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953 or 1054 Go get it.

Marketplace listed.. what model? Seller asking $200.00. Hasent Ran in years, needs carb rebuild, always been in same family ad states.

Did some more today exhaust and fuel line and throttle is hooked up that's all done now time to put the battery in and put some fuel in and see if this old commando will come to life

The biggest troublemaker you’ll probably ever have to deal with, watches you from the mirror every mornin’.

3 speed, hydraulic lift, lots of ground clearance, super heavy duty frame and front axle. What’s not to love?

We see a lot of questions regarding faltering engines under load. Heat sink problems. Testing procedures for ignitions. These two videos show some very good information about the subject. The first one, about the spark plug gaps, gets particularly intuitive around the halfway point.

Fl tractor. This will make a good project for you. Take your time with it. Enjoy it when it is done.

If the cable goes slack when the hitch is lowered, the cable needs to be shortened until it has tension thru the complete range of lift.

Little bit of a flea market haul from the show too.

or get a lower PTO hoop holder (or make one) and use spacers like this

If I remember correctly the Onan engines Wheel Horse/Toro used have a charging system rated at 20 amps. Most of the Kohler's have a 15 amp system. You can use a larger rated regulator on a smaller system but not a smaller regulator on a larger system.

Filter should be between the pump and tank.

There really isn't much of a lobe to begin with but for the sake of discussion: My C160 would be a beast to get the carb primed if I ran out of gas. so I thought the pump was bad and replaced it. Couldn't get any gas to the carb at all. I unbolted it with the lines connected and could get it to pump like crazy by hand. Tried installing it like 10 times with no luck. Went electric and never looked back.

Sorry no pics Eric, but I have eliminated this engine mounting design that depends on four rubber sponges and the drive and PTO belt tension to position the engine. Some I replaced the rubbers with solid spacers and some I cut the angled wings off the cradle plate, removed the tapered bars and bolted the plate directly to the frame with the correct spacers to put the engine at the correct height. All worked well and IMO had the same or less vibration than the rubber mounts. Here is a link to my Low Rider build where I altered the cradle plate to a solid mount. Page #2 shows the mods.

There was a small piece of the cam friction welded to the fuel pump. I’d never seen it before either.

I'm pretty frugal and opted to use 1/2" x 1 1/2".

Replace with solid. I'm not sure who sells them. I've seen pics of someone on here that showed a home shop made set. @Ed Kennell ?? Maybe... Seconded

Wheel Horse Parts and more sells nice machined solid ones Or you can work out a stack of appropriate sized washers.

Welcome! Before purchasing a replacement - take the time to remove the mounting fasteners, CLEAN all involved - the mounting on the tractor, the back & front mount areas of the rectifier & the fasteners. Why?? The rectified REQUIRES a good ground to work properly. Do that & reassemble - then fire up the tractor to verify battery voltage. Many of us run a dedicated ground wire to the rectifier for that purpose. The failure mode takes place over time as the aluminum oxidized & the other players corrode.... Replacement part needs to be able to deal with amperage of the charging system. Make sure the pin-out & physical connector are the same.....

You payed for a "new one". I know its a pain, but don't accept less that what you paid for.

Agreed... MAYBE the damage was there prior to shipment, maybe not.... Will it "flow"? YES - but at a reduced capacity. Not exactly what you want... BUT... if the seller insists that it was undamaged prior to shipment AND blames the carrier... that is on HIM TOO. Poor packaging of fragile items is a risk at best. I double box any questionacle item before shipping... Inside box packed with wadding or bubble wrap to immobize the part, more packing between the boxes. Looks to have been shipped via FedEx...... was the item insured?? If so, remind him he will be compensated upon its return IF adequately insured.... The seller seens to be a legitamite automotive supplier... ask for a pre-paid RGA (Return Goods Authorization) BEFORE sending it back. That puts the shipping cost on him. You have the right to dispute the sale thru EBAY - did you check the seller's rating brfore purchasing?? If less than 96% - that's on YOU. My

What do you call cattle wearing wheeled shoes? Rolling stock.

Bought my wife a Bull Dog for her birthday. She made me take it back. Said it barked funny.

September 13, 1969 "Scooby-Doo Where are You" by Hanna-Barbera debuts on CBS in the US.

Edy had a cabinet in the garage that she wanted gone. I didn’t need to use the Roper to move it but I wanted to.😁😁😁 I transported it to the workshop and installed it in a corner of my office.

Did some work on the commando today the wiring is done gas tank fuel line installed did some work to the fender pan and mounted the seat on have couple more things to do and should be ready to bring it back to life as anybody used LED headlight bulbs instead of the 1156 bulbs

It was a great show even if the starter went out of the raider 1/2 through the day! Didn’t get enough pictures now that I looked

@WHX?? dry camping is no hookups. We take a generator and our own water. WARNING You're gonna see some of my off brand stuff lol IMG_20260910_101038.heic

Why doesn’t the hulks pants fall off when he transforms? because the transformation alters is “genes”.

I'm not sure, but I don't think you do it with this:

Ok so now I gotta ask ... what the hell is "dry camping"? I don't think @Achto would like not having the Captain in camp...

I agree with that Achto 100%. . I just did the 1056 with that dash board. Much better. Back in the day they made good push / pull cables. Today,s are junk.

A few more pictures, a lot more messing with the steering and getting the right clearance and Ackerman angle. Chain out from front axle Another test run - and a photogenic picture

Starting to look like a engine

..... and steering wheel

Idle thoughts on this subject: This probably depends on where the weld is on the frame. Welds are stress concentration features. They create hard spots, notches, and divots. If the weld is located in a low stress area of the frame, probably no problems. Truck frames are subjected to unpridictable, varying, and cyclic loads - the sort of loading condition that fatigue cracks can grow in. If the weld is located in a high stress area on the frame, it could provide a spot for a fatigue crack to start. Grinding the weld smooth and/or shot peening it will reduce the chances of a crack initiation site. I've never done any analysis work on frames, so I don't know where the high stress areas are. I'll guess that they are at the attachment points for the suspension and maybe at the attachment points for the cross members. A lot of long box pickup frames have been cut down into short box frames. Maybe something to learn from this process?

Today was another shining example that there are still decent people in this world. While setting for lunch I got a phonecall from Rick Libby. Rear axle done. Truck ready to be picked up so I can install rear lamps and splash guards along with whatever other State Inspection work I find it needs. I said, "Do you have the dollar amount?" Now - let's go over what was done. A BUNCH of cleaning and rust removal. ALL NEW PARTS installed in the entire axle. Center carrier. Change from open Ford to Auburn posi. New bearings pressed in. New ring and pinion. All special tools and knowledge type work. Also: New brakes including all hardware. New U joints. Transfer case rear seal. We have no actual information on how much time he put in. I'm 99% sure it was at LEAST 8 to 10 hours over the 4 weeks he had the truck. Honestly... could be double that. Easy! I was seriously figuring on a minimum count of 20 hours. He billed me for FOUR hours. I had to ask twice if he was OK with that. Turns out.... he was using my old Ford as therapy. Nostalgia. Enjoyment. So it's scheduled to be towed back up here tomorrow morning. Next steps will be rear lights and swapping the alternator type. This diagram is for my own notes.

Went to see Libby's Service Station where my truck is... Very positive so far. He's using it as a spare time project in between other things, which is exactly what I hoped he would do. Rick has laid out and organized all the parts, and has some of the initial assembly done. He says it all looks OK so far without having attempted actual installation. I'm bringing them a full set of rear brake shoes, springs, and hardware Monday afternoon. We both figured he might as well go right from wheel to wheel with ALL new parts.

This evening we finished cleaning the cable ends. I built a new positive cable from solenoid to starter. Degreased the starter and engine block where the cables attach. Installed a NOS Cole Hersee solenoid from my parts department. Added a new battery hold down. Used a primer bulb to dump a little gasoline into the carburetor bowl through the upper vent. At that point the ole beast started right up.... and the alternator started smoking. No worries there. I knew that was a high probability. I have a new HD alternator set aside with a new wiring harness. The truck is setting in the front yard waiting to be towed to the repair shop tomorrow.

You might wanna bungee that tank somewhere.

Topped of the brake fluid and added about 4 gallons of non ethanol fuel. Attempted to start but the starter solenoid is corroded. I removed the wires and removed the solenoid from the inner fender. Tomorrow I'll finish wire brushing the wires and terminals to see if I can get a better connection.

Here's another. The PO converted to a Manual Choke.

If you’re going for the original look and are staying with the steel wheels, I have period correct hub caps for your truck that came off my F-350 SRW they are basically like new.

All cleaned out. Next step is to pull the whole thing backwards a few feet for better front half access and get the rollers out. Reinstall the air cleaner and try to start it.

We spent some time rearranging the barn workshop yesterday so we could spend some time these next few days getting back on the truck build. First task will be removing the bed and rear fuel tank for better access to the rear axle. The axle is being rebuilt with ALL new internal parts including Yukon yoke, Motive ring & pinion, and an Auburn Gear Company Limited Slip Differential. Stock 4:10 ratio. Of course all new bearings and seals. New brake shoes. The bed will be sold so I can build my own red oak & steel flatbed. The rear tank I'm not sure yet. I really don't need it more than once a year, if that. Any fuel left in it could easily go stale. Big issue there is it needs a distribution valve which I'd rather not buy. @87 416-8 horse Here's the list of performance parts i have purchased for the engine: Intake manifold. Clifford Performance single plane. Carburetor. Carter AFB (Aluminum Four Bore) 4bbl 500 CFM mechanical secondaries. Vacuum secondary carbs are easier to drive but I love having the control over exactly how much I open the venturies. I might put an extra spring on the secondary set so I can feel them detent to open. Exhaust. Ford original EFI split manifolds. Walker front pipe. 2 into 1. I went with a single exhaust partially for ease of exhaust assembly on a 4WD and also because I like the tone. Muffler to be determined. I'll go deep tone and not drag racer loud. Likely a chambered design similar to a Flowmaster 40. No catalytic converter needed here. Distributor. Custom built HEI done by Bill Ambler racing distributors specific for my engine. Camshaft. Jerry Cantrell at Schneider Cams made up a special Custom grind. Similar to: Part #13918-08. With stock rockers: Int. duration 208° at 050. .464 valve lift. Exh. duration 214° at 050. .472 valve lift. If/when I switched to a higher ratio rockers the lift would be: Int. .493 Exh. .502 Duration at .050 would also increase just a tiny smidgen. 108⁰ lobe separation angle. I kept LSA tight mostly for the raucous lumpy idle. A bonus of that is more low/midrange torque. With all the changes above this engine should pull like a train up to about 4500 RPM. Higher with a better cylinder head. I have a BUNCH of other things to put on. Some are repairs. Some are finishes I knew it needed. Some are accessories or changes specific to my desires. It'll be a constant work in progress for several years, forever really. Other changes for the future will be Four new leaf springs. Stock rears. 4"+ lift fronts to level the truck.

Hey guys. Finally got around to getting the winter crew all set up and mower decks off. On the left is a 312-8 with a 4000 watt generator. Next is a C-125 auto/hydraulic lift with a 42" single stage snow-chucker. Next one is a "76" B-100 8 speed with a 42" plow. On the end is a C-85 8 speed with a 42" plow that my 12 year old son will use to plow this year. If ya see this crew coming down yer street ya best hide the women and children and get some hot coco going !! Mike.......bring on the snow