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Early birthday present for myself. Not perfect, but for the price I couldn’t resist.

January 14, 1952 "Today Show" premieres with Dave Garroway & Jack Lescoulie on NBC-TV.

$300 is what I gave for this C-141 Auto - and it came with a mower deck. Have patience and seek out a better deal.

Front tach and hood pivot ready for assembly. Front tach lock assembly ready to install. Front tach lock and shaft partly inserted then E clip installed. Front tach lock spring slid onto shaft then shaft full inserted and E clip installed on opposite end from spring. Front tach lock slid over on shaft then the final E clip installed. Front tach lock release grip installed. Front tach latch assembly ready to install. Front tach latch pin has one E clip installed and is greased. Front tach latch pin slid into place and second E clip is installed. Latch shown in open position. Hood stop rod of my own design ready to install. I think Wheel Horse dropped the ball a bit on this design as the cotter pins get hit by the hood brackets. I use a solid 1/4" rod (you could use the original for this) slid into a piece of 3/8" tubing that has one hole drilled through to accept a cotter pin that holds everything together. Mine are all stainless steel but that is not required. Hood stop rod installed ready for cotter pin. Hood stop rod fully installed. Hood pivot assembly ready to install. There was some wear in the original rod and pivot brackets so I drilled the brackets and housing to 1/2" I then made up a 1/2" rod with holes drilled to accept cotter pins. Hood pivot shaft partly inserted and Right pivot bracket slid onto shaft. Hood pivot shaft partly inserted and both pivot brackets and washers slid onto shaft. Hood pivot shaft fully inserted and pivot brackets and washers slid into place on shaft. Hood pivot cotter pins installed. Front tach and hood pivot assembled. This is the tool I use to install the E clips.

Got it apart, what you think? A little JP Weld might work. Got a cat scan done, confirmed, cam fubar.

All used same hydro. This manual cover it pretty well. You should also look at the D series manuals as the manifold system show up better there than in this manual. Also look the the pinned post at the top of this forum for o ring and seal numbers for Sunstrand hydros

Looks like a 78-79 C series going by the hood stand. But who knows, it’s been built with all sorts of parts. Worth $300? Nope

Finally got a chance to take the rear end apart had one bearing from the outside looked iffy talk to a few of you guys said split the transmission took it apart needle bearings fell out found all but five I believe went through the pump before I got the pumps rebuilt cleaned it all out put a new gasket on redid the transmission filter and back together. Thanks for all the guys for the help sure appreciate your input over the years.

Love the CAT scan

And can be used to set the seat back a couple extra inches.

I absolutely love these tractors. I will enjoy following along on this one! I just realized, I’m in trouble. Now I want one. 😇

Looks to have a Honda or Honda clone on it. I don't think it's worth it because it's missing lots of OE parts.

Looks to be a mutant. Incorrect engine, questionable front wheel modifications. The biggie - no belt guard. Missing one or both foot rests. Only worth it if ALL the OE parts come with it - in useable condition. My

My wife recorded me plowing snow on Dec 11 but I just got the video from her now to post it. The 520HC worked well as always.

I was settin' in the shed havin' my 1st coffee & a cigarette. A reply in my original post about the exhaust valve kept eatin' at me. "Looks like a food fight goin' on in there". I got to thinkin', carbon is black, this crap is brown. I got a pick and poked around; it crumpled. I have never seen carbon crumble. I remembered the homemade muffler had some big holes in it so I removed it. Fired up the air compressor, put on a 12" blow nozzle, stood back & blew around the exhaust. Crap went everywhere, then a mud dubber nest came out.

Nice catch CD

The "food fight" comment was mine. I'd say that if not cleaned, the exhaust would have been a mite restricted. Best to find that stuff now. And luckily none of the winged critters were home.

I have mine still in the box. Pd $20 at an auction!

Yeah I saw that. I picked this one up on eBay for $41.

Very nice Don. I saw one on eBay for $120 plus $35.00 shipping. Too rich for my blood.

Plus the Sunstrands have internal pressure relief for the hydraulic pump so chaining tandem center control valves is straightforward

Definitely the C160 if you're planning on a hydraulic setup at the rear. My Bronco is basically the same, and I just added a D series spool valve to control the rear separately. Plus the Sundstrand has 4 bolts on to to work with attaching fabrications to. Not sure if that black hood has an Eaton or not, but those only have two bolts to work with. I just fabbed a 1/4 inch plate steel toolbox and added pivots for the upper lift arms and a seperate cylinder. No way that same design would work with (1) a fuel tank under the fender and (2) no room with an Eaton.

Hmmm. is the cam the source of the problem or is it the victim here?? Did you break the connecting rod?? I ask because I bought two C81's years ago. One ran but was tired; the other broke the connecting rod, snapped the cam in two and blew out the back cam mount. And ventilated the block bigtime. I did save the head, flywheel, tins, oil pan , points & coil though...

At my first Big Show, a member I’d never met pressed me to take an initial cruise around the show to get a feel for the place--using his Suburban! He gave me the required warnings about the “wheelie” tendency and not to over-choke it. Off I went. It has taken iron discipline to limit myself on acquiring more.

Prowling around somewhere or another I saw this seat mentioned. Looked like something I wanted to try so I bought one. Got it in the mail yesterday and I like it so much I ordered two more. At or just below freezing in the shop and the material feels reasonably soft and supple. Will it last? I have no idea. We will see what it does at 0° or below. On a low back versus high back seat I could go either way as far as looks. For a practical nature however, I prefer a low back seat. Two reasons: 1. It's easier for me to get on and off the tractor without the seat back being in the way. 2. I've said it before and I'll repeat it here. Your entire muscle and bone and tendon structure is literally, use it or lose it. One of the biggest reasons, if not THE biggest reason, that most of us experience injuries is because we have failed over the years to use our people chassis correctly. Engage. Your. Core. Muscles. As often as possible. I'm talking as close to 100% of the time as possible. Yes it takes training. Just do it. That's another reason why I prefer a low back seat. It forces me to use my core muscles to hold my body upright while driving. Here's some pics. This particular one I got off of Wally World but it looks like they're available from multiple sources. It was just under $54 shipped.

1.5” square tube can also give the seat a bit of extra height for us folks with longer lower limbs.

Right on Rider ... when I first joined here I had no idea what a round hood or Suburban even was... When I learned I gotta have one or ten ...

Not that I am admitting The Squonky is right but ... yeah some so us are as pure of tractor as we are of mind ... It's a procedure where you have a piece of plate glass with a sheet of say 400 grit or better wet /dry emery paper taped to it. It provides a surface that you can sand the halves flat . Note KP's pic where the half is slightly warped. Glassing removes them. I prefer to do it wet as it floats away particles. Same procedure for glassing a head & plenty of you tubes on doing it. If you overtighten the the screws it will squeeze the diaphragm too much at the corners leaving a gap where those warped areas are. Extreme overtightening can even warp the halves further. On doing a head ... same principle headgasket.pdf

Sure can. I've used plate steel and square bar stock in the past. I'd also recommend getting some proper sized good quality fender washers for the bottom of the pan/fender to help spread the load.

I forgot to add, I believe you could make an adapter plate pretty easy for these and that would keep you from drilling extra holes in seat pan.

Here is a picture of one I picked up at the big show last year, but it was an older one. I also think they suit the gen/start tractors very well. The holes did not match the factory holes in seat/fender pan on mine either. I believe this style of seat is what used to be called the "Michigan" seat. .

Electric and don't look back. HAPPY MOTORING!!

Lots of good info on this post. Good knowledge to know.

Im a C160 With the k341 Kohler fan so my vote goes to it.

Those rat rod tractors show up in marketplace up here - to me personally they're not worth anything - most are cut up and beat to pieces like that one.

I 'am putting the 308-8 back together and having a " Jonny Cash problem with the belt guard all the holes were gone ". Then I remembered there wasn't much paint on the back side of that guard when I took it off. The problem was the clutch idler was holding it off. I got a stick of wood and a big hammer and gave it a fine adjustment. Still a little close, but it clears now.

We drove over to the Grand Rapids area for my post op appointment for last week's eye surgery. All is well, restrictions are off, just continue the eye drop regimen for 3 more weeks. Got back to my temporary winter tarp porch enclosure for the lake house. Got the framing to where I think I need it, then started hanging the first tarp. Had a pretty good breeze today. Didn't help at all hanging the tarp, but it did point out that my initial idea to hang the tarp wasn't going to work. Going to try plan B tomorrow.

Here is a good source for pulleys. You will need to know the outside diameter, shaft size & belt width. Then find one that matches. https://surpluscenter.com/search.php?search_query=pulleys

They may be sized at 25" tall but are they actually that tall. Many are not. And they do not get taller when inflated. Being in Florida you will not need clearance for chains like many of us.

Vroom Vroom Putt Putt

You guys need to slow down making the whole team look bad

Todays adventure - rebuild the steering system. To start off I turned a portion of 5/8" stock down to 9/16" and threaded it to 12 pitch. Next drill a hole in it and tap the inside of it to 3/8-24. Then use a parting tool to cut it to length. OK, what am I building here ?? Remember the fan gear that the PO messed up by welding the drag link to it? The hole in it was too large for a heal-a-coil. So I tapped the hole in it to 9/16-12. What I made was an insert to repair the require 3/8-24 hole in the fan gear. Inserted with Loctite plus I peened the edges to ensure that it does not move. Next - take a peace of 5/8" x 4.5" stock, turn a 15/16" length of each end down to 7/16" and thread it to a 20 pitch. One new drag link. Now for the tie rod that was butchered up. First off, position the front axle and spindles so that everything is held strait. Then cut a 1" x 5/16" flat bar to length. Use a transfer punch to mark the outer holes. Drill the 1/2" holes in each end and the 3/8" hole for the drag link and test bolt things together. Looking good, now it was time to turn the two 1/2' bolts into part #3949 clevis pins. Cut to length and then drill an 1/8" hole 1" deep into the end of the bolt. Drill & tap the end to 1/4-28 to a depth of 3/8" for a grease zerk. Drill an 1/8" cross hole to meet up with the 1/8" length wise hole so that grease can get to the pivot point. Front end repaired & almost ready for some paint.

These allow a more controlled, less violent engagement. As I recall, they are aftermarket, not Factory offered.

Agreed 100%! Did the same thing on my last tractor! Got mine on the Jungle site.

https://www.amazon.com/Ciuouient-230675-Diaphragm-Rebuild-Compatible/dp/B0F1XYDS4B/ref=sr_1_4

Got only 6.5” and the blower made quick work on clearing most of the driveway, followed it all up with the plow and viola, all clean! Definitely need the sun to come out

Started pulling this apart about end of August, just got it in the basement, pulled the engine apart, too have a look see. (See video ) Found it. think I have a nother cam around here 20260114_101853.mp4

I like Electric pumps but I thought I might fix one of the old metal pumps I have. But then I went to Then and Now and found the kit was $32.50, a bit stiff bit OK then went to check out....Shipping showed up as $15.25 Priority Mail Flat rate and then another $4.00 for Handling. I know USPS isn't cheap but on their website Small Flat rate box $12.60 and commercial customers (I would assume that this outfit is big enough to qualify) is $8.75. Sorry I do not like that ... back to electric a bit more money for a Posi flo but Carbole which a lot of people here use is only about $25 shipped

thank you for tip, looks like that part of the frame is OK, but higher, where first tube is, there is crack? I think..