Jump to content
Chuck14025

520 H Won't start. 12.6 volts in battery. 10 volts on guage.

Recommended Posts

12.6 volts in the battery and at the starter connection.

10 volts on the gauge.

Nothing when key is turned on.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

5b44ceec908dd_1electrical.jpg.ef4ae54965be53d18faa0e67fca1093d.jpg

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Double check all of your safety's (Seat, PTO, & Neutral switches, these all need to be closed for the starter to work). Also check for a blown fuse. Another place to check is at the 9pin connector for the engine harness, make sure that all the pins are clean & making good contact.

 

Signal to the engage the starter comes from the small Lt. blue wire that plugs into the starter. This wire should power up with the key switch in the start position. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

what is the VOLTAGE across the BATTERY when you turn the ignition key to START?

Edited by RubyCon1
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Turn on the switch.  Jump a wire from the little blue wire to the big wire on the starter.  If the starter cranks, the starter and battery are good and then it is time to explore using the demystification guide. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Battery voltage is 13.5 when I try to start. Voltmeter on dash shows 8 volts -- indicates a short in the connectors or wiring.

Can you tell me where the 9 pin connector is located on the 520H?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Chuck14025 said:

Battery voltage is 13.5 when I try to start. Voltmeter on dash shows 8 volts -- indicates a short in the connectors or wiring.

Can you tell me where the 9 pin connector is located on the 520H?

 

You would only get 13.5 volts if there is a battery charger connected.  If the voltmeter is showing 8 volts at the same time, you have an extremely bad connection or a bad voltmeter.  Connect your voltmeter to the battery directly and then compare readings to a good voltmeter.

 

In electrical work, everyone likes to use the word "short" but that is often not the case because a fuse would blow when there is a true short.  Bad connections may be the case if voltage is low.

 

Have you tried jumping the wire at the starter as I explained in an earlier post?   Did you have the battery load tested?  Battery testing is free at Autozone and Advance Autoparts.

 

The nine pin connector is found next to the battery and is a white plastic block.  Often there will be burned marks and melting resulting in a bad connection.  A previous owner may have did away with the troublesome thing.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Jpud
      I have I believe is a 73 commando 800 8hp kohler k181s put a new switch on it due to starter sticking on and got a new starter and completely charged the battery and new solenoid has power to the battery side of solenoid but not starter side but will turn over if jumped has no power going to the switch. Wondering if anyone had this problem before 
    • By lodestonefarm
      I went out to use my 520H with blower this evening and it won't start.  I used this machine a few days ago (for the first time this winter).  The battery has been on a trickle charge so I don't think that's the problem.  It's done this before where it won't start, won't start, and then starts.  Usually that is in cold weather and after I've previously used it to blow snow.  I don't have a heated garage so I think it might have some ice somewhere that was introduced as water the last time I blew snow.
       
      Here's what it's currently doing.  When I turn the Ignition to 'On' the red warning lights and the dashs light all come on.  When I turn the key to start position I get a single 'Click' and nothing more.  I tried jumping it from a hot battery just to rule out a bad battery.  Same behavior.  Following some of the other threads about 520s with trouble starting, I pulled the blue wire off the starter solenoid.  If I run a jumper wire from the (+) side of the battery directly to the solenoid I get the same behavior (regardless of key being in on or off position)- small spark where my jumper wire is touching the battery terminal and a single click.  
       
      I'm unsure what this means about the solenoid and if that, in any way tests, the starter.  Could it be that my starter is bad/frozen?  I tried using a heat lamp to warm up that area, but in this weather (and my garage, which is really just a tarp shed) that just isn't going to work.  
       
      I've downloaded the demystification guide and started looking at it but I'm hoping someone might have some suggestions.  Snow is falling and I'm not making much headway on this.  
       
      Thanks
    • By Lablan
      Well, I put the washers on the flywheel side of the engine and that seems to be working better as far as the starter to flywheel, but the engine won't start. I have a new coil, condenser, plug wires, plugs (not sure about the correct gap though), and a new electric fuel pump with filter. The mower ran one time and mowed the yard a month ago but has not started since then. It started one the first crank when I put all that in new. Is it possible the coil has failed? I even put the old plugs back in to see if that was the issue. The were not burnt. What should I check to test possible failures of the coil or fuel? I think the fuel is going to the carb but not sure if this is enough pressure? Not ready to give up yet...
    • By Mastiffman
      Hello gang,
       
       Have a question about this model as I have an opportunity to purchase a used one in god shape for $425 delivered.

       It has 632hr on it and the infamous run and then shut off. Which I'm guessing is the Ignition Voltage Regulator under the flywheel being that it's a common problem with these Onan Engine and the amount of grass and garbage that collects under there in that area. Seller states that the "engine runs strong and tight"... The unit is NOT a Hydro but is an 8 speed and looks to be a good condition. Has new Deck Spindles and Blades with grease fittings. It comes with a 50" deck. I currently have a 1988 Belt Driven 52" Scag walk behind with a Kawasaki v420 engine with a slight knock it. But it's been that way since I got it about 8 years ago... 

       With the work involved in the repair and the price is this 416-8 tractor with the time and money? Especially not being a Hydro... Should I just wait to find a good deal on a Hydro or get this one as I can always resell it... I like the Hydraulic setup of the H series as well as the slightly wider stance in the front end...
       
       I've Attached some Photos. I haven't seen this unit in person ad the gentlemen selling me the unit is going to be driving 15-20 miles to drop if off.
       
       There are a couple Hydros in the area but they are asking $1200-$1750...
       
       Thoughts and experience?
       
       Thanks.
       
       Andrew C. 






    • By SylvanLakeWH
      New to WH world and this forum. Got a 1980-83? C105 with K241AS 10 hp with intermittent ignition failure. Sometimes the key simply won't get anything. No click or burp. This happens with no consistency. Hot, cold, warm... Usually, I jiggle key or wires and it's enough to get it going but I am concerned it will just get worse.  

      Thoughts or or suggestions welcome!!!

      sylvanlkwh
×