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October 25, 1884 1st "World Championship" Baseball Series, Polo Grounds, NYC: Providence Grays (NL) beat NY Mets (American Association) 12-2 in 6 innings for a 3-game sweep; game abandoned because of bitter cold.

Excellent! You were my main focus for sharing it!

As you are very aware, aluminum castings like the 701/702 tank are very challenging to manufacture. I’m betting the two-piece, even with the extra parts and labor to assemble, was substantially less expensive and, I’d suspect that the vendor that made the one-piece tanks had shut down their line. No big surprise that so many fuel tanks today are blow-molded plastic.

Hey Bar!! Bought it!! This'll most likely be brought up to whatever piece of camp property we end with a couple hours northeast of home. Such an incredibly helpful implement. Definitely justifiable for us as woods folk to have two of them.

I've had several of those 2 piece tanks and never one that didn't leak to some extent. I don't think there's a gasket coating that exists that will permanently stop the issue. Really it's just a bad design. Wheel Horse came out with a service bulletin on it which involved actually installing an inner tank to solve the issue. I think I found a better method. There's many fuel tank liners out there and they will likely work as well but I've never tried them so I can't vouch for them but I know this stuff works. I think I can say permanent because I've never had one leak after using it. The key to it is cleanliness. I removed the old gasket and cleaned everything until it was sterile. I reassembled it and did some more cleaning. I let it sit in the sun several days to make sure any trace of moisture was gone. I plugged the threaded hole with a nylon fitting. I used maybe a quarter cup of Red Kote and swirled it around the edge where the two pieces meet. It doesn't take much. You don't need to coat the entire tank, just where the seal is. I let it dry several days and repeated. When I was done with the sealer I let it dry for many days. The latest one I've done is my current 854 and that's been 8 years now.

And as Trina says.... I know where to buy more paint!

Tried my luck with reupholstering a WH seat pan. I think it turned out good, not my first time with upholstery, I have done a few projects before. postimage Org may delete my picture. I think I have already payed the government enough to use their site.

The tractor with the frame pictured acted like it articulated in the middle! And yes, I too have described it as moving like an inch worm... Bob - I respectively disagree that just changing the bolts is a proper fix. The compromised frame plate is not the cause, it is the victim here. My Proprietary repair is a fabricated welded-in plate and a set of triangular braces to stop the twist and the fore-n-aft flexing... More than 10 years in use - zero problems.

Very common problem on the Wheel Horses but like already has been said very fixable. The worst one I had felt like you were riding and inch worm when the going got tough. The 520"s I have come reinforced from the factory and what should have been implemented from the beginning IMHO.

Got one of these in a kit a few years ago. Only took a few months to: a) realize how often it is just what I needed, and b) that it should only be used with impact-rated sockets (no need to ask about how I learned that).

glad ya got it. This has replaced a bunch of my cheater pipes and power handles and lug wrenches . Almost worth its weight in gold around the shop and farm.

Knew you would win the battle. Ed, using that long pipe I think I would grab a flex head rather than a ratchet.

Who needs a BA impact gun to loosen stuck blades. Old schoolers just get a longer wrench. This deck may cut again with the blades right side up.

The "F" plates crack on all Wheel Horse tractors if the tractors are used for jerking or pushing heavy objects. Like jerking stumps or ramming into solid snow banks with a plow. The transaxle stops and the other 450 lbs of tractor keeps moving causing the damage to the transmission bolting plate.

I worked for a local Company back in the mid 1980's that manufactured Build-to-order Deep Hole Gundrilling Machines. I spent several weeks in Kokomo Indiana nstalling & training folks how to use & maintain their new transmission shaft Gundrills. Our Machines drilled a 5MM oil hole about 75 MM deep. These machines were part of dedicated Workcells - barstock was fed in one end, finished machined parts out the other. They had an Italian Machine there that did the same straightening thing - rotate the part to locate the highest runout spot, calculate the force & apply it where needed, repeat twice more. If the part was not straight within spec after the third try, it was scrapped. Quick & efficient. The step before the Gundrill was to rollform the splines onto the shaft - one pass revolving the shaft 2 or 3 times under 100 tons of pressure. That process generated NO chips as the metal was upset into shape...

I used this KBS product on a 502 two piecer that @Andy N. now has. I was too sceered to take it apart for fear of bad threads. 'Sides figured by the time I got a gasket from Lowell and Permatex and possibly dealing with bad threads i was ahead. I was sold on this brand since I used it before on a Tecky oval tank that was full of pin holes with great luck. . I soldered up the biggest holes and the ones I missed had the seal gooing out which I considered a good sign. The big thing with this product is use all three components and follow the destructions to the letter. https://www.amazon.com/KBS-Coatings-52000-Sealer-Gallon/dp/B000IBDIX2/ref=sr_1_1?crid=176XR3BJQCOI&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.VRrcUbU1iANAvxPODhOQO3xt4DcrZWHcPSX9eZkdvpHNP0AC30S3mP6VPjtv37JPU2A2RJNaGbc8AmnTHRce8DIMeiJSqdUGig2reSj9k6XZhdY1NzqYLYl4jql6C5yxmVYB0ZFbrT28pgq5FqILHabaGezHzaV1IZ2vFvNV3whPFCC_HFrMsqdB4A_bMmbNBSp9eb_Ari5mNfQ_9LednHWKBRRpZeGOY_7yRFFb17yWDM2Gi2bqk0CWJ30gDQHETMdV444TCG6aL54YwpIM6xTZ2Ic3zOJz_dFeuT-MWjM.xIbyvN4P2rS1Xo9cNfEOAlhKVgq439WeW2G6P6b43vI&dib_tag=se&keywords=kbs+tank+sealer+kit&qid=1792930810&sprefix=kbs+tank%2Caps%2C205&sr=8-1&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.9fe8cbfa-bf43-43d1-a707-3f4e65a4b666

When I do this I use are longer bolt with about 3/8" of unthreaded rod below the head. This way the rotating parts are not pivoting on bolt threads which will cause wear. The unthreaded part extends through the complete assembly plus a bit. Add enough flat washers below the nut so there is room for future adjustment. Cut off the threads that are not used. Reaching in with two wrenches to make future adjustments is a breeze.

Late to the show. Truly a unique Wheel Horse trailer. But no hydraulic dump? Oh, the humanity!

Buttoned up a bunch of small things. Welded some proper hinges to the seat, plumbed the hydraulic system, filled it up (no leaks!), installed new air cleaner elements, fitted an extra heat shield/mesh at the drivers station, added small exhaust tip (not sufficient unfortunately) installed new drivechains and put on all the engine cooling shrouds. Before testing the hydraulic system on full chooch I wanted to purge the oil-lines and hydraulic valves of old oil. To do so I hooked the belt on the oil pump pulley and the other end around the drillchuck of a battery powered drill. Gave it a spin and waited for the oil to make it's way through the system. Worked like a dream! Could even build a bit of pressure that way until the belt started to slip on my drillchuck. After that it was time for the real test. Fire it up and see what it does.. thanks to my SO for being the cam-opetator. Went pretty well and still no leaks Next up comes the 'fun' part of fitting some new rubber to the old rims and see what it does in the great outdoors. Now I do have a question for the engine doctors out there. As you can hear the engine runs okay but coughs a bit. I loves to rev and runs fine in the upper rpms but if I throttle it down past halfway full throttle it dies even when I re-apply full throttle, while still having good momentum going in the flywheel so to say. Is this a 'clean-the-carb-well-and-reassemble' issue or a tuning issue. Or perhaps something ignition related or valves etc..?

Slowly cleaning up and prepping this C-145 for winter snow chores. Wheels and tires are done! Rears are Carlisle All Trails in 23x8.0x12 Fronts are Carlisle in 18x6.50x8

The switch in your hand has an I (eye) terminal for battery ignition and the 1994 312 has magneto ignition. The M terminal is required and it connects to the ground terminal in the OFF position. That is what kills the ignition. If you can disconnect the blue wires to the magneto it should run. Do not allow any battery voltage to get to those blue wires. That creates magneto smoke.

I often pull one plug at a time on my twins when trying to locate a problem. They do run on one cylinder.

I have used a small extra heavy duty C-clamp to push the pin in where swinging a hammer is impossible.

I used a nice old ammo box on my lever steer. Over center clasp, nice heavy gasket.

Same tractor with all 4 wheels freshened up.

Just gotta figure how and when to get it the four hour drive to Maine.....

I just hate it when that happens!

I was faced with a slow leak at the seam of the two-piece tank on my 854. I eventually realized it had been very slightly dented, probably due to an impact. I was able to remove all but one of the screws holding the bottom (they were not stainless Allens like you have). At that point, to truncate my loss, I gave up and, because I wasn’t trying for authenticity, went with a 702 tank which then led to making a custom dashboard. Your plan sounds good. There are very few sealants/adhesives/fillers that are truly impervious to gasoline so sticking (pun intended) with one that is should reward you.

Good to know, my NY Mets have been loosing since 1884!

The issues with that "approved" method - it ruined an otherwise good tank. The inner tank was most likely meant for a walk behind lawnmower - it held a QUART of gas! IMHO - not really a fix. Perhaps they should have just ponied up and brought back the 701 / 702 one piece tank??

@bradleydavidgood personally have added a light / medium extension spring to all my , choke / throttle cables , at the opposite end , to pull it closed / stop ? that way you always have a MOVEMENT ASSIST , to any cable movement , of course ,all my cables are lubricated for movement function , https://www.google.com/search?q=light+extension+spring&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&oq=light+extension+spring+&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyCggAEEUYFhge like 3-1 penetrating oil , easy to experiment on this , years in usage , consistently work . pete

Yes, but in all honesty it wasn't a deep clean, more of a in-situ quickie.. Fuel pump I thoroughly rinsed with fresh fuel (hooked up tank/feedline and let the engine run on an aux. tank) after installing new fuel lines. Sparkplug is new and freshly installed. Reading your reply gives me the idea that the carb is indeed the first place to carefully inspect and clean before anything else?

but the sealer I use is called "KREEM" and I just go ahead and do entire tank.

That has the 8hp cast iron tecumseh vertical shaft engine ( VH80 ) that makes it a 1970 . If you were closer I would take her off your hands.

How about a $5 swap meet find that yielded a nice fuel pump, and more importantly, the governor disc I need for my K161? AI can edit my feet out of the picture if that helps!

Happy Birthday

My Horse Herd , From left to right, 1960 model 550 , 1961 model 701, 1966 model 856, 1967 model 1057, 1970 Commando V8, 1971 Charger 12 Automatic.

Nope. I'd describe the tool box on my 8n as being water resistant. It is located under the hood, so that keeps the majority of the water out. The lid on the tool box itself has a 1/2" or so flange on the lid that parks outside the box itself. No gasket. Water could get into the box - under extreme conditions.

Always start with a compression test, that won't always find a loose valve seat, but if the compression is low pull the head. The front head is easy, just unplug the headlight wires and pull the hinge pin and remove the hood, then the head access will be wide open. What I heard, in the all too brief video, sounds like the noise is at engine speed, a valve issue will be half the engine speed. You might want to engage the PTO and see if the noise changes.

I install the taller spindles for clearance too... but for my chipper in particular. The extended length of the chipper body is raised exponentially by the front axle being only an inch higher. Add taller front tires and it made all the difference.

So somebody else who shall not be named Sylvia decided 12 psi was not enough in a tire and figured these where 8 bolt rims that needed 80. And promptly blew out a tire that was dry rotted for from sitting flat for 20 years. Ok fine no big deal a set of new shoes in order right? Well to hell with that lets just put some slime in ... along with a can of tune up in a can with rings that are smoking in a electric motor. Alrighty then... wonder if the poor sob that wanted to do things right had to deal with that? Good thing you took a real day job Kev and didn't have time to deal with this crap. The rim was a real pain to get off even with a special hub puller... then deal with the slime. I've had tires & rims a lot older than this better to deal with! So all said and done right ready to work as the Good Lord intended. New shoes/blasted and painted rims. Did I mention fronts don't hold air either? Blasted and painted them too. Bead sealer works wonders. Still have to deal with the battery acid that was sloshed down around the pan and started corroding things. You boys don't wanna see a pic of that mess. She likes hauling saw gear out to the wood lot tho.

Yep, probably too big for fronts (rub on frame? bore length?) Garden trailer seems likely, or some other implement.

Have a Great Day Jim

Made this Wheel Horse receiver hitch cover.