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e Delivered the 314A to a new owner today. The young lady was in dire need of a tractor to do the first mowing.

That's where I start but have been known to spearmint and try different settings just to see if I can make them run/start a little better.

Just use pliers on it. It will come off. Be careful not to use pliers on the front or it will scar it a bit. Sometimes it's easier if you remove the four screws hold the dash panel on. You will get more maneuverability

I find if you go to a bearing dealer you can get a better bearing. I am lucky enough to have two dealers in town I live in. Bearings like Timkin! This company has been in business for many years. Where I used to work, the maintenance crew guys that I knew very well always used Timpkin bearings for repairs.

You need to have the points break open on the " S " mark and not the " T " Otherwise the timing will be late.

You don't need to buy a new generator, taking the top off of the regulator the is a way to adjust it so it puts out more. However, before you do that, I'd suggest cleaning up all your grounds. I.e, the generator mount onto the engine, where the ground wire goes. If that don't work, you can go through the generator fairly easily with some skf 6203 bearings from Amazon and a brush and spring kit, I don't know the p/n right now. I'll upload a video on how to go through them If none of this works, you may need to do as my dad and I did and look up a starter generator repair/rebuild shop local to you. Ours ended up being both a bad regulator and bad armature

More thoughts assuming the pressure and flow is the same on both sides of the piston. 1. the extending stroke generates more force than the retracting stroke 2. the rod is in compression during the extending stroke 3. the rod is more subject to bending when in compression 4. the single stage rod can be nearly as large as the piston as very little force is required to retract the piston 4. the dual stage requires the rod to be much smaller than the piston to generate a working force when retracting.

If you need to hold the front with pliers, wrap it with several layers of duct tape ti prevent damage.

If it seems to be running in the low flow/high pressure circuit only, there may be an external relief adjustment (not the main system pressure relief at the valve). You would see something on the pump body externally. Most of the pumps I have seen are fixed valving for the stage operation. The speed difference in the stages of the pump operation are quite noticeable, and if you say it returned to normal operation after you relieve the system flow, I'm wondering if you have a sticky valve in the pump. Of course, the speed and force of the actions in either direction will be different due to the volumetric differences as others have noted. That is entirely normal. Losing one stage of the pump is not.

sweet dreams

There's a mental image I didn't need before bed!

Thats kind of a given… duh!!

Good advice, thanks. Clean those grounds and fuses. I had to do that exact thing on our old 8N ford's solenoid, when I drug it home, it had a bad ground....a few min with a wire brush and it worked fine. You would think I would have thought of that in this case but, I didn't.

Before you go out on a shopping spree check the fuse holders and fuses. There is a 30 amp fuse between the battery and the ignition switch and the battery acid fumes fro battery recharging will corode the fuse holders over time. To see if the solenoid is good run a small jumper from the small terminal on the solenoid to the battery + post, if it cranks over the solinoid is good. A little trouble shooting can save you some money.

Ah ok, I see it has a starter solenoid. (duh). We piped some gas to the pump (main fuel line is plugged up) put the key to on, bridged the selonoid posts and bingo... runs like a new one. So, I need a solenoid and, maybe a new ignition switch if it doesnt hit the new solenoid. Thanks for that wire diagram.

Yes or if you wanted to do it like the wiring diagram says run the positive wire to the L terminal, far left, on the regulator and the negative wire to the negative on the battery.

There's a nut you tighten to make that latch movement a little stiffer. I was driving along a few years back and didn't notice that lever vibrated rearward. Next thing I knew the tractor was 10 feet in front of me and pulling away!

With the "Ejector Seat" lever on the lower left!!

It’s not exact but very similar, should go little something like this pic of my 1257.

I get ours from Aircraft Spruce & Specialty. They have several types of valves, grommets, and the good quality electric fuel pumps available. Pricing is excellent. Service as well.

Rage: Yeah, thanks for the info. My cardiologist told me to keep exercising ( obviously not to the point of exertion ). So I'm trying to keep moving. The guy doing my valve pioneered this procedure, and he did over 200 of those aortic valve replacements last year.

FWIW — I had my mitral and aortic valves replaced 28 years ago. My surgery was NOT “minimally invasive”; 6-8 inch opening in my chest which was wired back together (makes for really impressive chest x-rays). I would not be here now without that surgery; in my case my left ventricle was to the point of losing pumping efficiency due to enlargement (leaking mitral valve). I was only 46 at the time and feeling fine but on restricted activity; took 2-3 months of recovery which didn’t feel good; several trips back to the hospital for some know postoperative issues (chest congestion). My layman’s understanding was that the open thoracic surgery was a major factor in my extended recovery. Your minimally invasive procedure should lessen those. Get the valve replaced!! I went from restricted activity pre-surgery to being told by my heart doctor to get off my butt and do whatever I wanted (back to playing basketball for me).

Working on keeping in shape for the surgery.

Thanks, bud. Much appreciated. I'm 73