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Last year I purchased this Simplicity 5212 for $40. Someone swapped in a 18HP Briggs. Came with 4 different mower decks and only the 36” was in good shape to actually use. The others were either rotted, seized or both. Would only run half choked and battery wouldn’t charge. I replaced the chinesium carb with and oem carb and it ran perfect. Then swapped out the regulator and the charging system came back around. Then I found out Allis owned and sold Simplicity in 83. This tractor is an 87 but I decided I wanted to make a replica.

Mounted up these cast weights I bought last year. Seemed heavier than all my usual 50 pounders, turns out they’re 70 pounds apiece! Came with hardware that’ll need an inch or so cut off.

It's a bit late now but I just plug the PTO housing from the outer side and fill it with degreaser. I'll leave it sit a day or 3 rotating the bearings now and then. A good flushing, repacking, seals and you're good to go.

416 Anniversary complete except for final setup of carb and hydro, and hood which will be completed next summer. Wife took this picture. She laughed at me taking my shoes off to sit on the tractor.

@Achto and I have a buddy who does Simplecities/Allis. Tried to turn him from the dark side many times but no luck so we just tell everybody at shows we don't know him. Actually does have some nice vintage B's tho.

Steve nailed it. Coil gets hot and opens up ... cools down and restarts. Common issue with that coil tucked down in the heat. Check the coil for cracked plastic a dead giveaway. Having five Onans I got tired of it and remounted the coil in open air.

Tie rod lock nuts installed on both ends and tie rod jamb juts firmly tightened. Front end complete.

I was looking to get into vintage farm tractors last year when I sold my F150 and using that profit to do it. Growing up my grandfather had a 49 and 51 Farmall H. I was mainly looking at AC WD45s and the smaller D series tractors. Ended up rethinking that plan after my deployment and bought 2 snowmobiles instead, the 73 WH and WH snowblower attachment. Happier with this decision since it was much cheaper and easier to store in my small barn than a farm tractor and everything I wanted for it lol. Someday I’ll follow through with that plan though.

I wrassaled the 48" deck i picked up last weekend out of my truck, strapped on the 2 wheel hand cart and wheeled it through the trails that I cut in the snow with the tiny Toro two stroke snow blower to the tractor shed. That will let Morgan, the 14-8; and Clyde, the C-195 make friends with it while it is waiting for a refresh sometime this spring.

Getting ready to do front end alignment. I have two straight edges that are 4' long and some pieces of Teflon. Disregard the yard sticks as they were not used. Tires all set at 12 PSI and front wheels sitting on Teflon for east of movement. Straight edges sat on jack stands half way up front wheels. Steering wheel was set straight. Tape measures laid on top of straight edges with the hook end clamped on holding them tight to the edge just to hold them in place so they don't move. We have 1/4"" toe in but the manual calls for 1/8". Also the straight edge is even with the outside of the Left rear tire and is out slightly from the Right rear tire. I therefor shortened the Right side tie rod by one turn and bolted it back on tight. Alignment complete straight edge is in line with outer edge of rear tire on both sides. Alignment complete and we now have 1/8" toe in. With 1/8" toe in and straight edge aligned evenly to both rear tires means the steering wheel should sit straight while driving and the steering should have at least a little return to center.

At least its better than the green stuff

That area on the plow frame needs to be lubricated regularly. Just consider all the moisture from the snow that gets in there then melts and causes rust. I PM that plow every fall when I put it together. Meaning I take the plow assay of the tractor for summer use. Just a regular maintenance like he would on the engine and the rest of the tractor. When you get everything in a good running order just follow a regular maintenance for summer use and winter use. Enjoy the project and most important just take your time. Rushing never helps. I’ve been there too many times.

I would appreciate it if you don't show those welds anymore. ...Reminds me just how much my welds look like ostrich crap.

My wife's uncle built a replica of the Travel Air Mystery Ship - a 1930's racing plane. The original is hanging in the Chicago Museum of Science and Industry, her uncle's plane is currently displayed in the Kalamazoo Air Zoo museum. Unfortunately, he died before he could fly it. First time I met him was at the Weyland airport in Michigan. He was in his hanger 'flying' his Mystery Ship. At that time it was the bare steel tubing fuselage frame sitting on a pair of small steel drums, and he was in the 'cockpit' made up of a properly placed lawn chair, with a piece of broomstick as the control column. He was making the engine sounds by blowing a prolonged 'rasberry'.

yup, just the clamp. Threaded pipe nipple in the head to a 45 to a cut off pipe and clamped. I have mine aimed straight up. It’s been that way for 100’s of hours of use with no issues. I keep wanting to cut that bracket off, but it’s been a few years and at this point, I’m assuming I’ll never get around to it

I found that the mold seams or colored lines run true when spun so I could use those for measuring. May not happen in all cases, but it worked for me with Kenda tires. I have turn tables for easy movement and a spreader bar to take out any slack in the spindles. I do my own wheel alignments on cars if they will accept my ancient Alemite equipment.

Here ya go.

8 inch carriage bolts were perfect for my 55 lb Sears weights. Now to find round Wheel Horse decals.

Glad to see that I am not the only one with a horse of a different color in my herd.

65https://www.google.com/search?q=5%2F16+%2C+bolts&sca_esv=591223588&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&sxsrf=AM9HkKlkluQv4FiVEUIqv8UK3Y5tM9jiyg%3A17026520821vssid=uvpv-713&ip=1 often refer to attachment swing lever connections , the upper end smooth , unthreaded area , is what you want to enhance movement ease , use flat washers on either side , to firm up smooth easy lubricated connection , hold that setting with an elastic lock nut . especially good , application on the plow squeeze lever set up . lets you dial in a perfect swing . eliminate , any play in the squeeze lever , connection wire , small channel locks , really snugs up the end mounting holes , lube , verify as you set it up . only a suggestion , Pete

True

Not pretty, but this is what I have had on my 314 for the past few years. Its cheap off the jungle site, works/sounds fine

That's a factory setup. Shortly after that they added another retaining ring and eliminated the spring and a couple other parts. I don't know exactly when. I think they eliminated all 5 of those parts on the end of the crankshaft (103, 104x2, 106 & 107)

Yep, I had picked up a rusted short frame for scrap price. The pin and sector was permanently rust welded. For a year I soaked it, beat on it, and used BF pipe wrenches but could not get the bolt or pin to move. Finally I used it to mount my front tiller. No need for it to turn for the tiller.

What exactly is wrong with the transmission that it needs to be rebuilt? Generally a good flushing if it has any signs of water in the oil, or perhaps some external seals that need to be replaced will do the job. When draining the oil make sure you safely lift the front of the tractor at least a foot off the ground to get the oil over the internal hump in the transmission.They are pretty bulletproof. If the axle seals need to be replaced start soaking the hubs with a penetrating oil now so they can be removed.

Or the " extending contracts of coaches" Speaking of State parks. I am fortunate enough to live within 15 miles of 4 beautiful state parks in the Finger Lakes where I can walk my dog. The upkeep on all this land must be tremendous. 1 park has a golf course. Another park has a acres of fall hunting area 2 parks have large camping area's and there are also 2 large marina's. I can have free access weekdays during camping season and unlimited access the rest of the year. I gladly pay my share.

Heck... I'd get it just for wall art!

Honestly have to say I’ve never seen one of those before! I didn’t have a response earlier when Eric mentioned me because I’d never seen one like that. @WHX?? I have seen something like this that was called a Litter Whisk, is that the same thing?

It's about the New Holland and XI series WH

Thank you! Allis had their 616 hydro tractor which was the same chassis and body as this 5212. The decals are repops for the 616 so the project came around almost perfect lol.

My blade has a steel rod/wire that angles the blade. I do not think it has a cable. I have not used it in a few years but I do not remember a cable. I will look tomorrow.

I like the idea!

Yep you beat me too it Coach. Time to change subject ... How bout dem Bears @stevasaurus

Reminder to keep politics out (I see it coming) 🫤

Anything for sale here would be in the classified sections.

Needed 2” full thread, not available at stores but McMaster Carr had em and shipped me 10. Star washers?? Not sure the were needed but I installed em anyway. They were cheap, unlike the bolts. And the spacers, they were sitting on a guys table for sale at a tractor show and my son grabbed em. No brand name on them that I could find.

That discription sounds like a bad coil. I had one on my 857 that did exactly that. It's like the coil heats up, doesn't work and needs to cool off to start again.

@JoeM it’s always refreshing to see clean beads!

On mine Ed? They might have been on that tractor. Same ones I got Bob ... flea bay for less than 25 shipped. The studs are 1/2" tho. Shoulda got another pair right away can't find them now. Really a nice lookin setup there Bob

My sons bought small spacers for his tractor, last night I installed one side. Had to remove the hub set screw and replace with a 1/4” shorter one so that the two bolts heads wouldn’t hit. The 7/16 x 20 x 2” bolts can be a pain to find.

@CD Long Jr this plow hardware referral is a base line for any plow set up , literally transforms , total function , basically insuring solid / smooth movement . did at each stage , been in use for years , sorry about any mix up I might have caused . typically doing a test function , run , thats where you find the problems , like a roller stool , so I can scoot around , and try , test try . do a lot of that , start out with a train wreck , end up with a vault door , solid . smooth . easy . looking at your set up is exactly what I started with , also added threaded push / pull rods , heim joints , move assurance is guaranteed. help you if I can , pete

Installed weights, mounted blade after the hydraulic lift decided to work. Pin that unlocks the blade to angle is frozen. Can I pry up the cap on top of the blade for access to the pin? Engine idled down & stalled. Wasn't out of gas, but I filled her up anyway. Now she won't restart? Restarted after 30 minutes. Plowed about 10 minutes. Engine started spurting, then died again & won't restart again. The coil is not bolted down? Both bolts are missing. Anyone know the size? I have plowed and died 3 times. Each time I wait 30 minutes and she's fired up, I plow 10-15 minutes, she dies. I wait 30 minutes she starts, we plow, she dies. I really like the tractor, but this diein' & waitin' cramp's gotta get fixed. Gas flow isn't the problem. I have a full stream when disconnected from the 2nd fuel filter closest to the carb. I will loosen the as cap next go round.

some winters i have not used my chains and relied on the turfs - this year installed the chains - - there are so many variables for what works best for each situation we each have to plow or blow? What's type and volume of snow - driveway conditions etc -- but traction to me has always been more important than weight .

Agreed. For a threaded-hole situation like that, I would usually (as you mentioned) countersink the hole a bit to provide clearance for the little radius (fillet) between the underside of the bolt head and the bolt shank. Of course a washer would also do the trick.

Looks like a lock washer to me.

Rear wheels ready to be installed. Wheels were previously painted and had new tires installed. Rear wheel lug nuts ready to install. These are chrome open end 7/16-20 NF. GM used this size for years so they are not too hard to find. Tractor ready for rear wheels to be installed. Tractor lifted by rear receiver hitch then jack stands and bar through hitch shaft boss removed. This bar cannot be removed after the wheels are installed. Left rear wheel installed and lug nuts snugged. Right rear wheel installed and lug nuts snugged. Rear wheel clearance checked on both sides. I was a little worried because I installed 23x10.5-12 tires instead of the stock size of 23x9.5-12 mainly because the larger size is more readily available. Clearance is fine. Rear wheels installed and tractor on the ground for the first time. Rear wheel lug nuts torqued to 50 ft/lb after setting parking brake to hold tractor in place.

Never heard of one of these before. Is that kind of like a grass dethatcher sort of situation?

@pfrederi or @c-series don ?