Leaderboard

Stopped by a local Antique Engine and Tractor Show today and saw this creation!

July 25, 1965, Bob Dylan went electric at the Newport Folk Festival, performing a rock-and-roll set publicly for the very first time while a chorus of shouts and boos rained down on him from a dismayed audience. Six weeks before the 1965 festival, Bob Dylan had recorded the single that marked his move out of acoustic folk and into the idiom of electrified rock and roll. “Like A Rolling Stone” had only been released five days before his appearance at Newport, however, so most in the audience had no idea what lay in store for them. Neither did festival organizers, who were as surprised to see Dylan’s crew setting up heavy sound equipment during sound check as that evening’s audience would be to hear what came out of it.

I also put the key that I got from @JCM on it.

Got the carb cleaned up and gone through and was able to start it. After that, I had to mess around with the drive pulley to get it to go on all of the way. The surging in the video is because I forgot I had my gas turned off at the tank. I was able to drive it around a little bit tonight. I put about a quart of an unopened thing of ATF that I found in the back of my grandma's garage that I think is older than me but I figured it's good enough for temporary to help flush the tranny. Tomorrow I need to swap the wide front axle onto our 1257 and take the narrow axle I put on the 1257 onto my 845. I also need to mess with the governor some.

I love my HC mows nice and I can zip around quickly, @sqrlgtr would have to pry my cold dead hands off it when I croak

Well that's just nuts!

Little work on the 314H today. New front rims, bearings, tires and tie rods. Quick touch up of some of the body parts.

as an fyi - - for those who have the traditonal oem weights and have damaged decals in center ----- I checked and found that there are replacement decals available for those in need from REDOYOURHORSE Vinyl Guy?

Got my first look at a WH with a hit & miss a couple of years ago at the Big Show as it was being driven around the grounds. Perhaps not too practical but a great demonstration of elegant ingenuity.

That is the frame and side drive system for an older (1960-1970) style mowing deck. This deck drive system was replaced with the current front mule drive system. to the

Scored some rear WH wheel weights and some FMC wheel weights today . The WH weights are going on the C160 if I dont change my mind. Leaning 520H for the FMC weights. They look just like some Bolens weights I have seen before. Got the xtra 7 1/2” WH wheels for free. Been a good morning these wheel weights are pretty rare around here so I’m happy to have found them.The WH weights are white but think I like um red better did certain years have red and others have white weight?

hello there - got a 312-8 the other day and the previous owner made som modifications that im trying to undo. also im missing som parts and other things i dont think is for my machine or attachments. here are my questions: 1. how to i find out what year my 312-8 is from ? its missing the decals with serial number, the m12s engine serial starts with 17 and it may be from 1987 ? 2. i got a big bracket that i dont know what is for, its not for my cutting deck, snowthrower or the rototiller. 3. i got a smaller bracket that i also dont know is for, im missing the bracket that sits under the pto for my tiller, is there any one that has some messurements for it ? im thinking of making my own as getting used parts is kinda hard here in denmark where i live 4. the front pully assembly (mule drive?) is missing the nut and id like to know what size thread it has so i can buy a new one. 5: and lastly i think the linkage to the rear slot hitch is some homemade crap, it hits the rubber boot for the shift linkage, is that not supposed to be a wire ? can anyone tell me what the part number is for the complete cable im missing. there will more as i pogress on servicing the 312-8 as the previous owner has not been to kind to this tractor and i will get it to shape best regards kris from denmark

Is your engine spec number 471546? Good chance your tractor is a 1988 model E1-12K801. It took a while for the engines to land on a tractor and 1988 models would have been available in October 1987. Two pages of search results in no particular order for the E1-12K801 https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?&q=e1-12k801&type=downloads_file&page=1&search_and_or=and&sortby=relevancy

Hello and welcome to the group. Yes, the nut is 3/4" 16 fine thread. You will find your rear lift parts and more here. https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/

Bar: Looks like it fits well. I wonder about shifting gears? Or is it just one gear? But still it looks like somebody put some time into this figuring out how it’s going to work with a hit and miss installed. I guess if you have the time and the parts you can make anything.

It's alive

I was afraid I hadn’t back filled enough soil on the lilies. I had the big trailer full of dirt that needed to be emptied. I am happy to see fresh growth on the greens! Trailer is empty, maybe another good drink for the plants, and they should be good to go according to my mentors.

Down to Massachusetts helping my mom for a day. Trina pressure washed the entire back deck. Scraped the old paint off. Repeat. Repeat. Then... Removed the chicken wire that stapled all over the inside to keep the former dog in. I added a few screws to the ballusters. We replaced a post off the back steps. Then Trina painted ALL of the vertical parts and rails and ballusters. Inside. Outside. Steps. New. Old. Completed, not like it used to be - half covered. Tomorrow morning she's intending to paint the deck surface.

The problem was the noise from the Trac Vac is so loud i could not hear the engine bog down. When it kept slowing down and stopping I thought it was running out of fuel. Guess I cleaned all the grease off the brake lining. Yeah, I should probably move this gear drive down the road before I total it. I've had some near misses when I push the left pedal to stop and it just goes faster.

My wheel weights are painted almond to match the wheels

Could be said by nearly all of us. In short sir, you are not alone!

@ineedanother They are wheel horse rims. I purchased one off flea bay and the other I picked up from a friend of mine.

You’d be better off mounting the DC charger close to the battery being charged and having heavy supply leads installed in each vehicle and on the trailer between the vehicle and charger. That avoids voltage drop in the leads between the charger and the battery which could decrease the overall achievable state of charge. The flip side to this is the charger will try to maintain whatever power output it’s programmed to produce at a given batter state of charge, so voltage droop on its input side will lead to a concomitant current increase in those leads. This is not what would happen if you were just driving the charge ftom the vehicle battery with no DC charger between where voltage droop would also lead to current decrease or if you arrange it the other way and drive the charging circuit with a long run of wire on the output side. The Vevor unit appears to also accommodate Solar which is a plus. It’s 350W, so would exceed what your 7-way could provide so would require separate leads from the vehicle. It’s probably OK, but being budget priced could mean it will have a shorter life than a Victron or similar. If your use case is such that you aren’t living off this battery and have access to plug-in on a regular basis, optimizing the charge setup is probably not necessary. The vehicle will still charge it somewhat with just the 7-way, you’ll just have to top it off when you get home or find power available. The cost will be decreased battery life, but that cost probably washes out compared to the cost of a 100% solution. A good lead acid battery properly maintained will live a long time. I’ve had boat batteries hit 8 years when I’ve been a good steward of them; avoiding excessive discharge, never failing to recharge them immediately, watering them, disconnecting when not in use, etc. I’ve also had them go in three years when I’ve neglected them. Aside from being wasteful, they’re realistically not that expensive to replace… my next boat batteries will be LiFePO4. They’ve gotten pretty cheap and are tolerant to - actually prefer - not being charged to 100%. They have some downsides, but the benefits are generallly worth it. And not a bad way to go when replacement is necessary anyway. FWIW, you’ll see storage batteries rated in capacity using units of Amp-hours. For lead acid, you can only use about 50% of the rated capacity without damaging the battery. So that large battery is probably in the 100 A-hr range meaning it’s 50A-hr usable. So you can run a 50a load for an hour, or a 5 amp load for ten hours, etc. The inverter will shut down at some point when it’s no longer happy with its input voltage but other things like lights and whatnot will just get weaker and will draw less current as the voltage sags, so runtime won’t be linear. Steve

This is my hub puller. Works well. Cheep to make. Plenty of variations have been nade.

Open exhaust and worn plugs. Seems to run lean but when I partially close the choke it evens out. May do a carb rebuild. Don't know if it had ethanol in a previous life.

Salad is the guarantee that food is coming

The belt idler assembly looks similar to this one

That thing sounds bad ass! Like it has some big cam drag racing engine in it!!

Coincidental that the Newport Folk Festival is once again happening this weekend in "Zooport".

@nyquil junkie 2 major assists . a screw in . PACKING PULLER , punch in tiny hole in seal metal side wall , screw in pull out seal , replace , also lubricate rubber to axel point it insure smooth operation . like a FLANGE PULLER , TO PULL HUBS , HAVE A SMALL HYDRAULIC RAM ? that will be solid strength against itself , end of axel to inner hub to axel , KROIL PENETRANT , like butter . actually easy with the right set up , like penetrating oil and light sand paper , for axel areas clean up , pete

Cleat: many years ago when I had a mind. I had a c141 it was in need of wiring. Now I am no electrician. But I took my time and I figured it out one wire at a time some need to be replaced, but I got through it..

i think the nut for the mule drive is a 3/4"-16 UNF - correct me if im wrong

Got everything unloaded today and used the air gun to blow out all of the years of debris accumulation. The tractor is actually in overall pretty good condition considering it sat outside unused for at least 12 years. The engine does turn over and has compression so the first task will be to replace the fuel line, fuel filter and probably pull the carburetor and clean it in the ultrasonic cleaner. The engine oil looks good and the same for the gearbox oil. I plan on changing the engine oil before trying to start it and once the engine is running I'll change the gearbox oil and filter and then see if it will move under it's own power. After inspecting the gas tank I realized that it's not the original tank So I'm now on the hunt for an original replacement tank. I also found that while the air filter base is correct, it had the wrong filter and was using a hub cap for the cover So I'm also on the hunt for the correct air filter cover. While fiddling with the front grille I noticed that there were no holes for the bottom pins to fit into. Looking closer I found that the lower front cross member was installed upside down. I have since rotated the cross member and now the grille fits properly. I wonder how many years it has been like that. It doesn't have a battery tray so I've been searching for some sort of replacement. More than likely I'll just fabricate one myself so if anyone knows the dimensions that would help tremendously

i would do the oppisite when the 520H still had the foot control on it, I would think it was the brake and step on it and bout dookie my brithches.

I pretty sure the newer ones had some kind of Numb Nuts switch arrangement that turned off the engine if the brake was on and clutches released i think it was a 315-8 Also had a neutral start switch. It was magnetic switch. it really complicated wiring, and added relays, must have happened a lot in

How do you put a value on something that you made into a "one of a kind?" Then really make it special by shipping it half way across the country so a good friend who couldn't be there can see it and ad his signature? When RS members started signing the 20th anniversary banners at the Big Show, I knew I wanted a certain name on it that wasn't at the show. So I sent this to @stevasaurus so he could actually see it in person and autograph it for me. I was leery sending a 4 ft. long box through the mail so NATURALLY it got stuck in Indiana for like 4 days! But it finally arrived and the return trip was flawless. worth all the hand-wringing on my end. If someone wanted to buy the banner from me before I sent it, I would have had a hard time putting a dollar amount on it. Now there is no amount of $$$ I would consider. Someone will get it when I'm gone. PRICELESS!

Thanks Mike...that was Priceless for sure !!!!

There fixed that

A day late but it happen on Thursday haha

As we are proud grand parents and its little Franks first birthday, what better than his first Wheel Horse. Built by his clever uncle Ewan…

You can get more tension on the std Wheel a Matics by replacing the 2 slot head screws with longer allen head screws with a couple of washers. You can it tighter with an allen wrench as opposed to a slot head screw . I did this a year ago and it's still tight.

You know when Cleat ties into a tractor it's done right!

If my wife comments on the number of Wheel Horses I have I just go to her sewing room and she knows I don't have as many as she has sewing machines. Looking forward to the "clean up". Who are you kidding; it will be another 100% restoration.

Nice driving car, my mom had one in blue. The trunk was massive. And the car was so easy to fix. Nothing like we have now.

That would be the placement but we were thinking about raising them up by like an 1/8 to a 1/4 inch, not too much that it looks stupid, just enough to have a little more tire clearance

Today's progress so far has been welding up a cracked seat pan, putting the tranny on, putting the front axle on, putting wheels on it, cutting the top of the tower off because it was too tall, putting the fenders together and putting them on, measuring where to cut the too long steering shaf, and setting the little bits and pieces on it for mock up.

Gas cans, smoking, jumper wires. We drive excitement!

Got my steering put together and drilled the holes in the f plate reinforcement plate

I got my cracked f plate welded up today. How come you gave a frame with a cracked f plate Kevin, I want a refund. At least it gave me some welding practice.

Howard if you have not read this thread, we built an 857 into a 1045 look alike back in Covid times. Build thread here