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More pictures of diesel it getting there

For years the doctor has been keeping eye on my PSA which at last test was 16.7. (Quite some time ago, doctor removed me from medicine (Finasteride) that I had been taking because the medicine artificially lowers PSA.) I just finished my 5th prostate biopsy. He took 18 snips focusing on three lesions that the MRI found. He just called and reported no cancer and wait 9 months before another prostate test. Good News!

Scored a 520H and a 312-8 today. Also got a Brinly plow, disk and an agrifab box blade. Almost drowned getting them it was absolutely pouring down the rain. Will get better pics later. The 312-8 is a 96 and purrs like a kitten, a little over 500hrs showing and supposed to be original. The 520 runs great but has to have just a hint of choke so probably stopped up carb. Shows a little over a 1000hrs and supposed to be right also. Cant get a handle on year model for 520 but it does have hydro and lift control on steering column, but has been converted to foot hydro control. Has 16-7.50s on swept forward front and 23-10.50s on back. Have pic of tag under seat but cant make heads or tails of it any suggestions on yr?

For the ones who do not know I have had this 1057 for almost three years. It is almost done. I have one leak where the fuel pump was. I ordered some plastic bushings for the hood. I have the carb dialed in runs smooth. Here is a short video. Feel free to ask anything that you would like to know about. Have a good day. IMG_1025.mov

Time to strap a set of 2 link Vee Bar chains and some weight on that helpless horse.

Check the bead where the tire meets the rim... is it seated uniformly all the way around?

The P engines crack there alot...my P220 was repaired by mig welding. I pulled the engine, thoroughly degreased it, took it to my buddys house, i had modified some old cheap welders vice clamps to hold the split sections closed. He wire wheeled the damage; welded about 3/8", ground it down, wire wheeled..welded another 3/8", etc etc..until both were welded up. I ran a bit down the holes as one was partly closed from welding. This was an opportunity to offset the hole slightly closer to the flywheel. I put on a new starter and used cheap feeler gauges to shim it until i liked the mesh pattern. Bad mesh is what usually causes it.

I call it the @Shynon special. He busted a lift cable at plow day and we had no spares. Lowell ain't exactly down the street. You shoulda seen what was on it.

Another way to narrow down the model year on a 520 is forward of the TORO decal the model designation is red on the 1990 91 & 92 . 93 went white as shown in these two pictures. @sqrlgtr

Two of my favorites. 1990 0n the 520-H Great tractors

I suppose you could bend a rim by over-tightening the wheel weights - but I'd be more inclined to think the hub and/or keyway is the issue. Based on the video, I don't think it is a bent axle or bearing issue (though it could be). First check I would do is get it off the ground and see if you can wobble the wheel. Or remove the wheel and see if the hub is rotating true. Use something stationary on the floor touching the hub - as the motion could be minimal at the hub, but become exaggerated when watching the entire wheel.

I doubt that would be it. Check the hub & key.

Did it always do this or did it just start? Did you do anything like a new belt or other adjustment that caused it? Is this a new to you tractor? A 953/1054 is a bit different animal than other models. There is a long piece of metal that goes under the bottom of the belt make sure that that is still in place. Item 62 and item 68 as Squerl mentioned. Make sure # 68 is adjusted properly. You might have to zoom in on it in my pic. Check the rail on the inside of the belt guard too. The Tractor 1964 1054 SN IPL Wiring #A-7136.pdf in case you don't have it.

If they really are 10 ply, i wish you all the best, i mounted some 26x12x12 8ply that i had to use a front loader to push the rim into the tire, then flip it and push the tire down past the rim...still took a few hours each. Rides like its solid rubber with 5psi.

Words of wisdom, learned through personal experience!

I luv talking with my Amish neighbors. On of my favorites came from Annie when I stopped and told her I had caught a skunk in my live trap and took it to the woods. Her response " Did ya make him dead? Ve donn like skunks." I had to confess, I released him live. But, I did catch two more since that and they were made dead.

Please do not continue to force it in gear with the belt moving. The grinding is causing severe damage to the transmission. These early Wheel Horse models relied on the lower flange on the belt guard to support the slack belt and the wire guides if adjusted properly pushed the belt away from the engine pulley causing the belt to stop so a smooth shift could be made. Later models also used the moving belt guide on the idler pulley and a stationary pad to positively lock the belt for shifting. If you can not get the belt to stop, maybe a belt brake could be added.

My 1054 was doing the same, grinding while shifting gears. The belt tensioner or guide that bolts onto the engine block near the drive pulley was missing. It is the simple bent small rod that has a bolt holding it on to keep the drive belt positioned in the pulley. I made one and no issues since.

Make sure the belt guard in installed properly. It stops the belt.

About 900' which is about as far as I can get and still be on our property.

White paint pen is the way to go on these. Unless you have a dab hand with brushes.

I never had one that came in that was factory but that's not to say they weren't. Prolly a matter of personal preference on a resto. FYI vinyle guy does offer the decals for us p poor letteralers.

I have been wanting to mention that one of my riding buddies passed on June 21. 2024 at the age of 88. Unfortunately he was on one of his many motorcycles when he was hit by a car by someone in the same age bracket from what i can gather. Went into Hospice and passed shortly after. Don was very well known in all areas of Motorcycles and was not going to give that up. I thank him for what I learned from him and miss him dearly. For info check out on Legacy.Com Donald Murray Burnett at Campbell Funeral Home Beverly Mass. I have a thread on here under the same title I believe. Thanks Guys

If some one is driving down my dirt road in some fancy smanshy car with lots of electronics and my copper spark plug wires interfere,,,TDB

Looks like you made the deadline to take it to that show. But don't forget about the Murphy's law rule. It always seems like any job, no matter what it is, the last 10% of it takes 90% of the time to get it right.

Easy! an M-80

An excellent guess is in the 1940's. I found the large one on the road side and carved the wood to fit. The other 2 were my Grandfather's. I don't think they are worth a lot of money, but they are made well and they look like they are worth a ton. These are worth a ton to me !!

Better late than never….this was after I thought the snow on my usual loop was harder than it was with the C-141. I got out in the middle of the loop before I found a soft spot. A helper who drove the tractor backward out of the ruts and help from my winch equipped four wheeler got it out. My nephews did pack it down more afterward snowmobiling, but I think I’ll wait to spring/summer.

Adjusting the Eaton 1100 to stop the creaping late last Summer on the 420 - LSE.

So today, I got out my homemade vise and wire brushed the wheels, wiped em down with mineral spirits, let em dry and applied 4 coats of filling gray primer. " on scamazon you can get 2 brand new 16x6.50x8 tires. 2 new 8 inch rims. and here is the best part. the tires are already mounted on the rims. under $100 for everything". Money is at a premium now & I like DYI. Next, I installed the head. Never-seize was applied to the head bolts. Torqued 10 ft lbs, then 20 ft lbs then 30 ft lbs and finally 40 ft lbs. I have rechecked the torque 3 times as suggested. No change. Now I'm gettin' quality time (?) on the keyboard searchin' for the sizes of hardware I need. Got a great hardware store nearby. If they don't have it, you don't need it.

I use PJ1 foam filter oil, its sticky so no drip off like motor oil, I can get 100+ hours of mowing out of a paper element and have barely any dirt on it..Just the finest of fines...but the foam sleeve will be packed every 8-10 hours. Its worth doing, the less dirt that hits the paper, the better

New, cheap Chinese fuel pump installed, everything looks OK for now.

Today I swept the two or so inches of snow that fell last night after I blew off about three inches yesterday. This is the first time in years I’ve used my sweeper to clean snow. Now that I’m retired from the snowplowing business I have time to mess around with this stuff. I used to come home from working and go to sleep. My driveway was always the last one to get done and usually a mess! It drove my wife crazy, but luckily for me she understood. One time I woke up and the driveway was plowed, I asked if she saw someone do it and she said no I did it with your truck I couldn’t wait any longer!! Anyway in this video you can see how well the sweeper works. If the snow hasn’t been driven on it sweeps it to dry clean blacktop. Obviously this only works like this in dry snow, and not slush. I also did a little clean up with the 418-C. IMG_1400.mov

As I predicted, all this snow is due to the fact that @Ed Kennell sold his Ber Vac blower 🤣

After removing the balance gears from my Bronco 14 a while back, the oil pan developed a pretty big leak. I didn't have a gasket at the time, so I had made one and it just didn't work. So today I pulled the engine and replaced the gasket. Gonna do some touch up on the engine before reinstalling. My Bronco looks sad with so many parts missing...

Today I took out my 417-A after replacing the transmission idler pulley. The old one was making noise so I got a new one from Brian at K+B Wheel Horse Parts. Put in a new correct belt and it worked perfectly. They called for 1”-2” of snow today, we got at least 5”! I was going to plow with my 418-C but it doesn’t have a cab and the temperature was in the teens with wind blowing 20-30mph, so in the cab I went! Sorry no pics this time!

You just working the snot outta that thing this winter ain't ya. Brought a 867 in for work. This is one @Pullstart picked up for me. Probably overpaid but got good bones & actually a nice survivor under all the gunk. Putting a shelf 8 on it. Old motor is real tired ... smokes & head gasket blown ... crank end play measured in inches. Will go thru it for another shelf motor. Repair all the cobblements & get her ready for re-sale.

Got some snow today. Probably now about 3” but still really windy so I expect some drifts. Monday will be final cleanup day since it’s going to be real windy tonight and all day tommorow. IMG_1540.mov

Oops. Ran into a bit of a glitch in painting my 522xi fender. It looked reasonably good until I noticed some areas where the paint wrinkled and/or orange-peeled a bit. I had allowed extra drying/curing time for the primer to make up for the relatively low temperatures in the shop, but I guess it wasn't quite enough time. I'll be more patient this time and wait at least a week before I wet sand the rough spots, plus at least an additional week before applying a second application. I'll set the shop temperature a few degrees warmer as well. On the plus side, the next coat(s) should be even smoother, and there's no big rush, since there are several other parts of the tractor that I can work on in the meantime. If it had been a bigger paint job, I might have used 2K primer and paint. Maybe some other time.

Mounted up these cast weights I bought last year. Seemed heavier than all my usual 50 pounders, turns out they’re 70 pounds apiece! Came with hardware that’ll need an inch or so cut off.

Once I out the chains on the 23-10.50's on my Reborn B-80 I felt there should be a little more clearance. I moved the hubs out a bit to get by but I don't like it like that. Found these on Ebay for pretty cheap and tried them out on the hubs I just saved. I was just able to get a socket the stock lug bolts to mount them.

My sons bought small spacers for his tractor, last night I installed one side. Had to remove the hub set screw and replace with a 1/4” shorter one so that the two bolts heads wouldn’t hit. The 7/16 x 20 x 2” bolts can be a pain to find.

The 520H had been acting like it was starving for fuel during the tail end of the last storm clean up. I actually had to leave the warm cab and brave the cold to finish with the 312H. I had installed an epump last fall and she had been running fine till now. Time to find the problem before the next storm that is coming this Sat. I pulled the line off near the carb and turned on the epump and got barely a dribble. Nice thing about the epumps..you don't have to crank the engine to check for good fuel supply. So, I went to the other end and pulled the line on the fuel tank petcock....not even a dribble. from the tank. The petcock was clogged with dirt. A good cleaning of the petcock and flushing the tank and back together and running like a happy ONAN should. When installing this I like to coat it with vaseline then just start the valve in the grommet before pushing the grommet into the tank then push the valve barb into the grommet.

I’m partial to this tread (yes, these are my tractors). Brand: Carlisle All Trails The ones on the right are 23 x 8.0x12’s and would fit your current wheels and clear your fenders just fine.

Made a make shift weight bar and used some old weights that were kicking around so I could get around with the 44” blower. Didn’t have a problem going anywhere but definitely had to watch backing up. Probably going to seek out some wheel weights this year though.

Last night I replaced the transmission drive belt with what I believe is the proper one P/N 7473 on my 417-A. Today I took it out to blow the driveway and it worked fine for about 15 minutes. Then I heard a noise and knew something wasn’t right, so I headed back to the garage. I found the belt had jumped off the pulley and was wedged between the transmission and the pulley. I’ve never had this happen before? There’s two different part numbers given for that belt, I want to confirm this is the correct one? As I was investigating this problem my pager went off for a mutual aid fire call. This was in the height of the storm, to a neighboring department. A department that rarely calls for our help, stating a garage and multiple structures on fire. I am one of the senior members and truck drivers so I was the operator for this alarm. We actually had to follow the town snowplow to get there. The young man in the passenger seat got on the siren, so I yelled at him and said you idiot do you want me to pass him so we can get stuck and not get there? He apologized and I told him in this case slow and steady wins the race. We didn’t get done until dark so my driveway will have to wait until tomorrow, I wasn’t going to have trouble with the tractor in the dark with it still snowing and sleeting. That’s me in the blue coat, I don’t wear turnout gear when I’m driving as I find those big clunky boots unsafe to drive with. IMG_4058.mov

Flew some parts and red for 520 FEL fuel pump install. Some slight mod to the pump mount it goes right in existing holes.

Finally put the snow blade on. We got a good layer of ice here in Georgetown, Texas last night. Blade just gliding on the top. Maybe I'll try putting a wheel weight on the blade and see if that makes a difference. Adjusted the angle and got a little bit of a bite but I I suppose it's a lot to ask for this little tractor to break through the ice. Maybe I can try low gear with the heavy weight on the blade, on my first attempt I was on high 1.

Today I got the 414-8 ready to move the snow and sleet that is forecast for tonight and tomorrow. Have chains if needed and the rear tires are filled with rv antifreeze and have a mule drive weight bracket with twenty pounds. Hopefully all is ready. Be safe!

Thanks Gary . It’s coming along .