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I added the Kohler manual to my post above. This manual has great step by step instructions for disassembly and assembly. When you look through the pug hole on a flat head engine, you are looking at or between the valves, you can not turn the camera enough to see down the bore. Look at the pic below, the plug hole is over the two smaller holes for the valves. Under side of the head.

Do we have any here?

Heading out on the Chesapeake Bay for blue crabs and stripers. 47F and 10mph ENE Brr Pics to follow,,,I hope.

A recent poll found that just over 40% of Americans consider themselves political pundits. This is interesting, because the same poll found that just under 15% of Americans know what the word pundit means. ---- A rabbi, a pundit and a priest once decided to put their skills to the test, so they challenged each other...the challenge was who could convert a bear They all met a few days later.....the pundit and priest were ok but the rabbi was in a full body cast... so started the pundit...guess what...I read the Gita to the bear.... and now he is a pious Hindu The priest says...guess what, I read the bible to my bear....it brought tears to his eyes...he immediately had himself baptised now he is a devout christian.... Finally the Rabbi mutters....."shouldve left the circumcision for later"

Don't know why Ed Dog is so crabby then ...

Time for me to move. My wife won't allow any per day.

Finally getting back to this one. No crank, so I went through all the electrical cleaning connections and coating with dielectric grease. I had replaced the solenoid with a 4 terminal. Learned the unused 4terminal needs to be grounded. PO had removed all safety switches and still no crank. Remembered the voltage regular connection. That was it, the terminals were loose on the meter. So it cranked, but no spark. I had previously cleaned the points an did a static timing. I had voltage to the points, but they just didn’t act right. I finally replaced them and still no spark. I was trying to read points with my meter so I had my wife come out ant turn the key. Bingo blue spark in the spark tester I still had connected. Of course she asked why I’d been working on it all day PS I need some new black plastic pieces that hold the terminals on the key switch and regulator. Does anyone have a part name/number and vendor? @953 nut @Racinbob So now I’m ready to put gas in it tomorrow. I’m really curious how it will run with my previous leakdown test and not great valve seating. I have the valve and seat grinder I bought a while back, but I wanted to see how it would run. It’s been 50 years since I used a valve and seat grinder. Trying to fix a previous marginal seat grinding may not be the best place to start. I have a junk block I’ve been meaning to practice on.

Why is it the first thing that come to mind here is The Squonky?!?!?

Oops, I meant STRIPER. I realize Ed can only deal with one STRIPPER per day.

I just modified, cut off 1 end, of a regular oil filter wrench so that I could just spin the filter off without having to reposition the wrench. I added the bolts so I could push the filter off the wrench easily.

The internet connection at my farm was really poor, so I moved the modem to the barn. Now I have stable wifi

Really hard to tell through the spark plug hole, mainly because you can't look into the cylinder. A better way to know is to take the head off. This allows you to inspect and measure the cylinder bore. I have not encountered too many K model Kohlers that were not worth rebuilding yet. Engine not worth rebuilding - 1 - There is a window (hole) in the side of the block where insides exited. 2 - The bore is more than .030 over sized already. 3 - Water intrusion has rusted the insides beyond repair. Get the bore and crank pin measured before ordering any parts so you know what you will need. One source for parts https://www.ebay.com/itm/143366218290 You will most likely pay about the same amount for machining as you do for the parts listed above. The Kohler manual does a great job of walking you through the rebuild process from start to finish. https://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/tp_2379.pdf

Sally was in the Fox and Hounds at Newbridge last Saturday night, when this really ugly looking guy walked into the bar. She told me later: "The wierdo came over to the bar and pinched my but. Then he had the nerve to demand, 'Give me your number, sexy.'" I replied, "Have you got a pen?" He smiled and said, "Yes." I replied, "Well you better get back to it, before the farmer notices you're missing."

I have had good success using 90 degree mounted stones, first coarse, then fine, to dress the small imperfections in the valve seat (usually the exhaust.) IF the seat is really bad, it gets replaced. Using the mounted stone method takes proper guided tooling - it is NOT a job for a cordless pistol drill and a "Here, hold my beer". I am fortunate to have a ShopSmith machine with a tilt table. Setup vertically, it has a throat opening of almost 3 feet. I use a proper sized reamer in the drill chuck to locate the valve guide, clamp the block and proceed with material removal. No pictures, sorry. Using either method - cutting & lapping the seat tightens up the valve clearance and that must be addressed too.

I have not used that exact brand, but I have used that style many times and they work great.. Neway makes one of the better kits, this also comes with a bigger price tag.

September 24, 1991, "Under the Bridge" was a massive hit for the Red Hot Chili Peppers, released in February/March 1992 as a single from their 1991 album Blood Sugar Sex Magik, becoming a signature song exploring frontman Anthony Kiedis's struggles with loneliness and drug addiction.

The early Wheel Horses didn't have any safety switches. Ya either clutched it or made sure it was in neutral.

This should be moved to the classified section and to comply with the rules, the price must be listed. One of the mods can move it for you.

B

Apparently, this type of meme parodying The Oregon Trail game from the 80’s is trending on Facebook and Instagram. I thought it could use a Wheel Horse touch.

Tractor in storage has had the diesel fuel in the trans for a week now. Steering wheel bed liner spray experiment didn't work so well. It clumped up and looked cracked. Sanding it back down and will use automotive urethane paint on it. got the steering bevel gear and the dog point screws. Getting cooler, now to get more done on this tractor. Need to get the steering box back in on the Ariens S16H and then back on this Suburban. We'll see if I can get the forks aligned and be able to shift it. Looking at the parts to rebuild the tranny and replace the seals now. Dave

It’s definitely on the list to check. For now the goal is to get it mechanically sound enough to be used as a worker and then in 6-7 years, teach my son (he’s due in February) the basics of mechanics and go a little more in depth. The engine continues to soak. Time source some new tires and probably a new shifter/seat.

No but thought about getting one a few times. Always got by with a good lapping. Achto and I have a buddy that lucked out and got a valve cutter/grinder for short money at auction so if ever needed just take it to him. It's a vintage setup but useable. If I did many motors I would certainly have my own.

Please post in the classified section, and follow the classified rules, including posting a price. I'm locking this thread.

Yes it is. I find it's always a bit of a gamble with lighting.. every lightsource is classified along lumens instead of watts these days. With incandescant bulbs brand A and brand B would produce very similar light as long as the wattage is the same. With LED and the lumens it's a different story.. Things like focal point, color temperature, wattage and lumens all have to be taken into account. On the plus side, if you've still got old school switches and wiring that work, you can have way more light on the same machine than what was there previously.

I agree witb all of the above. The only thing I'll add is the 2 stage is a beast to move around, over 300 pounds. I have a dedicated spot in my shed so I can drive the tractor and blower in, and drop the blower for the summer. Come winter just manuever the tractor over the blower and reinstall. Of course if you have room for a dedicated snow machine....

Here's the pics I promised.

Question: Why didn't Noah do much fishing while he was on the ark? Answer: Because he only had two worms!

Thanks. I’ve done some research on the science of grading unpaved roads (and yes, there is a LOT of research there). The normal crown is at 4º and swales are at 8º (a swale being a shallow ditch for carrying water away from the roadbed). Exceptions exist, of course, for local conditions, depending on road material composition, expected precipitation, gradient steepness, and vehicle size/weight. During visits to Costa Rica and Panama I observed roadside ditches with 45º pitched sides to depths of 3-4 feet with many being concrete lined--when it rains there, it pours!

What do you call a VW bus at the top of a long steep hill? A miracle.

I use this stuff (3 1/2 to 4 qts a change with filter) but if you want and have other 10w-30 oils in engines etc make it easy and match the oil to what you use. 2 gallon $40, has the additives for hydraulics / gears. I use it also be cause I have a couple loaders and it works great as hydraulic fluid for those applications and only need one fluid for both hydro and loaders hydraulics.

Thirty plus years of Marriage can be seen the same way.

There was once a very successful farmer from Texas who started gaining interest in his ancestry. After doing some digging, he traced his lineage back to a small town in Ireland. And lo and behold, they were a family of farmers. So he packed his bags and took a trip to Ireland to visit the small town to see if he could track down some of his kin. After landing in Dublin, and driving an hour outside of the city, he stopped in a pub to grab a drink and start asking around about his family. The Texan sat down, ordered a pint, and started talking to the Irishman sitting at the bar. After explaining his story and the purpose of the trip, the Irishman responded, “You don’t say! I’ve never heard of your family, but I’m a farmer as well. Tell me, what’s it like farming in Texas?” “Gladly,” the Texan said, “farming in Texas has been quite lucrative for me. If you started out in the morning, and drove west, you could drive all day before you reached the end of my property. And if you started the next day and drove East all day, you wouldn’t reach the end of my property. Same thing North and South, you could drive either direction all day and you wouldn’t reach the end of my farmland.” “Ahh, I know what you mean,” said the Irishman, “I’ve got a truck like that as well.”

1200 well-focused lumens is a pretty serious light!

Update and fix: took a closer look at the mower and this time I noticed not only the belt from the mower deck twisted but the drive belt for driving also came off the pulley. It was riding on the engine shaft thus provided some driving capability.. put the belt back on, un-twisted the mowerdeck belt and it was good to go again. Mowed like a champ.. until.. I ran out of daylight Now I know mowing in the dark isn't the best option soo.. I added a light today. Not sure how useful this will really be but I guess we'll find out. Can you spot it? All 2" by 2" but also 1200lm. Small but mighty. Not bad for $10,-

Interesting little machine. Those front rollers on the deck will probably be a deterrent, since they will be pushing the grass down where you won't get as good of a cut.

I had a factory set on a 1277 so these are from memory, “might be a bit different!” (Standard 12v tractor lights) Used a knuckle, that’s what I call it, on the end of a 30” x 5/8” steel rod, drilled tapped 3/8-16 utilizing a stud and cap nut. Two wire assembly to assure a solid ground Crimp on connection for hassle free hood removal There’s two 3/8-16 bolted to a threaded rectangular plate between the frame, mimicking factory Closer look at the stainless hardware, that is a metric thread in the knuckle, (euro part) The soft bend sweeps buy the cradle front tightly, has to be just so, plumb to clear I preferred the standard 12v light assembly with options to twist in all directions, do not care for the little bug eye looking factory assemblies! The 5/8 hot rolled steel can be formed quite easily by hand just make identical measurements on both sides. Basic & simple See the hood is very close and the button I put in from a very unstable method used by who-ever owned this hood, bought at big show over a decade ago! Don’t find these as often anymore but I perused eBay, they were actually IH Red!

If you have enough solid metal under and around the height-adjustment bracket, then I think you could get by with fiberglass and resin. If the height-adjustment bracket has lost much of its support, then if it were me I'd opt for welding. IF it's just a matter of expediency and looks don't matter, then a welded repair should be pretty easy. If appearances are important, it will take a bit of work to do a nice-looking welded repair, which would involve cutting back the rust until you hit good solid metal, and then cutting and shaping the insert(s) to match the opening and the original contours. Some extra strips of metal could be welded across the seams underneath the deck if extra strength is needed. Shaping mild steel sheet isn't terribly difficult for small pieces. If you don't have fancy equipment like a metal stretcher/shrinker, English wheel, bending brake, body hammers, dollies, etc., you can get by with a vise, a leather bag full of steel shot to pound against (or just some soft wood with a depression in it, like @8ntruck suggested) and a couple of sizes of peening hammers. Here are some photos of one of my more recent sheet metal repairs. It's not a mowing deck, but the approach is basically the same. BTW, I'm NOT a professional body man, but I like doing some sheet metal work from time to time. Before (bad welds and repairs by previous owners, rusted and cracked metal): Disassembled and chipped off enough old paint and body putty to assess how extensive the damage was, which revealed several cracks, rust, and bad brazing work: Straightened out a few spots, cut the cracked metal and rust spots back to solid metal, and started welding a few places. Not all of the repair areas are shown in these photos. New metal shaped, welded in, and rough ground: After a few small dabs of Bondo, sanding, and priming: The result after painting and reassembly (plus a new badge): If you haven't done sheet metal restoration before, fixing the deck could be a fun little project.

My son doesn’t come on here anymore, but here is a 704 that he has been making into a 4x4. complete scratch built axle, and a lot of lathe and milling…. I’ll try sort some build pics out!

Who was it that posted a picture of a disassembled dryer last week?? This morning after church I remembered one of my honey do was to checkout the squeak in the dryer. Right rear tire is flat with a bad bearing. I ordered all 4 tires and a belt off the Jungle site. Back to tractors, I got the brake put back together with a new spring. While I was there I freed up the clutch adjustment trunnion for future adjustment Also slipped the rear hitch pin back in with some copper never seize. Also freed up the PTO adjustment trunnion The rubber fuel tank grommet gave a good fight. I finally boiled it in water in the microwave for 3 minutes and it squeezed right in. Gas tank reinstalled new fuel line run to the front. Of the tractor. No picture, but I checked the valve tappets and found the Intake at 0.015 and readjusted to 0.009 in spec. The exhaust tappet was tight at 0.010 so adjusted it to 0.018 in spec. I wasn’t going to pull the blower housing and flywheel right now. But I couldn’t find the timing mark through the little hole and figured it probably needed cleaning behind it anyway. A hand Impact Screw Driver is the best way to get those rusted flywheel screen screws out. Thankfully after putting tension on the puller it came of with one sharp blow of my 3lb hand sledge With this tractor having been used as a mower I was really surprised it wasn’t very dirty behind the flywheel. But I gave the stator a gentle cleaning with a tooth brush and spray electrical cleaner. I also cleaned out the cylinder fins from this back side. Not a great picture, but the steering wheel hub is JB welded back together.

Thanks @JCM and @Retired Wrencher There’s a few thing I’m not doing not like the left rear seal. That hub is on tight so I want to choose that battle when I have plenty of time. Didn’t get any tractor work done Saturday. One of my sons bought a playscape kit. So 3 of us spent a solid 10 hr day working on it. The instructions are 100 pages and the numbers on some of the parts are hard to read. In addition to the main frame pictured we have several sub wall an other panes put together. It uses star bit bolts for assembly in 2 - 5@ lengths. It kept One person busy finding parts and bolts for the next piece all day. We actually had a 4th helper. The black thin once he shoulder is a dewalt drill. She’s inspecting our work too.

Don't forget that our new governor is only allowing one stripper per day. Good luck!