Straight From the Horse's Mouth - The final chapter

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I recently picked up a Wheel Horse 36” Snow Blower. It looks brand new, the numbers on the tag are below. I can not find anything online about it. I would like to know what year it is and what it fits.

 

Thanks

 0636SL01 50895  

           8239

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Can't help you out with your ID of your blower right now but others will be along with a manual. You've come to the right place. Not much one can do a a smart phone! :) I can however :WRS: you to RS anyway!

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:text-welcomeconfetti: to the :rs:Jim.            Take Bob's advice and get the correct blower for your  314.    Good working blowers can be found for $150-$200.

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On 10/24/2017 at 11:46 PM, BOB ELLISON said:

I know its not the same blower but sometimes it's better to get the right one to fit your 314-8

I agree with bob and here is why. I picked up a snow thrower that was going to be scrapped for 40.00 and just like your's it was for a vertical shaft tractor. I spent quite a bit of time summer of 2016 converting it to run using my tractor. You will need to relocate at least one drive shaft bearing mount location and make a new drive shaft, oh and since the sprocket is welded on the original drive shaft plan on buying a new one. Then you will need to buy two more idler sprockets to reverse the auger rotation. You will need to buy a belt tensioner and spring mounting those was probably the only easy part of the process. The tensioners are no longer sold I lucked out and got one off a parts thrower. You either have to enlarge the opening were the chain goes from the drive shaft to the auger or relocate it depending on drive shaft bearing mount locations you choose. You will need a much longer chain. So unless you have access to a mill a lathe a welder some engineering skills and a lot of free time and 3 to 400.00 dollars your willing to put into the conversion look for one that will work on your tractor. Key when looking for a different snow thrower is if drive shaft is mounted low it is for vertical shaft engine and when mounted high it is for the horizontal shaft engines. 

Edited by Walt
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Thanks for the help. I am going to pick up one that fits this Saturday. What’s a good price to sell the one I have? 

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I would list it at $150 ad be prepared to negotiate.  :twocents-02cents:      Good Luck.

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I have one of these and my idea was to add the drive shaft in the top holes of the center above the preexisting shaft like the 300-500+ models. BUT keep it short and use a pulley on it and tensioner pulley system to drive the lower shaft (with the sprocket for the auger) and make the 300-500+ series lift bracket and bolt that up and then make the same tensioner pulley for the 300-500 as well as the lift pin at the bottom of the blower. lol

 

 Sounds like a lot but I'm sure it could be done.  

The model I have already has the holes for the 300-500 series throwers drive shaft. Not sure from the pics that this one does. Which would make it more challenging.

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It is a lot of work, did one back in 2010 only because of the challenge. Started with a brand new unit still in the box. As stated above, made a new shaft and moved bearing outboard. 2 idler sprockets added to reverse rotation and made a sprocket cover. Made mounting bracket and tensioner assembly. Still have never used it, its my back up for the 2-stage which hasn't failed me yet.

 

Craig

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You the man CTBD... I wouldn't have accepted that challenge in a million years with all my other projects but looks like you knocked  it out the park.... nice work! :handgestures-thumbupright:

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NICE! Can I ask how you have the electric chute swivel hooked up? I'd like to see more photos of that. 

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That part was a lot more work than I had expected. It's a drivers side power window motor from my 2001 Chevy truck. I bought the smallest cogged belt and pulley from McMaster-Carr I could find. The belt is wrapped around the chute and fastened in the front. A couple of idlers, limit switches and homemade brackets is about all. I'm not an electrical person but managed to get it right. A simple two wire 12 volt motor which meant it had to switch polarity to reverse direction, it's all in getting the right toggle switch. Any high torque 12 volt motor will work, the mounting and wiring would be different.

 

Craig

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Neat. So are the limit switches like the neutral safety and seat switches on the tractors. And they cut the power to motor? How did you wire them? 

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The limit switches are the same as the 3 wire pto switches with a roller on the arm. They cut the power for that direction and makes connection so you can still go back.

I don't remember what I used for idlers, I would have take it apart to find out. If I get time tomorrow I'll take a look.

 

Craig

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