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July 6, 1885, Louis Pasteur successfully gives an anti-rabies vaccine to 9-year-old Joseph Meister, saving his life.

One of the last steps in this camper switcheroo of the last year, I’m heading to Pratt, KS to deliver the toy hauler. It’s 3 am and as soon as Norman warms up a bit it’s wheels up!

Wheel Horses were designed to work ...not stop and sit around....

Thank you all for your kind words, care and thoughtfulness. It means so much. This truly is a community where each one cares for one another. The picture was on Rita's 72nd birthday last year at a birthday party for my daughter's mother in law's birthday party for which they shared the same birthday, and they honored Rita as well. Warmest regards, Dan

It’s very deep…….

Adjusted the governor arm on the shaft so the governor is functioning now. Ran to Ace Hardware for a 1/2”x39” belt and a longer 7/16” x 3” grade 5 bolt that was needed to mount the 6908 drive pulley on the gear drive deck. I also grabbed a heavy spring that had similar specs as the 5185 spring in the RL-366 mower parts diagram. However the spring had an extra length hook on one end, which I figured was a bonus as i could shorten it to the length needed. Thanks to @Horseoholic for dimensions, i made a 5385 link from bar stock that goes between the spring and the idler. In the RL-367 destructions manual it says to attach the spring to the 7th hole in the frame. On this Raider, the 7th hole is the front hole of the tower, looking at picture in the RL-367 manual, the hole that the spring is anchored to is not there on my Raider. I made a tab 1-1/2” long with a hole to attach the entire length of the Ace spring to MY 7th hole. Since the Raider has footboards, the link and spring are hidden behind it. I had to trim the front footboard bolt 1/4” because it interfered with the link where it comes through on the back side, but it all works well. The belt keeper on the idler doubles as a boot guard. The shimmed drive pulley spins true and freely. If i’m thinking correctly, i may try moving the throttle spring down one hole at the governor so the governor allows a little more throttle up the hill. Seemed to be dropping a bit too much rpm before the governor takes over. I picked the deck up at the Big Show. I only pulled the gear covers off to have a peak, but i didn’t disassemble anything. Some axial play in the cross shaft, but i’ve run much worse. The right blade shaft woodruff needs replacing, not sheared but i can tell it’s worn pretty bad from the slop. Both blade shafts have some radial play, hoping the shafts aren’t worn too bad. Just need to finish out the season and i’ll replace all of the bearings before next year. Loaded it up with grease. It mowed, but it looked really skippy. I shut it down and checked. Sure enough, the right blade was on the left and the left was on the right. This is the second gear drive deck i bought like that. It cuts perfectly now with the blades on their correct sides. Need to order a rectifier yet and some trans seals. Brakes barely work at all on these old 3/6spds… especially backwards, on a hill, when the brake drum and band are saturated with gear lube. IMG_2076.mov

Guess we passed inspection.

I recommend replacing the brake lining with one from @rmaynard. They are a solid material with great friction. The brake is still never gonna be a WH strong point, but you’ll be impressed and a tad safer.

This is me on the 312-8 and my great niece (she was throwing candy from the cart) during our local Alumni Day/250th Parade, it was awesome! I was here for our bicentennial back in 1976, and now this Semi quincentennial in 2026, but I probably won't be around for the Tricentennial, but maybe my tractors will still be going! Hopefully this picture will come okay! C-85

No actually that "patina" tractor came from Rodney Burger. He took it to the LeSeuer , Minnesota Swap Meet in April several years ago. The hood was painted purple. My brother David Ralph bought it and it set unused for several years -a waiting some attention. Craig Hearne told me how to paint a tractor with "new patina". I did not think you could do it but it worked real well. You take Rustoleum red primer, flat black and and red you want (I use Rustoleum Regal red) and lightly spray the three at different intervals until you have a "new patina" finish. And, yes I was skeptical but it worked great.

This is true Also true More truth Added truth. Exponentially decreasing brake power. Niiiiice.....

Trina and I have quite the collection here as you know. Also, several other machines. Quite a few implements. As we were showing @Natejc_98 around, you could tell he knew he was... "in trouble." He even mentioned that going to @JCM Jim's Place in the fall was probably going to add to this.

I Ain't no skinny bear

From what I hear, Eric would make two of that skinny bear.

I'll be there Wed afternoon. Will be bringing a few tractors.

You on crack buddy ... we can't get rid of him ...

He lifts his leg on it I'm shooting...

I’ve chased my tail many times over a simple spark plug. I’m not saying that’s what it is, but if you’re at the point of throwing parts at it…

What specific problem are you experiencing with the ignition system? It could be a matter of cleaning the ignition points or needing a condenser. The SBV 355 appears to be a replacement for the V 70 engine used in many models of Wheel Horse beginning in 1969. Ignition parts from the H 60 or other similar vintage Tecumseh engines would work just fine. Since the Tecumseh engines went out of production eighteen years ago you will probably need to look for aftermarket parts. The attached thread has some part numbers that may aid you in your search.

All new rigs that come here need something, so they all get a turn in the garage for fluids/grease and all that. Well my new C-81 from the Wheel Horse Show had a pretty good oil leak that I didn’t notice at first. Showed up after a 20 minute drive. Turned out the fuel pump gasket was on UPSIDE DOWN! Had a new gasket here in stock and it was an easy fix. I don’t have a gasket for the carb to engine block as that one isn’t correct, but it does seem to seal. Any reason I need to do the carb gasket???

https://www.partstree.com/models/22-13ke01-252-h-toro-yard-tractor-1988/drive-belt-and-pulleys-automatic-model-23/ Should be able to remove the pulley and fan in the tractor.

Sorry for your loss, Sir. My thoughts and prayers for you and yours.

Today I fabricated the lift link arm and the attaching block for the grader frame. I ran across an issue with the Tach-A-Matic, it is extremely sloppy. I can rock the grader frame up and down around 3/16" to 1/4" on each side and side to side about 1/4" or more. I also ran into a issue with the distance between the two pins on the lift arm. Per the specs I found here on the forum the distance is supposed to be 9-3/4" between pins. Between the sloppiness of the Tach-A-Matic and the 9-3/4" dimension I cold only raise the blade off the ground about 1/2". I found that using a floor jack to force the pivot end of the grader frame upwards in the Tach-A-Matic I could get a little more lift height but not much. I then added a new mounting hold about 1-1/8" lower than the top pin in the lift arm. This pin location change allowed me to lift the grader blade about 2" off the ground and allows the blade to still rest fully on the ground when lowered, which seems to match what I see in pictures online. I tried searching how to repair the Tach-A-Matic and didn't find anything. Just how tight should the Tach-A-Matic hold the shaft? Should there be any up/down or fore/aft movement of the arm when it's being held by the Tach-A-Matic? Suggestions welcome

My small blocks will pop especially going down hill

Happy Independence Day America I hope you have a great day, and another 250 years!

Sounds like you're looking in the right places. My old Kohlers splutter just a tiny bit every few seconds unless under load and I've never got them adjusted properly whatever it is.

America 250 ended with a bang. That was a Big Show.

Yeah I got these decals a year ago

looks like a one piece decal. I think he makes the decals in 3 separate pieces (for ease of applying) if ya want it that way but its been a while since I was on his web page.

You'll probably need to wait a bit to hear back from him. Also he probably isn't making them right now, he told me last year he is pretty busy during the summer, so he typically doesn't make them until the fall.

I grabbed this Horror Fright fan on the clearance shelf yesterday. Then got 15% off and used my $15 HF money as well!

You missed out Squirrels ... there was a guy at the BS that had just a pile of them. He was the guy from Canada I believe. I asked him the prices and he wasn't exactly giving them away. About average prices we see tho and he was doing mods to make them more user friendly. Gotta applaud you Brad for making your own. @Achto makes a lot of his own stuff just for the satisfaction. Only thing i can suggest is a different way to do the lock lever. A real PIA to work when it accumulates gravel dust & dirt and for us old farts to bend over for it.

I also used the marine primer bulbs for many years and they are effective in repriming the fuel pump. The fuel drain down problem is a result of both of the fuel pump check valves failing to seal properly. This can only get worse and the pump will eventually fail to supply a good fuel supply to the carb. With the price of a good primer bulb and a good e- pump comparable in price, When my primer bulbs start to harden and crack, I now replace them with an e-pump.

Thanks Dave! Of the four Wheel Horses that I currently have, this one is by far the best of the bunch. My biggest concern when I brought it home was the vertical exhaust, I figured there was a pretty good chance that the top end might be rusted badly. Fortunately that turned out to not be the case. The engine runs like a top Thanks again! Brad

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Yesterday Eloise and Cylvia went camping! Our friend’s pusher “Cylvia” has the 8.3 Cummins that I longed for so badly. Eloise has the 7.2 3126 CAT. Accelerating to highway speeds, or off highway, I felt very light on the throttle. When we arrived to the campground about an hour and a half away, he mentioned how he could not keep up with me on take offs. Once again, the 100 hp lesser engine has impressed me! Happy 250th Independence Day, America!

@Achto @jeremi3210 @joebob @Wild Bill 633 @Streetrodchev @oldiron613 @C100_8

Like suggested above, spray some soapy water on the dash first. Use a plastic body filler spreader or a credit card to help flatten the decal out on to the part. Always start in the middle of the decal and work towards the outside.

A view of the cargo carrier which willbe retro fitted to use on a slot hitch.

I have done a similar thing by cutting a narrow wedge out of the threaded end of a pipe. The edge of the wedge will knock all the accumulated rust and carbon off and it goes into the pipe as you turn it.

I have been able to get a little more work done on the Patina Special RJ. I installed the gas tank today . I also finished my Harley Davidson Softail Chrome heat shield that I use for the Wheel Horse exhaust pipe cover. I have used these on two other Wheel Horse RJs as opposed to an original or remake heat shield. These are cheaper on eBay than a remake RJ heat shield , they add "BLING" and the broom handle clips fit perfect in the black slots that Harley Davidson has on these shields. I drill two 1/20 holes in the center spot of the underside bracket H/D has on these. I also still have an old Briggs muffler I am goi g to use on this one! My next couple steps are to put the gas line, throttle cable, align the drive pulley, place a belt and a repo drive belt guard. If you look at the hood I decided to bolt down the gas tank straps (I used the originals) but did not want to weld them back on. However, I did have to bolt them on the top as the heads had to be smooth and short underneath to allow the tank to set correctly. The Kohler K91 motor is a good one I had running well before installing.

You don't need a machine shop to thread those exhaust ports, you need a NPT tap. Tilt the engine over so the port is facing straight down and tap it up so the chips fall right out to the floor.

A little more work on the RJ Patina Specisl yesterday! closeup of the Wards Riverside for Pullstart! The Kohler K 91 tins. - painted International Harvester Red. I removed the drive pulley that was in this motor. With 3/4 shaft and I have an original to replace on it. Unusual muffler in this Kohler K91 that I am going to keep. I will thread the exhaust end and place 3/4 black pipe with a pepper pot muffler on the end! My patina fender pan looks good on the RJ patina Special and I have a good seat, left cable . I placed a rear hitch on the transmission case yesterday also.

Only tractor guys would understand making a statement about "tires" in the same way we would talk about the good looking girl across the aisle back in our school days!

They would look & perform good on any round hood.

I love those tires but old?? They look brand new minus the nubbies. Tread pattern is almost the 6-12 version of these. I get a lot of complements on the plow field about their performance.

Bought the blue one last August and it was $2800 delivered and got the red one from the same guy today for $2675 delivered. They have some scratches and some dings but overall are very good shape. Door seals are guaranteed to be leak free and the hardware is in great shape. Very satisfied. Should be able to do a complete shop for less than $10k, hopefully . You can buy a new or “one tripper” for $4500/5000 but these will suite my need. The 20 footers are usually more because they are less common I’m told. Depends on where you are I guess.

I graded the driveway with the 753 this morning.

@ELET Productions go here to become a supporter: https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/store/