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I must say I don't even have any play in my steering wheel. I'm very happy with this. But just like the 400 series I had. I'm back on the hook for wheel horses. My wife is like hmm savings account hasn't gotten any bigger. And I'm over here thinking welp it's not any smaller. We doing good baby

May 11, 1947, the B.F. Goodrich Company of Akron, Ohio, announces it has developed a tubeless tire, a technological innovation that would make automobiles safer and more efficient. . While Goodrich awaited approval from the U.S. Patent Office, the tubeless tires underwent high-speed road testing, were put in service on a fleet of taxis and were used by Ohio state police cars and a number of privately owned passenger cars.

Picked up some 1054 parts on my way to Indiana and what looks to be complete front mower mount at the Nappanee show this past weekend. 42" deck is pretty rough, but the one behind it is good!

And shortly thereafter, did the Tire Tube Manufacturers go crying to the Feds for subsidies?? With the mass implementation of turbochargers (and prior use of Catalytic Converters) in domestic vehicles back in the late 1980's, the OEM's saw thw need to change the vehicle exhaust components from mild steel to stainless due to the increased heat. That did not sit well with the three big chains of Muffler Shops, as an exhaust system could now outlast the vehicle. So they petitioned the Gov. for a handout to stay in business. Uncle Sam told them to go punt. Basically it was "So, your Business is centered on under the vehicle parts replacement, right?? Learn how to do brakes & struts instead..."

These were really cheap ones too. Two for like $80. I was plowing a furrow for planting more asparagus roots for this one. Second pic is a Wild Game camera at the end of the field.

And here we go putting tubes back in. Tube should be mandatory for all low pressure applications. Like when you lose air in a tire at a show and it rolls off the bead...

My 2005 Classic has it under the seat. That spot is filled by the filter on a hydro. The 314-H I no longer have. I was a bit hesitant because of the long fuel line run on my 76 Reborn B-80 but it works great. The Dino C-121

Plowing snow! My neighbor and I were both plowing our drives. Me on a C-120 Auto and him on a B-100 8 Speed. I out-plowed him 2 to 1. Consequently he promptly added a Charger 12 Automatic to his collection and loves it for plowing snow. His 8-Speed is definitely better for tilling the gardens.

You mean like the fact that the Central Pacific Rail Road Company made their rout longer than necessary because 20 square miles of land were given to the railroad for every mile of track they put down and the fact that their route meandered from one natural water source to the next so the free land would be more valuable.

Fixed it for ya...

I'd agree except everything around me is like a mt. Yards are all hills and crazy slopes. Manual works great for that for me anyways.

Just say " Waka Flocka!

That might be the kicker. Mount the rock shaft and see if you can weasel it in ahead of it.

Most any place where the suction of the pump will be lower than the bottom of the tank and the fuel hose will be protected from mechanical damage is good. The whole idea is to provide a net positive suction head pressure so the pump won't have to work as hard. They are great pumpers but lousy suckers.

You are over thinking this situation. The condenser is on the negative side of the coil and has nothing to do with power to the fuel pump. You are just using the positive side wire at the coil as a convenient source of power that will be turned on and off with the keyswitch.

Probably best fix for this problem is running a common ground from each load point back to the battery (power source). A little more work and cost but eliminates grounding problems.

That style solenoid was mainly used to keep amp draw on the activating control to a minimum for continuous duty applications like snow plows and electric actuators.

That is correct KP. The starter button grounds out the solenoid operating it. The the other end of the solenoid coil is internally connected to 12v positive large post. You do have to have the 12v from the battery on the correct large post. I forget if they are labeled or not. If not one way to tell is read through the small post to one of the large posts. You should see the resistance of the coil on one of the large posts. That's the large post that gets connected to the battery. Should be open on the other large post. I have no idea why went this route. It's been said this same solenoid was used on some truck sno plow set ups.

If it has the correct engine for '60 it would be a K91. Only real difference between a K90 and a K91 is the governor setting. 3600 RPMs for a K90 - 4000Rpms for a K91.

Pan stand was out for paint. This is the only place on a 520 for it.

I prefer manuals...

I believe the 73-77 C series tractors were the pinicle of engineering and simplicity in the Wheelhorse lineup for a lot of the reasons stated above. They have the updated front mount mule drive which was much more simple and easier to use. The PTO clutch with the throw lever is a really good system as well. Wiring was simple unlike a lot of the later models. And didn't have the starter generator of the earlier models not that there is necessarily anything wrong with them. The transmissions are just as strong as the later models, with a few exceptions in the hydros. They are probably the easiest Wheelhorse's to work on. The hard parts are the hubs, hitch pin and steering wheel, and those are problems with almost all the wheelhorse models/years.

Jim has his mounted under the seat. @WHX?? you have any pics to share?

I substituted the NLA Onan pump for this Kawasaki pump. Mounting bracket is from a Kawasaki. If you go the electric pump route, connect the positive wire to the positive terminal on the coil. If the safeties are activated the pump will shut down along with the engine.

Foe grass cutting by the hour 2nd is too slow 3rd to fast....

Gear oil change today.

She doesn't get out in the sun much.

The C-121,141, and 161 Automatic was only available in 1978 and 79. The C-141 Auto was just shy of 2,600.00 or roughly 13,168.00 with inflation in 2026 without attachments when it was new. It’s top speed is an eye watering 6 miles an hour.

The C-**0 tractors are hands down, my preferred lineup. I also have C-141, which is a good worker, but I hate the tower design because it's a pain in the butt to access the rock shaft for changing out attachments.

HOLY CRAP Mr. U Haul!!!!! I didn't think ya had the stones! He'd show up at plow days with a rented U haul ... claimed it was sensible... No place to store a trailer. Glad to see you got your big girl panties on guy!

Picked up a new (to me) WH hauler today! They sure are proud that it is made in MI!

Part of my job is picking up credit after the work is done. We take pictures of pretty much everything that we do. I showed up here. Park across the street. Nothing unusual. Started filling out the paperwork and I looked over to the pallets that I was about to go fetch and I see this.... Guard cat??!?

If you decide to go with an original and rebuild it, I may have a spare. I'd have to go look. Let me know.

Unfortunately, no. It came with an aftermarket starter when I bought it. The magnets came loose in that one. I replaced it with another aftermarket that I couldn't get aligned to the flywheel. This last one lasted about a year, not sure what the cause of failure was on it, but will do an autopsy once I take it off.

How are you testing for spark? The neon testers will often flash but the current is inadequate to fire the plug. (also have you tried a new plug) Just laying the plug on the head is also not a great test, plug may fire there but not under compression. Does she at least sputter when you spray some carb cleaner in her and try to start it>??

HAPPPPY BIRTHDAY

Happy Birthday, Karl. Thanks...

It is per task the manual is probably more versatile because it can do everything. But the hydro has its place it does well for mowing, putting around, and pulling trailers for yard work. It probably does well at snowblowing as well, I haven't tried it though. For ground engagement attachments the king is the 8 speed manuals.

Yep. The fluid ALONE is over 255 lbs. Then 130 lbs of steel. Then me, another 250 ish. Heavy rig.

On a positive note, I do like the external brake on my C141 Auto - for when I need to park my trailer on an incline.

Dig a bit deeper and you’ll learn a lot more about how plain ol’ profit and competition drove that milestone (with a nod to Abraham Lincoln before he became president, too).

9 times out of 10 my snowplow blade is adequate here in NE Indiana. This past winter we had a couple of storms that were a challenge because I couldn't get enough snow out of the way to start cutting into it. My old snow blower got the job done, but the short chute and its cable control were problematic. I needed more control over where I shoot the snow. Also, I lived through the Blizzard of '78, so I know we're not immune to some ridiculous drifting.

Kind of a 6 Volt to 12 Volt conversion!

I have mixed feelings about taking these special animals. But if I pass, someone else won't. I have mounted one that was killed illegally about 20 years ago. The poacher was arrested and the piebald button buck was held as evidence till the trial was over. After having this mount for 15+ years, I have donated it to Rocky Gap State Park where it is on display at the Park Entrance. This is where the deer was killed in the campground no hunting zone.

Had a real good one way back in 1980. Olds Omega with a manual trans. Under warranty came in with a broken clutch cable at the bellhousing. so I replaced it. Came back a month later with another broken cable. So I replaced it again. This time it looked like the cable was burnt. Turned out the negative cable at the bellhousing was loose 5 inches away from the cable. When starting an arc jumped between the cables and burned through the clutch cable. I have also seen choke and throttle cables glow on Wheel Horses!

I've got an a aluminum trailer and the lights always give problems. The lights are grounded to the frame with a self tapping screw and the dissimilar metals corrode the terminal rings. Would guess the same thing can happen on aluminum engine blocks.

Nice work there! That blade angle at the bottom edge will do its best at mild scraping plus spreading/leveling and even with 48” an 8 or 10 it will manage fine. It will not be much use on unbroken soil/gouging which is just as well ‘cause for that you’d need some extra oomph anyway! (And remember, pressing down too much on the blade with your feet helps the blade but lessens the weight on the wheels and can cause wheel spin!) Another good idea is to avoid heavy uneven loading while it is in use. Excessive pull on one end will try to torque the mid-hitch/frame. The longer WH blades are mounted to the rear axle, similar to a front blade. They can be more aggressive since they tend to dig in when under load where the mid-mount blades tend to lift when under load.

Just took my seat on the plane..how come nobody wants to ask about my shirt OR talk tractors .