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July 11, 1972, Honda introduces its first Civic, a new breed of subcompact, fuel-saving car. It arrives just in time for the energy crisis of 1973, which brings higher gas prices, long lines and occasional fistfights at the pump.

Just fill to the top of the plug it will be enough. 80/90 weight. No need to flush unless what comes out is milky. Take a pic of what comes out and we'll tell you if it needs flushing. Many of us like to jack the front up as high as safely possible. Another cup or so will come out "over the hump".

Aluminum is very susceptible to galvanic corrosion when in contact with a dissimilar metal. Stainless steel fasteners should have been used.

And then a few years later, Hightower had driving lessons.

If easily accessable, remove the shifter & boot and fill thru the hole on top. A good excuse to see if the boot needs to be replaced. That angled fill on the side is a carryover from the old 4 speed design that held 1-1/2 quarts.. You need to fill higher than that. Two quarts. As mentioned above - look at what comes out... not uncommon to see a milky mix of oil & water. Extreme cases - loose bearing needles, chips of gear teeth...

Not wanting to do too much to this c-161 that is mostly original, I'm making an exception for solid shaker mounts. That last one seems to always be a challenge but I loosened one of the mounting blocks and was able to start that last bolt. This shored up the primary ground wire while I was at it so that's a plus.

Our volunteer fire company did a how long will it run without oil and coolant pool on a 1952 Chevy six. The engine was warmed up, shut off, fluids drained then restarted with a brick on the throttle pedal. Tickets were sold as a blind pull, you didn't know how how many minutes you bought until you pulled your ticket from the drum. We sold sixty tickets at $ 10.00 each who knew it would run for over an hour without oil and water. It began rattling pretty good at about twenty minutes, stunk real bad at about thirty minutes then started slowing down and backfiring at about fifty five minutes but kept chugging until about an hour and fifteen minutes. The winner declined the opportunity to own the old Chevy, just took his $ 300.00 winnings and donated a hundred of it back to the fire company.

We had a Dodge Dakota at work for pickups & deliveries that had a cap... one day it came back minus the cap - it flew off on Rt 95!

I zinc plated more M37 parts yesterday. Many of these parts will eventually be painted, but the plating will give them extra protection.

I’ve been in this toolbox for over 25 years. I’ve never decorated it up with stickers like some guys do because i’ve never really found many that i was ok being “stuck” with. Kinda like deciding on a tattoo. I guess that explains why i have no tattoos either. But these stickers were an obviously worthy addition.

@buckrancher Got the rear cargo carrier slot hitch mount mocked up using pieces from the carrier kit and some scrap laying around.

1964 34R/34E Lawn Ranger The two holes on the hood are for thumb screws. The left hole in the dash is for the ignition kill switch and the right hole is for the throttle. The lower center hole is for the electric starter switch (34E) i think the choke may have been on the engine. Round hoods don’t pop up for sale that often any more, at least not around here. The 32” deck appears solid. Bearings are available. Never had a need to replace the blades on any of mine, just a quick sharpening. These gear drive rear discharge decks cut beautifully, and they don’t blast grass all over anything in your path also. Cutting height on the early gear drive decks is changed by unbolting the deck wheels and moving them up or down in a series of holes. The rest of the hood appears solid and reasonably straight. The cut area could be repaired but i would probably leave it if it’s going to be a work tractor. As with any hobby, you can throw more money at it than it’ll ever be worth, but spending maybe $500 total to make a good mower out of it is far better than throwing money away fixing up a big box store model in my opinion.

I’m getting the 68 back together.I wired it up using a solenoid and a 103990 Ignition switch as suggested by @953 nut it was tight but I found a spot by the tower. I put on a new drive belt ,had to cobble together some fuel line wile I wait for replacement line. There is a outer bearing that should be replaced on the generator.It wines a bit even after greasing both bearings but is working fine. Today I’ll flush the trans and replace gear oil. The deck is ready I just have to sharpen the blades. I have to say the 68 commando has an interesting drive set up for the deck with the gears and belts but everything seems to be good.’ Shes running great with zero smoke . The intake valve is slightly out of speck and I’ll have to replace that too. But she’s running great let’s see if I can post a video IMG_2212.mov

32" blades -nla 36" blades https://www.partstree.com/parts/toro-8014/

The back of the my camper shell was ever so lightly loose so I decided to tighten the bolts a bit. I decided to check the other five bolts and below is what one of them looked like. One failing isn't much of an issue but if the majority of the others had rusted, this could have lead to a disaster Easy to miss some important maintenance.

This is the pump I have on all my tractors.

Recently purchased this lawn tractor which I believe is a lawn master for a whole $75 with hopes of restoring it to its former glory and eventually getting some attachments and using it. Trying to identify and get most of the parts I need to do so but have been stuck on the trans axle mainly but also what this thing started out as. Has the frame painted like a porter cable and one other lawn master I’ve seen but obviously was repainted red and even found some small spots of yellow paint on the frame. Anyways can’t find any peerless models that match the trans axle exactly and with some research found out when dura corp first started making the lawn masters and moto mowers they used a trans axle they built in house. But with how much was modified on this thing I’m hoping with these pictures someone on here can help me. On the bright side the 6hp kholer isn’t locked up and still has plenty of oil in it, the gas tank was dry as a bone when I picked it up and the gear oil in the trans axle doesn’t look all that old so my hopes are high for getting her going again, just gonna need a lot of cosmetic and electrical work. I appreciate any and all advice and tips!

Those are for the choke and throttle

Going by factory spec that's challenging for a 6 or 8 speed. That side fill will barely allow 1.5 qts. The fill quantity is 2 qts. Can the tractor be lifted from the left side >>safely<< enough to get the full amount in?

Good job as always getting those motors running. If John and Keven are there guaranteed it would run. running.

@Natejc_98 's '73 8 HP 4 speed. Hood off for ease of access to repair.

Just in the nick of time….Front end Friday. I would have gotten a better picture but I had shorts on and bare knees. Gravel and skin don't mix well.

Moving the amount the rod moves also changed the amount the clutch idler moves. Decreasing travel may lead to the belt not releasing.

I built one too a while back. @squonk will recognize the frame.

Revenge is best served cold!

Yup looks to have started out as a Lawnmaster... That face takes a bit of getting used to though...! The bug eyes & crooked smile!

Bradley You will find in time that collecting these tractors is habit forming. It is all about the chase and the excitement of finding them. Also fixing them up and making them a runner. Also you live in one of the hot spots for collecting. Enjoy what ever you do.

Thanks for becoming a Supporter! Now that your a lifetime supporter, here's what they didn't tell you up front. Horses are herd animals. Once you have one, other's jump on your truck and trailer to join it. One you have several you just move them around so the wife only see a few at a time. The attach-a- matic makes it easier to change implements, but that's no reason to not have one tractor per implement, plus one spare to joy ride on, then the kids or grand kids need some to ride on. My wife doesn't ask me how many tractors I have and I don't ask her how many sewing machines she has But I do keep a comfortable chair in the shop in case I need to sleep there.

I believe in stock form the Wheel horse rears are just as tuff or tougher than The boo boo Cubs . Them pullers like the cub running gears because of the Big tractor style clutch and say they loose power from running belt drive which I can see there point but Ive seen a few belt drive Wheel Horses that were hard to beat on the pulling track. Absolutely I have had a few restored myself in years gone bye (Cockshutt 30, Cockshutt 50, Oliver 66, Afew JD's and several Older Fords) I tractor pulled with both the Cockshutts and the Oilver 66 and done very well. These WH's give me the same satisfaction and joy but are so much easier to store and fool with, quality's I appreciate the older I get.

While some other garden tractor manufacturers made some things stronger then Wheelhorse. Cub Cadet rear ends for example. Which that was only because they used a existing rear end that they already made for small tractors. NOTHING beats the "keep it simple stupid" of the Wheelhorse's because of that, I enjoy working on them. Other garden tractors are not as enjoyable to work on. But to put it simply, yes they as good as they seem to be. There is a reason almost everyone on this forum has more then one. Many have 10+ The kohler engines still have good parts support so yes it can still easily be done. A good chunk of what costs money rebuilding the engines is the machine work. As far as transmissions go most of Wheelhorse's are pretty bulletproof, the one in your tractor is the best of the 8 speeds. Nope as far as I know, there are no weak links that can't be fixed.

You mean we need more than one? Interesting. What will I tell my wife? I already have a Farmall 140, a Massey Furguson Super 90, and tomorrow I am picking up a Ford 8N. I can't imagine what else I need but I'm open to new ideas like that. I'm really impressed by the quality that this thing seems to have which is rare. Are they as good as they seem to be? I'm good with mechanics so seems to me I just bought the tractor I can keep for a very long time. Good parts available, can rebuild the motor if necessary right? How's the transmissions last? Are there any weak links that can't be fixed? Thanks!

Awesome you r hooked now I see future Wheel Horses in your future

Thank you Tony Toro and Handy Don. I did order a fuel pump just like the one in the picture. Funny thing is Amazon would not ship it to my PO Box or to my street address. You can't order directing from Sten so I ordered it from Zoro. I will also try the new diaphragm again and in stall like Handy Don suggested

This is why Red Square is the best forum on the net . Thanks for everyone who made this happen even the two big boss supervisors .

plus peace of mind of not burning up a good engine because of gas in the oil pan.

If you made the diaphragm taut across the body of the pump when you “recut” the holes, then you made it impossible for the mechanism to move the diaphragm up and down to pump fuel. Worse, if the mechanism pushes hard enough against the stretched diapharagm, it causes the rubber to split and gas flows into the oil sump. The holes were likely correct. Some aftermarket diaphragm’s stems are not cut precisely and do require minor adjustments. Correct install: FIRST, plate sand the faces of the body halves to be sure they are flat (the pump body flanges are fairly soft and can be warped by excessive tightening of the closure screws). Connect the diaphragm stem. Put the screws through the upper body, gently forcing the diaphragm onto the screws. Operate the actuator to its limit in one direction or the other to fully pull the diaphragm to its maximum travel. While keeping the actuator pulled, align the screws with the holes in the lower body and gradually tighten the screws sequentially across the body. The diaphragm edges will “scrunch” to make a good seal. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN

Install an electric fuel pump.

Loaded the log splitter for delivery to my son tomorrow. That front hitch on the 312H sure does make it easy to push equipment around. Then mowed around the neighbor's fence lines. They were busy picking canteloupes.

Yes sir. They installed it and the sheetmetal this morning. Future meet and greet spot hopefully.

Those cables are junk. A starter gen takes about 60 amps to start turning the engine. And you need clean grounds including where the gen and gen bracket mounts.

I'd start with checking all your grounds and redoing the battery cables. That positive cable looks like it needed replaced 20 years ago.

I have no gas being pumped by my Kohler K 103 fuel pump. I replaced the diaphragm, the holes in the new one didn't line up so I had to recut them and I had to also modify the stem. The new diaphragm did not resolve my issue and plus now it leaks gas. I cannot find an exact replacement one. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Looks familar - we have Bridge supports that look like that here in RI !!