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A recent poll found that just over 40% of Americans consider themselves political pundits. This is interesting, because the same poll found that just under 15% of Americans know what the word pundit means. ---- A rabbi, a pundit and a priest once decided to put their skills to the test, so they challenged each other...the challenge was who could convert a bear They all met a few days later.....the pundit and priest were ok but the rabbi was in a full body cast... so started the pundit...guess what...I read the Gita to the bear.... and now he is a pious Hindu The priest says...guess what, I read the bible to my bear....it brought tears to his eyes...he immediately had himself baptised now he is a devout christian.... Finally the Rabbi mutters....."shouldve left the circumcision for later"

I have been homebound with the flu for a few days and decided to take on a project that has been on my mind for some time. We are blessed to have a chart of drive belt sizes for all models of Wheel Horses, but the way it is laid out it can be a bit cumbersome to deal with and I have reconfigured the information in a manner I hope will be easier to use. I haven’t included all models and I apologize in advance for any mistakes or omissions I may have made. I have also included a few other tidbits. Tractor drive belts Drive belts should be fabric covered 58 – 59 RJ 1567 4L - 29 60 – 61 SUBURBAN 1569 4L -29 1961 and later Horizontal crankshaft Wheel Horses can be divided into four categories, Short Framer, Mid Frame, Long Frame, and Estate Tractors. Here is a list of short frame (41.25" Wheel Base) manual transmission Wheel Horses. All use Wheel Horse Belt # 9691 ½” X 70” cloth covered drive belt. 1961 - 701 1962 - 502, 552, 702, Lawn Ranger 1963 - 603, 633, 653, 753, Lawn Ranger 1964 - 604, 654, 704, 754, 854, 1045, Lawn Ranger 1965 - 605, 655, 855, 1055, Lawn Ranger 1966 - 606, 656, 856, Lawn Ranger 1967 - 607, 657, 857, 867, Lawn Ranger 1968 - Commando 6, Commando 8, '500' SPECIAL, Lawn Ranger 1969 - WORKHORSE 700 Short frame 8 HP Hydrostatic Transmission Wheel Horses. All used Wheel Horse Belt # 8005 ½” X 72” cloth covered drive belt. 1965 – 875, 1075 1966 - 876 1967 - 877 With the exception of some 8 HP models and Estate Models all Wheel Horses from 1966 on were long frame, we will cover the exceptions first. Estate models, 953, 1054, 1054A , 47” wheel base Wheel Horse Belt # 1592 ½” X 82 cloth covered drive belt GT-14, 48” wheel base Wheel Horse Belt # 8334 5/8” X 83” cloth covered drive belt Mid Frames Some 1972 to 1975 Wheel Horse 8 horse powered models had a wheel base of 43 inches there is a bit of inconsistency in the belts used for the A models in this period so check the chart. Long frame, 45-1/2 inches. Wheel base began wit the 1966 10 HP and 12 HP models. From 1969 on and any Kohler powered long frame manual transmission Wheel Horse used a Wheel Horse Belt # 7473 5/8” X 82” From 1969 on and any long frame Hydrostatic with a Sundstrand transmission (except the Estate models) uses a Wheel Horse belt part # 108501 5/8” X 82” From 1969 on any Kohler (including Twins) powered long frame Hydrostatic with an Eaton 700 or 1100 transmission uses a Wheel Horse belt part # 108501 5/8” X 82” From 1989 on any Onan powered long frame Manual or Hydrostatic transmission uses a Wheel Horse belt part # 114895 5/8” X 83” Tractor drive belts Drive belts should be fabric covered 58 – 59 RJ 1567 4L - 29 60 – 61 SUBURBAN 1569 4L - 29 61 – 67 SHORT FRAME GEAR JAMMER 9691 ½ X 70 953 – 1054 1592 ½ X 82 69 – 70 VERTICAL ENGINE 8133 ½ X74 69 – 70 CHARGER 9 & 10 7478 5/8 - 84 GT-14 8334 5/8 x 82 12 HP KOHKER - SUNDSTRAND 7478 5/8 x 81 12 – 16 HP KOHLER GEAR JAMMER 7473 Changed to 93-9808 in ’96 5/8 x 82 12 – 16 HP KOHLER WITH EATON 108501 5/8 x 82 17 – 18 HP KOHLER GEAR JAMMER 107939 Changed to 93-9809 5/8 x 83 417 – 418 KOHLER WITH EATON 108501 5/8 X 82 416 - 520 ONAN GEAR JAMMER 107939 Changed to 93-9809 5/8 X 83 416 – 520 ONAN EATON 141895 5/8 X 83 Drive belt sizes WHEEL HORSE PART NUMBER BELT SIZE Starter/generator belt Kohler 10hp, 12hp Kohler # 235262 3L-35 Notched raw rubber edges NAPA 25-7345 Kohler 7hp, 8hp Kohler # 231605 3L-32 Notched raw rubber edges NAPA 25-7315 S/G indicator Light bulb #57 Replacement light unit Cole-Hersee PL 20 RC HY-2 or HY-3 1584 3L-510 953 – 1054 Hydraulic pump belt 1591 3L-480 What are the differences between the various Wheel Horse Belt part #s on the same size belts? ? ? I have seen belts sold on the internet using the TORO/Wheel Horse part numbers that won’t work because they are too wide and I have used the Tractor Supply replacement belts with good results. Use your own judgement.

Heading out on the Chesapeake Bay for blue crabs and stripers. 47F and 10mph ENE Brr Pics to follow,,,I hope.

Sally was in the Fox and Hounds at Newbridge last Saturday night, when this really ugly looking guy walked into the bar. She told me later: "The wierdo came over to the bar and pinched my but. Then he had the nerve to demand, 'Give me your number, sexy.'" I replied, "Have you got a pen?" He smiled and said, "Yes." I replied, "Well you better get back to it, before the farmer notices you're missing."

I added the Kohler manual to my post above. This manual has great step by step instructions for disassembly and assembly. When you look through the pug hole on a flat head engine, you are looking at or between the valves, you can not turn the camera enough to see down the bore. Look at the pic below, the plug hole is over the two smaller holes for the valves. Under side of the head.

Do we have any here?

PUNDIT Past Participle of pin it; The Hill Billy pundit to the wall with a thumb tack.

I have not used that exact brand, but I have used that style many times and they work great.. Neway makes one of the better kits, this also comes with a bigger price tag.

the same guy that writes on the rear window of his mini van when pulled by his pickup, "vehical in toe"

Seems like your Governor is a bit crabby about strippers.

Would that not be "The Hillbilly done pundit to the wall with a thumb tack"?? since it was already done...

Don't catch any crabs from that stripper! LOL! The salmon are running up in Pulaski, NY with reports of Chinooks (Kings) & Cohos.

Why is it the first thing that come to mind here is The Squonky?!?!?

Oops, I meant STRIPER. I realize Ed can only deal with one STRIPPER per day.

I have had good success using 90 degree mounted stones, first coarse, then fine, to dress the small imperfections in the valve seat (usually the exhaust.) IF the seat is really bad, it gets replaced. Using the mounted stone method takes proper guided tooling - it is NOT a job for a cordless pistol drill and a "Here, hold my beer". I am fortunate to have a ShopSmith machine with a tilt table. Setup vertically, it has a throat opening of almost 3 feet. I use a proper sized reamer in the drill chuck to locate the valve guide, clamp the block and proceed with material removal. No pictures, sorry. Using either method - cutting & lapping the seat tightens up the valve clearance and that must be addressed too.

Don't know why Ed Dog is so crabby then ...

Time for me to move. My wife won't allow any per day.

The internet connection at my farm was really poor, so I moved the modem to the barn. Now I have stable wifi

Really hard to tell through the spark plug hole, mainly because you can't look into the cylinder. A better way to know is to take the head off. This allows you to inspect and measure the cylinder bore. I have not encountered too many K model Kohlers that were not worth rebuilding yet. Engine not worth rebuilding - 1 - There is a window (hole) in the side of the block where insides exited. 2 - The bore is more than .030 over sized already. 3 - Water intrusion has rusted the insides beyond repair. Get the bore and crank pin measured before ordering any parts so you know what you will need. One source for parts https://www.ebay.com/itm/143366218290 You will most likely pay about the same amount for machining as you do for the parts listed above. The Kohler manual does a great job of walking you through the rebuild process from start to finish. https://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/tp_2379.pdf

B

Today after work I started on figuring out how to retrofit and spruce up the 520H Hydraulic lift to my C-141 Auto. I've got the beginnings of a plan to build a bracket for the valve block. Once i take the seat off, and the rear sheet metal. I'll figure out if I need custom hard lines to the pump or can adapt the existing lines as they look in good condition. It looks close but I'll know for sure once I can see the pump better and run the lines. I'm off the next two days so I'll pick away at it.

Having fun in retirement fiddling with scraps in the garage to create fun / usable stuff... nothing purchased. All repurposed... The skateboard wheel one is for Littles to scoot around on. The wood wheel one is going on a shelf to generate discussion about the pros of a addiction...

Set screw theme. I have one hub on Big Oly that likes to walk so new screws. Have to take one pie weight off to do it. At the same time I changed the oil to Rotella 15/40 and installed the snows. Winter's coming!

Finally getting back to this one. No crank, so I went through all the electrical cleaning connections and coating with dielectric grease. I had replaced the solenoid with a 4 terminal. Learned the unused 4terminal needs to be grounded. PO had removed all safety switches and still no crank. Remembered the voltage regular connection. That was it, the terminals were loose on the meter. So it cranked, but no spark. I had previously cleaned the points an did a static timing. I had voltage to the points, but they just didn’t act right. I finally replaced them and still no spark. I was trying to read points with my meter so I had my wife come out ant turn the key. Bingo blue spark in the spark tester I still had connected. Of course she asked why I’d been working on it all day PS I need some new black plastic pieces that hold the terminals on the key switch and regulator. Does anyone have a part name/number and vendor? @953 nut @Racinbob So now I’m ready to put gas in it tomorrow. I’m really curious how it will run with my previous leakdown test and not great valve seating. I have the valve and seat grinder I bought a while back, but I wanted to see how it would run. It’s been 50 years since I used a valve and seat grinder. Trying to fix a previous marginal seat grinding may not be the best place to start. I have a junk block I’ve been meaning to practice on.

Most of the engines I've run into the seats were in decent shape. And I bought new valves. Any new cutting or grinding there is an engine shop 10 miles from me that will do it for coffee money.

I guess we can just thank God that Squonky is a engine pundit ...

September 24, 1991, "Under the Bridge" was a massive hit for the Red Hot Chili Peppers, released in February/March 1992 as a single from their 1991 album Blood Sugar Sex Magik, becoming a signature song exploring frontman Anthony Kiedis's struggles with loneliness and drug addiction.

No but thought about getting one a few times. Always got by with a good lapping. Achto and I have a buddy that lucked out and got a valve cutter/grinder for short money at auction so if ever needed just take it to him. It's a vintage setup but useable. If I did many motors I would certainly have my own.

I just modified, cut off 1 end, of a regular oil filter wrench so that I could just spin the filter off without having to reposition the wrench. I added the bolts so I could push the filter off the wrench easily.

The early Wheel Horses didn't have any safety switches. Ya either clutched it or made sure it was in neutral.

Yes it is. I find it's always a bit of a gamble with lighting.. every lightsource is classified along lumens instead of watts these days. With incandescant bulbs brand A and brand B would produce very similar light as long as the wattage is the same. With LED and the lumens it's a different story.. Things like focal point, color temperature, wattage and lumens all have to be taken into account. On the plus side, if you've still got old school switches and wiring that work, you can have way more light on the same machine than what was there previously.

I agree witb all of the above. The only thing I'll add is the 2 stage is a beast to move around, over 300 pounds. I have a dedicated spot in my shed so I can drive the tractor and blower in, and drop the blower for the summer. Come winter just manuever the tractor over the blower and reinstall. Of course if you have room for a dedicated snow machine....

Apparently, this type of meme parodying The Oregon Trail game from the 80’s is trending on Facebook and Instagram. I thought it could use a Wheel Horse touch.

That, and I would also be concerned about the (unspecified) import fees from India. What's a Neway kit cost for our engines these days?

Here's a video I've saved that helps me...

The “They” here has always had me curious. Multi-viscosity oil should flow well at any of its rated temps. My personal take is that the “warming” is really about stirring up the contents of the sump--kinda like swirling the last of the hot chocolate in the mug to make sure you get the full flavor!

And you know this because?!?!?

They claim warm oil drains impurities & sludge better ... in engines anyway. @Achto's IV bottle and bare back?

This should be moved to the classified section and to comply with the rules, the price must be listed. One of the mods can move it for you.

Question: Why didn't Noah do much fishing while he was on the ark? Answer: Because he only had two worms!

Oh, I get it...nobody calked around the ladder.

That would sure make installing the front tires easier. I wish they were all that way.