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I'm getting very close to being in trouble, but I managed to sneak another one home. Pretty sure it is a 701. Hard to see in the photo but the sticker under the "K" in Kohler still faintly reads 7hp. Not entirely sure where the seat came from... There is a funky back rest, not sure if this was ever an option or accessory?

May 23, 1785, Benjamin Franklin reveals his design for what would later be called bifocal glasses. The Pennsylvania inventor, printer, author, diplomat and American Founding Father had grown tired of alternating between two different pairs of glasses to help his near or far vision. So, he came up with an idea to, quite literally, split the difference. Franklin is widely credited as the inventor of bifocals.

Remove the tension bar, clean up the mess and reassemble with the missing spring and new plastic parts. The bar should slide freely to keep the belt tensioned.

Nah, he probably just went straight to “progressives”.

It is ... and a nice survivor at that. Dealer add on. That one is a but not the original back rest.

If you’re going for the original look and are staying with the steel wheels, I have period correct hub caps for your truck that came off my F-350 SRW they are basically like new.

Went to a garage sale and came home with a 1988 wheel horse 520 H. Included a 42 inch snow blade that has been widen out to 57 1/2 inches, a new set of four link chains and tensioners. 48 inch mower deck, and IH weights on the rear. Previous owner was experiencing intermittent problems with starting and running. Got it home and discovered that a plug wire was shorting out. The Hydro lever was converted to foot control. Also included a replacement dash.

I have this deck and just sharpened the blades. The spring must adjust out the slack in the belt otherwise the belt is TOO LONG.

A little patch work on hieght adjustment on the 42” deck off of 312-8 I been working on. Its on discharge side of deck all the other decks I have seen where on the other side?

Wheelhorse all done restored

Hi all, I haf a 60's VW bug, when i got it, it ran good, had vacuun wipers ,worked had a storm, and thay quit working couple miles from home , next day got a flat ,went to change it ,it was flat,. The vacuum line was hook up to the spare, used up the air ,no wipers and a flat tire

Raining here so I figured it would be a good day to service the decks. The grass is growing so fast the noise keeps you up at night. So a clean out of clippings and a greasing was in order. A few weeks back I picked up a couple of 12" Case wheel weights on FB for cheap. I always liked the looks of these. A little Regal Red and they look right at home on HHHOOOWWWAAARRRDDD!!!

The "coffee can " resi was indeed oem back in the day but they rusted out. Went to the shot put style tank. My Falcon wipers were off the fuel pump. The HVAC system defaults to defrost with loss of vacuum so that explains why it was switching. And for some reason, mice liked to eat the colorful vacuum hoses under the dash of Chrysler 5th Avenues!

Having reliable brakes and a good parking brake were my goals in doing the swap.

Field mowing was not envisioned for a WH belly-mount finish mower--a neat and smooth 2.5-3.0 grass lawn was the aim! I strongly suggest a towed flail mower. Flails are widely used on highway verges. You might also consider acquiring, and potentially modifying, a WH front-mounted mower deck carrier frame. No tractor mods needed.

@MainelyWheelhorse added this years ago to my decks , almost hiding in plane site ? long unsupported belt , combined with unknown spindle bearing grease ? bakes for a buzzing wreck , experimented with one deck , all 3 run the same trouble free quiet , also regreased my mule drive bearings , improved that gold mine of issues . pete

Should be 1/2" by 89" belt. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/huskee-v-belt-1-2-in-x-89-in-oc-1012571?store=219&crmid=6663814901&utm_source=google&utm_medium=pmax&utm_campaign=tsc0_sea_tsc_cat_search_sch_us_cvr&utm_content=sku_na&adtype=pla&campaignid=22258948701&device=c&product_channel=local&product_id=1012571&store_code=219&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22269431188&gbraid=0AAAAADnTm20RvsdRIUAIoaUKG5VZVFJy7&gclid=Cj0KCQjwoMXQBhDcARIsAH-eEtsuJ7oBLhKKwvF0vx6VpZW98MCuEDEXLPcfJOMBlfOmbo-g1vlI9qwaArkZEALw_wcB

That hefty spring provides all of the tension. If your belt is loose, it's too long or worn out.

Found 1-1/4” pipe to have about same ID as the OD of the elbow (1-3/8”). Cut a piece to length, and split the end a bit to hopefully allow enough springery action for a muffler clamp to work.

I finally finished taking the other donor machine apart today. It was a C-125 8 speed black hood. And it was one of the rustiest hunks of junk I've ever tackled. Everything on it is frozen, even the differential. No pedals or steering parts would move. After getting the tranny removed I poured a gallon of kerosene in it and set it aside for later. The differential did finally free up but the shifters are stuck. That is a project for a later date... The biggest thing I was after was the center console and steering support thingy. None of the side or belt covers will work because I'm building a hydro. Maybe I'll use the footrests. They look shorter than usual... maybe it's my uncalibrated eyes. I had to cut the steering shaft. Didn't want to risk breaking the aluminum supports up top. I'll e-tank the wheel and see if it the rest of the shaft can be safely removed later. Probably gonna use a larger wheel anyway. But- everything will line up and bolt onto this newer chassis. At least there's no mods to do there.

@953 nut @ineedanother @ICONN @squonk @Bill D @peter lena @sqrlgtr@midpack @Handy Don @oldlineman Thanks for the help guys. Now I know how the tensioner is supposed to work. It was too tight so the spring wasn’t engaged and it couldn’t slide to tension up the belt. I went back to re tighten and check the tensioner to make sure it worked. I also redid the routing and the belt tightened right up. It seems to mow great now just like it did before. Now, with an eighth of the noise. The forum came through again!

I've only heard good reviews of the cheap modules but they are likely made by several manufacturers. Are you carefully following the direction of rotation in the manual? The older black rotors were troublesome, the newer gray ones are better. That silly shaped flywheel key may be a source of your problem, often they are damaged or installed backwards, the flywheel nut should be tightened to 55 ft. lbs. The fact that the choke makes a difference leads me to think it may be fuel related, usually when a module fails it shuts down till it cools.

I also had a mid-60’s Bug. That wasn’t the vacuum line connected to the spare, it was the washer fluid reservoir. There was no pump--when you filled the reservoir with washer fluid, you also pumped it up with pressure OR connected it to the spare tire (for pressure, not vacuum). If you did the spare tire route and then kept pressing the washer button when there was no fluid to deliver, eventually you took all the pressure out of the spare.

In the first pic the slide looks to be installed correctly and all the way to the tightest position which is why I suspected either the wrong belt length or it not being on one of the outer pulleys. I'm still leaning toward belt length being the issue.

I've seen where the slot in the sliding tensioner gets worn from riding on the bolt causing it to get hung up. Is the plastic glide ok? Bolt holding the tensioner too tight? If the tensioner moves freely I would try a smaller belt

They are made of plastic now and have a check valve on the input line. A few years back my wife was complaining about the AC cutting off and switching to heat while she was driving. It never occurred when I was driving, we took it to two dealers since it was under warranty and neither one could find the problem. Johnny, the mechanic at our Goodyear store, went for a test drive with me, then we swapped sides and he drove putting the pedal to the metal and sure enough, the AC changed over to heat. Guess the wife is a bit more aggressive behind the wheel than I am. The following day Johnny had the new reservoir and it was off to the races with cool AC for the wife.

89"x 1/2" belt. Please take a picture with the belt guards off.

You'll be happy to know this one will get treated right. The whole frame and suspension was painted when the truck was reassembled back in the early 2000s. It's been driven only about 3,000 to 3,500 miles since. Always stored under cover. It will continue to have a permanent position in my barn. The rear frame will be pressure washed and a few small areas wire brushed and repainted. I'm probably replacing one crossmember because the support brackets for it are a touch thin. There will be no Ford bed. I'm building a flat bed for it. 7 foot wide most likely. Length not sure yet.

Bought this 312 new in 89. Same exhaust, garage kept.

Want me to run over and plant some M80s while you are gone? That will break the ground up right quick.

The whole mess in the end. How can something this simple take an entire afternoon and $50? I won’t be sure it works until tomorrow. I have a deed restriction on my property that prohibits ever having the correct size hardware or clamps on hand, so I’ll have to run to town & look for a 1- 5/8” muffler clamp. Will advise. Everybody have a great holiday weekend!

Yeah I have to defer to this line of thought. Some folks love thier Tecchy engines. To each his own. I guess a human being can get used to most anything. Bad food, lousy job, ugly women, and Techumseh engines... Go with the K321. Time and money in this engine is a far better bet and it might actually last. It absolutely will be more dependable.

And...the oil pan gasket made it safely and fit in the mail box without getting bent . Got the pan on so things should move along now. I tidied up some wiring on the brake switch and verified its operation. Drained the lift cylinder since I'm changing from ATF and got it back in place. If the weather allows I'll get the welder out to do some repairs on the battery box and belt guard. Things should move along quickly if that happens. Hopefully the weather will cooperate.

I've never owned that deck but your routing looks correct. Are you sure you're using the correct belt and that it's riding in the pulleys under the guards correctly?

I had a Rambler station wagon with vacuum wipers, they were assisted by the fuel pump with a diaphragm vacuum pump incorporated in it.

Between painting The fence and porch trim and hauling garden dirt I managed to get the lawn mowed with the C-160.

here are some photos of the 312-8 with bagger system as well as the underneath of a 37 deck with the 2 blades and the lift attachments on the outside blade to propel the clippings and leaves up the chute

Got some great scrubbing done on the doors, dash, roof and seat. Didn't do the floor because I'll likely replace it.

i always thought my 37 SD on my 312-8 was terrific cut - - maybe the 2 blade design, or the lift attachment on the one blade -- but it sure leaves nice cut - and the 12 Kohler always enough power

3d printed and aluminum.

Twice a year I fill up the booze free cans. 20 gallons a crack. I hate to say we're fortunate here in the Hoosier state but the state taxes have been removed short term. $4.76 at a Michigan City Murphy. I barely avoided hitting the hundred dollar mark.

Even if there is fuel coming from the pump a systematic check of the fuel system could reveal areas of deferred maintenance that need attention.

If there is an advantage going from a sundstrand to and eaton, it would probably be that an eaton can be modified to have a foot control and not so much for a sundstrand. Lots of work and mods to make that happen.

I just ordered a free test kit from Tennessee Radon Program @sqrlgtr Grok AI says this is a high risk area. https://secure.airchek.com/cgi-bin/tn-free-test.cgi

Dig a big enough hole to burry them so you don't trip over them.

Looks Like that spring has seen better days too.

Haven't had time for posting for the last couple of weeks. Lots of things keeping me occupied. For example: Wife and I took the train from here in Brunswick to NYC and spent a few days there. I haven't been there for years. Food and museum trip mostly. It was fun, but a bit tiring. Did some more work on my 1954 Dodge M37. Took the block to a machine shop for magnafluxing and some measurements. Made some more custom etched-aluminum dashboard plates, Ordered more parts. I'm expecting a reproduction bed floor and stainless steel fuel tank to be delivered tomorrow. I hope they made it through shipping in one piece. Arranged to have a set of three double-hung windows replaced with a combination sliding/fixed set that improved the view of our backyard (and the windows have a better e-rating, too. I'm currently trying to create some illustrations of a wood-lined 'graving dock' for use in new signage at the site of an historic mid-19th-century shipyard in a new park that the town has created. I'm using a combination of photos, AI, and manual drawing. It will probably take me another week to finish those. If they turn out OK, I'll post them here. It took longer than usual to get set up for putting our dock back in the water for the season. It's always a lot of work, which is my own fault for making it more complex than most peoples' docks. However, once installed, it works great, so I guess it's worth it. Here I'm backing the dock into the water at a neighbor's place a few lots up the street from us: A few neighbors pushing our dock off of my trailer. And motoring it up the river like modern-day Huck Finns. I just clamp on my 6 hp outboard, which is adequate to move it upstream to our place, although you can't water ski behind it. Dock is in. Pictures below were taken at low tide. It turned out to be 'dock day' in the neighborhood, as we put in two more docks for neighbors down the street. 17 people showed up for the impromptu event. I mowed the front lawn today for the first time this season. The grass was a foot tall in places and there was a ton of damp grass glop under the mowing deck. After mowing, I used the water hose clean-out on the deck for the first time, as I was curious to see how well it worked. After running the deck at full speed for about three minutes with the hose attached, I reached underneath to probe around for the results. It got rid of almost all of the grass except for a little around the spindles and a little next to the exit chute. I then ran it at full speed for a couple more minutes with the hose disconnected to help dry it, and then parked it in the sun to dry the rest of the way. I'll try it again for the next couple of mowings and then jack up the mower and have a closer look underneath to see how clean it is and how the paint is holding up. If I see any damage from the water cleaning, I'll pressure-wash and recoat the underside and forego the use of the hose clean-out.

What did you "fix" on it?

I see ... I think ... so the amp draw is only on the internal connection between the large post and the small one on the solenoid. Not thru the start button. Be care when working with the dash plate KP. use mounting screws with small heads. They can break the plate at the corners on the bottom if too big. I used the original ammeter just for old skool look. Tom @Shynon was playing with making aluminum plates on his milling machine. Don't know if he perfected that yet or not.