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Got the 72" snow blower mounted on my big tractor today. Hopefully it will not be used any time soon but it is ready. I only used this setup once last winter when the snow was too deep for my 520HC and plow to deal with. That reminds me, the 520HC and plow are also ready to go. It just needs a wash to get the dust off that accumulated from sitting in the storage building all summer.

Here is my C-175 Automatic with a Series 1 after I restored it, a little eye candy for you boys 😜

October 23, 1976, Chicago's first number one release was the single “If you leave me now” which topped the Billboard Hot 100 chart and remained there for two weeks. The song was written and sung by bass player Peter Cetera and was featured on the album ChicagoX$.

1984 and older C-175 used the series 1. A spec number of 24300 and higher will be a series 2

Having done a couple of these modules myself you can save a step if you're patient. You can get a 5/16" box end wrench under the stator to remove the screws holding the ignition module. This will save you from having to remove the stator. Clean everything well with electric motor cleaner and compressed air before reassembly. Changing the module should fix your issues.

A lot of us add a new ground wire from the battery negative terminal to one of the rectifier mounting bolts. This is better than grounding thru painted sheet metal...

@Ed Kennell I believe all 417’s came with a Series 2 and baby moons. I think some 300 series came with baby moons too? Only a true Wheel Horse connoisseur like @Handy Don would pick up on 8” wheels and 6” spindles. Some may in fact think “What is this guy talking about?” My 417-A runs a 44” two stage blower like a champ!

Yeah, I don't like balls behind me!

Interesting to see all the "sad" reactions. This isn't sad. It's good business and agricultural practice. Up here there are many farms that grow several times the pumpkins needed because it's easy. The good ones sell. The rest go right back in the ground as enrichment.

Got the two new decks cleaned up, greased, and oied. Both have good tight quiet spindles and good blades. I could not get the up side down blades of the 42RD so it's in soak mode.

The other two wires coming from the rectfier/regulator are probably white and come from the engine. Unplug them from the regulator with the engine runnIng at 2/3 throttle or better test for AC voltage AC between the two of them. Should be around 30 volts AC

Foot rest and guard are inexpensive but shipping these days makes everything expensive.

But are they doing so at the correct time? The points gap establishes the ignition timing for these engines. I have seen an engine with a good strong spark run poorly because the timing was improperly set and spark occurred slightly after top dead center. Adjusting the points using static timing solved the problem. Two little hints on finding the timing marks on the flywheel. Prior to looking for the timing marks you can remove most of the rust on the flywheel by using a wooden dowel with sandpaper wrapped over the end. With the sparkplug removed put the dowel through the timing hole and crank the engine a couple of revelations, you may need to do this several times depending on how much rust is there. The keyway on your crankshaft points up when at Top Dead Center. the marks you are looking for will be at the window around TDC so you will know you are in the correct area.

even better hint - splurge a little bit and get a *circuit breaker* type ATO style fuse at the correct amperage rating and you can drop it in the wiring using spade or bullet connectors somewhere in place of the fuse (for the glass fuses, I made up a jumper with alligator clips to run between battery + and the load side of the fuse holder) - that way you won't keep blowing fuses while you diagnose/test the system - circuit breaker just trips (it can sound like the old school "blinker flasher" devices used on older cars for turn signals) Once you have rigged one up you can stick it in your tool box and change out to different amperages to match the fused circuit you're testing...

I do similar. When I build a new wiring harness, most of the components get their own separate ground wire of correct gauge.

The seat on that C120 would sell for $ 200.00 or more at any tractor show. The only things I see missing are the right side foot rest and belt guard, you would want them for your safety. The asking price of $ 500.00 seems very reasonable to me.

Until they come up with grounding by Bluetooth, I'll still use another cable. Or, you could be a fancy hero and run it to the nut side hidden away!! Besides, it just might catch your lost 3/8 socket (no 10mm joke here)..

When the black ground wires start looking like spaghetti... it's just enough.

It can get tricky, I have 3 Onans, if you get in a bind and need pictures of where things go, don’t hesitate to ask. I will be happy to help as I can.

The slooow cooling is the key to that method.

As stupid as those mirrors look, I was having a pretty hard time turning around to see well enough when backing a boat and trailer into a very particular spot, so those mirrors would've helped. I moved the ball from the front to the back a few weeks ago for something else so I guess I just need to buy a new tractor for the "attachment" of a front tow ball. LOL

Those old eyes are still working fine Richard.

A dead battery will not charge from the engine. Charge the battery and have it load tested at an auto parts store, they will di it for free.

Yes there was a 120-8 that had a 8 speed transmission. The 120 Auto has the Sundstrand Hydro. To test the hydro Chain it to a tree and verify it will spin the tires forward and reverse. They are good workers 1-18” rear axles. From what can be seen in the picture that seat looks like it would clean in nice. Those seats are desirable.

I'll check my parts bin...

Having and not needing is always better than needing and not having....

I don't think he has that problem, every time he mows his lawn, it seems like it's always a different

I was quite ecstatic when the seller messaged me and said he found the original wheels in one of his scrap piles! Picked them up today.

I may just do a re-wire as all the safety switched have been by-passed on this machine. Lots of useless wires every where. I still need to figure out the no spark issue.

I do concur. Balls up front make for a far more pleasurable trailering experience... And mirrors on a break the number one rule of Italian motor car racing - Whatsa behind you Issa no Matta...

Scouted the property today with my BIL for bow and bought my first crossbow, with crank cocking / decocking. First season of bow... we'll see how it goes... Only doe for me, as I've used my 2 combo doe/buck tags for doe already... ok by me. I like venison...

I removed some of the stump bumps from the 42" RD. Before after The 36"SD looks OK. Still has some red paint left. Any one see why the RD didn't cut. May be the reason the 417 was put on the auction block.

Very important thing to remember in these. The electrical systems are DC. Direct. Current. Bad ground is a bad circuit. Clean the mounting points of ALL components of the charging system. The Voltage Regulator must have good clean ground.

That is correct. One caution. Don’t leave power to the coil for an extended time when it’s no being cranked, you can burn it out

I’d love to meet over a cup of coffee with the folks who put together the demystification guide. Simply excellent work.

My suggestion is to download the "demystification guide" from the electrical section of our manuals. Page 423 has the circuitry for your 416-8. Here is a cut from the manual for your spark circuit.

A blade for the 5xi models can be easily modified by moving the rear cross bar ahead 5" to fit the long frame tractors.

Say what?

Being overly prepared is a heck of a lot better than unprepared.

Think I'm ready for winter....... Girlfriend questioned if my snow removal equipment was excessive? Do I really need that many tractors to clear snow? Told her either I keep them all or she gets a shovel! 🤣 She had nothing more to say...... Aside from a couple cosmetic things on 416, especially a new seat, I'm prepared. Honestly, she knows they are mostly just for me to go out & play in the snow

Sounds like someone needs to add another Wheel Horse to their stable.

I pieced together a RM-366 deck from a few donor decks. Doubt the 754 will get used much for mowing, but I figured "why not?" The blades had previously been installed with the left and right reversed. It wasn't cutting squat - and I figured that since there were separate part numbers for left and right that might me the issue. Went ahead and touched up the cutting edges while I had them off. Mowed some strips in the vacant park lot behind my property. I had a different shell that matched the patina better, but along with the patina were a few rust holes.

Just fluid fill them. Same amount of weight without scratching the paint.

I have four blades staring at me. I can mount two onto a 520, and a C141. Also onto a Cub Cadet and an Elec-Trak. Thinking if I mount all four it won’t snow this winter.🥶 If I do push snow the 520 with a 48” blade is my first choice.

I got a plow frame out of the shed and it's leaning on a wall in the back shop. Still to nice out to be moutin snow eq.!

Rainy evening here so in garage tonight. Got the 702 ready for winter.

Finally got my widened wheels painted today. They actually look better in person than in pics.

Picked up the first batch today, just to test run the Cyclone Rake on the back of my 16 auto. Also fired up the C-160 with the Mighty Mac and turned them into powder for the garden. Photo from last year - the 16 Auto in the background wasn't ready for lawn duty yet. Replaced the C-141 in the foreground with a C160. The C-120 has a pine straw rake on it this fall to help spread the ground up leaves prior to my neighbor tilling them in with his B-100.

I would love to do that but I still need to grind up leaves as they fall. Last year I was grinding them in the snow, I hope the trees drop them earlier this year but some are still green.

Set the mowing deck low and mowed the lawn for the last time until Spring. Then drove it for another 10 minutes until the gas tank emptied. Pulled the battery and shelved it. Went thru and thoroughly cleaned everything and put it in storage.