redrooster 83 #1 Posted December 21, 2013 Ok now the gravity of the beginning of the resto is starting to hit me. I have a few questions of how to go about it. before I reinvent the wheel I would like to get some direction on the best way to go about a resto. I have been collecting the parts and pieces that need replaced or repaired. I have built a dolly to move it around on and a temporary paint booth to contain the overspray and limit dust. 1. Should I completely disassemble it or attack in sections? 2.Should I sand blast as many parts as possible, wet sand, wire brush or a combo of all? 3.I plan on using enamel and I am wondering if I should primer (gray or red) every thing before painting or just paint those things that have a fair amount of factory paint on them and just primer things like the sheet metal? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redrooster 83 #2 Posted December 21, 2013 Ok now the gravity of the beginning of the resto is starting to hit me. I have a few questions of how to go about it. before I reinvent the wheel I would like to get some direction on the best way to go about a resto. I have been collecting the parts and pieces that need replaced or repaired. I have built a dolly to move it around on and a temporary paint booth to contain the overspray and limit dust. 1. Should I completely disassemble it or attack in sections? 2.Should I sand blast as many parts as possible, wet sand, wire brush or a combo of all? 3.I plan on using enamel and I am wondering if I should primer (gray or red) every thing before painting or just paint those things that have a fair amount of factory paint on them and just primer things like the sheet metal? Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redrooster 83 #3 Posted December 21, 2013 I was encouraged today because I knocked the roll pin out of the steering wheel and with a little pb blaster the day before and it came right off Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redrooster 83 #4 Posted December 21, 2013 I was encouraged today because I knocked the roll pin out of the steering wheel and with a little pb blaster the day before, it came right off Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
neil 2,398 #5 Posted December 22, 2013 Its always a good start if you manage to get the steering wheel off in one piece . Is it a complete restoration that you want to do or do you just want a freshen up ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redrooster 83 #6 Posted December 22, 2013 I was thinking a freshen up initially but now I'm thinking a complete restoration. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doc724 924 #7 Posted December 22, 2013 I just finished the restoration on my 78 C141-8 (except for the wheels). I took everything completely apart. The frame was the only part I had sandblasted. For all the other parts I used a combination of wire wheel, sanding with a micro motion sander, or hand sanding. For the really rusty parts I immersed them in vinegar for 48 hours. It took off the rust and any poorly adhering paint with a little help from running water and a wire brush. I don't have the skills to spray paint with a real sprayer, so I used rattle cans, brown primer first followed by a finish coat (Rustoleum Regal Red) . Each part was individually painted before reassembly. I bought all new hardware. Three tips I can offer you 1. For each sub assembly put the hardware an parts in cardboard boxes or zip bags (and label the sub assembly). You can decide what is a sub assembly. It make reassembly so much easier 2. Take plenty of pictures to help with the reassembly. 3. Remember that the frame/steel is the electrical ground. Paint is an insulator. Use numerous internal star washers to make sure you have good grounds (or run a separate ground wire where needed) P.S. Be very careful removing the interlock switch for the PTO. (I ruined mine and they are crazy expensive-I bought a used one). To get the interlock switch out, drill out the two pop rivets which hold the metal actuator in place, then you can take off the nut which holds the switch in place. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redrooster 83 #8 Posted December 30, 2013 I had the tires taken off my rims so I could paint them. The tire shop put several dents in the edges of the rims. Does anybody have suggestions on how to straighten them out? Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ol550 829 #9 Posted December 30, 2013 The rims are fairly soft and easy to bend. I use a adjustable wrench and take small bites. just watch what is happening and take a file to smooth out any burrs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redrooster 83 #10 Posted December 30, 2013 The adjustable wrench worked well to straighten out the dented rims. Thanks for the tip! Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redrooster 83 #11 Posted January 1, 2014 Looking for suggestions on redoing the lettering on the choke and throttle knobs. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk The adjustable wrench worked well to straighten out the dented rims. Thanks for the tip! Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 36,945 #12 Posted January 1, 2014 New knobs here... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
posifour11 723 #13 Posted January 1, 2014 (edited) Check out Glen's section under the vendor heading. He has them. Craig beat me to it. Edited January 1, 2014 by posifour11 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redrooster 83 #14 Posted January 6, 2014 I was looking at the lever and linkage that engage the mower clutch. Other than just wire brushing those items what would be a way to bring those back to the factory look? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 36,945 #15 Posted January 6, 2014 Electrolysis bath...is one way. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redrooster 83 #16 Posted January 7, 2014 Does anybody have them replated. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doc724 924 #17 Posted January 7, 2014 I repainted mine with grey paint. It looks fine. I am sure you can find someone local to clear zinc chromate plate them, but they would have to be rack plated-costly. Paint is way cheaper and just as effective Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redrooster 83 #18 Posted January 7, 2014 Maybe I could go with rustolem silver. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wishin4a416 2,188 #19 Posted January 7, 2014 I blasted and painted mine. Used Rustoleum wheel paint called steel. Turned out alright I think. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redrooster 83 #20 Posted January 7, 2014 Looks good but I can't zoom in on the pic for details. What kind of paint did you use on your tractor? Did you purchase new tires? Thanks for the input! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redrooster 83 #21 Posted January 11, 2014 After a trip to the paint store today I nearly had fainted when I saw the price of emron. I ended up going with acrylic enamel for more than I wanted to pay. Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 991 #22 Posted January 13, 2014 it can be VERY costly to restore a tractor from frame up,well worth it in the end,heres a 101 I did a few years ago,its just rustolium regal red,i couldn't afford auto paint 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redrooster 83 #23 Posted January 13, 2014 (edited) Tried a Speed Blaster handheld media blaster on a couple of rims and it worked very well. I liked how portable the unit is and that in doesn't take much storage space. Edited January 13, 2014 by redrooster Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redrooster 83 #24 Posted January 20, 2014 I removed one of the old seals and it all came out in one piece. On the other side it seemed to slip into the tranny somewhat and I was only able to get small pieces of it. It looks like there is plenty of room for the new seal. Just not quite sure if I should proceed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,028 #25 Posted January 20, 2014 Looks like a clean machine to start with, your job will be much easier with out all the rust, and a major bonus the steering wheel came right off. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
