Leaderboard

Buttoned up a bunch of small things. Welded some proper hinges to the seat, plumbed the hydraulic system, filled it up (no leaks!), installed new air cleaner elements, fitted an extra heat shield/mesh at the drivers station, added small exhaust tip (not sufficient unfortunately) installed new drivechains and put on all the engine cooling shrouds. Before testing the hydraulic system on full chooch I wanted to purge the oil-lines and hydraulic valves of old oil. To do so I hooked the belt on the oil pump pulley and the other end around the drillchuck of a battery powered drill. Gave it a spin and waited for the oil to make it's way through the system. Worked like a dream! Could even build a bit of pressure that way until the belt started to slip on my drillchuck. After that it was time for the real test. Fire it up and see what it does.. thanks to my SO for being the cam-opetator. Went pretty well and still no leaks Next up comes the 'fun' part of fitting some new rubber to the old rims and see what it does in the great outdoors. Now I do have a question for the engine doctors out there. As you can hear the engine runs okay but coughs a bit. I loves to rev and runs fine in the upper rpms but if I throttle it down past halfway full throttle it dies even when I re-apply full throttle, while still having good momentum going in the flywheel so to say. Is this a 'clean-the-carb-well-and-reassemble' issue or a tuning issue. Or perhaps something ignition related or valves etc..?

And as Trina says.... I know where to buy more paint!

The switch in your hand has an I (eye) terminal for battery ignition and the 1994 312 has magneto ignition. The M terminal is required and it connects to the ground terminal in the OFF position. That is what kills the ignition. If you can disconnect the blue wires to the magneto it should run. Do not allow any battery voltage to get to those blue wires. That creates magneto smoke.

I've had several of those 2 piece tanks and never one that didn't leak to some extent. I don't think there's a gasket coating that exists that will permanently stop the issue. Really it's just a bad design. Wheel Horse came out with a service bulletin on it which involved actually installing an inner tank to solve the issue. I think I found a better method. There's many fuel tank liners out there and they will likely work as well but I've never tried them so I can't vouch for them but I know this stuff works. I think I can say permanent because I've never had one leak after using it. The key to it is cleanliness. I removed the old gasket and cleaned everything until it was sterile. I reassembled it and did some more cleaning. I let it sit in the sun several days to make sure any trace of moisture was gone. I plugged the threaded hole with a nylon fitting. I used maybe a quarter cup of Red Kote and swirled it around the edge where the two pieces meet. It doesn't take much. You don't need to coat the entire tank, just where the seal is. I let it dry several days and repeated. When I was done with the sealer I let it dry for many days. The latest one I've done is my current 854 and that's been 8 years now.

Older pic but thought it was fitting for this thread. Carter N carb off a 551 Wheel horse Tecumseh H55

I bought my C-120 Auto with deck, snowplow, weights and chains for $400 - but that's in Indiana where I imagine they are easier to find than in Florida. Likewise, so are parts. I converted it over to hydraulic lift. Only major issue was the axles and hubs were shot - but again, parts are more readily available in Indiana. I have 3 other tractors, but the C-120 is still my best handling machine.

How about a $5 swap meet find that yielded a nice fuel pump, and more importantly, the governor disc I need for my K161? AI can edit my feet out of the picture if that helps!

Slowly cleaning up and prepping this C-145 for winter snow chores. Wheels and tires are done! Rears are Carlisle All Trails in 23x8.0x12 Fronts are Carlisle in 18x6.50x8

Happy Birthday

I often pull one plug at a time on my twins when trying to locate a problem. They do run on one cylinder.

Always start with a compression test, that won't always find a loose valve seat, but if the compression is low pull the head. The front head is easy, just unplug the headlight wires and pull the hinge pin and remove the hood, then the head access will be wide open. What I heard, in the all too brief video, sounds like the noise is at engine speed, a valve issue will be half the engine speed. You might want to engage the PTO and see if the noise changes.

I used a nice old ammo box on my lever steer. Over center clasp, nice heavy gasket.

Same tractor with all 4 wheels freshened up.

Yep, probably too big for fronts (rub on frame? bore length?) Garden trailer seems likely, or some other implement.

Allright guys...I finally have a shiny tractor that rivals Karls C-160 . I bought Eldons 416-H at the show and I LOVE IT!!!! The tractor is so smooth and tight that I have put another 1.5 hours on it today . Its a total pleasure to drive. Now I wasnt really thinkin of buyin this tractor till Eldon pulled his "Used car salesman trick" on me. Eldon and I had to get out to the back 40 to load up Karls show stuff so he jumps on his C-520 and I start off on foot cause my kid has my tractor and is no-where to be seen. Eldon see's this and says "Mike, why dont you take the 416 out to the parkin lot instead of walkin". So I do and after I got a couple hundred feet of drivin it under my belt I started to think "Man is this thing smooth". He musta known that one drive and I would be hooked. I ended up askin Eldon to back out the deck and mule drive and he gave me a great price and I'm extremely happy with this years show score. So Eldon, thanks for this tractor!!!!! Mike.............. PS..if any of you guys drive one of his tractors for sale your gonna buy it!!

For some reason this was a tough post to open, but now that it is open I see you scored a fine lookin Raider. I allways liked the "racing stripes" down the center of the hood. Mike..............