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Well I figured out how to take mine apart,

So, are you going to tell us how?

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Let me ask a dumb question. What if I were to make a brass bushing to replace 1533. How long do you think it would last? The axles turn at a slow speed and they are almost submerged in lube.

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I reckon it would be worth a go as you said no great speed involved and plenty of lube

if anyone had the time and equipment to do it and then give it a good test we could be saved.

Dan :thumbs:

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I would shy away from the Bronze bushing idea it has been my experience that any kind of side load on the bearing and the brass will actually wear the shaft down.

Well I figured out how to take mine apart,

So, are you going to tell us how?

Taking the bearing apart is simple use a small screwdriver to gently pry the shield out of the race. The bearing spacer will then slide out, let the balls fall to together at the bottom of the bearing and it falls apart.

I clean the races with scotchbrite (the gray super fine if you can find it) till everything shines again take care not to remove any material, all you want to do is get rid of any surface rust. If the races are too badly pitted it won't work.

Buy 24 good quality chrome 1/4 inch balls from a bearing, or industrial supply store. I would not trust the cheaply made ones from the hardware store, those are quite often a lower grade that are not nearly as hard or held to the same tolerances as bearing grade balls.

assembly is reverse of disassembly, although much more frustrating and cursing is required. :thumbs:

Oh and that sheild is very soft material and easily bent and distorted i found I had to gradually work it back into place with a hammer and punch. Almost like fighting a tire back onto a rim. If you have a way to super cool the ring it may just slip in but I have not tried this yet.

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Let's just say within the past hour I got a solid lead from an anonymous source!

(smiley with fingers crossed!)

Duff :thumbs::wh:

Well??????????

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Sousakerry2, I thank you for that info. It's going to be copied and kept in a safe place! :thumbs:

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Let's just say within the past hour I got a solid lead from an anonymous source!

(smiley with fingers crossed!)

Duff :thumbs::wh:

Well??????????

The lead wasn't as solid as I had hoped. They make just about everything except the 1533 spec. :D

The search continues........

Duff :D

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Just some additional info on the brass bushing idea. I was disassembling a Bolens 850 today and discovered that the outer trans axle bearings are brass bushings. I would think the outers would get more side load than the inners. If I had an otherwise good trans, I think I would be tempted to save it with bushings. As long as it was to be used for normal duty. No racing.

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Did anyone ever find a source for the Toro Gold plated 1533 ball bearings? I found in other forum threads where a Torrington b-348 needle bearing was used instead (about $19 each) and a hardened sleeve or bushing to bridge the gap from the Torington's 2-1/8 ID down to the 1-1/2 diff housing but no mention of part numbers or suppliers on the sleeves. Jeremy

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Here is a thread where we started looking at this a few months ago:

As far as I know, no one has dug any deeper into it as of now. Someone needs to, maybe it could be you!

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Thanks for the heads up on the thread sorekiwi. I started with the same thread through a Google search which led me to the Redsquare. I've been digging ever since and thought I had a solution... the 111199 bearing, but it's too big. So back to square 1 or 10 or 15, I've lost track! I will definitely post any solution when found. The latest lead is getting a couple of the Torrington b-348 needle bearings and my local machine shop says he can make bushings (hardenned) for $20 each. I'm just wondering what will keep the bearing and bushing from sliding side to side.?

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Have you read the service bulletins about what Wheel Horse did when they were short of the 1533?

The last time a checked the race for the needle bearing was still available for big - no huge bucks.

Garry

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Garry...where can I find the service bulletins you are referring to?? Thanks

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Mr Whittsons - sending you a PM with an idea!!!

Do you have by chance all the dimensions for the 111199 bearing? I know it is 40mm ID but have never seen the OD or the width quoted anywhere..

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Hmm the bearing i have found to now is 37 ID 65 OD 11 W that is in MM

and the orginal bearing is 38 ID 64 OD 13 W it is in MM if the org in 1 1/2 *ID* 2 1/2 OD * 1/2W Right?or?

but we have some companys that makes bearing after what u need but i think it going to be way to expensive..

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Have this in my notes on the 369 PSB but don't know where I got it.

Not included in the PSB is needle bearing part # 8048 (1/2"x2-1/8"x2-1/2") and inner bearing race part # 8052 used in earlier transmissions if they are the same?

8048 is no longer available but the 8052 race is still $172.33 at PartsTree

Garry

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Mr Whittsons - sending you a PM with an idea!!!

Do you have by chance all the dimensions for the 111199 bearing? I know it is 40mm ID but have never seen the OD or the width quoted anywhere..

sorekiwi, sorry it's taken so long to respond. I will get back to you with the actual 111199 dimensions tomorrow when I can get a caliper. I'm not up on the lingo so not sure what a PM is but it and the idea sound promising. Currently I'm dealing with the guys at Ackron and as a possible back-up, have a local machine shop that can make hardened steel bushings/spacers to go with the needle bearing option.

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Have this in my notes on the 369 PSB but don't know where I got it.

Not included in the PSB is needle bearing part # 8048 (1/2"x2-1/8"x2-1/2") and inner bearing race part # 8052 used in earlier transmissions if they are the same?

8048 is no longer available but the 8052 race is still $172.33 at PartsTree

Garry

This is the first time I've actually seen the bulletin (thanks for reposting it sorekiwi) and it's helpful to see how the parts fit together. I looked into this when I saw your original posting Garry and found the same huge prices... and lack of product too.

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I am into a 8 speed I picked up, not sure what it came off of, in hopes of rebuilding and swapping axles with longer GT14 hydro axles for a project I'm working on. @stevasaurus helped me with remote tech support. Thanks Steve!

 

I also found a Japan Pacamor S857B.

 

The bearing is very close to 1533.

 

So close I am not good enough to stand behind measurement.

 

The newer one is from Wheelhorseman1000.

 

IMG_1716.JPGIMG_1719.PNG

 

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