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Just got a job as senior director at Old MacDonald's Farm... I’m the CIEIO

Oh, I get it...nobody calked around the ladder.

I've used all the blowers. Short chute, long chute, and dual stage and they all work well in the dry deep snow but not very well in the wet small snows. The single stage blowers must be kept full to work properly and to prevent the chute from clogging. This means the ground speed needs to be adjusted requiring a hydro transmission. IMO, a cab is also a must when using a blower. I now have 48" and 54' plows on my snow movers that I use to keep five driveways clean. I have no problems pushing and stacking the snow on the lawns.

A heavy wet overnight snowfall of six or more inches can be a challenge to clean up. I have two tractors set up for winter use - the C81 with the plow and the 854 8 speed with the 32 inch single stage snowthrower. The plow is best for moving a small amount of snow quickly; the snow thrower can move a large amount of snow rather slowly. I tend to rough out the cleanup starting with the snowthrower and finish with the plow...However, dry fluffly snow is usually dealt with the plow only - If it is windy the snow thrower shoots the snow up into the air and it usually goes everywhere but where you actually want it to go...

Plow the snow into the yard. It is what I do. I have a a 56" D series blade on a Charger 16 pushed it off ...Haven't had a need for my blower in a few years. If you have a gravel driveway get a sweepster to put the stones back in the driveway in the spring...

Everything is great. I got that old momentary switch out also.

We want the video of that, don't hold out on us.

I put the snow on the other side of that firewood row with the 520H and 2 stage. Of course a small amount of snow that is wet can bring things to a halt. A glass windshield with a wiper is essential. SAM_3227.MP4

Tough to beat a 520 - H with a cab for the big storms and clean up around the back of the shop and access to the basement. 418 or 417 with a 48'' front dozer blade is nice for the smaller amounts. C-160 and 314 will do the job as well.

the key issue to me is the personal situation of the homeowners driveway - as well as the equipment -- i find the tractor with a blade can handle 8-10 inches comfortably - but over 10 then it makes sense to be sure to plow before it gets deeper - - especially if wet -- but clearly in your situation you have to have somewhere to put the snow -- not just for the one storm but for multiple storms over multiple weeks ------- when i plow early in the season i always push the snow 5-6 feet off the drieway edge so i have a place to push and pile it for future storms -- but if necessary i use a walk behind blower along the edge of the driveway to throw it a distance clearing the 5-6 ft on the lawn for next storm............ - to me a modest storm of 3-4-5-6 inches is job for the blade ------ but it really depends on the driveway as much as any other factor - if as you say you dont have room and have to throw it a distance then thats a reality that cant be changed

I have a 2 stage on a 520H for the deep stuff (over 6 inches) and a 48" plow on a Work Horse 1800 for light snow, slush and clean up. Works good for me. 750' driveway. As Ed said, a cab is a big plus with a blower. (I don't have one)

Hey guess what?? I have a working tractor. It cranked right up. I can’t begin to thank you so much for all your time.

You have come to the right place. Decks for the 312-8 are still fairly easy to find, a couple of our vendors offer good used decks or NOS never been used decks. You could call Lincoln at A to Z Tractor https://a-ztractor.com/ or send a Personal Message to Brian @76c12091520h at K&B. Bothe are first rate people.

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Cool. Thanks will let you know a little later today how it went. I sure do appreciate all your time with this. Steve

Any good machine shop should be able to mill slots where the threads need to be. New predrilled cast iron tabs could then be placed in the slots then bolted to the side panel while the tabs are welded into the slots in place of the missing material. It won't be cheap but would make for a great "How I SAVED IT" thread.

Honestly I think I have one! Is this it?

Today: Seat pad made from materials on hand. Ran around the hood - no surging!!!

I completely agree. I do the same.... I was away on business for a week years back - it snowed early in the week & my wife paid a neighbor to plow the driveway & in back. He did not push the snow up onto the grass.... It snowed again when I got home - and had almost nowhere to put that snow.

All I got was this pic

Over the last several days I’ve been moving trailer loads of wood chips to cover our now-sunlit hillside. Goal is to prevent an explosion of weed growth on an un-mowable slope left by the arborists when we removed a bunch of invasive Norway Maple trees . I carved out a temporary level “notch” in the hillside to park the tractor and loaded trailer on the trips up the hill. I need the tire chains for traction (visible tracks in the pic) and I keep the mower deck and front weights mounted for extra confidence. (The trailer attaches to the below-rear-axle standard drawbar--also good.) Going down, I walk the empty trailer and drive the tractor in 1st with my foot holding the clutch pedal up firmly. Progress has been slow and exhausting so I’ll be hiring some workers to help me finish it off.

It’ll deliver to WI soon.

I see an A-60 in the background, are you keeping it or just holding it for Uncle Jim?

Sometimes, you don't get that choice. I'm currently working on creating ditches along my future driveway on our Ky property. I'm roughing them out with the backhoe on my MF GC 1720, then want to finish them off with the grader blade and my 8n. I just discovered Saturday that the grader blade for the 8n has a tilt function to go along with angle and offset adjustments. Perfect feature to form ditches. Howaeae, the bolts on the tilt adjustment are rusted solid. Probably have been for several decades. I first met this implement in the mid 90's the first time I owned this tractor. The grader blade was old and rusty then. I sold it in the early 2000's, then bought it back in '19 or '20. The grader blade came back with it. The guy i sold the tractor to used the grader blade to maintain the gravel parking lot around his warehouse. I'm 99.999% sure he never tilted the blade or even knew about the tilt adjustment. He did add some reinforcements to the blade and painted it black. All I had during this trip to work on this was a can of PB Blaster and a propane torch. Its been rusted for a looong time, so it will take time to break it loose.

Evening progress: Tail lights installed. Yes they are on top of the decal. PO drilled and placed a light there - long gone - so I reused holes to extent possible and covered up the torn decal...

1. Why can't the bankrupt cowboy complain? He has got no beef.

This is first set of hubs that I have ever had with 2 set screws besides the ones that came on the 2 520's I acquired a few months back. These hubs are a lot beefier than the older star type one set screw type, I figured the dimple would work better than trying to grind a flat on the axle. I got to thinking they needed a dimple or flat on axle for future disassembly. I will tell on myself though; I was so tickled with my hubs I forgot to put brake drum and band back on before driving around the barn . Funny as heck though when I went to stop and no brakes..

Continued to tinker with carb to address surging and today that issue was replaced with a runaway throttle problem...! Had not touched the governor arm / adjustment. When I went to full throttle it went way too high and no governor limits... Governor arm came out of adjustment - loose bolt. Adjusted and bam... running great! I think the governor arm was slipping on the shaft adding to the surge issue... Now runs with only a minor hint of surging when cold... warmed up it runs much better now. Tail lights arrive today. That's next...

My wife says she misses me… but her aim is getting better…😁

IMHO and experience... If you need a snowblower - get a two stage. They have the serious advantage of being able to operate at slower tractor ground speeds while having less tendency to load up. Not none.. less. Trina and I do basically what's outlined by several above. Nearly all snows nowadays get the plow blade. She absolutely loves moving snow. We can all agree "seat time" is excellent. Here, we don't use a Wheelhorse for mowing. We do use them 4 to 5 months a year for snow removal. We have to plan far ahead for much larger storms that don't melt. Our plowed area is a good strong 10 to 20 feet past the desired clearing zone. If we're home we would rather plow a large storm multiple times than use the snowblower once, then plow to scrape the surface clean. We are currently using the Ariens Commercial walk behind snowblower. I have a Wheelhorse Dual Stage one I'd like to try sometime. Perhaps this year and perhaps being mounted on the Briggs 20 HP Vanguard V twin powered C160-8.

Hello. It's Sept. 2026 and I just bought a new/unused snowblower without many parts. I transferred all I needed from an older worn out blower. I too ran into the chain length/ re-outing problem. The photo from "cleat" also solved my issue. New chain from TSC $29.99 and a new belt. The newer blower has no mounting post for the long lift tube from the tractor. So I will drill into the bottom plate on the blower and bolt in a 3/4" hex head bolt. I did add a plate above and below the spot of mounting the bolt. The old blower's bearings, chain and sprockets were worn, I'd bought it used years back. This site is sure helpful.

I'm simply curious about how @8ntrucks Ford grader rake/tilt adjustability mechanism was designed to work and hoping a couple of pictures would reveal that. It might be that it’s on a 3-point and adjusting the linkages yields the rake and tilt.

This is one of the best.in my opinion.

Just a few progress pictures on the truck…

I’ve owned this tractor twice. Bought it from the last guy who I sold it to. This time it’s in much better condition than it was when I first bought it the first time. It was a younger fella who really didn’t understand what he had. It was sitting outside and I asked him does it run and he starts it up and must’ve been a couple gallons of water came out of fan shroud. The steering wheel was all bent out of shape. I don’t know what happened here but anyway that’s all done now. I have a lot of spare parts. But it had a bad motor in it so luckily a friend of mine had a spare motor sitting on the shelf. So here’s a couple pics in a short video. I am happy with the way it turned out. IMG_1412.mov IMG_1413.mov

if you are interested in purchase of a 42 inch deck then as noted in this thread you should post on the Classified Wanted menu tool bar - always helps to post related specific info - your location - how far you are willing to drive to pick one up - $ budget ( or you may to keep that private and limit your pricing communication to the private I.M. thread ) ---- or if you will pay for delivery, or shipping etc -- rarely will someone ship a deck although it is done occassionally? also as an aside -- if you have a deck with age issues sometimes you can buy a damaged deck and pair it with another poor conditon mower and make into a functioning deck -- or like done by many wh owners you can do a deck rehab - which can be simple rehab, or more serious restore to a newer condition. Here are some sample photos if you want to do a rehab of deck you have?

Agree with Eric - I run 30 weight all year. Plow with a C-105 and a C-125. Let them warm up and go...

Started separating the Herd for transportation to @JCM & @Raven 's annual North Berwick Meet n Greet.

I may have the dash plate. I will have to look. That screen will be hard to find. I made mine.

HAPPPPY BIRTHDAY

Happy Birthday...

Molasses can safely remove rust from iron and steel through a slow chelation process, leaving the underlying metal intact. We have all heard the phrase, "slower than molasses in January," guess this substantiates it. One thing is for sure, if you didn't have an insect problem before, you would after doing this method of rust removal.