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October 25, 1884 1st "World Championship" Baseball Series, Polo Grounds, NYC: Providence Grays (NL) beat NY Mets (American Association) 12-2 in 6 innings for a 3-game sweep; game abandoned because of bitter cold.

Late to the show. Truly a unique Wheel Horse trailer. But no hydraulic dump? Oh, the humanity!

Buttoned up a bunch of small things. Welded some proper hinges to the seat, plumbed the hydraulic system, filled it up (no leaks!), installed new air cleaner elements, fitted an extra heat shield/mesh at the drivers station, added small exhaust tip (not sufficient unfortunately) installed new drivechains and put on all the engine cooling shrouds. Before testing the hydraulic system on full chooch I wanted to purge the oil-lines and hydraulic valves of old oil. To do so I hooked the belt on the oil pump pulley and the other end around the drillchuck of a battery powered drill. Gave it a spin and waited for the oil to make it's way through the system. Worked like a dream! Could even build a bit of pressure that way until the belt started to slip on my drillchuck. After that it was time for the real test. Fire it up and see what it does.. thanks to my SO for being the cam-opetator. Went pretty well and still no leaks Next up comes the 'fun' part of fitting some new rubber to the old rims and see what it does in the great outdoors. Now I do have a question for the engine doctors out there. As you can hear the engine runs okay but coughs a bit. I loves to rev and runs fine in the upper rpms but if I throttle it down past halfway full throttle it dies even when I re-apply full throttle, while still having good momentum going in the flywheel so to say. Is this a 'clean-the-carb-well-and-reassemble' issue or a tuning issue. Or perhaps something ignition related or valves etc..?

I've had several of those 2 piece tanks and never one that didn't leak to some extent. I don't think there's a gasket coating that exists that will permanently stop the issue. Really it's just a bad design. Wheel Horse came out with a service bulletin on it which involved actually installing an inner tank to solve the issue. I think I found a better method. There's many fuel tank liners out there and they will likely work as well but I've never tried them so I can't vouch for them but I know this stuff works. I think I can say permanent because I've never had one leak after using it. The key to it is cleanliness. I removed the old gasket and cleaned everything until it was sterile. I reassembled it and did some more cleaning. I let it sit in the sun several days to make sure any trace of moisture was gone. I plugged the threaded hole with a nylon fitting. I used maybe a quarter cup of Red Kote and swirled it around the edge where the two pieces meet. It doesn't take much. You don't need to coat the entire tank, just where the seal is. I let it dry several days and repeated. When I was done with the sealer I let it dry for many days. The latest one I've done is my current 854 and that's been 8 years now.

And as Trina says.... I know where to buy more paint!

Slowly cleaning up and prepping this C-145 for winter snow chores. Wheels and tires are done! Rears are Carlisle All Trails in 23x8.0x12 Fronts are Carlisle in 18x6.50x8

The switch in your hand has an I (eye) terminal for battery ignition and the 1994 312 has magneto ignition. The M terminal is required and it connects to the ground terminal in the OFF position. That is what kills the ignition. If you can disconnect the blue wires to the magneto it should run. Do not allow any battery voltage to get to those blue wires. That creates magneto smoke.

I often pull one plug at a time on my twins when trying to locate a problem. They do run on one cylinder.

I used a nice old ammo box on my lever steer. Over center clasp, nice heavy gasket.

Same tractor with all 4 wheels freshened up.

The 754 has had the fuel tank apart and whoever did it used some kind of gummy sealant on both sides of the gasket. I noticed that it randomly shed drips of gasoline. By randomly, Maybe a drop or two one day - then dry for 3 or 4 days, then a drip - not necessarily in the same location. So, I took it off today and opened it up. The first thing I noticed is that none of the Allen head screws holding together were very tight. The second thing I noticed is that one of the threaded holes appears to have been repaired with JB Weld (or something similar). Perhaps that was their reasoning for not over-tightening the screws. The gasket is still perfectly flat with no indentation from being compressed, and the use of whatever kind of gasket varnish it was coated in. Anyway, the repaired crack appears to be contained to the inner side of the tank and everything else seems okay to my unexperienced eyes. I'm ordering a new gasket but looking for tips or advice from anyone who has had these tanks apart, or experienced anything similar. EDIT: I see Lowell references "Permatex Aviation Sealant" - possibly the goop I found on my tank? Anyone using something better?

@bradleydavidgood personally have added a light / medium extension spring to all my , choke / throttle cables , at the opposite end , to pull it closed / stop ? that way you always have a MOVEMENT ASSIST , to any cable movement , of course ,all my cables are lubricated for movement function , https://www.google.com/search?q=light+extension+spring&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&oq=light+extension+spring+&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyCggAEEUYFhge like 3-1 penetrating oil , easy to experiment on this , years in usage , consistently work . pete

I used this KBS product on a 502 two piecer that @Andy N. now has. I was too sceered to take it apart for fear of bad threads. 'Sides figured by the time I got a gasket from Lowell and Permatex and possibly dealing with bad threads i was ahead. I was sold on this brand since I used it before on a Tecky oval tank that was full of pin holes with great luck. . I soldered up the biggest holes and the ones I missed had the seal gooing out which I considered a good sign. The big thing with this product is use all three components and follow the destructions to the letter. https://www.amazon.com/KBS-Coatings-52000-Sealer-Gallon/dp/B000IBDIX2/ref=sr_1_1?crid=176XR3BJQCOI&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.VRrcUbU1iANAvxPODhOQO3xt4DcrZWHcPSX9eZkdvpHNP0AC30S3mP6VPjtv37JPU2A2RJNaGbc8AmnTHRce8DIMeiJSqdUGig2reSj9k6XZhdY1NzqYLYl4jql6C5yxmVYB0ZFbrT28pgq5FqILHabaGezHzaV1IZ2vFvNV3whPFCC_HFrMsqdB4A_bMmbNBSp9eb_Ari5mNfQ_9LednHWKBRRpZeGOY_7yRFFb17yWDM2Gi2bqk0CWJ30gDQHETMdV444TCG6aL54YwpIM6xTZ2Ic3zOJz_dFeuT-MWjM.xIbyvN4P2rS1Xo9cNfEOAlhKVgq439WeW2G6P6b43vI&dib_tag=se&keywords=kbs+tank+sealer+kit&qid=1792930810&sprefix=kbs+tank%2Caps%2C205&sr=8-1&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.9fe8cbfa-bf43-43d1-a707-3f4e65a4b666

When I do this I use are longer bolt with about 3/8" of unthreaded rod below the head. This way the rotating parts are not pivoting on bolt threads which will cause wear. The unthreaded part extends through the complete assembly plus a bit. Add enough flat washers below the nut so there is room for future adjustment. Cut off the threads that are not used. Reaching in with two wrenches to make future adjustments is a breeze.

I would add a diode to the magneto wire to prevent any stray voltage from getting back to the magneto. With the M terminal connected to the A terminal in the OFF position it could back feed momentarily releasing the magneto smoke.

Yes, but in all honesty it wasn't a deep clean, more of a in-situ quickie.. Fuel pump I thoroughly rinsed with fresh fuel (hooked up tank/feedline and let the engine run on an aux. tank) after installing new fuel lines. Sparkplug is new and freshly installed. Reading your reply gives me the idea that the carb is indeed the first place to carefully inspect and clean before anything else?

Older pic but thought it was fitting for this thread. Carter N carb off a 551 Wheel horse Tecumseh H55

I bought my C-120 Auto with deck, snowplow, weights and chains for $400 - but that's in Indiana where I imagine they are easier to find than in Florida. Likewise, so are parts. I converted it over to hydraulic lift. Only major issue was the axles and hubs were shot - but again, parts are more readily available in Indiana. I have 3 other tractors, but the C-120 is still my best handling machine.

How about a $5 swap meet find that yielded a nice fuel pump, and more importantly, the governor disc I need for my K161? AI can edit my feet out of the picture if that helps!

Happy Birthday

My Horse Herd , From left to right, 1960 model 550 , 1961 model 701, 1966 model 856, 1967 model 1057, 1970 Commando V8, 1971 Charger 12 Automatic.

I have used a small extra heavy duty C-clamp to push the pin in where swinging a hammer is impossible.

Always start with a compression test, that won't always find a loose valve seat, but if the compression is low pull the head. The front head is easy, just unplug the headlight wires and pull the hinge pin and remove the hood, then the head access will be wide open. What I heard, in the all too brief video, sounds like the noise is at engine speed, a valve issue will be half the engine speed. You might want to engage the PTO and see if the noise changes.

The bearing noise is there so you can tell it's turned on over the roar of Wild Bill on the P.A.!

You may want to rethink that , the IGNITION COIL is doing that, not the condenser (Capacitor) it protects the point from an arc.

I install the taller spindles for clearance too... but for my chipper in particular. The extended length of the chipper body is raised exponentially by the front axle being only an inch higher. Add taller front tires and it made all the difference.

Me too. then again everything that occurred less then fifty years ago all happened yesterday! Wedding Receptions and some Celebrations of Life wouldn't be complete without a good Chicken Dance and the YMCA.

Cents yo live 49 miles from civilization, that thing have enough battery power to make a round trip to sneak off to the nearest distillery?

The horse trading yesterday in Boonville, Indiana went well! Ken McKrendee and i both had a great visit! I got a new to me 701 that Ken bought several years ago from Larry Greener and i traded an RJ and 4 wheel Wheel Horse wagon!

So somebody else who shall not be named Sylvia decided 12 psi was not enough in a tire and figured these where 8 bolt rims that needed 80. And promptly blew out a tire that was dry rotted for from sitting flat for 20 years. Ok fine no big deal a set of new shoes in order right? Well to hell with that lets just put some slime in ... along with a can of tune up in a can with rings that are smoking in a electric motor. Alrighty then... wonder if the poor sob that wanted to do things right had to deal with that? Good thing you took a real day job Kev and didn't have time to deal with this crap. The rim was a real pain to get off even with a special hub puller... then deal with the slime. I've had tires & rims a lot older than this better to deal with! So all said and done right ready to work as the Good Lord intended. New shoes/blasted and painted rims. Did I mention fronts don't hold air either? Blasted and painted them too. Bead sealer works wonders. Still have to deal with the battery acid that was sloshed down around the pan and started corroding things. You boys don't wanna see a pic of that mess. She likes hauling saw gear out to the wood lot tho.

Yep, probably too big for fronts (rub on frame? bore length?) Garden trailer seems likely, or some other implement.

Happy Birthday @SPINJIM we are all glad you were born.

Happy Birthday Jim!

Have a Great Day Jim

Wheel Horse clocks.

Happy Birthday Jim I hope you have a great day!

I swapped @cafoose one a while back. Had to scoot on my rear all way home after that one it was on fire. .

Made this Wheel Horse receiver hitch cover.

The addition of tubes in the rear tires will allow you to fill them with winter windshield fluid - about 5 gallons per tire, another 35 lbs of weight per wheel - where it belongs. OR - no tubes but use RimGard (beet juice) IF it is available near you. Almost 10 lbs per gallon and does not damage the tire or rim. It must be dealer installed though, I understand. Adding shallow inner wheel weights - about another 35 lbs each helps too. Ditch the cement filled plastic weights and upgrade to the cast iron ones gets you even more weight, although it can be pricey. I am not a fan of adding weight on the frame / hitch areas, as that puts more load on the rear axle bearings. IMHO, the best place for the weight in on / in the wheels... AND, you get an added benefit from the liquid sloshing around inside - once it is in motion, it continues to do so - a huge benefit while plowing! Front wheel weights and AG style tires make a huge difference too in the snow...

Allright guys...I finally have a shiny tractor that rivals Karls C-160 . I bought Eldons 416-H at the show and I LOVE IT!!!! The tractor is so smooth and tight that I have put another 1.5 hours on it today . Its a total pleasure to drive. Now I wasnt really thinkin of buyin this tractor till Eldon pulled his "Used car salesman trick" on me. Eldon and I had to get out to the back 40 to load up Karls show stuff so he jumps on his C-520 and I start off on foot cause my kid has my tractor and is no-where to be seen. Eldon see's this and says "Mike, why dont you take the 416 out to the parkin lot instead of walkin". So I do and after I got a couple hundred feet of drivin it under my belt I started to think "Man is this thing smooth". He musta known that one drive and I would be hooked. I ended up askin Eldon to back out the deck and mule drive and he gave me a great price and I'm extremely happy with this years show score. So Eldon, thanks for this tractor!!!!! Mike.............. PS..if any of you guys drive one of his tractors for sale your gonna buy it!!

For some reason this was a tough post to open, but now that it is open I see you scored a fine lookin Raider. I allways liked the "racing stripes" down the center of the hood. Mike..............