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My wife figured out how to create AI images

September 17, 1787, the delegates to the Constitutional Convention met for the last time to sign the document they had created, 7591 words that are the foundation on which the United States of America was formed. We encourage all Americans to observe this important day in our nation's history by attending local events in your area. Celebrate Constitution Day through activities, learning, parades and demonstrations of our Love for the United State of America and the Blessings of Freedom Our Founding Fathers secured for us.

He changed the oil to a new air based lubricant

Yup. I changed the oil on my MF GC1720 today. Bit of an access wrassle to get something to turn the oil filter. Got the new filter on and was just about ready to start pouring the new oil I, when I remembered I had not put the drain plug back in yet. Caught it in time, though.

Never ever happened to me...Not!

Agree with Eric - I run 30 weight all year. Plow with a C-105 and a C-125. Let them warm up and go...

Absolutely. I do have one engine that I use 10W-30 in the winter. That's a 16 horse on my plow rig. Starts easier. Other than that most of our engines are straight 30 all year long.

If you become a supporter the restriction on posting goes away. Join here. That wrecked front end is way more than an adjustment, it should be obvious as you inspect the parts.

@Bill D One bearing is a 1630-2RS .75 X 1.625 x .5" Other bearing is 6203-12 is .75 x 1.57 x .47"

George, the farmer, had so many children that he ran out of names. So he started calling his kids after something around his farm. It was the first day of school and the teacher asked each child their name. When he got to one of the farmer George's sons, the boy replied, 'Wagon Wheel.' The teacher said, 'I need your real name boy, to which the lad replied, 'It's Wagon Wheel, sir....Really.' The teacher, rather annoyed rejoined, 'All right young man, take yourself right down to the Principal's office this minute.' The youngster pushed himself out of his chair, turned to his sister and said, 'C'mon, 'Chicken Feed', he ain't gonna believe you, either.'

What does your spark plug look like??? Picture please

There is no magic in straight 30 weight. The Kohler spec was written a long time ago, way before the advancement of multi viscosity oils. Plus, there is no oil pump in these engines, it is all slung. That is the reason they recommended lighter oil in winter. It slings easier. The modern day 10w-30 oils have much more to offer, and work very well in these engines. They really do change vis as the temps change. Another advantage to multi vis oil, you can use full a synthetic. These have way better heat transferring ability and being these are air cooled engines running in a dirty environment, that is a big plus. If your looking for something industrial look at the diesel oils. I do use a 5w-40 diesel oil in all my engines splash or pressure lubricated. This oil has a good additive package. Overall they all work, I only have one 100% advice, stay away from the one brand called "lack of"

What is black-and-white and red all over ……. and embarrassed zebra. what is black-and-white and read all over?…."… a newspaper.

My C-160 was using oil with no smoke. About a pint every month. 1000 hrs. Ran fine. Had a slight rattle. One spring the rattle got a little louder so I decided to put another engine on and tear the original down. Out side of loose balance gears I found this:

More than 1000 hours on it? It might be time for a leak-down test. Older engines can consume oil due to worn rings or valve guides, yet perform well. If it's not leaking it, it's using it... Big question - what weight & type of oil are you using? IMHO - using modern automotive multi-weight oil is a no-no for several reasons. Modern car oil has almost no zinc content - essential for flat tappet cam and valve guide life on these older style engines. Multiweight oils are thin - Kohler recommends straight 30 weight oil for summer usage.

Copied to Classifieds in Trade section..

Define "loosing oil" if you would. A small amount on the dipstick between oil changes shouldn't be alarming IMO...and clean that thing You might want to pull the valve cover and make sure that it's clean so oil can return to the case rather than being blown out the vent. Replacing those gaskets might be in order. Looks pretty good to me for a working unless I'm missing something. A good rinse might show something more but I'm not seeing it.

I will have to take a better pic tomorrow but I do see the id tag on it now. it is in this pic but unreadable with this pic. will get more pics tomorrow.

I’ve only mowed with my B-80, but it does look good with ags and ribs. But ags wouldn’t be a good choice for snow duties as you know. I think it’s better suited as a tow rig personally.

Local mower shop hauled this one in. Owner claimed he just changed the oil, started mowing and it died, wouldn’t turn over. Shop owner put it on the lift, then exclaimed. OH $&17!!! picture shows the problem.

My response

Diesel oil has higher zinc content also which is better for solid lift engines. I run 30wt year-round but do have one of them magnetic heaters I slap on oil pan if I think I will be using tractor when it's getting down to freezing or below. All modern oil is better than what we used to use years ago.

This if you plan on staying around and enjoy these ol tractors it is well worth the price of admission to become a supporter. You would be hard pressed to find a better bunch of 's then what's on here and all the W/H knowledge you want find anywhere else.

I'm guessing here but did the previous owner buy new tie rods that were too short. to the

Something is broken or someone put on the wrong tie rod(s)

When I was in the seventh or eighth grade (had the same teacher for both) we studied the Declaration of Independence, Constitution, Bill of Rights and Constitutional Amendments (there were four less back then). Some of these lessons lasted all day but we LEARNED about them rather then gloss over them. Our teacher was a naturalize citizen from France who immigrated as a teen ager with his family shortly after World War Two. He had a deeper appreciation for these documents and the freedoms we enjoy than nearly anyone I have ever met. About twenty years later I had a young Mexican worker on the farm I was managing who more or less became my right hand man. He had gone through our public school system and wanted to become a US Citizen. I spent an hour or so with him after work most days and I attempted to pass along the enthusiasm that our teacher had for these formative documents. I have never felt such pride as the day I stood with him and his parents at his Naturalization Ceremony.

Gotcha... actually it's pretty good... I'm thinking it's most likely just dirty... I'm noting improvements as I run it, so I'm thinking it's just a matter of time before I get to good... everything on this has been pretty dirty so far... so I'm just keeping up with cleaning as I go and we'll see...

Here's a similar carb for the explanation.

At the top of the crabulator - where the twisty thingy gozintah. Make sure: A. The turning motion is free with no "catches" or rough spots. B. That it doesn't wiggle around sideways too much. A little is OK.

Put that in English... do you mean to the governor? Or...? i ain't a carbermanator expert like u...

A bent or loose steering arm needs to be fixed / replaced before throwing good money at it buying adjustable tierods with replacable joints. Note the relative placement of the rh and lh outer tierod joints - they look about the same - yet the lhe slindle IS damaged. Note the damage to the upper hood - looks like a vehicle backed into it - a coincidence that the spindle took a beating too???? Methinks a LOT more is bent / busted / broken here than meets the eye.

Greased all zerks. Boy was there some nasty black ooze coming out... Continued to work on surging issue... bit more carb cleaner, tweaking the adjustments, running it with good gas, some Seafoam, stabil... getting better. May dip it again...

Methinks it injested a large chunk of his wallet!!

Some tractors have adjustable tie rods and some do not. If your doesn't the weld at the spindle where the plate that the tie rod attaches to may have given way. Causing the plate and spindle to move independently. I have seen this a few times

That doesn't appear to signs of burning oil

I have a couple of mules here with the cast pullies and they are the same as Squonk's with a 1630 and a 6203-12.

if shes been in the pool points may be wet.

Download and read through the OM (operator manual). That’ll be a huge help getting to know your machjine and what all the parts are called. As for starting, get ready: - be in the seat - depress the clutch pedal - position the PTO lever (on the right next to the hood & steering wheel) all the way back toward you - move the choke lever up - move the throttle lever to midway Then: Turn the key to the RUN position Press the momentary START switch and the engine should start cranking. As soon as the engine starts to fire, smoothly move the Choke lever downward (over about 3 seconds) and release the start switch.

Yes from what I read diesel oil has a additive(s) to combat soot and carbon in diesels. Might be a good thing in some of our motors with tired rings? I buy strait 30 in five gallon buckets but all I can ever find on the shelf is diesel rated. Winter 520s get syn 10-30 for the convenience of same oil in tranny. I use one of those magnetic stick on heaters on the oil pan along with a heater in the radiator hose on my big tractor for those sub zero days.

What’s black and white and eats like a horse? A zebra. Did you hear about the wooden tractor? It had wooden wheels, a wooden engine, wooden transmission, and wooden work!

Thanks Eric. I have propane heaters That I use to warm up the garage. I could go that way run them at a safe distance if it gets real cold sub zero type stuff...

That'll do it. Did he even put oil back in it??? I'd expect a bigger mess if he did. Good parts rig for someone.

Ain't what this is all about?

Always sad to lose another member. Rest in Peace Paul

Yep, some folks should not play with wrenches.

Yes, for sure. You proved the electrical system can generate a spark. Now to get the spark to happen at the right time and place! It sounds, now, like the points are not being opened by the engine (you were able to do it manually without zapping yourself--though you’d have had company if you had ) My next step would be to clean the points and then check/reset the points gap. This isn’t hard but I don’t know the exact procedure for your engine. @gwest_ca, which manual will he need for the point setting sequence?

Dad had one can of Billy Beer on the basement fire place mantel. As far as I know dad never drank a beer. Mom probably threw the Billy Beer away after dad passed away.. Well, at least she didn't throw away a fortune!