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Just picked this up today. New to me C161 twin automatic. It’s going to be designated lawn mower as my 11hp struggles on hills. The engine was swapped to a 18hp Briggs. It needs a carb clean and adjustment. I’m going to order a decal kit as the hood reads “twin eight speed” but it’s a hydro. I’m an huge fan of the black hoods on these. What does everyone else think on the 161s? Also the rear fender looks like it’s swapped off a 520 or similar unit. Anyone know where I can find an original metal fender for it? Or just wait till a parts unit comes up for sale.

July 8,1969, A battalion of the U.S. 9th Infantry Division leaves Saigon in the initial withdrawal of U.S. troops. The 814 soldiers were the first of 25,000 troops that were withdrawn in the first stage of the U.S. disengagement from the Vietnam War. There would be 14 more increments in the withdrawal, but the last U.S. troops did not leave until after the Paris Peace Accords were signed in January 1973.

Nobody can deny the ease of accessibility to the rock shaft on the early C-Series for changing from the lift bar for the plow to the lift chain for the mower deck. The general simplicity of all the C-Series makes them a good choice. More complicated electronically but I like them are the 400 series with the M-series Kohler 417,418 and 420. The GT-Series Work Horse are good too but only the GT-1800,GT-1848 came with hydraulic lift. Then there’s the……..wait a minute, who am I kidding? I like pretty much all Wheel Horse Tractors, just some more than others!!

Most people only sized belts based on width, i.e. 1/2, 5/8, etc., and length. There is also another measurement to consider, the groove angle. That angle on the belt will dictate how well it fits into the groove on the pulley and whether or not it will give long life. Another is the belt material, the cheaper belts will wear out faster due to inferior belt material.

As with any purchase of previously owned equipment, the key is to find one that is used, not used up....

I’m heading today to pick up my new Horse Hauler! I’ve opted for a 7x16x7’ vee nose. The weight capacity, towing capacity of Eloise, and everything aligned to fit 6 tractors for shows if desired. It’ll also fit the Triumph if we chose to haul that to a camp site or show. The brand I’m getting comes outfitted with a full OSB interior. Tail spoiler and ramp loading lights are standard too. Time to customize! I want to be able to wash it out if needed. Has anyone ever done a roll on bed liner on OSB? Thinking I could run it 6-10” up the walls, then plate the walls with either diamond plate aluminum or simple race car aluminum. The race car sheets are in stock, diamond plate would be cool. Next will have 4 rows of e-track on the floor, and a row on each wall too. Pics coming soon!

Today I got a couple things done. After mowing the Fire Station’s, my lawn and weedwacking both, I got working on small stuff. First, the C -141’s steering wheel was missing the center cap. So I made one up with a scrap of 1/8 inch galvanized sheetmetal. With a big washer for a spacer, a deck screw, and some RTV silicone, voila, it’s covered up now. I also removed the brass adjustment collar, that was under the plastic knob, when it was on the 42” RD mule drive, before I had it. I was getting tired of using vice grips to spin the adjustment rod to tighten the belt. I’ll tackle the replacement tomorrow. I have to also look at the deck too as it’s shredding the PTO belt. Hopefully, more progress tomorrow.

So my oldest “kid” just closed on her first house. Nice property, about 1/2 acre, decent sized gravel driveway. The previous owners are leaving them a JD L110 with some minor issues that will allow them to mow grass the rest of the season but is not the right solution. They need a proper tractor. I’ve already decided I want to find/put a WH together for them…..or course this happens just weeks after the big show…DOH! Anyway, son in law is mechanically capable (daughter, not so much) but I’m close enough to help with the learning curve. Here are my thoughts, please feel free to add suggestions or ideas. i think I’d like to find them a single cylinder tractor with a hydro trans and preferably hydraulic lift as well. Something like a 314H or similar. 42” or 48” deck would get the job done. Worst case, I could slap my old 36” RD on it. Also thinking a plow setup for winter. I think that would be preferred over a snow blower due to the gravel. Son in law is a chef, and they have had nice gardens at their previous places. If it works out, I wouldn’t be surprised if they would be plowing out a decent garden in a year or two. I was thinking this setup would give them the biggest flexibility with the least complexity. not a help/wanted ad, just looking for input from anyone who has done something similar for someone

This is where i wanna hang out next year. Good stuff.

I honestly could not have said it better myself! That’s exactly what I’m thinking!! I’ve said it before here, sometimes when I see a wheat or hay field I think to myself “ I’d like to cut that with my sickle bar!” Then I think about all the sneezing and itchy watery eyes I’d have! And by the way, “sickling around” really cracks me up!

Someday me and the warden will afford a nice piece of land to enjoy and I’ll be out there with a smile just “sickling” around and pretending not to hear her yelling to me to come inside.

The exact issue when replacing the two 3/8" wide captured drive belts on a 1960's gear drive deck. Older Chrysler product cars had a matched set for the AC compressor - not exactly inexpensive...

You're not overthinking it. This has been an industry issue for decades. Standards can vary slightly from company to company but also if they are using outside vendors to produce their products. Even amongst the top-tier manufacturers like Gates, manufacturing methods dictated that if you needed two or more belts for the same system, you had to order a MATCHED SET to guarantee proper fit.

Yes I have seen it and Yes you may be overthinking it. Any new belt has to "break in" to the pulley. I generally buy the blue Husky ones from TSC and I always buy one either side and run the one that fits the best. Being careful not to run them in as the ones that don't fit get taken back. Also any new belt will leave some "belt dust" from run in. Blue dust in the case of Huskies.

Congrats, I’m sure that’s going to work well for you! The black hoods came with a very brittle plastic fender, and the steel fender from later models became the next best thing for replacement. You could locate one from a later C-series to be closer to the era, but I think yours looks just fine on the machine.

These solenoids are not polarity sensitive, use either big terminal for the battery and the other to the starter. Likewise either small terminal can be grounded and the other one goes to the wiring harness.

C-81 is still in the garage getting stuff taken care of (867 comes in next). The front attach-a-matic was missing the lower bar thingy. It came with one for me to install but it was super crusty. Luckily I had one in stock that was less crusty. Then swapped out the 22x7.50’s on the rear for the correct 23x8.50’s. Again these tires/wheels were stacked up in my shed, it’s great to have spares! Much better look

I got my cracked f plate welded up today. How come you gave a frame with a cracked f plate Kevin, I want a refund. At least it gave me some welding practice.

I always assumed if two belts had the same published dimensions they'd behave the same. Then I had two aftermarket belts for what should have been the same OEM replacement, and one clearly rode higher in the pulley than the other. That sent me down the rabbit hole comparing OEM cross references ( https://www.amazon.com/Mower-197253-Replacement-Husqvarna-Craftsman/dp/B0949K1453) before ordering another one. Has anyone else actually seen this, or am I overthinking it?

Spindle belt 95-3878 (HA x 102.44" or 1/2" x 102.44")

You may not find matched belts anymore. Back in the day belts were cut from a wide blank the length of each belt. As two or more belts were cut off those next to each other were tagged as matched. The best they could do. As technology improved they were able to make belts to more exacting tolerances so the "matched belts" was abandoned. I don't know when that happened but in 1970 matched belts were tagged as such.

Just remember you’re attaching sixteen horsepower with some serious torque! Pay attention to constrain movement in all directions and use strong bolts, strong tubing, and solid welds!

The $$ for “matched” was too much for me. I bought four, found the best pair, then returned the other two.

It's 1/4 and its from dad's work so we're thinking it might also be heat treated and hardened a little bit

I could use it in my deer plot rye.

@c-series don I’ll be at the show again next year hopefully, I will be sickling around with it . I also will try and walk up to you and other folks and introduce myself, I just didn’t wanna be rude and barge in on conversations or being busy.

Dont you get to feeling special I got one of them to…..

Ive never done it but I'm sure I have seen sleeve adapters for the different cranks, and dont see why you culdnt use sqaure tubing to get motor/crank in the raised position.

If you get to thinking someone that needs should have it I will gladly come and get it if you will split the fuel bill with me

One thing I have learned is of all the things you can buy/order online nowadays belts is not one of them. Guaranteed it's going to be like the proverbial box of chocolates. I have a wall of them to prove this. I suspect it's due to what EB said coupled with someone stuffing the wrong size into your box. Some even the belt just labeled wrong. I also generally don't go by part numbers Just the belt length and type. (3L, 4L, 5L) etc. One (ok a couple) of the files I lean on heavily when replacing a belt. Get the WH part number and cross to length. Then go to farm & barn, power center, big box or where ever and shop on length. Belts_Mower_spindle_and_drive_belt_charts.pdf WH LENGTH and WIDTH BELT LIST.txt

I have a Troy Bilt Horse with a 7 hp Kohler. I don"t know but would there may be a detent ball and spring to locate the shift shaft but never had any trouble with my unit. Very well built and heavy unit. I looked up a diagram and yes looks like a simple spring and detent ball, similar idea to our high low shifter system in the C series 8 speeds.

So that’s kind of what I was thinking of doing with a thin steel cable and a carabiner to clip it to the handle bar for free wheel. If it works out the way I want maybe I’ll take the time to tear it down and fix it right. I’m hoping it works out because it’s seems to be a fairly uncommon unit.

I have a 1979 C-101 that I bought new, and have not had any problems with it, not even the SHAKER PLATE. many many hours mowing and now moving snow each winter. Very good simple tractor.

@Vinylguy Terry has been known to customize decals in the past. C-181 Automatic sounds pretty beefy

I am not an expert on the C`s Eric and Mike. So opps.

Earlier C's have no shaker plate

@sqrlgtr Thanks for the reply. The points are around 18 for this old guy with a slight shaky hand. Do you know the # for the NGK`s I am going through it again just in case I missed something on assembly. Also I saw a little oil leaking from the head on disassembly. That could also have something to do with it. Could be a little warped. I have another head in good shape will be putting that on.

@c-series don Same for me, I have no need for one right now. I had one prior and sold it, regretted it. Couple years later I saw this one for sale and picked it up at the big show couple weeks ago. My old one was beat up so had to repaint it and replace parts. This one I just stripped apart, cleaned, wiped down and greased up with new belts.

I rebuilt the gearbox on a Pony. It doesn't have the Hi/lo. Their is a Facebook Group for those tillers. Fairley helpful group. You can source bearings, bushings, seals and gaskets individually off Ebay. no kit available that I'm aware of. They are not expensive, but the cost $$ do add up when you replace all the bearing, bushings, seals and gaskets. On the Pony their is some bearing shimming required for reassembly that there are not clear instructions about in the manual. Getting the wheels and tiller tines off can be about like getting a Wheel Horse steering wheel off. A torch heat will probable required on some part of it, so that's where the seals get destroyed. If that rope fixes the only thing wrong with it, my 2 cents is stick with the rope or maybe a small chain that you make a hook for.

I have one, don’t know why ‘cause I do not have a use for one! I guess I bought it for the coolness/rarity factor!

knowing their preference as you noted - hydro tranny and lift and possible future attachment usage - plow - garden tiller etc is important ?

Thank you, sir. I did not know about the polarity. Good deal. Much appreciated.

Yes, but there are two small wires. One that was attached to the battery side of the solenoid, and another spade connector near the bottom of the solenoid. So are there two feed wires from the key switch?

Hello Everyone I'm from California. Just signed up. I own a 1973 Wheel Horse C-120 with the 12hp Kohler. I use it mainly for mowing and snow plowing around the property. It’s been a solid machine and I’m slowly working on getting it cleaned up. I'm joining to pick up tech tips, parts info, and to see what other guys are doing with their Horses. I’ve got a lot of respect for the history behind these tractors. Appreciate any advice and glad to be part of the community.

There fixed that for ya...

The search is now over! I have finally found a 42” mid mount grader blade for my 1257 after searching for about 8 months.

Install an electric fuel pump.