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Earlier this year I had to plant 3500 bare root pachysandra plants. I used a modified auger with long extension so as to keep my back straight . Proved quite effective even though wife was shaking her head watching me. Usually that means she thinks I lost my mind. Better my mind than my back I say.

Mine was a three hole to begin with too. I drilled the two extra holes. It works great and as ri702bill said, I plow in the mid position a lot.

Great job. I will do that to mine some day. Similar to what I did for my deck rollers

The Marine Corps Birthday is observed on November 10. It was created on November 10, 1921 by the U.S. Government to show appreciation for the United States Marines. Having taken part in nearly every U.S. conflict, the Marine Corps has defended our country since America’s inception. The Corps, with over 186,000 active duty members and 38,500 reserves as of 2017, continues its proud tradition as protectors of the U.S. and its people. On November 10, 1775, just eight months shy of the Declaration of Independence, a new corps was formed following the introduction of the Continental Marine Act. At the time, an official plan was developed by the Continental Congress to oversee a mission intercepting ammunition cargo from Britain, using Marines. As suggested by the title, the group was known as the Continental Marines. While this group held several different duties, their core purpose was to provide additional security and support for the recently formed Continental Navy. First led by Commandant Samuel Nicholas, this branch of the burgeoning U.S. armed forces would culminate at just over 2,100 servicemen. In contrast, the number of active troops in the Continental Army at one time would reach a peak of approximately 80,000. This, along with a resolution made in November to create a stand-in official Marine Corps force, was essential to the formation and modernization of the now U.S Marine Corps. The reason for this resolution – the planning of an attack on Nova Scotia to annex it, never took place. However, the Marines remained. After participating in a host of actions and battles throughout the Revolutionary War, the Continental Marines would be disbanded upon the end of the conflict. Eventually, due to the overall neglect of the whole Naval Service and lack of necessary and proper legislation, the department temporarily altogether went out of existence and ceased to exist. This remained so until 1794 when the first legislation was issued by the Congress, addressing the requirement for Marine and Navy Corps since the Revolutionary War. In the late 1700s, the need for naval warfare to exude the military presence of the United States was looked at from another angle; to deal with piracy. The Marines were still running under the Navy at this time, with the latter itself operating under the Secretary of War. In 1798, the legislation to separate the U.S Navy to make its own department was passed; with further legislation to form the U.S Marines as a separate branch of service later in the same year. The Marine Corps would be established on July 11, 1798, and throughout the 19th century (and a portion of the next), this would be the date upon which marines would celebrate the founding of the Corps as an official entity. The birthday was officially recognized in 1921. Major Edwin North McClellan of the Marine Corps History Division submitted a proposition to the ranking commandant which advocated for the anniversary to instead be designated on November 10. A series of standardizations as to how celebrations of the Marine Corps Birthday would be executed would follow in the 1950s. Since then, Marines have been encouraged to treat the anniversary with greater importance.

Not exactly to my wheel horse but for it to do things to it. Made a set of back savers for the horses. Gets them up a bit higher so im not bent over working on them all the time. Made them out of just scrap wood had laying around I needed to use. ramps can be removed and tucked out of the way and when I get width where I need it for what im driving up on it I use 2 2x4 to lock them from sliding apart.

I might have a little bit of "machine envy" here.

Put the plow on 654. Also did some preventative maint. Oil change, greased all fittings, new wear bar on plow blade. Guess I'm done mowing for the season....

first year on my c145 had it on my 75' c120 last 2 years hydro work much better than gear drive tractor least i have hydro lift

Bought this tractor 38 years ago for mowing and snow removal mainly. At that time it came with a belly mount 3 blade mower and front plow blade. Over the years added a single moldboard and harrow that was used for a 25' x 75' garden deep with beautiful farm loam. After moving North it sat for sometime before I started to do a clean up and repaint. In October I was able to have help in splitting the A apart and replace clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing and original carb stripped rebuilt and clear coated. While waiting for parts to come in I cleaned out the bellhousing and tunnel full of mouse mess and sanded up anything that needed it. Up and running now and did it ever feel good to be sitting up high listening to that 4 cylinder purr at idle, almost a nice lope to it. Change oil & filter, greased and adjust the width of the front end. If it wasn't so late in the year I would use it this Winter for a little snow plowing. Working on the front grille trying to straighten the horizontal bars now and some painting to do. I was able to locate a nice set of tools to do it. Gave it a cleaning yesterday and moved some leaves to the pile. I will update as I progress along. Pictures are through the course of years since purchase with the rims painted all red and left rear tire on backwards. It's getting there.

Continuing the dozer blade theme... A year ago, @ebinmaine gifted me a parts-missing and extremely tired BD-4263 (1963). A PO had already repaired the bottom edge with a new plate. I wasn’t sure I even wanted a plow. Last fall I made a rotate control lever and linkage (with Heims), extended the frame rearward to work with a latch-in instead of the original (and not present) bolt-in mounts, installed plow shoes, and made a plow centering bracket for the front hitch. Well, I’ve come to appreciate plowing over blowing for the sort of snow we are getting here and I decided to finish the refurb and keep this thing. So, I... - Cut and re-welded the plow shoe brackets to keep the shoes flat to the ground - Cut out the seriously wallowed pivot sleeve in the frame and a friend installed a new one (DOM ¾ ID, 1-¼ OD, ¼ wall) -- a bit heavier than the original - Added an extra layer of sheet metal to the bottom of the frame’s blade junction to lessen the flop there - New Grade 8 shoulder bolt and nut for the pivot and drilled the nut for a Lynch pin I’m surely invested in this blade for more dough than one in better shape to start with would’ve cost, but I’m content.

Reminds me of my new Canopy tie downs. After this year's show near debacle, I got some auger tie downs you drive into the ground with a cordless impact gun. Worked great at the next show.

Almost forgot fixed plow pivot pin to accept grease. I couldn't believe how dry that pin was. When I took it apart I greased it up and put it back together and you couldn’t believe what a difference that made. Got to thinking there should be an easier way to grease beside taking it apart and this is what I came up with. Got idea from front end loader on my farm Tractor 🚜 . @Handy Don I used both first one was with a die and last end cut with lathe (lot easier). I just had a little 1” dia 1/2-20 dia and broke my die stock handleand thats why I had to cut other end with lathe.

Back home after spending 4 days in the BILs cabin. Notice the windmills on the far mountain above the roof. No electric or water in the cabin.

Worked on daughters 522xi, oil change service and installed the snow plow. The deck has about 150 hours on sealed bearings. Still nice and smooth! Surprising how clean the deck is after cutting up the leaves. One other thing I keep an eye on is the right rear hub. It has one of those A to Z tapers hubs. The axle was about ten thousands under and I first had issues keeping it tight. That 1.125 taper is good to 5 under. With nothing to loose. I drove the taper in as deep as it would go, tightening and tapping on the taper while the out hub was blocked. I gauge it by the axle stick out. Has ran 95 hours on loaded tire and chains. Hanging tough!

Sharpened some mower deck blades before putting it away for winter! First time using this style blade fixture and it worked great. It's supposed to be bench mounted, but I just C clamped it to a saw horse and it worked great! Here's the link if anyone is interested: https://a.co/d/9IHreoA IMG_8403.mp4

As with most days, today I was wearing one of my Wheel Horse shirts. My brother stopped by and he had one on, then a little while later my son in law stopped by and he too had one on! It wasn’t too long before we were laughing about it, so I had my bride take a picture.

@sqrlgtr have mine for years now , amazingly smooth . easy to operate . my reference to the lower , squeeze lever , shoulder bolt swing point is a vital one . as I originally set mine up , went after every hang up area , also set it up on 2 milk crates , so I could,roller stool around it experiment with swing quadrant reaction . came to shoulder bolt m as the SMOOTH , SWING lever main issue , correction . dialed in funcion , with flat washers on each side of its , threaded / smooth areas , used a regular nut to experiment with , once found , remove regular nut , held setting with a , elastic lock nut . then squeeze lever response , to quadrant slide pin , like aerosol red grease , its so smooth easy function is still amazing , top off with a lubricated finish for snow slide off , also added a heim joint to my pto lever rod end , smooth / solid , enhanced that battery tray , start area . hides in plane site , glad you are doing it , pete

Threaded and added heim joints to push pull rod for snow plow.

Yes it was. Real good guy to deal with.

@953 nut grandson , crew chief , c-130 j , will be going on to college , just after his hitch , bout a year , looks like he picked up 20 lbs of solid muscle , very squared away , flew the world , amazing , aura about him , insight , experience , likes the west coast for rust free cars / trucks , think that could be in the zone , oily , pete

I used to be on that schedule. Somehow I found too many good deals and couldn’t resist, but that’s then and this is now and everything is back to normal. I only have one left to do being a 1057 and after that I don’t know time will tell I guess. I’ll start that in January. Enjoy your day.

This is why my resto season is January - April.

I would say yes it does. My 1943 D cells don’t have any voltage info.

I’m not the Fig Plucker nor the Fig Plucker’s son But I shall pluck figs till the Fig Plucker comes

A compression test or even better a leak down test will let you know if you have a compression issue. I would make sure that you have good compression before pulling it apart.

My other hobby (ok, obsession) is old flashlights. I’m kinda hot and cold with it though. I can easily go a year without buying one or even looking for one. Today the wife and I were in an antigue store and I wasn’t even looking for flashlights, but stumbled across this one so I picked it up to give it a once over and see what the price was. Bulb is missing and it’s not in great shade. Plus I like em older (this one is about a 1948 light). It was heavy, which usually means old dead batteries that have leaked out and corroded the inside. Yes it had old dead D cells inside, but they hadn’t leaked out. Check out the use-by date on them! Which means they were produced before that date. Bought this flashlight just for the batteries…. $7.00

Going with these The serial numbers for early sms-50 vary, I’ll just pick one!

When I split my Dad's Allis B I used a chain fall on the front, engine crane on the rear. I had to replace the center section so I used an old air/hyd axle jack for that

I'm not at home to take measurements but here are some pics for you to reference. Could it be that your belt is too long ?

Yankee ingenuity is a good thing. I use it quite frequently.

I have done splits on my DC3 and VAC Do not think I could have done it outside on dirt....Besides it wold have probably rained or snowed on me as i do not work super fast... You do not have to split my Farmall M to do the clutch (Yeah!!)

They have the feature tractor for that show on them. Don't ask @c-series don about last years he'll come unglued on ya...

Before we throw the baby out with the bath water, the CH engines have had head gasket problems. A good place to start on this is a compression test. A good number for these engines is 150-200 PSI. I have had them run ok in the 130 range. but lacked some power. Question is the plug oil fouled or fuel fouled. Assuming it is fuel fouled is the better of the two. Since you are pulling the motor, check the intake manifold bolts. I have seen those loose. Also a good Idea would be to change the rear seal. Gap on the coils .011-.013 Part numbers If you find out the advance spark system is bad this is a fix. (I have eliminated the advance and just wired in standard coils with success)

Achto that is what got me into trouble. I neglected the house and the yard for 4 years working on too many tractors. This year I put my foot down and got the house back in shape with the yard. It’s funny how 1-2-3 years goes by and you look out the window and say wow what happened here..

Went and picked up some free rounds of wood for firewood. Perfectly cut to length...... enough to fill the 8' bed of my truck, so it was a decent amount. Brought it home and unloaded the rounds. Then we met two other couples at a newly-opened winery that is just up the road from us (www.langmanwinery.com) They have a real chef running their kitchen and they have a good selection of menu items. The actual winery is in California and they ship product to beautiful NW Arkansas. I had THE BEST french dip sandwich that I have ever had..... then came home and relaxed.....

A little more data would be helpful: Is the plug fouled with dry/soft black soot, with oil, or with fuel? If it looks wet, let it dry out for a while to see if it's fuel or oil. Any results from trying a new spark plug as @Handy Don suggested? If you tried a new plug, does the new plug become fouled after running for an hour or so? Does the other spark plug look perfectly normal? Compression or leak-down test results as @Achto suggested? Any visible smoke, either black (rich mixture) or bluish (oil) in the exhaust under various operating conditions? Any noticeable miss in the engine under different operating conditions? Any backfire under different operating conditions? Any knocking/clanking/clicking sounds? And if so, under what conditions? Does the CH22 in your 522xi have the Smart Spark system? If so, that could add another variable. Look for a rectangular box mounted on the blower housing next to the valve cover (mine is on the right side). ...and photos are always helpful.

Wow go figure ... My offer would have been missing alot of digits.... Had a customer bring in a Cub with a Kohler and it was just the plug but yes do a compression or leak down test.

It could also be as simple as a bad plug. Cheap and easy to test--you could just swap them but I’d probably buy a new one.

Will eventually get a full resto. I'm usually an all in kind of guy.

Going back together pics.

I have seen here from a multitude of people that it is better to get a rebuild kit and rebuild your original carb than it is to test your luck with the Chinese knock offs

Since I'm in Indiana I'll just mention that I've had trouble with Indy USPS also. I don't remember the details but I had a similar experience at least once where a package came to Indy, went backc out of the state again, then came back later (much later) but was eventually delivered. I'm not sure if it was USPS but recently my wife ordered me some nice shoes and after a couple weeks they hadn't showed up. Vendor sent another pair (slightly different, actually an upgrade) that showed up pretty quickly, then about a week later the original order showed up so I got a free pair of shoes. Actually, I think the second pair was free also because they refunded the original order, then somehow they gave my wife some discount codes that added up to 100% off - she did not inform them of their mistake. Anyway, about the only useful thing I learned from my first employer after college (doing environmental testing and sending important documents) was "never trust the mails". We used Fedex exclusively. Saving a few bucks wasn't worth the potential trouble.

The price of admission sounds good but the final cost could be another story. Are you going to drop in a big diesel in it and a fifth wheel to become your new towing machine?

Good to know you had a safe trip home without any deer collisions. I just got home and passed 27 deer smears between Cumberland, Md and Chambersburg, Pa. Around 100 mile and that's just one side of the interstate. The Ber Vac installation must have gone well. Which lift rod/ rock shaft did you use? Were the holes there for the rotator rod support? I see you don't have the lift assist spring on. I know the hydraulics can lift it, but the spring really takes the strain off the mechanical levers involved in the lift. Sure glad I was able to meet you half way in time for you to get her installed before the snow. Have fun in the snow tomorrow. We have rain right now.

We like stacks here!

Uh Oh ...

Of course you can drive them, that is after you pass the written exam and then the mowing/driving test 🤣🤣🤣

Looks like that picture and story should be in the calendar.

Beat me to it. Got held up at a job site, otherwise I would have done the same a few hours ago.