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The proper type of puller is a harmonic balancer puller. Cheap enough and if you're cheaper you can rent them at some auto parts stores. Clean out the bolt holes with a tap first!

That’s the rule here. Gotta be able to stop if you wanna go (and there is a driving test you must pass). To that end, though, I’ve put seat sliders on two of our tractors, each with ~5” of travel, which lets the “small” and the “tall” both be comfy and safe!

Got home from work and the kids wanted to play outside. After a bit my youngest decided to go to the barn because he wanted a tractor ride. He picked out the C120 and we did a few laps. Then my oldest decided she wanted to try and drive it. So I let her try but seat set up was too tall for her to fully reach the clutch and brake pedals so I grabbed the 10-8 since it’s just the one pedal and seat straight on the fender and she fit it pretty good. While she drove around I grabbed the gorilla cart and put the two youngest in that attached to the 120. Great way to end a long work day.

Overanalyzed...

I made up this crazy contraption using an old mule drive plate. I could use it on the front or back.

Well, that answers that.

I can relate Like anything made in the lands of cheapness, there are many manufacturers and different versions. That's one of the reasons why HF changes their little five or six digit part number so often. When you read the reviews or watch some of the videos about purchasing their tools, you'll see the same general model of something but it'll say to "avoid these numbers,...." Those are the different series places of manufacture.

Got me thinking now......that's dangerous! Might have extended the wheel and shaft and the wheel came up through???? I know I did not have to modify the press.

The blown Onan P220 that I parted had an awkward and stubborn flywheel. The service manual showed a simple puller with four screws through a plate and into threaded holes in the flywheel. Made it about 15 minutes. Snug then a bit more on the screws and a tap on the plate with a mallet and had the flywheel off in about 2 minutes. And yes leaving the nut on the crankshaft is critical. Bust or chip a fin and you’re done and cursing a blue streak.

No puller required Wedge the flywheel from the back against the plate but not super tight. I use 2 large screwdrivers spaced apart on each side. Loosen the nut so it's at the edge of the threads plus a tad tp protect the threads. Smack the nut with a brass hammer and viola. the flywheel is off. A piece of hardwood and any old hammer will wok if you don't have a brass hammer. I've yet to have a flywheel that didn't come off doing it this way

Thanks I have a set of the V61's on this 520 and a C160 and tri ribs on just about everything else. I like the looks and the way they perform.

All loaded up for a trip to western Massachusetts tomorrow. Two tractors for the Big Show via @wallfish. Couple mowing decks and some other variousitems for another Redsquare Supporter. Swap trade drive blab & stare out the Pilot windows for a couple days.

I had an initial kabang, followed by at least 4 more. Weird.

@76c12091520h has these pulleys and they are BETTER THAN FACTORY!!!!! ( clutch disc is better too!!!)

I use mine for weights when plowing, winch for raising / lowering my snow plow blades, and a 2" hitch to move trailers around...

Welcome! Consider doing just what CCW did - the axle sees enough loading as is. Better to mount to the frame... or... if it is for temporary use, How about an adapter to go into a front receiver hitch? I used an old rusty Mule Drive & a HFT ATV receiver. Still allows the hood to open normally.

There is nothing in those pulleys that has a high level of accuracy. Just a stamping with a bearing in the middle. I did the drill and bolt thing, just to time consuming. Now I take a grinder with a cut wheel and cut 6 slots. I started out using a chisel to bend the tabs but use the press to just push through the tabs. Pop in the new bearing and bend the tabs over. I have done at least a dozen with no problems. Just another option from an old bush mechanic.

May 8,1886, The first-ever Coca-Cola is served at Jacob's Pharmacy in Atlanta as a health tonic, originally laced with coca leaf extract. It sells slowly at first—about nine glasses a day—but soon becomes the pick-me-up of choice.

Lots of good info in this post! Nice job guys.

that is what I use. I pretty much quit beating on the shaft when I was taking the bearing plate out of an engine. The bearing was super tight on the shaft and snug as a bug in the plate. The only play was in the bearing. For all it takes to use a puller I just don't like relying on that small amount of play.

I was given a 12 ton HFT press back in 2019. The first thing that I thought was I can't wait until I have the next stuck steering wheel. So, seven years later here we are. Grandson Mason picked up a 69 Raider 12 at the show last year. Two weeks ago he brought me his steering wheel with the dash still attached. First thing we did was get the roll pin out, then cut the locking collar off from under the dash. Next I discovered that you can't get the whole assembly into the press because the gap in the apron (as they call it) is fixed and too narrow. So I removed it and replaced it with a 4x4 on either side. See picture.. Okay. One would think that this would be easy-peasy. Nope. I have been soaking this with PB Blaster now for a week. The shaft has not budged at all. The other problem is that as I add pressure, the 4x4's are compressing (denting) where they sit on the pins that are supposed to hold the steel apron. This problem is probably turning 12 tons of pressure into about 4 tons. Because I can't use heat due to the plastic steering wheel, my next step will be to cut the support that hold the two sides of the apron together, spread it apart to get the steering shaft in, then clamp it back together, to get a non-moving apron. More to follow...

If that doesn't work then buy a puller but you'll probably still need to wack the bolt.

No, I haven't tried yet and don't doubt that I can get it off but just looking for best practice to avoid any adverse outcomes. I'm pretty confident I can wedge it off with pressure and impact.

Today was some weed wacking after mowing yesterday and doing some maintenance on my 312’s 42” RD deck. Adding to the ambidextrous, how did you do in school conversation, I’m somewhat Ambidextrous. A bit more right handed than left I could read/spell very well in school. I never had a problem with that. I have had a talent for art since I was 6. I have a Batchellors degree in it. I do well enough at math to do well in the day to day stuff but nothing more. I do better now than in school with it.I have been in glasses since I was 4. I am mechanically inclined. Despite limited experience, I rebuilt a tractor from a shell in a little over 3 months. I’d say I’m a mix of things.

I have a working carb right now. I robbed a known good needle and float from another one. It will get me to the show at least. I'll see if I can find stuff there.

Moved some stuff out of the garage and took a sneak peak picture of a soon to be completed project:

I'm sorry for your loss, dogs make great companions and they leave such a hole when they're gone. Remember all the good times.

💩 I can send you the pieces if need be.

Today, I worked on pulling parts off an old mowing deck I got from @ebinmaine I also pulled the mowing deck off the 312 as it was making enough noise to drown out the tractor. The idler was bad on that deck so as luck would have it, the idler I took off the other deck was a direct match. Now to put everything back on and try it out.

I've had issues in the past with the #3 phillips for the screen on the flywheel. I've soaked these for a few days and hit them with the manual impact. Four for 4

My understanding is: The balance gears were engineered back in the 60s to quell vibrations at upper end RPMs. On the engine I personally removed the gears from, the vibration above 3400 RPM is too much for the BATTERY. I just kept the top at 3300. Yes - I do understand that the Sundstrand is rated for 3600. It doesn't mow, snow blow, or run any other implements, and I don't tax/work/stress the engine much by plowing snow. My experience and research shows me that the way I'm operating this machine is just fine. Modify YOUR machine at YOUR discretion. ALL of mine will be gear deleted.

I have a lot of different treads but no ribs...yet. Love the look.

Hmmmm. I hope the guys in the shop at work won't mind me modifying their press

Not much “horsein” around time today but did get the front wheels running straight with steering wheel on the 520H, kind a pet pev of mine, I like um straight!

The pulley from Brian is really impressive. It's not stamped tin like the original

I use small bolts ,lock washers, and nuts....cause I have tons ofem.

Set a camera up on the cat food what to see was eating it and got this ... Well the nice thing about trail cameras is this horse pic ... Moved the trail cam to the asparagus patch to see if deer were eating that ... It was what they call a bluebird day.

Yes it is.

Lots of progress over the last couple days. Got the replacement motor installed in the C175. Runs like a top. Replaced the leaking axle seal on the GT1800 and finally installed its new shoes that I’ve had settling for 2 years.