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Finally got the 953 mostly done. Been a long one but worth it. Still have some small issues and details to get sorted out but 98% complete

In my opinion that is the first entry for the 2027 Red Square calendar. @ebinmaine, let BBT know that we have the Cover photo already submitter.

Get an inline 1/4 marine primer bulb. This is a common issue with any of these tractors with the fuel tank under the seat. 2-3 squishes before before starting and it'll likely start on the first couple rotations. Saves your starter, saves your battery, does wonders for your sanity...

80-90 gear oil. I use Lucas, but any will do.

And yet, no proof in a picture.....

Who all gets their Horses out in a Parade? I recruit local teenagers and neighbors to drive some and they have so much fun. (It’s also good for when I am out making so much noise working on them that neighbors are more forgiving, lol) plus it gets them out for a good exercising.

Well finally today I got around to working on the 417. First I drained all the old gas out and replaced the fuel filter. Then took the carb off and cleaned it. And once the system primed it fired right up! I drove it around for a little while to get the oil nice and hot and changed that. I also greased it and adjusted the motion control cam plate. I gave it a quick bath and degreasing. I think when I washed it even though I was careful I got some water in the points so I got no spark now. But tommorow I’ll pop the points cover off then give them a quick cleaning. IMG_2222.mov

May 27, 1949, unemployed 22-year-old model-actress Marilyn Monroe receives $50 for posing nude for a Los Angeles photographer against a red velvet backdrop. The picture will go on to become the most famous calendar photo in history and the principal attraction in the first issue of Playboy magazine. While many people would profit from the photo, Monroe never received more than the original $50.

Here's mine:

Here ya go, the family friendly version.

For a couple more bucks you could buy a whole parts tractor.

If both the c100 and the c160 are the same type of transmission, then yes. That's quite a high price. You probably would be a lot better off to place an ad in our classifieds. For that amount of money, I would personally be elated to send you one.

DO get a switch with an amperage rating more than adequate for the max current the actuator draws.....

Just to add on to @ebinmaine here... The arrow is pointing to the oil fill/level check port used on Unidrives before dipsticks came into use and there was an overlap for a few years before it was removed from the casting. With the plug out, oil should be just about to overflow out when full. Oil level at rest inside does not reach into the axle housing but in motion, oil finds its way through the inner axle bearings and to the outer bearings behind the seals. You might be surprised how close to the bottom of the case the internal gears are, i.e. the lowest edges are well submerged in the oil at rest, and they are very good at flinging oil all over the place in there

Do not think so the oil drain looks like it will be on a frame rail. What spec number engine are you working with. Edit: the pan you have in your hand probably is for Cub Cadet or an tractor with the engine mounted fore and aft not cross wise like wheel horse You need #236265 if engine is Spec # 46219

There are lubrication charts and those pages have been added to this file. Click on the picture and two of the thumbnails that come up are the 1972 lube charts. Click on them to enlarge.

I don't have any pics handy but basically I try to tuck the primer bulb in just before the engine, on the starter side. That's only for the reason of practicality of space combined with ease of access to the bulb.

@Fj40z I'd add to @kpinnc 's post. Be sure to get a GOOD QUALITY primer bulb. We've had the cheap ones fall apart in months. Great way to start a fire. Attwood brand is the choice here.

Technically wasn’t today but this past weekend. Changed the oil and put in a new spark plug and air filter on the 314-8. For the plug I went with the Champion RH-10C. Also picked up new belts for the deck and the mule drive but haven’t put those on yet. Watched a few videos on installing those and I hope they’re as simple to install as they seem. Haven’t pulled the trigger and bought the drive belt yet, seems like that could be a job that might end up leading to much bigger things that I might not be up for quite yet. Bought some new rear deck wheels but going to have to do some research on getting those mounted properly. The new bolts they came with don’t seem quite long enough and tightening the bolts up any at all makes them so tight they won’t spin. Really digging this thing so far though, amazing how smooth the Kohler seems even with 1100 hours. Idles insanely smooth, little hard to start if it’s sat for a few days but man do I love it. Really only downfall for me is I like to mow a little on the high side and it seems like around 3” is about as high as you’ll get.

I get it mainly from my dad @Chevy_59 from working in the garage with him and going on roadtrips

Respect your music knowledge. Stacy's mom has definitely got it going on. I'll let those who wish, look the video up for them selves..

Not much time on a work day but trimmed the left foot rest to clear the front hydro lift hose. I had to do that on another and really don't see a good way around it. Salvaged an exhaust elbow from an M10 I had in the garage. Still looking at exhaust solutions and this gives me another. I've actually been spraying that for 6 months or so and an old 1 1/8" axle fit perfectly in the outlet so a little persuasion broke it loose

Interesting topic. I have used a wood handled framing hammer that my Grandpa used when he made mirror boxes for a local company in the 60-70's. I bought a Kobalt framing hammer with a padded steel handle for my tool box about 5 years ago. Grandpa's is probably a 16 oz and the Kobalt is a little heavier. If I go to build something I grab the old one and throw it in my box with the newer one. One of the things I enjoy doing is re-handling tools so I pick them up at flea markets and yard sales.

I did for several years... not anymore... IMG_2211.mov IMG_3318.mov IMG_0423.mov

It’s a good day for a caption this, or better yet how many violations can you find?

Me too

No Correct. That doesn't even get touched anymore. Drain from the very bottom of the transmission. There will be a plug right near the leg of that hitch, on the bottom. Lift the front of the tractor as much as you safely can while it is draining. That gets the oil over the hump in the bottom of the transmission case. Fluid capacity is 2 quarts. Plain and simple.

The image Mr. Richard quoted above… I thought it was the massivest stack yet for a split second!

All that sounds good.

Hi bud . It's really good to be back here . Very busy with life and finally made some time to go through the old girl . -Drained fuel ( only a year old ) let tank dry out and blew out with compressed air . -Made sure there was no fuel in the lines and float bowl , I ran it dry last fall . -Changed engine oil . -Blew out air filter element. -Washed and re-oiled air filter foam. I was going to change the gearbox oil but it's still very clear.

DOT started requiring the manufacturing date on tires in 1971 with a standard format. Initially, this format was a 3 digit code - first 2 digits were the week of the year, the last digit was the last digit of the year produced. In 2000, DOT specified that the last 2 digits of the year produced instead of only the last digit of the year. Given this information, I'll make another guess that the tire is older than 1971 and using whatever dating system that General was using at the time.

@Digger 66 have a regular go over after every usage , engine oil , trans oil , top off tank , 1-2 oz of sta bil fuel storage , other related checks . agree with @SylvanLakeWH on the lucas oil , can verify the climbing charistics , of it , for clean wall flush downs , always clean and clear , also like a fresh shift boot , underside , greased ? so it easily slides over the irregularities of trans , add a large TYE WRAP just above boot happy place , where it wants to stay , mine last for years pete

I have been around nailing with hammers all my life. After baling hay and cutting tobbacco in junior high and that kind of sweaty work, My brother and I were asked to work for a contractor my freshman year in high school. It was so long ago that the lumber was thicker and wider by 1/8th inch. All the nails came in fifty pound boxes and worse than that was having to pound lead head nails through roofing. If the nail slipped off the rib of the metal your thumb looked like a war zone. Then we built a 300x40 chicken house and had to nail coated ceilings on that thing. It was a baptisim of pain but still better than baling hay. The weapon of choice was a plumb sixteen ounce wood handle curve claw. Hammers then were pretty much plumb and Estwing plus whichever company made them for Sears. We drove six inch pole barn spikes with them but I did borrow a hatchet from Dad once or twice. Now we come to today. We see stilleto, Milwaukee, pittsburg and doyle from Harbor freight Klein and on and on. then I see the experts telling us all about swinging a 28 ounce estwing as his first hammer and now swinging another big headed hammer except that its titanium and weighs half as much. The funny thing is, most of these guys are choking up on the handle and have no more power in their swing than I do with a little sixteen. They choke up and have to grip it tightly to keep it from slipping while I sort of snap my wrist and let the bell end of the hammer rotate. My hands are painful from many things but hammer work is not one of them . I did buy a 24 ounce Pittsburg on deep discount for under ten dollars and immediately set to work on it cutting off the meat tenderizer waffle end. If you square your body up to the nail so it hits squarely there just is no need for those ugly marks left by the rough face.. Three hundred dollars plus is not leaving my pocket for some hammer recommended by some guy who has already wrecked his elbow and wrist by showing his buddies that his is longer and fatter than theirs. Hammers are sold by the ounces the head weighs. Add a heavy steel or fiberglass handle and my question is , Did you guys ever think that you are lifting it back up for the next swing? Also has anyone else ever stood behind a nail gun? i see three uses for the nail hammer . Setting sheathing nails on a plywood deck, Setting the first nail on a wall stud , and for the big heavy Estwing, doing form work and swinging from the waist like Larry Haun using that beast like a golf club . Setting rafters and trusses up high is pretty much the always better with just a hammer. Those just happen to be my opinions and I am sure that there is the rare exception of a guy who can handle the big stuff as easily as I handle a sixteen or a twenty ounce. I am thinking about a Klein square face but mostly just because i need a new twenty ounce and i am sure that it will be modified to suit my style. There's my rant and i would be interested to your opinions. FYI, the Doyle titanium 14 ounce will go on saleJjune the first at 30% off the normal price of eighty dollars.I will probably pick one up just to examine it and beat on some oak and possibly return it . Doyle is harbor Freight

That is a beautiful collection you've built. It's great that you give youngins that kind of exposure to this hobby. Thank you.

The craftsmanship of some of the buildings that the CCC built surpasses much of today's construction. I enjoy the stone buildings and structures at our older state parks here in Missouri.

16 oz Estwing was my go-to 30 years of driving nails. I'm not a big guy--150# most of my working years. I bought a Stiletto upon recommendation of a fellow--never used it enough to get my monies worth. The old man I learned the trade from starting in 1971, used a 13 oz hammer--I think fiberglass maybe wood handle. He also preferred wooden folding rule to retractable tape measurers. He folding rule had a brass slide on each end--something that was pretty rare I suppose. It's not that he didn't ever use retractable tape measures, he just like the folding rule and believed that retractable rules were as accurate--because the hook on the end moved. There was no use to try to convince him it was suppose to move. . Hand saws were also always on a job site. His hand saws were sharpened to where they had points like key hole saws. He made me cut all of the doors in a house (to clear carpet) with hand saw so I'd learn how to use one. We laid wood shingles in the early '70's on the upscale homes the old man was building . Our roofing hatchets were light weight compared to the roofing hatchets I've seen in past years. I actually had two roofing hatchets. One had a hatchet so a person could trim wood shingles to fit and the other had the replaceable hook blade for asphalt roofing. We were never allowed to use air nailers on roofs. The Densil, the old man, claimed you didn't have the control of setting the nail right in a shingle with nail guns. So we hand nailed. The waffling on the roofing hammer faces is all worn smooth on my hammers.

Hitch pin is out.

This evening we finished cleaning the cable ends. I built a new positive cable from solenoid to starter. Degreased the starter and engine block where the cables attach. Installed a NOS Cole Hersee solenoid from my parts department. Added a new battery hold down. Used a primer bulb to dump a little gasoline into the carburetor bowl through the upper vent. At that point the ole beast started right up.... and the alternator started smoking. No worries there. I knew that was a high probability. I have a new HD alternator set aside with a new wiring harness. The truck is setting in the front yard waiting to be towed to the repair shop tomorrow.

I am serious, and don't call me Shirley.

You mean there's actually something useful on FB? But seriously, I don't have an account. Did have several years back, but then they decided everyone had to 'tell a story'.

Sold!

My 8 year old Grandson wanted to drive Papa's Wheelhorse. His Dad just picked up a 85 314-8 a few weeks ago. We let him drive it in 2nd High range.

Absolutely! The 318 with the two bottom was my favorite. Great to see you Streetrod

The flowers would grow faster if a wheel alignment was done.😉

My recently acquired B100 was leaking fluid from the right axle seal. Took the tranny apart today in order to investigate why. Think I may have found the issue. Managed to get the tranny washed out & cleaned up. All ready to put it back together as soon as my parts arrive.

Rj-35 original hood weight with original hardware . This is not a reproduction. $450 can be brought to show (860) 681-3610

Lots of progress over the last couple days. Got the replacement motor installed in the C175. Runs like a top. Replaced the leaking axle seal on the GT1800 and finally installed its new shoes that I’ve had settling for 2 years.

I pretty much got it finished up this week. A seat from Matt Castagno, I added seat springs so made a new steering wheel shaft and raised the steering wheel. New decals from Terry and a new headlight lens. A nice original paint tractor with a few added touches. I’m pretty happy with how it turned out.

100863 is 1" ID, 100443 is 1-1/8" ID There should be a cross reference chart pinned to the top of the transmission section. Toro 100864 crosses to NAPA #NOS 9815 Toro 100443 crosses to NAPA #NOS 11050