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I just wanna say you guys made a believer outta me! Look at the head bolts, they have Liquid wrench the entire length. That spray, hammer every time you walk by a wait a few days really works! Head bolts all seemed to be the same tightness. 2 whacks with the heel of my hand and they came loose. Put a pick under the head gasket & it popped right off. Exhaust valve has a lot of debris around it. Cylinder walls are smooth, no nicks or gouges. The mule pulley guard nut came off with the same technic. Pulleys spin freely. I don't understand why the belt wouldn't come thru them. Haven't tried the tension adjuster yet. Found the regulator mounting bolts are loose.

I won't say I had to, but I've used spacers on several machines. They work well but you do need to be careful if using a mower deck because of the deck gage wheels clearance. You'll have to ream your bolt holes on your wheels to 1/2. They type of spacer also needs to be open in the center to fit a WH hub. You'll also need to use 7/16x20 bolts at about 1 and 1/4 length or raised head studs to hold the spacers on. I've never had good luck using WH wheel bolts with spacers. The heads are usually too large to get a standard socket on them inside the spacer.

I have got tires from them, they add it after you give the card information, pretty high price for slapping a address tags on or add a couple of plastic strap's to hold them together. I look around and couldn't fine any and cheaper. I ordered some OR 360 23 x 10.50 x 12 6ply. The places I found them wanted more without the tax for 4 ply.

@855project Just an FYI I love E-tanks like your using, but please have adequate ventilation. The bubbles in the tank you see are hydrogen gas which is flammable.

There is not much clearance on my 520. I always cut the inside side chain to the exact length and connect the ends with one of these connectors. Then pull the chains to the outside with the cam lock connector and install spring tensioners. This minimizes the thickness of the inside chain.

Ran out of daylight, but the reassembly fun continues… right now a lot of it is just dry fitting all the parts and making sure all the holes and everything lineup nice and putting things back in the proper order. Was really happy with the way the aluminum dash console cleaned up on the inside… It was quite a mess with corrosion! I was not able to get the pin out of the steering wheel… No matter what I tried… Even a hydraulic press. So I decided to just sever the steering shaft and it will get reinserted and spot welded. Fortunately, I’ve got lots of leather and fireproof blankets to throw over the machine when I weld the steering shaft back together. should make for an interesting video lol.

Nothing unusual jumping out at me from those images. Keep on going! Good to see no erosion of the head or piston near the exhaust valve, too. Lotsa life left in that engine. Note the “fire ring” of metal on the inner circumference of the head gasket. Ideally, your replacement should have the same feature as this makes for the longest-lasting seal.