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Many years ago, when I started out as a maintenance planner, we had issues with a cutter gearbox on a mining machine. Big money gearbox (6 figures). The box was lubricated with 460 gear oil (sae 140). The box also had internal passages of hydraulic oil for extension cylinders. One of the internal passages failed and was allowing the hydraulic 46 to fill the gearbox and seep out of the breather diluting the gear lube. At the time the spare was in rebuild. We had about six weeks of production left in the schedule for the machine. A decision was made to just keep running the machine and changing the oil every three days. We estimated the dilution rate was maxed at that point. The OE was against the decision and recommended we shut down the machine. That was not an option. The oil supplier felt it would be okay, of course with a disclaimer. Actually, the dilution was far worse than anticipated and we ended up just running the box on hydraulic 46. When we removed the machine from service, and the box inspected for wear, there we no issues found. It actually led to the OE changing the oil spec to a lower viscosity oil. I'm with Ed on this one, I believe those WH eight speeds would run just fine on 10w30 and get lubed better. Might have a little more gearbox noise tho. In the hydro's I have moved from motor oil to premium tractor hydraulic fluid. THF is a 10w30 weight and has a vitamin package that is more inline with the application. Of course at the time when these machines were built, the oil selection and technology was not nearly as good.

Back on th 520-H! Been a long winter and it's time to get this 2000 hour basket case to work! Tackling some of the outstanding issues that would cause to it to be a burden to use or otherwise be unreliable. The goals is to fix the major concerns, then put it to work this year taking care of my parent's place. After it proves itself this year, we will make some time to get more detailed with it next year. First step is the awful steering. Replaced the tie rod ends, which took up a significant amount of slop. The gear reduction system still needs shimmed/adjusted to get the rest of the play out, and the front axle will need reamed/bushed to take care of the negative camber issue. The larger issue that we are going to deal with later is the steering quadrant not being properly welded in respect to the main fan gear. We made temporary accommodations for this by adjusting the tie rod ends to balance the steering as best as possible. Video detailing some of our findings:

Kohler, Tecky, Briggsy all painted their heads from the factory. Whilst I agree, too much paint would be a deterrent to cooling a couple of coats aren't going to amount to a hill of beans!

The lighter motor recommendation came out in a service bulletin in the mid 60's. It was to minimize the suction effect on the shift rails with hopes to minimize getting the transmission stuck in two gears. A short time later they came out with another bulletin with an actual mechanical fix. Using the lighter oil ended up in a few owners manuals and was never changed back. But so many of these transmissions lead a long life being lubed on water and sludge just keep something slick in there. I use 80w90 in mine.

I was going a couple miles to pick up a long shute snowblower and a 42” SD rusty mower. Free mind you!! I got talking with the owner and i said “whats this tractor?” The owner said it was a Sears w/ cast iron briggs 8 or 10 hp, with plow (didn’t run due to electrical issues) and it was free too!! Well, i loaded a bunch of free parts and a sears tractor and was headed off!! I was taking pictures of the Sears tractor and came across this, a serial #. I was wondering what year it is? Im into WH, not much of a Sears guy, pretty cool ol tractor! Im just gonna sell it.

I have mowed with both a 312-8 and a 310-8 . As long as you cut dry grass at the correct adjustment height and the grass isn't ridiculously tall you should be fine. I never really noticed a big difference between either model mowing with both of the engines being Kohler Magnums. However I would suggest the 42'' side discharge. Just my experiences.

14 year old Elam making perfect zero turns this morning. Video Project 3.mp4

I've used a 48 with a 10hp several times. More hp is always better but unless you're cutting very heavy grass your 10hp will be fine. Will it struggle in some places? Probably, but it will work if you slow down.

Green, red, yellow, blue, they're all the same, all can do the job, all can break down, and all can cause you both joy and pain. I see beauty in every color, every brand.

I've always thought that changed when the shifter rails issues got better. Thicker oils would definitely add to the "sticky" of the rails. But I would agree. If all I had on hand was 30w, I would put it in the tranny at least temporarily. But I would be sure to dump it and use 80w if I was using the transmission for plowing, heavy towing or anything that really stressed those bearings. Not to open the oldest can of worms on earth (oil discussions), but 30w oil is at best a compromise in engines. It's barely thick enough to protect working surfaces, but in air cooled engines has to be thin enough to provide a degree of cooling as well. In a geared transmission that never gets hot, the heavier 80w oil offers much better protection for the bearings.

Since it is unlike metals I would use anti seize, just don’t over tighten, the torque should be reduced because of the lubricant. It would be a good idea to run a tap in the holes and use new bolts of the same or higher strength, and if you go a bit longer it would get you into better threads.

SUCCESS!

That's exactly like I read in some manual. Forget where. But, it didn't seem unreasonable. I ended up doing it three times before the torque was set to the proper ft lbs. It's not hard, just takes patience to keep going out there and starting her up.

It seems to me that in this day and age it's difficult even for the Amish to not be drawn into modern conveniences. The Amish around here have at least some type of phone service in which to contact the outside world. They can easily rent a vehicle and driver. They seem to travel around the state and even neighboring states with relative ease. It's common to see them shopping at Walmart. I had an image in my mind's eye that they lived in the 1800's or early 1900's, but other than lack of commercial electricity, farm tractors and some tools/modern conveniences the Amish folks arn't much behind their English neighbors. Our local Amish grocery/variety store is air conditioned. Come to think of it, Some of the ways I do things are looked upon as being "old timey."

Pulled all three tractors out of their trailer today. Need to use the trailer for something else tomorrow, but also got the the Brinly mounted up to the 73 today and switched the AGs over to the 73 from the 77 for temp use.

Finally another update. I managed to source every individual piece to install a slot hitch. All pieces came in over the last couple weeks and today finally had some time to put every thing together.also took the AG tires off the 77 for temp use on this one so I can dig out the garden.

Pretty much whatever kind of gear oil you have laying around. Anything between 80w and 80w140. Gl4 or gl5 does not matter because there's no brass or other yellow metal inside a Wheelhorse transmission. Quantity is 2 quarts.

You are one lucky guy, you should go buy a lottery ticket.

Here is a !971 Raider with black wheels.

Only EVER just lightly oil the THREADS.. (not the heads or washers) anti seize compound while it might seem a good idea will severely throw off your torque readings and allow you to overtorque the bolts leading to head warp and gasket failure.

Nt really a problem. take off teh big Plastic shroud and put on a old fashioned round A/C cover.

You might find that the bulk of your steering wheel play can be adjusted in just a few minutes. There is a nut in front of the gears that takes a 3/4" wrench, remove the cotter pin and turn the nut in till the steering wheel just begins to bind and then back off just a bit. If the nut turns in so far that the cotter pin might not hold it, add a washer or two behind the nut.

I worked at the Hershey Medical Center at the time and we were given the option of going to work or staying home since we were within 20 miles of TMI. I went to work anyway because I was essential to the hospital and felt it was my duty.

March 28, 1979 A partial meltdown at the Three Mile Island nuclear plant in the US results in the release of radioactive gas and iodine into the atmosphere, but no deaths.

I was told that ATF will condition and shine up an old tire. I have some I plan to use at some point and give Putt Putt a semi retirement

Thanks. Now searching for a 42" deck

There was a large contingent of Amish farmers at the White House yesterday as a part of the "Great American Agriculture Celebration" at the White House, honoring farmers and ranchers while announcing new agricultural policies. Brooke Rollins, Secretary of Agriculture, gave special recognition to the Amish and their sustainable agricultural practices. Years back I was driving my street rod through Amish country and pulled into a gas station at the same time as an Amish man in his buggy. He was using the hand crank pump to buy kerosene while I was taking a restroom break. When I left the store I walked over and checked out the buggy and heard my wife laughing. Turns out the Amish man was checking out the street rod at the same time. We spoke for a few minutes and my wife asked if she could take a picture of us with the horse and buggy, he posed like a pro! Wish I had that picture to share.

I have to assume someone else has been changing it the last 17 years??

For me the Rusty almond is too dark. White isn't my choice either. So I mixed the two. One part almond and two parts white through a cheapo HVLP is what I ended up with.

As mentioned, I do check the head torque once a year while doing the winter change-over in the fall. I spend way more time either snowblowing or plowing than cutting grass. And the load on the engine at WOT is more than driving a cutting deck.

Welcome to Red Square. The throttle cable has to tug on the spring but do not know what is between the two. Here is the service manual Sometimes the engine operator manual has more on the subject that may help. The illustrated parts list here also is not correct for your engine. This link will take you to the illustrated parts lists https://www.partstree.com/models/171432-0534-01-briggs-stratton-horizontal-engine

Absolutely. I would use it on all fasteners in that aluminum block. And this is a good point. Especially on the bolts with higher torque values like the heads. Vanguard heads have some silly high torque values.

I'm playing with wheel weights this evening because they're simpler and the weather is crappy

No not unless you have some fin plugging that reduces cooling. For a putt around resto painting fins will have no adverse effect. If you are going to work the snot out of it yes just a light coat or nothing. No head paint no matter what the tractor is used for. This motor @Achto just painted got it with just regular paint and will only darken or burn off around the exhaust but for a show tractor will be just fine.

Only dumb question is one that doesn't get asked. Our bad for perhaps talking over your head. Early and some late horses they did bolt a AS it directly to the frame. Later models it was deemed to make them more vibration pleasing so they came up with isolation mounts and came up with different designs to do such. You'll see this in many other brands as well. Some K models were even adapted or designed to get a AS model under a short hood where frame to hood clearance was at a premium. As such as what we call a big block in a short frame. This is an example of a AS model directly mounted on the frame. If this doesn't clear things up for you Josh ask away. We are here to help you learn.

Replaced the rubber hood latches on my 314. Used a rivet tool I bot at Harbor Freight. I put in the four rivets, and the Harbor Freight tool promptly broke. Like it was supposed to. Since I bot it that day, got my pesos back. You can't take HF seriously.

Thanks gents. BTW, that OMB place is a 30 minute drive from my house. Lucky find.

Thanks! That was our second guess. Since he has headlights, I guess he can use for decoration in his shop! Great work on the decals by the way!

That decal goes on the front if your tractor does not have headlights.

Nah, all married women react that way - it's an alergic reaction brought on from the gold in the wedding band!!

SAE 30wt. This is what I use in all my old Kohler engines. I know it says for diesel engines. It is a close formula to what your old Kohler requires. This may be a better option in your area. https://www.q8oils.com/fr/product/q8-garden-oil-sae-30/

How have I never heard of this? This is only a few towns over from me. I really gotta do some deeper searches on google I guess lol.

I think it was some kind of atf. I had one that I could never get to quit leaking but it was in pretty rough shape. Spool bore was really rough. Yah worse part it they leak right over the belt. Eventually replaced it with one off a 953 carcass & gave it to Lowell. He went through it and gave it back claiming it was leak free but I have yet to place it in service. He told me he uses Lucas hy fluid cause of the additives in it.

did a rehab of a C175 with the black rims

After further review the gear was welded on a replacement axle. PO neglected to put in keyways. Brings up another question. What could the PO possibly down to damage the original axle? Gotta remember this is just a 3.5 HP tractor that would have been have to be abused in a odd way to damage the original. After talking with Tom current plan, which may change, is to turn off the inside weld which wasn't much anyway and use machine bushings to space it from the inside of the casing. Last pic show where the weld & gear was mashing on the inside of the case. Maybe replace the axle bushings which are the same 1503 ones as on a three piece RJ/Burb tranny. Slap it back together and pin the right hub to the axle and let the left side free wheel. The way the PO did. Just not worth the time and effort to put back as orginal ... at this time anyway. This girl is just going to be a show piece and probably the only time driven is on and off the trailer.

On to the rear ... yep gonna need help on this. The pawls are missing on both sides and one pawl hub is boogered up royally. It's not a hard thing to reproduce on a lathe but I have no idea what the pawls or springs or pins even look like. I'll be down in the basement researching old threads anybody needs me ...

I try to plan a "head" and when I order a gasket I get new grade 8 flange head bolts if I don't already have them in stock in the parts dept. A little Rotella on the threads. I look at the bolt heads. See how crusty they look. Most have been in there 50-60 years. I know they aren't torque to yield bolts but It is time. Especially the bolts around the exhaust valves. Cheap insurance.