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January 1, 1959, Johnny Cash played his first of many free prison concerts at San Quentin State Prison on January 1, 1959, a pivotal event that inspired a young Merle Haggard, then an inmate, to pursue music, kicking off Cash's lifelong advocacy for prisoners and leading to iconic albums like At Folsom Prison and At San Quentin.

It has new shoes on now and it roll

Make a big old New Years Resolution, Stay off of Facebook!

Yep, I didnt know any of that. Couple of great country music artists right there!

Thanks for the warm welcome everyone! Great info, I think our tractor is pretty complete, except for some consumable parts but who knows what we will find the more we get apart. My nephew bought it at the Badger Steam and Gas show last year and the plan is to have it back at the show this year. Do any of you Wisconsin guys make it to that show? I know there are a couple displays with Wheel Horses there.

Found this kind of interesting. Maybe some of the other old folks here might too. Dolenz, the only surviving Monkees band member, marked the anniversary of the No. 1 milestone with a social media post in mid-December 2025, telling fans, “Hard to believe it’s been nearly 60 years, but this month in 1966, ‘I’m a Believer’ hit #1 on the Billboard Hot 100. I sang it. It was written by Neil Diamond. And it changed everything for us.”

I think we might have a winner!

Put juice to my new headlights on 1257 today. Halogen bulbs and pretty bright, 2nd pic is in shop and pitch dark. Dont remember what the watts are. Thought about going with led bulbs but IDK if it would be worth the extra coin.

You really don't want me to get started about on FB. Way too much molesting and stupid things going on for a purist like me. Just can't take the mauling of thoroughbreds. I had to block all things horse there including RS on FB. I don't know why but when the morons ask stupid questions there I scoff at them but here I gladly answer dumb questions. Only one there with a brain is Bob Ranger. Forget what his handle is here but he is the only one who knows what he is talking about. Posts many references & links to posts here ... I have a feeling most ignore his references to manuals here. Once in a blue moon is there a market place listing to a a horse or implement that needs saving for a fair price. Then there is the guy that has a parts tractor with no motor for absurd money. I once sold a running driving Charger 12 to a guy there for 200. Needed a lot of love it never got but a day later he had it on MP for 500! Called it a rare collectors model.

And the 5xi series hub is tight against the case as well, with a plastic (nylon? delrin?) washer sandwiched between the hub and the case.

No resolution needed here...

Is that a 1 1/8 center? Something you made? 3 & 4 speeds and all hydros were tight to the case. 6 & 8 speeds have room.

I don't think the oil pan shown will be a direct bolt-up to the engine. You have a SMALL BASE engine and a BIG BASE oil pan, not a direct bolt up. Read this thread for better information.

Please feel free to ask any questions you may have and keep in touch. You could start your own build thread and get lots of information from fellow members here. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/forum/45-restorations-modifications-customizations/ Just click on the "Start New Topic" box and you can have your own build thread.

@buckrancher makes very nice covers for those seat pans,

I know Matt makes seat for the 856 and other modles.

This is what I did. Larger diameter plates with the five bolts to the outside of the hub would let it work with studs but just back them out if you need to remove the hub. I've got another blank plate to make a backer that can fit behind the entire hub but I haven't needed that so it's not drilled out. I will if the need arises or I just feel like it. Sometimes there isn’t the clearance between the hub and tranny case.

Some of you members who go to the Wheel Horse show, know my Grandson Mason. Well on December 14, we had our first snow, and Mason has his first time driving in it. Unfortunately, he and his Subaru Outback had an untimely meeting with an F-350 pickup truck, his own. This was in the driveway. The F-350 won. He was quite upset but said that it would be back on the road in time for reopening of schools. So, Mason did not want to report it to insurance for obvious reasons, and he did not want to take it to a body shop, so he proceeded to disassemble it. After determining there was no frame or engine damage, he started his search for parts. He found a bumper cover, left fender, and hood, all the same color. He purchased a new core support and radiator, two new headlights, and a grill. He brought the car over to my house yesterday. The whole job was done outside in 15 to 35 degree weather. Total cost? $1400. That's perseverance.

No damage to the F-350.

This is my 27’ Dutchmen…I was told that tarping it was fine as long as you didn’t completely enclose it, like with a tarp that went all the way to the bottom of the camper or wrapped up under it. Was told it needed to breathe, so I used a cheap tarp that covered the entire roof and down the sides just a few feet.

HAPPY NEW TAX SEASON!

Chris: one thing i do on the steering column after putting on hood is use a two part 3/4 inch collar to secure the steering wheel shaft under the hood! That makes it ten times easier to remove, change or repair the steering parts. They cost less than ten dollars but well worth it. This photo is of a dual collar split but you get the single split collar!

Now that is a cake!!!!

@ebinmaine Lucy pretty much runs the show, at work and at home. She lets me come with her everywhere she goes 😂 When we go to the firehouse most of the guys know her and say hi to her well before me!! My daughter said to me the other day “Do you know you’re Lucy’s bit_ _” 🤣🤣

This is one I used to run all the time on my 857. I have since went back to an original seat 2nd pic, but the 1st seat pictured is really more comfortable, and I swap it back on their sometimes just to save my original. Came from local tractor store and not too expinsive.

Was out around 7am clearing driveway with the 702. Snow was lighter so it didnt do too bad. 7hp is still not a lot to run a blower. I was having fun playing out there. Fortunately, no issues with drive belt this time........🤞 20251231_072629.mp4

I think that is @Lane Ranger

If you prefer too you can just run a slot hitch with a piece of flat stock with two holes. looks like you have the lift cable for a slot. You can also put a a ball on the flat stock for lighter trailers with a ball coupler.

Looks to me like a Brinley hitch for a Cub cadet.

Is it just my femputer or does anyone else see the moving uh squiggle on post 25168, 25170, and possibly this post since I quoted???

Looks like Cub Cadet. Might bring a few $ on Market Place??

As @ebinmaine noted, intended use is everything. The drawbars he pictured are perfect for pulling significant loads but with a light tongue weight--wagons and so forth. (Note: WHs are capable of moving a lot more weight than their brakes can safely stop.) This one is commonly called a Brinly or a clevis hitch. Normally set up to lift and pull. Soil plow, cultivator, rear grader blade, and so forth. Was always an optional accessory. Implement had top and bottom flanges that extended above and below the cylindrical socket, forming a clevis. A pair of adjusting bolts (only one shown) allowed constraining side to side rotation of the attached implement. The second image is an optional plate that goes over the clevis socket and hangs at the back as a sacrificial for absorbing wear from the constraining bolts. This one is called a slot hitch. It handles the same functions as the clevis, but with a different connection to the tractor. It came standard on many tractors through the early 70’s. The implement had a tongue that fit into the slot and was held by a pin. The second image shows a slot-to-clevis adaptor sold by one of our vendors. l If you search the 000’s of posts on this site, you’ll find other creative and practical hitches designed and built by members that attach to the front, middle, and rear of their tractors!

Very nice👍 I have not had to remove a stuck hub yet, but I have often thought of something along these lines. One thing I think I would probably do would be to bore the centre of the puller to suit the diameter of the hub spigot, and then weld something across to carry the forcing screw. Or insert a suitable wheel spacer between the hub and the puller. The idea being to provide a continuous support around the whole hub face?

Depending on what you intend to do. I only know of 4. For general towing ther is one for plowing there is one and for the older tractors there is one that lifts and tows. The "what I would call standard" is most used . I will try and post some pictures 1st pic is what I call standard, 2nd is for lifting plows ect and 3rd on right is part for 2, 4th is pin. for 1st. The other (WHX has good pic above) hitch pic is on a post I just viewed and don't want to swipe it, mine ya can't make out Will try and find post and post a link. Also in BROWSE>MANUALS>IMPLEMENTS ,or misc, you might be able to find more info especially what piece of equipment requires which hitch. Hope that/this helps. And Welcome to RED SQUARE

That's my biggest gripe about FB. I'll see something, then I'll never find it again.

The transmission and frame are together

Must be the way the picture came out, or the guy using the camera

Took a woods cruise today, very cold with a biting wind … but seat time is seat time right! If your wondering why a guy with 9 tractors keeps posting up the same one.. well the others have mowing decks or plows and won’t make it in the woods, and my two ‘67’s don’t get used in the woods for cruising. That black on the front wheel is where it broke thru some thin ice and into sticky mud! Won’t get cleaned till springtime

Might be a little tough to see in this picture. These are tab Style hitches. I'd be happy to send you one for a few bucks plus shipping costs. You would need a Cross Pin to hold it on the transmission and a couple of spacers which are easy to make or purchase. I can get you Dimensions later today or tomorrow.

Hi I’m new to the site, my nephew and I are fixing up an 855 that he bought this summer, it currently does not have a hitch and we are wanting to get one for when it is done. What style does anyone recommend we look for? Thank you.

Rims are painted

The frame, transmission and steering pieces are painted

Chris that is a really nice tractor. You just don’t see too many no names around. I missed out on a 12 last year from the original owner. Enjoy it take care of it and I will take care of you. Happy holidays.

Wasted no time swapping the seat out!

For some reason the bumper tow reminded me of this Mt St Helen picture I saw once.

draw bar ones EB? Don't scrap them @Achto and I hoard them and put them on all our tractors along with a slot hitch.

Looks like a J.C. Whitney universal bumper add on hitch so you can tow a 10,000lb. trailer with 67 Dodge Dart!

I can not count how many times I've been asked about will this engine fit, or will this oil pan fit?? most times the first question I ask is what style block do you have ?? large or small base ?? BUT there is one exception to that rule I will cover that later. I'm writing this post to help clear up that question, first this only applies to 10, 12, 14 and 16 HP Kohlers, they used two style blocks commonly referred to as large or small base blocks. We will start with the large base or eared block used on most WH tractors from 1967 to the last Magnum about 1987, these blocks use the bigger oil pan, and the pan bolts on from the top side through ears on the block, this style oil pan is the one that bolts directly to the frame, the two bolts on the right side that hold it to the frame go from under the frame into blind bolt holes in the bottom of the pan, the pan will hang over the frame some on that side, with the mounting ears on the pan NOT being used. This is a large base block and pan, note how long the pan is and where it bolts to the block Here you can see where the pan hangs over the frame, at this point under the frame is where the bolts go from the bottom in to the blind holes in the pan. The holes outlined in red are the blind holes used to bolt the pan to the frame from the bottom, the holes in green are the ones that hang over the frame. Here you can see the bolts that hold the pan on, going through the ears in the block. That pretty much covers the large base blocks. Next is the small base block used on the shaker plate engines, and some of the mid 60's 10hp engines in WH tractors, this style block is also common in Cub tractors, and others but we are talking WH here. The small base block the oil pan bolts on from the bottom of the engine, it does not have ears on the block, the pan is closer to a square in shape than the large base block, here is a pic of a small base block and oil pan. There are many many styles of oil pans to fit the small base block, other brands of tractors use pans in all shapes, and depths so when swapping this style pan you have to watch how long the oil dipper is on the bottom of the connecting rod, it can be cut to fit a shallower pan, WH used two basic pans on this engine a very shallow pan on the early 10 hp and a mid depth on the shaker plate engines. This pan is a shaker style pan used in the late 70's early 80's on the shaker engines This pan is the flat bottom style used on the 1045, 1055, 1075 and 1046 also used on many Cub engines and other brands, the dipper on the connecting rod is very short on the engines that use this pan. This is a deep pan on a Cub engine, I do beleive it uses the same dipper as the large base blocks with the big oil pan. Here is a shot of both styles together, to give you a idea of how the blocks look side by side, note on the large base block the cut outs at each end, I will be talking about them and the 4 holes you see where a small base oil pan could fit with a few mods. Here are the pan gaskets side by side and over top of each other. Ok now we will talk about how a small base oil pan can be used on a large base block, note the red circles they point out the cut outs in the block where the small oil pan will not seal, this area can be filled up with JB weld or other compound that will stick to metal and take the heat, then note the green circles they show the holes that will need to be tapped to bolt the pan to, so far all blocks I have seen have the holes but are not tapped, with these mods a small pan can be used on this block, also if needed you could cut most of the ears off the block. Now some blocks (very few) are set up from the factory to except both style oil pans, most common found on JD tractors as they use a shaker mount set up that uses the ears on the block to mount it but still uses a small oil pan, here is a duel pan style block note is does not have the cut outs in the block like a normal large base block does. Just remember to check the dipper on the rod, to long and it will hit the pan, to short and it may not splash lube properly. I hope this helps clear up a few questions about block styles and how they differ