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Hello everyone. I already posted a couple posts and became a supporter, so I figured I should introduce myself. My name is Brett but everyone calls me Buck. Nickname from my childhood and now I’m 47 and still have it. I used to be in the hobby big time. My dad, uncles, and cousins all had wheel horse tractors. I had 36 of them. Between all of my family members and I, we had over 200. I bought a house, got married, and had a daughter. The tractors sat and didn’t get ran so I sold them all except three. That was in 2016. This spring, the boy was out in the shed and wanted to get one of them out and running. Well we got all three of them running and he was hooked and it all came back to me! So in the last month or two, I’ve bought a 753 that I rescued from someone’s woods, a 500 special and a B-80 out of a barn, and a 701 at the big show! So I’m back collecting and searching. I get to do it all with my boy and get to meet great people who enjoy the same things! Thank you for having this group!

During the WHCC show at the fairgrounds, there was another show just 20 minutes away in Gettysburg!

June 30, 1953, workers at a Chevrolet plant in Flint, Michigan, watch as the first completed Corvette, a two-seater sports car that would become an American icon, rolls off the assembly line. It was one of just 300 Corvettes made that year.

And then there is the guy who goes to the junk yard, removes a couple tires from a crown vic and never has any issues! I know when pulling with a load I stop every couple hours and put my hand on the tires and hubs checking for excessive heat. There was one time i found a hot one and it was under inflated. must have missed it when I was doing the pre-trip. I had one of those cheep o compressors and 20 minutes later good to go, next stop no heat.

The newest addition to my team needed a transmission fluid change pronto! “1978 C-81”

My tractor had the same round lights, they got old and burned out. Rather than replacing them I found new LEDs that looked very similar. Since this tractor is my work horse, the LEDs were a very functional upgrade.

Something tells me you didn't spend the afternoon on a black roof in this heat!

Old gear oil out, then a kerosene flush and drain…now the fresh stuff goes in. 1978 C-81

Some top 10 suggested trailer tires along with some basic use aplications. Goodyear Endurance Often considered the gold standard for travel trailers and heavy cargo loads. It features Goodyear's Durawall technology for sidewall protection and runs cooler over long hauls. It is Speed Rated "N" (up to 87 mph). [1, 2, 3, 4, 5] Carlisle Radial Trail HD A staple for boat, RV, and livestock trailers. Known for its exceptional heat dissipation, heavy-duty ply construction, and resistance to curb impact and punctures. [1, 2, 3, 4] Trailer King RST II An upgraded version of the popular Trailer King RST, known for its excellent heat-dissipation design and steady, straight-line tracking. It is highly favored for continuous highway travel. [1, 2, 3, 4] Sailun S637T An all-steel radial tire designed specifically for heavy-duty commercial applications, large multi-axle trailers, and heavy RVs. Highly durable and able to handle massive weight capacities. [1] Power King Towmax STR II A reliable choice designed for travel trailers and high-capacity towing. It provides superior stability and boasts a robust tread design that ensures extended tire life. [1, 2, 3, 4] Westlake ST100 Equipped with dual steel belts, making it a great option for heavy RVs, toy haulers, and flatbeds. It resists uneven wear and handles highway speeds well. [1] Gladiator QR25-TS Built with a highly robust construction designed to handle 5th wheelers and heavy cargo hauling safely. It prioritizes sturdy load ratings and impact resistance. [1] Thunderer ST Radial R501 Features deep tread optimized for long-haul highway towing, ensuring smooth rolling over thousands of miles. [1] Triangle TR653 A multi-purpose utility trailer tire recognized for solid shock absorption and reliable traction in both dry and wet road conditions. [1] Kenda Loadstar (Bias/Radial) A versatile option that is offered in both radial and bias-ply options, highly popular for boat, snowmobile, and utility trailers. They feature a flatter tread profile for better weight distribution and wear. [1, 2, 3, 4]

That's no problem long hauls I always throw a torque wrench in. It's the collateral damage when running the mayblow brand. That's what @Andy N. said once now lookit what he bought. He showed up more than once at show with a u haul. It's actually not a bad idea for the 2-3 but I come from the I need it it's there school. And who checks the tire pressure lug nuts?!? I typically run 5 psi less than max figuring going to max when running the interstate at 70 and 90 out.

Ah, but how old are the tires on the rental???!!

I run Goodyear and change every 5 years or so... Plus I think anecdotally, the quality is not what it used to be... I am actually thinking of selling my trailer and just renting one when I need it... 2-3 times a year ain't worth tires bearings and storage... probably won't but ...

I was contacted this afternoon by the club, it’s official that I won, and that it’s in storage until next Big Show!

And yes, if this was a worker I would have kept the headlights. But it’s pretty much just a show cruiser. Occasionally I’ll hook up a trailer and move firewood but never at night.

I considered buying a Corvette in 1970 until my insurance agent explained that I had to choose between a Vet or eating, at 25 with a few moving violations on my record insurance was going to be more than the car payment and my mortgage combined. The new Chevy pick-up I bought instead was real nice.

So the enclosed trailer that @Achto and I took out to the BS needs new shoes in ST205-75R 15 but on the fence about what to get. If money was no object I would get Goodyear Endurance but at $186 a tire it's a tough pill to swallow for a trailer that sits most of the time. Or go with a cheaper probably offshore one. The price range on tires is so wide... $70 apiece to $190. No matter what brand load range D speed rating 80 minimums. Keep in mind I have three tandems to keep shoes on plus two singles. Camper toy hauler always gets the premiums do to the damage that is possible with a blow out. @Pullstart and @jeremi3210 might know a thing or two about that. Trailer gurus say change tires every three years with better ones every five years. I do generally carry a spare especially on long hauls. Pics for attention.

I remember that line. Russell wasn’t my favorite for much of his comedy, but this was a good one.

They use a battery style ignition switch to power a kill relay to control the magneto ignition.

Dick, ON Friday Group #35 @MZirbel Mason Zirbel, New Windsor, MD Saturday #19 @MZirbel Mason Zirbel, New Windsor, MD

Why don't you quit screwing around and step it right up to a 24. Imagine all that extra speed.

Once I’m done servicing the C-81 it’ll get the new “racing” 23’s

I did try to bend it back in line a few times.. almost but not quite. I bought that used set off ebay cheap, and now its lined up almost perfect.

That's why you see the tire cover booties on motorhomes & campers. There is no excuse not to check & adjust the cold tire pressures before heading out.... and being adequately prepared to loose one (or two) along the way. Besides, do you really want to listen to your better half constructively carring on (whining) while you change a flat??

I have also experienced the dreaded blow out and "collateral damage". I bit the bullet and got the Endurance for both my trailers that get used most often but put chinesium's on the travel trailer that we don't move from our property possibly two to three times a year. Difficult for me to replace a tire at three or five years that shows little or no wear, but I guess that's the price we pay for peace of mind. I feel better on the highway towing with the Goodyears. We had a flat then a blowout on travel trailer (spare was really old) and thought "Good Sam" roadside would save us. They quoted $795.00 and three hour wait to bring me a Walmart trailer tire. So remember to upgrade spare as well.

YUP - does it have over 1100 hours on it? That seems to start the countdown clock on them to the issue at hand.

Might just be the valve seat let go. Is it the rear cylinder that’s at 0 psi?

Here is the main part of the speed problem. The throttle cable is on the bottom, goes to the black spring which goes to the governor arm which goes to the throttle plate. You push on the gas pedal and it is 2/3 of the way before the throttle moves. Top rpm is around 2300, idle is 1400 rpm. I pulled the spring and put stiff wire in, that livened things up. 4200 rpm and no governor at half throttle pedal. That got me to about 20 mph. Looks like a shorter spring might work.

Here is the steering system. In the second picture the tie rod comes from the front through the hole in the middle of the picture, goes to the lever which swivels at the top of the picture then heads toward the on the bottom tie rod. The third picture shows the rear tie rod attach point, also the articulation "hinge". The last picture shows the rear tie rod and the swivel.

This was my first time back since 2002. It was just like I remember except more tractors and more great people. My wife, son, and I had a great time! I really enjoyed every minute of it with them and meeting some new people. I talked to Wild Bill quite a bit and caught up from 20+ years ago. Just everything was great about it! To all the people who volunteered, worked, or did anything to make it happen, THANK YOU! We will be back next year!

Brad, I'm very glad that you were able to make a worker out of that B-100. Here is what it looked like when I found it - PO said it had been sitting for a "couple of years".... I like the new muffler you put on her.

Welcome! We're happy you're here.

I have had several inquiries about welding in the Reinforcement Plate I make for both the short and long frame tractors. Even though the frame on my latest C81 was undamaged, I decided to add one and weld it in. I prefer to weld the plate in from the Unidrive mating side, by adding six holes to the "F" plate, bolting the plate in place using the Unidrive holes, and plug welding the two together, Grind the welds, prime & paint - good to go. Tried something different too - the plate was powder coated prior to welding - no issues if you follow common sense... The last picture is a front view with the optional removable braces installed.

So Thursday, while getting ready for the show we found some holes in the boy's mower deck. This afternoon I had him strip it down to repair the shell. I will probably also replace the double belts and re-bearing the whole thing while it is apart. Meanwhile I was futzing with the 1076 I bought from @Ed Kennell at the show. I wanted to get the deck on and try it out as a mowing machine, but first I had to straighten the forks a bit: In the end I got the deck on, but there were other issues, and I ended up using the 855 to mow for the first time this year. The Commando has been dominating lawn care duty so far this year.

Made a trailer hitch for my 520H. I did get it painted but will have to wait on paint to dry b4 getting it mounted to tractor . I made this out of stuff I had laying around but if I would have had to buy all my metal new I would just order one from wheelhorsepartsandmore, I don’t believe you could build one much cheaper if you had to purchase the metal.

Page number. 1054 !!

Click on the picture of the deck. The belt is shown on the page that comes up.

Welcome to Red Square. If I see your model number 05-42RY01 correctly it is for the 600-Series Zero-Turn mowers. In case you need it click on the image of the mower deck.

Welcome! A few pictures of them would be appreciated....

They probably wanted to make sure everyone got their portion before you got the bucket

If you want it to last forever, build a ramp and run the tractor up so you can clean the deck completely after every mowing. Coat it with oil for long periods of storage.

After dinner I adjusted the cam tension and the neutral on the new addition. It now has something that looks like neutral, and something that feels like braking. It still slows down after running for a short while, and I haven't really figured out yet if it is a loss of RPM, or a lack of motive force from the transmission, but there is a very noticeable loss of ground speed. Either way I think the next steps are going to be a tune up, and servicing the transmission. As they say "No valid diagnostics can be performed until all needed maintenance is done." I do however believe I am going to seriously look into refurbishing the transmission I got from @pfrederi and putting it in this tractor. It looks very similar to the existing unit, except it has lift hydraulics installed already, and an actual brake drum.

There is about 32 shows in TX I try and go to 12 to 14 shows a year

I'm Howard Fiest and I'm 20 in Friday's photo and 17 in Saturday's. I am from Bristolville, Ohio

@maine home Hi fellow Mainer! What size is the mowing deck? Pictures of your setup should definitely help us figure out what’s wrong. There could be many things that could cause the belt to jump. The smaller 37’ inch deck use one belt from the PTO to the deck. The bigger ones like the 42” inch ones use two. One from the PTO to the front most middle pulley on the deck, and one just on the deck to run the mowing blades. The belt from the PTO to the deck is on the mule drive. If it’s jumping, something could be wrong with the pulleys. If it’s the mule drive it might not be tight enough, or something is off there. There’s a few possibilities.

The license plates were already there when I got it. Ed even joked it's the only WH licensed to drive on the turn pike. I'm on the fence about trying to repair that deck. The area around the spindles seems pretty solid, there is a lot of metal that needs replaced everywhere else. It may be better to just look for a different deck. He much prefers working with his hands over doing computer things. He plays video games, and watches TV, and spends most of the evening most nights talking/texting his girlfriend, but he only has so much patience for a screen, or for sitting still, in a day. @lynnmor As for eye protection, we are well supplied with safety glasses, and use them when needed. Most of this job was done with hand tools, because we were working with carriage bolts, and impact guns strip the holes on carriage bolts. In regards to the picture that I'm sure prompted that comment, he wasn't running the gun, just looking under to line up on the bolt that he couldn't break loose by hand. The deck shell was plenty of protection in this case.

Sediment Bowl in French is "Gas Leak" If I had a dollar for every sediment bowl gasket I sold at Napa, I could buy @WHX?? about 5 gallons of diesel fuel!

I'll be happy to take that piece of junk (with the quite desirable priming lever) off your hands! Send it on by mail (I’ll reimburse the postage) or to the Show with @953 nut!

Was debating stripping the hood completely, but I'm glad I did. There were hundreds of little rust bubbles under the paint. All clean now and red oxide primed. Also I have looked for several days for my generator belt brackets. So I just made a set. Once I get them installed I'll probably find the originals. And I'm strongly considering using an electric fuel pump. I have for over a month now played phone and email tag with Newandoldparts. I'll decide tomorrow...