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Better late than never, happy birthday kid! Love you! You’re kind of a chip off the old block 😂

This mower has probably 25 years of mostly sitting . It was a three hundred dollar mower even back then. I got it for a family member who had a husband who had a quad bypass so the wife could make the yard. It came back to me when her health declined as well Now my wife has been bugging me for a mower that she can just start and run so with the electric start feature this one will be it. The tank was empty and the air filter foam on the outside was nasty so I gave her a squirt of penetrating oil in the spark plug hole and also the carb and pulled it a few times. It has the patented carb bowl with no room to get a wrench underneath. Maybe an offset wrench would work but who knows. Anyway after thinking about grinding a socket for the bowl nut, I replaced the rotten fuel line . She fired on carb cleaner and caught on the first pull. I have to replace the final drive parts at the wheels if I can figure it out, but at least it will start and run . Maybe YouTube will show me the way on the drive repair . She's a beauty but pretty heavy to push around . .

October 30, 1938, A radio broadcast of H. G. Wells' "The War of the Worlds," narrated by Orson Welles, allegedly causes mass panic.

I got my Dad a 39 crank start Allis B so of course I had to convert it to electric start. 12V battery with a 6V Napa starter. Touch of the starter button and that engine practically flew out of the tractor!

I have this one and it does indeed work well. I have not used on mower deck pulleys but see no reason why it wouldn't work. It has helped with a few "frozen bolts" though. I like it a lot better than haveing to use an open flame for heat.

Wow guys. What a help. I messed around a bit at the Toro site and they were saying that only present production models were available for download. With the great weather we are having I will be doing this in the shop during bad weather. Soybean and corn yields are great this year and I want to see my nephews new combine Fendt class 8 that fully optioned can exceed seven figures. The front has tracks instead of tires. He lost his other combine when it burned down in a field. He is hoping for fifty percent depreciated on the insurance claim. An eighteen row head and 250 bushel corn and that thing just eats. Here at the home place the guys are running a John Deere class seven and running while unloading into a grain cart.

here's a new angle on removing mower deck pulleys from spindles that have been "rust welded frozen" on the spindle shaft. i have participated in numerous threads on this topic and am back in situation again -- using penetrant, map gas etc -- the two crow bars - hub puller etc. no luck !!!!!! It was suggested to me I need to get pulley collar hotter - and was suggested to use " Heat Induction Bolt Remover" -- or also maybe called "Induction heater" --- Has anyone used this tool to heat and remove the deck pulleys? I watched one video and the guy said when removing a nut the heat process will destroy the nut. Does that suggest the collar on top of pulley on the spindle shaft would be deformed ? I don't want to have to get new pulleys but if that's necessary then I guess that's the cost of removing the pulley ? any insights from anyone using this Heat Induction tool method? thanks

I came across this wheel horse 312 hydro "classic" near my home. $75! Doesn't run. A little over 400hrs. Owner doesn't know why, but someone cut thru the wiring harness! 🤔🤪 Right there is a big clue sir!! 😂

Cut four wooden wedges from hardwood, place two of them under one side of the pulley where the tip of one is over the tip of the other, do the same on the other side of the pulley. tap on each wedge going from side to side so the upward pressure will be even. Continue driving the wedges in until they are as far as they will go. put the nut on your spindle shaft to protect the threads and give it s good hard hit with a BFH tool. The pressure from below and the shock to the shaft should do the job.

Update on this. About a month ago, I got down to the KY property to work on the tractor. I tried chasing the threads with a die, but it is a round die and I don't have a handle for it. Channel lock pliers wouldn't get a good enough grip to turn the die and keep it straight. A thread file needed to have the wheel, brake, and hub pulled to get enough clearance to run the file. I ended up using the two piece repair nut. It threaded onto the damaged axle threads and pulled up to somewhere near the 400 lb ft torque requirement - or whatever me bouncing a few times on the end of a 4' cheater bar made. I've put several hours of box blade and grader blade time on it since. So far, so good. I still am considering this to be a temporary repair. A new axle is on the repair list now.

I've never used one, but I have seen induction heaters used in production production processes. The induction heaters are capable of heating things to a bright orange - hot enough to mess up any heat treatment the heated piece has. Chances are a heat induction bolt remover won't get quite that hot. It probably has an adjustment for the heat level.

I was born in Butler and grew up near there. My dad took me to a couple car shows with Austin and Bantam on display back in the early '70s and I remember the small chassis and 4-wheel steering Jeep models that were made there. Lots of engineering in that part of PA back then, Pullman Standard being another. Cool stuff and a nice find @Mike'sHorseBarn !

Here is the engine service manual

The BBT aka Trina and I have 4 days off paid work. Plans have changed from wilderness camping to yard & acreage chores. Today we moved the 7 heavy boxes 📦 of the new camper house building to the front of house nearer to the build site. My 1974 C160-8 Cinnamon Horse was called up to duty. After the trailer was emptied of boxes I shoveled some stone into it. That'll be used for the ramps to and from the green garden area bridge.

Go electric. I personally use and recommend Facet brand pumps. There are less expensive models of other brands.

Used and maintained as you noted @FLtractor, it’ll outlast you.

A wise old shark and a young shark were swimming near the shore when they spotted a couple of young swimmers. The young shark asked the older one if they should go right over and eat therm. The old shark said no, first we will circle around the with our fins barely above the water, then we will circle them again with our fins fully exposed, then we can eat them. The young shark asked why you would circle them twice like that. The older shark said they taste much better once you scare the sh** out of them.

They were brand new blades and that was the factory edge. I know in my 6' New Holland finish mower they want you to leave the blade edge slightly blunt

Likely. That's a ROAD USE tax. Here in Maine the non ethanol fuel is sold as "Recreation" or Boat/Marine" fuel. I've been told that non ethanol fuel is not highway legal but never verified this.

Just filled up the truck @ $ 3.50 a gallon and a can of non-E for the @ $ 5.00 a gallon. What the heck is that all about? North Carolina suspended the gas tax until the end of November but I guess that only pertains to alcohol adulterated gas and not real gas.

Four cylinder Indian Chief motorcycles from the late 30's early 40s had ones that look about like that. What information is on the tag on the distributer?

Yeah, or something. She claimed the damage to her van was from a hit and run. I think she was repositioning mailboxes.

Went to the Bantam Heritage festival in 2011. That was fun. Very Cool little tractor. Dave

Thanks. Checked it out more carefully. Apparently 657 was an updraft carb, mines side draft.

I have my good boiled cowboy coffee going!

My apologies, I misread it! Need to wake up.

HAPPPPY BIRTHDAY

Happy Birthday 🎂 🥳 🎉

Thanks Eric

HAPPY BIRTHDAY Rylee! She's all grown up now

IMHO. That'll be fine.

Used up the last of my ethanol free fuel topping off my B-80, C-81 (big tank!), the 857 and both of my 867’s. Just me pouring gas…no pics ! This means I’ll be making a fuel run real soon.

One red fox this AM Five doe this evening. Lots of tree rats.

Well, with all due respect, he’s apparently got a master’s degree in blade manglement and engine defunktitude. A double major!

More progress on the grader blade fabrication. It's actually starting to look like something that might work. I've finished the slot in the A-frame plate for the sector lock arm to lock into and I'm currently waiting on some round stock for making the two bushing clamps that hold the sector locking arm. I was getting ready to drill the mounting holes in the blade and realized that the blade was twisted, i.e. it wouldn't lay flat on the floor. Apparently when the shop was feeding it into their roller they weren't holding it straight. I took it back and they are going to straighten it for me. I did make one change in how the blade mounts to the backing plate. The original design used 6 mounting holes, I changed it to 8. The middle holes were really close to the round pivot block so I decided to put bolts on each side of the pivot block instead. Other than that I've been trying to stick to the original design as much as possible. The last important component to fabricate is the lifting arm assembly. I have the material but I'd like to have the sector arm installed first. Now if only I had a running tractor to use with the blade

My 1948 Ford was equipped with a 6 volt positive ground system. I removed the generator and voltage regulator replacing them with a GM one wire alternator, added an ignition resistor, changed out the light bulbs and put in a 12 volt battery with a negative ground and everything worked fine. The starter whipped over a bit fast but didn't overheat.

Getting ready. Cleaned up the snow blade and installed a new poly scraper. Next up paint the wheel weights and get them installed.

Well, crap.