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We donated the onsite build tractor to the raffle so 2 kids would get a tractor from the raffle and it was also another B-80 Wish we had known the original tractor had some minor issues and couldn't be started. Gas couldn't be added due to a tank leak from the grommet. We could've fixed that one up too! The 8 year old boy that was present got to choose and he chose the build tractor. He took off full throttle in third gear with a huge smile on his face and kept going until we couldn't see him any more.

I have had several inquiries about welding in the Reinforcement Plate I make for both the short and long frame tractors. Even though the frame on my latest C81 was undamaged, I decided to add one and weld it in. I prefer to weld the plate in from the Unidrive mating side, by adding six holes to the "F" plate, bolting the plate in place using the Unidrive holes, and plug welding the two together, Grind the welds, prime & paint - good to go. Tried something different too - the plate was powder coated prior to welding - no issues if you follow common sense... The last picture is a front view with the optional removable braces installed.

We both know @Pullstart isn't a resto guy. It'll have cragers, a diesel engine, and dual exhaust before winter!

A buddy of mine has 4 of them old 8N-9N types, can you imagine that! One man owning FOUR tractors. What a weirdo he is

June 29, 1939 Ford introduces the revolutionary Ford-Ferguson 9N tractor incorporating Harry Ferguson's three-point hitch system.

We made it home Saturday night around 10 something. Our trailer was definitely way more full on the way home than on the way there thanks to @Pullstart, @PWL216, @Achto, @WHX??, @Mike'sHorseBarn, @wallfish, @fast88pu

I bought a 1975 Pug 4x4 made by Bruce Mfg in Bruce, Wi a couple of years ago. It is articulated and twists in the middle. I have been working on it a little at a time.

1. Can anyone identify this deck? This is for a vertical shaft lawn tractor 42” Rear Discharge 2. Is it correct for a 1989 Wheel Horse 520-H (31200E02)? No 3. If not, what tractor did it originally fit? Fits 252-H and 257-H tractors 4. Would a 42” rear-discharge deck from a 312-8 be compatible with my 520-H or provide usable suspension/attachment parts? 100% compatible Welcome to RedSquare

Found some vintage tractor lights I liked and got them installed on the C-160 today. Pretty close to the ones I put on the C-120. Will probably end up getting an LED upgrade before winter. Also mounted a flag on the C-120. My neighbor volunteered me to join a 4th of July parade with him. I think we may have recruited a few more now. IMG_5367.MOV

My Wheel Horses, other tractors and small engines all live in Central Texas. 100F is a stroll in the park mid-June to mid-September. They have seen lawn mowing @ 102 most summers and do better than me on those days. As others have said clean engine fins and keep the rpm up. I give them a rub down with the leaf blower after every mowing and concentrate on the engine tins

I noticed that and thought he was taking a page out of the @Pullstart playbook!

@WHX??, @Pullstart Check this out. Great way to utilize space in an enclosed. Genius move @702854boy.

It was nice actually talking to people this year and getting some names for faces

No not all the parts are restored. That is a very hard thing to accomplish when tractors are well used and in rough shape. Get better original used parts if you need them, use the original carb if possible. @ebinmaine can help you with the carb when you get there. A lot of times when restoring these old tractors, a lot of us like to make some things better one example would be the tierods, making some using heim joints which is what I did. Another upgrade I did that was not model/year correct was put different front axle pivot plate that allows the newer mower decks and snowblowers using the attach-o-matic system to be installed. Your tractor already has that as it's a 73' which is the first year for that. In the end what we most like seeing is a tractor running and driving again and being used preferably with a Kohler engine. Don't be afraid not to keep it 100% original, especially if it's your first go at it. Your biggest hurdles in disassembly if you are taking it all the way apart will be- rear hitch pin, rear hubs, and separating the steering wheel from the steering shaft. Things to check for high wear- front axle spindles, the main pivot on the axle, tierods, check the steering block the steering wheel shaft goes to right behind the battery for cracks and wear, the f-plate of the frame to the transmission for cracks around the 4 bolts from that plate to the transmission, and the rear axles/hubs keyways. Other areas that will often have cracks is the seat pan around the bolts and the steering tower where it's bolted to the frame.

The newest addition to my team needed a transmission fluid change pronto! “1978 C-81”

I haven’t posted, because I’ve only heard say that I won. I messaged the club on FB to verify, before saying anything. @kthack657 promptly messaged me to tell me I’d won. I already left the show, and was past the Breezewood plaza when the message came through. It’ll be tucked into storage until next year. It’s not the first time I’ve thrown $100 in tickets at the raffle tractor. This year I sold a nice recoil to @rj35hunter Clay and sent that cash right to the raffle to support the club. It was also the first time I’ve ever left before the raffle was in action. I pushed hard to get home to Momma like she asked. I figured I would see how well Mrs. @Pullstart likes it as a cruiser before donating it back. She only has Frank and her Senior, but a decent little gear jammer makes sense to me.

Down here my C 160-8 laughs at 100+ degrees and that 3/4 of an acre cutting grass with a 42"d at WOT. I cut my grass Saturday, it was a 102, I do run Rotella 40 weight, their just like us they need air and good blood flow.

Yah the B was in rough shape. I bought @Mike'sHorseBarn niece tickets cause she did me a huge favor. After we went and looked at it I shoulda put her tickets in the LR tub. That's why I think Pullstart should paint it pink and give it to her. It (the LR) looked to be in decent shape. Maybe even a resto?? Course he's got nieces that might like it too.

Bob Pullstart won the Lawnranger check his comment in the group photo post

Kevin would have had that on the roof!

This Pug is supposed to be able to reach 25 mph but only reaches 8 mph, I will cover that later, it was a hand full at 8 mph. I pulled the front fiberglass off. A nice bit of reengineering. The steering gear no longer has bearings on the input shaft (which was cut and rewelding crooked) . There is a brass bushing put in the top and a chunk of steel for the lower bearing. The steering wheel and shaft are too low to get a leg under making to difficult to get in and out of. I am thinking the pitman arm got changed because it is 18 ft between inside tire tracks when driven in circles. I read somewhere (of course I can not find it now) that the radius is supposed to be 10 ft.

Hung the 36” gear drive under the 69 Raider 12 today just to get it out if the middle of the floor. The points conversion went well. This motor hasn’t been ran in decades. Before putting gas in it, I cleaned the carb which only had a little crud in the bowl, and i adjusted the valves. Should have had some breather gaskets on hand because they are hard as a brick and leaking a little, so that’s on the to do list. Need to do some wiring and both cables and change the fluid in the trans. Ordered the 6908 unicorn pulley and required idler standoff support, so the gear drive deck will work with the PT-6 pto. It shouldn’t be long until my 401 gets a well deserved break from its duties. The high back boat seat is very supportive for my lower back, but if i keep whacking my shin every time i get on it, it may have to go.

There a rumors of part list some where on the internet, but I could not find any. Since it sorta ran but did not stop. It has drum brakes in the front axel only. I started with the master cylinder. It would compress but not release. So I took the Wagner number and traced it back to 1948-57 hudson, Packards, 1079-84 Hyster and more. Off to eBay to get a reasonably priced one. After bleeding the system, I took the drums off to free up the adjusters. The shoes were worn down and the Wagner numbers led to s154 from 1949-72 Fords, Mercury's, Dodges, Plymouths.

This was my only show pickup. A set of cool looking rear wheel weights. I determined they were off a Jacobson.

Used the 520-8 (or is is a 510-8 ) to haul my Big Tex trailer across the yard and septic so I can load up brush. I keep saying I’m gonna list this tractor for sale and then I use it and like it again

Here is an example of what I did with a horse that was in similar shape as yours with the help of all all these fine gents on here.

Welcome, If that's you plan, plan on spending a fair amount of money, I'm talking many hundred of dollars and that's if you do most of the work. Is it worth it, no, not money wise, but for many of use here it's not about the money

Here's my Johnson City tx tractor show today all my wheel horse line up ready for the show

Glad you took it for a ride!

Yes, winner was given a choice between the B-80 and the @wallfish @Pullstart build. They choose the build tractor.

We even put some of the small stuff like sheet metal in the wagon to maximize efficiency

Here's what Microsoft Co-Pilot had to say on the matter. Running a Kohler K301 in 100°F Indiana heat is absolutely doable — but you’re right to think ahead. These engines are tough, but they’re air‑cooled, and extreme ambient temps shrink your margin for error. Here’s a clear, practical, Wheel‑Horse‑owner‑level guide to keep your K301 happy during a parade crawl. Quick Takeaway A clean cooling system, proper mixture, and avoiding extended low‑RPM lugging are the three biggest factors. At 100°F, the K301 will run hot — but with prep and smart operation, overheating is unlikely. What Matters Most in 100°F Heat 1. Airflow is everything Air‑cooled engines depend entirely on volume of air across the fins. Clean cylinder head fins, block fins, and blower housing Make sure the screen on the flywheel shroud is clear Verify the tinwork is complete and sealed — missing tins = hot engine Check the flywheel fan for packed debris Even a thin layer of chaff raises head temps dramatically. 2. Don’t idle through the parade This is the big one. Airflow at idle is minimal. Heat output at idle is still significant. Best parade RPM: 2,200–2,800 RPM (fast idle / light throttle) This gives: Strong airflow Good oil splash Cooler head temps No lugging Avoid: Long periods below 1,800 RPM Lugging the engine at low RPM while moving slowly 3. Mixture matters in extreme heat Hot air = less dense = leaner mixture. A slightly lean K301 will run very hot at 100°F. Check: Main jet adjustment (¼ turn richer than winter setting is common) Idle mixture (should not be lean‑stumbling) A K301 that “sounds crisp” but is actually lean will cook itself in parade conditions. 4. Oil choice helps For 100°F parade duty: Straight SAE 30 (best for hot weather) or 15W‑40 diesel oil (excellent film strength) Avoid: 10W‑30 in extreme heat — it shears down and thins out. 5. Fuel system considerations High heat + slow parade speeds = vapor lock risk. Helpful steps: Ensure fuel line is not touching the block Use a fresh fuel filter Keep the tank at least half full If your tractor has the metal line near the head, consider a temporary heat shield 6. Fan shroud and head gasket check A small head gasket leak or missing shroud screw can raise temps 20–40°F. Quick inspection: No oil mist around head No carbon tracks Shroud tight and complete 7. Take breaks if needed If the parade stops for several minutes: Shift to neutral Bring RPM up to ~2,500 Let airflow cool the head If it’s a long stop, shut down for 2–3 minutes Should you opt out? Based on what’s typical for a healthy K301: No — you can run it safely. These engines were designed for mowing in July heat at full load. A parade is actually less load, just less airflow. As long as the cooling system is clean and you avoid low‑RPM lugging, you’re fine. 📌 Extra tips specifically for parade duty Bring a small leaf blower — if you stop for a long time, blow out the engine tins Keep a thermometer gun handy; head temps under 375°F are perfectly normal If you have a side‑panel tractor, remove the side panels for the parade Avoid running with the hood open — it disrupts designed airflow patterns

Glad to hear that you made it home safe. Was happy to meet & hang out with you.

33 and 13 Joe Nelson Cedar Mn (aka BOB)

Two Kevins, doing Kevin things…

The tie rod ends have 173r or 173l on them. Most common on 1940-1962 Chevrolets like the Corvette and Belair. The rod go from the pitman arm to an arm under the seat (that swivels at the top) then the second arm goes to the back. Between the tie rods and tightening the gear, I might be able to get to 25 mph.

Of course that led to finding leaking cylinders. LH-FD18292 for the left side and a FD18293 for the right. These fit 1960-70s CJ, 1957-73 Dodge trucks some AMC cars and others. Some where for the front, others for the rear.Some rears take a different brake line size and need an adapter to work with lines that are in the Pug. I had to get my adaptor at Autozone as they had the longest one to reach the bottom. I left the parking brake parts out as there is a drive shaft brake.

Lathrop, Missouri just finished their "2026 Lathrop Antique Tractor Show" (video can be found on Youtube.) Lathrop, in northwest, Missouri, was my home town and I was one of the founding members of the club, although it wasn't nothing like it has grown into. I believe the video is about an hour long but it's much more than tractors. They have brought in a lot of different equipment and re-created a small town. I had offered my train layout to the club, (It's "L" shaped 11 feet by 22 feet) and they are interested in it but it would be had HUGE chore to move it from my basement here in southwest MO to Lathrop. Disassembly would be required and there is a bunch of wiring involved. I'm pretty sure I saw a RJ running near the end. I should attend the show some time. I recognized a small number of the folks in the video but when I return to Lathrop and my brother and I go to the restaurant for breakfast, those people, that I should recognize, are getting OLD!

I Thank You for the gift and it will always be treasured by me as I always treasure seeing you at the Wheel Horse Show! Wild Bill

The big one for me was this new project, purchased from @Ed Kennell: It fires right up, and it will about do a wheelie taking off, but it slows down pretty soon, and it seemed like the deck was causing the engine to bog, despite turning freely by hand. Also, it doesn't seem to have anything that even remotely resembles brakes. It did cut nice, for all the more cutting I got it to do. I got a hydro trans from @pfrederi, who wouldn't take anything for it, just like the the engines that @Pullstartgot. I think I'm going to see about putting that trans in the 1076.

I’m unloaded now, shy of checking out of Hotel Norman. In honor of @elcamino/wheelhorse calling me the flip flop kid, I did it with the flippy flops on! I scored a sweet front deck carrier frame from @c-series don, mine is pretty twisted up and this will be put to use. I also got some cool old tires for a 953 from @stevebo @pfrederi dropped off a couple engines to my tent and wouldn’t take a dime for them. As always Paul, you amaze me! Somebody cruised by my tent and tossed me this new key chain. I forget who, it was quick! @8ntruck Bill I grabbed that muffler from Uncle Jim for ya!

IMHO your best bet is to get the machine running and driving FIRST. Then see how it feels and what actual repairs are needed. IMHO too - get it running & driving before doing any cosmetic work. Pretty much anything on these is available - but - it can run into more money than you think really quick. Set yourself a realistic budget once it is drivable - an overbudget "not quite there yet" project can easily become a donor tractor if a better "almost there" version comes along for the right price. A word of caution - so many WH parts are physically interchangable over many years & models that what looks "original" is functional, but not restoration correct. A Franken Horse.

Besides members on here having parts for you. The common places we buy parts from are -Wheelhorsepartsandmore (they have a website) -A-ztractor (I believe they are only by calling or eBay anymore) -redoyourhorse (website for decals) -k-b horse parts (they have classifieds on this site or you can call)

Once again the hard working members of the Wheel Horse Collectors Club did an outstanding job by providing us with a great gathering place and entertainment (Wild Bill).

I will add more later.

Sorry Karl I had it, but I snagged the WHCC 250 banner.

I had some of my tractors out today for SS&S.

No Coach that's Joe Bob Nelson @joebob I wanna say he's from around the twin cities MN??? He's also 13 Saturday. Ya know what tenth look I don't see 'Fish in ther??? # 2 Saturday

Same name here too. I used some fake names when I was young. Then Mrs. K saved me and I don't need to hide any longer.

Finished and mounted receiver hitch today. Worked out great. Will flip hitch over and it will be just about perfect height for my trailers. . I had mentioned having angle iron turned differently then the one @76c12091520h Brian Badman sells but pretty sure either way will work with the hydro filter on the Eaton 1100 rear.