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The RJ58 w/cbr32 and the 41’ model B Speedex were the big hits this year that got all the attention. this is the Big Show 25th anniversary 58’ that I won at the Raffle. I brag that it’s on thousands of Tshirts and Hoodies, lol. It’s in good hands and well taken care of. it is such a joy to talk with so many people that relate stories of how they or a Grandpa had a WH or Speedex or how they ran one as a teenager. And they enjoy hearing me tell the story about the Pond brothers and history that they never knew.

National Pasta day is celebrated every October 17. The folks who created pasta definitely knew what they were doing. Hundreds of years of Italian tradition go into this simple meal. Each October, we devote a special day to this incredible dish. Pasta come in many shapes and sizes but no matter the form, it’s something nearly every American Family has grown up with. Spaghetti, fettuccini, macaroni, and ravioli: pasta is undoubtably one of our favorite comfort foods. But do we know how the dish became so popular here in the states? Or where it even came from? The origins of pasta are a little difficult to trace, but many researchers support the theory that Marco Polo brought noodles back to Italy upon returning from a trip to China in 1271. Pasta was brought to America by early Spanish settlers, but wasn’t popular until Thomas Jefferson made a trip to Paris and fell in love with macaroni (which, at the time, referred to any pasta shape). Years later, when a large group of Italian immigrants moved from Italy to America, pasta became a staple and obtainable meal in the United States.

I think we can!

I’ve been looking for a 520HC for about a decade and haven’t found the right fit (price, distance, condition) until recently. My son @Coulter Caleb is purchasing his first house and it has an acre and a half of land in addition to a 125’ driveway. He needed a solid tractor for mowing and blowing. Then this one popped up on the local marketplace. It was owned by one man most of his life until his passing and then was inherited with an estate purchase. It is amazingly clean and original. The wiring is in fairly as produced condition. It ran great when we picked it up but it had several details that needed attention. finding a staple instead of a fuse was more than a little disturbing. this idler pulley was too big and the drive belt too worn and so it slapped on the frame rail making an annoying sound. I also noticed that none of the gauges were working on the dash (long story short, someone installed the wrong key switch). The tach and the rectifier were both toast and after finding some suitable used pieces with the correct key switch we were in business. Tractor was running good, charging good, and driving good 👍. then I pulled the fender pan, changed the rear end fluid/filter installed the rear hitch and cable (he may want to plow with it 🤔) and added the brackets for his bagger. Started the tractor several times to circulate the fluid while raising and lowering the deck. I was getting excited now! beefy looking horse💪🏻 I have never owned one of these (I still don’t technically—it’s Caleb’s) and I am amazed at how heavy duty certain items are! The last thing on my list was changing the oil and filter, then it was time to cut the grass. After the oil was changed, I started the tractor, went to grab something and came back just in time to hear it die😡. It sounded like it ran out of fuel. I checked the petcock and it was on. I started it again, and it ran for three or four seconds and died, then it wouldn’t start. After sitting overnight, I got it to start again but it only ran for about 10 seconds, then died again. Any thoughts on what to check first guys??? I don’t want to go on a wild goose chase. I’ve checked and lubed the 9 pin connector. I have the replacement key switch with good connections and lube. I’m wondering if it is the trigger module but I don’t know how to test that and I don’t want to take the flywheel off unless I have to…

So the other red gold... If I can get a word in edgewise with EB and Wrencher jibber jabbering about lifts ... ... Well not really a wow just keeping you turkeys on your toes... Price was right tho ... 75 but bet 50 woulda took it. I almost loaded it but woulda had to get double forgiveness and she's mighty ornry. That mighta cost me some SERIOUS coin... Already told her the 875 was for Dan or the Pullstart. '69 or so Electro 12 ran when parked. Needs a battery. Fronts a bit iffy and rears right behind. Had a service motor that was supposedly a 321 but the shroud said 301 so who knows. Its a Kohler wadda want for nothin ... Kind of a sad sack but got good bones and worth more in parts as per the usual. Good project for a youngster to play around with that's fer sure. You guys want HY lift with your popeye arms here ya go. Anyone wants it speak now or forever hold yer piece. Be more than happy to save it.

Just for inspiration...

Make sure you file down all the burrs and sharp edges before giving @Pullstart his half!

None of us were born knowing what we now know. We all learned it from others input and experiences. Your questions and documentation of your progress will be helpful to others in the future. Please ask questions and post results as you go along, we are here to help.

If I can get a word in edgewise with EB and Wrencher jibber jabbering about lifts: Sorry to steal your thunder Jim.. The electro. Looks like a good runner. Or you you said for parts. Can always use them on hand.

Spent most of the day working, or should I say sitting on my butt drawing a paycheck it was a DEAD day at the shop today. After work I was planning on going out to the gun range to shoot the new Ruger 10/22 I bought, but the wind decided to blow, so I went out to the farm and piddled around the shop for a few hours. Got the new manifold for the 1940 Farmall A painted, after it dries good I’m going to take it to a friend that has a big oven for powder coating and have him heat cure the paint, then I can get it installed on the tractor. Then proceeded to disassemble the water pump of the 41 M so I can take all the pieces with me to work in the morning and give them a good bath in the parts washer

Daylight pics...

If you go the mechanical route, these are the best at stripping paint in my experience and little to no metal damage

That is a FINE looking tractor!! Great job.

I tried using CitriStrip on three different kinds of paint last night and had excellent results with two of them. Here's a pulley from a WH mower deck. I applied stripper to it and placed it in a plastic bag: Here's how the pulley looked this morning when removed from the plastic bag. All of the paint wrinkled up nicely: I simply brushed off the stripper and wrinkled paint, gave it a quick wash with mineral spirits to remove any residue, let it dry, and primed it: I applied the stripper on a broken piece of painted cast aluminum from a chainsaw and placed it in a plastic bag: In the morning, the paint had not wrinkled, but it was so soft that it came off in seconds with a plastic-bristled brush. I then gave it a quick wipe down with mineral spirits: I didn't have such good luck with this WH rim. I applied the stripper to a small area and covered it with polyethylene. In the morning, the top layer of paint had softened to the point that it could be scraped off, but the stripper had no apparent effect on the underlying primer, which I suspect is a 2K epoxy primer, and it's possible that the top coat might be a 2K paint, which is often used on rims. The rim paint might respond better to other, more potent strippers, but I think I'll bead blast it instead.

Not to be picayune, but the part referred to here is the Parking PAWL. There are two interchangeable types---cast and prefab. the prefab is one piece whereas the cast is a 3-part setup--- (Pawl, shaft, roll-pin) Either one will get ground away little by little when the parking Brake lever is engaged. So, NEVER engage the parking brake when in motion. Anyway---here are the two styles. Yours appears to be the 'pre-fab' which can be 'welded up' to original shape...or a new one MAY be available.

Man, does that bring back some memories of how one of my boys looked, after I happen to fall asleep while he was eating spaghetti. The wife was at work, and I was done with my day at work. He was covered, in his hair, all over his face and the front of him, the highchair, and the floor. He had the biggest smile on his face; he was having a grand old time. The wife was used to calling me because she knew I had the tendency to fall asleep while I was waiting for him to eat. She called and all I could say was I have to go; I've got a bit of a mess to clean up. Just one of those moments I'll cherish for as long as I live.

In Wheel Horse lingo the name SPECIAL can be loosely defined as "We couldn't get enough Kohler engines so we used a B&S or Tecumseh" 1968 had the 500 Special which was a Commando 6 without the Kohler and some fancy racing stripes. 1971 saw the 800 Special which was a Raider with a B&S 8 HP engine. 1974 was the year of the A-90 Special which was a Ranger with a B&S engine. 1980 brought us the 1100 Special, a C-105 with an 11 HP B&S engine.

Is that a stock muffler or one of them " Prince Albert" exhaust systems used "up nort?"

Cooking on the car (or a boat) while traveling is the original multitasking. When I was in the Navy we used the steam condensate return lines to heat foil wrapped leftovers all the time. if you want to learn more than Model A cooking check out this book. Right!!! All I could think of is fingers missing! Could be dangerous although we haven't seen @Pullstart shed any blood lately.

Right!!! All I could think of is fingers missing!

Sometimes you can find the occasional K141/ 161 air cleaner. They are very much like the K90/ 91 in size. I've also used a MX filter but I had to make an adapter for it. This machine will never be a mower again so this worked very well adding a K181 on a Lawn Ranger.

Maybe "Trio Thursday"? Got the Vanguard boys out today for some air during lunch. Had to bring out my son's Ranger too. Bonus pic...

Can you say repower? Sure I knew you could...

Gave this a second look today. Just not a Tecky guy, shame WH seat has a hole ate in it.

Rustoleum make what they call Aircraft Remover. I've had a partial spray can on the shelf for many years. I ran across it a while back and thought I'd try it again figuring it wouldn't spray after all these years. It did. I forgot how nasty it is. Even the mist will feel like acid on your skin. Yup, first hand info. Give it a few minutes and the paint will basically drop off. It's still sold but, like lynnmor said, it's probably watered down now. I've tried about every stripper out there and haven't found anything close.

Progress! Just published the latest video with some updates. Engine is in. Wiring is complete, just needs tidied up a bit. Fuel system is hooked up, and it moves under its own power again. https://youtu.be/995aGBr6zXU?si=7TgldpkqWGeHmArx

He does have another pair of front tires and rims that will come with the tractor but he doesn’t know if they are the correct size for this model.

Post away!!

... after 4 beers !!

I guess I'll be cracking the transaxle as well. Yee-haw. Just a forum etiquette check. It's totally cool for me to post all steps of working on this? There's a ton of awesome documentation here, but I don't always catch everything. I really appreciate y'all looking over my shoulder.

Pushing it away, pulling it back. Moving those muscles!

The switch you have purchased is intended to operate with a solenoid. It is only rated at 30 amps and your starter will draw about 50 amps. Do you have a solenoid?

My feed truck and our good pickup both have Interstate batteries in them, but only because of convenience, as we sell Interstate at the shop where I work and I didn't want to make a 60 mile round trip to buy anything else. Both of the other pickups and all of the tractors have the cheap batteries from Atwoods (a farm store we have here similar to Tractor Supply), can't remember the brand name off the top of my head but I know they're cheap. The group 65s for my 6.0 F350 were right at $100 each, and oddly enough I've had better luck with them than I have the Interstates we sell at work.

I love that show, but I can't get the kids to watch it for the life of me. Until very recently they have written off anything in black and white simply for not being in color. Last Saturday they were out helping the wife lay the new footer for their tree house while I was in working on other things. Its rare I get the TV to myself, so I had the Stooges on, and they came in around 7 started watching and actually liked it.

Could be the previous owner had difficulty mounting the tractor and needed to step up with both feet to do so. I know that following my stroke it is a bit more difficult getting onto the seat.

Best guess may be to prevent feetses damage from the deck??

I just picked this up and I after I power washed it I can't decide if I should paint it or clear coat it the way it is. I have a few days waiting on electrical and fuel parts for it so I need to decide.

Your grandfather was correct. Modern science is learning more and more every year and we now know that type of diet is doing no one any favors. 🙄

I've had good results with CitriStrip gel on various items. As @oliver2-44 mentioned, wrapping the stripper in a poly sheet keeps the gel wet and working for a long time. Sometimes a second application is needed. You could buy a small bottle and test it on a small area to see how it works. Results will vary with the type of paint. It seems to work well on 1K single-component paints, but 2K (two-component) paints are more chemical resistant.

Was the original paint remover prior to the maroon paint? Since it's newer paint I would expect some of the newer strippers like Citistrip to work OK. Wrapping tightly in thin plastic does help, it slows the evaporation so the product works on the paint longer. The "Aircraft Stripper does an excellent job, but it is pricy. Since it is newer paint, try wiping it with a very wet rag of lacquer thinner, it just might wrinkle right up.

In short... don't paint.. yet. If you really can't decide, wait a year. Several points to consider: It's only original ONCE. It isn't like these are super valuable vehicles or pieces of great art but they ARE a part of our history. Here in our Herd we have both fully restored and original "work clothes" tractors. For a looooonng time I've been a "fresh paint" person. So has my S/O Trina. Over the years we've done half a dozen full frame off restorations and several mechanical only builds where we painted only what was necessary. We've both come around to appreciate both types. TIME is going to be a HUGE consideration for you. In order to properly paint a whole tractor you'll need to partially disassemble. Even a "quick repaint" takes many hours to accomplish properly. "Patina" is rust. Period. Rust needs to be stopped. You're already headed the right direction there. We were pleasantly surprised to see how much positive difference wet sanding alone makes. DO wet sand it now. That'll be another positive step because it needs to be done either way. The top coat is your option. At the recommendation of the folks here on Redsquare we've tried Flood Penetrol. Excellent results. IMHO..... wait a year. Let your mind wrap around what you're desires are for the tractor and the amount of work it takes. Maybe you'll get totally enamored with the "work clothes" look. Maybe you'll be completely sick of it by then...

Based on the non functioning aspects of the thing, I.e. no sealing faces or rings, bolts with no threads etc it had to be a decorative item. It did look very much like the Hamilton Standard propeller hub on WW2 warplanes.

Mounted the hood. Paint will need buffing more once it's fully cured but at least the top looks decent. Of course the plastic tank I had planned to use won't let the hood latch engage. Turns out the gas cap sits about 1/16 higher than the underside of the hood. I thought this hood was basically identical to the newer C-series hoods, but something is different. I think the holes at the sides for the latch are 1/4 higher. I'll have to measure the Bronco and compare... So I'll use a smaller 1 gallon steel tank. It's plenty of fuel for this engine. And it lets me shut the hood.

Today I did something I’ve been meaning to do for years. Take the transmission and hydraulic system out of this 416-H. I took out the wiring harness and might save the spindles and steering wheel. This tractor was given to me and was already in rough condition. I lent it to a buddy to use around his farm. He is not known for taking good care of his equipment, so that’s why I let him use this particular tractor. Well after a few years of use he called me and said it’s making a funny noise. I went there and listened to it, it was knocking like crazy. Checking the oil I found none on the stick. I was not surprised or mad because I knew this could happen with this guy. Luckily the transmission oil was full so I drove it around and it worked fine. I brought it back home a few months later and it sat in my back yard for a few more years. So I decided today was the day to finally do this and junk the rest. While I was working on it my granddaughter decided that she wanted to clean and work on her tractor too! I was absolutely thrilled to have her in the garage with me! ❤️

I will say this: If you’re looking for a tractor that you can use as a loader and mow grass with a Wheel Horse is not your best bet. Unless you by two!! Once the loader is mounted on the tractor it’s pretty much committed to the tractor. Taking it off to mount the deck will be a very time consuming process and not just something you just easily switch back and forth. If that’s what you’re looking to do I’d look at a newer small JD or Kabota. Something with 4wd and power steering. Some of those tractors allow you to have both the loader and the deck mounted at the same time.

THAT PART'S TRUE!!!

After all it has a Wheel Horse sticker on it, that has to be worth a $ 1,000. Everybody knows we are all crazy.

You can only case harden cold rolled steel, but that isn't the best option for your part. You should have purchased an alloy steel and hardened it. One option