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I'm the 2nd owner. Original fellow bought it in his 60's and sold it when he could no longer drive. I went to local dealer and they printed out their repair and maintenance history of it. I've had to replace several of the small sensors and the like. Engine and transmission are original and other than the seals we replaced last winter haven't been messed with. It's a rust free truck and I do my best to keep it that way. I've owned it ten or twelve years.

...but, Took a little road trip today. Left south Missouri to go to the farm in north Missouri to transport a piece of equipment back home. 73 year old me in a 34 year old GMC K2500 with 237,000 miles on it pulling a tandem axle trailer. 368 miles and some six hours of driving. While at the farm I got to ride around and see the goings on. If you all remember, there's a power line crossing the farm from a gas turbine generator being built a couple of farms behind ours. 350 ci (5.7) TBI engine oil pressure held a 35 psi, the engine coolant ran ~195 degrees and the 4l80 automatic transmission was between 180 to 195 degrees. Pretty good considering it was sunny and 95 degrees with heat index of 105. Air conditioner blowing cold and Boots Randolph and Flatt and Scruggs bluegrass playing on the original factory cassette payer. Life can't get much better! The picture below is some of the power line poles being installed. Cement foundations are about 6 feet in diameter and 33 feet deep. My brother said that on the bolts poured into the cement had to be withing 2 degrees of being in alignment. The pullies that they feed the 2" transmission wire through are a good 3 feet in diameter. Observations: 1)smallish SUV's pulling camping trailers 2)Stopped for gas ($3.56 per gallon) and watched a family in two vehicles park at the pumps (in the shade of course). They got out of their cars and head into the convenience store before getting fuel. It's a good thing I was leaving because it was going to be the only available pump.

Today, I got the 42” RD mowing deck finished up and back on. I also tested it. It’s much quieter and goes great.

My neighbor buddy moved down to north Alabama a few years ago. He’s back in town and posted on FB that they were thinning some of their flower garden and stop in to say hi. 5 hours later, we finished up our quick visit for this time. It was great to see Greg and his abundantly giving family! I hope I made his mother and father proud, planting their prized flowers the way they showed me, and giving them hair cuts to keep the energy into growing roots this year! Oh, and there were some sweet rides there, they are a hot rodding family and their friends are too!

As I’ve always got so much time free and so many projects, the ideas as usual keep going round in my head. I’ve plans for quite a few designs and here is the next one that’s in design…. The little 400 is waiting for a hood and a paint job, in the meantime it might be getting an upgrade. hot on the heels of Ewan’s 704, I’ve a simpler idea to add 4 wheel drive to yet another Wheel Horse 😂 out comes the parts bucket, and the scrap pile is set to with an angle grinder, a welder and lathe! first stop a peerless transaxle diff with a sprocket added Then making a bearing carrier Shiny axle case Hub bearing and the start of the steering knuckle A finished swivel and UJ carrier, need to crack on with the other side!

Yep ... pool party with lots of and we'll fill it. Throw some steaks on we'll even fill it with baby ruths ...

Well I went ahead and put a Farmall cub seat on my 10-8. Old seat was trashed and rotted so I had this. And I can put an aftermarket cover on it at some point.

This was the annual show in Rosebud, Missouri. This year it was held Friday, July 17, Saturday July 18, and today. I went yesterday. It was hot, mid 90s with a heat index hovering around 105-110. I only took a few pictures, but there were quite a few tractors there. I loved that International B160 truck.

July 21, 1989, Spike Lee's iconic film Do the Right Thing premiered in the USA with a wide theatrical release sparking nationwide conversations about race and culture that continue today.

Happy Birthday @CRF857, we are glad you were born.

I think my check liver light would come on! I realize that right now I am in a unique situation, and can’t let the water get too low. I also travel on occasion and can’t let it go a few days.

My BIL has a fail safe system. Works every time. No electricity involved. Hose in pool. Turn on. Drink adult beverage of your choice. Turn off. Sometimes automatic stuff is way more desirable in a theoretical sense than reality...

I looked at the manual for this thing. The sensor reads just like I said. Same technology is used for boiler water level sensing. Electronics read water touching the probes through conductivity. The electric to the probes is 24 v DC at 1 amp.

I have bought manifolds from Ebay and modified them to use a canister muffler. They can be found pretty cheap ($30 or so). Takes a little welding to make it but they work well.

I’ll agree that in this case water and electricity shouldn’t be mixed. You can “steer” the logic of your switched circuit using either normal open (NO) or normally closed (NC) relays. Valves too are available either NC or NO, so you have options there. (Edit: terminology might also use the words Direct Acting and Reverse Acting.) in the case of a valve, you may also see it listed as a Fail Close or Fail Open, meaning when the control signal goes away it will either close (fail closed) or open (fail open). Usually valve direction is chosen to give you a failsafe condition. For instance, if you lose control power you probably want the valve to reliably close and stay that way lest you overflow the pool and flood the basement. So you’d work out the logic that the valve closes if the power goes out, somebody pulls the plug, etc. The manufacturer of the automatic fill device probably has the logic planned out using whatever combination of switching (the one in the water), relay (if used), and valve actuator they’ve determined to be the best failsafe combination. They also might have selected the action of the switch to be in the direction it is to avoid false triggers due to splashes or waves from wind or swimmers. I also suspect there is some timing action going on with their control. They may require the switch to be open for X minutes before triggering the valve to open. Likewise, and to avoid rapid cycling, they may have a minimum time interval that triggers the valve to open and let water in also to avoid short cycling. These are timer relay functions. If you piece together a diy system you’ll have to work out the logic that seems the most logical and failsafe to you. A mechanical toilet valve sort of thing takes away the risk of electrical malfunction. If you do chose the electric route there is a range of marine/boating products that can be used to trigger an event. For instance a solid state automatic bilge pump switch can get you there, although the action (NO) is probably the reverse of what you’d normall be looking for. as for mixing electricity and a swimming pool, you’re on your own there especially if you source the power (or tie it in any way) to your house AC power. There are ways to achieve safe isolation, but it’s not intuitive and I would venture is not in the playbook of a typical electrician. Keep in mind that even if you were to, for instance, power your system from a battery charger or AC to DC power supply and that even if you have 12V between your DC leads there is often nothing anchoring either lead (+ or -) to a safe reference/ground. You may end up with that 12V supply floating at some dangerous potential relative to the water and the people in it. I’d probably just buy the off the shelf solution. good luck! Steve

A lot of time, thought, and effort must have gone into that meticulously crafted installation, and boy, does it ever show!

After me and a buddy, probably ten or eleven years old, saw the movie, we were so impressed, we painted (I don't know how or what we used) our own logos on white tee shirts like a gang member. We were pretty tough little guys riding our bikes on gravel roads (because we lived out in the country.) This posting brought back memories.

Somehow, pool & toilet do not play well in the same sentence.....

I've been hanging my grease gun in a spot that's low on the wall and keep an old rag under it. Best compromise I guess. I’m having a good chuckle here at the inherent contradiction of wanting grease to penetrate once applied to a bearing or joint but NOT to seep out of the grease gun! Same applies to trying to constrain penetrant decanted into tiny bottles with needle nozzles or with threaded caps 😁

Some things to keep in mind... The 520’s hydro system really heats up the oil--that fan under the seat is not decoration. The specified level leaves room for the heat-driven expansion. The hollow upper stem/handle of the dipstick is the vent for the hydraulic system that allows air to leave/enter due to the expansion and contraction. If it is kinked or clogged, the dipstick might get. “popped” loose. ADDED: There is also a difference in the lift system’s contained oil depending on whether the cylinder rod is extended (more) or retracted (less)

love that impala!!! i'm with ebinmaine, what's up with that intake? the sad thing about vehicles today is everything looks the same to me. just plastic jelly beans going down the road. if you lined up 10 suv's, same color, no badges, could you tell the brand?

You can go to our members map and locate members in your area and send them a personal message.

I’ve got a stock pile of more top soil and wood chips. I’d like to add another inch or two of soil, then chips. For now, I have them a good soaking drink. The little dirt rings for the roots are the best, per the parents.

As you said, it brim full, but it probable has some air in it. Start it and run it around until it's warmed up, operate the hydraulic lift cylinder multiple times. Let it cool, then check and adjust the oil level to read correctly on the dipstick.

What does the friction disk (the plate the thing you posted pushes against) look like? Burned belts usual mean drag in teh deck or the mule drive

3 1/2 to 4 sounds about right. The system when complete empty with take closer to 5. The hydro pump, deck lift system remains filled when you drain. no need to lift front end, that is on manual transmissions. Fill and recheck the next day, as per the dip stick.

Looks good, the only time that bearing spins is when the belt is disengaged.

604/704. What's not original are the engine, rear tires, throttle and choke controls and the seat

Thinking it is a 604 ,pull start Tecumseh 6hp...1964. Deck looks like it could be a 32"...maybe a 36". Tractor looks to be complete. No belt guard. Should clean up nice...put a Honda engine on it.

Yes it's a 310-8. Nice catch by the awesome cognoscenti of this group. Makes me even sadder to have to part with it, been happy to be a part of this world of sophisticated owners.

There's your answer... @WHX?? as your pool boy... all summer... in a speedo... oh... no...

Actually it’s a cool story. Pics of the truck?

JUNK MAIL!

As opposed to these I suppose

A small video. PXL_20260718_160658438_TS.mp4

I did a rough measure on my 520-H the center line of crank shaft is 7 1/4" above the frame. The Vanguard is 5 1/4" using the existing 1/4" mounting plate you need to raise it 1 3/4" .to run the same belts. The crank shaft center should line up with the back side of the PTO loop hole on the mounting plate. You need to check the measurements I did it with the PTO in place.. Here is the mounting plate used on my 312-8.

My go-to for these is a tiny dab of hot glue applied to the tip of the arm.

I'll take that challenge!!

I agree that the swivel fitting looks to protrude too far from the body of the cylinder--likely not an original. (I added a D rear cylinder for a separate circuit on a 500 series--quite strong, they are!)

Have a Great Day

Happy Birthday 🎂 🥳 🎉

@cafoose regularly suggest rislone zinc oil additive ? repetitive ENGINE VARNISH RELATED ISSUES , like piston ring hang up valve stem glue debris hang up, that varnish builds up and cools down like like a coral reef , to anything handy . also like a hi detergent 10-30 flat tappet oil , like valvoline , V R 1 , operational running ease is very apparent . don,t have any onans , but stay in touch with my tractors all the time . you were asking for suggestions , this is no instant miracle , but a thorough , engine oil drain / flush , and refill , just let it operate in a comfortable zone , BTW also use , STA BIL in all my fuels , no fuel hose break downs . if I had an onan , while still at pfizer , you can bet , that carb manifold would have been all s/s welded tubing , eliminating that repetitive issue . PTO inner needle bearing ? clean / flush it out , lucas , GREEN CHASSIS GREASE, XTRA HD , 550 FLASH POINT . very lightly , polyurea rated , insures easier spin up, also replace the outer sealed bearing , napa . related gold mine enhancement areas . nothing sarcastic , LOVE REPEDITIVE PROBLEMS , eliminate them , pete

Been some years since this has been built . I want to say 13-14 years ago @VinsRJ started this build . Every-time I walk past it in my garage it always amazes me the details on this machine .

That's definitely not enough. Static reading should be 12.45 or higher. Running reading should be more in the range of 13.5 to low 14s.

The hydro is essential the same piston to piston unit used in early C series. Steering gear is a Ross unit that JD and some others used so you can find parts for it. However bell crank tie rods etc are unique. The splined coupler between engine and pump is very difficult to find if it fails. The motion control linkage is a rube goldberg nightmare if it gets out of whack. I like my D and it works well as base for an FEL however D series are a real PITA to work on. I swear they had a guy hold the hydro pump and then built the tractor around it. You really need to test the hydro. i had to redo mine after I bought it. That was a long time ago and I was younger and more flexible. In my book that is top dollar for a D160 unless it has the optional 3pt and rear PTO

D 160-200 attachments are unique to that series. Decks, Blowers and plows from C 300/400 series will not fit There are two versions of D160 some came with Kohler K341 other with a twin onan.