Wheel Horse 416H Restoration

[Wishin4a416 2,188]

Looks great!! Nice job.

[Martin 2,130]

Engine is wired and all tins are in place. I will be setting on the frame after dinner. I want to hear it run tonight!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Nick, others want to hear it as well........

I found them at Allied Electronics. Looks like an exact replacement. Order a couple of extras and five switch caps. The caps seem to fall of as I have two without them. I checked the Dell City catalog but could not find any in there. These are Eaton switches same as the one that was on the tractor.

 

I also ordered a supply of molex pins today on EBay. Have some connectors I want to refresh with new pins before I button up this project.

 

got a link or part number for them Nick? caps also. 

[Geno 1,928]

So do we! 

[km3h 543]

The engine is installed and it's alive. I am so proud. I got all the electronics hooked up properly and it started as soon as fuel got up to the carburetor. Engine sounds great. I must have got the valves adjusted properly.

No video at this time, I never even thought about it. Last time I tried to upload video, I couldn't get it to work. Must have done something wrong.

I can't wait to try that foot pedal. Now I have to get tires and paint the wheels. As this tractor will never cut grass as long as I have it I can't decide what I should do about choosing tires. I need help on this subject.

Already planning on what to do to the 417-A. That will be the next project. At least I don't have to tear it down, I did that last year.

But first I have to install the electric wench in the attic so I can haul a lot of stuff up there and get it out of the way. I won't be able to get in the shop tomorrow as my Grandson is getting married and my wife says I have to go. And then Sunday is football.

[km3h 543]

Here is the switch and switch cap numbers with the prices. Shipping was a little over $6.00.

ALLIED ELECTRONICS http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70152323

5 70152324

W-KN-14 $0.260 $1.30

Cap, Pushbutton; Black; SPDT switch; Round; 0.312 in.

Ship Method: Economy Shipping

3 70152323

PB-12600ZQ $8.230 $24.69

Switch, Pushbutton; Momentary; On-None-(On); SPDT; No cap; Solder T.; Silver; 6A; 125VAC

Edited October 4, 2014 by km3h

[Molon_Labe 731]

 

"I won't be able to get in the shop tomorrow as my Grandson is getting married and my wife says I have to go. And then Sunday is football."

IMG_0525.JPGIMG_0526.JPG

 

Nick your life sounds like mine, the xyl rules..

Edited October 4, 2014 by M_Bailey

[km3h 543]

Not usually, but this time I had my wife and my two daughters on my backside. Throw in the cat and there is no way I could win this one. Besides, I really do want to see this kid get married.

[Geno 1,928]

No way to win Nick, the cat was the deciding factor.  

[km3h 543]

The micro-switches arrived this morning. Looks like an exact replacement for the original. If you order them, make sure you also order the caps as the switches do not come with them. Very fast delivery.

Edited October 4, 2014 by km3h

[km3h 543]

Here's the video I promised you. It is my first post on YouTube and it's not perfect but it captures the moment. Look out world, I may become a prolific YouTube poster, now that I know how.

Edited October 4, 2014 by km3h

[Geno 1,928]

It sounds a little wound up, don't blow it up Nick!     

 

It does sound smooth. 

[km3h 543]

Transmission is completely empty. If I read right, it takes 5 quarts to fill it. I am using Rotella 15W 40.

 

Problem is getting it to flow down the damn tube.Unless I barely trickle it in the funnel it won't flow because there is no place for the air to escape. Which tube should I loosen to allow the oil to flow?

[Martin 2,130]

take one of the bolts out that is holding the seat pan support to the top of the transmission.....

that will allow the air to escape as you fill it.

just watch you don't over fill......

 

 

also, I'm sure the manual calls for 10w-30. thats all i ever use. others may have some input on this, but 10w-30 is recommended, so thats all i ever put in there.

Edited October 5, 2014 by Martin

[Theroundhousernr 589]

Crack the oil filter

[km3h 543]

take one of the bolts out that is holding the seat pan support to the top of the transmission.....

that will allow the air to escape as you fill it.

just watch you don't over fill......

 

 

also, I'm sure the manual calls for 10w-30. thats all i ever use. others may have some input on this, but 10w-30 is recommended, so thats all i ever put in there.

Martin, I think you are right on the oil viscosity. I believe I confused it with the transmission for the case tractors. Now I am going to have to drain what I put in it and start over. Glad I asked the question and you caught my mistake.

[km3h 543]

Martin, what did you do about the neutral switch on the 416 you just did?

[km3h 543]

Today I came out and tried to start the engine. Would not start. No fuel to the carburetor. I checked and the gas tank had fuel. Pulled the line from the fuel pump and it was not pumping. Tried two good fuel pumps and nothing. Removed the fuel line from the tank and blew into it. Almost busted my lungs trying to force air into the line. Checked the line and fund it was being pinched. Fixed that and it started right up.

 

Now is the time to try the hydraulics. Cylinder working like it is supposed to. Problem is that there is a leak and I mean a good one coming from the control valve where the metal tube connects. I believe I am going to have to dismantle halfe the tower and move the engine to get at it. Bummer but I will persevere.  

 

The next one is going to be a piece of cake. I have installed and uninstalled almost everything on this tractor at least twice already so now I can do it in my sleep. Have to go get another bag of cat litter. It is great for sopping up oil and other fluids.

[km3h 543]

I was able to remove the plate that holds the fuse block and disconnect a few plugs and got room enough to get a wrench on the two metal lines, both of which had not been tightened. Another of my dumb mistakes.

I keep posting my mistakes so that others will learn. I hope no one minds. I'm to old to be embarrassed by them.

[bmsgaffer 2,043]

I keep posting my mistakes so that others will learn. I hope no one minds. I'm to old to be embarrassed by them.

 

No one minds! That's what this forum is all about!

 

Looking and sounding good!

[km3h 543]

Spent a couple of hours learning to adjust motion system to stop at the tractor to neutral position. Now I am an expert at it. Have to get some small hardware tomorrow to finish installing a few things and then I will mount the rear fender and get the new seat on.

I also hooked you the throttle and chock cables and got them adjusted properly.

Edited October 7, 2014 by km3h

[Aussie 98]

Looking great Nick, you do very nice work.

[km3h 543]

Looking great Nick, you do very nice work.

Thank you sir. That's the longest distance I have ever received a compliment from.

[km3h 543]

Haven't done anything lately been busy here with some other things. I did order some hardware and m,ade sure that I got enough to do a few more of these tractors. I am going to use these stainless steel screws to mount the dash plate and the cover tunnel cover. EBay 50 1/4-20x3/4, $10.58 delivered and 10 U-nuts for $5.99 delivered. Local hardware wants $1.00 a piece for the u-nuts. If they are what I think they are I will order a few more bags of them.

[km3h 543]

I am about ready to apply the rubber to the floor boards. #M weather strip adhesive has been recommended. Question is how much is applied, do you make sure it covers all the rubber? What do you apply it with?

Edited October 12, 2014 by km3h

[Geno 1,928]

That will be very permanent Nick, if you ever want to replace one it will be a real chore.  It won't take much, just use it right out of the tube onto the rubber.  Just make sure you dont use too much or it will come out of the edges and cause a real mess.      Sure you don't want to buy something with the self stick like the factory ones?  They're only a few bucks each.