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I must say I don't even have any play in my steering wheel. I'm very happy with this. But just like the 400 series I had. I'm back on the hook for wheel horses. My wife is like hmm savings account hasn't gotten any bigger. And I'm over here thinking welp it's not any smaller. We doing good baby

May 11, 1947, the B.F. Goodrich Company of Akron, Ohio, announces it has developed a tubeless tire, a technological innovation that would make automobiles safer and more efficient. . While Goodrich awaited approval from the U.S. Patent Office, the tubeless tires underwent high-speed road testing, were put in service on a fleet of taxis and were used by Ohio state police cars and a number of privately owned passenger cars.

And shortly thereafter, did the Tire Tube Manufacturers go crying to the Feds for subsidies?? With the mass implementation of turbochargers (and prior use of Catalytic Converters) in domestic vehicles back in the late 1980's, the OEM's saw thw need to change the vehicle exhaust components from mild steel to stainless due to the increased heat. That did not sit well with the three big chains of Muffler Shops, as an exhaust system could now outlast the vehicle. So they petitioned the Gov. for a handout to stay in business. Uncle Sam told them to go punt. Basically it was "So, your Business is centered on under the vehicle parts replacement, right?? Learn how to do brakes & struts instead..."

Picked up some 1054 parts on my way to Indiana and what looks to be complete front mower mount at the Nappanee show this past weekend. 42" deck is pretty rough, but the one behind it is good!

And here we go putting tubes back in. Tube should be mandatory for all low pressure applications. Like when you lose air in a tire at a show and it rolls off the bead...

It's alive!! 20260510_105802.mp4

These were really cheap ones too. Two for like $80. I was plowing a furrow for planting more asparagus roots for this one. Second pic is a Wild Game camera at the end of the field.

Plowing snow! My neighbor and I were both plowing our drives. Me on a C-120 Auto and him on a B-100 8 Speed. I out-plowed him 2 to 1. Consequently he promptly added a Charger 12 Automatic to his collection and loves it for plowing snow. His 8-Speed is definitely better for tilling the gardens.

And properly dispose of everything coming out of the transaxle!

I'd agree except everything around me is like a mt. Yards are all hills and crazy slopes. Manual works great for that for me anyways.

My 2005 Classic has it under the seat. That spot is filled by the filter on a hydro. The 314-H I no longer have. I was a bit hesitant because of the long fuel line run on my 76 Reborn B-80 but it works great. The Dino C-121

I prefer manuals...

You mean like the fact that the Central Pacific Rail Road Company made their rout longer than necessary because 20 square miles of land were given to the railroad for every mile of track they put down and the fact that their route meandered from one natural water source to the next so the free land would be more valuable.

Almost done just got to finish the wiring and put new diesel oil in it and finish putting back together

The pinions and other differential internals only get worked when the rear wheels turn at different speeds--do some circles on your “drive around”!

Fixed it for ya...

You could go either way on that one. If it was me I probably would do another diesel flush.

Part of my job is picking up credit after the work is done. We take pictures of pretty much everything that we do. I showed up here. Park across the street. Nothing unusual. Started filling out the paperwork and I looked over to the pallets that I was about to go fetch and I see this.... Guard cat??!?

That's just part of the ownership....

For mowing and plowing snow, automatic is the way to go, especially if you have a lot of forward and backward movement.

Just say " Waka Flocka!

That might be the kicker. Mount the rock shaft and see if you can weasel it in ahead of it.

Most any place where the suction of the pump will be lower than the bottom of the tank and the fuel hose will be protected from mechanical damage is good. The whole idea is to provide a net positive suction head pressure so the pump won't have to work as hard. They are great pumpers but lousy suckers.

You are over thinking this situation. The condenser is on the negative side of the coil and has nothing to do with power to the fuel pump. You are just using the positive side wire at the coil as a convenient source of power that will be turned on and off with the keyswitch.

Probably best fix for this problem is running a common ground from each load point back to the battery (power source). A little more work and cost but eliminates grounding problems.

That style solenoid was mainly used to keep amp draw on the activating control to a minimum for continuous duty applications like snow plows and electric actuators.

That is correct KP. The starter button grounds out the solenoid operating it. The the other end of the solenoid coil is internally connected to 12v positive large post. You do have to have the 12v from the battery on the correct large post. I forget if they are labeled or not. If not one way to tell is read through the small post to one of the large posts. You should see the resistance of the coil on one of the large posts. That's the large post that gets connected to the battery. Should be open on the other large post. I have no idea why went this route. It's been said this same solenoid was used on some truck sno plow set ups.

If it has the correct engine for '60 it would be a K91. Only real difference between a K90 and a K91 is the governor setting. 3600 RPMs for a K90 - 4000Rpms for a K91.

Pan stand was out for paint. This is the only place on a 520 for it.

It is per task the manual is probably more versatile because it can do everything. But the hydro has its place it does well for mowing, putting around, and pulling trailers for yard work. It probably does well at snowblowing as well, I haven't tried it though. For ground engagement attachments the king is the 8 speed manuals.

I believe the 73-77 C series tractors were the pinicle of engineering and simplicity in the Wheelhorse lineup for a lot of the reasons stated above. They have the updated front mount mule drive which was much more simple and easier to use. The PTO clutch with the throw lever is a really good system as well. Wiring was simple unlike a lot of the later models. And didn't have the starter generator of the earlier models not that there is necessarily anything wrong with them. The transmissions are just as strong as the later models, with a few exceptions in the hydros. They are probably the easiest Wheelhorse's to work on. The hard parts are the hubs, hitch pin and steering wheel, and those are problems with almost all the wheelhorse models/years.

Jim has his mounted under the seat. @WHX?? you have any pics to share?

I substituted the NLA Onan pump for this Kawasaki pump. Mounting bracket is from a Kawasaki. If you go the electric pump route, connect the positive wire to the positive terminal on the coil. If the safeties are activated the pump will shut down along with the engine.

Foe grass cutting by the hour 2nd is too slow 3rd to fast....

Gear oil change today.

She doesn't get out in the sun much.

The C-121,141, and 161 Automatic was only available in 1978 and 79. The C-141 Auto was just shy of 2,600.00 or roughly 13,168.00 with inflation in 2026 without attachments when it was new. It’s top speed is an eye watering 6 miles an hour.

The C-**0 tractors are hands down, my preferred lineup. I also have C-141, which is a good worker, but I hate the tower design because it's a pain in the butt to access the rock shaft for changing out attachments.

HOLY CRAP Mr. U Haul!!!!! I didn't think ya had the stones! He'd show up at plow days with a rented U haul ... claimed it was sensible... No place to store a trailer. Glad to see you got your big girl panties on guy!

Picked up a new (to me) WH hauler today! They sure are proud that it is made in MI!

I do not see the tractor raised so that the wheels can spin freely. Just dropping the fluid and refilling is inadequate to alleviate an issue with moisture in the Unidrive. That leaves too much comtaminated fluid clinging to the innards. A diesel flush is best - but - the Unidrive must be cycled thru all the gears - and hi & low ranges to get the sufficient "waterfall wash". Either by driving it or jacking it up in place. If you want to be amazed with the "waterfall" effect, pull the shifter out while doing the flush & look in.....The differential & gears spinning make for quite the splash.

Wiring is correct. For under seat gas tanks I always mount the pump low and near the tank.. If yo are putting the pump on a WH with gas tank under the hood mount where ever you can. Gravity will fill the pump most the time.

I have several senior attachments like snow plows and rear ground engagement plows I would be willing to drag down. Pics upon request. Prices would probably be around $400 each

Dust caps! The old 701 will finally get the most attention (finally) for a few days. Gotta get it down from the workstand so the Blackhood can go on! Sheetmetal and paint. NOT my strongsuits!

It's here. Definitely looks a little better in the photos. It's definitely restorable!

Update: I have a chance to bring it home. However, I'll need to rehome it quickly as I don't have room for it and my free time is limited these days. I'll post pictures once it's home.

@WHX?? @JCM Good idea framing the receipt. I laminated the receipt for my Work Horse that I bought brand new so I can hang it when I show the tractor.