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Finished the C-145 auto today…she’s ready for battle!! 25# inner and 65# outer weights. Brand new rear Carlisle All-Trails and a 48” 5 sector plow (yes I removed the swept axle extension kit for this install) I have cast iron 8” front weights and a set of rubber tire chains on standby if I need it.

November 7,1962, Richard Nixon concedes his loss in the California governor's race, telling assembled press: "You won't have Nixon to kick around anymore because, gentlemen, this is my last press conference." He would win the presidency six years later.

Put some decks away for the winter. Left one on the 310-8 with Trac Vac for collecting leaves.

Bless you for taking care of a house of worship. Are you going to have to replace or recut the glass or do you think the aluminum is wide enough to trim a little off each side? The majority of storm window frames are a channel and if the outside were removed the sides would fall off. Not knowing all of the details I am inclined to think @Handy Don idea of routing the openings to fit the storm windows is the best way to go. Attach a temporary guide board to each side of the window and select a flush trim router bit with a bearing that will give the depth of cut you need. Set up a temporary scaffold or other safe work platform and trim each side to fit the storm window. The router will ride on the Temporary Guide Board so a secure work platform is very important since tilting the router in either direction would give you an improper cut. Give the fresh wood some oil based primer and a topcoat of latex exterior paint. Here is a drawing of the before and after router work.

Absolutely agree, especially when being used on thin stock. Pro installers tend to use a compound miter or chop saw as it lets them hold the stock firmly while making the cut. Is your goal to make them narrower and shorter and reduce the glass area as well? Every storm window I’ve encountered was assembled with cast aluminum corner pieces crimped into a tubular extruded frame. These are not easily disassembled without damage. I get not wanting to caulk, for sure. If this were me, I’d seriously consider: - router the inner edges of the outer wood trim boards to the size of the outer edge of the aluminum window frame. This creates a recessed mounting surface and removes the splintered current mountings. Use a router bit with a guide bearing set properly. (Some manual chiseling to “square” the corners would still be needed) - then, because the “ledge” is still too narrow, add a ledger strip (use weatherproof glue and nails) to create a more secure (and now weather resistant attachment) - lastly, maybe, add a bit of aluminum flashing to re-direct rain coming down from the upper trim piece out away from the aluminum frame.

LOL @ Finished One is never TRULY finished.

Rubber tire straps/chains installed on 416. New seat coming tomorrow.

I stand corrected, this 81 year old just got schooled by a teenager.

Aluminum cuts surprisingly well with woodworking tools. We used to have several 10” woodworking miter saws at work stationed throughout the shop in individual workcells that were used to cut aluminum for cut-to-fit applications where we can’t do it ahead of time in a better cold saw. I don’t remember the tooth count, but it’s in the 100-tooth range for most extrusions like 1/8” thick angle and channel. Thicker stock got fewer teeth. We used to use the piranha blades but changed to a local place that also sharpened them when needed and made them with flatter plates. The piranha blades were just thrown in the scrap when they dulled. there was enough of a degree of halfassery with these setups that we largely phased them out, but cut quality was always good and aside from the flying chips it was no less safe than a lot of other processes. The weld shop guys still keep a miter saw handy for their use. I haven’t cut aluminum for a long time on a table saw, but I’ve cut up to 3/4” plate a few times using just carbide tipped blades. It works well but the flying chips are a real hazard. I never had an issue but I would think the kickback danger is increased compared to wood if things aren’t nicely aligned or your technique drifts. it even routs pretty well with a handheld router, but it can get away from you if you take a heavy pass. Depending what you’re doing, a pass over a carbide tipped spiral bit on a router table might work too. soft aluminum - like 5052 - will stick to the teeth. Harder aluminum like 6061 is much more forgiving. There will be some magical feed rate that will get the best results. If it’s sticking, you may have to cut faster. The guys at work apply some kind of stick wax to the cutline at times. I have no idea what storm windows would be made from. Seems like most extrusions would be 6000 series. best of luck and be careful. Steve

Today I brought Mrs. 953 home from the hospital. Both of us got the flue shots but the flue my wife came down with didn't seem to be the one the shot covered. It was an intestinal virus that hit her like a ton of bricks. She had been visiting a friend at the hospital several times so my guess is that is where she got it. The first symptom was her throwing up right after lunch, I told her if she didn't like my cooking she could just tell me!

Something like this may save the paint on your pretty wheels. Those 60+ lbs weights are hard to wrestle by hand

In the continued effort to make certain parts of my life more physical, I've recently picked up this new 36 inch Fiskars splitting maul. It weighs something like 8.5 lb. Trina just a few weeks ago, picked up the little 17 inch mini ax that it's pictured with. Her mom wanted a smaller ax to use for splitting kindling up. The box arrived with two axes in it, so now each one of them has a mini. I did a couple quick test splits with the maul. VERY IMPRESSIVE. I like it so much I think I may have to get the ax that goes with it and has the same size handle. Here's the maul head in my big mitt. I'm hoping to make this part of my better Fitness regiment.

Definitely has $500 worth of parts assuming the Onan is blown. hub caps $200 42"RD deck $150 Eaton 1100 $200 front axle $200 seat $40

I like that idea but I'm thinking I'm going to hit a lot of nails holding the exterior trim to the window frame. There are twenty windows. The size is about 34" wide and five feet tall. I may end up cutting them on my shop saw that has a much bigger table. In worse case scenario, I'll re-attach them like they have been for all these years. I suppose I could run a bead of caulk across the top of the windows, that way the next person could cut the caulk with a utility knife before removing the window. I had four window sills that needed attention, possibly in part due to the storm windows allowing water behind them. Personally, I like the looks of the windows without the storm windows but the added protection from weather and for weatherization they are necessary. The church doesn't have money to replace the windows or even the storm windows and there is something about old wavy glass windows--kind of like patina on a Wheelhorse. Below is the front of the church with new deck. The tall posts are for the new porch that we are going to build. This is likely the last hurrah for this old building. The small community is dwindling. The 2x4 oak rafters on the building have bellied some 6 to 8". (I can't believe the roofing supplier loaded all of the shingles on that one valley.) The rim joists are about shot (we replaced the one across the front of the building and around back a piece of metal was nailed over a hole where the rim joist was missing). I replaced a fair amount of the clapboard siding, made window drip cap for the windows that needed it. My goal is to keep a much water out that I can. One neighbor lady came up and donated $2,000 because she appreciated saving the building. Concrete apron will be poured at the end of the ramp and a sidewalk where the steps will be in front of the doors. An interesting note: The foundation is poured concrete. There are no footers. When we dug for posts next to the building, we never found a footer. We dug our holes for the posts deeper than the foundation was buried in the ground.

That I believe was actually an option, I've seen something similar in the HL-5 Headlight manual jumble on here, I'll post a link in a minute Here's the link I believe

A Chinaman goes to see the eye doctor... After the exam the doctor said, "I know why you're having trouble." The Chinaman says, "why?" Doctor said, "you have a cataract." Chinaman says, "no, I have a Rincoln Continental."

Prototype Tesla

I'm thinking the more teeth the better.

A fine day to plow leaves!

Finally got around to taking a few pictures of this little beauty that I picked up from @Dan 312-8 back in June.

did not look like recycler mower - - why did you think that? looks like a standard 42 rd -- a recycler usually has decals on each end saying Recycler hub caps and deck and chrome muffler cover would sell for 500

This doesn't always "work". I fell off a 12' ladder onto the concrete floor in my shop in 2024. Initial x-ray led to an orthopedist visit where I was basically told to suck it up while it healed. So I sucked it up until mid 2025 as it just kept getting worse. At that time I was told it was in my neck. After having THAT checked out with nothing found, I insisted upon re-evaluation in late 2025 (by a hand/wrist specialist). New x-rays showed 2 "non-unions" so a date was set for surgery. The surgeon decided he wanted an MRI just before surgery, and that showed 2 severed ligaments. During surgery, another severed ligament was found, as well as a pulverized bone. The ligaments were severed by constant rubbing against bone fragments. My wrist had 2 bones removed & 3 pins installed, leaving me with between 30 - 40 degrees of motion. Also, my pinky is in permanent "tea time" configuration, and I have hugely reduced use of my (right) hand. In short, see your doctor. Even if he or she says all is well, if something does not seem right, get a second or third opinion, and keep doing it until it is fixed or healed.

Spouse and I just got back from a week in Arizona. She's a Jane Austen fan, and we attended the JASNA (Jane Austen Society of North America) conference in Tucson. She was an official 'attendee,' and I was just listed as her 'companion.' There were over 700 people at the conference, so it was a fairly big affair. I only attended one lecture and the dinner, which was kind of fun, since almost everyone at the dinner dressed in Regency period clothing (including yours truly). I must say that we really looked the part with our Regency get-ups, (even though I don't know how to line dance or play whist). Wife attended a bunch of different lectures and events, and while she was getting 'Jane Austen-ized' I ventured out on my own and visited the Pima Air & Space Museum, which has a massive collection of aircraft, and the Titan Missile Museum (Titan missile silo), which was very interesting but kind of a somber experience at the same time, since it was sort of weird standing in the control room where mass destruction could have been wreaked upon the world. The tour guide had a couple of people in our tour group act as operators and follow the actual sequence that would have been used to launch a missile, which was a bit spooky. Looking down at a disarmed missile in the silo: We had a free day at the conference and visited the Sonora Desert Museum, which I thought was excellent. Here's a scenic view from the museum grounds: We also spent a night in Bisbee, which I rather liked. Very laid-back, artsy-craftsy old copper-mining town. Lots of arts and cultural events for such a small town. There weren't many tourists, despite the nice weather, and it still retains a substantial amount of its old mining-town atmosphere. We may go back someday and spend a little more time there to see if we like it well enough to use it as a winter getaway spot---not necessarily for purchasing a house, but possibly renting a place for a month or so during the dead of winter, since their winters are quite mild, and they rarely get snow. While we were gone, lots of leaves decided to fall here in Maine, and of course they've been soaked by rain, so my backpack blower won't move them very well. I've decided to wait another week (or more) until almost all of the oak leaves are down, and then use one of the Wheel Horses with mulching blades to make three or four complete passes over the lawn to grind them to oblivion, rather than trying to blow them away or rake them up.

I'll check my stock here. I've had gaskets separate. Not sure what size.

I’ll offer some basic orientation that might, I hope, help you with diagnostics. 😁 The blue arrow points to the base of the input control arm on the hydro. It rotates when movement of the plate (yellow arrow) applies force against the eccentric (red arrow). The plate’s movement comes via a linkage to the forward/reverse motion control lever you operate by hand. The hydro pump/motor is internally symmetric making it capable of the same output speed in either direction. Moving the hydro’s input arm in one direction yields forward and the other way yields reverse. HOWEVER, those clever WH engineers shaped the slot in the plate so that (when correctly adjusted) it pushes the eccentric further in the forward direction that the reverse direction--hence the normal difference between full forward and full reverse. (Other parts of the linkage are also involved.) There are several possible reasons for having insufficient arm rotation in your “forward” direction. ONE of the reasons is addressed in Step 6, above. Over time, the sides of the slot in the plate and the sides of the eccentric can wear down through normal use leaving the eccentric “loose” in the slot. Step 6 in the manual is showing how to rotate the eccentric where it is attached to the input arm to where it is slightly narrower than the slot in the plate (to permit free movement with minimal slack) and where the end of the input arm (i.e. the bolt) is positioned in the middle of the slot. Further, it wants the “notch” in the eccentric to be pointed away from the input arm’s base at the hydro--yours is toward. Some subtle geometry dictates this. So your first step (with the engine off) is to hold the hex part of the eccentric with one wrench while loosening the bolt that holds it with a second wrench (or socket). Carefully rotate the eccentric 180º from pointing ESE (east southeast in the picture) so that it points WNW (west northwest). Retighten the holding bolt while again holding the eccentric. This might have some effect on the forward speed, but likely not a lot! Other adjustments to the linkage are likely needed to make sure that when the manual motion control lever is firmly in neutral the input arm to the hydro is centered (i.e. the tractor isn’t creeping forward or backward) and that the full range of motion control input is being transmitted to get proper rotation of the input arm. Here, though, we reach the limit of my expertise as I’ve not worked on this model. I will note that the Eaton manual for the 1100 has pretty clear instructions for adjusting the linkages so I would continue there first and, of course, come back here with questions (and pictures!)

702854boy posted link to manual with factory info below

It needs to stick out some,because the hole is not blind so it has to be pulled out, but it should not hit the gear cover IIRC. I had issues with mine only working in one direction that drove me nuts for a while, and that was the problem.

To me that looks like someone flipped the hood ornament around and set the aftermarket light through the large end of the ornament. Neat look!

Will guess the shaft diameter is 7/8". Got a Princess Auto nearby? They have sheaves that bolt to a tapered hub sized to the shaft. They often are made to use both 1/2" and 5/8" wide belts so the effective diameter is different. The sheaves use an industrial way of measurement so best to measure where the correct belt rides in the groove and match up the diameter. The sheaves are secured to the hub with bolts and the same bolts are removed from their holes and entered into others to push the sheave back off .https://www.princessauto.com/en/product/single-groove-solid-cast-iron-sheaves/PA1000001359 https://www.princessauto.com/en/product/split-tapered-bushings/PA1000001199 They also have a series of stamped steel pulleys that require they be welded to a hub sized to the shaft. https://www.princessauto.com/en/product/weld-on-pulleys/PA1000001341 https://www.princessauto.com/en/product/x-series-weld-on-hubs/PA1000001386

Why not switch it with a Carter Model N??

Had a chance this morning to get back to this rig. Trans is out! Fuel line is old and showing cracks in the rubber so that’s also going to be replaced. Drive belt is new so that’s staying. The brake band was a new one from Bob @rmaynard and it’s still like new 6 or 7 years later Amazingly the tow hitch came right out!

OK guys. Enjoy the video of my hand Actually I did this one just to get the audio. You can hear the noise much better with the mic pointed at the engine. I guess I should have pointed the camera the other way. https://youtube.com/shorts/AXHWx0tkOeI

@Pullstart would definitely still have that checked out by a doctor , thats your OPPORTUNITY , my wife had a thumb bone removed , that had split , dr said , its critical to get a , medical , verification to statis , overall , function / feel . rather than have to literally go in , and repair a poor , healing set up . pete

Over the past few days I cleaned out my garage and painted the floor. I’ve been wanting to do this for a while and with no rain in forecast I figured now was the time. It looked like I was having a yard sale in my driveway! I also took this opportunity to throw some stuff out that I haven’t used in years. Next I will clean off the work benches and paint those as well. I just wanted to get the floor done while it was warm out.

Yes, but it might cover up other sounds...

Beautiful 41* here. Great morning to sit in a tree and watch the sun rise.

Design upgrade you should avoid...

I'll sell you my RJ-58 for $2499 with an original gas tank! That's ridiculous expecting that kind of money but at least they didn't cut the hood

A couple pictures of this week's work in our Ky woods. The camper after we dropped it down the hill and got it back up the hill to the Mrs 8n approved level spot: A shot of the storage shed and the new camp bath house. The original position of the camper was just out of the left side of the picture. Oh, yea - the camper's toung jack caster wheel has been replaced with a foot. That, and the four stabilizing jacks on the trailer will go a long way to prevent the 'runaway trailer' syndrome we had the other day.

Had new tires put on the JGC today.

Big Show Bargains ! Think I'm gonna need a bigger bucket.

Started the clean up of Mrs.Ks family cemetery. Her Great Great Great Great Great Grandfather is buried here. Next trip I'll bring a .

WE took our monthly fuel fill up to Richmond Indiana Kroger to use our fuel points. thirty five gallons at 2.99 which is 25 percent off. That fuel will take us 1400 miles. I needed some stuff from menards and on the way to finding it, i found eighteen ounce spray cans of Knock Er Loose penetrant for lass than the price of name brand stuff. $4.99 after rebate. i have used it and it works as well as most of them and better than some. It was marked with a special price sticker so I might buy another 2 or 3. The leaves are muted colors so far , but still enjoyed time with the wife when she wasn't making driving suggestions.

#41 off the assembly line