rustynutguy 9 #1 Posted January 12, 2015 (edited) Needing some help on my instal on a hydrolic lift if anyone has good pictures they could post to help me out that would be awsome. And glad to be back on the forum I used to have the profile rustynut Edited January 12, 2015 by rustynutguy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustynutguy 9 #2 Posted January 12, 2015 I really need to know which bolt the cone and spring goes in Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,487 #3 Posted January 12, 2015 Did you check our free manuals section? Maybe a exploded view picture in there for you to check. Sorry, its all I can offer, best of luck. Glenn Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,611 #4 Posted January 12, 2015 (edited) End cap spring, cone, & valve components are shown here: Edited January 12, 2015 by daveoman1966 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustynutguy 9 #5 Posted January 12, 2015 I don't have the ball and spring I only got the cone and spring with my lift, and we're would I run the lines then Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,611 #6 Posted January 12, 2015 The two hyd lines connect to the FACE of the end cap. The two PORTS for the spring, cone, ball, etc are on the SIDES of the end cap. The ball and spring should already be in your end cap, in the rear port. NEXT.....(1) Remove the rear port plug and withdraw the ball and spring. (2) Remove the front port plug and put that ball and LIGHT spring in there. (3) Install the shorter HEAVIER spring and cone in the rear port. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustynutguy 9 #7 Posted January 12, 2015 Well I took the bolt out and there wasn't a spring and a ball there was a spring and a cone Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,611 #8 Posted January 12, 2015 ok... You now have 2 cones...Right? If so, put one in either side and put the SHORT HEAVY spring in the REAR port of the end cap. The LONGER LIGHT-DUTY spring goes in the front port. The cone MAY be the same as using the ball bearing...not sure. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustynutguy 9 #9 Posted January 12, 2015 I put the the cone and spring in the front port and the same with the back port u gotta go get hydrolic lines made in a few to go into my tranny Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,611 #10 Posted January 12, 2015 Get the springs RIGHT. The front port should be a LIGHT-DUTY spring, a little longer than the rear port. The rear port should have the HEAVIER SHORTER spring. Get thIS RIGHT or your hydro lift won't work right. Do you need all 4 lines? If so, what model tractor are you working on? ? ? I probably have them. send me a direct email to: daveoman@windstream.net Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustynutguy 9 #11 Posted January 12, 2015 I need the one that go to the tranny cause the ones on it aren't big enough to screw into my tranny Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trouty56 565 #12 Posted January 12, 2015 sounds like he has the lines for the older pump.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustynutguy 9 #13 Posted January 12, 2015 Okay so my cylinder will go out but won't go back in?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,611 #14 Posted January 12, 2015 That MAY be a control valve problem, OR... maybe two cone valves will NOT work right (I thought it MAY work). First, do your hyd lines connect like in this pic of my C-160 (identical to C-120 of 1976 or 1977). If not, switch them around so they do. Looke at the control valve...does moving the handle cause the plunger to move in / out? If not, maybe the little 'S' ring isn't connected correctly or has come loose. Does your control valve look like this one? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustynutguy 9 #15 Posted January 13, 2015 Okay I got it hooked up but it won't barely pick the blade up itl pick it up 2 or 3 inches but if I pick the blade up by hand and pull the lever up it will go all the way up and stay up? What ya think would do that it goes down fine and Has alot of down pressure Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,611 #16 Posted January 13, 2015 (edited) I am not sure whether the UP hyd force comes from the front or rear hyd line at the trans. I do know that there is a SHIM PACK that increases the pressure of the rear port (rear hyd line) and it is shown in this pic. Two of them are shown and they are about 1/16" thick and the diameter of the SPRING. The install sequence is: Cone, Heavy Spring, Shim(s), End Plug. You can make the shim....CAREFULLY cut the end off of a bolt that just fits inside the plug....cut it off to just 1/16" length (2 of them). If that doesn't give more lift, then you'll have to find a ball valve for the front port...MAYBE. Edited January 13, 2015 by daveoman1966 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Trouty56 565 #17 Posted January 13, 2015 Wouldn't ya think if he had pressure one way he should have pressure the other way also....from the pump I mean....pressure comes from one side...the other is the return....the valve sends the pressure to either the front or back of the cylinder.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,611 #18 Posted January 13, 2015 Your logic fits. Accordingly, either the control valve has issues, or the hyd fluid flow is somehow restricted...MAYBE the cone is not correct in the front port and you have to use the BALL BEARING instead. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustynutguy 9 #19 Posted January 13, 2015 I was thinkin about cutting the front spring to be a little shorter cuz it had all kinds of spring to it when I was tryin to put the bolt back in I was gonna cut it a Lil shorter so that the cone doesn't have as much force against it on the front port think I should try it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,611 #20 Posted January 13, 2015 Absolutely NOT. There is something else out of whack that is causing the problem of limited lift ability. I still think it is the cone in front...change that to the ball bearing and DO NOT cut the spring.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustynutguy 9 #21 Posted January 13, 2015 Tryin to figure out were to get a ball bearing Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,611 #22 Posted January 13, 2015 (edited) Using my elect digital calipers, the ball bearing diameter is 0.436". I have one but I don't want to part with it. Try to google ball bearing 0.436 and see what happens. If you can find a 7/16" ball bearing, it MAY work for you. 7/16 is = to 0.4375 which is just a whisker bigger than my measurement of 0.436. Who knows... another digital caliper MAY read my bearing at 0.4375.. 7/16" that is. Edited January 14, 2015 by daveoman1966 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustynutguy 9 #23 Posted January 14, 2015 So you think I should try to find a ball and see if that works Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
daveoman1966 3,611 #24 Posted January 14, 2015 It is worth a try. Find a 7/16" ball bearing and install in place of the cone in the front port. If that is to no avail, you MAY have a blown seal in the control valve. On my C-160 (all else the same), I can pick the front of the tractor off the ground about 3 inches just using the DOWN FORCE of the hyd lift on the dozer blade. Do you have enough down pressure to do that? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rustynutguy 9 #25 Posted January 14, 2015 Ywah it starts to pick the tractor up Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
