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I was at an auction yesterday and bought this... It fired right up, blower works, and it moves fine. I did some reading and i just want your opinion on how decent of a mower it is? Its a 314A. I bought it to blow snow as itll be eaiser to do my sidewalks and stuff with then my quad. I gave 230bucks for it.

Put my second coat of boiled linseed oil on my 1958 patina Wheel Horse RJ i bought last August in Indianapolis! i really love this one! Joe Papke just finished redoing the Schnacke recoil o put back on with one of my stainless steel hex nuts i had made for a Kohler Schnacke application. I had the Hex nut made so you could reverse it if it wears groves in the hex from The three metal dogs in the recoil! This one has the original oil bath air cleaner and amazingly a hood with no cracks in the metal around the gas tank neck hole! Yes motor smokes some and i really have not run it much but thats ok with me! It started on the very first pull of the Schnacke after i turned the gas line valve open and set the choke door on the carburetor! IMG_4493.mov IMG_4495.mov IMG_4492.mov

Thankss Randy. This pic just showed up on my FB memories.

And 3 years later, September 8 1963 was the best day of my life.. She said "I do".

September 8, 1960, Alfred Hitchcock's classic film Psycho was released in the USA on September 8, 1960, debuting in New York City and becoming a massive cultural and financial success, establishing new standards in horror and cinema.

Had a great Labor Day family picnic. We picked the blue claws, then burgers, corn, potato salad, baked beans, and apple pie. Then played Bocce Ball, corn hole and tractor rides with my favorite Grand Nephew.

Got it off Took my BFH and whacked it a few times after soaking it a few hours in Kroil and heat with a propane torch

Rear wheels have been wire brushed and sanded. Prime and paint will happen after the tires are mounted. Front wheels have been wire wheeled, sanded, and primed on the tire side as they are very rusty in spots. These will get tubes for sure. Front wheels have been painted on the tire side. All four wheels now ready for the tires to be installed.

These are the photos I have so far, I need to get another one later of how it looks after sos pad wash and marvel mystery oil rub down and sun soak This photo is how it looked the day i brough it home. This photo is how it looked after scrubbing with the sos pad while it was still damp from the water And the video is from the first time I drove it after getting it rewired and running and washed 20260904_193920.mp4

Great deal. the working tall chute blowers sell for $200. Just a word of caution, the 314A has the weaker Eaton 700 hydro transmission that is not approved for ground engaging implements like a dirt plow or disc or grader blade. It should work fine with the blower or a mowing deck. Another quirk with the 700 hydros is the engine is not running, they can not be rolled. Do not attempt to tow as the transmission may be damaged.

Update: So it was another busy weekend. Friday/saturday/sunday: I tore apart the whole deck apart. I then replaced the bearings in the spindles, cleaned up the shaft treads, replaced the idler, welded a small patch over the largest of the holes in the deck (still need more practice on the stick welder. Its been a while since i have used anything other than the mig at work.) , tightened some loose nuts and fixed the rear wheel support rod brackets so it doesn't have so much slop in it. I even touched up the blades as I must have hit some rocks with them as they were not the best looking after about 2 hours of use. Monday, the fun day.. I started mowing the fields. About 15min into it, the engine just shut off. Puzzled, I looked it over. Finally, I found on of the original wires on the engine harness going to the coil was broken off. I did the walk of shame to the house, grabbed some tools and the connector, then I repaired the machine in the field. I then started mowing and 1.5 sections of the whole field done. I then hit a massive rock which caused the center spindle to loose tension on the blade nut and allowing the blades to spin. I figured it out after about 5 mins but the damage was already done, the threads were harmed along with the nut. So, after doing the drive of shame, I got it back to the house. I cleaned up the threads again, swapped nuts around from different spindles and all is good again. Yes the blades look horrible once more, but it will cut for now. Then I completed the sections I wanted to mow in the field. Now the whole thing is mowed as I wanted it to be and I have finally completed this project I have a total of 6 hours on the machine, and every time something breaks or becomes a problem, I correct it and hopefully make it better. Like the spindle shaft, I will machine them over the winter to redo the threads and make it all good again. Right now, it will mow the grass and hopefully I only have one more mowing. Now, back to the story, as I was leaving the fields to head home, I saw a stick on the mower deck and stopped the mower to clean it all off. I got back on and then engine would not start. it didn't spin over nothing. So, tired, I did the second walk of shame to the house, grab my son and the other tractor and towed it back home. Later, after a motorcycle ride, I dug into the issue some more. I have determined its the starter somehow. Its getting 12.5v but not spinning the motor. The starter paw clutch may be slipping as it would engage but just stay stuck and make the engine seemed to be locked up. Its super weird. So, off came the starter and I took it to work so we can see whats wrong with it. Overall, I'm pleased with the way the horse project came out. It made me feel good to use the old tractor again for some series work. Future plans are for me to replace the front steering rod bearing, front wheel bearings, and then tires. For now, it will work and become a dedicated mower for the field.

Congratulations to both you and your bride.

I don’t want to question my spouse, but she thinks highly of my “tractor friends.”

My wife and I always compromise: I admit I'm wrong, and she agrees with me.

What you talkin about Willis? I rescued this 875. Installed the lift arm, replaced the worn out engine, fixed the tranny leak, fixed the broken frame, made the fan screen, installed Town and Country's and front knobbies, painted the wheels and added the comfy but patched seat and springs.

Here are a few photos of said tractor. I see nothing that would make me believe it is not an actual 754. I will be picking it up from @Just getting started in a couple weeks when my work takes me to Minnesota. It will mostly be for shows, parades, and joy rides - though I do have a nice period correct snowblade and enough parts to make one (if not two) nice mower decks. The tower looks like it may have had an HY-2 at one time, unless there is some other explanation for holes (last photo). This old plow may have found its special purpose!

Thanks, now you got me started. This reminds me of a problem I had when I was still working. One of my 10 ton 600hp dynos lost a bearing and needed to be removed from the lab for rebuild. The problem was the dyno was installed before the roof was put on the building. I had a 20 ton bridge crane but the top of the dyno was above the crane hook. When I told the VP I would have to remove the roof and get a mobile crane, he stared at me for a few minutes and replied, If 10,000 Egyptians and a couple hundred donkeys can build a pyramid, you can remove that dyno without removing the roof. He was right, with four 25 ton chain falls mounted to the crane bridge I was able to lift it out of the centering joint and lower it enough to get it rigged to the crane hook.

Lip stick on the dip ... never mind Howard I'll clue you in 30 years... or shortly after you get your DL ... which ever comes first. Guessing you changed the filter too that will add a bit but yes some times new fluid can be tough to read. Dan's trick sandblasting trick works but with fresh clean oil can still be abit sketchy. 875 is a bucket lister for many of us (Squonky doesn't deserve one) and I must have missed your thread with all the I got blind out house lucky and scored this one for chump change.

Not trying to scare you off, but horses are herd animals. I hope you have lots of shed room. Now that you have one, MANY more will follow.

Nice! You bought a snowblower and got a free tractor!

Make four wooden wedges, place two on each side of the pulley and drive them evenly under both sides to apply upward pressure then use a piece of hardwood over the shaft and apply the BFH tool.

What day do potatoes hate the most? Fry-day!

since you will replacing the seal and bearings maybe some heat on the pully hub will expand it enough, along with your favorite penetrating oil or wax. Bob

Nope I had 3 days of crab and Mrs. K had a Cracker Barrel gift card that was burning a hole in her pocket. We had country fried chicken, mashed taters, fried apples, and corn bread..

I had wired it up to the s and i terminal on the switch but with having a solenoid i needed to go to the solenoid instead of the switch. It was just a simple wiring mistake, charges at 13-14 volts and after I wired it correctly the light operates as it should

Is there room to slide a couple pieces of 1/4" flat stock onder the two holes in the pulley. Mark the hole then d&t for two long threaded rods. Screw them down tight against the deck as jack screws and add the puller bar across the shaft. Get max force on the rods and use your biggest BFH.

This tractor uses an Eaton 700 hydro so there is no transmission oil filter.

My buddy picked me up in an MG Midget he restored. I'm 5'10" 200LBS. I could have used a shoe horn getting in. Got out the same way as you!

14 is plenty of oomph. @Ed Kennell covered the transaxle Keep the revs up and a steady feed of snow when blowing and it’ll do great. Here's the Checklist Thread to help you welcome the new horse to the herd! You got a good deal

Old rotten tires removed from rear wheels. Inside part of wheel where the tires mount are in absolutely perfect condition. Don't even need to clean up or paint this area on them. These will seal up nicely with no need for tubes (good thing as 12" tubes are costly).

Yes, you have to support the pulley, If you let the pulley hit the top bearing, you can actually drive the bottom snap rig through the groove and that will break the housing at the ring groove. Don't ask how i know!

DANG IT!!! I paid $5.05 above list price. I'm such a sucker!

Already on the serial number list but do not know when it landed there

Mrs Sylvan says you are very wise... I told her what about your questionable choice of friends... She gave me the look... So i compromised...

First use of a trail cam to monitor a construction site- I think I see you Ed in the bottom right corner of the picture...?

The best fix that I've found it to sandblast the lower portion of the dip stick. This makes them much easier to read.

All of our older warships were limited to 108' beam as that was the max you could get through the original locks...Created some design challenges...

Looks like great day...but as I get older having Mr. Chervy coal come and dump 5 tons into my coal bin looks a lot easier

That's a good question. I left the PC-7 to dry overnight. I feel like doing bodywork with Bondo, if you caught it earlier, it would sand faster. I used 80 grit on a DA sander to somewhat shape it first. Then I used 180 grit not staying in one place too long. The hard part was the area where there was no bakelite at all. It was built up so thick that it took a lot of hand sanding. Now, about 2 small places on the bottom and one low spot I still need to put some more PC-7 on. This will be hand sanded since it won't be so thick. Then, adhesion promoter and flexible primer and I'll spray on the Rust Oleum truck bed liner. Dave

Very busy day here this Labor Day. Trina's family was here for a mid day gathering and meal. The grandson HAD to have some tractor time. Won't be long before he's driving on his own. He gave the Sparky tractor a little test today. After all that was done Trina kept going as usual. More firewood processing with The Ugly Bruce tractor hauling the splitter and Millie pulling the loads of split wood.

Got the rear end out and propped up on stands. It then got the final cleanup, wire wheeling, and sanding complete. A coat of primer was applied. I would have preferred red primer but I ran out of that so the grey will have to do. A couple of coats of IH red was applied.

#restrictorplates I can’t say my butt dyno has ever felt the dIfference between 7 and 8 horsepowers.

Where do you come up with all these off-the-wall thoughts? Stick with turf tires on the rear, the airplane tires are ribbed and offer very little traction.

Have a GREAT day Dave. See you Saturday morning here at the Meet & Greet.

My 416 just barely clears 24s without raising the fender, like...dont get your fingers between the tire and fender.

@Handy Don being the responsible party here, I did measure the coil height before pulling the engine, and can measure them again once the new drivetrain finds its way in. That should tell me what I need to do to figure any suspension needs.

@cafoose you have to cut into that bind fit , couple of band saw cuts on that sleeve , should get you going , pete

Usually the only problem with these carburetors is debris and there is a good chance that no parts will be needed. I have bought import kits for the base gasket, bowl gasket and welch plugs, the float needles often have sharp corners causing them to hang up. Don't use intake to block gaskets from China. I blast carburetor cleaner with a straw in each hole in the hope that the area behind the welch will be cleared, if I still have problems only then will I remove the plug. I just priced the accelerator pump and carb kit from Onanparts.com, Onan was always high priced but they are now out of control.

I got him one coming Cee but yea it just fit in a large flat rate box ... 30 plus smackaroos. Should get it tomorrow but with the holidays ...

Since you have a puller rap on that puller screw as Ed wrote. If that doesn't work wedge it and try it again I wedge them from behind against the block and do a fast rap right to the shaft with a hammer. Shocks them loose. Leave the nut on but loose so threads aren't damaged. Have yet to have one that wouldn't come off doing this