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I don't need a charger for mine.

Tried my luck with reupholstering a WH seat pan. I think it turned out good, not my first time with upholstery, I have done a few projects before. postimage Org may delete my picture. I think I have already payed the government enough to use their site.

glad ya got it. This has replaced a bunch of my cheater pipes and power handles and lug wrenches . Almost worth its weight in gold around the shop and farm.

Fixed it for ya...

Well, I have a very similar version, use it all the time, but I find that I do need a charger... beer, cashews and a wee bit of the venison chili usually works...

Got one of these in a kit a few years ago. Only took a few months to: a) realize how often it is just what I needed, and b) that it should only be used with impact-rated sockets (no need to ask about how I learned that).

Who needs a BA impact gun to loosen stuck blades. Old schoolers just get a longer wrench. This deck may cut again with the blades right side up.

October 25, 1884 1st "World Championship" Baseball Series, Polo Grounds, NYC: Providence Grays (NL) beat NY Mets (American Association) 12-2 in 6 innings for a 3-game sweep; game abandoned because of bitter cold.

Little red-neck engineering took place today. Wanted a ramp for the new shed that wasn’t permanent since I won’t be moving things in/out very often. Needed to be lightweight and easily stored out of the weather. Came up with this using plastic car ramps. Tested out perfect!!

Well at least a switch swap out is an easy task

Also got a large assortment of pipe wrenches up to 24 or 36 inches I forgot how long and lots of pipe

Love mine one of the best tool investments I got

eb, I was in the same boat then had 2 runners fall in my lap within a 2 week time span really stretched my Wheel Horse allowance. Warden was puffed up a little but got over it no time.

Agreed. It took me 2 or 3 YEARS to find a 520 roller. @Handy Don was instrumental there.

As @ebinmaine alluded too earlier real estate and Wheel Horses comes down to three things- Location, Location, Location. Man I envy you guys and gals in them target rich environments sometimes.

I guess inflation lag is a common problem for guys in thier 9th decade. Seems like yesterday when I bought rollers for $50.

Knew you would win the battle. Ed, using that long pipe I think I would grab a flex head rather than a ratchet.

Excellent! You were my main focus for sharing it!

As you are very aware, aluminum castings like the 701/702 tank are very challenging to manufacture. I’m betting the two-piece, even with the extra parts and labor to assemble, was substantially less expensive and, I’d suspect that the vendor that made the one-piece tanks had shut down their line. No big surprise that so many fuel tanks today are blow-molded plastic.

Hey Bar!! Bought it!! This'll most likely be brought up to whatever piece of camp property we end with a couple hours northeast of home. Such an incredibly helpful implement. Definitely justifiable for us as woods folk to have two of them.

I used this KBS product on a 502 two piecer that @Andy N. now has. I was too sceered to take it apart for fear of bad threads. 'Sides figured by the time I got a gasket from Lowell and Permatex and possibly dealing with bad threads i was ahead. I was sold on this brand since I used it before on a Tecky oval tank that was full of pin holes with great luck. . I soldered up the biggest holes and the ones I missed had the seal gooing out which I considered a good sign. The big thing with this product is use all three components and follow the destructions to the letter. https://www.amazon.com/KBS-Coatings-52000-Sealer-Gallon/dp/B000IBDIX2/ref=sr_1_1?crid=176XR3BJQCOI&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.VRrcUbU1iANAvxPODhOQO3xt4DcrZWHcPSX9eZkdvpHNP0AC30S3mP6VPjtv37JPU2A2RJNaGbc8AmnTHRce8DIMeiJSqdUGig2reSj9k6XZhdY1NzqYLYl4jql6C5yxmVYB0ZFbrT28pgq5FqILHabaGezHzaV1IZ2vFvNV3whPFCC_HFrMsqdB4A_bMmbNBSp9eb_Ari5mNfQ_9LednHWKBRRpZeGOY_7yRFFb17yWDM2Gi2bqk0CWJ30gDQHETMdV444TCG6aL54YwpIM6xTZ2Ic3zOJz_dFeuT-MWjM.xIbyvN4P2rS1Xo9cNfEOAlhKVgq439WeW2G6P6b43vI&dib_tag=se&keywords=kbs+tank+sealer+kit&qid=1792930810&sprefix=kbs+tank%2Caps%2C205&sr=8-1&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.9fe8cbfa-bf43-43d1-a707-3f4e65a4b666

Why, an e=pump will not fill the crankcase with fuel. You will get instant start ups as the carb bowl is filled before you crank the engine. Of course you have to have a carb that is working properly that shuts off the fuel when the bowl is full. IMO, the e-pumps are the bomb. They save my batteries and starters.

I've had several of those 2 piece tanks and never one that didn't leak to some extent. I don't think there's a gasket coating that exists that will permanently stop the issue. Really it's just a bad design. Wheel Horse came out with a service bulletin on it which involved actually installing an inner tank to solve the issue. I think I found a better method. There's many fuel tank liners out there and they will likely work as well but I've never tried them so I can't vouch for them but I know this stuff works. I think I can say permanent because I've never had one leak after using it. The key to it is cleanliness. I removed the old gasket and cleaned everything until it was sterile. I reassembled it and did some more cleaning. I let it sit in the sun several days to make sure any trace of moisture was gone. I plugged the threaded hole with a nylon fitting. I used maybe a quarter cup of Red Kote and swirled it around the edge where the two pieces meet. It doesn't take much. You don't need to coat the entire tank, just where the seal is. I let it dry several days and repeated. When I was done with the sealer I let it dry for many days. The latest one I've done is my current 854 and that's been 8 years now.

And as Trina says.... I know where to buy more paint!

300 400 series ignition switches are NOT all the same. All 300 and 400 models that were equipped with Kohler Magnum engines from 1987 to 1991 used the 103991-ignition switch and from 1992 to 1997 they all used the 116338-ignition switch. These two switches are not interchangeable. As you can see the terminals on the two switches are not all in the same location in on the two switches. If the wrong switch is used these would be the results. If the 103991 Magneto Ignition Switch intended for use in then 1987 to 1991 models were used in place of the 116338 switch on a 1992 to 1997 model when the switch is turned to the RUN position the Magneto would emit very expensive magic smoke. Turning the key further would allow the starter to turn the engine over but the engine wouldn’t start because you already toasted the Magneto. If he 116338 Magneto Ignition Switch intended for use in the 1992 to 1997 models were used in place of the 103991 switch on a 1987 to 1991 model when the switch is turned to the RUN position the magneto would also become toast. Why did Wheel Horse make this change? I have no idea but please be sure you are buying the correct switch for your tractor.

I’ve long thought that the switch maker could have had two differently shaped pin configurations so that, at least with the correct plug, only the correct switch could be connected.

By looking at the decals it is a 1994-97. 1988 - 1990 did not have gear reduction steering and no forward swept axle.

I have both (regular and reduction steering), both have forward swept axle and I prefer the regular over the reduction myself but see how the reduction steering would be handy with heavy front attachments like snow blower or front end loader or such.

Just gotta figure how and when to get it the four hour drive to Maine.....

Them is rare as hen's teeth up here. I'd pay five times that and run like the wind. Wide rear wheels. $100 - $200. Splayed forward front axle. $250+ Gear reduction steering. $100+ There's at LEAST $1000 in parts there without knowing if it runs and drives.

The tractor with the frame pictured acted like it articulated in the middle! And yes, I too have described it as moving like an inch worm... Bob - I respectively disagree that just changing the bolts is a proper fix. The compromised frame plate is not the cause, it is the victim here. My Proprietary repair is a fabricated welded-in plate and a set of triangular braces to stop the twist and the fore-n-aft flexing... More than 10 years in use - zero problems.

I agree but it's what they did back then. They did address the reduced capacity. The original was 4 quarts, the replacement 2 quarts. They mentioned if that was a problem to seal the tank. The problem back then could have been not having the selection of tank sealers that we have now. I like that idea. I've done it with gasket goop and without and also without removing the bottom plate. Same results with all. Edit Check out Bulletin #348 if you want to see the old Wheel Horse fix.

I worked for a local Company back in the mid 1980's that manufactured Build-to-order Deep Hole Gundrilling Machines. I spent several weeks in Kokomo Indiana nstalling & training folks how to use & maintain their new transmission shaft Gundrills. Our Machines drilled a 5MM oil hole about 75 MM deep. These machines were part of dedicated Workcells - barstock was fed in one end, finished machined parts out the other. They had an Italian Machine there that did the same straightening thing - rotate the part to locate the highest runout spot, calculate the force & apply it where needed, repeat twice more. If the part was not straight within spec after the third try, it was scrapped. Quick & efficient. The step before the Gundrill was to rollform the splines onto the shaft - one pass revolving the shaft 2 or 3 times under 100 tons of pressure. That process generated NO chips as the metal was upset into shape...

Late to the show. Truly a unique Wheel Horse trailer. But no hydraulic dump? Oh, the humanity!

Buttoned up a bunch of small things. Welded some proper hinges to the seat, plumbed the hydraulic system, filled it up (no leaks!), installed new air cleaner elements, fitted an extra heat shield/mesh at the drivers station, added small exhaust tip (not sufficient unfortunately) installed new drivechains and put on all the engine cooling shrouds. Before testing the hydraulic system on full chooch I wanted to purge the oil-lines and hydraulic valves of old oil. To do so I hooked the belt on the oil pump pulley and the other end around the drillchuck of a battery powered drill. Gave it a spin and waited for the oil to make it's way through the system. Worked like a dream! Could even build a bit of pressure that way until the belt started to slip on my drillchuck. After that it was time for the real test. Fire it up and see what it does.. thanks to my SO for being the cam-opetator. Went pretty well and still no leaks Next up comes the 'fun' part of fitting some new rubber to the old rims and see what it does in the great outdoors. Now I do have a question for the engine doctors out there. As you can hear the engine runs okay but coughs a bit. I loves to rev and runs fine in the upper rpms but if I throttle it down past halfway full throttle it dies even when I re-apply full throttle, while still having good momentum going in the flywheel so to say. Is this a 'clean-the-carb-well-and-reassemble' issue or a tuning issue. Or perhaps something ignition related or valves etc..?

Slowly cleaning up and prepping this C-145 for winter snow chores. Wheels and tires are done! Rears are Carlisle All Trails in 23x8.0x12 Fronts are Carlisle in 18x6.50x8

The switch in your hand has an I (eye) terminal for battery ignition and the 1994 312 has magneto ignition. The M terminal is required and it connects to the ground terminal in the OFF position. That is what kills the ignition. If you can disconnect the blue wires to the magneto it should run. Do not allow any battery voltage to get to those blue wires. That creates magneto smoke.

I have used a small extra heavy duty C-clamp to push the pin in where swinging a hammer is impossible.

I used a nice old ammo box on my lever steer. Over center clasp, nice heavy gasket.