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Since I've finally got some time with this D and not puking oil all over itself it's time to address a few small issues . Biggest one right now is how that blade engages the ground - it always wants to sit a few inches lower on the right side and always puts more force on that side as well . When I rebuilt the frame I made certain it was squared and flat to the head part and the blade - it still measures out perfectly with the rear mount and the blade's cutting edge staying on the same plane . But , trying to do light grading work and leveling material it always wants to cut more on that right side - I suspect part of this is the weight of that handle , the solid steel cross shafts and sub frame for the whole assembly . With those parts previously cut loose I was quite surprised at just how heavy that stuff was - probably close to 35lbs of steel . With that weight hanging off one side of the frame I suspect that's the root cause of the issue - anyone got an opinion on this or ran across the same issue ?
I've considered either adding weight to the left side of the blade or maybe add a spring to the frame to help correct it - what have others done or am I by myself on this , lol ??
I was cleaning some oil residue from an earlier dumb move - I try to keep things clean so any leaks that spring up show easily . I noticed along the top of the block towards the center from the right cylinder's valve cover a cast marking , cleaned it off and found this -
The casting mark clearly shows K532 .
Now , is this a case like the single cylinder blocks that were stamped "301" but you had to check internally whether it was a 10hp or 12hp engine ? K241 & K301 blocks are stamped the same and that is common knowledge .
But , what about the K482/K532/K662 twin opposed cast iron engines , same deal ?? Any insight on the blocks or anyone know for sure ?
Or - did someone swap out the original K482 from this '74 D180 to a K532 20hp from a donor ?? Some of the tins seem to be completely black to the bare metal , while others are clearly red underneath the black - so some painting has been done and this tractor it has at best a sketchy history . At one time it lived at the welding shop next to me to the West , or at least for a short time . The folks I got it from are about 40 miles away in a rural area and the gal that sold it had told me her father had gotten it from the town where I live - from the local welder . His son that now owns/runs the shop doesn't remember it but it may have belonged to his Dad who started the business - but he does say he knows his Dad never bought a new Wheel Horse , he'd only owned a Cub or two that he remembered . Anyway , hard telling on it's history and a lot of mods/repairs have been done in the machine's lifetime .
I'm just curious if this is the original engine/block - the tins are marked as a K482 / spec 35222b as it should be to match the '74 model year in the published model year reference list . The model tag was long gone off the tractor when I got it , the year came from figuring out the sum of it's parts as to the model and such . Maybe that casting mark explains why this engine feels so strong , there is a noticeable difference between the 482 and 532 engines before from when we used them in other industrial equipment such as Ditch Witch , ect . The 20hp version just had a lot more torque and grunt compared to the 18hp . The K662 is insanely powerful and quite underrated - I ran one of those years ago on a compactor with a gear drive transport feature - that engine is a whole different animal compared to the 18 & 20 versions .
By Petes Horse
Getting my mess of a d160 rebuilt and found the source of play in my steering.
This may also explain the oddball rim.
Bottom race. Or is it races now?
-----------------------If you don't like modded OEM parts go no further, there be carnage ahead!----------------------------------------
So I went on a hunt for a replacement. Wow those are expensive. No standard bearings even close.
Turns out 3/4 x 1-3/8 x 1/2 wheel bearings fit perfect because of their flange. Well almost. The ID is a little off.
Adjustment needed. I already ground the lip off. I believe the lips were to hold the bearings for assembly.
The flange of the bearing sits nicely in the adjustment cup.
Looking down into the cup with bearing in it. Flange side down.
Worm alignment with sealed bearing in cup on left. Same as new.
The cotter pin hole doesn't line up but there is enough room to drill a new one.
End view with bearing installed.
To install both top and bottom bearings you have to grind or turn a good portion of the shaft and the lip on the other side.
It's only .030 so not to bad.
Both bearings installed. Fit nicely against the shoulder of the race on the worm.
Worm alignment with both bearings installed. Old outer races removed. tightened snug. Still has full travel and is more centered.
No way to install cotter pin. but my alignment cup was so tight it will not come loose. I'm lucky I got it out.
End cap with both bearings installed.
Hi-tech cap removal tool one ground down wood bit.
The sealed bearings sit up against the shoulder of the race and the bearing flanges face away from the worm.
The flange may need adjusting depending on who made it. There is no inner seal so it can be greased like usual.
I'm not sure how they will hold up to thrust loads but for 6 bucks I'll risk it.
I didn't grind near the original races at all so it can be put back to original if need be, minus some metal anyway.
Welp, back to painting parts.......