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My neighbor takes care of two gardens. The one shown in the video and one twice as large in my yard (in photos). I found him a good deal on a nice tiller complete with all the idler pulleys. He couldn't be happier!

April 20, 2008 Danica Patrick driving for Andretti Green Racing wins the Indy Japan 300 at Twin Ring Motegi; first female driver in history to win an IndyCar Series race.

e Delivered the 314A to a new owner today. The young lady was in dire need of a tractor to do the first mowing.

When doing static timing I prefer to use a battery powered contanuity test light. Seeme like I respond more quickly to the light than a buzzer, when I hear a buzzer I look for the snooz button.

When I hear a buzzer, either I think a boiler is in alarm or the brownies are ready to come out of the oven!

More thoughts assuming the pressure and flow is the same on both sides of the piston. 1. the extending stroke generates more force than the retracting stroke 2. the rod is in compression during the extending stroke 3. the rod is more subject to bending when in compression 4. the single stage rod can be nearly as large as the piston as very little force is required to retract the piston 4. the dual stage requires the rod to be much smaller than the piston to generate a working force when retracting.

At my Dad’s plant, it was flashlights. They’d go home in a hip pocket and “forget” to come back to work in the morning. Eventually, after “losing” more than 2 per year, you had to buy a new one--suddenly losses stopped. Also, to get fresh batteries, you had to turn in the old ones (which had been stamped with the company logo when issued) -- another supply line item cost trimmed. My fave is the apocryphal story of the guy who left the construction site every Friday with a wheelbarrow load of gravel. After a couple of months, the gate guard, now curious, wanted to know what the fellow was doing with all the gravel. The reply? “Gravel, heck, I’ve been stealing wheelbarrows.”

Been using these for quite a few years now. About $12.00/4. I can change a lot of bearings and still be ahead but I haven't had to yet.

You need to have the points break open on the " S " mark and not the " T " Otherwise the timing will be late.

I get ours from Aircraft Spruce & Specialty. They have several types of valves, grommets, and the good quality electric fuel pumps available. Pricing is excellent. Service as well.

The "export" 518H models had the Eaton 1100 hydros, which are much more rugged than the domestic-equipped 700 series. If the tractors have hydraulic lift (no manual lift arm), and a oil filter under the rear fender, then they are 1100 series hydros.

I never liked the hydro on the steering column. May have liked it more if it wasn't so sloppy and that "push down" to reverse. I made quite a few changes to my 523H ergonomics- made my own foot control and raised the steering wheel a couple inches. It fits me much better. But it was alot of fabrication for what it was. Sometimes, you gotta let a machine go that isn't working out. Better for someone else to enjoy it that for it to not get used.

I had several with the control on the steering column and could never get used to it. I added foot control to all my Eaton 1100s.

There is a good chance the belt charts are wrong for this 78345 deck. Some of the columns are shifted up or down - forget which Correct belts Drive belt 102742 replaced by 94-2501 (1/2" x 103") Spindle belt 6738 (1/2" x 86")

Where are the rocks ?? When I till here the poor tiller bounces up and down violently.

Especially if you end up damaging the spindle or wheel when a cheap bearing fails.

@FLtractor Take a peek at these offerings by Redo. I used one on the Indy. METAL DASH PLATE DECALS - Redo Your Horse

Go ahead and buy a good quality bearing. A year from now you won't remember what it cost but if you buy the cheapest ones you will discover they weren't such a bargin when you are having to replace them.

Been using these guys for quite a few years now. About $12.00/4. I can change out a lot of bearings and still be ahead but they are holding up great and haven't needed to. Excellent quality that their price doesn't reflect.

Looonng first post.... LOTS to write.... For several years we've been considering an upgrade to our old wood splitter. It's a very well (re)built decades old unit that was home shop rebuilt in 2012 by a local logger. After 14 seasons of splitting it's understandably getting tired. We started a thread here, got some great info. We researched on other sites and spoke to our favorite small engine repair place. We decided that it would need the entire hydraulic system replaced and a new larger engine to meet the goals. Not at all opposed to this but it would easily cost $2,000 +. While doing research online we found a couple dual action splitters. Very intriguing. We started a thread on that here: ..... And again learned some great information along with creating some additional thought processes. We decided to get the Boss model over the HF model because of several factors. 1. Kohler engine on the Boss. 2. Too many pivot/ wear points on the HF. 3. Hydraulic control lever is centered on the Boss vs one sided operation in the HF. This is a very convenient feature for Trina in particular because she's prone to jumping around wherever the workload can be accomplished the best. 4. Overall frame strength and build quality appears better on the Boss than the HF according to multiple online sources. 5. The Boss is certified for road towing. The HF is not. (We'll visit that below) The new Boss splitter arrived this week. Overall it looks good. I agree with #4 above. The welds are solid. The frame is good thick steel. The cylinder is encapsulated in a square slider tube which is encapsulated in the frame. Purely a flat surface sliding design with no bearings. @Ed Kennell Grease will be applied. Often. @peter lena North American design but made in china. Build quality is reasonable except for a few things. The trailer tongue mount is too narrow for the main frame. We had to use washers to set the tongue to one side and add longer bolts to the other side. I WOULD NOT tow this unit on the road the way it's sent. IMHO it was not safe. That - quite frankly - pi$$ed me off. This side is flush. This side is not. See the space difference... Now imagine trying to "tighten" that enough to close the space using low quality hardware... or even great quality hardware. Not happening buster. The entire hardware package is the unfortunate cheap trash we see all too often on cheap items. Nut & bolt head sizes are inconsistent (WTH??) and lacking quality. I upgraded several bolts, added washers, and replaced the disgustingly lightweight axle castle nuts with better quality pieces. We were unable to drive the steel press fit axle dust caps in so we popped the plastic ones back on. This is fine unless/until we ever need to road tow it. The axle inner seal surface isn't even properly machined. If this was going to be towed often or long distance it would eat seals. Fast. After using it for only a few minutes it's developed an issue already. Like many splitters, It has a two stage hydraulic system. When the pressure reaches a certain level the system changes from high speed low pressure to low speed high pressure. This one WAS working like that. Now it starts high speed. Goes low speed and stays there. Shut it off and move the lever to release system pressure. Restart and repeat. I'm hoping it's an adjustment, not a defective part. We've run some decent sized beech wood through it. That went well. Power level seems good. We're thinking it should be faster though. That may be related to the above issue or possibly because it's new and needs to break in. Or.... it's just slower than we hoped. Again, overall I believe it'll be a good addition once the bugs are worked out. The work habits obviously are very different from a single action to this dual action. The fact that one can use both directions is very nice. Very weird at first too. Once a different and properly adjusted set of habits is developed we can see a new kind of usefulness. We did get the additional cross piece to split horizontally. It has its place but also has its challenges. The second split is nice IF the pieces of wood separate correctly. Because we use a lot of beech wood, that isn't practical much of the time. I'll document repairs and changes in this thread. Some changes we figured on making even before purchase, no matter what splitter we got. 1. Wheel size, tongue height & length increase. The OE tires are 4.00/4.80 x 8. Seems most splitters are standard at that. I'd likely add a set of 5 lug hubs and increase to a full size tire like we did on the other splitter. Tongue height and length will be adjusted to level and to compensate for the additional table length..(Next comment) 2. Larger flat work table. As you can see in the last picture above there are small catch shelves on the sides. The principal is good. The upward angle is actually a bit of a challenge to work with. The wood pieces want to fall back into the work area. Remember gravity? We're thinking about adding a much larger, flat work table to catch the pieces on both sides. Start the split. Set one half aside. Work with the other. Have plenty of space to move the shrinking pieces around and off the table.

If you need to hold the front with pliers, wrap it with several layers of duct tape ti prevent damage.

That's where I start but have been known to spearmint and try different settings just to see if I can make them run/start a little better.

sweet dreams

Makes troublesooting soooooooooooo easy, the problem is the BLACK wire, can't go wrong.

Just use pliers on it. It will come off. Be careful not to use pliers on the front or it will scar it a bit. Sometimes it's easier if you remove the four screws hold the dash panel on. You will get more maneuverability

With the "Ejector Seat" lever on the lower left!!

Here is a shaker mount K bolted direct to frame. Spacers are the same ones used in a 8hp shaker mount plus 3 washers... No belt guard mods needed

Finally able to wrap this project up. Well, almost. will get into that at the end of this post. First we'll take a look back at where I started. And finally some pictures after a few hours work. Thanks for following along. Sure looks purty, just wish I could get it running right. I spent a fair amount of time trying different things with the engine today, but I just can't seem to get it to run good at high RPMs. Been a while since I've had an engine kick my but like this. I know that I have to be missing something, just wish that some type of epiphany would hurry up & hit me.

So I pulled the trigger on the bearings @Achto posted since i have a set to paint. They look pretty good ... fairly tight and only maybe a couple thou of wiggle. Picked a seal and yah very little grease in them so they will get repacked with greasy Pete.

BC you are now in @Pullstart’s realm! 🫡 I’m guessing that is at least 150 kilos over the Ranger’s recommended max load.

Five hour drive to the band saw location for an 8:00 am load, my poor Ranger.

https://www.finditparts.com/products/10408301/ags-company-pa451?srsltid=AfmBOorBjGflTr77-5J5LW5UDYcmamNXvtlYO_PuGF6wce0bU_bhveNc regularly refer to running a frame length steel fuel line , eliminating a long fuel hose break down area , this easily tucks up into the upper inside frame corner bend , make up your own , mount spots to related frame holes mine are finished off with a clear , fuel rated hose , filter, fuel check valve to carb , filter holding view of standing fuel to carb , lots of time on this , also sta bil in fuel , instant starts , been in use for years , all my small engines . another CHRONIC ISSUE , LONG ELIMINATED . PETE

The only place where Wheel Horse used steel fuel lines was on early Kohler engine powered models, between the pump and carburetor. Because of significant vibrations, they used the anti-vibration fittings with a rubber compression seal inside. This was a Kohler innovation, Eventually they were all replaced with flexible (rubber/PVC/synthetic) hoses. Easier to wind through tough angles and bends. Yes, rubber tubing did have some drawbacks, but modern improvements have made them much better. I have redone steel brake lines on cars and found it time consuming by having to use a bender every time you need to go over, under, around, and through. Just my two cents worth

Exported models are often different than what we see. Just a guess at what you are looking at. The D&A file has the info.

Thanks for the responses everyone, they've all been VERY helpful! So, since I'm using this same pan on both engines I don't need the cradles? The HH100 out of my Raider is long gone but I do remember that riser plate now that I see the diagram. I'm not sure if I still have it or not. I was going to put an HH120 back in it until I realized Tecumseh engines and I don't pay well together. I also think I may have a belt guard out of a roached '68 Electro 12 I parted out years ago. A friend has an Electro 12 so I gave him the carcass to pick over and I don't remember what all was still on it. I would have kept it but it was in REALLY bad shape, I still have the engine though sitting next to the HH120 i'll probably never use. I'll have to dig out my parts boxes and see what I kept.

She was a good Indycar driver, but left a lot to be desired as a NASCAR driver. Way too whiny & pouty. Indy cars are weighed with the driver onboard - all fairly equal. NASCAR cars are not - 3800 pounds without the driver. There were many protests claiming that having 100 lb Danica drive was an unfair advantage compared to the good ol' boys that weighed twice as much!! She need more advantage than that!!

A new S/G and regulator will be big bucks. But first clean up your wiring grounds mountings etc. Then There are a couple simple tests to see where the problem ...if it still exists might be. Do you have a multi-meter?

I find if you go to a bearing dealer you can get a better bearing. I am lucky enough to have two dealers in town I live in. Bearings like Timkin! This company has been in business for many years. Where I used to work, the maintenance crew guys that I knew very well always used Timpkin bearings for repairs.

You don't need to buy a new generator, taking the top off of the regulator the is a way to adjust it so it puts out more. However, before you do that, I'd suggest cleaning up all your grounds. I.e, the generator mount onto the engine, where the ground wire goes. If that don't work, you can go through the generator fairly easily with some skf 6203 bearings from Amazon and a brush and spring kit, I don't know the p/n right now. I'll upload a video on how to go through them If none of this works, you may need to do as my dad and I did and look up a starter generator repair/rebuild shop local to you. Ours ended up being both a bad regulator and bad armature

If it seems to be running in the low flow/high pressure circuit only, there may be an external relief adjustment (not the main system pressure relief at the valve). You would see something on the pump body externally. Most of the pumps I have seen are fixed valving for the stage operation. The speed difference in the stages of the pump operation are quite noticeable, and if you say it returned to normal operation after you relieve the system flow, I'm wondering if you have a sticky valve in the pump. Of course, the speed and force of the actions in either direction will be different due to the volumetric differences as others have noted. That is entirely normal. Losing one stage of the pump is not.

There's a mental image I didn't need before bed!

Thats kind of a given… duh!!

Good advice, thanks. Clean those grounds and fuses. I had to do that exact thing on our old 8N ford's solenoid, when I drug it home, it had a bad ground....a few min with a wire brush and it worked fine. You would think I would have thought of that in this case but, I didn't.

Yep, I’m still grinding away on this. I have 34 or so days until Jada’s graduation party. Most every piece needs to be cut to length and trimmed somehow to fit. It’s time consuming, so I am using whatever dry weather I have to get it done.

You might not want to work on my tractors, I use all black except for the positive battery cables, granted black is all I have to work with at the moment so that also plays a part

Found it.... bad solenoid. We piped gas to the pump and it fired right up... idles like a new one. Now, if it only could steer.

FWIW — I had my mitral and aortic valves replaced 28 years ago. My surgery was NOT “minimally invasive”; 6-8 inch opening in my chest which was wired back together (makes for really impressive chest x-rays). I would not be here now without that surgery; in my case my left ventricle was to the point of losing pumping efficiency due to enlargement (leaking mitral valve). I was only 46 at the time and feeling fine but on restricted activity; took 2-3 months of recovery which didn’t feel good; several trips back to the hospital for some know postoperative issues (chest congestion). My layman’s understanding was that the open thoracic surgery was a major factor in my extended recovery. Your minimally invasive procedure should lessen those. Get the valve replaced!! I went from restricted activity pre-surgery to being told by my heart doctor to get off my butt and do whatever I wanted (back to playing basketball for me).

I have had good luck with the Xike wheel bearings. Put a set in the 312-8 in 2015 and a set in 1989 520 in 2019 .Might be time to pull the seals and grease them. I'm Lee 1977

On to the transmission controls. It feels much better now with all new wear components. Full forward and reverse control, and it holds position properly. Also replaced the drive belt, pulley, and spring. Modified the belt guard for better Onan cooling.