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Reminds me of driving in my first snowstorm. I was heading to the gas station in my pickup with no weight in the bed, thought I’d impress my friend in the passenger seat. Gave it a little gas, thought I’d drift around in bend in the road but lost control. Slid across the oncoming lane (thank goodness nobody was coming!) hit the telephone pole with the passenger door. We didn’t get hurt, we were probably only going 15-20 mph. So I drove back home and went in the house. First thing my dad says is we have no power in the house. Then he said, and this is the part I’ll never forget “ First snowstorm of the year and our power is out. I’ll bet some A hole hit a pole and knocked out the power!” I then had to sheepishly admit it was me!

As a Senior Citizen it is my obligation to keep the medical employed. After four days in the hospital I am now home and well, God is good. Details to follow.

Where I used to live all we needed was snow forecast for a few days out and someone would be kind enough to take out the pole across the street, and our power with it.

Seat pivot brackets and bushings ready to install. Seat pivot plate ready for pivot brackets to be installed. Seat pivot bracket with bolt and washers slid on. I add a washer to the inside to space the bracket out slightly so it does not rub on the pivot plate. Seat pivot bracket bushing greased with silicone grease and installed into pivot plate. Right seat pivot bracket and bushing installed. Left seat pivot bracket and bushing installed. Seat pivot bracket bolts torqued to 200 in/lb.

OK. I'm in mentor mode now with the robotics team. Gotta ask how well you think that worked out? The next question is what did you learn?

Anyone heard from @953 nut ? I'm missing his daily post.

Yes Parts n more has them https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product-category/hydraulics/page/3/ Also a member here has/had them @lynnmor

Yesterday I was in town and saw they began to demolish the old Baptist Church, daycare and gym buildings. There is a large commercial playscape at the daycare that about 25 years old, but is in pretty good condition since it had a shade structure over it. The is a excellent Nonprofit called the ARK. https://arkofhighlandlakes.org that service our greater Highland Lakes area. One of their many programs is a large duplex housing community which has program to mentor and train families to transition them from the street and poverty. The director had previously said they would like to have a playscape for this property. So it hit me and I got the wheels turning to try and recycle this playcape. The demo contractor project manage was agreeable, with a few conditions that we could agree to and a fairly fast removal time line. Thankfully this is a large property and it will take them 3-4 weeks to get enough dumpsters for all the building material. The ARK directors asked if i would take on this removal project and temporary storage. I was able to contact the playscape manufacture and got and original layout drawing and a few removal recommendation. They said they can provide new parts for a few of the domed windows and parts some vandals had dammaged. This morning I took some tools and tested removing bolts from the main frame which went well. Unfornatualy the short Allen bolts with the flat round domed flush nuts on the panels just spun when I tried to remove them. If anyone has a suggest how to get these out, there is roughly a 100 of them. My one idea is to get a battery powered grinder and tried to cut a screwdriver slot in the domed head or grind the head off without damaging the pannel. There are about 20 post or legs with concrete footings. I dug down at a few of them and found there is about 1 ft. of gravel fill above the concrete footing. The demo contractor offered to provide a machine (skid steer or excavator) to pull them out when we had everything else removed. I have two thoughts on post removal which hopefully can be done without bending up the post or other legs One is to dig down to the top of the post to get to the concrete so a choker sling can be attached to pull up right at the top of the concrete. The other is get a jack hammer and hit the footings around the post to see if the concrete can be broken up some. (which would be a lot of work) The ARK will help me get a couple of volunteers for the disassemble/removal. My first order of busines is making some sketches with a numbering routine to mark all the parts for reassemble. I thinking of using a paint pen for marking, and appreciate any suggestions for marking that will last a while. I don't know if we will get the shade structure as someone else (a demo boss?) was looking at it. So this will keep me busy for awhile. then installation will be an even bigger future project.

Seat pivot plate ready to bolt to seat assembly. Seat bumper, fender washer, and bolt ready to install. Seat pivot plate bolted to seat assembly. All 8 bolts tightened. I have the seat set to full rearward position.

This is my plan for most of the day: https://www.autoshowharrisburg.com/ We get free tickets most years, so we go up, get breakfast, and go to the show for a few hours. The kids like that they can get in and touch the cars, I like that they aren't in front of a screen and that we are inside.

@Beap52 I seem to be the one in my family who now has all that kind of stuff. Other family members keep dropping off pictures, old newspaper clippings etc off and it’s driving my wife nuts! She keeps saying what are we going to do with all this stuff? And when are we going to properly sort it out and/or even look at it? I’m hoping to have a night with my relatives so we can look at old slides soon. Seems like it would be a nice way to spend a cold winter’s night.

Not to beat a dead horse, but you can add all the weight you want, if the tire isn't able to grip the surface well enough it won't do a lick of good. 500 lb man can't run any better on a sheet of ice than a 100 lb man can.

Sounds like you have a stock B-80 like my 1977 B-80/8 speed

Might be difficult to drill if they just spin If grinding the slot doesn't work maybe grind an X into the heads and chisel / break them off. Probably more control and less heat than just grinding the entire heads all the way off .

With the correct bit, drilling the heads off would be the better option. Then use a small pipe wrench with good sharp jaws to remove the remaining studs. Kudos to you Jim for saving it from the landfill.

A worthy project! It's usually pretty easy to remove the heads from hex-socket-head screws by drilling, since the socket helps start the bit on-center. If they're hardened screws, you'll want to use cobalt-steel bits, sized about equal to the thread size. Hold the edge of the head with a vise-grip if it wants to spin. If you happen to drill one a touch off center, a light tap with a hammer and chisel (or prying with a screwdriver in the drilled hole) should pop it off. I suppose you could grind the heads off, but if there's any plastic attached, the heat from grinding could cause some melting. If your drill bits are sharp, there shouldn't be much heat.

Gotta get all you us ole timers on Karl's emergency call list. Never know when you might climb up in your tree stand and forget to come home.

@Howard dellapuca @Wheel-N-It Are you able to contact Richard, He has not been on the forum for several days.

I was just thinking of this. Hope all is well @953 nut

Yes, no response yet.

Anyone P.M.? Been awfully cold here. for here I mean. Hopefully nursing a cold in the hot bathtub with a hot whiskey with lemon and ginger!

Oh O

I hope all is well.

Same, noticed we didn’t get one yesterday.

Me three

Me too.

I found this from an Aries and it has the same Welch Style connector with a roller pin setup. It's local for sale. I'm going to see how this look...hope not too funny but if it functions for me, may be worth it? I'll send some pics after.

I have a set of 4 link V bar chains that you can have. They were on 23-9.5-12 AG tires. I switched to rubber chains and turf tires because the V bars were too rough on my asphalt drive. I live about an hour north of you in Walled Lake Michigan

I pulled the gears out of two of my 14 HP motors. They seem to run fine. I opened up a 14 that was on a John Deere 214 and it came factory without them.

One could also grind in very brief stages, partially grinding each screw head in succession, which would create a cooling pause in between each stage to avoid overheating and melting any plastic. However, I think drilling is the best option. I believe it would be the fastest method and least likely to overheat the screws. Judging from the photo, it looks (to me) like the screws have a head profile similar to THIS ONE, in which case I think a vise grip could secure them IF they happen to spin while drilling.

Yes sir love it she move the snow

i sent a pm to WHX, hopefully i can get some chains from them

He better make up for his daily posts he missed!

Well that might rule out the outage theory. Maybe somethin goin on with his missus? Its just not like him to go three days without reporting in. I got his business card here somewhere & pretty sure it has his phone # on it. Might be the same # Coach has? I don't know if he texts or not last I knew he had a flip phone with a rotary dial on it. Anybody think we should call Johnny Law and have them do a wellness check?

I hope everything is ok

The wide ones are on my snow-plow machine, with 75#’s pounds of cast weight on each. They work great and I don’t run chains on my paved drive. I do keep the air pressure low, keeps the tire more squishy and pliable. The narrow set are on a tractor that mainly sees mowing duty. They are great for that and DO NOT tear up my lawn. I have used this machine occasionally to haul firewood from the woods in “mud season” and they are better than turfs, but can get mud packed and then they are like racing slicks. The sticky mud does not eject well from the depths of the tread. These pics are the wide ones on my plow tractor.

@Rob R call me if you need an extra hand, might want to get this going for this weekend!

I agree... sadly.

This is - quite frankly - unacceptable. But I digress....

I don't have a good warm place for a cure though is my problem. I was aiming for day time temps min about 45 degrees and nighttime temp above freezing. The next two days are the only ones I have for the next 2 weeks. If I get desperate I may pull the wife's car out of the garage and use a propane heater to warm it up. My neighbor has a heated shop (it is a business) but I will probably do the engine work over there and probably the transmission as well. He is the one with the press that helped me get the steering wheel shaft out.

My condolences!!!!

It's actually my Daughter I have 3 girls haha The oldest is 5 then a 4 year old and a 2 year old.

Likely you could leave it alone. Just have the steering wheel 1/4" higher.

I'm making a lot of posts and not much progress lol Got it sanded down. Gotta fill hopefully just one more time.

Thanks for the positivity guys I appreciate it!! I am definitely spending more time on this hood, then I thought I would. But I also realize its the focal point of these tractors, it's also what has the most paint showing. So today got all of the paint stripped off, cleaned it really good and got some bondo on it. It's been a little while since I did bondo last, so it might take a little more sanding, but it's also hard to get it on the small curved areas as well. Shiny hood!!! I was slightly tempted to clear coat it and leave it as is, lol!

I think I got the hood to a point I don't think it beating on it more is going to help. Before After

My B80 also has a K341, but that was installed by the previous owner. So would the combo of the 8 speed and the K341 make this a C160 without headlights?

What about the factory 8 speed operation decal on the frame, that appears to have a patina matching the rest of the tractor?