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Well... maybe. Your mileage may vary. I tried for several days to figure out how to hold the wheels and rotate them so I could cut them straight. I started to build a jig to hold them, but then realized that was against hillbilly rule #7: Use what you have on hand. So I put a tractor on jack stands and removed a Wheel. Then mounted the bare rim and used a sharpie to mark the cut line all the way around. Sat on a 5 gallon bucket and lightly cut into the wheel on the lines until it cut all the way. It gets a little sketchy when the cutting wheel first breaks through. You have to turn the grinder to rotate the same direction as the wheel is turning so it doesn't grab. Ask me how I know... Holding the two halves together to get the welding started was interesting. Grinding deep "V" shapes in the backside to fill didn't help. Angle iron around inside or out didn't work. I used a couple big magnets to tack the first joint, and welding clamps two inches at a time until all the way around. But it turned out great. Rim is 9 inches wide bead to bead and the bonus is that the extra parts make up a nice set of 6 inch wheels, so nothing is wasted. Wheel has no wobble after everything was finished. Plenty good enough for a slow garden tractor. Took all evening to do one wheel. Learned a few tricks so the second one should go much faster.

Well, that 1076 is nearly complete. It's missing the belt guard and throttle cable. It does start, run and drive. The Sundstrand feels strong. It has the axle bracket and snow plow, The slot hitch that can lift the tiller. And the 42" deck with all the side swing arm hardware.

You're downsizing. Just getting smaller stuff instead of complete tractors...

This is why my wife doesn't want me to get a trailer. She's not buying the "It's only for Home Depot runs" line. She's not wrong.

@Achto did similar. Anything to add Dan? Awesome work, Kevin!

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Great job Kevin !! I had some waste when I built mine. Spun the rims on my C-145 lathe. My finished width was 11.5"

One of our favorite sayings around here! I agree with Kevin Kevin! Niiiiice!

I bought one of those from @squonk a couple years back, and a young kid at my plow day just had to have it He traded me an RJ whether I liked it or not

Gone wrong.

First lets get something straight, you can't use the words downsizing and wheel horse in the same sentence. That is not possible. Next, saying "I only went there to get a tiller", ranks right up with "the check is in the mail" uh ha!

More inventory. Bucket list stuff?

Very noble... Just wait till you get to be his age!!!

I actually went to buy the tiller. Thinking I would have the only tractor with a tiller on the front and rear. But after talking a bit and learning he started working for Allis Chalmers in 1965, one year after I did, I knew I had to help a 77yo downsize. So I cleaned out his garage.

After a carb cleaning it will take a little time cranking to fill the bowl before it can start. Remove the air cleaner cover and shoot a squirt of carb cleaner into the carb throat. If it fires right up, the issue you have is fuel related. If it doesn't, it's spark related. Safety switches can cut ignition

Try a new and correctly gapped spark plug. If it does not correct the problem remove it and save for the next time.

@kpinnc what type of grinder did you use? Been wanting to try this myself. I have a couple extra sets of wheels and like you mentioned it's hard to find the wide rears with the right Wheel horse off set.

I personally belive Kroil is the best penetrating lube on the market. It's expensive, but worth every penny.

The bidding war was a frenzy, all the way up to $2,625 It closed, I bid myself up to $1,700, I’ll never see the Turd again…

Yeah, I finally got a mower that is licensed to use state highways.

Not a lot of pin showing there. Me, I’d grind both ends off (the heat from the grinding will help) and then, as @kpinnc suggested, drill ¼ or ⅝” holes in both ends about an inch deep to take a punch. Of course, plenty of penetrant that you’ve allowed time to work. Then, on alternating ends, a few sharp whacks on the punch with a big hammer. Reapply penetrant. Coffee or a movie. Repeat. Once it moves in one direction, touch grind what is now exposed of the pin then go the other way. I find that going back and forth is more productive that “going for broke” in one direction right away.

Git you some new stuff there Ed?

Got my donor wheels together for the rear. I don't have any more wide rears so I'm gonna have to make a set from two different pairs. The pair with the surface rust has a way wrong offset. They came from a Ford LGT. The tires on Ford pair would not break loose at the bead, even though they were clean. I had to use a 3 foot 2x6 and the weight of the Tundra to break them. Hopefully I can gain another skinny pair of wheels using these as well. We will see...

We all know that Ed has found good homes for lots of good Wheel Horses that have been abandoned by previous owners, It is very commendable that he is so willing to help others in need of such intervention.

Hello all. I am a proud owner of a early 312-8 and also 520 H. I wanted to introduce myself as a Wheel Horse enthusiast, and I also joined in order to keep up with all the maintenance procedures and tips that this forum provides.. Currently. I am focused on getting my 312-8 up & running. I have ordered a throttle to replace the old one and it will come in tomorrow, after that I should be ready to cut grass with it. I am located in SE Wisconsin. Respectfully. Tom

First it starts with one, then two and before long you will need a bigger building to house the entire heard. Welcome to the addiction.

I’d assume a death wheel (thin style) would be much better than a heavy grinding wheel.

14 results with a 418-A search https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=418-a&quick=1&type=downloads_file 14 results with a 418-8 search https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=418-8&quick=1&type=downloads_file

Hi Tom. Welcome aboard to the wheel horse crew.

Ordered axle seals for the 312-8 the other day and needed to check the outer bearings just to know what I'm up against. Pulled the rear weights and wheels, bearings are good. Flipped the tow receiver to get more ground clearance there and decided to go ahead and replace the fuel line while I had it up on jack stands. All is good. I'll replace the left seal when it gets here and this one will be back in service. Great machine, one of my favorites!

Don, it doesn't do that now that I got everything put back original. After putting everything back original it will stay at whatever speed I set it to going downhill.

That's on the table

I’m looking for a bagger vac system for a 42 or 48 inch deck and a hood for a lawn ranger

Whats the scoop on those tillers? I've only ever seen one.

I’m not sure about anyone else here, but that hasn’t happened to me yet and I’ve been dealing with these tractors for over 40 years!!!

I can see what closed the deal, those license plat patches on the deck just couldn't be passed on gotta' have them.

Sounds like we are going to get a How-to haha

It's hard to not pass up a good deal isn't it?

Welcome aboard sir! When you get tired of learning about Wheel Horses, I have a feeling you'll enjoy some of what's in here... What Are You Listening To? - non tractor related discussion - RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum -------- Mods, can somebody merge his other Introduction threads into this one (especially the one with the photos), and maybe move it to the Introductions forum? Thanks!

Hello Tom You've come to the right place. We have quite a few characters from Wisconsin and other nearby areas.

As a sailboat owner for the past 40+ years those SS cables are the bomb, but when they start to get old, with years of sun and salt water spray they can develop tiny meat hooks.

Those bolts were not installed and I misplaced them, but they are found along with the collars/sleeves.

Your engine is splash lubricated with relatively wide clearances when compared to a modern automotive pressure lubricated engine, I would go with 30 as stated in the engine manual.

Just for giggles I set the axle assembly in front of the 523H. Surprised to see this is about two inches wider than the swept axle with 8 inch front wheels and trailer hubs on it. Definitely gonna have a wide track. I was going for that, but didn't realize it was this wide...

Not much- But finally got time to get the second front wheel done today. Gonna be a meaty front end on this tractor!

Contemplate carefully how much time you'll spend fiddling around trying to hold the wheel vs removing and remounting the tire.

@Lee1977 and @AlexR I took your collective advice. Made this little jig up to center my hole saw and it worked pretty well. As expected, it got just into the smaller bolt pattern so I just rounded them out the best I could. Looks sort of like ATV wheels now ... A little at least. Looks good enough for a garden tractor. Test fits OK. Sprayed a first coat of primer on so it won't flash rust and stopped there for tonight. The other wheel already has a tire mounted so that one might be interesting holding it while cutting the center out. Maybe some ratchet straps will hold it...