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A buddy of mine has 4 of them old 8N-9N types, can you imagine that! One man owning FOUR tractors. What a weirdo he is

We made it home Saturday night around 10 something. Our trailer was definitely way more full on the way home than on the way there thanks to @Pullstart, @PWL216, @Achto, @WHX??, @Mike'sHorseBarn, @wallfish, @fast88pu

Found some vintage tractor lights I liked and got them installed on the C-160 today. Pretty close to the ones I put on the C-120. Will probably end up getting an LED upgrade before winter. Also mounted a flag on the C-120. My neighbor volunteered me to join a 4th of July parade with him. I think we may have recruited a few more now. IMG_5367.MOV

I bought a 1975 Pug 4x4 made by Bruce Mfg in Bruce, Wi a couple of years ago. It is articulated and twists in the middle. I have been working on it a little at a time.

I noticed that and thought he was taking a page out of the @Pullstart playbook!

@WHX??, @Pullstart Check this out. Great way to utilize space in an enclosed. Genius move @702854boy.

33 and 13 Joe Nelson Cedar Mn (aka BOB)

June 29, 1939 Ford introduces the revolutionary Ford-Ferguson 9N tractor incorporating Harry Ferguson's three-point hitch system.

Hung the 36” gear drive under the 69 Raider 12 today just to get it out if the middle of the floor. The points conversion went well. This motor hasn’t been ran in decades. Before putting gas in it, I cleaned the carb which only had a little crud in the bowl, and i adjusted the valves. Should have had some breather gaskets on hand because they are hard as a brick and leaking a little, so that’s on the to do list. Need to do some wiring and both cables and change the fluid in the trans. Ordered the 6908 unicorn pulley and required idler standoff support, so the gear drive deck will work with the PT-6 pto. It shouldn’t be long until my 401 gets a well deserved break from its duties. The high back boat seat is very supportive for my lower back, but if i keep whacking my shin every time i get on it, it may have to go.

Lathrop, Missouri just finished their "2026 Lathrop Antique Tractor Show" (video can be found on Youtube.) Lathrop, in northwest, Missouri, was my home town and I was one of the founding members of the club, although it wasn't nothing like it has grown into. I believe the video is about an hour long but it's much more than tractors. They have brought in a lot of different equipment and re-created a small town. I had offered my train layout to the club, (It's "L" shaped 11 feet by 22 feet) and they are interested in it but it would be had HUGE chore to move it from my basement here in southwest MO to Lathrop. Disassembly would be required and there is a bunch of wiring involved. I'm pretty sure I saw a RJ running near the end. I should attend the show some time. I recognized a small number of the folks in the video but when I return to Lathrop and my brother and I go to the restaurant for breakfast, those people, that I should recognize, are getting OLD!

This was my only show pickup. A set of cool looking rear wheel weights. I determined they were off a Jacobson.

I’m unloaded now, shy of checking out of Hotel Norman. In honor of @elcamino/wheelhorse calling me the flip flop kid, I did it with the flippy flops on! I scored a sweet front deck carrier frame from @c-series don, mine is pretty twisted up and this will be put to use. I also got some cool old tires for a 953 from @stevebo @pfrederi dropped off a couple engines to my tent and wouldn’t take a dime for them. As always Paul, you amaze me! Somebody cruised by my tent and tossed me this new key chain. I forget who, it was quick! @8ntruck Bill I grabbed that muffler from Uncle Jim for ya!

Kevin would have had that on the roof!

Here's what Microsoft Co-Pilot had to say on the matter. Running a Kohler K301 in 100°F Indiana heat is absolutely doable — but you’re right to think ahead. These engines are tough, but they’re air‑cooled, and extreme ambient temps shrink your margin for error. Here’s a clear, practical, Wheel‑Horse‑owner‑level guide to keep your K301 happy during a parade crawl. Quick Takeaway A clean cooling system, proper mixture, and avoiding extended low‑RPM lugging are the three biggest factors. At 100°F, the K301 will run hot — but with prep and smart operation, overheating is unlikely. What Matters Most in 100°F Heat 1. Airflow is everything Air‑cooled engines depend entirely on volume of air across the fins. Clean cylinder head fins, block fins, and blower housing Make sure the screen on the flywheel shroud is clear Verify the tinwork is complete and sealed — missing tins = hot engine Check the flywheel fan for packed debris Even a thin layer of chaff raises head temps dramatically. 2. Don’t idle through the parade This is the big one. Airflow at idle is minimal. Heat output at idle is still significant. Best parade RPM: 2,200–2,800 RPM (fast idle / light throttle) This gives: Strong airflow Good oil splash Cooler head temps No lugging Avoid: Long periods below 1,800 RPM Lugging the engine at low RPM while moving slowly 3. Mixture matters in extreme heat Hot air = less dense = leaner mixture. A slightly lean K301 will run very hot at 100°F. Check: Main jet adjustment (¼ turn richer than winter setting is common) Idle mixture (should not be lean‑stumbling) A K301 that “sounds crisp” but is actually lean will cook itself in parade conditions. 4. Oil choice helps For 100°F parade duty: Straight SAE 30 (best for hot weather) or 15W‑40 diesel oil (excellent film strength) Avoid: 10W‑30 in extreme heat — it shears down and thins out. 5. Fuel system considerations High heat + slow parade speeds = vapor lock risk. Helpful steps: Ensure fuel line is not touching the block Use a fresh fuel filter Keep the tank at least half full If your tractor has the metal line near the head, consider a temporary heat shield 6. Fan shroud and head gasket check A small head gasket leak or missing shroud screw can raise temps 20–40°F. Quick inspection: No oil mist around head No carbon tracks Shroud tight and complete 7. Take breaks if needed If the parade stops for several minutes: Shift to neutral Bring RPM up to ~2,500 Let airflow cool the head If it’s a long stop, shut down for 2–3 minutes Should you opt out? Based on what’s typical for a healthy K301: No — you can run it safely. These engines were designed for mowing in July heat at full load. A parade is actually less load, just less airflow. As long as the cooling system is clean and you avoid low‑RPM lugging, you’re fine. 📌 Extra tips specifically for parade duty Bring a small leaf blower — if you stop for a long time, blow out the engine tins Keep a thermometer gun handy; head temps under 375°F are perfectly normal If you have a side‑panel tractor, remove the side panels for the parade Avoid running with the hood open — it disrupts designed airflow patterns

It was nice actually talking to people this year and getting some names for faces

Two Kevins, doing Kevin things…

Years ago I did several parades over 3 (?) years. One year was 3 in one day! It was interesting, a fair amount of fun, very time consuming. My small town has one too. We've considered going in it with tractors. Maybe some day...

The tie rod ends have 173r or 173l on them. Most common on 1940-1962 Chevrolets like the Corvette and Belair. The rod go from the pitman arm to an arm under the seat (that swivels at the top) then the second arm goes to the back. Between the tie rods and tightening the gear, I might be able to get to 25 mph.

This Pug is supposed to be able to reach 25 mph but only reaches 8 mph, I will cover that later, it was a hand full at 8 mph. I pulled the front fiberglass off. A nice bit of reengineering. The steering gear no longer has bearings on the input shaft (which was cut and rewelding crooked) . There is a brass bushing put in the top and a chunk of steel for the lower bearing. The steering wheel and shaft are too low to get a leg under making to difficult to get in and out of. I am thinking the pitman arm got changed because it is 18 ft between inside tire tracks when driven in circles. I read somewhere (of course I can not find it now) that the radius is supposed to be 10 ft.

Of course that led to finding leaking cylinders. LH-FD18292 for the left side and a FD18293 for the right. These fit 1960-70s CJ, 1957-73 Dodge trucks some AMC cars and others. Some where for the front, others for the rear.Some rears take a different brake line size and need an adapter to work with lines that are in the Pug. I had to get my adaptor at Autozone as they had the longest one to reach the bottom. I left the parking brake parts out as there is a drive shaft brake.

There a rumors of part list some where on the internet, but I could not find any. Since it sorta ran but did not stop. It has drum brakes in the front axel only. I started with the master cylinder. It would compress but not release. So I took the Wagner number and traced it back to 1948-57 hudson, Packards, 1079-84 Hyster and more. Off to eBay to get a reasonably priced one. After bleeding the system, I took the drums off to free up the adjusters. The shoes were worn down and the Wagner numbers led to s154 from 1949-72 Fords, Mercury's, Dodges, Plymouths.

Sorry Karl I had it, but I snagged the WHCC 250 banner.

No, I"m WAY to short to be able to stand in the back row! LOL

I Thank You for the gift and it will always be treasured by me as I always treasure seeing you at the Wheel Horse Show! Wild Bill

I'm big on eye protection. I'd wouldn't be able to run trains anymore if I lost an eye. I had a coworker who had a deer head fall off the wall and puncture his eye. There's actually a video on YouTube about it.

So perfect you best be careful ... they lookin pretty happy right here. I think Radferd was puttin down roots...

No Coach that's Joe Bob Nelson @joebob I wanna say he's from around the twin cities MN??? He's also 13 Saturday. Ya know what tenth look I don't see 'Fish in ther??? # 2 Saturday

The big one for me was this new project, purchased from @Ed Kennell: It fires right up, and it will about do a wheelie taking off, but it slows down pretty soon, and it seemed like the deck was causing the engine to bog, despite turning freely by hand. Also, it doesn't seem to have anything that even remotely resembles brakes. It did cut nice, for all the more cutting I got it to do. I got a hydro trans from @pfrederi, who wouldn't take anything for it, just like the the engines that @Pullstartgot. I think I'm going to see about putting that trans in the 1076.

It wasn’t a sad Saturday for me, not gonna lie, it would have been better to see more of you, but I am so happy to have been able to see some old friends and finally be able to put a face to a name for others. @Wild Bill in VA Please pass our gratitude to the Collectors Club for another awesome show. This show is like no other, and while I can’t make every year, when I can it never disappoints. This year was extra special for America’s 250th anniversary and RedSquare’s 20th, and there is no place I would have rather been than the Big Show!

Same name here too. I used some fake names when I was young. Then Mrs. K saved me and I don't need to hide any longer.

Missed ya Joe. Hope all is well.

Yeah, keep the rpm’s at 3/4 to have plenty of airflow to maintain cooling.

Once again the hard working members of the Wheel Horse Collectors Club did an outstanding job by providing us with a great gathering place and entertainment (Wild Bill).

I will add more later.

I'm No. 24 in the Friday picture. Zigzag Kevin Ziegler, Dillsburg PA

@ronwh Ron Whanger Mexico, Missouri #11 Friday.

BTW thank you Richard for doing this along with loaning your cat prod to others.

Getting the bearings out of the holders is unpleasant and, though I’ve looked, I’ve never seen those parts separately at the show. I’m running the best pair from three donor decks.

The inboard seals have fallen out of the cross shaft bearings and the guts appear to have been exposed for some time. They aren't super rotten, but they are patinaed to match the rest of the tractor.

The cross-shaft bearings are probably ok, but the spindle bearings are probably worn. Part # 1508 spindle bearing (4) ==> Koyo B-1212 needle bearings. You’ll also need new seals 1303 oil seal (2) ==> Timken 312518. Be sure to help your apprentice out during spindle disassembly because the order of components is critical and, if it was a later model with thrust bearings, they’ll almost certainly look like greasy washers! (From the photo, there was a serious dearth of grease on the gears--they should be buried in grease!) Lastly, be prepared to put some shims behind one of the cross-shaft bevel gears (between the gear and the step in the shaft) upon reassembly to take out gear lash. It took me three times to get this right and in the end the shims left about .05” of lash to account for heat expansion. Good luck to you both! PM me if you come up with other questions.

You sir, are big part of what makes the show so special!!! Thank you

Which you need to paint pink for # 15 ! It was still bloody mary hour Plunge.

@Handy Don 42 & 7 from Cortlandt, NY along the beautiful Hudson River!

What did I score at the Big Show? A great time seeing old friends and enjoying myself.

I was number 18 in the Saturday picture ..... Friday's picture you could only see my right elbow. Ha Ha . It was no problem announcing the for the picture.

Made a trailer hitch for my 520H. I did get it painted but will have to wait on paint to dry b4 getting it mounted to tractor . I made this out of stuff I had laying around but if I would have had to buy all my metal new I would just order one from wheelhorsepartsandmore, I don’t believe you could build one much cheaper if you had to purchase the metal.

I got some cool sunset photos of my tractor and our 1983 Winnebago Brave powered by a Chevy 454

Whatcha saying? I dont look good on a '71 Briggs Special??