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January 19, 1883 The first electric lighting system employing overhead wires, built by Thomas Edison, begins service at Roselle, New Jersey.

I decided to add shallow grooves on the steering shaft to retain grease under the welded-on gear. The coiled pin in the steering wheel did not want to budge, so I had to leave the upper end assembled. I had to do some creative fixturing but added five equally spaced shallow (.030 deep) grooves inline with the root of every other tooth of the gear using a ball endmill.

its not mine. (But could be!). I know of the guy with the FEL and he want to sell it. It needs a seat. Ok, what’s it worth? A 93 314H, I didn’t see it run, it was out of gas. But, let’s assume it runs. It’s a Kiki way loader and it’s got non leaking lines. I think the lines are original. The muffler is whole! I mean, lets assume its got oil to be changed, fuel lines and an air filter to be changed. Shoot me all the questions and I’ll try to answer them! I mean, I’ll make sure the loader works!

So, what do you guys think? $2000-2500?? Im gonna try to get it for less than that.

They are limited to what they can do but come in handy for many tasks. Not a big deal to install and remove.

Well I finished the steering wheel mods today. Tomorrow will be reassembly- at least some of it. I raised the steering wheel about 2.5 inches. Might be too much but that's easily fixed if needed. So I decided to support the upper shaft with not one but two bearings. I welded a couple inches of 1 inch steel pipe on both sides of the factory bushing holder. I also placed a needle bearing in the bottom and a regular wheel bearing on top. The bearings are about 4 inches apart, which stiffens the whole column quite a bit. Not sure why the paint buggered up, but it looks good enough. Also added a grease fitting to keep those bearings slicked up. I cut the upper steering shaft and drilled it to accept an extension that was from a Toro Groundsmaster. Then I added the other half of the shaft with about 1.5 inches of separation. That raised the steering wheel the full 2.5 inches above what it was previously. Of course I needed to have a sleeve of some type to make the steering wheel and upper console match up. Luckily I had some aluminum stock left over so I turned a couple down on my lathe and added a setscrew to each. Not perfect, but looks decent. I also replaced the roll pin with a bolt with spacers. I bleeping hate roll pins! The steering is much tighter than it was before with almost no play. What little there is comes from the reduction unit, and it's as snug as I can get it without it binding. Huge improvement!

Well it’s not what I did today, but this past week. Myself and another guy dug the hole for a foundation of a new house. Mostly I push material to the guy in the excavator who bales it out of the hole. Then I finish grade the bottom of the hole with the dozer +/- 2” for the masons. The hole is almost but not finished in the picture, I just snapped it after lunch one day. This is in one of the most expensive zip codes in the country. 1.9 acre lot- 7 million dollars. Spec house that will probably list for around 23 million! This whole area used to be nothing but farmland mostly potatoes and corn. From this point you used to look across approximately a mile of fields and see the ocean. Now it’s mostly houses with some occasional fields. It’s sad really.

The grease goes out the bottom anyway - there is a blow-out from the OE machining process. I figure the packed shallow grooves help to smear the grease.

Same technique for mine... 3rd season and going great!

Foot rest rubber bumpers ready to install. These are just what I happen to have here, not really the ones that were used originally. Foot rest rubber bumpers silicone used as adhesive since the holes in the foot rests are just slightly too big for the bumpers to firmly snap onto. Foot rests ready for rubber bumpers to be installed. I cleaned the footrest and rubber bumper where the silicone is to be applied with contact cleaner so it will bond better. Foot rest rubber bumpers installed. I used a small screwdriver to apply just a thin layer of silicone to the rubber bumper before installing them to the foot rests.

Might be from when it fell off the overhead and hit the missus car ...

Did you try pulling harder?

Through ice and sleet and snow. They made it here.

Agreed. Follow the @SylvanLakeWH rule!!

Actually @JCM I’m not talking about the Kwik-Way, my bad ! Mine is a Wheel Horse loader which I believe is actually made by Ark. I think I only took it off once before realizing it was easier to leave it on and just get more tractors for different attachments!!

The first few years I had just one tractor to do everything, I could install or remove the loader under a half hour. The front axle and spindles should be upgraded to handle the load, the 520H tractors have what is needed. Also. gear reduction steering will help a lot, the weight really makes it difficult to steer.

From my experience, once the loader is on that’s it. It becomes a dedicated loader tractor. You’re not switching attachments like you would mower to tiller, or tiller to plow. It’s a process to take that off or put it on. That being said, go get it and add another one to your collection!!

Ok I fixed it. I got it running better than it ever has since I’ve owned it. I can now run it with no choke on, and idle it way down without it surging. I’m not sure any one thing I did fixed it. I think it was a combination of things. First I took apart the original carb and cleaned it. I was able to reuse the original gasket that goes between the halves. Although the next time I take it apart I should probably buy the rebuild kit with a new gasket. Next I cranked it over with the fuel hose still disconnected from the carb. It seemed to not flow very well. Less than the gravity flow through a 1/4” like for sure. So I swapped out the new aftermarket fuel pump back to the original. Then tested it again. It seemed to flow quite a bit better with the original pump. At first when I put it all back together the carb bowl wouldn’t fill. So I popped the top off the carb again and shot some more carb cleaner through the needle valve on the float. I cranked it over and saw fuel filling the bowl so I put it back together. She fired right up and runs good. Now I can focus on my rear wheel spacers and getting chains on it. I guess my lesson here is beware of aftermarket parts. They’re not all the same spec as Onan. Most likely if I had just cleaned the carb and resealed the intake I would have been golden

Ive plowed 3 times Ed and no problems yet. I just hit the button real quick and it lifts about 3 inches. Which is what my manual lift did. It has the wireless remote. As soon as you let off the button it stops. Fingers crossed.

I put a winch on the dedicated snow machine. I hurt for 2 days anymore using the manual lift. I do about 3/8 mile of drives.

28 degrees? the heat is in the tools! my shop is 50/60.....that is why not as much gets done!

Plastic scraper, flat blade screwdriver (being careful to not take the paint off), rags and elbow grease. No cleaning chemicals or even water. This spring I’ll remove the fender and guards and all and it’s get a proper pressure washing.

So you basically removed all that paint protector! LOL Amazing how deep that stuff was. And BTW you missed a spot!

happy Birthday @JC 1965, we are glad you were born.

I have started using the j9 rated from any parts store but it is more $$$ and the j7 would probably be just fine here is some info I got from interweb... I dont like the looks of the clear fuel hose but know nothing about them Based on SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) standards for automotive fuel hoses, J30R6, J30R7, and J30R9 represent different grades of fuel hose, with significant differences in pressure rating, temperature resistance, and permeability. SAE J30R6 (J6) Application: Designed for low-pressure, carbureted fuel systems, emission systems, or fuel return lines. Suitability: Not recommended for modern fuel injection systems due to lower pressure limits. SAE J30R7 (J7) Application: A versatile, standard fuel hose designed for fuel systems (carbureted or low-pressure fuel injection) and emissions systems. Suitability: Suitable for under-the-hood applications. It has better heat and oil resistance than R6, but lower pressure ratings than R9. SAE J30R9 (J9) Application: Specifically designed for high-pressure fuel injection systems. Performance: Highly durable, with superior resistance to heat, pressure, and, most importantly, low permeation (fuel vapor escaping through the hose wall). Compatibility: Excellent for modern fuels, including ethanol blends. Key Differences Summary Pressure: J9 (highest) > J7 > J6 (lowest). Permeability: J9 is designed to prevent fuel vapors from escaping, making it more compliant with modern environmental standards compared to R7 or R6. Best Use: Use J9 for fuel-injected engines, J7 for carbureted/fuel return, and J6 for basic fuel transfer.

So this is a stand-alone structure I take it?? Not one with a walk thru access? First thing to consider since it is in Michigan is snow load and proper pitch of the roof. Along with runoff and drainage of the accumulated snow as it melts. If time is the most important factor, a kit may be the better choice - but may have design limitations for alterations / custom features. Stick built allows you go at your own pace but will take longer to finish. A "newer" alternative - is it possible to get a 10 x 40 shipping container in place there? There are numerous excellent videos of folks that have adapted one to become a garage - when done it is almost unrecognizable from its original form.

I wouldn't have thought so, but it's in the parts manual for the D-160.

I don’t believe it does come with the 2 loader stands. I believe it has the weight box.

I believe I have those items here.

That loader ALONE is worth $2500 minimum.

I don't have a C-160 but I do have a C-120/180. If I subtract the 20 from the 80 does that make it a C-160.

Does buying one count?

Mystery boxes came today in a big truck: So I unpackered them: and now I am tired. The shop is more, or less, done for now. I still have some outlets to place, and an air line to run, but the major elements are in place. Time to get to work.

Wanted to clean the new to me C-145auto but the garage was 28 degrees and it was even colder outside. So just a scraping, shop-vac and rag cleaning today. Also installed a belt engage/disengage lever (completely missing!)

Front axle ready to be installed. Front axle pin ready to be installed. I made this up at my old work place and it uses a cotter pin instead of an E clip for the secondary retainer. 3/4" pin is stainless steel and the tab is carbon steel. Tractor ready for front axle to be installed. Front axle installed. Front axle pivot pin bolt installed and torqued to 17 ft/lb. Front axle pivot pin stainless cotter pin and thin shim washer installed. Tractor assembly as of today.

Aw, thank you both!

Ship one to @kpinnc.

Turns out fuel pump doesn't pump. Runs pretty well with gravity feed. Not sure what I want to do with her yet. Do not have any validated requirement for another C-160-8

Doing some mid season maint/inspection on the 702. Relocated exhaust because it was originally turned down towards the snowblower controls. Used whatever pipe/connectors I had. Didn't wanna drive out in the rain to get parts......all the cars are washed & clean in garage 😆 Also installed some rear wheel weights that I cant even remember where they came from. There's only 2 bolt holes in weights & of course only 1 hole lines up. They really fit well into the rim tightly so I think just the 1 bolt is enough because they they fit so good.

Looking good, Aldon!

Found this pic on the internet.....I was correct.....Warner Electric made them.

@pfrederi , I really appreciate you posting this process and the detailed explanation and pics!

On the Grazer mower I used as a kid , I would rock the pto switch back and forth at a lower rpm so the blades would ez into engagement . In my later years as a od grinder we would spin the grinding wheel by hand then hit the on off switch a couple times so that it wouldn't knock my wheel out of balance (+-.0005 on some jobs) . Seem to work , and the belt didn't shriek when you turned it on .

Next step is to separate the pulley from the hub. I have both 1" and 1-1/8" PTOs The only difference is the hub. They use the same bearings Field coil and Clutch plate. EDIT:: First you have to remove the two snap rings inner and outer. See last picture I forgot this step. Inner is an eaton and needs the special pliers or 4 letter words and some luck. The outer one you can pry in and off with a screw driver. END EDIT This time thread the pusher bolt in from the back of the unit. Again make sure to fully engage the threads. Again slam the unit down on the anvil until the pulleys drop down (some Kroil PB blaster Between the inner race and the hub may help Picture 1. Picture 2 shows them apart. You can now press out the bearings if you are replacing them. The small bearing in the field coil is readily available for about $8. 6204 is bearing size you want one sealed on both sides. On one of my units they staked it in so it will come out hard. I used hydraulic press. I guess you could use a hammer and appropriate arbor but I would be afraid of damaging the field coil. Picture 3 shows the old and new bearing. I inserted new bearing with a hand press. After break we will remove the big bearing which may or may not still be available (I should know in a couple of days). In any event you could always clean and repack the original after you get it out.

I will do this in a couple of posts...(so I don't confused) I am disassembling 3 WH Electric PTOs. I assume youhave already removed from teh tractor using a pusher bolt. 5/8NC or 7/8NC or 1"NC depending on the age of your PTO First picture are the tools i used Who ever made these for WH they were not consistent in the style of snap ring. The Eaton type require a special pliers or you will probably damage it (or your self removing it. The big internal snap ring on the right can be removed with a couple of screw drivers. Next step is to remove the electro magnet (field Coil). Note on older units with a 7/8 or 1" pusher there may be a snap ring you have to remove between the outer bearing and the field coil. Newer units do not use that. Thread the 5/8" nc bolt into the unit from the outside Picture 2 make sure the threads are fully engaged. Manual says use cement floor i used an anvil and proceed to slam the unit down on the bolt head several times...and I do mean slam.Picture 3. You may want to put a small amount of Kroil.PB Blaster in the seam between the inner bearing race and the PTO sleeve. After several hard slams the field coil will drop out Picture 4. You will then have 2 parts picture 5. Time for a coffeee break. More to follow

Pretty much the same as a air conditioning clutch Paul, A/C & hydraulic clutches don't engage as hard because refrigerant/oil absorbs much of the starting shock. The rust on the left one will clean itself off after some use but the dust it leaves behind should be cleaned/blown out occasionally. Biggest problem I have with these pto's is bearings My 246 eats the bearings quite often suposedly beacause of the heat generated But I think it's beacuse water gets in the bearing when washing (vertical shaft). Bearings are staked in so a bear to get out the first time. These guys https://xtremeope.com/ have replacement electrics that are supposed to be much better and cheaper. I with with you guys on rather have a manual tho.

I think the one on right might be a bit jerky when engaging. I had never looked inside an Electric PTO before...Interesting

It may be in our minds as well because your car A/C unit cycles on and off as you drive with no ill effects.

My Ford had an electric PTO. I tried to have the engine idled down when engaging the PTO no matter what it was connected to (I only had a mower deck and snow blower for it). I do like to be able to gently engage the PTO. My diesel tractor has a 2 stage clutch and I can slowly let it out and gently start things connected to it as well.

The only electric PTO I have is running the hydraulic pump to a Johnson Workhorse FEL on my GT-14. Sudden engagement is not a concern for me, but if it is engaged and I have the lights on the charging system is being overtaxed, probably not going to change to manual clutch (too lazy), but will probably change the lights to LEDs.