Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
alan8three73

520-H Onan PTO Whining/Whistling Noise

Recommended Posts

I have a 520-H with the P220 Onan motor. For a while it's been whining/whistling when i engage the pto, but as soon as the pto's fully engaged, the noise goes away. This weekend however, the nose persisted for about 10 minutes while i was finishing mowing. It did the whining in the winter with my 2-stage blower hooked up (again, just while it was being engaged, but once fully engaged it was ok). So this weekend the noise became 'permanent' - and i'm afraid it's a bearing that's gonna require a rebuild. It also gets louder with engine speed. Seems the more load is on the pto, the louder and more pronounced it gets.

Is there something I can look at or try to get this to go away without pulling the crank shaft and bearing out? I really dont want to replace the motor.

Thanks in advance!

Alan

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I highly doubt it is the main bearing in the engine. When you push the pto lever forward to engage the pto. The pto cone which the belt rides on has 2 bearings in it. There is a needle bearing, and a regular ball bearing. I recently picked up a 418A and at first I thought it was the deck, so I changed the decks and it still persisted. I turned off the tractor and touched the pto cone by the engine it was warm, and I touched it by the stud which connects to the hoop by a pin and burnt my fingers. My recommendation is to take off the pto cone and see if the ball bearing on the end which is held in my snap clips is shot by spinning it with your fingers. You will know its bad if its loose, makes noise when turning it, or is hard to turn. If it is okay it should have extremely little to no play, and also be smooth and quiet.

-Charles

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I pulled the pto cone off today and greased the needle bearings, even though they spun just fine. The other bearing where the pto hook pushed on the pto when its engaged turned but grinded a bit when i spun it. I sprayed every sort of grease and lubricant i could find around it and let it sit for a while. When i put it back, the pto still whined when i engaged it but it wasn't consistently whining while it was running. So i'm pretty confident that if i just got a new cone it would be fine.

Thanks! So glad it's not engine - related :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No problem, it is easier to just replace the outer bearing it comes out by removing the big snap ring, but I would remove the little one first that holds in the stub shaft.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can i get the bearing out by myself without a press? I have a bottle jack and could probably rig something up to make a press. Would the bearing come out just by hitting it enough times strategically with a hammer?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So i replaced the ball bearing, and i still have some whining coming out of the pto. I'm wondering if now its the clutch plate behind the bell housing? Also, i picked up a 2nd 520-H and it's got the same issue, so i can't swap parts... Should i look at the clutch plate next? Maybe replace it? The needle bearings look / feel fine to me. Should i also just replace that to do it?

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By dhr5050
      I am looking for an engine that will easily swap into my C100 that is not the K241AS. Any suggestions?
    • By D250power
      Hi I am looking for a distributor drive gear for the Renault 800  on the d250.  Also a cylinder head. I lost the gear.
    • By Rob R
      Hi folks Brewster Rob here, was gifted a Cub Cadet LTX 1040 in great shape other then a completely blown 19HP in-famous Kohler Courage SV590, today I acquired a 17HP Pro OHV CV490S in perfect running condition.... so I want to swap the engines. They have identical vertical shafts question is the electrical. The Courage had four wires coming from the engine red/green/white/purple, the Pro has 3 white, 1blk and 1 red.  I also have the alternator and regulator from the blown Courage.... might I be able to swap alternators???  I of course have the old Courage key switch I do NOT have the new engine key switch.........  Need help from the Red Square wizards and PLEASE think about the best result way to go here.... thank you in advance. 
    • By MAD MARK
      Bought this 310-8 for $100 came with a plow but no engine. Just want to put in the cheap HF $99 Predator 6.5hp. Searched on here and found that people have done this but I cant really find any information on what they needed to do to get it to work. Looks like about a 2" engine plate since the height of the PTOs are different and the mounting bolt locations are different. Besides that, any more tips or pointers?
       
      Just making this into a cheap plow tractor, I saw the linkage below the 310-8 is not like below my 312-8. It does not have a chain lift and just a straight bar. I mounted the blade to my 312-8 and it worked fine. Guessing the bar is so I can push down on the blade if need be? Is this something included in the plow package I missed before? Any insight there?
       
       


    • By BigMan-TinyTractor
      ,Hi all...
       
      I bought a D-250 a while back and I really like it but she's got a couple ghost problems that I can't seem to wrap my head around.
       
      I believe that it's a '76. It has the Renault engine in it.
       
      So three different times now... I've hit a small stump, stopping the mower dead in it's tracks. All three episodes were moderately violent. In two of the occasions, it stalled the mower after I disengaged the deck and backed off of the stump.
       
      So here's where it gets weird.
       
      After each incident, the mower would no longer start.  If I pulled the choke all the way on, it'd fire up and rev to the sky... Like sketchy high rpms which all three times was the only way I could limp it back to the barn.
       
      After completing cooling down and tweaking the fuel mixture screw back and forth, I've been able to get it to run well again...
       
      Sometimes I can ease the choke off and the governor goes crazy surging off and on... But in most cases, it simply won't run with the choke off.
       
      So what in the heck does this have to do with the impacts?
       
      The only theory I currently have is that it jolts the fuel tank and fuel filter badly enough to shake up some contamination... But that's just a wild guess. It's also definitely temperature related, because I can mess with carb settings enough to fix it so long as it isn't up to temperature yet.
       
      So there it is... Any of you guys ever heard of a crash related fuel issue?
       
      I feel like I'm going crazy. I know I'm missing something here in the troubleshooting.
       
      Thanks a bunch!
       
      Jacob
×