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A few years ago I traveled to Ky and bought #423 of 425 60th anniversary with less than 10 hour. I drive it a few times a year and it still has less then 15 hour on it. Its in museum condition - maybe it should be in one instead of my garage in IL

I have looked for years and finally found a pedal tractor on ebay. It came with the correct sheet of new decals. I just finished painting and reassemble. It looks good. It was built by AMF in Olney IL. I grew up near there.

June 4, 1896, in the shed behind his home on Bagley Avenue in Detroit, Henry Ford unveils the “Quadricycle,” the first automobile he ever designed or drove. Ford was working as the chief engineer for the main plant of the Edison Illuminating Company when he began working on the Quadricycle. On call at all hours to ensure that Detroit had electrical service 24 hours a day, Ford was able to use his flexible working schedule to experiment with his pet project—building a horseless carriage with a gasoline-powered engine.

I just bought #32. it has 1300 hours and is in very rough shape with an SS (super stupid) emblem on the hood. It will not start and run. it will fire for a few seconds with starter fluid. it has all the chrome and a 48 inch deck with a hole in it. #32 George F Schleicher now owned by Norman D in Rockton IL

Hey guys, I wanted to start a topic for this 682 cub cadet. It’s been a blast to work on and build for a buddy of mine. I got it in 2023 from someone who their dad passed away and they inherited the 6. They sold it to me for 250$ with a non running tractor, a deck, and snow blower. We sold the snow blower the same year and set the tractor aside for 3 years almost to the date saying we will get to it sometime. This buddy of mine came to stay with us for a couple days early this year. He said he needed a reliable lawn mower that would last. Dad and I looked at each other and we knew exactly what tractor he needed…you guessed it the 682. I didn’t have much time because I was in school but in between the things I had going on I was able to work on the 6.I did the well know steps to a restoration, I striped it to the frame, I started sanding the sheet metal for later, etc. I worked on the frame and wheels to get it to be a roller and that is where I am today. I am excited to see where this thing ends up and all the things along the way. Fingers crossed I should be able to start sheet metal soon.

I was at Wheelhorse when marketing did this. They did complete the Baja desert race with a STOCK 520-H. It had 3 options from the catalog. 1 dual tires, 2 cleated tires, and 3 aux fuel tank. I restored a 1991 520-H which came with the original baked, cooked sticker on the hood. since I planned on using it I put the replacement sticker on the seat. A body shop painted the hood and fender. Its a sharp tractor I still use

Henry's Quadracycle had no brakes and was able to go 20 MPH. Ford and the rest of the automotive industry has come a long ways in 130 years. When I was a kid driving $ 50.00 clunkers if a car or truck had 100K on the odometer it was destone for the scrap heap, now 300K is very common. Heard the other day that the average age of cars on the road in the US is about fifteen years old. My wife's car is eighteen years new and she won't even consider replacing it, my truck is seventeen years young and I feel the same.

I use Mobil 1 High Milage 10w40 in my well worn C160 hydro

That’s not a rubber hose if I’m looking at what you are asking about. It’s part of the PTO clutch assembly.

That loop is metal. It pulls the PTO clutch together to engage the mower deck. Real nice looking tractor !!

Tractor Supply Kevlar 5/8" X 82"

I’ve owned/driven Toyotas, Chevys, Dodges, RAMs, GMCs, Nissans, Plymouths, Hyundai’s and Kia’s (and probably some other brands) …but never have I owned a Ford. Closest I had was a 1976 Mercury Capri with a v6 and a 4 speed manual. Very quick car! Funny enough I’m researching the mid/size trucks right now and the 2026 Ranger is very appealing.

turned out it was the cylinder leaking. I believe it was wheel horse parts and service the rebuilt the cylinder for me. now it stays up for a few days. thanks ken

Big Show at the South Mountain Fairgrounds https://wheelhorseclub.com/

That's great - thanks for the link, that'll come in handy. The last digits of the serial # is a 6. The tractor has an interesting story. My dad specialized in restoring John Deere 950's as a hobby. He knew I needed a small garden tractor and he found the C160 along the side of the road worse for wear. I found these old photos of when he started working on it for me. Between him and the family friend they fixed this up so nice for me. I think they knew that these machines last a lifetime if cared for properly and what a great gift it has been. Dad passed from glioblastoma in 2019 and this Wheel Horse always gives me a smile when I think of the work he put into it for me.

x2

No problem, I will get some photos of my battery cable routing as soon as I get home. As far as the unknown rubber hose, here is a pic of it circled in blue. On my tractor, it appears to be going to nothing on either end.

I have used a piece of inch and a quarter Schedule 80 PVC pipe to tap on driving the seals into the housing with a 1 1/8" axle.

Somewhere a vintage truck is missing its clearance lights, I love the look.

For less than ten bucks you can save your self a lot of work. https://www.ebay.com/itm/387663699009?_skw=garden+tractor+ignition+switch+pigtail&itmmeta=01KT96NMHBN9AGSJD2BNR8Y3HR&hash=item5a428e9c41:g:JoIAAOSwFexnSXIO&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAABAGfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xB7dv9Pw%2F3UTMMyXdo549kKSOJC%2BkZzMXRHpMSRWPhE3uFzHZ4GlRzpJcaNnqDwfh0cGWPi5cYWQPVf17rsgb8TFmgLA7y%2Bg8I5x2B7FaGj%2BkB563Um3yi8LbDfwmFv9D7uFoKqTkjzNKQeQWZRaqAplpjyKrNIbEcSO6SCEy4UX%2B5fezQnMrsS19oN9kQ3j77UTMOK6DlB04m6YaJdJ6Rxj9yYLqg9wjUmGLpB8saPHCVezGwFeI%2Fy0VSONfULPN0mFkYnZLaTDTds9ZKQpYZKHMclcGU0IlrOgn2bQwqy8Rs9wecDEaxYarpiPBRdsEw%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_DI1qbSZw

Eric if you become a supporter of this site, you can post all the pictures you want. It’s only 20 bucks a year cheap price for the pleasure that you get. Good luck with your project and enjoy the ride when it’s done.

yeah, by the looks of the rub marks on the top it is a tight fit to slide it off. I see a master link on the chain might be the other option??

Supposed to be GOOD VIBRFATIONS, not bad.

@sqrlgtr I don't have much choice here in Poland, I had only 1 original (pretty new) and another one was worn out so a few months earlier I temporarily put even cheaper wheel,but now that red one fits perfectly.

You have to take into account the weather. It's Nado season !

Your next adventure Kevin! Driving a tractor back and forth to the show. Better leave soon!

Welcome to Red Square. Not a hydro owner so will leave that to the experts. Since you are new here is a link to two pages of search results for the 1-0481. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=1-0481&quick=1&type=downloads_file There are 2 pages from the lube charts in with the OM (Operator manual) Just click on the thumb nails and they will enlarge. Is the last digit of the serial number a 6 or 8?

This is a fantastic resource - thank you Daveoman1966 for providing the level of detail and pictures as it's incredibly helpful. I am the owner of a 1975 C160 hydrostatic that my father and his friend rebuilt back in 2007. Both of them are deceased. The friend was an avid Wheel Horse collector that at one point had roughly 20 models. He could diagnosis and fix any issue on those tractors on-the-spot and I miss him dearly. The tractor is running incredibly well but I'm ready to do the transmission fluid change and have a question. I recall at one point that I was having issues going up steeper hills and my dad and his friend made some adjustments. I can't remember if they increased the viscosity of the oil or if there were other adjustments. My question is, should I use 10w30 or 10w40 oil? If it has the tendency to have some issues climbing steeper terrain, particularly in hot summer weather, would the heavier weight help? Would something like AMSOIL 10w40 be a good choice? I noticed that the Mobile 1 10W40 only comes in High Mileage formula and I don't know if that's good for this application. I use Royal Purple for all of my engine oil needs but don't know if I want purple oil in the transmission. :) And is a simple drain and fill with filter change enough or do I need to figure out how to flush it? It has roughly 325 hours on since 2007 when it was overhauled. It runs like a champ and the only issues I've had over the years is some of the bolts coming loose where the mower deck attaches to the tractor. I want to keep this tractor running well for my life to honor my dad and his friend and someday pass it down to one of my children. I am not a mechanic but can do basic maintenance. Thanks again!

Welcome to the Forum! Just to help out, how about taking and posting a couple of pictures of what you’re looking at? Best are JPEG (HEIC, the default iPhone format, won’t work).

I'm a tractor guy, and I am always open to new brands. I currently have a Cub Cadet 129, 1250, 1650 as well as a John Deere 212. I also have 4 Massey Ferguson tractors( 50, 130, GC2300, 1825E), a JI Case SC, a 1946 JD Model A, Farmall Cub, International 184. I was given a C-161 with the 8 speed Hi/Low transmission that was / is quite the basket case. When I picked up the tractor it had 4 flat tires, missing headlights, the hood was disconnected, gas smelled like varnish, clutch pedal stuck, steering mostly stuck, it looked like it sat outside for years, full of leaves, and moss of some kind growing in the cracks of the seat. This one is going to be fun. After digging into it, I found the coil was cracked, ammeter toast, battery toast, wiring was in shambles, mower deck is frozen, the hood was damaged and someone did a real rookie welding job on it :). But, the engine is not stuck!!!! I rewired the tractor, replaced the coil with one off one of my Cubs, cleaned and adjusted the points, changed the fuel filter, cleaned and gapped the spark plug, adjusted the governor and throttle cable, Grabbed an air filter and cover from a Cub cadet, swapped the battery. Now the old girl is running. I need to clean the carb, it's a little rough on the top end. I greased up the steering and it's a lot better, lubed up the clutch pedal and it's now working great. The brakes work as well as all 8 gears and the clutch seems good. Then I removed the mower deck so I can take a look at it and find out what is the cause of it not wanting to spin the blades. I have to admit, the Wheel Horse quick connect for the deck is pretty slick. What I need... Headlight assembly, points cover, air filter (this one is twice the size of my other Kohler filters), air filter cover (the big one), If anyone has any good tips on a good source or 2 for some of these parts that would be great. I wish I would have taken more pictures when I picked it up and to document the progress. I think I might try to make this tractor pretty again. Wish me luck. Eric W in NW Arkansas

Will measure later today .

yeah it is....

After a little over a month Sooki is finally starting to get over her ugly puppy stage of life. She sure is a ball of energy, all go all the time. She's getting her basic commands down pretty good, food is a great motivator of course.

The BLACK and ORANGE seat switch wires being joined together with the PTO on will prevent the magneto from producing a spark, just like the operator leaving the seat. What was the outcome of performing this test?

I did it a few weeks ago but I got the belt guard put on

@BradKahler "Was the saran wrap for getting the seal onto the shaft? If so, I didn't have any issues in that department, the problems was getting the seals pressed into the bores." oh misunderstood never had any trouble going into case (knock on wood) but I have made seal drivers that are true/sqaure on the seal side that really helps.

I file the edges of the keyway and wrap it with electrical tape to prevent damaging the seal. Also file any burrs that might be on the axle especially if there are extra set screws. And the chamfer that often needs filing is on the transmission case. And then like is mentioned oil the seal up prior to installing.

Still waiting on the 30 fence panels, but my neighbor graciously lent me a temporary fence system for the pool to be opened! I started wiring the lights too. The new pool light is no longer line voltage to the pool, I’m excited about that. I did however run wiring through a GFCI breaker.

I bought aftermarket wheels for RD deck, $7 a piece, and I installed zerks . Slightly narrower than original but color is right.

I used my 864 to pull my dad's 1257 that I forgot to check the oil level in and snapped the rod on, on a 6 by 12 trailer to the garage with more room to hopefully get the tractor out back together soon. I had the trailer balanced so that my tractor was just pulling and not dealing with the tongue weight and bouncing of everything.

Took the deck off of the c-165. I just don't need that large of a deck and need to get to work on installing the FEL before fall. Not too much to do since this is in really good shape but I have to get started on some steering upgrades.

! WI seems to have umpteen shows per weekend to choose from all summer long. You shouldn’t have a hard time finding one, but Portage, WI Garden Tractor Daze is always a favorite for my wife and I to drive to. Plus we get to hang out with cheese royalty like @WHX??, @Achto @Streetrodchev, @PeacemakerJack, @jeremi3210, @Wild Bill 633, @Coulter Caleb, @Edward Teach, @Jacob moll, and more!

Nice seat repair too

The easier way is to look at the brake drum location and rotation. On six-speeds, the drum & band are very close to the rear axle housing (i.e. within an inch or two). On 8-speeds, they are three or four inches away. If the donor is on a tractor, then you can check the drum rotation: clockwise when the tractor is moving forward on six speeds; counter-clockwise on 8-speeds. Another look is the linkage attachment: six-speed linkage attaches at the end of the band clockwise from the case mounting tab; 8-speed at the end of the band counter-clockwise from the mounting tab. This is a six-speed brake

Well we found out was causing the problem and got the tranny put back together for the third time and put it in the tractor again and now it works and is a lot slower in low gear. I've also got 100 pounds total weight per wheel plus my 135-140 pounds and limited slip and chains I shouldn't be spinning very much this winter.

Not to worry. Axles and differentials aren't shimmed like crank shafts. A bit of end play is to be expected.

Is the whole axle and diff assembly supposed to be able to move back and forth about 3/16 of an inch in the casing once its all together?

Funny you should ask, Mike..... BT,DT. One for short frames, another for long frames... Been making these FOR YEARS now... Feel free to PM me if interested.....

125 miles per day on a 520? I wonder how many butts sat in the seat over 4 days? That’s averaging 5.2 miles per hour constant. I wonder if there’s any footage of it?