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Thank you all ! This is the first chance I've had to check in on my family . 61 years old & still working too much, but it keeps me going & the 's happy too. You guys are the best!

My sons bought small spacers for his tractor, last night I installed one side. Had to remove the hub set screw and replace with a 1/4” shorter one so that the two bolts heads wouldn’t hit. The 7/16 x 20 x 2” bolts can be a pain to find.

Once I out the chains on the 23-10.50's on my Reborn B-80 I felt there should be a little more clearance. I moved the hubs out a bit to get by but I don't like it like that. Found these on Ebay for pretty cheap and tried them out on the hubs I just saved. I was just able to get a socket the stock lug bolts to mount them.

Left that wardrobe for Pullstart... Mine just fit with the square heads. Mighta had to grind a smidge off the stud head. All depends on the hardware store to find them. I lucked out and found one that had them in all lengths but yes not full threads past 1 1/2. What's your theory with the star washers? I used thick flat washers to get them to seat flush. I like those spacers Mike ... source? Yes as Boy said looks like you might have a brake shaft seal issue there??

Me to as often as I can. I identify as an Udder Tugger. And I do not have bovines.

Oh man... Please... no photos... Don't encourage the local wildlife...

Finally the tractor is 100% usable but not 100% done so there will be more to come. Right now it’s being used as the snowplow when I don’t have enough snow to use the 120 with the blower. It’s gonna get all the main sheet metal pulled in the spring and going to get just a quick scuff and shoot and new decals hence the “Budget Resto”. Don’t want it to be too nice that I’m afraid to use it lol. Then the 120 will be next on the docket but that’s just paint.

So I bought this tractor roughly three weeks ago. Not running and trans completely locked. Getting it on the trailer was a lot of fun. Got it home, pushed it in the barn and figured I wasn’t going to get anywhere with it for a little while. Well one night I randomly decided I was gonna pull the carb and clean it. Brought it to work and took it apart. None of the gaskets tore but I did find basically sand or god knows what in the bowl. Threw it in the ultrasonic for a few hours, didn’t have any new gaskets at the time so I figured just to find out if it would run I just slapped the carb back together with the old gaskets and threw it back on the engine. Ran new fuel line and filter. Put a small amount of gas in the tank and it finally fired, took a little to fill the bowl and re-prime the pump.

The thick flats can be hard to find too. Really no need for locks other than a spacer. Once the nut is on they ain't going nowhere. If one can find the thicks in 3/8 they work great for head bolts.

Take it easy on Jim, you remember where he's from don't you ?

Honestly, that’s just a waste of money compared to 87. The ethanol content is the same, and the low compression of these small engines does not require the octane levels. Remember octane does not build power, it prevents pre-detonation.

Looks like he needs to change out his brake drum seal.

I don't think Colossus will fit on that table!

I know i bought some better heim joints also. those factory one are not real smooth. I fixed a couple cam plates and eccentrics on xi machines. to remove/repair the plate the hydro rear needs to be out of the machine. A good time to look and touch up a bit. I hit the eccentric with a dab of weld too.

Most likely dried ethanol crap. W e recommend using ethanol free gas. I love my ultrasonic.

Depends upon what you got planned to run off PTO. Personally I very seldom, if any ever had to replace the long needle bearings. Mainly the seal and thrust bearing if it feels rough or sloppy. Seal fer sure. Clean & re-grease is the main thing. It's amazing how long they (thrust bearing) last but if your gonna mow hard yes replace it. Yes 80/90 in tranny.

Do not order anything until the engine is torn down and crank. And cylinder bore is measured.

I'm not a slob and oil the prefilter and no mess. I also have a spare for each size. Take out the dirty, oil up a clean one and put it in. Clean up the old one and put it in the cabinet after it dries for the next time

In my mind, better in the filter and filter housing than the engine. Easier to clean a little mess than to rebuild an engine.

In reverse ... Guy was asking for help the other day on slow reverse on a hydro. and @Racinbob commented that horses are not supposed to go fast in reverse. Designed that way for safety reasons I suspect. Some new machines including late model Toro verticals had a key switch under the seat with a light on the dash for reverse operation when the blades were spinning. So this 520 FEL I have was always a slug in reverse. Didn't matter how the motion linkage (Matt's pedal kit) was adjusted. Seemed like it took a hour to back away from the gravel pile. The other three 520's in my herd have this issue as well but not as severe and not as aggravating as they are all snow machines and don't see a lot of reverse time it seems. Since it was in the shop for other work & maintenance something was gonna be done about it. Started by marking the full forward and full reverse positions of the motion lever on top of the hydro. To get the control plate to move the lever to go to full forward was obtainable but only allowed a small amount of lever travel in reverse. The problem is the eccentric cam would bottom out in the control plate before the lever reached it's max reverse limit. Simple enough to elongate the reverse slot. Took a little more than 1/8" out was all that was needed. The motion lever now hits it's stops in both directions & a full cleaning & lubrication of all linkage makes for a very smooth pedal greasy Pete would be proud of.

What he said. See if you still have spark when it dies.

That discription sounds like a bad coil. I had one on my 857 that did exactly that. It's like the coil heats up, doesn't work and needs to cool off to start again.

Frozen pin... penetrating oil... whack it with a hammer... repeat... when free... copious amounts of oil then red tacky grease everything in the swing area...

Engine stalling, loosen the gas cap, the vent may be plugged creating a vacuum the fuel pump can't over come. after it sits vacuum disappears.

Pretty close. They were $16 but with tax and shipping $25 and a few pennies. I'm sure they are out there but I've never come across spacers with 7/16" studs. I'm thinking the lock washers are more for getting around that little taper on the bolt. I've countersank them in the past.

On mine Ed? They might have been on that tractor. Same ones I got Bob ... flea bay for less than 25 shipped. The studs are 1/2" tho. Shoulda got another pair right away can't find them now. Really a nice lookin setup there Bob

Looks like a lock washer to me.

I put studs on all of my tractors. Best mod ever. I got a box of 25 off of ebay a while back. 7/16x20 Tap bolts. I need to order some more for my last project.

Front hitch installed. Receiver slid into front hitch then front end lifted off of jack stands. Jack stands and bar through mid tach removed. Tractor sitting on all four wheels.

Rear wheels ready to be installed. Wheels were previously painted and had new tires installed. Rear wheel lug nuts ready to install. These are chrome open end 7/16-20 NF. GM used this size for years so they are not too hard to find. Tractor ready for rear wheels to be installed. Tractor lifted by rear receiver hitch then jack stands and bar through hitch shaft boss removed. This bar cannot be removed after the wheels are installed. Left rear wheel installed and lug nuts snugged. Right rear wheel installed and lug nuts snugged. Rear wheel clearance checked on both sides. I was a little worried because I installed 23x10.5-12 tires instead of the stock size of 23x9.5-12 mainly because the larger size is more readily available. Clearance is fine. Rear wheels installed and tractor on the ground for the first time. Rear wheel lug nuts torqued to 50 ft/lb after setting parking brake to hold tractor in place.

No need to buy a .010 over Piston when you really need a .030 over when the cylinder wall finally cleans up. Ditto for the Connecting Rod. And the Machine Shop needs those parts in hand first after measuring, but before removing metal....

Perfect thank you! I will potentially be running my 42” mower. I will mostly be using the Allis knock off to mow since that’s really all I can do with it. My 120 will eventually run a tiller and it runs the blower in the winter. This will get busted out every once in a while to mow just to scratch the WH itch. Otherwise it’s just for plowing snow or plowing a garden when I get a Brinly plow.

Yes going for early 20th century. I'm going for three roof lines. The front "office" flat, the middle rounded with exposed brick, and the "addition" peaked roof with stucco type covering over brick and some brick exposed where stucco has fallen off. To color the brick, I have three colors of "brickish" colored paint. I dab a little on a small brush and pretty much paint each brick. Below is a picture I found on computer that gave me the inspiration of tracks between builds and the walkway. I'm planning on covered the sidewalk/loading dock. Haven't given much thought about the building across the tracks--maybe rusty metal. Haven't thought about a water tower. I've got one that is in memory of my brother on another part of the track. I used his initials as the name of the water district and his ham radio call sign for the telephone number. My layout has family members owning businesses or headstones in the graveyard. Behind these building along the back of the layout I've got an are about 10" wide by a couple of feet long that I'd like to make and industry with smoke stacks, pipes running between buildings but that will be another winter project for another year. I'm beginning to collect different items that I can use for the piping and smoke stacks--straws, packaging materials whatever I can find that may fit the diorama.

Nothing wrong with that. Some of my favorite tractors were exactly the same.

You will need 2 quarts. Not that it will take that to fill it - put in 1-1/2 and read the dipstick. Top Off to suit. A drinking straw down alongside the funnel will vent it as you pour if using the dipstick tube to fill...

I do inspect nipples regularly. Only had the dash light come on one time on a 520H. I pulled the air filter and at first glance it appeared almost new. Putting a bright light inside showed it was rather clogged. That tells me that the oiled pre-filter was doing a super job and closer inspection of the air filter is necessary, the 20 HP engine uses enough gas without restricting the air intake. Maybe that is part of the reason so many claim that the Onans are gas hogs.

Thank you that was last years project. It’s a Simplicity 5212 that I did as an Allis look-a-like. Previous owner swapped in an 18hp Briggs. Im not sure if it was water or just stuck in gear. The second I let the clutch out it moved so I’m assuming it was just stuck. Regardless I will be doing a drain and flush.

Frozen water in it? Been there done that. Time to drain and flush. Nice Allis ther ...

Not as bad as oil filters ... Gotta pull the trigger on the right ones. Wadda you go to the Pullstart school of just ain't right?? Not a squeaky filter in the house ... No never supposed to blow out air filters except for maybe the shop vac. Guys to to blow out furnace air filters but all that does is loosen it up to get sucked through, Little known fact ... a filter catches smaller particles the dirtier it gets. The holes air must pass through get smaller and smaller till it won't pass air at all. That's when that dash light won't come on because the nipple broke off the back of the sensor ...

Next was the blade angle lever. Because this doesn’t have the separate clutch and brake pedal like my 77 C120, the different foot board wouldn’t allow me to pull handle past the center position. Cut a small notch and now the lever has full range of motion.

Got it running then it was time for the trans. Had no idea what condition it was in just that it wouldn’t roll and the shifter was in neutral. While running I put it in reverse and let the clutch out and it went backwards. I then ran it through all the gear and hi-lo range and it worked perfectly. I decided it was a good time to throw the plow on even though the handle wouldn’t lock in the up position. After days of juicing the handle down the button still wouldn’t pop up on its own. Took the handle and rock shaft out and found the lock block to be cockeyed in its track causing it to jam. Separated it from the button rod and put a small bend in the rod to match the contour of the handle and it worked perfectly.

I use them and use the foam filter treatment I used to use on my dirt bike air filter. That stuff works great and doesn't make a mess in the air cleaner housing

I always do. The amount of crap it catches is proof positive that it works. Never any residual in the housing... I guess I have to ask why wouldn't you? So what if it's a bit messy. Am i missing something?

I never do for the same reason.

Who actually does this? I know what the book says but when you do it it seems to make a mess of the air box collecting more dirt no matter how much you squeeze the excess out.

Unless they have both internal and external teeth it appears they aren't locking anything.

I follow the instructions on the label so the fine dust gets trapped. After oiling the foam work it in, then remove the excess by repeatedly squeezing the foam with paper towels layered in. With no oil you will not trap anything but the large particles, the paper filters are getting expensive and blowing tiny holes in them with compressed air is not a wise move.

By the time you rounded up the wheels, ratchet gears if needed basket and frame, and any other parts it is missing you would be better buying a new one.

Yeah for where I live, a few days is a stretch. I'm already done with this stuff. I'll take brown winter grass any day. It's pretty when it snows, but a day or two is enough!