Faithful C-85 died.

[Butch 194]

Here is probably a dumb question but I'm gonna ask. When you do tests with the ignition switch do you leave the plug

on and ram the probe up the back side or do you disconnect the plug and test from there?

[Butch 194]

I think that's the correct one Bob and not the 78-81. But it also shows an ammeter and not a voltmeter like Butch said he had. I just feel that the correct schematic needs to be determined for certain so we're all on the same page.

It might be an ammeter. I'll have to check. In fact I'm pretty sure it is but I'll still check. I have to run out for a bit.

[Geno 1,928]

Here is probably a dumb question but I'm gonna ask. When you do tests with the ignition switch do you leave the plug

on and ram the probe up the back side or do you disconnect the plug and test from there?

 

Either way is fine.

[Racinbob 10,281]

Either way is fine but only for voltage on the B. If you want to check for output voltage it needs to be plugged into the switch. For example, to see if you're getting power at the S terminal with the switch in the start position it has to be connected. Or, you can do a continuity test between the terminals on the switch with it unplugged. If you have continuity between B and S (again, in the start position) and there's power at the connector at B, you'll have power at S in the start position with it plugged in.

Edited September 29, 2014 by Racinbob

[Butch 194]

Probably get some laughs with these tests!!

 

1.    12 volts on both sides of ammeter when connected to - side of battery

 

2.    12.5 volts from ignition terminal "B" to + side of battery.

 

3.     - ammeter to + battery erratic

 

4.     - ammeter to - battery 11.50 volts

 

5.     continuity between - ammeter and + battery

 

6.     NO continuity between - ammeter and - battery

 

7.     12 volts between + ammeter and - battery

 

8.      12 volts between ignition "B" terminal and + solenoid

 

9.      "B" and "S" terminals make contact with each other in start position.

 

 

Don't know if any of these are helpful but I hope so. Could it be the clutch safety switch. Everything died when letting

out the clutch. But I guess I would still have lights. This is frustrating.

 

Thanks for the help guys!

[Geno 1,928]

12.5 volts from ignition terminal "B" to + side of battery.   Is this right? 

 

I would like to know 2 things.  Will a Test Light light up bright at the B terminal of the switch in the off position?  Will a Test Light light up bright at the B terminal of the switch in the start position? 

 

A multimeter is really useless for this kind of testing.

Edited September 29, 2014 by Geno

[Butch 194]

Sorry Geno, but no test light. I did order one on ebay though.

[Butch 194]

12.5 volts from ignition terminal "B" to + side of battery.   Is this right? 

 

I would like to know 2 things.  Will a Test Light light up bright at the B terminal of the switch in the off position?  Will a Test Light light up bright at the B terminal of the switch in the start position? 

 

A multimeter is really useless for this kind of testing.

Yes from Terminal "B" plug to Positive side of the battery a solid 12.5 volts.

 

My test light will probably be here on Wednesday. Appreciate your help!

[Geno 1,928]

That means there is a gound at terminal B when it should be hot. 

 

 

You can use a 12V light bulb and socket with some longer wires too if you have something like that laying around. 

Edited September 29, 2014 by Geno

[Butch 194]

I'll be gone most of Tuesday. I'm hoping my light tester will be here Wednesday.

[Butch 194]

Thanks guys. Last week when I thought it could be the ignition switch I bought one

off Ebay. I put it on today and it starts right up!! Thanks again!!

[rmaynard 14,898]

Thanks for letting us know the resolution. It always helps the next guy that is troubleshooting a similar problem.