Leaderboard

I'm the 2nd owner. Original fellow bought it in his 60's and sold it when he could no longer drive. I went to local dealer and they printed out their repair and maintenance history of it. I've had to replace several of the small sensors and the like. Engine and transmission are original and other than the seals we replaced last winter haven't been messed with. It's a rust free truck and I do my best to keep it that way. I've owned it ten or twelve years.

...but, Took a little road trip today. Left south Missouri to go to the farm in north Missouri to transport a piece of equipment back home. 73 year old me in a 34 year old GMC K2500 with 237,000 miles on it pulling a tandem axle trailer. 368 miles and some six hours of driving. While at the farm I got to ride around and see the goings on. If you all remember, there's a power line crossing the farm from a gas turbine generator being built a couple of farms behind ours. 350 ci (5.7) TBI engine oil pressure held a 35 psi, the engine coolant ran ~195 degrees and the 4l80 automatic transmission was between 180 to 195 degrees. Pretty good considering it was sunny and 95 degrees with heat index of 105. Air conditioner blowing cold and Boots Randolph and Flatt and Scruggs bluegrass playing on the original factory cassette payer. Life can't get much better! The picture below is some of the power line poles being installed. Cement foundations are about 6 feet in diameter and 33 feet deep. My brother said that on the bolts poured into the cement had to be withing 2 degrees of being in alignment. The pullies that they feed the 2" transmission wire through are a good 3 feet in diameter. Observations: 1)smallish SUV's pulling camping trailers 2)Stopped for gas ($3.56 per gallon) and watched a family in two vehicles park at the pumps (in the shade of course). They got out of their cars and head into the convenience store before getting fuel. It's a good thing I was leaving because it was going to be the only available pump.

As I’ve always got so much time free and so many projects, the ideas as usual keep going round in my head. I’ve plans for quite a few designs and here is the next one that’s in design…. The little 400 is waiting for a hood and a paint job, in the meantime it might be getting an upgrade. hot on the heels of Ewan’s 704, I’ve a simpler idea to add 4 wheel drive to yet another Wheel Horse 😂 out comes the parts bucket, and the scrap pile is set to with an angle grinder, a welder and lathe! first stop a peerless transaxle diff with a sprocket added Then making a bearing carrier Shiny axle case Hub bearing and the start of the steering knuckle A finished swivel and UJ carrier, need to crack on with the other side!

Today, I got the 42” RD mowing deck finished up and back on. I also tested it. It’s much quieter and goes great.

Well I went ahead and put a Farmall cub seat on my 10-8. Old seat was trashed and rotted so I had this. And I can put an aftermarket cover on it at some point.

Yep ... pool party with lots of and we'll fill it. Throw some steaks on we'll even fill it with baby ruths ...

I looked at the manual for this thing. The sensor reads just like I said. Same technology is used for boiler water level sensing. Electronics read water touching the probes through conductivity. The electric to the probes is 24 v DC at 1 amp.

Actually it’s a cool story. Pics of the truck?

I’ll agree that in this case water and electricity shouldn’t be mixed. You can “steer” the logic of your switched circuit using either normal open (NO) or normally closed (NC) relays. Valves too are available either NC or NO, so you have options there. (Edit: terminology might also use the words Direct Acting and Reverse Acting.) in the case of a valve, you may also see it listed as a Fail Close or Fail Open, meaning when the control signal goes away it will either close (fail closed) or open (fail open). Usually valve direction is chosen to give you a failsafe condition. For instance, if you lose control power you probably want the valve to reliably close and stay that way lest you overflow the pool and flood the basement. So you’d work out the logic that the valve closes if the power goes out, somebody pulls the plug, etc. The manufacturer of the automatic fill device probably has the logic planned out using whatever combination of switching (the one in the water), relay (if used), and valve actuator they’ve determined to be the best failsafe combination. They also might have selected the action of the switch to be in the direction it is to avoid false triggers due to splashes or waves from wind or swimmers. I also suspect there is some timing action going on with their control. They may require the switch to be open for X minutes before triggering the valve to open. Likewise, and to avoid rapid cycling, they may have a minimum time interval that triggers the valve to open and let water in also to avoid short cycling. These are timer relay functions. If you piece together a diy system you’ll have to work out the logic that seems the most logical and failsafe to you. A mechanical toilet valve sort of thing takes away the risk of electrical malfunction. If you do chose the electric route there is a range of marine/boating products that can be used to trigger an event. For instance a solid state automatic bilge pump switch can get you there, although the action (NO) is probably the reverse of what you’d normall be looking for. as for mixing electricity and a swimming pool, you’re on your own there especially if you source the power (or tie it in any way) to your house AC power. There are ways to achieve safe isolation, but it’s not intuitive and I would venture is not in the playbook of a typical electrician. Keep in mind that even if you were to, for instance, power your system from a battery charger or AC to DC power supply and that even if you have 12V between your DC leads there is often nothing anchoring either lead (+ or -) to a safe reference/ground. You may end up with that 12V supply floating at some dangerous potential relative to the water and the people in it. I’d probably just buy the off the shelf solution. good luck! Steve

After me and a buddy, probably ten or eleven years old, saw the movie, we were so impressed, we painted (I don't know how or what we used) our own logos on white tee shirts like a gang member. We were pretty tough little guys riding our bikes on gravel roads (because we lived out in the country.) This posting brought back memories.

Happy Birthday @CRF857, we are glad you were born.

And the missus in a bikini ...

There's your answer... @WHX?? as your pool boy... all summer... in a speedo... oh... no...

I think my check liver light would come on! I realize that right now I am in a unique situation, and can’t let the water get too low. I also travel on occasion and can’t let it go a few days.

My BIL has a fail safe system. Works every time. No electricity involved. Hose in pool. Turn on. Drink adult beverage of your choice. Turn off. Sometimes automatic stuff is way more desirable in a theoretical sense than reality...

Lots of good information here, and though I enjoy ribbing, it’s the meat and potatoes here that I was looking for! There is a lot of thoughts to chew on. One- false senses. I would build this on a timer, so it only operates between midnight and 3am, or similar. That should cut down on the waves and pump actions. Two- Toilet fill. I have thought about this often too. I could easily just build a drop in system and stick the hose on it. I have limited space in the skimmer box, and I have a feeling that when my brother in laws come over for their self proclaimed cannon ball contest, the water may have the ability to break the mechanical valve. Three - low water cut off sensor. There is a float sensor in commercial water heating that I may be able to sneak through the conduit that’s plumbed into the box. It’s small and stainless steel, and quite rigid. It runs on 24vdc logic in the water heating industry as well. That I am used to, in my previous life. Four - liability and fail safe. Self explanatory there. I don’t want to get someone hurt.

July 21, 1989, Spike Lee's iconic film Do the Right Thing premiered in the USA with a wide theatrical release sparking nationwide conversations about race and culture that continue today.

I've a groove to cut when I make the drive hub and splines...

I have bought manifolds from Ebay and modified them to use a canister muffler. They can be found pretty cheap ($30 or so). Takes a little welding to make it but they work well.

@wh500special brings up a very good point about a safe reference/ground. That didn't enter this retired mechanical engineer's mind. In Lake of the Ozarks in Mo. there are many electrified docks in that lake. Over the years there have been a few deaths and many occasions where something went wrong with the wiring or whatever was plugged into it where people got shocked. An insufficient or floating ground was the cause of most of those incidents.

I'll agree with @squonk. Probably 24v dc. That will probably run a relay that operates the valve. By the way @Pullstart, what have you got going the next couple of weeks? I've got to come see you. I'm good maybe Wednesday or Thursday this week or after Wednesday next week.

He said he’s been in the engine already. And he repainted it, it was puke color he said. Tan-ish?

I bought this property about 5 years ago now, from my in laws. Honestly, the time is running together and I am not 100% positive on that. Might be working on 6! This Allis Chalmers CA was given to my brother in law by a close family friend a long, long time ago. I’ve ruled over it since moving here, yet it has just been a grapevine home. I’ve had feelers out now for a while, maybe a year, looking for a machine to get a brush hog for, or pull a bigger plow, etc. the WD45 is powerful, but has no traction. Cleaning up the place a bit lately, I uncovered this from the vines once again and today just asked my BIL what he’s going to do with it. Well, it’s mine now, so long as it stays in the family and I don’t sell it. It has the aftermarket 3 point system, which I may end up swapping onto the WD45 but first it’ll need a real good transmission soaking. The shift rails are stuck to all forward gears, I can only access reverse. The engine oil looks full and fresh at least! My plan, once I get the pool and camper winterized and put away, is to get it INSIDE where it belongs, drain out whatever is inside the transmission, then get it soaking with any oil yep fluids I can find. I have a couple pallets of used oil and I won’t even mind just filling it up to set for the winter. I’ve filled engines to sit for a year and got them to break free, why not an old transmission to start?

It’s supposed to deflect branches or falling items (hail) better than aluminum. The salesman told me they will all transition to similar materials in the near future.

A lot of time, thought, and effort must have gone into that meticulously crafted installation, and boy, does it ever show!

Been some years since this has been built . I want to say 13-14 years ago @VinsRJ started this build . Every-time I walk past it in my garage it always amazes me the details on this machine .

JUNK MAIL!

Welcome to Redsquare, the best and friendliest forum on the net .

Okay, Thanks so much.

Your imagination is only exceeded by your skillful execution of the projects you have done. Can't wait to see this one come together.

As opposed to these I suppose

Somehow, pool & toilet do not play well in the same sentence.....

Rubber ones. Sorry couldn't help myself

will be watching as this project takes shape

Absolutely fantastic!!! You mind me asking what kind of tires you’re running on the rear?

I've been hanging my grease gun in a spot that's low on the wall and keep an old rag under it. Best compromise I guess. I’m having a good chuckle here at the inherent contradiction of wanting grease to penetrate once applied to a bearing or joint but NOT to seep out of the grease gun! Same applies to trying to constrain penetrant decanted into tiny bottles with needle nozzles or with threaded caps 😁

Awesome!! I love seeing your projects. Looking forward to seeing what you do with this one.

I took an hour drive to the south last Friday and picked up a new back blade for the driveway. The seller had lots of cool toys. Elvis Chompers loves working, but he is more thirsty than a Kohler!

Nice work. What keps the stub shaft located in the bearing sleeve? I do not see any snap rings...

Couple pics of the 1973 8 HP 4 speed we've been working on with its owner @Natejc_98 Should be ready for a test drive!

still counts indoors…😁

I did a rough measure on my 520-H the center line of crank shaft is 7 1/4" above the frame. The Vanguard is 5 1/4" using the existing 1/4" mounting plate you need to raise it 1 3/4" .to run the same belts. The crank shaft center should line up with the back side of the PTO loop hole on the mounting plate. You need to check the measurements I did it with the PTO in place.. Here is the mounting plate used on my 312-8.

Yes it will, but it will require some light fabrication to raise the PTO shaft about an inch and to mate up to the mount holes on the tractor frame. I have repowered several tractors with Vanguards ranging from 14hp though 23hp, and they are very good engines. 3 of them are in the pic below. The modifications are well worth it in my opinion, and the Vanguard engines have plenty of parts still available. Plus they sip fuel and have excellent torque for thier size. A 16hp Vanguard easily handles the hydro and a 48 inch mowing deck.