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Rear axle bracket for XI 518 through 523xi

This afternoon I decided mow along the side of our county road~about 1/8 mile long. One side is maintained by the land owner, the other not so much. The grass is getting knee high-and much of it taller. Our county roads are chip and seal which is nice and the side I was mowing basically has no ditch. It seems the county only mows once a season. The problem with overgrown grass is the road way appears to be smaller and bi-passing drivers hesitate to pull into the edge of the road. I used the 520H and it completed the task quite well. I don't think our zero turn would have handled the job at hand as efficiently and comfortably. Having the weight on the front end and a steering wheel was an asset. For the past several years, I have also sprayed weed killer around the stop sign because the Johnson grass will block the view of traffic until the nose of the vehicle is nearly on the state highway.

Id like to just believe you but... Can't see anything

It depends on the lube you use and how hard you work it. Don't overthink it. Pull the dipstick when you do any service. You'll know when to change it. If in doubt, do it.

Almost done with cutting the tree up. I'm sure giving the 20v batteries some exercise.

May 12, 1994 "Pulp Fiction", directed by Quentin Tarantino and starring John Travolta, Uma Thurman and Samuel L. Jackson premieres at the Cannes Film Festival.

That appears to be a 1960 Suburban give or take... the first "Wheel Horse" was made in 1956. Pics of engine installation / sides & back would be helpful. Also---all 4 wheels and tires are wrong for originality. Be prepared for much lower offers.... Tony

Those two blades look beat up. Have you checked them to see if they are balanced?

On the hydros, just leave the filter loose until you've got at least 4 qts back in it. That lets the air out. Never had to do that on an 8 speed. Air can escape from around the shifter.

Things add up quickly No oil pan gaskets on the shelf so I ordered two, I need solid mounts for the recently acquired c-161 and that isn't even in the shop yet, it needs wheel studs so ordered them from M-C and forgot to order head bolts for the 16 Auto so I'll pay shipping twice for that lack of paying attention. I was going to order a soft start for the electric clutch but I better slow my roll before the Colonel looks at the checking account One potential positive is that the valve lash was out enough to maybe account for some of the rough running. Intake .011 and exhaust .014. They look good and nothing else is concerning so I'll just lap and adjust them until there's a need to go further.

The pto switch gets it's power from the No Mow in Reverse module. I should rephrase that - gets it's power from the ignition switch but the NMR module controls the pto clutch. There is a test procedure for the switch. Click on the picture of it. Module test proceedure

Yeah, I think between that and timing being off a little can take away from performance. I might be overthinking it a bit but we'll see.

Kind of a side note, but I have a '68 Commando 6 that was on the floor for 2 years and never sold, so the dealer put on an electric start 8hp Kohler and swapped the dash for the new plastic style. It was restickered and sold that year. I bought it from the original owner.

That’s my thought as to what happened. Dealer didn’t have a 867 or other but had this 657 and a deal was made.

I wonder if the 6 speed was installed at the dealer as part of the original sale. It's known that dealers in the 60's would change some things around to complete a sale. I find it hard to believe the WH assembly line ground to a halt to install a different transmission and any related hardware.

Was that you I was mounting tires for Richard ... the A60 maybe and brand new ones split wide open? I was mounting the tires on the RJ -35 and used the original tubes since they were the old skool real heavy quality back then type. On one a very small leak... goll dang it... I threw some contact cement on it and stuffed it in. Not for highway use...

My 42RD is just barely audible over the engine noise with stock exhaust. The deck has a very mild hum.

This afternoon I swapped a center spindle out as the idler swap didn’t change the noise from the deck. It is better but I’ll have to mow with it to see if anything changed. At least now I know the center spindle, and idler are greased and both seem to be good. The only other rotating parts are the two outer spindles which they’ll be the next thing to be swapped. I’m at least going to check them out and give them a good clean out if not swap them. I’m just curious though how much noise should these 3 blade 42”deck make? If it’s a hum I’d be good with that. Before I started swapping parts I couldn’t hear the engine at all over the deck.

The plumbers showed up today. Unloaded their mini excavator and waited for all of the utilities folks to mark where their various pipes and wires are located - none of which were in the area where the digging was going to take place. But, tis the law, and better to be safe than sorry. About 6 1/2 feet down, the sewer pipes were located. Big soggy soft spot around the house trap. The trap (clay piece) appeared to have a crack on the inlet side. Lots of buildup in the pipes, suggesting a slow flow for some time. The house trap is now gone, replaced with about 7 feet of 6" PVC and a clean out tee. Back fill is scheduled for tomorrow.

Rarely anything but boots unless I have a tee time Timberland Pro when I need steel toe, McRae in the yard, green and black, and Danner at work if I don't need the Timberlands. Rarely the same pair two days in a row. I was a medic and we just didn't do that so the dogs wouldn't start whining Gotta keep those door kickers healthy

I always take one or both of the bolts out of top of transaxle to let it breath while filling um back up. Just make sure you don't let any trash fall in through the bolt holes especially on the hydro's

Unfortunately don’t have the documents for proof. Only that whom I bought it from along with a D200, told me that the D was used for mowing and snow plowing the property. The 657 was ordered with the 6 speed knowing it was first time available that year and with Sickle Bar for mowing along the road and around a pond. Also with the light kit HL5. I knew about the 5/6 difference. And I couldn’t refute what the seller told me because as I look over this tractor, it is very clean and original. And can tell not very many hours. For a Tecumseh it runs as good as new. Easiest starting Tecumseh I ever ran. The original paint is the cleanest of any tractor in my herd. In fact the day I picked it up, it was covered with a blanket. It was his Grandpa’s favorite. They seemed wealthy so have no doubts that he was willing to pay extra. Would seem that going with the 867 would have been the route to go, but we can never know what was going on at the dealership in that day. Without actually talking with original owner, perhaps the dealer made the swap. I may have misunderstood the list of models with my original post, for I thought it was referencing the models known to have a 6 speed..by serial number. Now I realize it was highest/lowest known SNs. I added the hubcaps from my collection, I need to swap them out with the proper era ones.

Almost done just got to finish the wiring and put new diesel oil in it and finish putting back together

If you do that a couple times and notice that the fluid is staying clear, knock it back to every fourth or sixth. Gear oil in a Wheelhorse manual transmission lasts awhile but obviously contaminants like condensation aren't great. The side fill plug isn't actually the correct fill port for a 6 or 8 speed. That's a leftover from the original 60s casting. Capacity is 2 qts. Fill all from the top. You can make up a specific funnel for the application that has a long straw taped to the inside. This allows fluid in and air out simultaneously.

Depending on the model - I find it easier to remove the shifter & fill thru that hole. The 854 is a snap that way, the C81 is not...

@rmaynard just installed Facet fuel pump on my 520H and I tapped into the hot side of coil (redwire on pump) and just grounded (black wire on pump) under pump mounting bolt and it worked great. Key on pump runs key off pumps is off. also put a 10amp fuse in red wire going to pump from coil...

I do not see the tractor raised so that the wheels can spin freely. Just dropping the fluid and refilling is inadequate to alleviate an issue with moisture in the Unidrive. That leaves too much comtaminated fluid clinging to the innards. A diesel flush is best - but - the Unidrive must be cycled thru all the gears - and hi & low ranges to get the sufficient "waterfall wash". Either by driving it or jacking it up in place. If you want to be amazed with the "waterfall" effect, pull the shifter out while doing the flush & look in.....The differential & gears spinning make for quite the splash.

Part of my job is picking up credit after the work is done. We take pictures of pretty much everything that we do. I showed up here. Park across the street. Nothing unusual. Started filling out the paperwork and I looked over to the pallets that I was about to go fetch and I see this.... Guard cat??!?

Have you determined what you are missing? A gasoline engine needs air, fuel, compression, and ignition. Knowing what is missing will help with a diagnoses. You also mentioned that you thought it may be the starter. Are you unable to turn the engine over with the starter?

Finally decided to remove a Birch tree that does nothing but drop crap all year round. It's about 70' tall. The only tool I had to do the job was a B&D 20v chainsaw with a 10" blade. I was thinking that it was going to take a few days with a small battery powered chainsaw, and 7 batteries. It ended up taking about 8 hours to drop it all the way. I couldn't cut the trunk up all the way though because my batteries all died.

Finally convinced my wife to get rid of her above ground pool. Used the C-141 to drag 5 of these 16" 6x6" beams out of my yard. I'm thinking they might make great posts for a slant roof shelter for my attachments

953 nut, thank you!!! It was the purple wire that was bad. We made a bypass wire with a new diode and it works perfectly. For anyone with the same issue, Kohler makes a kit, part number, 25 755 31-S. Thanks again to all of you for helping me troubleshoot and resolve the issue.

It’s funny you ask… 😎

It's here. Definitely looks a little better in the photos. It's definitely restorable!

Thanks to the dimensional info from ebinmaine and the information previously posted by others I've made some progress on fabricating the grader blade components. Other than the block that the lift arm connects to on the main support arm, it's ready to weld together. The blade itself has previously been fabricated. I'm currently waiting on the plate that bolts to the blade, I'm having it bent to shape in a fab shop close by. After that I'll mill the three slots and make the pivot pin. I'm sure the lift arm won't be exactly like an original, but it should be close enough to function.

can someone please identify this rear axle bracket ? Toro or Wheel Horse ? Era? Tractor model it goes on? Part number? etc ? Thanks, Bill

Hooked up the plow blade with the solid link and did some cleanup of the old pool area. Was just getting the hang of it when I stopped to add gas - BOOM! Damned aftermarket starter took a crap on me