Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
alan8three73

520-H Onan PTO Whining/Whistling Noise

6 posts in this topic

I have a 520-H with the P220 Onan motor. For a while it's been whining/whistling when i engage the pto, but as soon as the pto's fully engaged, the noise goes away. This weekend however, the nose persisted for about 10 minutes while i was finishing mowing. It did the whining in the winter with my 2-stage blower hooked up (again, just while it was being engaged, but once fully engaged it was ok). So this weekend the noise became 'permanent' - and i'm afraid it's a bearing that's gonna require a rebuild. It also gets louder with engine speed. Seems the more load is on the pto, the louder and more pronounced it gets.

Is there something I can look at or try to get this to go away without pulling the crank shaft and bearing out? I really dont want to replace the motor.

Thanks in advance!

Alan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I highly doubt it is the main bearing in the engine. When you push the pto lever forward to engage the pto. The pto cone which the belt rides on has 2 bearings in it. There is a needle bearing, and a regular ball bearing. I recently picked up a 418A and at first I thought it was the deck, so I changed the decks and it still persisted. I turned off the tractor and touched the pto cone by the engine it was warm, and I touched it by the stud which connects to the hoop by a pin and burnt my fingers. My recommendation is to take off the pto cone and see if the ball bearing on the end which is held in my snap clips is shot by spinning it with your fingers. You will know its bad if its loose, makes noise when turning it, or is hard to turn. If it is okay it should have extremely little to no play, and also be smooth and quiet.

-Charles

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I pulled the pto cone off today and greased the needle bearings, even though they spun just fine. The other bearing where the pto hook pushed on the pto when its engaged turned but grinded a bit when i spun it. I sprayed every sort of grease and lubricant i could find around it and let it sit for a while. When i put it back, the pto still whined when i engaged it but it wasn't consistently whining while it was running. So i'm pretty confident that if i just got a new cone it would be fine.

Thanks! So glad it's not engine - related :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

No problem, it is easier to just replace the outer bearing it comes out by removing the big snap ring, but I would remove the little one first that holds in the stub shaft.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Can i get the bearing out by myself without a press? I have a bottle jack and could probably rig something up to make a press. Would the bearing come out just by hitting it enough times strategically with a hammer?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

So i replaced the ball bearing, and i still have some whining coming out of the pto. I'm wondering if now its the clutch plate behind the bell housing? Also, i picked up a 2nd 520-H and it's got the same issue, so i can't swap parts... Should i look at the clutch plate next? Maybe replace it? The needle bearings look / feel fine to me. Should i also just replace that to do it?

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

  • Recently Browsing   0 members
     
     

    No registered users viewing this page.

     
  • Similar Content
     
     
    • C121 will not crank
      By kcuttuck
      My 1978 C121 will not start. It will not crank over. The voltage at the battery post on the key switch is 12.3 volts. When I turn the key to the run position the voltage at the battery post on the key switch drops off.
       
      I tested the clutch switch. good
      Replaced the key switch.
      Seat switch is bypassed. 
       
      I am suspecting the PTO interlock switch but I have no idea how it works and how to test it. I am very mechanically inclined but I have never seen a switch like that before. 
       
      Help Please.
       
      Matt
       
       
       
       
    • Onan 20HP for 520 HC (1989)
      By Paul_Aussie
      Hi All,  New to the forum - from Australia and looking for an Onan 20HP for my Wheel Horse 520 HC - I'm not that good a swimmer so someone would need to be prepared to go through the hassle of sending this engine to me in Australia - and to be honest I have no idea of the amount of work/effort that would take from your end there.  I am after an engine that is is good to great working condition too please.  All help/assistance would be appreciated.  I have had my 520 for 14 years and it is a lot like me - looks terrible, old and beaten up but still works great (it doesn't look at all like the ones on the site here - they are like new!!!! congratulations to you all).  i have maintained and had the 520 serviced twice per year (minimum) but just two weeks ago it blew up - short blocks need to be re-chromed so my mechanic tells me (I am not mechanically skilled at all, I may have the explanation mucked up a little/lot!!)  thanks in advance - Paul from Warragul Australia!
    • Cross Reference
      By Schmendrickthemagnificent
      Greetings, I acquired and 1967 wheel horse 657 ... the engine on the thing is a Tecumseh with a Craftsman (very odd and not original I guess lol) mdoel number 143-546122 ... Having a really hard time figuring out the Tecumseh model number, cuz the craftsman site gives me the part list and what not, but most of which don't exist anymore, so wanted to try to find the Tecumseh parts instead of going the way of craftsman...  best I can figure out so far is its an H60 engine... THX
    • Think I killed my Horse - Advice on reviving
      By RedsRider
      First post. Been lurking for a year.
       
      So I caught the Wheel Horse bug last year when I bought a '90 520H. Had about 950 hours. Came with 42" deck and plow. Guy I bought it from was really decent and said that the rear cylinder was starting to lose compression. When tested it was lower than I liked but not horrible. As I recall right around 100 hot, maybe just below.  (Note to self: clean out fins after every use.) The guy also threw in a blown Onan 20 from another 520 swap he had done. I bought this with the full understanding that, sooner or later, I was going to be facing the dilemma I am now facing. Unfortunately, it is sooner.
       
      I ran the tractor all summer, cutting a total of about 2.5 acres of ground every week or so. Was dutiful about clearing fins, but it was pretty dusty a couple times when I cut. Did service the breather once. Fell in love with that machine! Couldn't wait for a snowfall to push it around with the blade. In the mean time the guy I bought from had a 60" deck I had been eyeing when I picked up the tractor, and he offered it to me at a good price. Picked it up, installed it and used it for last cut of the season - a really dusty one, I might add. Ran like a dream! Deck was perfect and cut my time down considerably. I had a little slippage on PTO start up, but once moving, that deck screamed! After that last cut, I parked her in the equipment shed, put some stabilizer in the fuel, patted her nicely on the hood and wished her a good winter until the snows fell.
       
      A few weeks later, I happened to be in the equipment shed and thought I would turn her over just to keep the carb clear. She started, but she was not happy about it. When I pulled her out, it was pretty clear she was only running on one cylinder. After a while I could feel the second one kick in. Hoping against hope, I changed the plugs, thinking one might have gone bad. Nope. So, because I didn't have time that day to fiddle further, I let her sit for a few more weeks. When I came back, I could not get her to start at all, until I took off the breather assembly, and then it was ragged. After a while she would not run at all. Upon inspection I realized that it looked like spurts of fuel were coming out of the top of the carb assembly. Cold compression was 95 on the front cylinder and 5, yes 5, on the back.   
       
      OK, so I've now gotten past denial stage and moved on to acceptance. I need to do something. I have lots of options. I am assuming that I have a valve problem on the engine currently in the tractor. May be something else, but, come on, its an Onan PG 220 and these are fairly classic symptoms... I think I just put it over the edge with that big deck. I probably could have babied it for another season with the smaller deck, but I had to save time!!! I don't really know what is wrong with the spare/part engine the guy threw in, but I am assuming the same thing. (Yes, I know what assuming does.)
       
      So here is (are) the question(s): Do I take these Onans to someone (because the guts of an engine, outside of maybe repairing or replacing a carb, are beyond my current skills set) to try to patch together a workable engine from them? Do I just chuck it and do a complete swap with a new engine? (which I feel fairly confident I could accomplish on my own.) And if so what engine? Options - HondaGX690, a Vanguard of similar size, the HF Predator, and maybe a Kohler.
       
      In giving your advice recognize a few things:
      1. I HAVE the money to go all out on the replacement, but I am cheap as hell. The predator appeals to the second part of that. Have looked at the thread of the guy who did that replacement, so it looks simple enough, but wonder about the long term durability.
      2. Similarly, I can probably afford whatever it would cost to combine engines, but, again, I am cheap as hell. I hate paying someone else to do work for me that I could do myself, or do the substitute of.  Also, I worry a bit about the long term logic of fixing a 25 year old engine with another 25 year old  engine. At the same time, I really loved the way that Onan roared.
      3. I am fairly mechanically capable, but with limited knowledge or tools for progging around in the internal workings of an engine. Hook ups and problem solving for a retrofit should be no problem though.
      4. Time is not a huge issue. I currently have a POS mower that does the job, but, sadly, is not a WH. I want to RIDE again, though....
       
      Hit me with your best shot...
    • 316 ( as US 416) with onan-oil light
      By Uk Nick
      Hi
      Have just got a 316-8 mowed the lawn and then ran out of petrol just as it was getting dusk .
      Now it won't start.
      What I have noticed that I did not before is that when you turn the ignition on the oil light comes on.
      I have looked up the manual which says that on a 312 and 310 if the oil is low the engine won't start.
      Is that the same with the 316-the manual shows that it has an oil  light but isn't specific about what its for( pressure or low oil)
      My question is ,on a 316 is the oil light on when you turn the ignition on ,then goes off as the engine fires up and it gets oil pressure , or if the light is on when the ignition is turned on ,( and the engine is short of oil) the engine will turn over but not start ( as mine does).
      The oil level is just above the minimum on mine at present.
      Any help much appreciated.
       
      Nick