Paul D. 26 #1 Posted March 6, 2012 Took a trip to Olivet Mi. this weekend to visit Kelly. Got quite the education on Wheel Horses(Thanks Kelly). So anyway after a few hours trading stories I took home with me a rototiller. Spent a good portion of Yesterday afternoon rigging things up and Yes I pulled my snow blower off. Well that may have been a little premature (We got about 4-5 inches last night, Wife told me "I told ya so"). Last night we tried it out just before dark and it worked great! I was really surprised that it didn't hardly make a sound. I was a little worried that my hydro transmission would struggle with running the tiller but it was almost like the tiller wasn't even there. The neighbors probably thought I was crazy running a rototiller while it was snowing but I didn't really care. By the time I would finish up a row it was covered in snow . I do have a couple questions for all you seasoned veterans on how I rigged things up. #1 Is there anyway to put the belt on the pulley without having to pull off the pulley bar(the half circle bar that latches into the center of the pulleys to retain them) #2 Is there anyway to increase the travel of the tiller? In full up its only up about 3" and in full down it's only down about 4" into the dirt. I am running a rockshaft but is there a certain way to set it to get the most stroke? I didn't get a chance to get any pics so I am sure I will catch heck for that but any input would be greatly appreciated!! Paul D. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kpinnc 10,665 #2 Posted March 6, 2012 My tiller has a homemade rear idler, so I can't help you there. On the travel, I added an extra "adjustable" link in the chain that runs to the rear bell crank. It's the link with the threads on one side, whatever they are called. They are about $2 at any hardware store. If I'm driving over to the garden, I put the link higher in the chain to lift the tiller higher. I put the link at the end of the chain when I'm ready to dig. Gives me quite a bit deeper bite by lowering the tiller 2-3 inches. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul D. 26 #3 Posted March 6, 2012 Ive got the adjustable link on the tiller and a clevis on the rockshaft so I can adjust the height there. I was just wondering how much travel I should expect to be able to get without adjusting the chain. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 991 #4 Posted March 6, 2012 theres no way around having to remove thr hoop,thats why its on with hitch pins so it can be removed easy,your travel sounds normal,they dont lift real high in the air Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
farmer 1,075 #5 Posted March 6, 2012 The best bit of advise I could give would be~ when the large tiller pulley just clears ground, make that your maximum depth (gives you about 6" of cut) any lower and the pulley will fill with soil throwing the belt ( and eventally destroying it) As Don said, tine clearance is not great, 4-5" maybe. :thumbs: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul D. 26 #6 Posted March 6, 2012 Thanks guys. Just wanted to make sure I was doing it half way right. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,028 #7 Posted March 6, 2012 Sounds like you had fun, it was great talking to you, but lets do it again when warmer, as for the travel, you have it about right, you have to adjust the chain for more up and down, don't worry about the neighbors mine all look at me funny. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tap53 57 #8 Posted March 6, 2012 Paul, if you want to still increase your tiller height when you lift it, I have an Idea that I used on an Case a few years ago for a friend, Might work for a WH, If so, I will draw a sketch and send. Tim Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul D. 26 #9 Posted March 7, 2012 That would be great. I know I have to put it on a trailer and the extra ground clearance would be great for driving it up the ramps Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tap53 57 #10 Posted March 7, 2012 That would be great. I know I have to put it on a trailer and the extra ground clearance would be great for driving it up the ramps Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul D. 26 #11 Posted March 8, 2012 Finally got around to taking a pic 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,028 #12 Posted March 8, 2012 Looks like it's doing a good job for you Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bowtiebutler956 649 #13 Posted March 8, 2012 Sweet tiller. I want one. Matt :flags-texas: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tim 97 #14 Posted March 10, 2012 take out some of the links and put a turnbuckle in you can tighten and loosen from your seat when you done tilling go to level ground, drop the tiller and then tighten, the tiller will raise higher for travel when tilling just loosen the turnbuckle before you start alot easier than messing with the chain Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 36,940 #15 Posted March 10, 2012 Looks good Paul. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bk-scouter 93 #16 Posted March 10, 2012 Looks like you got the hang of it Paul. Soils looks good, but are you sure that winter is over ???? This is Michigan remember.... -BK Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bk-scouter 93 #17 Posted March 10, 2012 That would be great. I know I have to put it on a trailer and the extra ground clearance would be great for driving it up the ramps You better watch what you wish for on that one Paul. I know when I load up my tractor with the tiller on it onto a small tilt bed trailer, it's always a little hairy backing it down. The tiller has worked as a wheelie bar a couple times when the front tires came off the trailer deck . Lot of weight hanging on the back end. -BK Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,028 #18 Posted March 10, 2012 Front weights are a good idea when running a tiller, hang them on the front or front wheel weights. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul D. 26 #19 Posted March 10, 2012 Great idea Tim. I just picked up a turn buckle at the farm store. I'll let ya know how it goes. As far as the weights I think your right Kelly, it handles just fine tilling without them even when doing untilled land but it sure does steer easy. I'm afraid of doing a wheely off of the ramps Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kelly 1,028 #20 Posted March 10, 2012 I didn't think to say anything about weights, and I have a few sets here, we even walked by them on the pallets with all the weights. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul D. 26 #21 Posted March 10, 2012 Added in the turn buckle. It really helped. I was able to set it so it raised it just short of the pulley arm hitting the back of the transmission case. Here's my ground clearance. Only way to get more than that is to redesign the pulley mounting bracket. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul D. 26 #22 Posted March 10, 2012 Let's try again maybe with the pic this time Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bk-scouter 93 #23 Posted March 11, 2012 Front weights are a good idea when running a tiller, hang them on the front or front wheel weights. I just picked up a set of 8" ones for the front just before winter. I'm looking forward to see how they inprove things during my tilling season now. Paul, looks like that turnbuckle will work out pretty good. -BK Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul D. 26 #24 Posted March 11, 2012 Thinking I might fab something up to hook into the front attach o matic for know. I was also thinking of trying to make a mold up to poor my own concrete wheel weights Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
can whlvr 991 #25 Posted March 12, 2012 i made some up a few years ago,they help alot and cost me nothing as i was pouring some for work anyway Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
