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first year on my c145 had it on my 75' c120 last 2 years hydro work much better than gear drive tractor least i have hydro lift

Bought this tractor 38 years ago for mowing and snow removal mainly. At that time it came with a belly mount 3 blade mower and front plow blade. Over the years added a single moldboard and harrow that was used for a 25' x 75' garden deep with beautiful farm loam. After moving North it sat for sometime before I started to do a clean up and repaint. In October I was able to have help in splitting the A apart and replace clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and original carb stripped rebuilt and clear coated. While waiting for parts to come in I cleaned out the bellhousing and tunnel full of mouse mess and sanded up anything that needed it. Up and running now and did it ever feel good to be sitting up high listening to that 4 cylinder purr at idle, almost a nice lope to it. Change oil & filter, greased and adjust the width of the front end. If it wasn't so late in the year I would use it this Winter for a little snow plowing. Working on the front grille trying to straighten the horizontal bars now and some painting to do. I was able to locate a nice set of tools to do it. Gave it a cleaning yesterday and moved some leaves to the pile. I will update as I progress along. Pictures are through the course of years since purchase with the rims painted all red and left rear tire on backwards. It's getting there.

I would say yes it does. My 1943 D cells don’t have any voltage info.

A compression test or even better a leak down test will let you know if you have a compression issue. I would make sure that you have good compression before pulling it apart.

My other hobby (ok, obsession) is old flashlights. I’m kinda hot and cold with it though. I can easily go a year without buying one or even looking for one. Today the wife and I were in an antigue store and I wasn’t even looking for flashlights, but stumbled across this one so I picked it up to give it a once over and see what the price was. Bulb is missing and it’s not in great shade. Plus I like em older (this one is about a 1948 light). It was heavy, which usually means old dead batteries that have leaked out and corroded the inside. Yes it had old dead D cells inside, but they hadn’t leaked out. Check out the use-by date on them! Which means they were produced before that date. Bought this flashlight just for the batteries…. $7.00

Back home after spending 4 days in the BILs cabin. Notice the windmills on the far mountain above the roof. No electric or water in the cabin.

When I split my Farmall B, I bought a heavy duty trailer jack from TSC, the kind with the double casters. Bought a piece of heavy duty 1/2 steel plate and boltedi it to the jack to kit. Then place that against the tractor, to see where the two implement holes were on the transmission torque two. Drilled two holes just below that point. Then bolt the plate with the jack bolted on to the tractor. After splitting the tractor, just roll the back half away from the front. I hope you wedge the front axle before you split the tractor. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-14-in-2000-lb-dual-wheel-trailer-jack-1227931 Below is similar to what I did to split my B.

As with most days, today I was wearing one of my Wheel Horse shirts. My brother stopped by and he had one on, then a little while later my son in law stopped by and he too had one on! It wasn’t too long before we were laughing about it, so I had my bride take a picture.

Went and picked up some free rounds of wood for firewood. Perfectly cut to length...... enough to fill the 8' bed of my truck, so it was a decent amount. Brought it home and unloaded the rounds. Then we met two other couples at a newly-opened winery that is just up the road from us (www.langmanwinery.com) They have a real chef running their kitchen and they have a good selection of menu items. The actual winery is in California and they ship product to beautiful NW Arkansas. I had THE BEST french dip sandwich that I have ever had..... then came home and relaxed.....

Wow go figure ... My offer would have been missing alot of digits.... Had a customer bring in a Cub with a Kohler and it was just the plug but yes do a compression or leak down test.

It could also be as simple as a bad plug. Cheap and easy to test--you could just swap them but I’d probably buy a new one.

Here’s the three of us at a local tractor show this summer. That’s me in the middle, and after looking at this picture I realized that I’m the only one with a Wheel Horse shirt on. I’m going to have to have a talk with these boys! If they are going to drive my tractors, they need to wear the proper attire 😂

Looks like that picture and story should be in the calendar.

@OldWorkHorse broken record here , go after every lubrication point , make the rust run out , like red aerosol grease , tube applicator in tight spots , especially , auger chain area , and idler drive pully mount area , just behind blade , cannot emphasise enough , when drive function areas , can work with ease , the difference is amazing , greasy pete

Beat me to it. Got held up at a job site, otherwise I would have done the same a few hours ago.

I recently purchased this tractor used from the original owner. He kept EVERY SINGLE RECEIPT. It was well maintained and the owner did not hesitate to spend money on it. He was tired of putting money into it... He was told it needed a governor rebuilt; $500+ and he then decided to sell it. The last big spend was igniton coils ~3 months ago. Initially I couldn't reproduce the bogging down problems until it ran for a good 10+ minutes. I found the voltage regulator held in by a single stripped screw which was also the grounding strap; I could see it arcing. I pulled the motor and repaired that. I did a full test of the charging system; passed with flying colors. Ground is good from the VR to battery, etc. During reassembly I noticed a lot of missing parts ; one bolt missing from the motor mount to the frame, only two stud nuts were holding on the muffler!, found no governor spring was installed (fixed), the carb plenum was backwards! I thought for sure I found all the issues. I also thought how it looked like someone hastily threw this thing back together... It runs MUCH better and idles up and stays reved up, BUT I'm still fouling the plug on the one cylinder. I definitely have spark on that cylinder ; did a visual while cranking the motor. I'm thinking that I have two possibilities. The voltage is weak and so the spark is just not enough or the intake valve is stuck open and after running for few minutes bogs the motor completely. Could a poorly installed ignition module (not gapped .10 to the stator) cause this? Would I have spark, but not enough when under load? I'm ready the pull the motor again , but want to be sure I consider / check everything. thanks for any input

Achto that is what got me into trouble. I neglected the house and the yard for 4 years working on too many tractors. This year I put my foot down and got the house back in shape with the yard. It’s funny how 1-2-3 years goes by and you look out the window and say wow what happened here..

Have a close look with a magnifier or loupe. It looks like there's a scratch in line with where the "1" would be. I found some very old D-size batteries that 'might' have been the same brand in an antique bicycle headlight, although that was a few years ago, so I don't recall for certain. I believe they were 1-1/2 volts.

I’m not the Fig Plucker nor the Fig Plucker’s son But I shall pluck figs till the Fig Plucker comes

The price of admission sounds good but the final cost could be another story. Are you going to drop in a big diesel in it and a fifth wheel to become your new towing machine?

You can send out some Morse Code with that little button. We had one like it when I was a kid

Will eventually get a full resto. I'm usually an all in kind of guy.

Going back together pics.

Ingenious jack/support system!

Thank you Ed. Looks like effort but in reality it’s not. When doing what one loves it comes easy . I just get lost in it oblivious to anything else.

Very cool to see this beast going again!

Thank you John and everyone else for your interest .

It’s the right color! And my favorite four letter F word!

Process of using a paring chisel for fitting tenons on link below

Having rough cleared most of openings with the exception of some very small ones it is time now to add the bottom pieces which complete bottom of yoke. These are made from pieces of same board. The reason for these pieces are twofold. First most boards are not wide enough to make it out of one piece. Depending on type of yoke, would have to be a minimum of 24” wide. However despite of being nice having it in one piece structurally it is a mistake. With the cutout for the animal’s neck the grain in those pieces is short and it is almost inevitable that they will break. A lot of pressure is put on those areas when in use. Pieces are mortised into yoke’s body about 3 to 4 inches deep . Mortise is always done first. Part of yoke’s body where the shoulders meet are not always flat. This part is many times the live edge of board and it is utilized in that manner by introducing another bevel on the other side. Most opted to flatten or cut this part because it makes fitting shoulders extremely difficult. Shoulders are scribed to fit. This is a lengthy process . Perfection is a must for strength since nothing is glued. It’s all friction fit. Tenons and shoulders need to fit perfectly. I dry these parts in the oven prior to working on them. This way they are dryer than wood in mortises. When that part eventually dries and shrinks it will get tighter around tenon. If everything is done correctly they will be nearly impossible to to remove without breaking something. The fitting process is entirely done with a paring chisel a highly specialized precise tool. Leaving these parts oversize until the end is necessary as it is the only way to remove them at this point while fitting shoulders by tapping on the end of extra thickness Along with added pieces, yoke body is also only cut to shape once this and all penetrations are done to ensure no cracks occur from the mallet and chisel work.

Next comes the task of going through all piercings. Tedious work still staying away from the lines . Real tight or small areas require extreme patience and sometimes customized tools. Many outwardly pointed areas are also fragile at this point. Also important to stay perpendicular to face of board and not dig in through board thickness.

Once marked one then proceeds to drill through those parts with the appropriate size auger but staying a little away from the line. To break the monotony of the drilling sometimes I start on actually chiseling out those areas. Drilling does not actually goes through the board but stops automatically when auger’s screw tip emerges on opposite side and stops pulling. when board is planed on other side it will reveal all the holes. Not shown on these photos but board is blocked up from table.

Extremely therapeutic. My natural way of dealing with stress or worry has always been to work . It keeps me calm and grounded. This has also always been my life’s passion so I probably spend spend more time here than anywhere else combined. Sometimes I just hang out sitting on my favorite chair chair thinking, reading or just looking at things. Sometimes sipping a little expresso and Port like today😸.

Hopefully backing a lawn sweeper is not part of the test

Uh Oh ...

Now that is cool::: Keeping it in the family. One better having those T`s on while on a tractor shot.

I have one of mine on & a hoodie, kinda chilly & breezy today. Went to the local Toro dealership for Western plow parts, gotta represent...

The absolute PEAK of fashion. Indisputable.

Had to break out the heavy duty 1 foot flat head to remove the thing. She's got some lift in her.

I'd agree. Doesn't seem unreasonable though. That's quite a bit of leverage at that point.

Thanks for confirming. Having never seen one that is one serious spring.

Single stage snow blower lift sping #4629

Wheelhorsepartsandmore has them parts number #4629 they are listed in our vendor section. @ebinmaine

Ive seen similar springs in the hardware dept. at Menards also. Would think Farm and fleet or tractor supply may carry similar also.

You know, I just realized that this same picture is in the link that @gwest_ca posted, and without color, I didn’t recognize it. LOL, guess I should watch more I love lucy or something.

I'd appreciate that.

Blower weighs a ton I end up having to use a car jack to get it up and into place to lock in but once on works amazing even for a single stage short shoot on a 14hp magnum.

@Heatingman Front of spring attaches to the cross bar that the feet rest slide onto and the rear of the spring attaches to the eye bolt in the flag lift and can adjust tension by adjusting the eye bolt. Also the snowblower attaches to the front attachomatic

That spring helps you lift it. you hook one end to the lift flag and the other end to the rod the front of the footboard clamps to. You did get the flag didn't you?