. Feel free to ask anything that you would like to know about. Have a good day. IMG_1025.mov

Scored a 520H and a 312-8 today. Also got a Brinly plow, disk and an agrifab box blade. Almost drowned getting them it was absolutely pouring down the rain. Will get better pics later. The 312-8 is a 96 and purrs like a kitten, a little over 500hrs showing and supposed to be original. The 520 runs great but has to have just a hint of choke so probably stopped up carb. Shows a little over a 1000hrs and supposed to be right also. Cant get a handle on year model for 520 but it does have hydro and lift control on steering column, but has been converted to foot hydro control. Has 16-7.50s on swept forward front and 23-10.50s on back. Have pic of tag under seat but cant make heads or tails of it any suggestions on yr?

More pictures of diesel it getting there

For years the doctor has been keeping eye on my PSA which at last test was 16.7. (Quite some time ago, doctor removed me from medicine (Finasteride) that I had been taking because the medicine artificially lowers PSA.) I just finished my 5th prostate biopsy. He took 18 snips focusing on three lesions that the MRI found. He just called and reported no cancer and wait 9 months before another prostate test. Good News!

Bought it years ago and been looking for parts for it during that time and i finally got it done it's running and driving yay

Time to strap a set of 2 link Vee Bar chains and some weight on that helpless horse.

Since the 867 is done brought this one in. This is the mother of all originals. Only thing that wasn't was the cigar lighter & quickly replaced. Lift cable broke & fan screen gone that's it. Well la dee da. Needs a bath, a little degreaseing and the new to check list. Just can't believe how unmolested this thing is. Yes thats the orginal seat! The deck is super quiet so just clean that up & check over. I really lucked out on this one and you guys would rip yer shirts off i told ya what I paid. It may go in the living room when done I'll help her pack.

Someone's scratching a itch

Another way to narrow down the model year on a 520 is forward of the TORO decal the model designation is red on the 1990 91 & 92 . 93 went white as shown in these two pictures. @sqrlgtr

I believe That's the neighbor hater 1000.

Two of my favorites. 1990 0n the 520-H Great tractors

Check the bead where the tire meets the rim... is it seated uniformly all the way around?

Here we are, again. I made another impulse purchase and I might have buyers remorse.... Upon unloading, I tried to start it, it yanked, but nothing. It has spark, but no fire. Also the recoil stopped contacting the flywheel. What's wrong? I feel like this is a good @Pullstart question. Also here are the attachments. What are they worth individualy?

That's where all tractors die. Either that or the farthest spot away from the tent at the tractor show!

1988 and 89 were on the lower console. In 1990 and up on the Column.

I never had one that came in that was factory but that's not to say they weren't. Prolly a matter of personal preference on a resto. FYI vinyle guy does offer the decals for us p poor letteralers.

I doubt that would be it. Check the hub & key.

Did it always do this or did it just start? Did you do anything like a new belt or other adjustment that caused it? Is this a new to you tractor? A 953/1054 is a bit different animal than other models. There is a long piece of metal that goes under the bottom of the belt make sure that that is still in place. Item 62 and item 68 as Squerl mentioned. Make sure # 68 is adjusted properly. You might have to zoom in on it in my pic. Check the rail on the inside of the belt guard too. The Tractor 1964 1054 SN IPL Wiring #A-7136.pdf in case you don't have it.

The P engines crack there alot...my P220 was repaired by mig welding. I pulled the engine, thoroughly degreased it, took it to my buddys house, i had modified some old cheap welders vice clamps to hold the split sections closed. He wire wheeled the damage; welded about 3/8", ground it down, wire wheeled..welded another 3/8", etc etc..until both were welded up. I ran a bit down the holes as one was partly closed from welding. This was an opportunity to offset the hole slightly closer to the flywheel. I put on a new starter and used cheap feeler gauges to shim it until i liked the mesh pattern. Bad mesh is what usually causes it.

More painting done. Also stripped and primed the rear wheels for painting tomorrow. And finished parts

I call it the @Shynon special. He busted a lift cable at plow day and we had no spares. Lowell ain't exactly down the street. You shoulda seen what was on it.

Building your tie rods with heims joint is better then any you can buy. I have heims joints on on 5 of my Wheel Horses. I put the first set I built on my C120 in 1989 they are still as tight as when I built them.

I guess I may have it backwards then. My 502 had eletrics but a HH60 so been repoed at some point. I thought it was original as it was really nicely done. No such thing on any round hood ... now sellers remorse ...yah every time.

502 is recoil only with the tool box in the battery box. 552 is electric start and recoil.

That's a CBR-32 for the RJ's and mid-engine Suburbans. It is not for the 502. That would be the CBR-327 as shown in the brochure.

For the tub cart I would say between $150 and $200 would be my guess. As long as there is no rot. Especially on the back lip where the cart would dump on the ground. And my guess for the recoil not engaging would be it probably just needs some lube. That happens a lot especially for snow blowers.

Not a pleasant testing experience, but congrats for going ahead and hooray for the great result!

We pass ways close enough I'll toss them to you. I know there several of that same pump with different stickers. Maybe upwards of a bunch. I'd definitely prefer USA made but the main thing is that they work. I'm kinda thinking that is they go thumpy, thumpy they should be avoided. If they go whir, whir, it's a decent pump. As far as jinxing you...........let me think about it. Would I feel bad or......? 😁

White paint pen is the way to go on these. Unless you have a dab hand with brushes.

I suppose you could bend a rim by over-tightening the wheel weights - but I'd be more inclined to think the hub and/or keyway is the issue. Based on the video, I don't think it is a bent axle or bearing issue (though it could be). First check I would do is get it off the ground and see if you can wobble the wheel. Or remove the wheel and see if the hub is rotating true. Use something stationary on the floor touching the hub - as the motion could be minimal at the hub, but become exaggerated when watching the entire wheel.

If they really are 10 ply, i wish you all the best, i mounted some 26x12x12 8ply that i had to use a front loader to push the rim into the tire, then flip it and push the tire down past the rim...still took a few hours each. Rides like its solid rubber with 5psi.

@Ed Kennell I thought I reinstalled the wheels correctly, though I will admit that I did this in my tight little shed. Hoping enough snow melts so that Fri I can bring this horse up to the garage and get a better look under bright light. Can report back then, but my hunch here is the wheel is bent and was curious how common this was and if it was a concern if that is the case

Words of wisdom, learned through personal experience!

I luv talking with my Amish neighbors. On of my favorites came from Annie when I stopped and told her I had caught a skunk in my live trap and took it to the woods. Her response " Did ya make him dead? Ve donn like skunks." I had to confess, I released him live. But, I did catch two more since that and they were made dead.

Please do not continue to force it in gear with the belt moving. The grinding is causing severe damage to the transmission. These early Wheel Horse models relied on the lower flange on the belt guard to support the slack belt and the wire guides if adjusted properly pushed the belt away from the engine pulley causing the belt to stop so a smooth shift could be made. Later models also used the moving belt guide on the idler pulley and a stationary pad to positively lock the belt for shifting. If you can not get the belt to stop, maybe a belt brake could be added.

My 1054 was doing the same, grinding while shifting gears. The belt tensioner or guide that bolts onto the engine block near the drive pulley was missing. It is the simple bent small rod that has a bolt holding it on to keep the drive belt positioned in the pulley. I made one and no issues since.

Make sure the belt guard in installed properly. It stops the belt.

There are worse things we could be doing! And I've done those too!

I’ve had some technical difficulties with accessing Redsquare the past little bit. Looking great, and you bring that chicken coop up in April and we’ll monster garage it!

There's a few on display in the Studebaker museum. The museum is a cool tribute to the Studebakers and the areas history and well worth the visit but not to just see the Wheel Horses. They are more of an afterthought but hopefully that will improve later this year. Their manufacturing plant on Ireland Road is still there but is now Lock Joint Tube with no trace of what they use to be. Kinda cool to see if you know the history. Some people think that because they were made here it should be a hotspot for finding them. Not so.

So today, I got out my homemade vise and wire brushed the wheels, wiped em down with mineral spirits, let em dry and applied 4 coats of filling gray primer. " on scamazon you can get 2 brand new 16x6.50x8 tires. 2 new 8 inch rims. and here is the best part. the tires are already mounted on the rims. under $100 for everything". Money is at a premium now & I like DYI. Next, I installed the head. Never-seize was applied to the head bolts. Torqued 10 ft lbs, then 20 ft lbs then 30 ft lbs and finally 40 ft lbs. I have rechecked the torque 3 times as suggested. No change. Now I'm gettin' quality time (?) on the keyboard searchin' for the sizes of hardware I need. Got a great hardware store nearby. If they don't have it, you don't need it.

Thanks for offering brother! I decided $150 was worth it and I bought a pair of Rubber Tire chains from SoftClaw. Should be here next week!

Very nice, and well done!

Seen those gang reels displayed at the big WH show

This one is buried 3' in the ground, I don't think it's moving

As I predicted, all this snow is due to the fact that @Ed Kennell sold his Ber Vac blower 🤣

A couple of times this winter, my 314-8 had acted up. Long cranks before starting, leaning out while running and always intermittently. The day after the last storm, I hopped on and went to clean up the driveway. It wouldn’t throttle up over half without surging. So I parked it a cleaned up the driveway with the bigger tractor. Jumped back on the 314-8 to put it away and it fired up and ran fine. No surging or anything. So I decided to pull the bowl off the carb on Thursday. Drained the bowl into a container and found this nice blob of water in there. Checked fuel pump operation with the bowl off, that was all good. Cleaned out the bowl and put it back together. Changed the fuel lines which were original from 1999, and put a new fuel filter in. All good now!

The wide ones are on my snow-plow machine, with 75#’s pounds of cast weight on each. They work great and I don’t run chains on my paved drive. I do keep the air pressure low, keeps the tire more squishy and pliable. The narrow set are on a tractor that mainly sees mowing duty. They are great for that and DO NOT tear up my lawn. I have used this machine occasionally to haul firewood from the woods in “mud season” and they are better than turfs, but can get mud packed and then they are like racing slicks. The sticky mud does not eject well from the depths of the tread. These pics are the wide ones on my plow tractor.