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You guys think whatever you want to but I remember reading something at one point that Paul Bunyan and Babe the Blue Ox actually built that.

300 400 series ignition switches are NOT all the same. All 300 and 400 models that were equipped with Kohler Magnum engines from 1987 to 1991 used the 103991-ignition switch and from 1992 to 1997 they all used the 116338-ignition switch. These two switches are not interchangeable. As you can see the terminals on the two switches are not all in the same location in on the two switches. If the wrong switch is used these would be the results. If the 103991 Magneto Ignition Switch intended for use in then 1987 to 1991 models were used in place of the 116338 switch on a 1992 to 1997 model when the switch is turned to the RUN position the Magneto would emit very expensive magic smoke. Turning the key further would allow the starter to turn the engine over but the engine wouldn’t start because you already toasted the Magneto. If he 116338 Magneto Ignition Switch intended for use in the 1992 to 1997 models were used in place of the 103991 switch on a 1987 to 1991 model when the switch is turned to the RUN position the magneto would also become toast. Why did Wheel Horse make this change? I have no idea but please be sure you are buying the correct switch for your tractor.

Little red-neck engineering took place today. Wanted a ramp for the new shed that wasn’t permanent since I won’t be moving things in/out very often. Needed to be lightweight and easily stored out of the weather. Came up with this using plastic car ramps. Tested out perfect!!

Who needs a BA impact gun to loosen stuck blades. Old schoolers just get a longer wrench. This deck may cut again with the blades right side up.

Went back to Polo, IL today for their annual plow day. Turnout was great, weather was great, field conditions were great.....and breakdowns were a plenty. Took my 2 plow rigs (418-8 & 520-8) and was basically done by noon. I didn't get many pics of the day due to the breakdowns. IMG_1108.mp4 Never had a valve stem break off before, but got a clump of dirt stuck between the trans and and the wheel and it must of hit the valve stem on the way by, because all of sudden, I'm leaving a washer fluid trail. Nursed it back to the trailer and parked it with the valve stem up as there was still fluid coming out. No worries, I'll move to the 520-8...Well, she ran good for about an hour and was spitting and sputtering and the engine kept shutting down. Nursed it back to trailer and looks like I'll be replacing the ignitions system (which I probably should have done when I got it anyway). IMG_9314.mp4 IMG_9315.mp4 Since I headed home early, I was able to get everything cleaned up nicely and moldboards protected well before dark.

Tried my luck with reupholstering a WH seat pan. I think it turned out good, not my first time with upholstery, I have done a few projects before. postimage Org may delete my picture. I think I have already payed the government enough to use their site.

glad ya got it. This has replaced a bunch of my cheater pipes and power handles and lug wrenches . Almost worth its weight in gold around the shop and farm.

Is that another "Bar Straightening" spot.

He may have cut the trees and then moved on to Cheese Curd Land. Babe didn't do ditches, she just hauled logs!

put pen around the cracks to see them better

To make matters worse there are switches out there configured like the 103991 where the G terminal has 12v on it on start and run. It powers a kill relay. Hook your mag up to that and you will let smoke out. Triple check when ordering.

Picked up 4 tractors for $500 today. Pics coming soon. Need 2 gone will sell cheap....

Fixed it for ya...

I don't need a charger for mine.

I got this a couple of years ago and now rarely use my air impact guns any more.

Love mine one of the best tool investments I got

Could'nt help myself and cleaned, sanded, primed the first of the four rims.. Reminded me of how much I despise sanding. Three more to go Cheated a bit.. but figured it'll be fine. When everything goes well these will be mounted in the upcoming week.

Actually you have 7 topics that all the non supporters aren’t seeing. Again, let me know if you want them moved.

Got one of these in a kit a few years ago. Only took a few months to: a) realize how often it is just what I needed, and b) that it should only be used with impact-rated sockets (no need to ask about how I learned that).

If the barrels were empty, that would have been downright cruel... "Drinkin' buttermilk thru the week, whiskey on a Sunday..."

OK, you have a 1992 312 which was born with a 116338 ignition switch. You can buy one for about thirty five bucks, plug it in and be done or you can screw around with the wireing and hope you don't fry the magneto. Your tractor, your choice.

Much quicker than my vee blocks, dial indicator, and BFH. https://www.facebook.com/reel/1751731073081812

Guessing they don't have a Pullstart Pot?!? Looks like looongg strait runs. One of these years maybe we can make that one. Iv'e had them valve stems break before. Luckily no fluid in tho. Let us know what shakes with the 520. I do have a few ignition parts here for them.

Thought to my self, I need to mow one more time then I will switch over to the snow blower. Barely made it through mowing because the d160 started running really bad. Seemed to correlate to sudden speed changes and I could smell raw fuel. I believe there is dirt in the float needle causing the bowl to over fill. It seemed like if I stopped and let it run wide open it would recover but at idle it would start to temple after a minute or 2. Tired to pull the carb apart and the gasket fell apart so I grabbed some from eBay. Says genuine parts. I sure hope so but I was having a hard time sourcing the gaskets anywhere. I might trace these ones and try to fit my own. Any who, I’ve had to blow out my air filter 4 times this summer due to dust. I want to try to find a pre filter cover I can oil to help protect the main filter. Not sure if anyone has tried that before. We had a lot of rain this year but my soil is very loamy and if it’s not wet it’s dust. Also I have reached out to several people inquiring about decks. I’m hoping one of the deals goes through. Seems like wheelhorseparts and more isn’t working. I was hoping they had the attachment for the snow blower.

Maybe if you had went with the slot hitch style you could have fabbed up an adapter to get more height.

Very clever, using a heavy washer (Grade 8, I hope) so the lift boom shaft still worked!

All 300 and 400 models that were equipped with Kohler Magnum engines from 1987 to 1991 used the 103991-ignition switch and from 1992 to 1997 they all used the 116338-ignition switch. These two switches are not interchangeable. What year and model number are you actually dealing with? Regardless the switch you have in your hand will NOT work with a magneto.

My version of HUGE extension pipe is a 51 inch long 3/4" drive breaker bar. Rarely use it but with my size and strength it'll outperform all of our impact tools except the strongest one.

As @ebinmaine alluded too earlier real estate and Wheel Horses comes down to three things- Location, Location, Location. Man I envy you guys and gals in them target rich environments sometimes.

Until you overdo it and get the bend going on the opposite side. I have had decent success using Vee blocks like Ed did, but also using the old "Eyecrometer" and the 20 hydraulic press. Fina; reading done with the Dial indicator on the Magnetic Base. Gauging the "spring back" is always a challenge...

I guess inflation lag is a common problem for guys in thier 9th decade. Seems like yesterday when I bought rollers for $50.

If you want this topic (and/or the other two topics) moved to the engine section or anywhere else let me know. All three are here in the supporters section so that only supporters can see them. Non supporters aren’t seeing any of this.

Them is rare as hen's teeth up here. I'd pay five times that and run like the wind. Wide rear wheels. $100 - $200. Splayed forward front axle. $250+ Gear reduction steering. $100+ There's at LEAST $1000 in parts there without knowing if it runs and drives.

The tractor with the frame pictured acted like it articulated in the middle! And yes, I too have described it as moving like an inch worm... Bob - I respectively disagree that just changing the bolts is a proper fix. The compromised frame plate is not the cause, it is the victim here. My Proprietary repair is a fabricated welded-in plate and a set of triangular braces to stop the twist and the fore-n-aft flexing... More than 10 years in use - zero problems.

Very common problem on the Wheel Horses but like already has been said very fixable. The worst one I had felt like you were riding and inch worm when the going got tough. The 520"s I have come reinforced from the factory and what should have been implemented from the beginning IMHO.

Ok, so, I will keep the pump as is. I took off fixed jet Walbro, made a block off plate for mechanical fuel pump, located a Kohler carb and removed the little ball welded to the throttle and I get to have a crow sandwich since the set-up is working. Plan to install a light to let me know pump is getting power but overall,it's good for now 😁. However, being picky, I do still want the original pump just so I have it anyways. Now, time for the next project(s). Thank you all for the help and feedback! BTW, I didn't do much with the carb on it now, sprayed out the main jet and made sure the float and needle moved. Can't believe it was on a motor for 15 or more years under a tarp and bolted on with no leaks or bogging. Think I might start collecting Kohler engines too🤪

Knew you would win the battle. Ed, using that long pipe I think I would grab a flex head rather than a ratchet.

Yes - WH USED TO sell a repair kit that needed to be welded in. It is now NLA. Several of us on the Forum, myself included, have fabricated our own repair plates and stiffening braces to stop the frame flexing for good... PM me if interrested in more info. Bill

The price of an electric pump is about the same as a kit to rebuild the mechanical pump and as Ed said, instant starts and no worry about gas in the crankcase.

Ed, you know that a BFH tool will get the job done in half the time. Might not be as accurate but a whole lot more fun!

Are you referring to the "F" plate on the frame?? All too common. This is the worst one I came across... Fixable but time consuming. 3 out of 4 crackedout - 2 connected together.

I worked for a local Company back in the mid 1980's that manufactured Build-to-order Deep Hole Gundrilling Machines. I spent several weeks in Kokomo Indiana nstalling & training folks how to use & maintain their new transmission shaft Gundrills. Our Machines drilled a 5MM oil hole about 75 MM deep. These machines were part of dedicated Workcells - barstock was fed in one end, finished machined parts out the other. They had an Italian Machine there that did the same straightening thing - rotate the part to locate the highest runout spot, calculate the force & apply it where needed, repeat twice more. If the part was not straight within spec after the third try, it was scrapped. Quick & efficient. The step before the Gundrill was to rollform the splines onto the shaft - one pass revolving the shaft 2 or 3 times under 100 tons of pressure. That process generated NO chips as the metal was upset into shape...

Why, an e=pump will not fill the crankcase with fuel. You will get instant start ups as the carb bowl is filled before you crank the engine. Of course you have to have a carb that is working properly that shuts off the fuel when the bowl is full. IMO, the e-pumps are the bomb. They save my batteries and starters.

On a C120? That should be a Kohler carb. Why not? A good quality, properly rated, electric fuel pump is the most reliable way. Contact our own Redsquare vendor @76c12091520h Brian Badman. The more pics of NON WORKING things you post, the more helpful it usually is to yourself, the person diagnosing, and future readers.

I'll check my parts bin...

Next model finished (except decals - need to order smaller ones for the hood)... As always, no cost - all from bits and pieces... (except @Vinylguy's outstanding decals)... and one original part incorporated into the design...

The grinding marks on the end of the crankshaft aren't in line with rotation. They are horizontal or even in a slightly upward & opposite line. Here's a zoom & crop of your pic above. Notice similar straight lines in the same place. DEFINITELY AGREED. There's a LOT of damage on the journal.