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B-100

K-241s stator replacement

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Has anyone had to replace the stator on their 241? Mine is no longer charging and I can't seem to find any info about changing it, online or in my Kohler manual. 

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You have to pull the flywheel to replace it.  Pretty straightforward. Four bolts holding it onto the bearing plate beneath the flywheel. Pay attention to how the wire is routed. May have to loosen the bearing plate to get the plug through, or remove the plug and then re-attach.

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Ok, so no gaskets or special tools needed?

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Just a wheel puller. There are some good videos on youtube of the process. 

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Just a suggestion; check the AC output of the stator before replacing it. Should be 30+ volts at wot.

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9 minutes ago, oldredrider said:

Just a suggestion; check the AC output of the stator before replacing it. Should be 30+ volts at wot.

Very good point. Make sure its not your regulator/rectifier.

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Make sure your multi meter is set to AC.  There is probably a wiring harness that come from the engine with three wires in it.  There should be plug at some point. separate it and test the 2 white wires coming from the engine

fly.JPG

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Ya I checked that, it was only reading at the most 20 VAC. I also followed the Kohler manual and checked for resistance between the stator leads with engine off. It was reading infinity so that said stator was bad. 

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Posted (edited)

I had the same problem with my c160

And it turned out to be a broken wire coming out of the stator.  But I had to pull the cover and the rotor  to get to it. 

I just soldiered it back and it's good to go. Sometimes that rotor is hard to get off. Put puller on and put pressure on it and use a hammer to hit the side of the rotor.  Don't hit the fins. I use a brass hammer and a few Firm hits will pop it off.

Edited by BOB ELLISON

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Is there a torque spec for the flywheel bolt?

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I think it's 50 to 60 foot pounds.

I just Google kohler k341 tourque spec. 

 

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Ok, thank you. Is there anyway to lock the motor? I'm having trouble getting the Phillips head screws out of the flywheel screen.

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Third gear high range block the wheels and set the parking brake works some times (Pull sparkplug wire to be safe)

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Problem is it's the automatic drive, it's just slipping.

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Assuming you have phillips head screws, take a solid shaft phillips screw driver, set it solid in the screw head, and give it one good hit with a hammer. Works first time 99% of the time

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Remove spark plug get a length of rope that will fit through the plug hole stuff the rope in and to the back to where the piston is..keep it away from the valves

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6 hours ago, B-100 said:

Is there anyway to lock the motor?

You could remove the PTO and put a pipe wrench making three point contact on the crank shaft, rotate it so the key is touching the wrench so you don't damage the crank.

5940650533cb8_1pipewrench.jpg.c455d8b60d4993533cfcb4ecce3b778f.jpg

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Ok, well I was able to get it all apart, got the stator off, but one of the bolts for the grass shield broke off in the flywheel. After trying to drill it out and having the bit break off, I figured since it was cast iron I could melt the bolt out. But in the process I melted some of the cast iron. Will this affect the balance? 

IMG_1107.JPG

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Not that small an amount

 

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I just replaced mine a few months back same model. An impact made it easy to get the nut off, but I almost broke the puller trying to remove the wheel. Be sure to lock tight the screws that hold the stator on. As I had one stuck in the magnet inside the flywheel when I first removed it. FYI the engine manual calls for 60-70 foot pounds. On earlier models with a 3/4"-16 thread it's 100 foot pounds. (Mines a 1977 and was the 60-70) Best of luck.

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Does anyone think that the heat from the oxy-acetylene torch could affect the magnets?

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I do not know for sure.  I am working on a Techy right now with magnet issues.  Tecumseh says hold a screw driver about 3/4" away from the magnet and see if it pulls it in...if it does it is OK.  Would think the same idea should work for Kohlers..Check the magnet closest to your heat point,.. There is a lot of thermal mass in a flywheel I would think the the heat would have been dissipated.

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, B-100 said:

Does anyone think that the heat from the oxy-acetylene torch could affect the magnets?

Depends on how close to the magnets the heat is.

When heated above 176° Fahrenheit, magnets will quickly lose their magnetic properties. The magnet will become permanently demagnetized if exposed to these temperatures for a length of time or heated at a significantly higher temperature. If you are heating the area where you broke a drill bit I would suggest you wrap it with wet rags all around and under to act as a heatsink. Once you heat the drill to the point where it is red (1800 degrees) and allow it to cool completely you can drill it out because the heat will remove the temper from the drill bit.

Edited by 953 nut

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Ok, now for an update. Got the new stator on along with a different flywheel, charged battery and got it running. The new stator is putting out 34 vac, sweet. But the battery is only showing 12.3 vdc while running, 12.7 when off. So would a battery with a bad cell read 12.7 after charging or do I have a bad regulator/rectifier?

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Should be about 13 - 14 volts at about 2500- 3000 rpm's.  At the battery post a volt meter should still read 13 volts.

I suspect a bad regulator or bad connection. Check all your connections . Check switch,and amp gage connections.  And at the battery including the ground connection. If all these are good then I would think it's a bad regulator /rectifier. 

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