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Finally got the 953 mostly done. Been a long one but worth it. Still have some small issues and details to get sorted out but 98% complete

No flip-flops…seems fine to me

In my opinion that is the first entry for the 2027 Red Square calendar. @ebinmaine, let BBT know that we have the Cover photo already submitter.

Get an inline 1/4 marine primer bulb. This is a common issue with any of these tractors with the fuel tank under the seat. 2-3 squishes before before starting and it'll likely start on the first couple rotations. Saves your starter, saves your battery, does wonders for your sanity...

80-90 gear oil. I use Lucas, but any will do.

And yet, no proof in a picture.....

Well finally today I got around to working on the 417. First I drained all the old gas out and replaced the fuel filter. Then took the carb off and cleaned it. And once the system primed it fired right up! I drove it around for a little while to get the oil nice and hot and changed that. I also greased it and adjusted the motion control cam plate. I gave it a quick bath and degreasing. I think when I washed it even though I was careful I got some water in the points so I got no spark now. But tommorow I’ll pop the points cover off then give them a quick cleaning. IMG_2222.mov

It’s a good day for a caption this, or better yet how many violations can you find?

As an individual who still has all his proper body parts, I see nothing wrong here.

A worn clutch face won't bog the engine down. Just for the heck of it, check your seat switch. It's designed to shut the engine down if you try to engage the PTO while not in the seat. Sounds like the switch thinks you're not in the seat.

Just to add on to @ebinmaine here... The arrow is pointing to the oil fill/level check port used on Unidrives before dipsticks came into use and there was an overlap for a few years before it was removed from the casting. With the plug out, oil should be just about to overflow out when full. Oil level at rest inside does not reach into the axle housing but in motion, oil finds its way through the inner axle bearings and to the outer bearings behind the seals. You might be surprised how close to the bottom of the case the internal gears are, i.e. the lowest edges are well submerged in the oil at rest, and they are very good at flinging oil all over the place in there

The image Mr. Richard quoted above… I thought it was the massivest stack yet for a split second!

For a couple more bucks you could buy a whole parts tractor.

Who all gets their Horses out in a Parade? I recruit local teenagers and neighbors to drive some and they have so much fun. (It’s also good for when I am out making so much noise working on them that neighbors are more forgiving, lol) plus it gets them out for a good exercising.

Hi All, I was rockin' an old TroytBilt, 2001 V0809H. A friend bought a house near me and it was sitting in the yard with four flats and weeds growing up around it. He's not a guy who mows his own and was going to junk it, but asked if I wanted the tractor. I told him, "If I can turn the engine, I'll take it." That was in 2014, and I kept that mower going with spit and baling wire ever since. All good things come to an end, and it was intermittent PTO issues that finally took it down. Possibly mowing high-ish fields helped. When that electric PTO got warm, it wasn't worth a damn. Changed it, same issue. So I was looking around on CL & FB Market, but everything I saw was big box crap. I wasn't looking for cheap. I wanted a mower that would last the rest of my life. I got bit by the Wheel Horse bug! Picked up a 1993 314-8 in great shape a couple of weeks ago. It looks like it was garaged and has no rust, other than a bit on the deck, probably from mowing wet grass. I think the belts and spark plug, and the oil too, were original. Tranny oil must have gotten water in it, though. Chocolate milk foam. I go into anything like this knowing I'll have to spend a bit to bring things up to spec. My budget was $500. I changed all of the above, including new rear tires which had plenty of tread, but would only hold air for 36 hours. New blades should arrive any day. I moved the seat back and up to accommodate my long legs. This tractor is a beast in the field. All good until I ran into a weird PTO clutch issue. I need advice and will make a separate post about it. I love this tractor and enjoy reading what other members write. Glad this forum is here. Thanks to the webmasters!

Stinky Cowboy boots with Jorts!

May 27, 1949, unemployed 22-year-old model-actress Marilyn Monroe receives $50 for posing nude for a Los Angeles photographer against a red velvet backdrop. The picture will go on to become the most famous calendar photo in history and the principal attraction in the first issue of Playboy magazine. While many people would profit from the photo, Monroe never received more than the original $50.

What's that string hanging out of the back of his battery circular saw?!?!

Me too

Here's mine:

Here ya go, the family friendly version.

If both the c100 and the c160 are the same type of transmission, then yes. That's quite a high price. You probably would be a lot better off to place an ad in our classifieds. For that amount of money, I would personally be elated to send you one.

I'm guilty of old oil in my transmission as well - it has been a good 6 or 7 years, maybe more. Still clean. A change is on my to do list sometime this summer. But, I've run across a couple of articles about old oil. Seems that the additive packages (things to improve extreme pressure performance, viscosity additives, etc) in the oil have a shelf life. After a period of time, the additives don't remain blended with the oil properly. I'm going to say that a change of transmission oil every couple three years would be a good idea.

@stevebo I don’t need those mounted 953 wheels and tires, but I feel like I do. Never seen any like that in 15”. I’ll take ‘em!

The best test I know for a bad starter ground, or any case-grounded piece, is to clamp a jumper cable to the case on one end, and the battery negative on the other. If it starts working, you have a bad ground contact.

I have a few more items to sell. 953/1054 good rims and one bad tire $50 953/1054 rims and tires $75 gear reduction steering set up ( no wheels or spindles $300 pics below

In your other post, you mentioned moving the seat, so this seems likely to me, too. PLEASE don’t fix this by trying to circumvent the seat switch. You seem like you have the skills to come up with a clever and safe solution! On two of our tractors I added seat slides to accommodate the more than 16” height difference between the tallest and shortest operators. The latter are also noticeably less weighty than the former, and when they leaned forward to crank the steering had the engine stop! I switched the switch actuator to a longer plunger with a longer, soft spring and a plunger guide so it works well.

The lower end of the hand railing has no raised stop to help to keep a grip if falling. The width of the railing is excessive - difficult to grip. Looks like the door swings out - the landing is insufficiently short - does not prevent having to do a two step upon entry.

I actually got to meet and shake hands with Joe in the early 70s...He was about 60 then and he was Mr. Coffee. He was big in to philanthropy in the bay area and our hospital illustrator had made some graphics for one of his causes. The illustrator office was next to mine and when Joltin Joe came to get it I got introduced.

Alas, no. A momentary DPDT relay plus a momentary SPDT switch could replace the momentary DPDT toggle switch. But then you’d need two pieces instead of one with more wiring! I only mentioned the relay because in some applications of linear actuators that use very high current, the relay can be sized “big” while the controlling SPDT switch can be sized smaller since it only operates the relay. Unless your actuator is using 50-ish apps at 12vdc, this isn’t a factor for you. As @ri702bill noted, the amperage is important. I suspect your actuator will be in the range of 5-20 amps @12vdc. Lots of switches intended for electronics (as opposed to electricals) have much smaller amp ratings and while they might work initially, will burn out. Here is a heavy duty 20 amp @ 125v item (which could reasonably carry 30 amps at 12 vdc) on the jungle site, for reference. Here is another with an IP67 rating (for moderate moisture and dust resistance).

DO get a switch with an amperage rating more than adequate for the max current the actuator draws.....

Do not think so the oil drain looks like it will be on a frame rail. What spec number engine are you working with. Edit: the pan you have in your hand probably is for Cub Cadet or an tractor with the engine mounted fore and aft not cross wise like wheel horse You need #236265 if engine is Spec # 46219

DOT started requiring the manufacturing date on tires in 1971 with a standard format. Initially, this format was a 3 digit code - first 2 digits were the week of the year, the last digit was the last digit of the year produced. In 2000, DOT specified that the last 2 digits of the year produced instead of only the last digit of the year. Given this information, I'll make another guess that the tire is older than 1971 and using whatever dating system that General was using at the time.

Jolting Joe...Consistently put flowers on her grave.

There are lubrication charts and those pages have been added to this file. Click on the picture and two of the thumbnails that come up are the 1972 lube charts. Click on them to enlarge.

I don't have any pics handy but basically I try to tuck the primer bulb in just before the engine, on the starter side. That's only for the reason of practicality of space combined with ease of access to the bulb.

@Fj40z I'd add to @kpinnc 's post. Be sure to get a GOOD QUALITY primer bulb. We've had the cheap ones fall apart in months. Great way to start a fire. Attwood brand is the choice here.

Technically wasn’t today but this past weekend. Changed the oil and put in a new spark plug and air filter on the 314-8. For the plug I went with the Champion RH-10C. Also picked up new belts for the deck and the mule drive but haven’t put those on yet. Watched a few videos on installing those and I hope they’re as simple to install as they seem. Haven’t pulled the trigger and bought the drive belt yet, seems like that could be a job that might end up leading to much bigger things that I might not be up for quite yet. Bought some new rear deck wheels but going to have to do some research on getting those mounted properly. The new bolts they came with don’t seem quite long enough and tightening the bolts up any at all makes them so tight they won’t spin. Really digging this thing so far though, amazing how smooth the Kohler seems even with 1100 hours. Idles insanely smooth, little hard to start if it’s sat for a few days but man do I love it. Really only downfall for me is I like to mow a little on the high side and it seems like around 3” is about as high as you’ll get.

I get it mainly from my dad @Chevy_59 from working in the garage with him and going on roadtrips

Respect your music knowledge. Stacy's mom has definitely got it going on. I'll let those who wish, look the video up for them selves..

Not much time on a work day but trimmed the left foot rest to clear the front hydro lift hose. I had to do that on another and really don't see a good way around it. Salvaged an exhaust elbow from an M10 I had in the garage. Still looking at exhaust solutions and this gives me another. I've actually been spraying that for 6 months or so and an old 1 1/8" axle fit perfectly in the outlet so a little persuasion broke it loose

Interesting topic. I have used a wood handled framing hammer that my Grandpa used when he made mirror boxes for a local company in the 60-70's. I bought a Kobalt framing hammer with a padded steel handle for my tool box about 5 years ago. Grandpa's is probably a 16 oz and the Kobalt is a little heavier. If I go to build something I grab the old one and throw it in my box with the newer one. One of the things I enjoy doing is re-handling tools so I pick them up at flea markets and yard sales.

Hitch pin is out.

I did for several years... not anymore... IMG_2211.mov IMG_3318.mov IMG_0423.mov

My recently acquired B100 was leaking fluid from the right axle seal. Took the tranny apart today in order to investigate why. Think I may have found the issue. Managed to get the tranny washed out & cleaned up. All ready to put it back together as soon as my parts arrive.

There is a drain plug on the bottom of the transmission to get all the oil out provided you lift the front of the tractor.

I had that same blower on a C-120 and the "Flag and lift rod" worked with a few spacrs. Look around the POs barn. The flag and lift rods are usually standing in a corner.

No Correct. That doesn't even get touched anymore. Drain from the very bottom of the transmission. There will be a plug right near the leg of that hitch, on the bottom. Lift the front of the tractor as much as you safely can while it is draining. That gets the oil over the hump in the bottom of the transmission case. Fluid capacity is 2 quarts. Plain and simple.

@Digger 66 have a regular go over after every usage , engine oil , trans oil , top off tank , 1-2 oz of sta bil fuel storage , other related checks . agree with @SylvanLakeWH on the lucas oil , can verify the climbing charistics , of it , for clean wall flush downs , always clean and clear , also like a fresh shift boot , underside , greased ? so it easily slides over the irregularities of trans , add a large TYE WRAP just above boot happy place , where it wants to stay , mine last for years pete