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Hey folks , I haven't been as active here as I once was ( apologies ) . I have been busy . This happened to me this week and I remembered there are "birders" on this forum . Last Wednesday while at work , myself and two coworkers were just shooting the breeze out in our drop lot when something caught our eyes . It was a seemingly injured bird hopping along the fence line. Birds of prey are very common in the city . They hunt the pigeons that nest nearby. We decided to call the SPCA and they forwarded us to the DEC. About 1/2 hour later a woman from the DEC shows up and she can't catch him. My 2 coworkers had left and I decided to help her as she was about to give up . She threw a blanket to me over the fence and told me what to do . I managed to toss the blanket over him and get ahold of both his feet .I carried the bundled injured little guy over to her Jeep and slid it into a pet carrier. He looked in pretty rough shape to my untrained eye . I gave the woman my info and asked if she would keep me updated. This afternoon I get a call . The bird was taken to our SPCA and is doing "quite well". She sent me a pic . He's about a 1 year old Coopers Hawk. He's gorgeous.

January 10, 1899, The invention of the dry cell battery and miniature incandescent electric light bulbs made the first battery-powered flashlights possible. Patented by David Misell the first flashlight was powered by “D” batteries laid front to back in a paper tube with the light bulb and a rough brass reflector at the end. The company donated some of these devices to the New York City police, who responded well to them. Keep shining a beam of light into the history of this bright idea. If a flashlight malfunctions it is known as a @Sparky

I've always just used crosbys whenever I use wire rope but it just isn't a 'clean' look so a couple days ago I picked up a swaging tool and some ferrels. It never even crossed my mind until I saw this thread this morning. Just might do it, huh guys? I've always done whatever seemed appropriate at the time when it comes to the larger wire terminals. I'm thinking that if this can crimp wire cable ferrels with the strength they do it will be fine on electrical connectors. I've got some speer-menting to do.

as some of you may know ri702bill makes an 'F' plate reinforcement kit with gussets. top notch machining, welding and fitment. pricey? the way i look at it when your 'F' plate cracks and it will eventually if you plow how many hours does it take to strip the tractor and repair? what is your time worth? to me his kit is a bargain because it addresses a flaw in the wheelhorse design. it was easy to install and the 'F' plate will not crack now. by being proactive i headed off a repair that would require lot's of time and money to fix properly. .

Small improvement: I made a very simple 'thrust bearing' for the end of the puller's center bolt. I bored a 5/16"+ hole in the end of the 3/4-16 grade 8 center bolt, squared off the end of the bolt, cut the threads off of a partially-threaded grade 8 5/16 bolt, and added two 5/16 SAE washers. If I wanted to get fancier, I could have cut a groove in the shank of the 5/16 bolt for a small O-ring to retain it in the center bolt, but I figure enough is enough. A dab of grease will hold the 5/16" bolt in the end of the center bolt while the puller is being set up, and a bit of grease or anti-seize or other EP lube (ZX1?) on and between the washers would be a good idea when using the puller.

the 520 hc is either 88-89 model -- has various features different than the H -- we located 2 a few years ago - one we sold, the other went to my grandson after we did some cleanup, rehab, fresh paint some places, plus maintenance on it - carb, manifold gasket, fuel pump etc - he uses to mow and plow snow plus decided to drive to school one day - typical of onans they need some TLC but it is an impressivce machine. Tractordata.com or toro online has some info - i have also attached some photos of the WH brochure from 1989 that includes the HC model - eg: the HC was 1.1 mph faster top speed than the H -- enjoy, Bill

Exhaust covers and air deflector ready to be installed. Engine ready for exhaust covers to be installed. Right exhaust cover tucked under side cover as it was originally. Right engine lifting lug loosely bolted through exhaust and side covers. Both lifting lug bolts have never seize applied to threads. Left engine lifting lug loosely bolted through exhaust and side covers. Note the exhaust cover is on top of the side cover on this side. Both engine lifting lugs loosely bolted through exhaust and side covers. Air deflector sat on muffler and loosely bolted to exhaust covers. Chrome muffler cover attached loosely with the two center screws. Chrome muffler cover attached to muffler with all 6 screws, this also firmly attaches the air deflector to the muffler. Note, all screws have never seize on the threads. Air deflector bolts tightened making sure that there is no contact between the exhaust covers and the intake manifold. Exhaust covers and air deflector installed.

People simply don't learn / understand that regardless of what form it takes, you can't get energy for "free". All energy transforms and comes at a great cost. Dams are but one example. Pick your poison. It is remarkable how many times I have discussed EVs with people who think that they are completely emissions free. No understanding of how electricity is made and transmitted. Same with wind, thermal, etc. I'm not anti EV - I love my little A-60 ...! But it ain't "green". And I don't mean JD green...

Battery showed up today

The hydro gearing on a HC is 22 to 44 reduction is 2 to 1. The 520-H is 20 to 46 reduction is 2.3 to 1.

I have always considered that the earth's rotation was kind of like a car/truck tire. When out of balance you feel it and compensate with strategic weights distribution. Earthquakes and plate shifts plus vvolcanic events seem to be moving the earth's "wheel weights". Pole shift, that's a good point too. Guess I'd best be really careful next time I drive my Social Security check to bank, HA!

Thank you for the battery cable link. The controller charges when off the throttle coasting which won’t be much on a tractor. The battery came with a charger you can mount onboard or offboard.

Yah you don't wanna know Sylvia. Curiosity got the best of me and apparently they are used for high end performance golf carts and other apps probably including EVs. When I was told $$$$$.$$ for replacement batteries for her Prius I know why now.

Yes, just pump it a few times and you will see the fuel filter fill up then you can start the tractor. It should start quickly at this point. You can then remove it and install the regular fuel cap. And as a bonus, you only need one so long as all your tractors use the same fuel cap.

I built a hub puller a couple of weeks ago, which worked great (see below), but I thought I could improve upon it, so I fabbed up a new version, which has two advantages over the first one: It has a cavity for the hub spigot, so it can be bolted flat against the hub flange, which can add some rigidity to the flange, and it can be used with hubs that have been retrofitted with studs, as well as those that are still using lug bolts. Mine still has lug bolts, but I used a separate set of bolts and washers with the puller, rather than the lug bolts, in order to prevent any damage to the puller plate or to the tapered part of the lug bolts. The center bolt is longer than it needs to be, but that's what I had on hand. I put a dab of anti-seize on the center bolt threads. Previous version of hub puller: New version: Back of puller (I dressed the weld a bit, just for the heck of it): Front of puller:

They are cool birds ... used to have a couple around here and they did a good job of keeping black birds from raiding my sputzy feeders.

@Blue Chips your work is nothing short of impressive!

Well if you heavy weights wouldn't bottom them out ...

Agreed 100%! Did the same thing on my last tractor! Got mine on the Jungle site.

What, you don't attach it to a dedicated "Mule" engine to set the mix screws while running too?? You hack!!!!!

Santa Claus dropped this set off for me, but I haven't had a chance to use it yet. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FD2MGBZV/?coliid=I2OHFXC6N18XC2&colid=E9BKT8EPBLKD&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I’m not opposed to either the pincer or hammer style, but I’ve gone to the soldered on style of lug for the relatively few times I need to make new heavy cables. And, by the way, keep an eye out at tag and garage sales for jumper cables. A good set (heavy, flexible, stranded copper wire) can yield some great battery/starter cables.

So as may of you know in September I bought a 1257. We fully rebuilt the transmission. I got a new ignition switch a few weeks ago and put that in. Then we got snow so it got pushed to the back. Today we finally brought it back in. Cleaned the points and it fired right up. More to come later today. IMG_1453.mov

Well said Jim. Today around 70% of the US electricity is produced by steam turbines that are fired by gas, oil, coal, and nuclear. Solar, wind, and hydro share the production of the other 30%. These steam turbines can not be turned on and off to meet power demands. When I joined the Allis Chalmers Hydro Turbine Division in 1964 most of my work involved developing reversible pump turbines that would become the battery for these steam turbines. These machines would pump water to an upper reservoir during weekends and nighttime hours when power demands were low and drop the water generating electricity during weekday daylight hours when demand was high. I spent thousands of hours in the '60s and '70s developing these pump turbines in the model test lab. They included TVAs Raccoon Mt., Californias Oroville, Duke Energy Bad Creek. And after spending millions Con Eds proposed Cornwall project that was stopped by environmental concerns mainly about the migration of the striped bass. We have a local proposed Cuffs Run pump turbine project that has been delayed for years due to environmental concerns. The first 25 years of my work in hydro was developing efficient high HP turbines that were cavitation free. The last 20 years had the same goals but also much time and dollars were spent addressing the environmental problems. We spent a lot of time with the US Army Corp of Engineers developing fish ladders, fish bypass systems, and fully spherical gap free Kaplan runners for the Bonneville project on the Columbia river. All these efforts were to improve the salmon migration and reduce injuries. Also worked with TVA to develop the first Francis runner that naturally injected air thru the discharge edges of the turbine. This was done for the Norris Dam project in Tennessee. This greatly improved the DOL (dissolved oxygen level) of the downstream water and eliminated the cost of air compressors. Also developed self-lubricating bushings to replace all grease and oil lubricated bearings. IMO, the long-term answer for the all-electric movement will be Nuclear fired steam turbines (TMI is coming back online) with Pump / Turbine storage batteries. The nuke waste will probably be given a one-way ticket on a disposable ship to a distant black hole.

All: Inspired by the lengthy thread started by @Blue Chips, and not desiring to hijack it..... Several folks showed versions of Hub Pullers of their own design. Others commented that they should fabricate more and sell them. The common consensus was that there was not enough "Meat on the Bone" to do so and still cover expenses, never mind generate a healthy profit.... I recently posted about machining a C Series front axle to receive Flanged and Straight Bushings. I have offered this service for over 5 years at a flat shop fee of $100. Let's break down what you get for your crisp Benjamin..... The terms are as follows: You supply a rebuildable axle and spindles. An axle with holes wallowed out more than 1/16" will require a different one be supplied. Spindles with moderate wear can be welded up & recut. You purchase the six Bushings / Thrust Washers of your choice first. Shipping the axle assembly both ways is on you. There are three different setups required to renew the axle; Center Pivot, Right Spindle Bore, and Left Spindle Bore. The last two are referenced off the finished Pivot... Fixturing the axle casting is tedious. Most of the machined reference surfaces are either worn or being cut. About as adventuresome as trying to clamp down a Fire Axe. Each setup required about an hour to define the original centerline, clamp in at least 3 places and recheck. THEN you turn on the Milling Machine. And remember you need to mill the underside of the spindle bosses to allow room for the thrust flange so the upper Snap ring fits... All told, complete machining and assembly requires 4 to 5 hours. I still need to pay the Electric Bill for the lights & 2HP Miller. Ditto, I buy any expendable tooling (drills, reamers, new grease fittings, steel shims). And the filler rod, shield gas and electric to TIG weld the worn spindles.. As mentioned, I get a flat $100.... for 4 or more hours of Shop Time. My Electric Bill has close to doubled in 5 years without me adjusting the price. To put it in real world perspective - The Machine Shop where I last worked charged $120 PER HOUR. That is for setup and cutting time, or time on the phone if a problem with the supplied parts comes up. At 2019 prices. So???

Keep us posted on what you come up with. This one's in the shop now for multiple hydraulic leaks. Maybe try and clean up some hose mess. I think it was @Handy Don was asking about hard lines once and at the time I thought he was nutz. He ain't lookin too crazy now. Also fuel delivery issues including either electric pump or your route.

Enough for the seal and a bit extra. Seals after assembly...make sure yo cover the key way with some electrical tape to protect the seal

I ran into DJ this morning, and he even bought me lunch and a coffee! Thanks @hcminis, it was great to run into a familiar face after a 4 hour drive for some car parts!

Dry-fitting assembly continues to check for assembly issues. I had to put all the pieces together, just sitting on top of each other just for some instant gratification.🤣

“HCs” all had swept axles, but not reduction steering. The faster speed came from a slightly higher final gear ratio in the transaxle--the Eaton was the usual 1100.

You just had to go there.

hey hey hey... I represent that... Now that you say that though, it is nice not needing supplemental weights for plowing...

everything said above. plus, the 520HC has a couple less dash guages i believe

I think they all had it. That was the first model to use the swept axle, heavy duty front end. The 520-H came with it after 1990.

A buddy who is a scrapper called about this hood he picked up with some other scrap metal. Thankfully he called to see if we wanted it. I don't have a use for it but couldn't see letting it get crushed. Pretty straight, no latch or wiring.

They had a larger air filter and the seat mount went up under the console plate to catch a second screw. The later 520H had the same seat mount. The HC models weren't as fancy using less chrome.

Thats my son and I in January of 2008 (he’s 30 now). We had matching BlackHood’s

I have the same cab and snowblower, a squeeze bulb or an electric pump would be a pain. Of course I could eliminate the rear lift on that tractor but I hate to do that in case I need to change the duties of it. I did see on here that someone attached a squeeze bulb to the gas cap and pumped air in to push the gas, that may be my answer.

With rear lift real difficult especially if one goes by the gospel they work best closest to the tank. I even looked for one that mount inside the left side cover but only a inch there. No real room for that with a cab on unless it goes inside the cab somehow. I guess there would be room inside for it.

Good to have friends in low places

Ahhh the nut cracker suit... I just always ground off that lilttle flare & soldered & shrink with no issues so far. If I need a nice set for a cherry resto I just put in a job order at Dan's work. Trolling motor wire works good too... very flexible. They say many small conductors carry current better as the electron flow is greatest on the perimeter of the conductor.

All the same reasons why I don't charge for rebuilding a carburetor. By the time I unpack, disassemble, and begin to clean the largest muck off one I'm into it for a solid hour. Sometimes twice that if the shafts have to come out. Then the ultrasonic cleaner is setup and run a LOT. Sometimes 6 to 10 runs at 35 to 40 minutes each. Remove. More cleaning. A little polishing. Reassemble. Ship n it back..... My favorite small engine repair place gets around $90 an hour and they are LOW.

So far the marine-grade squeeze bulb has been working for us for priming. This thread brought back a college memory of a food service critic’s note taped in a stall in one of the classroom buildings on campus: “Flush twice. It’s a long way to the dining hall"

On thinking about it, I agree that sintered bronze might not hold up to the crush load. If it were a straight-on compressive load, it might hold up OK, but if it's between two rotating parts under a heavy load (which is a likely scenario), it would be more likely to fail, particularly with repeated use. Sintered 863 iron-copper might hold up better than sintered bronze, but as you mentioned, I think a couple of grade 8 flat washers with a dab of friction-reducing compound would work fine. I haven't used ZX1, and they seem pretty tight-lipped about what kind of EP additive(s) are used in it. I have a variety of anti-seize compounds containing EP additives like PFPE/PTFE (Krytox grease), graphite, MOS2, suspended metals (Zn, Cu), lithium, etc., but I think that almost any kind of anti-seize compound or EP grease would be adequate, as long as it results in slippage between the washers rather than against the hub or the end of the puller's center bolt. I'm generally of that opinion as well, as there is a strong tendency (with occasional exceptions due to marketing hype) to get what you pay for. I rarely buy a cheap tool, but I do make an occasional exception if I see something that gives unusually good value for the money, and the 'real' thing is beyond my budget. I think that bolting the puller plate tightly against the flange helps rigidize and strengthen the flange, but it certainly doesn't hurt to spread the load out even more by backing it with thick washers, as you and @squonk said.

I made a similar one that I considered marketing but the material cost and hours were high and I doubt that it would sell for the price I would need.

Just don't get you "Hooby Dooby " caught in it!

We have ( blink ) Which are hard wired. Power supply plugs in two standard outlet. Then the low voltage class 2 wiring goes out to the cameras. We were doing battery at first but the do Not last very long.

Prowling around somewhere or another I saw this seat mentioned. Looked like something I wanted to try so I bought one. Got it in the mail yesterday and I like it so much I ordered two more. At or just below freezing in the shop and the material feels reasonably soft and supple. Will it last? I have no idea. We will see what it does at 0° or below. On a low back versus high back seat I could go either way as far as looks. For a practical nature however, I prefer a low back seat. Two reasons: 1. It's easier for me to get on and off the tractor without the seat back being in the way. 2. I've said it before and I'll repeat it here. Your entire muscle and bone and tendon structure is literally, use it or lose it. One of the biggest reasons, if not THE biggest reason, that most of us experience injuries is because we have failed over the years to use our people chassis correctly. Engage. Your. Core. Muscles. As often as possible. I'm talking as close to 100% of the time as possible. Yes it takes training. Just do it. That's another reason why I prefer a low back seat. It forces me to use my core muscles to hold my body upright while driving. Here's some pics. This particular one I got off of Wally World but it looks like they're available from multiple sources. It was just under $54 shipped.

Funny I just added a set to the 12 no name.