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January 19, 1883 The first electric lighting system employing overhead wires, built by Thomas Edison, begins service at Roselle, New Jersey.

Well it’s not what I did today, but this past week. Myself and another guy dug the hole for a foundation of a new house. Mostly I push material to the guy in the excavator who bales it out of the hole. Then I finish grade the bottom of the hole with the dozer +/- 2” for the masons. The hole is almost but not finished in the picture, I just snapped it after lunch one day. This is in one of the most expensive zip codes in the country. 1.9 acre lot- 7 million dollars. Spec house that will probably list for around 23 million! This whole area used to be nothing but farmland mostly potatoes and corn. From this point you used to look across approximately a mile of fields and see the ocean. Now it’s mostly houses with some occasional fields. It’s sad really.

I decided to add shallow grooves on the steering shaft to retain grease under the welded-on gear. The coiled pin in the steering wheel did not want to budge, so I had to leave the upper end assembled. I had to do some creative fixturing but added five equally spaced shallow (.030 deep) grooves inline with the root of every other tooth of the gear using a ball endmill.

For me this would depend on my plans for usage. If you plan to finish the inside then I would go with a stick built, just easier to do an inside finish. If there is no future plans to finish the inside then a pole building might be a better option. You mentioned that this would be on lake property. Is there a lake association or township that would have a say in what kind of building that you can out up? If there are a lot of trees around, then I would do a steel roof no matter what the building choice is. Shade from trees as well the leaves or pine needles that tend to build up on a shingled roof keep it from drying out. This greatly shortens the life span of the shingles. One other thought. Not sure how Michigan tax laws are but in Wisconsin a pole building with a gravel floor is not considered a permanent structure, thus the property taxes are much lower.

Well I finished the steering wheel mods today. Tomorrow will be reassembly- at least some of it. I raised the steering wheel about 2.5 inches. Might be too much but that's easily fixed if needed. So I decided to support the upper shaft with not one but two bearings. I welded a couple inches of 1 inch steel pipe on both sides of the factory bushing holder. I also placed a needle bearing in the bottom and a regular wheel bearing on top. The bearings are about 4 inches apart, which stiffens the whole column quite a bit. Not sure why the paint buggered up, but it looks good enough. Also added a grease fitting to keep those bearings slicked up. I cut the upper steering shaft and drilled it to accept an extension that was from a Toro Groundsmaster. Then I added the other half of the shaft with about 1.5 inches of separation. That raised the steering wheel the full 2.5 inches above what it was previously. Of course I needed to have a sleeve of some type to make the steering wheel and upper console match up. Luckily I had some aluminum stock left over so I turned a couple down on my lathe and added a setscrew to each. Not perfect, but looks decent. I also replaced the roll pin with a bolt with spacers. I bleeping hate roll pins! The steering is much tighter than it was before with almost no play. What little there is comes from the reduction unit, and it's as snug as I can get it without it binding. Huge improvement!

its not mine. (But could be!). I know of the guy with the FEL and he want to sell it. It needs a seat. Ok, what’s it worth? A 93 314H, I didn’t see it run, it was out of gas. But, let’s assume it runs. It’s a Kiki way loader and it’s got non leaking lines. I think the lines are original. The muffler is whole! I mean, lets assume its got oil to be changed, fuel lines and an air filter to be changed. Shoot me all the questions and I’ll try to answer them! I mean, I’ll make sure the loader works!

So, what do you guys think? $2000-2500?? Im gonna try to get it for less than that.

The grease goes out the bottom anyway - there is a blow-out from the OE machining process. I figure the packed shallow grooves help to smear the grease.

They are limited to what they can do but come in handy for many tasks. Not a big deal to install and remove.

Same technique for mine... 3rd season and going great!

Now that the foot rests are on I can set the foot pedal height. I initially screwed the heim joint in all the way on the foot pedal control rod so the pedal is too far forward as shown. Here I am holding the pedal in full reverse and you can see the large gap between the reverse pedal and the foot rest. To adjust the pedal, unbolt the heim joint from the foot pedal and unscrew it a few turns on the rod then bolt it back to the pedal. Then push the pedal to full reverse again. When you have it set right the pedal will almost touch the foot rest but there should be a small gap. This will ensure you have full reverse speed. Once the heim is set in the right place the jamb nut can be tightened on the control rod to lock the heim joint in place. Here is the foot pedal in full reverse showing the slight gap to the foot rest. Here is how the foot pedal sits in neutral now. Tractor overview as of today.

Foot rest rubber bumpers ready to install. These are just what I happen to have here, not really the ones that were used originally. Foot rest rubber bumpers silicone used as adhesive since the holes in the foot rests are just slightly too big for the bumpers to firmly snap onto. Foot rests ready for rubber bumpers to be installed. I cleaned the footrest and rubber bumper where the silicone is to be applied with contact cleaner so it will bond better. Foot rest rubber bumpers installed. I used a small screwdriver to apply just a thin layer of silicone to the rubber bumper before installing them to the foot rests.

Might be from when it fell off the overhead and hit the missus car ...

Did you try pulling harder?

I put a winch on the dedicated snow machine. I hurt for 2 days anymore using the manual lift. I do about 3/8 mile of drives.

Dummy me didn't realize I needed to remove the flywheel screen for it to come off Got the new steering tower in place and started reassembling everything

happy Birthday @JC 1965, we are glad you were born.

Reminds me of using a periscope for some welding in tight spaces.

Just for conversation sake, the 520 reduction steering seems to have the most wear in this area. I have seen 800 plus hour machines with no wear compared to another that is egg shaped. The later not being serviced. One real problem with these joints is dirt / dust grinding out the fit as well as the teeth. As you said the fitting is tough to access. Maybe a short, remote grease hose would be the bonus?

Foot rests ready to install. Left side foot rest ready to install. Right side foot rest ready to install. Tractor ready for foot rests to be installed. Now I need to wait a while for the silicone to cure so don't knock the bumpers off installing the foot rests.

Not too far but I add a zerk to the bottom bearing hole. Really not needed must be the Greasy Pete in me. Out of the 50 tractors @ebinmaine has I've never seen one wallowed out. Not sure if adding it is worth weakening that area.

Is the lose of bearing surface greater than the advantage of the grease groove? Taken the joint is serviced timely.

If just a cold storage warehouse then pole frame. Stick you need concrete. Gravel is fine for a warehouse. Nice thing about gravel is you can drop the mule's oil right on it, rake it around and walla ... blacktop.

I am pretty much done with the building my own thing, to arthritic and short on time. My last build was a prefab. It was so nice just getting the pad level, wrote a check and viola....I have a building, here are the keys. After looking around found this place in Ohio. Super high quality. They do large custom structures. I got the tongue and groove treated flooring, and it solid. https://alpinestructures.net/index.html

Unfortunately my services were required at work on Saturday so it was kind of an unproductive weekend for me. A big Thank You to @WHX?? for the nice steering wheel. It cleaned up very nicely. I also painted a few small items for the engine today. Fly wheel, governor arm pieces, & little trinkets & doo dad's. I did get side tracked with another project. I'm helping a friend set up his Simple-city with a Magnum 16 Kohler. This was a yank start engine that we converted to electric start. Fits perfectly in the frame. He carved out an adapter that bolts to the flywheel so that the drive shaft can be connected. A few little kinks to work out on this yet but it is coming along well.

Through ice and sleet and snow. They made it here.

Agreed. Follow the @SylvanLakeWH rule!!

Actually @JCM I’m not talking about the Kwik-Way, my bad ! Mine is a Wheel Horse loader which I believe is actually made by Ark. I think I only took it off once before realizing it was easier to leave it on and just get more tractors for different attachments!!

The only problem I see is the grease has a way to go out, not stay in. I think a radial groove would be better. Maybe with a couple short cuts in the shaft that don't go to the end. My

The first few years I had just one tractor to do everything, I could install or remove the loader under a half hour. The front axle and spindles should be upgraded to handle the load, the 520H tractors have what is needed. Also. gear reduction steering will help a lot, the weight really makes it difficult to steer.

Wow, never heard of such! Yay I learnt a new ting today!

OK thanks that the part number I have also just wasn't sure about it. its like about 5/8 wide I seen on a post someone was using a 1/2 wide belt . id rather not used aftermarket.

From my experience, once the loader is on that’s it. It becomes a dedicated loader tractor. You’re not switching attachments like you would mower to tiller, or tiller to plow. It’s a process to take that off or put it on. That being said, go get it and add another one to your collection!!

Ok I fixed it. I got it running better than it ever has since I’ve owned it. I can now run it with no choke on, and idle it way down without it surging. I’m not sure any one thing I did fixed it. I think it was a combination of things. First I took apart the original carb and cleaned it. I was able to reuse the original gasket that goes between the halves. Although the next time I take it apart I should probably buy the rebuild kit with a new gasket. Next I cranked it over with the fuel hose still disconnected from the carb. It seemed to not flow very well. Less than the gravity flow through a 1/4” like for sure. So I swapped out the new aftermarket fuel pump back to the original. Then tested it again. It seemed to flow quite a bit better with the original pump. At first when I put it all back together the carb bowl wouldn’t fill. So I popped the top off the carb again and shot some more carb cleaner through the needle valve on the float. I cranked it over and saw fuel filling the bowl so I put it back together. She fired right up and runs good. Now I can focus on my rear wheel spacers and getting chains on it. I guess my lesson here is beware of aftermarket parts. They’re not all the same spec as Onan. Most likely if I had just cleaned the carb and resealed the intake I would have been golden

Got these in the post. Grinding disc is for size reference.

As promised more pictures. You guys are making me feel bad for wanting parts from this tractor Hope the pictures give a better idea of its condition. Been painted a couple times with a brush. Needs all tires and front wheels. The wiring is not great. Hydro pulley is bent and fan blades broken off. Seat latch is gone. The list goes on. All that being said, I'm still not 100% sold on robbing parts from it. I had limited time while both girls were down for naps so I quickly threw a jump pack on it. It would crank over 1 revolution and stop every time I tried. So I helped it along spinning the pulley by hand. It'll crank now but slowly. That's where I stopped as the + post on the s/g started smoking after only cranking a couple times. As mentioned the wiring is sketchy. I found 2 loose connections in the 10min I played with it. When I get some time to sneak away to the barn again I'll go over the wiring and start there. I definitely think it'll be a runner

Ive plowed 3 times Ed and no problems yet. I just hit the button real quick and it lifts about 3 inches. Which is what my manual lift did. It has the wireless remote. As soon as you let off the button it stops. Fingers crossed.

28 degrees? the heat is in the tools! my shop is 50/60.....that is why not as much gets done!

Flywheel screen ready to install. Flywheel screen bolts and screws ready to install. Flywheel ready for screen to be installed. Flywheel screen loosely bolted on with the four center bolts. Note the upper right hand center bolt is in line with an outer screen hole. It is critical to line this up right or the outer screw holes will not line up. Flywheel screen loosely bolted on with the four center bolts and the six outer screws. Flywheel screen bolts torqued to 180 in/lb and screws torqued to 22.5 in/lb. Flywheel screen installed.

Plastic scraper, flat blade screwdriver (being careful to not take the paint off), rags and elbow grease. No cleaning chemicals or even water. This spring I’ll remove the fender and guards and all and it’s get a proper pressure washing.

So you basically removed all that paint protector! LOL Amazing how deep that stuff was. And BTW you missed a spot!

Front axle ready to be installed. Front axle pin ready to be installed. I made this up at my old work place and it uses a cotter pin instead of an E clip for the secondary retainer. 3/4" pin is stainless steel and the tab is carbon steel. Tractor ready for front axle to be installed. Front axle installed. Front axle pivot pin bolt installed and torqued to 17 ft/lb. Front axle pivot pin stainless cotter pin and thin shim washer installed. Tractor assembly as of today.

till after I got the occupancy permit, then those things magically appeared. Akin to those midnight sewer connections??

I don’t believe it does come with the 2 loader stands. I believe it has the weight box.

My neighbor asked for help, he said the engine on his craftsman was blown and needed a tractor. I was able to get a nice Workhorse Automatic off of a member here and helped haul it from Mass. to NY for my him. Anyway, the “blown” engine was a Briggs Intek OHV which was burning a LOT of oil. Told my neighbor I would take the craftsman for him, here’s what I found, from what I hear, it’s pretty common: Got everything all cleaned up, new gasket and runs great now!

It's bottled in liters, not quarts.

WTH is METRIC OIL ??!!???

On the Grazer mower I used as a kid , I would rock the pto switch back and forth at a lower rpm so the blades would ez into engagement . In my later years as a od grinder we would spin the grinding wheel by hand then hit the on off switch a couple times so that it wouldn't knock my wheel out of balance (+-.0005 on some jobs) . Seem to work , and the belt didn't shriek when you turned it on .

I will do this in a couple of posts...(so I don't confused) I am disassembling 3 WH Electric PTOs. I assume youhave already removed from teh tractor using a pusher bolt. 5/8NC or 7/8NC or 1"NC depending on the age of your PTO First picture are the tools i used Who ever made these for WH they were not consistent in the style of snap ring. The Eaton type require a special pliers or you will probably damage it (or your self removing it. The big internal snap ring on the right can be removed with a couple of screw drivers. Next step is to remove the electro magnet (field Coil). Note on older units with a 7/8 or 1" pusher there may be a snap ring you have to remove between the outer bearing and the field coil. Newer units do not use that. Thread the 5/8" nc bolt into the unit from the outside Picture 2 make sure the threads are fully engaged. Manual says use cement floor i used an anvil and proceed to slam the unit down on the bolt head several times...and I do mean slam.Picture 3. You may want to put a small amount of Kroil.PB Blaster in the seam between the inner bearing race and the PTO sleeve. After several hard slams the field coil will drop out Picture 4. You will then have 2 parts picture 5. Time for a coffeee break. More to follow

It may be in our minds as well because your car A/C unit cycles on and off as you drive with no ill effects.