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Just took my seat on the plane..how come nobody wants to ask about my shirt OR talk tractors .

Those guys are full of it ... best way to put them on is order two sets. Take the first set and crumble them up and toss them. Take the second set and give them to @Achto and pay him to be your friend and he'll put them on ...

It appears that you are boxed in, is that to keep you away from normal folks?

Needed to remove an old pool sand filter today and this was the logical scenario I could think of to get it moved around.

May 5, 1978, area residents line up outside a renovated gas station in Burlington, Vermont, for the grand opening of Ben & Jerry’s Homemade. Opened by childhood friends Ben Cohen and Jerry Greenfield, the store sells soups, crêpes and pottery, but it is their homemade ice cream, made with locally sourced cream and butterfat and flavorful chunks of nuts, cookies, fruit and candy, that become the main attraction.

Some work on new steel box for WH trailer (dump trailer). Undercarriage needed some work,but that is the base for new "dump box" , aside original platform for hauling wood (2 in 1). Materials: old 2 wheel wheelbarrow, old bed frame, scrap metal and some new metal pieces. Fit for wooden pallet 120x80 cm. My original modified patform for hauling wood, hay, grass,branches etc

Start posting your travel itinerary ... we'll make sure someone from here is on the same plane.

Probably the fuse as Mike suggested. If not, here is a step by step method of finding the faulty part without wasting money on parts you don't need. Why won’t my starter turn over from the key switch?\ Lets take a logical step by step inspection of your starter problem. Is your PTO in the ON position, a wheel horse will not start with the PTO on. Have you had the battery load tested at an auto parts store? Have you cleaned and tightened all electrical connections including grounds? Are all fuses good and fuse holders cleaned? If these have all been done, we can check components of the starting system as follows; don’t skip a step or you may miss the problem. Be sure the transmission is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Take a pair of automotive jumper cables and connect the black cable to your battery "-" and a good clean spot on the engine. Now connect the other cable to the large post on the starter and touch the other end to the battery "+" terminal, does the starter turn over? If the starter turns over the battery and starter are good. If it didn't turn over try the same steps with the battery in your car/truck, if that cures the problem then the "good" battery wasn't so good. Presuming the starter turned over move the jumper wire from the starter post to the other end of the wire going to the starter which is one of the large posts on the solenoid. If the starter turns over when the battery is touched by the jumper as before then that cable is good, if not you have found your problem. Presuming the starter turned over move that jumper to the other terminal of the solenoid, connect the other end to the battery and use a small piece of wire to temporarily connect the battery "+" terminal to the small terminal on the solenoid, this should cause the solenoid to close and the starter to turn over. If not, the solenoid is probably the problem. If this was successful remove the large jumper cable and use the small jumper wire to the small terminal of the solenoid, the solenoid should close and the starter turn over. If not the cable to the battery is the problem. Presuming all of these have been successful remove the black jumper wire and repeat the small jumper to small terminal, if the starter turns over the ground is good. If all of these components test good then remove your ignition switch, be sure the transmission is in neutral, parking brake on, clutch depressed and PTO off. Use a small jumper to connect the terminals that were connected to the “B” and “S” terminals of the ignition switch. If the starter turns over then the PTO switch and other safety switches are operating properly and your ignition switch may be bad.

No... but a U-Haul, now that's a bit more common...

That's exactly what I kept telling myself (among other things ) as I was on my hands and knees looking fer that little spring.

Clean Clean Clean the area with rubbing alcohol. You can't clean it too much Position the decal leaving the paper on the back. Use painter's masking tape on the longer top side to hold it in perfect position. Now it can't move and keeps them from sliding. Flip up the decal that's hinged by the tape, spray the entire area with Windex ( When it dries it doesn't leave any soap residue behind.) Remove paper backing and carefully roll the decal back down and squeegee any air bubbles and Windex out. Squeegee from the center out to the edges on large decals but WH decals are small. Then remove the tape and protective cover paper. Rub the decals with a soft rag pushing down to ensure every possible area and the edges adhered well. You can probably find some good videos on youtube. We used to do car decals, lettering and pin strips for car dealers professionally back in the day. Think of those big Firebird decals on the hoods. Also did my own van lettering quite a few times.

That is my motto a lot. If it's already broke, what have you got to lose ? If you fix it, fine, if not it was broken anyways.

I replace the tube on my 520-H when I got it. Cables cost too much to try and used a rusted tube, Lee1977

In accordance with Redsquare rules, gonna need pictures...!!!

But the option of blasting did come to mind, right???

That old style PTO doesn't put end pressure on the crank so no ball bearings are needed.

I recomend one of each. Mine, an 857 and the other an 876 have the best of both worlds. I have not noticed any power loss due to being an auto. My ground is level though. 857 876

Got just enough information in it to confuse anyone who watches. The rest is completely wrong. Yeah, that's garbage!

Count me out, if God wanted me to fly he would have given me wings. The exception was our trip to Hawaii, my truck doesn't do well on the ocean.

This trip is Guam…lots of ocean here

There fixed that ...

Most folks that sit up there don't cut their own grass! My wife remarked how she would like to go with me sometime on a business trip. When we got home she remarked, "don't ever tell me again how tough you got when your away!" Why you say? She remarked, a man doesn't stay in places like that, eats at those restaurants and has it tough. I suppose we should have went on one of those scaled down trips? IDK

Just happened to my C-125...

A C145 I had had a fuse buried in the harness between the ammeter and battery. If yours had one it may have blown.

Non-believers.

There all sleeping at this hour. You heading to some tough location like a California ocean front office again?

Naww he got it all wrong Plunge... it's I ain't never seen a armored truck following a Hearst...

If they're going over a fresh paint job, it's important to sand any dust nibs out of the paint with some fine wet-sand paper (like 1000 grit). I applied my neighbor's decals dry, but I have 50 years of bodywork experience. If you're not sure, use the soapy water (just a little soap in a spray bottle of water) technique with a squeegee (use a squeegee wet or dry). Also helps if you keep your fingers wet when handling the decal. I've installed my share of Trans Am chickens! A clean smooth surface is the #1 priority.

DO NOT try to put them on without soapy water or using @JCM’s recommendations. A credit card works good to squeeze out the air bubbles and excess soapy water. Putting them on wet allows you to move the decal around to the exact spot you want it.

Thought I'd give everyone an update. Using the advise from Handy Don, I was able to put a drill bit into the end of the conduit and grab it with a pair of vise grips. After a ten minute tug of war with my wheelhorse, I was able pull out the conduit (with the remaining cable still wedge inside). A new conduit was ordered (along with a new lift cable) after I spent another 20 minutes farting around trying to get the wedged cable out. Thanks for all of your suggestions

Sad example of AI's accuracy... Sure want my Doctor using it to diagnose my maladies... not.

Welcome! Some parts - oversize piston, rings, perhaps more are either discontunued or very difficult to find, as Tecsuseh is out of business. Yet valves & gasket sets are available. You either love or hate Tecky's.... The issue with a repower is does the replacement engine have a bushing or a ball bearing (required) at the pulley end of the crank to live with the side load. Most do not... A populat upgrade is to ditch the Tecumseh and replace it with either a Kohler 7 HP K161S or an 8 HP K181S from a Wheel Horse. Direct proper drop-in replacement with great part availability.

At this point I’m looking for any excuse to get seat time lol. Doesn’t matter how small a task I’m busting out one if not both tractors.

More resistance lowers the amps so no that will not make a fuse blow. It can cause heat though and cause the fuse to melt

Smart = SEAT TIME!

When a fuse blows for no explainable reason it is likely that the fuse holder is corroded causing a poor connection, resulting in increased current and overheating.

Same I had one that had the slightest hook at the very tip, I assume from being over-tightened at one time. It was impossible to set the high idle correctly. Sometimes the tractor would die, other times it would cough or surge. I tried filing the tip, but only made things worse. I ended up finding a NOS matching part number on eBay, and now that K301 is my sweetest running engine. Easy start at any temp, steady RPM at low, high, or anywhere in between.

Well technically anyway. Just thought it was pretty cool and intersting. Bought this at the Zagray show Sat. from young man who bought stuff from me about 12-13 years ago. He was a pretty young man back then. Anyway, he started this replica RJ project. He told me those front rims are completely turned down on a lathe. Took him a long time. They may look like pulleys but under closer inspection they're not. He did the proportions by scale but forget what ratio he said it was. Not sure if it will stay like it is or if I'll do more to build it. I did sand the steering wheel smooth already as it was still a little rough and turned it black instead of the pink body filler. Also removed some rust from the shaft so it could slide down into position .

The bolts on top of the transmission should never be removed till after a thorough cleaning, and then brush away debris as bolts are removed. Wheel Horse suggests removing a bolt to aid filling the transmission but I always thought that they were asking for trouble.

Yes I will be tring it fer sure. I love taking things apart I can't wreck...

Don't know if you know this guy but those wheel weights alone are dang near worth the price. Nice to see you got the to change out fluids...

I could be wrong, but I think the bolt hole in the picture goes right through into the transmission? If so it’s imperative that you do not get any dirt, grim or anything in that hole.

Viking Valhalla doesn’t close until 9:30!? (Former LeRoyan and ND graduate here)

Hmmm A fuse, 4F powder and seal the end with JB Weld. There she blows.

Spray the CLEAN surface liberally with Non - Ammonia Windex . apply the decal and remove all the air bubbles from between surface and decal.

All good suggestions... If all else fails, we may have to blast!!....

Guess you will need to build another shed to store it.

Forgot to attach the one to give it some scale for size. It's close enough that one of the little Ohlsson & Rice engines could fit