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July 18, 1980, Billy Joel's "Glass Houses" album tops US charts, featuring "It's Still Rock 'n' Roll to Me".

I installed the rubber floor tiles 2x2 in my enclosed that lock together. Unfortunately they began to buckle a lot and I have to physically cover the lifting or should I say cupping joints with flatstock metal. I hope this floor holds up better than mine did. it is a tough call on best flooring to install in these trailer. Yours looks good Kev!

I've been using sealed bearings for the front wheels for quite some time now. Excellent results. I decided to try them on a mower deck with some hesitation. The first deck is on the 5th year now and no issues.

Keep the seal on after packing with new grease and they'll be perfectly fine. Waste of time and grease filling that entire wheel hub with grease IMO. (For normal intended use anyway) However, If you're "4 wheel'n" with it through the swamps and puddles every week then I would recommend removing the inner seals and flushing them out with new grease through the zerk. Mowing the lawn or towing a trailer, not so much. We have the technology they didn't have back in the day with the seals, so use them until they fail many years down the road and let your grandchildren replace them when necessary. (Stay away from the stamped steel bearings sealed or not )

IMO, the sealed bearings are the way to go. They keep the grease in where it is needed and keeps the dirt out. No need to fill a wheel hub with a pound of grease that makes a mess. The low RPM of these sealed bearings should insure a long life.

I would often run into a father & son at the Barber Shop. The Richard, the father was a night security guard at a local Hotel - the place where the Company I worked for would have their annual Christmas Party. One year, after the party, my Boss's tipsy wife started to play the piano in the lobby - and not very well. Richard comes over to disuade her from playing & my Boss gets in his face. I intervened - it was all OK once she stopped. We all went off to the Hotel lounge where Richard told us the night Billy Joel did the same. He had returned to the Hotel after his local show, and was playing when Richard told him to stop - it was after midnight - but once he recognized Billy Joel, said to play as long as he wished. That became an informal sing along with the other Hotel guests that lasted until 4 AM.....

Mine is a 90 hp. I think it’s a 2002. Carbureted (four of them!) four cylinder with tiller steering. Starts easy every time, but does require choke the first start of the day Which I guess isn’t a surprise. I remember you posting about your 20 last year. Did you replace just the impeller or did you do the whole setup? If it was just the impeller maybe there is something misshapen or worn in the housing or on the plate under the impeller. Any chance you dock it in shallow, sandy bottom? My cousin had a Mercury motor that was hard starting but otherwise ran great once fired up. He had it tinkered with repeatedly and nothing fixed it. Carbs, plugs, etc. This went on for years. Eventually the fuel lift pump failed and when replaced the hard starting issue went away completely. Hopefully it’s something simple and cheap like that. My motor has been exceptional. My boat was previously owned by a guide in northern Wisconsin and I bought it from him in 2018. When I picked it up we talked about maintenance and whatnot. He wasn’t super obsessive with maintenance. Said oil change every year. He didn’t remember when the waterpump had last been changed and confirmed the timing belt had never been touched. He guessed it had 800 hours on it. I bet it’s more. The boat was 15 years old when I got it and he had only a small transom trolling motor on it. No bowmount. He said he back trolled most of the time. From what I can see from his current postings for his guide service he’s fishing every day through the three month summer and less frequently until ice up. So I bet the hours on this thing are really at least 1500. I trolled crankbaits with it today for about three hours, so I’m getting some time on it periodically too. But nothing like he did. I still haven’t changed the water pump so it is way way way way way past due. At least 9 years old. I bought one in June and will do it at some point over the summer. Mine is a a year where they transitioned ftom one gearcase to another so there’s a chance I got the wrong parts. Honda outboards have a great general reputation but have two drawbacks in my opinion. First, there aren’t very many dealers so service isn’t as available in most areas like it is for other brands…especially Mercury. This is a problem for getting maintenance parts. Second, Honda is clinging to carburetors on everything 30 hp and below. Other makers have fuel injection down to at least 9.9 hp. Fuel injection is one of those things that is under appreciated. The BF20 has a great reputation amoung a number of guide services in the Boundary Waters of Minnesota. The Honda 20 has apparently more umph than other 20s and is still reasonably light. I’m sure that’s changing. All that said, I just bought a 25 hp Suzuki and if I was looking for another motor I’d give them a hard look. They’ve garnered a great reliability reputation, have a decent dealer network, and are value-priced. Suzuki parts don’t seem to be badly priced either. I ordered some random things recently and don’t recall any sticker shock. FWIW, the 9.9-20 hp Zukes are all the same motor differentiated merely by different ECU programming for the timing and fuel injection. The 9.9 also has a restrictor at the throttle body that is removed on the 15 and 20. This is handly as people have realized they can get 20hp from a 9.9 with minimal investment by just changing the ECU ($500) and removing the restrictor. They use these on horsepower limited lakes. Same thing goes for the 25/30. Different ECU and a $5 gasket in lieu of the restrictor. Larger engines differ just in programming with no physical differences within a power class (this is not unique to Suzuki). believe it or not, there are places that offer tunes as well. They claim 25hp from the 9.9-20 and 35 from the 25/30. If you’re so inclined. Anyway, I really like my Honda 90. I’d get another without hesitation. I’d like to find a nice 9.9 to use as a kicker since the 8hp Yamaha I use doesn’t match and it drives me a bit crazy, but if it was a standalone I’d be looking at Suzuki. FWIW, that 8hp Yammie is a bit cold blooded and apparently that’s typical. It can take a lot of pulls to fire it up first time on a cold day. It’s also a bit loud compared to the Hondas. But it’s a nice motor…just the wrong shade of gray. Steve

You learn something new everyday. I didn't know that our bodies made that

My mother has a 2013 Honda Pilot that’s closing in on or possibly over by now 200,000 miles. It’s still going strong. A timing belt gets changed every 100,000 miles and the other various consumables along the way with no big issues yet.

I took the 42” deck off the 312 because after mowing the fire station lawn. It started to make horrendous noises. After some investigation, the slack adjuster was loose and the bolts holding in the spindles were too. I tightened them down with a wrench this time, but still may put some blue locktite on the spindle bolts, as a bit of added insurance. I also checked and filled the spindles to the top with grease. The grease was coming out the center spindle, so I know that was full. I was being a bit like @peter lena and making sure moving things were lubed up non moving were tightened down and things were good.🙂 I had to fix the 308’s rear left tire as well. it had sat and lost air breaking the bead. My 9 year old nephew decided to stop by then so he got a lesson on how to fix and reattach a tire. I got another set of hands. He was all for moving the 308 out of the workshop in first gear so I could clean out a bit and start to put things back. No pics as it was a busy day.

I see vehicles of practically all makes and models in their “time of need” daily, so my opinions are probably somewhat biased. You can’t go wrong with a Honda or a Toyota though.

I use two 1/8" street ells as a universal joint on mine. I can get on some pretty tight zerks and still have a rigid pipe that helps to push it on the zerk.

We have over $100,000 worth of current , NOS, discontinued, and obsolete inventory to fit Wheel Horse , Toro, Kohler , Onan, Tecumseh , & Briggs and Stratton . Pm here, or call / text with needs. Shipping available on all orders ( Continental US only ) . Stocking most currently available replacement parts for classic Wheel Horse tractors, including belts, cables, pulleys, & switches ( all oem, no aftermarket )

Bryl-Cream... a little dab 'll do ya! Goo for a 1950's hairdo, not wheel bearings!

I am a mutt, like most of us!

I've only met Don in real life once but I think it's safe to say no one knows his breed.

I tidied some of my rubber edges up, and @Lil’ Pullstart helped me snap some lines for the e-track.

who am I kidding?

I ordered a few hundred self tapping stainless screws to install the E-track. I think I have settled on the spacing for the floor pieces. I believe this spacing will work well for any sized GT I have, motorcycles or even a small car. I’ll run the full 16’ for these, starting as close to the back door as possible.

I trimmed the back edge of the floor rubber and trimmed and fastened the ramp rubber. The door closes and opens well!

I rolled out the entire door, cut it to (excessive) length, and rolled it back down. My glue pattern kind of duplicates the idea of an ag tire. I figured a diagonal grip to the wood would ensure maximum grip to a glued surface at any given time. Time will tell if that is a good idea. Like the trailer floor, I used the e-track box to roll out the bubbles and slack. A few passes center, left, right, repeat, and it seemed to flatten out well. I think the ramp worked out better than the trailer floor, but it needs to hold things by itself too. The floor will have e-track to secure it also.

I got the side door cut in. I left the rubber a bit long, so it can shed water of course.

More explanation is probably helpful. My idea is to run this up the side and staple it in place, a little glue near the cuts to make a better seal of course. I’ll run aluminum sheet along the walls and over the rubber. In my mind, it’s like building a shower pan. I don’t intend for it to be water proof, but withstand a strategic wash if needed.

I use 2 28oz tubes of HD adhesive, and the floor is glued in on bottom. I still need to cut the door opening and lay some metal over the side flaps. The back edge is still long. I may leave it a bit long, so any wet tires coming in won’t allow moisture at the edge. Let the door press seal it down, if you will. The e-track is 57 lbs and 5’ long. I figured it would work well to press the bubbles out, so I worked it front to rear a few times. I like the outcome.

Absolute game changer. I can no longer tolerate the heat and humidity. My workshop has AC.

I have the main floor piece rough cut. I need to trim the front corners to a respectable lip. Then find some adhesive laying around and slap it down.

It’s supposed to be 95 or hotter today. The shop just barely fits the new trailer! The shop A/C is on for a bit to bring the temps down to something a bit more comfortable. Rubber flooring and e-track is all here, that’s exciting!

Really nice Wheelhorse hauler and I can double as a portable "dog house" as needed!

Herculiner rolled on mine. Works great.