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Good! Sick of looking at that through my windows (just kidding, no windows on that side of the house)

My neighbor takes care of two gardens. The one shown in the video and one twice as large in my yard (in photos). I found him a good deal on a nice tiller complete with all the idler pulleys. He couldn't be happier!

@wallfish @Sparky John had bought a doodle bug from Zagrays to screw around with... I stored it for a bit and Sunday he gets to take it home from the Belltown Tractor Show. Has a Tecumseh 16 OHV... so it will never run!! Lol sorry Bill!!!

April 20, 2008 Danica Patrick driving for Andretti Green Racing wins the Indy Japan 300 at Twin Ring Motegi; first female driver in history to win an IndyCar Series race.

When doing static timing I prefer to use a battery powered contanuity test light. Seeme like I respond more quickly to the light than a buzzer, when I hear a buzzer I look for the snooz button.

e Delivered the 314A to a new owner today. The young lady was in dire need of a tractor to do the first mowing.

There’s lots of work today to get 70 square foot of steel mounted up! Back window and door openings are cut out, window is in and I need to trim and seal it up. Back sliding door track is installed and trimmed as well.

When I hear a buzzer, either I think a boiler is in alarm or the brownies are ready to come out of the oven!

Back rims are painted for the diesel it All most done

If you had been running with a dirty air filter that was restricting the airflow you may need to adjust the carburetor now that it can breath properly.

https://www.finditparts.com/products/10408301/ags-company-pa451?srsltid=AfmBOorBjGflTr77-5J5LW5UDYcmamNXvtlYO_PuGF6wce0bU_bhveNc regularly refer to running a frame length steel fuel line , eliminating a long fuel hose break down area , this easily tucks up into the upper inside frame corner bend , make up your own , mount spots to related frame holes mine are finished off with a clear , fuel rated hose , filter, fuel check valve to carb , filter holding view of standing fuel to carb , lots of time on this , also sta bil in fuel , instant starts , been in use for years , all my small engines . another CHRONIC ISSUE , LONG ELIMINATED . PETE

Awesome! Last time I was PIC was in 1997. I still miss it sometimes but not all that came with it (US Army). The military was very good to me but it had its share of political silliness on the officer side of the fence. I have a mental block that prevents me from kissing the rear of senior officers... My hat is off to you and others who do the job you do. You save lives every time you pull pitch! I thank you sir!

My boat came with an anchor so I’m all set, I won’t need that OHV Teccy.

BC you are now in @Pullstart’s realm! 🫡 I’m guessing that is at least 150 kilos over the Ranger’s recommended max load.

At my Dad’s plant, it was flashlights. They’d go home in a hip pocket and “forget” to come back to work in the morning. Eventually, after “losing” more than 2 per year, you had to buy a new one--suddenly losses stopped. Also, to get fresh batteries, you had to turn in the old ones (which had been stamped with the company logo when issued) -- another supply line item cost trimmed. My fave is the apocryphal story of the guy who left the construction site every Friday with a wheelbarrow load of gravel. After a couple of months, the gate guard, now curious, wanted to know what the fellow was doing with all the gravel. The reply? “Gravel, heck, I’ve been stealing wheelbarrows.”

Five hour drive to the band saw location for an 8:00 am load, my poor Ranger.

Brownies? Now I’m hungry.

I never liked the hydro on the steering column. May have liked it more if it wasn't so sloppy and that "push down" to reverse. I made quite a few changes to my 523H ergonomics- made my own foot control and raised the steering wheel a couple inches. It fits me much better. But it was alot of fabrication for what it was. Sometimes, you gotta let a machine go that isn't working out. Better for someone else to enjoy it that for it to not get used.

I had several with the control on the steering column and could never get used to it. I added foot control to all my Eaton 1100s.

Where are the rocks ?? When I till here the poor tiller bounces up and down violently.

You need to have the points break open on the " S " mark and not the " T " Otherwise the timing will be late.

More thoughts assuming the pressure and flow is the same on both sides of the piston. 1. the extending stroke generates more force than the retracting stroke 2. the rod is in compression during the extending stroke 3. the rod is more subject to bending when in compression 4. the single stage rod can be nearly as large as the piston as very little force is required to retract the piston 4. the dual stage requires the rod to be much smaller than the piston to generate a working force when retracting.

Kevin is so excited he posted the same thing 3 times!

LOL! And this one is like 20 minutes from me

My left pedal still has this function. The right pedal is pulled back with a spring for backward motion and pushed forward with the ball of the foot for forward motion. The ball of the foot controls the pedal and motion range from full forward to full reverse. No changing pedals or using the heel.

My foot control retains this feature. I do not have "return to center" on the pedal itself because it never came on any other hydro. While I can understand the safety aspect of it, my pedal setup is rather loose at the friction cam so it pulls back somewhat anyway. In a panic, my left pedal centers the cam and applies the brake. Since I have several hydros, I prefer to keep that positive habit transfer.

If you go the hose route, look into the modern fuel injection hose. Mostly metric sizes, but 6mm works for 1/4". Much more resistant to interior breakdown using modern fuels.

Bob is right - rigid tubing can be a PITA to form. The new stuff - the copper nickel coil - rigid but bendable by hand is the way to go if you wish. A big advantage on under the car lines - it does not "fret" at the mounting clips - no corrosion plating wearing thru and rusting out like the OE and rigid lines.

No rocks here, Both gardens are well established, so rocks and roots aren't an issue. He tills them with his walk-behind several times throughout the year. We till in a ton of leaves every fall, so the soil is easily workable. The Wheel Horse tiller will be a huge reduction in labor.

She was a good Indycar driver, but left a lot to be desired as a NASCAR driver. Way too whiny & pouty. Indy cars are weighed with the driver onboard - all fairly equal. NASCAR cars are not - 3800 pounds without the driver. There were many protests claiming that having 100 lb Danica drive was an unfair advantage compared to the good ol' boys that weighed twice as much!! She need more advantage than that!!

Been using these for quite a few years now. About $12.00/4. I can change a lot of bearings and still be ahead but I haven't had to yet.

No manufacture or casting numbers for identification, definitely not a Crescent Band saw, I have identified the purpose of the cantilevered weight. In addition the saw is fitted with the Wright blade guides. A dynamic damper on a wood band saw—often referred to in the context of high-performance or industrial saws (like the Behringer HBE Dynamic series) or in specialized DIY modifications—is a mechanism designed to reduce blade vibration and stabilize the saw blade directly at the point of cutting. While standard wood band saws use simple guides, a system with a dynamic damper offers superior stability, particularly for high-speed cutting or when using thinner blades for heavy resawing tasks, resulting in higher precision and reduced blade breakage Perhaps the weight hanging by the cable also has something to do with absorbing vibrations.

Before you go out on a shopping spree check the fuse holders and fuses. There is a 30 amp fuse between the battery and the ignition switch and the battery acid fumes fro battery recharging will corode the fuse holders over time. To see if the solenoid is good run a small jumper from the small terminal on the solenoid to the battery + post, if it cranks over the solinoid is good. A little trouble shooting can save you some money.

With the "Ejector Seat" lever on the lower left!!

I get ours from Aircraft Spruce & Specialty. They have several types of valves, grommets, and the good quality electric fuel pumps available. Pricing is excellent. Service as well.

Here is a shaker mount K bolted direct to frame. Spacers are the same ones used in a 8hp shaker mount plus 3 washers... No belt guard mods needed

Looking forward to hanging out again! Although 11:00 am is my limit due to the wife's birthday party. Can't wait to see the look on her face when I roll up with that truck project! LOL. I didn't tell her anything about it and don't plan to either! I'm just gonna blame @Sparky and how he needed me to take it so HIS wife doesn't know HE bought it! She likes Mike so that should soften the blow a little.

There was some discussion years back that said a "freewheeling" hydro was beginning to go bad. I do not believe this to be accurate at all. There may be an acceleration valve that is hanging up but my Eatons both freewheel down a hill but both are fast and strong. They do not weaken after warming up. The foot control can be a little too sensitive, at least compared to a lever, but I've really grown accustomed to mine. But I made mine up myself. It is not like the factory control.

Call or Text me some more info. I probably have one. 5072136346

Thanks for everything Guys! And Nice recovery rig. That thing barely fit on there. Looks to be an 8 ft trailer? HA. That thing was never going to be part of the plan anyway but might as well take a shot at firing it up. Probably take it to the BS to find it a home unless either one of you guys wants it.

The "export" 518H models had the Eaton 1100 hydros, which are much more rugged than the domestic-equipped 700 series. If the tractors have hydraulic lift (no manual lift arm), and a oil filter under the rear fender, then they are 1100 series hydros.

Thanks for the responses everyone, they've all been VERY helpful! So, since I'm using this same pan on both engines I don't need the cradles? The HH100 out of my Raider is long gone but I do remember that riser plate now that I see the diagram. I'm not sure if I still have it or not. I was going to put an HH120 back in it until I realized Tecumseh engines and I don't pay well together. I also think I may have a belt guard out of a roached '68 Electro 12 I parted out years ago. A friend has an Electro 12 so I gave him the carcass to pick over and I don't remember what all was still on it. I would have kept it but it was in REALLY bad shape, I still have the engine though sitting next to the HH120 i'll probably never use. I'll have to dig out my parts boxes and see what I kept.

Especially if you end up damaging the spindle or wheel when a cheap bearing fails.

Well, it's confession time. After taking the unit for an extended run time and using it to take care of my parent's property, I realized that it's just not the right machine for me. The ergonomics are just off, I feel like the hydro control placement and steering wheel placement are just not "right". I could never settle into the operation. A foot control hydro control swap would certainly help, but with so many irons in the fire already, I have decided it's best to move on. Kind of hard to explain - but when you know, you know. And I know that I won't really enjoy spending time in the seat. I do appreciate the robustness of the design, all the cool 520-H features and upgrades, and I respect the machine for what it is. But it is time for it to go to a new home. Video update coming this week as we say goodbye on this project and let it go to someone who truly enjoys it. It was a fun dive into a machine I always wanted.

@FLtractor Take a peek at these offerings by Redo. I used one on the Indy. METAL DASH PLATE DECALS - Redo Your Horse

@wheelhorseman @Shynon @prondzy

Sorry yes that's what I meant to write I will edit that haha.

Just use pliers on it. It will come off. Be careful not to use pliers on the front or it will scar it a bit. Sometimes it's easier if you remove the four screws hold the dash panel on. You will get more maneuverability

Deck work. It was in severe need of some work on the tensioner assembly, it had been let go for far too long. New blades, new height/gauge wheels, new belts. I think this is a replacement deck shell for sure. I can't imagine at 2000 hours it's an original shell. It's way too nice.