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groundhog47

Best Penetrating PB or Kroil

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groundhog47

Please give me some opinions, have just gotten some PB. Previously used Kroil with great success, but got some PB trecently as could not find Kroil in that store.

Thanks for any input, Gerry

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zieg72

50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone works best believe it or not.

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Kelly

I've never seen Kroil I use PB blaster

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HorseFixer

Zeig, what ya put it in? Bottle wise? :dunno: I wonder if You could get one of those metal compressed air bottles so you can spray it. :eusa-think: Acetone can eat some stuff up So's I was just wonderin. :text-thankyouyellow:

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zieg72

Zeig, what ya put it in? Bottle wise? :dunno: I wonder if You could get one of those metal compressed air bottles so you can spray it. :eusa-think: Acetone can eat some stuff up So's I was just wonderin. :text-thankyouyellow:

One of those trigger pull oiling can is what I use. I only mix up a couple of ounces as I need it. I have access to an aerosol filling machine and have made a couple of cans of spray but I find the old trigger pull type can works best.

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buckrancher

I have found that a mixture of oxygen and acetyene works best

Brian

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squonk

I have found that a mixture of oxygen and acetyene works best

Brian

I was going to say the same thing. :) Measure it with a ruler, mark it with chalk,and cut it with a torch! :angry-extinguishflame:

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groundhog47

I have found that a mixture of oxygen and acetyene works best

Brian

Tried that once and sat the sterring wheel on fire, Thanks anyway, Gerry

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groundhog47

I've never seen Kroil I use PB blaster

I highly trust your opinion, Thanks Kelly, Gerry

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groundhog47

50/50 mix of ATF and Acetone works best believe it or not.

WONDER: does the acetone eat/disolve rubber components adhering to metal, ie steering wheel, Thanks Gerry

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buckrancher

I have found that a mixture of oxygen and acetyene works best

Brian

Tried that once and sat the sterring wheel on fire, Thanks anyway, Gerry

commom sense says do not use on plastic parts

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SousaKerry

Well they both smell like cancer so it's a tossup, What's the old adage if it smells terrible and tastes worse it must work.

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AMC RULES

I have found that a mixture of oxygen and acetyene works best

Brian

Tried that once and sat the sterring wheel on fire, Thanks anyway, Gerry

commom sense says do not use on plastic parts

:)C'mon now Brian...where's the fun in that? :angry-extinguishflame:

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buckrancher

I use PB at home but I perfer starrett M1 have used crc 5-56 and wd40 never tried kroll

about the only thing any of these penetrating oils are really good at is freeing up your wallet of some loose bills

they only really work on parts you can slighty move ( bolts & nuts,pins etc.) with some slight movement you can work the oil

between the two pieces but if two pieces are solidly rusted together (fifty years on a wheel horse tractor that been sitting in a hedge row for the last 5 years most of the time calls for much more drastic measures :tools-hammerdrill:

Brian

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smoreau

Tried them all and have to say a cheep brand that my boss gets made by Master works the best for me. We also have Kroil oil and don't use it much as the boss tells me it is too expensive to use all the time. I get paid by the job, so if it doesn't come out with the cheep stuff, I try a little heat. If it brakes off then I will extract it by welding a nut to it and cooling it with cheep master penetrating oil and it has worked great for me. Most of the time you just need a fine thin lubricant to make it tread off easier. As for kroil creeping into the threads, I don't have that kind patients for it to work. the quicker I get the job done. the more money I make.

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Terry M

This is the stuff I like to use. Works pretty good!!! :handgestures-thumbupright: :tools-wrench:

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6wheeler

OK, I have to agree with Brian and Scott, except I always throw in a BFH. If (and I usually do) wreck the part? So what, its off. I will figure out what to do next. Pat

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groundhog47

I have found that a mixture of oxygen and acetyene works best

Brian

Tried that once and sat the sterring wheel on fire, Thanks anyway, Gerry

commom sense says do not use on plastic parts

Hopefully you realize was being fecitious, am quite aware out the FLAME torture, Gerry

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groundhog47

OK, I have to agree with Brian and Scott, except I always throw in a BFH. If (and I usually do) wreck the part? So what, its off. I will figure out what to do next. Pat

Been there and done that also and at least saw what was causing internal problem, some, parts cheaper than whole unit,Thanks

Gerry

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groundhog47

Tried them all and have to say a cheep brand that my boss gets made by Master works the best for me. We also have Kroil oil and don't use it much as the boss tells me it is too expensive to use all the time. I get paid by the job, so if it doesn't come out with the cheep stuff, I try a little heat. If it brakes off then I will extract it by welding a nut to it and cooling it with cheep master penetrating oil and it has worked great for me. Most of the time you just need a fine thin lubricant to make it tread off easier. As for kroil creeping into the threads, I don't have that kind patients for it to work. the quicker I get the job done. the more money I make.

Gotcha, that's a good thought, and have seen elsewhere saying let it soak awhile while customer barking up "when you gonna have it done", thanks for input, Gerry

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groundhog47

I use PB at home but I perfer starrett M1 have used crc 5-56 and wd40 never tried kroll

about the only thing any of these penetrating oils are really good at is freeing up your wallet of some loose bills

they only really work on parts you can slighty move ( bolts & nuts,pins etc.) with some slight movement you can work the oil

between the two pieces but if two pieces are solidly rusted together (fifty years on a wheel horse tractor that been sitting in a hedge row for the last 5 years most of the time calls for much more drastic measures :tools-hammerdrill:

Brian

Yup, gotcha there, mine has seen that neglect, but only 13 yrs, so both us are suffering. Amen on the wallet cause I previously bought both. Thanks for input

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groundhog47

Well they both smell like cancer so it's a tossup, What's the old adage if it smells terrible and tastes worse it must work.

Didn't notice smell until washed up to eat and couldn't shake it. Grandson had already said "it stinks", my old nose took a lot longer to smell it, Thanks, Gerry

This is the stuff I like to use. Works pretty good!!! :handgestures-thumbupright::tools-wrench:

Haven't seen the Sili kind before, Thanks, Gerry

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perry

i switched to fluid film. thicker than PB , doesn't run off and stays on the part and works great

http://www.fluid-film.com/

fluid-film-gear-patrol.jpg

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btrrg1969

kroil because its made here in Nashville, TN

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buckrancher

i switched to fluid film. thicker than PB , doesn't run off and stays on the part and works great

http://www.fluid-film.com/

fluid-film-gear-patrol.jpg

Hey Perry is'nt that the stuff that made from goat fat or somthing like it?

I have a new can of it somewhere have not tried it yet i heard it's a good rust preventive

Brian

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