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Nobody can deny the ease of accessibility to the rock shaft on the early C-Series for changing from the lift bar for the plow to the lift chain for the mower deck. The general simplicity of all the C-Series makes them a good choice. More complicated electronically but I like them are the 400 series with the M-series Kohler 417,418 and 420. The GT-Series Work Horse are good too but only the GT-1800,GT-1848 came with hydraulic lift. Then there’s the……..wait a minute, who am I kidding? I like pretty much all Wheel Horse Tractors, just some more than others!!

Just picked this up today. New to me C161 twin automatic. It’s going to be designated lawn mower as my 11hp struggles on hills. The engine was swapped to a 18hp Briggs. It needs a carb clean and adjustment. I’m going to order a decal kit as the hood reads “twin eight speed” but it’s a hydro. I’m an huge fan of the black hoods on these. What does everyone else think on the 161s? Also the rear fender looks like it’s swapped off a 520 or similar unit. Anyone know where I can find an original metal fender for it? Or just wait till a parts unit comes up for sale.

July 8,1969, A battalion of the U.S. 9th Infantry Division leaves Saigon in the initial withdrawal of U.S. troops. The 814 soldiers were the first of 25,000 troops that were withdrawn in the first stage of the U.S. disengagement from the Vietnam War. There would be 14 more increments in the withdrawal, but the last U.S. troops did not leave until after the Paris Peace Accords were signed in January 1973.

As with any purchase of previously owned equipment, the key is to find one that is used, not used up....

So my oldest “kid” just closed on her first house. Nice property, about 1/2 acre, decent sized gravel driveway. The previous owners are leaving them a JD L110 with some minor issues that will allow them to mow grass the rest of the season but is not the right solution. They need a proper tractor. I’ve already decided I want to find/put a WH together for them…..or course this happens just weeks after the big show…DOH! Anyway, son in law is mechanically capable (daughter, not so much) but I’m close enough to help with the learning curve. Here are my thoughts, please feel free to add suggestions or ideas. i think I’d like to find them a single cylinder tractor with a hydro trans and preferably hydraulic lift as well. Something like a 314H or similar. 42” or 48” deck would get the job done. Worst case, I could slap my old 36” RD on it. Also thinking a plow setup for winter. I think that would be preferred over a snow blower due to the gravel. Son in law is a chef, and they have had nice gardens at their previous places. If it works out, I wouldn’t be surprised if they would be plowing out a decent garden in a year or two. I was thinking this setup would give them the biggest flexibility with the least complexity. not a help/wanted ad, just looking for input from anyone who has done something similar for someone

Yes I have seen it and Yes you may be overthinking it. Any new belt has to "break in" to the pulley. I generally buy the blue Husky ones from TSC and I always buy one either side and run the one that fits the best. Being careful not to run them in as the ones that don't fit get taken back. Also any new belt will leave some "belt dust" from run in. Blue dust in the case of Huskies.

Most people only sized belts based on width, i.e. 1/2, 5/8, etc., and length. There is also another measurement to consider, the groove angle. That angle on the belt will dictate how well it fits into the groove on the pulley and whether or not it will give long life. Another is the belt material, the cheaper belts will wear out faster due to inferior belt material.

Today I got a couple things done. After mowing the Fire Station’s, my lawn and weedwacking both, I got working on small stuff. First, the C -141’s steering wheel was missing the center cap. So I made one up with a scrap of 1/8 inch galvanized sheetmetal. With a big washer for a spacer, a deck screw, and some RTV silicone, voila, it’s covered up now. I also removed the brass adjustment collar, that was under the plastic knob, when it was on the 42” RD mule drive, before I had it. I was getting tired of using vice grips to spin the adjustment rod to tighten the belt. I’ll tackle the replacement tomorrow. I have to also look at the deck too as it’s shredding the PTO belt. Hopefully, more progress tomorrow.

Dont you get to feeling special I got one of them to…..

Someday me and the warden will afford a nice piece of land to enjoy and I’ll be out there with a smile just “sickling” around and pretending not to hear her yelling to me to come inside.

If you get to thinking someone that needs should have it I will gladly come and get it if you will split the fuel bill with me

The exact issue when replacing the two 3/8" wide captured drive belts on a 1960's gear drive deck. Older Chrysler product cars had a matched set for the AC compressor - not exactly inexpensive...

and to the

One thing I have learned is of all the things you can buy/order online nowadays belts is not one of them. Guaranteed it's going to be like the proverbial box of chocolates. I have a wall of them to prove this. I suspect it's due to what EB said coupled with someone stuffing the wrong size into your box. Some even the belt just labeled wrong. I also generally don't go by part numbers Just the belt length and type. (3L, 4L, 5L) etc. One (ok a couple) of the files I lean on heavily when replacing a belt. Get the WH part number and cross to length. Then go to farm & barn, power center, big box or where ever and shop on length. Belts_Mower_spindle_and_drive_belt_charts.pdf WH LENGTH and WIDTH BELT LIST.txt

I have a Troy Bilt Horse with a 7 hp Kohler. I don"t know but would there may be a detent ball and spring to locate the shift shaft but never had any trouble with my unit. Very well built and heavy unit. I looked up a diagram and yes looks like a simple spring and detent ball, similar idea to our high low shifter system in the C series 8 speeds.

You're not overthinking it. This has been an industry issue for decades. Standards can vary slightly from company to company but also if they are using outside vendors to produce their products. Even amongst the top-tier manufacturers like Gates, manufacturing methods dictated that if you needed two or more belts for the same system, you had to order a MATCHED SET to guarantee proper fit.

So that’s kind of what I was thinking of doing with a thin steel cable and a carabiner to clip it to the handle bar for free wheel. If it works out the way I want maybe I’ll take the time to tear it down and fix it right. I’m hoping it works out because it’s seems to be a fairly uncommon unit.

I am not an expert on the C`s Eric and Mike. So opps.

Earlier C's have no shaker plate

@sqrlgtr Thanks for the reply. The points are around 18 for this old guy with a slight shaky hand. Do you know the # for the NGK`s I am going through it again just in case I missed something on assembly. Also I saw a little oil leaking from the head on disassembly. That could also have something to do with it. Could be a little warped. I have another head in good shape will be putting that on.

Agreed. After all, it was free... Use it to see if it fits your needs, then decide if it's a keeper worthy of further repair.

@c-series don Same for me, I have no need for one right now. I had one prior and sold it, regretted it. Couple years later I saw this one for sale and picked it up at the big show couple weeks ago. My old one was beat up so had to repaint it and replace parts. This one I just stripped apart, cleaned, wiped down and greased up with new belts.

I rebuilt the gearbox on a Pony. It doesn't have the Hi/lo. Their is a Facebook Group for those tillers. Fairley helpful group. You can source bearings, bushings, seals and gaskets individually off Ebay. no kit available that I'm aware of. They are not expensive, but the cost $$ do add up when you replace all the bearing, bushings, seals and gaskets. On the Pony their is some bearing shimming required for reassembly that there are not clear instructions about in the manual. Getting the wheels and tiller tines off can be about like getting a Wheel Horse steering wheel off. A torch heat will probable required on some part of it, so that's where the seals get destroyed. If that rope fixes the only thing wrong with it, my 2 cents is stick with the rope or maybe a small chain that you make a hook for.

Got my steering put together and drilled the holes in the f plate reinforcement plate

I have one, don’t know why ‘cause I do not have a use for one! I guess I bought it for the coolness/rarity factor!

knowing their preference as you noted - hydro tranny and lift and possible future attachment usage - plow - garden tiller etc is important ?

Thank you, sir. I did not know about the polarity. Good deal. Much appreciated.

These solenoids are not polarity sensitive, use either big terminal for the battery and the other to the starter. Likewise either small terminal can be grounded and the other one goes to the wiring harness.

I got my cracked f plate welded up today. How come you gave a frame with a cracked f plate Kevin, I want a refund. At least it gave me some welding practice.

There fixed that for ya...

The search is now over! I have finally found a 42” mid mount grader blade for my 1257 after searching for about 8 months.