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For International Tongue Twister Day, celebrated every second Sunday in November, don’t get your tongue tied this November 9. We’re not talking about rolling or curling your taste-tester. In fact, we’re looking at Peter Piper, the woodchuck, and all their friends. Tongue twisters are a silly way to pass the time or practice pronunciation. Shoot, you can even use them to practice a foreign language! It’s time to celebrate all the twisty things you can say with your tongue. Tongue twisters have technically been around since as early as the 19th century when John Harris published “Peter Piper’s Practical Principles of Plain and Perfect Pronunciation,” which included a twisty tongue tango for every letter of the alphabet. And while the book was meant to help children learn the fundamentals of speech mechanics, its titular twister garnered quite the attention and inspired a lot of lore about its namesake. Speculation aside, it turns out Peter Piper was based on French horticulturalist Pierre Poivre, whose last name actually means ‘pepper’ in French. Pierre was said to be exploring the viability of growing American spices in the French Mediterranean. Whether you’re trying to master Peter Piper, the woodchuck, or even “The Guinness Book of World Records’” most difficult recorded tongue twister, “The sixth sick sheik’s sixth sheep’s sick,” you’re sure to get your tongue endlessly tied.

Oh my God .... I thought my wheel horse wrangling days were over ...... Apparently not...... This D-200 trotted in to the stable from auction this afternoon. #28. I have not run the numbers yet to see what year it is. The ag tires appear to be brand new. Unlike my other one? This one came with ammo boxes! I guess for scrapping with unruly neighbors?? 😁

Added another round hood to my herd. I've always liked the looks of the round hoods, but was not a big fan of the square aluminum gas tanks. For this reason I had been looking for a 704 to add to my herd. @WHX?? alerted me to one that for sale on Face Book close by and was willing to do the FB work to get me hooked up. Thanks Jim !! Pics of the newest addition. PTO does not look correct to me. The gas tank that is in it is not right, but I have the correct one. Anyone see any thing else out of place please let me know. I also got this deck with it. It looks in pretty good shape but is not on the implement list for the 704. Anyone know off hand what it should be mated to? One more of my bucket lister's obtained. Only ? more to go.

I recenty gave The Pullstart a set of weights because they are too heavy for my 66 yo back. I want em back Kev ...

my bucket list is the size of a swimming pool! (heated pool of course) Master plan partial restore?

As a Manufacturing Engineer, I very seldom got those panic phone calls. On the other hand, the Process Engineers and the Maintainence guys all had that imaginary "Property of Stoneridge" tattoo on their backsides....

702

Yes, galling can be rather 'galling.' I've rarely had a galling issue with fasteners as small as 10-32 screws, but the chance of galling certainly increases rapidly as screw diameters and torque values increase. Thread pitch can also be a factor. I have four or five different types of anti-seize lubricants, a couple of which I use for stainless, such as Blue Moly, which works well, but it's very blue and very messy to use (wear rubber gloves). I have a couple of general-purpose anti-seize compounds that I often use on fasteners that will be exposed to weather or other harsh conditions, partly because it helps to seal the threads. When installing spark plugs, I use an electrically conductive copper-containing anti-seize compound, which also has good heat transfer characteristics (be careful not to get it on the insulator of the plug). One 'gotcha' with anti-seize compounds is that they have a torque factor that should be applied when tightening a fastener because the lubricity of the compound will typically reduce the amount of torque required to obtain the correct stretch or clamping force for a bolt, whether it be a reusable bolt or a one-time-use torque-to-yield bolt. The torque factor for a specific anti-seize compound is generally found in the technical data sheet for that product. Some typical values might range anywhere from a 10- to 30-percent reduction in required torque...give or take. The yellow, green, and blue chromate passivation treatments (conversion coatings) on zinc plating provide a good increase in corrosion protection over plain zinc plating. Most grade 8 fasteners have yellow-chromate treatment. Zinc-flake-coated steel is even better for corrosion protection than the chromate treatments, although I've found that the thickness of the flake coating sometimes makes the bolt-to-nut fit a bit on the snug side. I'm set up to do my own electroplating, which can be handy for restoring special fasteners that are not easily replaced, such as the script-head bolts for my Dodge M37 project. It's a bit time-consuming, and some of the chemicals can run up a bill, so it really doesn't save me any money, but it's nice to be able to control the process, especially making sure that all steel parts are baked immediately after plating to help prevent hydrogen embrittlement, which is even more important for harder, alloy, high-strength, etc., steels. Here's a photo of part of my plating bench setup (more has been added since this photo was taken): As an example, here are some of the shoulder bolts used for mounting the headlights on my Dodge M37 after glass bead blasting and before plating: And after plating and a chromate passivation treatment: I may be getting carried away here. This could easily expand into a whole new discussion of what type or grade fastener is best for certain jobs, but that should probably be left to its own thread.

Epoxies are a good option for water resistant adhesives too. If you stick to those that are bis-phenol A (BPA) types you’ll avoid the formaldehyde emissions issues. Might sacrifice some flammability resistance though…and there’s the whole hormone-imitation thing as well but that’s another kettle of fish. We used to make some specialty composite parts that were used in deep ocean environments. Epoxy (almost) across the board. Of course, no wood there. I didn’t realize resorcinol adhesives were still common. They’re from the phenolic polymer family which used to be cutting-edge for making plastics (circuit boards, Bakelite, etc) but they aren’t as favored or common these days. There’s a lot more epoxies, acrylics, and other specialty adhesives available now. As an aside, Cas mentioned mixing them properly. He’s absolutely right. There’s a temptation to fudge the mix ratio of two-part adhesives (and other materials) in an attempt to adjust cure time, get a harder cure, make it stronger, or whatever. The problem is this ALWAYS compromises the chemistry of the mix and nearly always results in an inferior product. The manufacturer will usually have you blend the components in a perfect ratio where nearly every molecule of both components are consumed or reacted together with no excess of either one. This is the stoichiometric ratio. wandering in either direction will result in something being left over and the other being in short supply. This results in unreacted stuff - basically a contaminant - inside the final plastic. This will translate into different physical properties than you paid for. Almost always, this means weaker. In an epoxy or phenolic for instance, adding additional hardener will leave surplus gooey hardener dissolved in the final product. Not good. Also, it can force the stuff that does react (cross link) to form a different network of bonds than you wanted. Those are typically also the bonds you’re asking to reach out and latch onto available sites on the substrates. Also not good. You can also change the rate that things happen and further disrupt that network. There are exceptions. Sometimes in industry we go off ratio as our process’s kinetics might not allow mixing to stoichiometric. Or we have a brittle system and we know that flooding with a calculated amount of extra hardener can soften things up and somewhat toughen the result. But there’s a lot of mix-test-mix-test iteration going on to get a desired and repeatable result. My point is, the mix ratio the manufacturer gives isn’t arbitrary. Don’t be suspicious of a nice ratio like 4:1 or 2:1 instead of 3.1415:1. Don’t assume they rounded it off to make it easier. Rather, I can almost guarantee they’ve added controlled diluents or fillers to make the measuring work out easier. Anyway, this got long. I just wanted to mention epoxies and look what happened. Steve

Picked up the Bervac today! Thanks to @Ed Kennell Got it installed on the Workorse already. Its so heavy & that means its staying on permanently! Predicting out 1st "lake effect " snow starting overnight Sunday with potential for 5-10" of heavy, wet snow. Might need it???? 20251108_164936.mp4

The longer pipe sure changes the sound. Saw one GT with the pipe run all the way out the back of the tractor. Had a really nice rap to it. Did not sound like a typical single cylinder small engine.

OMG I am using that one. Of course I mean to myself, as I have a wife and 3 daughters... If I suddenly stop posting here you'll know I slipped up and accidentally said it out loud. I use your same steps, with one addition here: trash previous attempt, recover what you can and return to previous step. Repeat as necessary.

2 Fer

Yesterday I scored some free 6-12 turfs with chains from a friend.

That's a sick 702

Best waterproof adhesive I have ever seen.............Automotive Windshield Urethane.

And it all started over the humble rake handle. Good conversation. However to all reading this understand that these glues are many times dangerous to your health and regardless of how careful you are and how much protection you use there is always exposure to it. It’s smart to think about it before using them and perhaps decide that it’s not worth the risk. I have been diagnosed with something incurable which is attributed mainly to exposure to solvents. Through out my career I certainly been exposed to quite a lot. Specially when one is young and really inexperienced in life we do what needs to be done but without thinking of the possible or potential consequences. Be careful.

it's cold out and I am bored so I am going to make some hl5 light brackets, what size pipe is used? I was going to use 1/2" EMT since I have a bunch on hand. where is the switch mounted?, I see they are still available. I found the photo of the template, I redrew it in Autocad and I will post as pdf once I know it works out

I added an additional 20 lb barbell weight plate to my existing Bolens 75 pounders, as there was enough room for it in the C81 wheel... the problem is they now weigh 95 pounds each and are a bear to install. Solution - adapt the floor jack to lift & center the weights..... works well.

Seen the steam train on the way to putting my truck in winter storage. I timed it well, only waiting a few minutes for it to arrive at each of the two locations I stopped at. IMG_4492.mov

You-all talking glue way over my limited knowledge of this subject. Interesting conversation though. I've had pretty good success with polyurathane (Gorilla Glue) on projects. I built the balustrade below in 2005 and used Gorilla Glue. So far it's held up. The sawn ballisters were made from cedar. (At that time, #3 cedar was often times used as roof decking so I picked out the better boards for my railing.) I bored something like 800 holes in the production of the handrail and the spandrels. Unfortunately, the wooden posts I purchased at the lumber yard didn't last even ten years. (They had a hole in the center the length of the posts from top to bottom. I cut a hole in my porch floor and notched the top of the wooden posts hoping that air could circulate and therefore help the posts to dry and last longer but that was of no value. I replaced them with vinyl posts.) I have one ballister that is getting punky but the rest have held up well. Good think I have opportunity to join this post tonight. Tomorrow it will be too cold to be barefoot on the front porch taking photos!

Wait... urine and embalming fluid makes glue !?!?!?!? Urea is a nitrogen-containing waste product formed from the breakdown of protein in the liver, filtered out by the kidneys, and excreted in urine. It is also a widely used chemical with diverse applications, including a high-nitrogen fertilizer Formaldehyde : Embalming fluid - Commonly used in mortuaries. I thought Urea was for making corn grow and formaldehyde was for keeping things from rotting. What mad chemist decided to mix these together for glue ???? Made me think of a morbid joke, but I'll keep it to myself.

A small glasspack straight-thru muffler would mellow it down a tad, like a stack does....

I agree. I'm not real big on hub caps. I have a nice set of the later metal ones, just have a hard time covering up nicely painted rims. On the other hand.... If I had a nice set of the baby moon style with the painted on them, I just might have to pick one of my restored round hoods to put them on.

Pics as promised: New storage loft: Got the electrical ready for the floor pour

Back working on EJ the 8n this week. New electronic distributor, new fuel line and gas shut off valve were installed. Even applied a grease gun to take zreks that I could find. That Pertronix electronic ignition system works well - it makes a world of difference. With the old points system in a worn distributor, there was an intermittent miss under load. That has gone away with the new distributor and electronics. The clean up I did on the brakes has worked as well. I actually have brakes that will hold the tractor on a hill and work as turning brakes. Time will tell if I stopped the oil leak in the axle. Got a slow leak in the front left tire and a drip at the elbow flare fitting at the carb that won't respond to tightening. Probably have to put another elbow fitting on. The new battery makes a difference as well. The volt meter is now reading 14 volts, where it was only reading 13 volts on the old battery.

I believe there is a page in this manual that addresses settings. This manual is best viewed from a printed version because some of the charts span 2 pages wide. When just viewing it it is hard to tell if you are looking at a left or right page.

@ri702bill was in engineering , PFIZER maintenance over 25 years , rarely had a day that didn't get interesting , CHANGEOVERS , were always loaded with , surprises , thats when your shop , had to switch lines , change every related gasket , to every related line dive 1000, + gal glass lined tanks , for inspection , also included , every related pump or drive unit , clean out and repack every tank " stuffing box " top of tank drive unit , endless detailing , for a product change , reconfiguration , to current set up , for different product . this was also , entirely FOOD GRADE standards , every completed stage was , LAB TESTED , at product line discharge , no wonder we see things differently , 2am call in , pete

Process of using a paring chisel for fitting tenons on link below

Not expert on the new stuff but isn't the tractor you are looking at a 314-8 classic ??? if so the 06-42ST should work

Testing vid

Hello and greetings from Germany! I just bought an old R26. I want to fix it up and use it. It looks so cool and should do the job fine on my property. But, the seller tried to fix it up a bit. And now i have some problems and questions. Any help is appreciated!!! Carburetor for these, where to get them. They all look different then the one on my mower Then he told me it has two speeds, but it seem like i can only engage one? Also the lever for reverse and forward seems to be out of adjustment, it randomly stops driving (when the carby wants to run) Any Info, manuals or products which might help, please let me know

Thanks again. Have some Info's to read through now. Checked the oil, full to the top. So thats on order and will get changed with the right amount of oil. Carby is dismantled and cleaned. just waiting for the membrane (which was rock hard and didnt seal the fuel anymore) Also found needle and seats new. Lets see if i still can get that to work. Also the whole assembly with the rods and such, seem to be mangled with. Try to adjust it, found a video. And then if it runs some more work will wait for me. Found out why i cant change between slow and fast. Its worn out, welding will be needed.

Turn the key to on. Then use a jumper to connect the small lug on the solenoid to the + post on the battery. Disconnect the jumper as soon as it starts. If it starts, the solenoid and starter are working. The problem is in the ignition switch and /or the wiring from the battery to the switch or wiring from the switch to the solenoid.

Ole Reliable With a 14 horse Kohler

Found this ipl but it looks to be a bit of a mess. Might help

Huge thanks guys! The Repair Manual helps a lot! Let me get a carby kit and refresh this one. I think the Diaphragm is bad on mine. When this works i have to figure out the levers, seems like they dont want to do what they should, i keep you posted! And *prost* bolten is close by!

I use this slide hammer from Harbor Freight with the hook tool. Or a blind hole puller.

Thank you. When working end grain of particularly hardwoods such as when trimming a miter with a block plane softening it prior helps greatly. Mineral spirits also work however alcohol evaporates quicker and penetrates deeper. It also has the benefit in an oily wood such as teak of neutralizing the oiliness so glue will adhere better. Someone very influential in my life always got a kick of watching people’s expressions as he would lick the end of a mitered casing prior to adjusting it with a block plane. Sometimes someone just to bust him would point out that there was still a tiny gap. He would just say “listen I just ran out of spit”. I miss those old guys . They were lifetimes of knowledge and experience.

Thanks for sharing such amazing knowledge and skill. Softening hardwood with alcohol is an interesting trick I can use.

Brings back memories. Made dozens of them. 5/8" solid bar. Template fits inside bar.

The switch mounts in a bracket as shown in the link below and mounts on the right side of the tractor where the two bolt holes are as shown in the pic. Hope this helps! https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/mower.html#!/HL-5-Switch-and-Bracket/p/115199381/category=0