Leaderboard

They are limited to what they can do but come in handy for many tasks. Not a big deal to install and remove.

Same technique for mine... 3rd season and going great!

its not mine. (But could be!). I know of the guy with the FEL and he want to sell it. It needs a seat. Ok, what’s it worth? A 93 314H, I didn’t see it run, it was out of gas. But, let’s assume it runs. It’s a Kiki way loader and it’s got non leaking lines. I think the lines are original. The muffler is whole! I mean, lets assume its got oil to be changed, fuel lines and an air filter to be changed. Shoot me all the questions and I’ll try to answer them! I mean, I’ll make sure the loader works!

Did you try pulling harder?

The grease goes out the bottom anyway - there is a blow-out from the OE machining process. I figure the packed shallow grooves help to smear the grease.

I decided to add shallow grooves on the steering shaft to retain grease under the welded-on gear. The coiled pin in the steering wheel did not want to budge, so I had to leave the upper end assembled. I had to do some creative fixturing but added five equally spaced shallow (.030 deep) grooves inline with the root of every other tooth of the gear using a ball endmill.

Actually @JCM I’m not talking about the Kwik-Way, my bad ! Mine is a Wheel Horse loader which I believe is actually made by Ark. I think I only took it off once before realizing it was easier to leave it on and just get more tractors for different attachments!!

The first few years I had just one tractor to do everything, I could install or remove the loader under a half hour. The front axle and spindles should be upgraded to handle the load, the 520H tractors have what is needed. Also. gear reduction steering will help a lot, the weight really makes it difficult to steer.

Ive plowed 3 times Ed and no problems yet. I just hit the button real quick and it lifts about 3 inches. Which is what my manual lift did. It has the wireless remote. As soon as you let off the button it stops. Fingers crossed.

I put a winch on the dedicated snow machine. I hurt for 2 days anymore using the manual lift. I do about 3/8 mile of drives.

28 degrees? the heat is in the tools! my shop is 50/60.....that is why not as much gets done!

Plastic scraper, flat blade screwdriver (being careful to not take the paint off), rags and elbow grease. No cleaning chemicals or even water. This spring I’ll remove the fender and guards and all and it’s get a proper pressure washing.

So you basically removed all that paint protector! LOL Amazing how deep that stuff was. And BTW you missed a spot!

Well I finished the steering wheel mods today. Tomorrow will be reassembly- at least some of it. I raised the steering wheel about 2.5 inches. Might be too much but that's easily fixed if needed. So I decided to support the upper shaft with not one but two bearings. I welded a couple inches of 1 inch steel pipe on both sides of the factory bushing holder. I also placed a needle bearing in the bottom and a regular wheel bearing on top. The bearings are about 4 inches apart, which stiffens the whole column quite a bit. Not sure why the paint buggered up, but it looks good enough. Also added a grease fitting to keep those bearings slicked up. I cut the upper steering shaft and drilled it to accept an extension that was from a Toro Groundsmaster. Then I added the other half of the shaft with about 1.5 inches of separation. That raised the steering wheel the full 2.5 inches above what it was previously. Of course I needed to have a sleeve of some type to make the steering wheel and upper console match up. Luckily I had some aluminum stock left over so I turned a couple down on my lathe and added a setscrew to each. Not perfect, but looks decent. I also replaced the roll pin with a bolt with spacers. I bleeping hate roll pins! The steering is much tighter than it was before with almost no play. What little there is comes from the reduction unit, and it's as snug as I can get it without it binding. Huge improvement!

Wished I could remember where it came from and why I didn't use it on my 701 resto. I guess it was the challenge of restoring 701's

Unfortunately my services were required at work on Saturday so it was kind of an unproductive weekend for me. A big Thank You to @WHX?? for the nice steering wheel. It cleaned up very nicely. I also painted a few small items for the engine today. Fly wheel, governor arm pieces, & little trinkets & doo dad's. I also got side tracked with another project. I'm helping a friend set up his Simple-city with a Magnum 16 Kohler. This was a yank start engine that we converted to electric start. Fits perfectly in the frame. He carved out an adapter that bolts to the flywheel so that the drive shaft can be connected. A few little kinks to work out on this yet but it is coming along well.

The steering on my GT-14 FEL I got from @fast88pu a few years ago at the Big Show was skipping teeth and unpredictable I investigated and found the housing support for the steering shaft was broken. I have a parts GT-14 that had a good support on it so I "borrowed" it Top one in picture is broken. Bottom one is the good one. It came off the donor easily but it's a tight fit getting it on the FEL tractor. I found the starter shield on the shroud is in the way. I started to remove it for better access and it won't come off I removed all the bolts I found that held it on and it wiggles but won't pull off

I wouldn't have thought so, but it's in the parts manual for the D-160.

Through ice and sleet and snow. They made it here.

Agreed. Follow the @SylvanLakeWH rule!!

Wow, never heard of such! Yay I learnt a new ting today!

OK thanks that the part number I have also just wasn't sure about it. its like about 5/8 wide I seen on a post someone was using a 1/2 wide belt . id rather not used aftermarket.

From my experience, once the loader is on that’s it. It becomes a dedicated loader tractor. You’re not switching attachments like you would mower to tiller, or tiller to plow. It’s a process to take that off or put it on. That being said, go get it and add another one to your collection!!

I believe I have those items here.

Does it come with weight box with both axle brackets ? How about the 2 loader stands if you want to remove it ? That way you could drive into it to disconnect or reconnect .Makes it much easier.

More like insulation… gotta keep that hydro pump warm for best performance and long life !

Does buying one count?

Good job. Looking great !

I do not like the violent sudden engagement of electric PTOs i prefer to feather a manual. Started working on a new to me Electro 12 that had an electric PTO. Look at the PTO key. I have seen damaged keys but this one obviously beat itself over the years. I am not sure what implement she will be married to but I may put on a manual PTO.

Front axle ready to be installed. Front axle pin ready to be installed. I made this up at my old work place and it uses a cotter pin instead of an E clip for the secondary retainer. 3/4" pin is stainless steel and the tab is carbon steel. Tractor ready for front axle to be installed. Front axle installed. Front axle pivot pin bolt installed and torqued to 17 ft/lb. Front axle pivot pin stainless cotter pin and thin shim washer installed. Tractor assembly as of today.

Actually done this yesterday but forgot to post it. Mounted new Deestones tri rib’s on 73 12hp-8 also new front wheel brgs., made up a short frame snow plow, put snow plow and bracket on 857. Took 1257 home and 857 to Moms and waited on snow that never came.

Aw, thank you both!

He'd be welcome.

Me either but there's over half a dozen of em here.

Made a wonderful roast dinner in our 1930's Wagner dutch oven.... then made 4 loaves of sourdough bread! The house sure smelled GOOD all day!!!!

Doing some mid season maint/inspection on the 702. Relocated exhaust because it was originally turned down towards the snowblower controls. Used whatever pipe/connectors I had. Didn't wanna drive out in the rain to get parts......all the cars are washed & clean in garage 😆 Also installed some rear wheel weights that I cant even remember where they came from. There's only 2 bolt holes in weights & of course only 1 hole lines up. They really fit well into the rim tightly so I think just the 1 bolt is enough because they they fit so good.

Keep us posted on what you come up with. This one's in the shop now for multiple hydraulic leaks. Maybe try and clean up some hose mess. I think it was @Handy Don was asking about hard lines once and at the time I thought he was nutz. He ain't lookin too crazy now. Also fuel delivery issues including either electric pump or your route.

Yes, just pump it a few times and you will see the fuel filter fill up then you can start the tractor. It should start quickly at this point. You can then remove it and install the regular fuel cap. And as a bonus, you only need one so long as all your tractors use the same fuel cap.

OK. I bought a 4" Screwless Toolmaker's Vise - finish ground on all surfaces. I mount this vise at an angle in the 5" Milling Machine vise. There ate thru-holes down the entire side - used a 3/8 rod to help set the angle, along with a 3/4" diameter steel dowel in the quill to line up the hole. Narrow C clamps hold the lower part of the casting firmly up against the non-movable back jaw. Vise comes with vertical and horizontal V grooves for round stock work too. Fly cut the top to clean, bored & reamed for the bushing. Drilled thru the bushing wall at the grease fitting. Last step, not shown, I drill & tap the lower bushing hole for a grease fitting too.

NT TO THANK ALL OF MY SUPPORTERS WOW WHAT I HAVE SEEN AND LEARNEDNOW I UNDER STAND HOW EVERY THING'S WORK. I AM GOING TO TRY AGAIN AFTER SEVERAL DAY'S SOAKING WITH BLaster..................i think my next move will be to lay t i have never used a forum beforehe tractor on it's side so i do not have to lay down and fight the problem!!!!!!!!!!!!! I NEVER USED A FORUM BEFORE, THANK'S AGAIN TO ALL...THERE STILL IS A LOT OF GOOD PEOPLE OUT THERE JACKM

Never found any specific torque for the WH Electro PTO... and I had to rpalce teh Electric PTO on a JD GT235..It did not want o come off at all. Was a real PIA. Working from teh bottom up and no nice push off like the WH PTOs. You basically destroy it to remove it.

This thread is really worthy of being pinned for quick reference!!!! Using the information and directions @pfrederi posted it was a cinch to break my electric PTO down. Unfortunately the larger bearing is the one that to this point no one has located a direct replacement for. However, the one I pulled out is still in great shape and I may go the route of using alternative bearing and try shims. I took the opportunity to sand blast the rust, acid etch prime and paint the 3 pieces and once dry, will re-assemble, replacing the smaller outer bearing at a minimum. Kudo's to pfrederi for posting this process and the bearing information!!!!

Found this pic on the internet.....I was correct.....Warner Electric made them.

The bore isn't perfect but it isn't that bad. It is the one on the right. Bottom line I only have 2 with 1-1/8" hubs so it is proabably going back on with a new Key. Note the key itself is almost sheared but the keyway in the crank looks good. New Key time

Next step is to separate the pulley from the hub. I have both 1" and 1-1/8" PTOs The only difference is the hub. They use the same bearings Field coil and Clutch plate. EDIT:: First you have to remove the two snap rings inner and outer. See last picture I forgot this step. Inner is an eaton and needs the special pliers or 4 letter words and some luck. The outer one you can pry in and off with a screw driver. END EDIT This time thread the pusher bolt in from the back of the unit. Again make sure to fully engage the threads. Again slam the unit down on the anvil until the pulleys drop down (some Kroil PB blaster Between the inner race and the hub may help Picture 1. Picture 2 shows them apart. You can now press out the bearings if you are replacing them. The small bearing in the field coil is readily available for about $8. 6204 is bearing size you want one sealed on both sides. On one of my units they staked it in so it will come out hard. I used hydraulic press. I guess you could use a hammer and appropriate arbor but I would be afraid of damaging the field coil. Picture 3 shows the old and new bearing. I inserted new bearing with a hand press. After break we will remove the big bearing which may or may not still be available (I should know in a couple of days). In any event you could always clean and repack the original after you get it out.

I will do this in a couple of posts...(so I don't confused) I am disassembling 3 WH Electric PTOs. I assume youhave already removed from teh tractor using a pusher bolt. 5/8NC or 7/8NC or 1"NC depending on the age of your PTO First picture are the tools i used Who ever made these for WH they were not consistent in the style of snap ring. The Eaton type require a special pliers or you will probably damage it (or your self removing it. The big internal snap ring on the right can be removed with a couple of screw drivers. Next step is to remove the electro magnet (field Coil). Note on older units with a 7/8 or 1" pusher there may be a snap ring you have to remove between the outer bearing and the field coil. Newer units do not use that. Thread the 5/8" nc bolt into the unit from the outside Picture 2 make sure the threads are fully engaged. Manual says use cement floor i used an anvil and proceed to slam the unit down on the bolt head several times...and I do mean slam.Picture 3. You may want to put a small amount of Kroil.PB Blaster in the seam between the inner bearing race and the PTO sleeve. After several hard slams the field coil will drop out Picture 4. You will then have 2 parts picture 5. Time for a coffeee break. More to follow

I think the one on right might be a bit jerky when engaging. I had never looked inside an Electric PTO before...Interesting

It may be in our minds as well because your car A/C unit cycles on and off as you drive with no ill effects.

Prefer the manual PTO's. There's just something "abrupt" when engaging the 'lectric PTO unlike "easing" the manual PTO into action. I like to spin my mower decks on slowly.

My Ford had an electric PTO. I tried to have the engine idled down when engaging the PTO no matter what it was connected to (I only had a mower deck and snow blower for it). I do like to be able to gently engage the PTO. My diesel tractor has a 2 stage clutch and I can slowly let it out and gently start things connected to it as well.