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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/21/2026 in all areas

  1. 2 points
  2. 2 points
    You kind of need to look at production numbers a little bit. Oliver production numbers were low. Most numbers were not that low. Now if you are talking about a that there was only 200 made of - like the 420LSE the price tag goes up a fair amount. Supply & demand ya know. Some people get upset when a gets mutilated or scrapped out. Which I have to agree, I get a little saddened when it happens. The other way to look at it is - Every horse that dies, makes the survivors more valuable. I collect because I enjoy the hobby and even more so, the people associated with it. If I was in it to make any money at all, I would not have restored any of my tractors.
  3. 1 point
    Well said Achto! I can relate to that.
  4. 1 point
    Had a few out for some fresh air today.
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
  7. 1 point
    Stephen King has a son named Joe. I'm not joking, he is.
  8. 1 point
    I live in Minerva, 16 miles from Canton. Never heard of this. im guessing that is why the football hall of fame is in Canton?
  9. 1 point
    I had a 1975 Monza for a while with a warmed over 350 in it. I discovered one day that when a spark plug wire gets between the throttle lever on the secondaries of a Quadrajet and the stop, the car motored happily along somewhere between 60 and 70mph.
  10. 1 point
    Spray spray spray remove the set screw and spray into that hole. The pulleys are cast so they will break if you just start off with a puller and crank. This may seem counterintuitive but knock it in towards the block. The idea is to get it to move which breaks that rust bond. Then try a puller BUT you need to get it to move back and forth a little bit at a time before pulling it all the way off the shaft. Yes tedious, but knock in, pull out, knock in, pull out and repeat. It should move more distance on the shaft each time and get more oil in there each time. Try to spin it if you can as that will get more oil in there too. Clean the shaft off of any rust before beginning which will make it easier once it moves far enough out. That's my
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    So, my conclusion from the information provided is a previous owner swapped the original motor out for a 14hp and rather than sort out the wiring they removed the key switch and installed a push button start switch. After all the information and expertise necessary, that has been provided here, I can see why they didn’t want to sort out the wiring. The system hasn’t been tested while running because 310-8-14hp is still on blocks waiting for new deck blades. The old blades sure were a bear to get off. The past owner had used lock -tight. Hopefully will be mowing this weekend. Again, thank everyone who contributed and kept me from going bonkers.😵‍💫
  13. 1 point
    I chose a front-mounted winch. Personal preference of mine and pretty simple construction with a section of an old frame. Weight in the rear can be an issue but this attaches just about as quickly and doesn't stress the frame at the uni-drive bracket.
  14. 1 point
    I used that line once, the judge wasn't amused at all. Guilty as charged.
  15. 1 point
    Hello everyone. I have not falling off the face of the earth just yet and have been working on the old C120 that I got from my Grandfather years ago. I didn't really use it much as the old K301 was leaking and very worn out. So, I just let it sit in the barn for a long time. Well I got to thinking lately and I was like it time to get it going again. So I took it to work and stuck it in my work bay to get me working on it. To start we need to do something with the engine. Well, one of my co workers had a good shape K321 from a Cub Cadet. So, they was the first thing to do. (The first two photos of of it mocked up.) Once it was secured, I had to redo the whole wiring harness from scratch. The old one melt at some point and I figured it wouldn't hurt to wire it up correctly. I even used different color wires!!! ( I know right! HAHA) Next was the old 48in mower deck. Yes this deck is used to cut my neighbor's 3 acre horse pasture. So the deck will not need to cut pretty, just handle large tall growth compared to a normal yard. So I welded a rebar for the bottom front to help keep it from loosing its shape. I also replaced the old worn out original blades with some gator G6 blades. (They were a huge bear to drill out the hold from 5/8 to 3/4. That metal is super tough.) I also had some wheels hanging around that I have been wanting to use for a project, so I made them fit for this one. They look and seem to work so much better than the factor rear wheels. After that came the front bumper. I got this sub compact tractor bumper for free 5 years ago that i wanted to mount on the wheel horse. Well it finally happened and now it looks great! It will protect the front of the tractor from the brush and other whatnot in the field I will be mowing, plus it looks cool. What I did was use some scrap metal, welded the bumper to it and then bolts this to the front of a mule drive. The mule drive still works as it should and the hood even opens enough for me to refuel the the mid gas tank and check the oil. Final thing I wanted to do was add a secondary fuel tank to the tractor as the center tank only last about one hour or so in heavy mowing. The field is a 5 min tractor ride from my house and i do not want to keep stopping and walking back over or riding over. I found a scrap fuel tank and welded up a bracket, bolted it under the seat back feet. Then plumbed up some hoses to a valve that is mounted on the dash. Turn it left and it turns on the center tank and turn it right it turns on the rear tank. I think it works pretty well and I was surprised it all fit behind the center tank under the dash. I fixed the oil leak at the PTO input shaft on the transmission with a new seal. I also notice the right wheel hub has a wobble to it. So I got the hub off, and use some JB weld with a key trick in the key hole. The hole was a little worn and the key wasn't sitting in perfectly. Now its all snug as a bug. What's left is the drive pulley to get here and then I can put on the PTO clutch. Then the side cover plate and right foot rest for a test drive. All should be good. Oh, and the drive pulley will be the hydro one sleaved down to 1in so I can still have faster 2nd gear. Overall I'm very please with how this project came out and I hope it will do as I want. Mow the field in heavy growth conditions. Thank you everyone for the inspiration and I hope you all have a great day!
  16. 1 point
    You'll almost definitely find something there.
  17. 1 point
    My 1st brand new vehicle was a 1991 S10 Tahoe. I was 18yrs old. Had 4.3 w/3:42 posi rear end. Did a few performance bolt ons to engine, headers, exhaust, shift kit, etc. It ran pretty good after that. Lowered trucks were the trend at that time.
  18. 1 point
    This has sat long enough. 1984 S10 short bed, 305/700R4, stock bore, mild cam, the perfect stance. By 10 am this morning, I had dug into the barn far enough to air up the tires. By noon, Rylee and I had it pressure washed. By 2:45, well…. copy_4308E088-940F-4E64-A79E-0CD621CF6DCA.mov
  19. 1 point
    Pricey maybe..but how many originals are out there for sale? How many have been restored (ruined) by a rookie with a rattle can, how many have cut hoods to accomadate a Predator motor etc. Its genuinely rare if you ask me.
  20. 1 point
    Either 7 or 8 would be fine. In fact if you ordered a 7 HP engine replacement, some were actually an 8.
  21. 1 point
    My own thoughts... keep it KOHLER powered. Adjust that one with a shorter belt maybe? Definitely insulate those S/G terminal ends from the gas tank spring. That's a serious problem.
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