Leaderboard

Today’s letter is “H” Huber built a history of hometown heritage. Huber Tractors: A Proud Tradition Edwin Huber was a blacksmith who developed a revolving hay rake. In 1863, at the age of 26, Huber was granted a patent for this machine. It was the first of the more than one hundred he would receive during his lifetime. Huber Manufacturing Company began in 1874 building threshers and other farm machinery. They started production of portable steam engines in 1877 followed by a steam traction engine in 1878. An important innovation was the Huber patented double pass boiler producing 40% greater efficiency than a straight flue engine. Huber entered the heavy construction- equipment market by pioneering the use of weighted rollers on his steam engines to compact the road surface. In 1892 John Froelich had produced the first successful gas tractor using a Van Duzen vertical cylinder engine. Edward Huber was so impressed with the Van Duzen engine that he bought the company. In 1898, Huber Mfg. Co. produced its first gas tractor. These tractors used a modified Huber steam traction engine frame, transmission and steering mechanism powered by a Van Duzen gas engine. Huber became the earliest manufacturers to mass produce a gas farm tractor having built thirty units. Steam was still king at the time and the gasoline engine tractor needed further development. When Huber returned to gas tractor market in 1911 significant improvements had been made in both ignition and carburetion systems. The “Farmer’s Tractor” had a 2-cylinder engine with 311 CID. It was sold as more or less a portable power unit for belt work. A great deal of testing took place to make the Huber a true tractor. In 1915 Huber brought out a 20-40 2-cylinder tractor with a massive 962 cubic inch displacement engine. The next generation of Huber tractors, the Light Four 12-25, appeared in 1916. This tractor used a four-cylinder Waukesha engine with a 289 CID mounted crosswise on the frame. With the engine being mounted across the frame gearing was simplified. In 1919, Huber upgraded the Light Four using a Waukesha engine with a 365 CID. These high-front wheel models were Huber’s first truly successful tractors with production continuing until 1928. 1929 brought the next generation of the Huber tractor. It utilized the “Wallis U-Frame” method of construction which reduced the tractor’s weight by around 2,000 pounds. Huber used its arched front axle 10-20 Modern Farmer tractor in 1930 then adopted the tricycle design for the Modern Farmer cultivating tractor. Three hundred of these tractors were sold to Farm Bureau as CO-OP tractors in 1935. Modern Farmer L and LC tractors were built up to the end of production in 1942. The final evolution of Huber farm tractors made its debut in 1936 as the Model B. This 2- to 3-plow tractor was Huber’s only styled tractor and was marketed until 1942. Huber farm tractors were produced from 1898 until 1942 when the War Powers Act of 1941 decreed that Huber concentrate on road construction equipment in support of the war effort. After the war, Huber did not return to the farm equipment business. However, the Model B became the platform for the Huber Maintainer, an adaptable road montane tractor. With the many attachments fitted to the machine, the Maintainer became a motor grader, a loader, bucket, bulldozer, side dozer, scarifier, berm leveler, road sweeper (broom) and a sickle bar roadside mower. Production of the Huber Maintainer ended when the parent company, ATO, closed the doors to the manufacturing facility in 1984. Edward Huber was a civic leader guiding the city into the industrial revolution. He was instrumental in the building of the Marion Electric Company, the Marion Street Railway, the Marion Oil Company, the Marion Tool Works, and the Prendergast Lumber Company. He founded the Marion Building and Loan Company and the Marion Malleable Iron Company.

Picked up a pretty rough Commando 800 from Paul @PWL216 at the Zag show. Been tinkering after work on it all week. The original plan was to just repower with another 8hp Kohler but one thing about those little 8s, they all want to run. So, spent some time on points clean, solenoid, oil change and a new carb to just to see what's up and got her fired up. Starts quickly, runs smooth and no smoke. A bonus! The hood was damaged a bit so got that straightened out so it fits, some tires with air in them and it's running driving and much better than expected. Some of the guys that saw it might not recognize it now. There's still a bunch of stuff to do but it should be a great little snow plow machine for someone looking for a worker. Citrus paint remover works well for getting rid of that rattle can hack spray. All the decals were covered. The blade that was planned for another little 2 seater rear fender will be sacrificed for this one and I'll find another. Running and driving now and the steering is really tight. Actually drives pretty nice with smooth shifting and excellent brakes. That's just a temp battery on the front of the blade frame for now. Basically a B-80 now

Ok, I have to Fess-Up. The grandkids love "Nanny's" Blackberry Custard Pie. She makes 5-6 pie crust ahead of time and freezes them. So when I brought the big bowl of berries in, she said she was going to make the Grandkids a pie since we wont be home to have them over this Sunday. So, I mentions that she already had extra crust made, how about making one for US. Here's a lesson for you guys that will be grandpa's soon, It may be stooping low, but Riding on the Nanny-Grandkids coat tails is a fairly successful way to accomplish many things! pies, extra tractors, extra tool sets, etc.

What is Paul doing with MY plaque?

Honestly I would stick with the original if it works... Yes bending things is the new cheap way to adjust. I have had bad luck with regulators lately. Fail after only a few hours...

Yes sir, connects with standard axle hitch. Only drawback would be the weight if used with manual lift. Definitely would need "Dial-a-height" for manual lift to set the cut depth.

Got a section of blade from Don (Lee1977) and built a grader with it. Has five positions and weighs close to 100lbs. Handle allows for repositioning from the seat. Side plates are removable.

Being that this is a Wisconsin engine mated with a Kohler generator, the likely hood of the crank & gen shafts being one piece is low. I would venture to say that it will have a tapered end on the crank shaft. Don't know for sure without taking it apart. Also not a big issue thanks to adaptors from taper to keyed shafts. A far as converting it to gasoline - It looks like they simply plumbed the LP into the intake and used the original carburetor to meter the air. Simple task when you only plan to run the engine at one speed, as you would do with a generator. The original carb might still work if you plumbed gas to it. The timing may have to change but they might have just left it as it was. We used to convert Vanguard engines to LP, all we did was add a plate under the carb to give a place to plumb the LP in. Did not change anything else on the engine. Kohler LP engines came with different heads & flywheels. The different fly wheel was to change the timing. The heads had harden valve seats & higher compression, but still used a basic plate under the carb to get LP in. Design variables on the Wisconsin are unknown to me, sorry.

Many times whoever, the crank is a tapered end shaft and a snug (press like) fit. I tagged Dan, and he’ll get here eventually. He works at a big genny manufacturer blowing up new ideas in the R&D lab. He’ll know.

@Achto… Propane runs a higher compression. The heads have smaller chambers generally. You can run LP heads in gasoline applications, but you may find you need higher octane fuel. Timing may be set differently, but it is able to be changed. In high school, I had an S10 Blazer mud truck with a 366 tall deck big block Chevy that ran on propane. I read that I could get 15% more power by converting it to gas. I had it blown up within a day or two of my “conversion” by tosssing a 4 bbl carb on and running it.

Food for thought. Not to discourage, but to encourage plenty of research. If you're considering removing the generator from the engine you should be aware that ~some~ generator sets use the engine crankshaft as the mainshaft. One continuous piece. Others have a two piece main shaft but will NEED to be balanced by a professional engine shop or it will destroy the engine. Because it's a Kohler generator powered by a Wisconsin engine one would think it was separable. Personally, I find it interesting and odd that a manufacturer who made their own engines would use that of the competition. If there's a way to get a Spec number from the ENGINE then maybe you could determine if the original build was for gasoline, propane, or flex. That was common even then.

I thought that was somebody on a Wheel Horse ahead of you going out the other side of the bridge…

Getting the 420 show ready

When i bought me the Subaru i found few minor issues, i knew when i buy it. the last few day‘s i was able to solve them except... yeah except the Cruise control functionality. ok not too bad for me but i want that all the gimmicks work as they should. so today i investigated what‘s the issue. firstly i again check all hoses and pipes - they be fine. Than i checked the wires for scratches or shorts - here i found an issue on the Clutch Switch. It want work. A quick lurking on the pedal seems all is fine. When i pressed the clutch switch by fingers it does work with the pedal it won‘t. a closer investigation ( it‘s a dang small area there) shows me a hole in the pedal where the switch shall be pressed. it seems they have a small rubber dot, what gives the switch it‘s trigger. i checked all my ressources and found a rubberpin from the old Astra, what was originally a distance spacer. it fits in the hole and now the trigger acts like it should. The final testdrive give me the sucess to that story. now all is working as it should. small cause but big effect.

I’ve got a long way to go before mine’s ready.

I don‘t know exactly how the wisconin Engines works but the Basics should be identical as on other fuel/lpg Engines. Most Egines i know can run on both gasoline and lpg ( propane) typically it was the ignition wich must be retarded little bit on gasoline. About 1-7 deg as a rule of thumb. the intake valves and their seats was mostly inforced on pure propane engines, to handle the different heat dissapation better. ( lpg generates more heat when burning) The knock can be appear much earlier with low octane fuel but that can be prevented. To dealing with that issue an ignition retard and as @Pullstart allready suggesting a litle thicker head gasket will drop the compression ratio down. That prevents the knock ability. Most troubles with lpg engines i knew, comes firstly up on permanent higher revs, as result of the higher exhaust heat. Lpg engines have different types of how they work, so they have more or less powerloss compared to fuel. If they use a lpg heater to inject preheated damped gas, the propane was sent thru a heater and after it, it just suck the gas mixture like a carb but with a nozzle instead that acting if the suction is happen. Another solution is the fuel like injection what works like a actual fuel injection where a injector nozzle is directly mounted short before the intake valve and spit liquid lpg as close as possible into intake. the last version is the better solution because of less powerloss. At all it can be said fuel engines they run on lpg needs little more lpg but the burning is much cleaner and hotter. That reduces gunk in combustion camber but the lpg itself can provide some gunk in the preheater over time and a LPG Filter imho is recommended. if the diaphragma of the preheater is fine i would keep it on lpg.

You've put in YUOR order for Mother's Day!

I think the B series were at peek of design by Wheel Horse. Simple by design but hard working tractor with a rock solid eight speed and of course a K Kohler... And as we know but other manufactures wish they built them this way.

Also guessing switch as there definitely should be 0 v in the run position, and voltage drop is resistance somewhere. Voltage drop could be through the wiring and safety switches but the key switch cuts all voltage in the run position

I might have one that will work. Parts listings show the same PN for the one I have and a 73 C-160. I can get pictures this weekend (I hope).

I would think you shouldn't have any voltage at the small wire of the solenoid in the run position. Plus the low voltage indicates major voltage drop. I'm guessing your switch is kaputski.

there, I fixed it!

Hmmm. Now you’ve put this in my head and I’m going to have to find a rhubarb & strawberry pie.

Put another 12 miles on my bike yesterday. So far I’ve ridden 70.48 miles (since spring and warmer weather started) with an average speed of around 11 mph.

That could be interesting

We have about 25ft of black berries trellised on a fence. I think this is their 5th year. They are loaded this year. I started picking them mid last week. Now I’m getting a gallon size bowl every day. My wife freezes them spread out on a flat pan. She used them for pies and smoothies. I have to set my fresh bowl of them aside before she gets to them. I’m being extra good this week as I’ve put in an order for a black berry custard pie for this weekend.

Many of these articles mention the transition from steam to gas power around the turn of the century. I wonder, if at the time, how much resistance to the internal combustion engine was going on? Like today's resistance to electric. Do you figure in 80 years some tractor person will be writing about the evolution of the electric tractors during our times? This might just be one ad.

thank you @Pullstart , i will let you know how it goes

Hmm engine crank and genny might be one piece... Never considered that but that why I brought this question here to folks that know their stuff. I sent a message for the motor ID plate before I get my hopes up further.

You got this, it’ll fit that way. Make sure you have sturdy ramps or a way to lift them! This is my RJ in the bd of my truck sideways. I have a 9” deep transfer tank up front and plenty of room for my trailer hitch. The 702 will fit fine behind it.

I retired last year after 52 years of work. The past few years I did smaller to medium size carpenter/handy man jobs. Smaller jobs that I and my helper of 13 years could handle. I'm still receiving calls and this past week I received a call asking if I would do a job for them. Explained that I was retired. Usually the next question is, "Where can I find or who do your recommend?" I've been suggesting they contact an old timer at local lumber yard. He knows who is dependable and trustworthy. Years ago our town had an annual festival. The festival produced a small newspaper and asked locals to donate by buy an add. So, I put my name and phone number in the paper. Soon the local phone company called and told me that because I was advertising that I would be required to get a commercial line. They didn't believe me when I explained it wasn't necessarily an advertisement but helping fund the festival. Finally, relenting I agreed to host a commercial phone line but I wanted it as an unlisted phone number. The sales lady said that was not wise. After I explained my rational for not needing one, she finally agreed to not make me purchase a commercial If I promised not to advertise using my phone number . My rational: I had all the business I could handle and was turning folks down. I explained that a commercial line would likely result in getting calls from individuals who were only seeking prices (such as insurance jobs) and not serious about me doing the work. From then on, I only placed my and my wife's name in the festival paper--with NO phone number. Several customers gave me keys to their property and when then needed something I had access. I returned several sets of keys last year. I like meeting former customers uptown and treating each other like old friends.

The hardest part of rebuilding the valve is taking it out and putting it back in. The actual rebuild is very simple.

Bernardston engine show is less that 2 hours away, just say'n

I agree. Who needs the starter trying to turn once the engine is running. Now, the small/+ wire at the coil, that’s a different story. That said. I’d say you might have a well-past-its-prime battery that doesn’t have the guts to deliver anymore. @pfrederi can jump in with his plaque image

Yeah, got aggravated and walked away. Plan to load up the wiring diagram on my iPad and get into it again this weekend. Came to me with messed up wiring, so it’s going to take some time to figure out.

I get a ton of work done with my 502, with an 8 horse engine and an 8 speed. It’s practically a B-80 for all intensive purposes. The 10 hp Kohler has a shorter stroke than the 12, 14, and 16 hp big block singles. It should sip less fuel by comparison than its big siblings, but have even more torque than the 8 hp small blocks. Perfect chores combo!

I built a little exhaust for a coworker of Mrs. P. He’s got himself a very clean original Ranger. 2.3L 5 speed. It sounds pretty ok and was in his budget. I told him of my under vehicle inspection, let him know a rear end oil change and a new gasket would be a good weekend project for him. He’s learning to tinker.

Isavetractors carries parts for Magnum twins. I'd start there.

Been thinking of putting up my custom built tractor for trade . It has a kohler k181 that’s been converted to fuel injection with a turbo . It runs excellent and is a head turner at shows . It can be hauled to the big show in June . Open to talk trades . IMG_4914.mov

Actually I think that he on the manual is a she with a shag haircut.

That guy on the manual wearing a helmet ??

I was under the impression that the feature tractor was an automatic?Bills looking for a picture of an 8-Speed Apparently now I’m restoring the wrong tractor? 😂😂

Like I said..... @Pullstart next build.

I wasn’t feeling the greatest today so instead of wasting a good day inside and doing nothing I decided to practice a bit of CAD. I designed up this hood ornament then sent it over to my 3d printer. Once it was done I sanded it and primed it. Next up is paint.

It took a little digging but I found it. It’s a 2 cylinder CB 500 on a 8 speed c-120! I can pop wheelies with a stock 16hp 8 speed, imagine the wheelies when you drop the clutch.

Not today, but last Sunday… Road trip to @Lee1977 / Don’s and him and me took a trail ride around his woods. Had a great time ! IMG_3829.mov IMG_3830.mov

We cut a deal on another vehicle for our fleet today. Got a 2022 Pacifica mini van. Came out of a rental fleet. Is very clean and straight, and appears to have ALL of the options. We are going to be at least a month figuring out all of the switches, buttons, and menu levels on that cursed touch screen. Plan is to use it for car camping on longer trips, making it easier to travel with the dog.

A good string trimmer can have a lot of oomph, for sure! An organization I help with their mechanical equipment did manage to wreck a nice strong Stihl string trimmer--ran it on regular gas (no oil) for several hours and seized it up. New cylinder and piston are available, but with regulations to ban gas-powered trimmers and blowers on the near horizon in our area, plus thoughtless users, it’s time to go battery for them.

Took the 1075 out of the garage today for the first time in a while. It fired right up. This is the closet thing I have to a hot rod. Big block, short frame, stack exhaust, baby moons, custom decals, nice petina. What's not to like about it ?