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Here are some photos from the show. On our third day there and still probably only made it through half of the displays, vendors and swap meet area. Picked up a really straight hood for $5.00 in the consignment barn!

When I first saw Dusty in the barn the first thing I did was to see if the engine would turn by hand. Barely!! Upon closer inspection the PTO pulley was stuck, the mule drive pulleys were stuck and the spindles were stuck. Yanking the deck off freed up all but the spindles. Using my old pitman arm puller and some spacers I was able to remove the blocks that the blades mount on I was able to dig out the farm Caa Caa that was binding things up. Got the tension slider working, So now it's off to Billy Bob the Welder for some patch work.

Finally finished Miss Daisy. Parts came under the cover of darkness. New key switch, fuel lines, fuel shutoff and grommet, used ammeter, changed the fluids 3 used tires and the patina treatment. Runs flawless. Didn't have to touch the carb at all, Belt rattles at low engine speed. Thinking of a new belt even though the old one looks ok and an idler pulley. On to the deck to see if I can salvage it and sell it as a unit.

He Ain't Heavy, He's My Brother.

August 27, 1940, Bugs Bunny Debuts: The iconic character makes his official debut in the animated cartoon A Wild Hare.

I used penetrol on a C101 I did a few months ago, I was very impressed with the result. What was left of the original paint was to the point it was turning loose in little chips, so I ended up using steel wool to apply the penetrol and smooth it out some, it was pretty messy

Yes, i never had AC in the shop so I am looking forward to that. I had a propane furnace but I am getting tired of paying for the tank rental and just buying propane in general. I am hoping the heat pump can keep up in the winter but if not I have a 5000 watt heater for backup. The house is getting a new heat pump with an electric air handler for air circulation and backup as well. The house central AC unit has been on the way out for a few years now and this summer the furnace blower went out and it is $1200 just for the part so I am just getting rid of the whole setup. I hope that I am not making a big mistake putting these in. I will let you know next year how they work.. These are both high seer inverter units that are supposed to be very efficient and work in the cold.

At that price point the “fun” part of the hobby is over and it’s become an investment/business dealing or a huge gamble. I’m plenty happy with all the $300-$1000 rigs I have here.

I have two fenders primed although one of them needs more sanding and a re-prime. Two hoods are stripped and ready for sand and prime. I am getting a heat pump installed in the shop so it is a mess right now.

One of my favorite Buggs Bunny episodes. https://www.supercartoons.net/cartoon/hillbilly-hare/

What kind of things does a farmer talk about when he is milking cows? Udder nonsense!

None. The only thing I touched on the carb was look at the air filter.

Expensive yes but hopefully worth it in the end.

My pedal tractor was a hand me down. I broke the steering wheel off of it. My Grandfather made me a new one out of wood.

My "Shelf of Shame."

I’ve seen two B&S engines with oil pumps fail from low oil. Years apart, but both were mowing sideways on sloped lawns so probably the oil intakes lost contact with the low oil in the sump. My guess in both cases is that from the point where the oil level stopped providing adequate lubrication until part seizure was a minute or so. In both cases I saw, the engines had been running around 10 minutes from startup but had transitioned from level to slope only a minute or so before seizing.

Elmer Fudd has not changed that much over the years, but the Wabbit has. Different facial featyres, different voice. But always the same Smartaleck Attitude!

The solenoid is a switch. That switch is activated by electricity flowing from one of the small terminals to the other small terminal through a coil of wire inside the solenoid producing a magnetic field that pulls the switch closed. If the solenoid clicks that is because not enough electrical current is flowing through the magnet coil. This can be caused by bad battery or a loose or corroded connection from either of the small terminals which acts as a resistor thus reducing the voltage at the coil inside the solenoid. A pair of small jumper wires can be used for testing with one connected to each of the small terminals of the solenoid and one connected to the battery + and the other connected to the battery -. It doesn't matter which one connects to which terminal.

So close to being full, but having the bottom sump is great for circulation!

What did the groom say after he spent $500 to rent a limousine, then realized he had to hire the driver separately? “I spent all that money, and I have nothing to chauffeur it.”

I use these routinely and recommend them...

Might have went through a couple tanks of gas trying to take in the Portland Tri-State show. More pictures in a separate post.

Again I mowed the Fire Stationwith the 312, ran it out of gas 3/4 of the way through. Then had to walk back to get my ATV and a gas can. My parents and I didn’t have any gas so I borrowed some from my brother. It's just far enough away to not want to drag a significantly full gas can that far. I finished up the Fire Station, and took my tractor home, then got the ATV, and saw a co worker who saw me go there with the tractor but not back Then he got the short version of events. just for the record, I thought, and still think it was kind of funny how it played out.

Very understandable I got heat but no A/C but don’t think I wouldn’t have it if I could get warden on board. Well got both in part of it but not main shop.

I've always wanted to show a before and after comparison with Penetrol. So I gave Dusty the B-80 the business. Before: After:

I've used pump up sprayer to apply Penetrol to my pickups for several years. I spray it in places such as inner fenders, inside doors, door rockers, frame most anywhere I can get it. and I'm quite pleased with the results in protection from rust. I don't apply it to the paint What it does to the tractor finishes pictured is amazing.

Shop with a heat pump..... You just can't hide $$$.

Another rainy day do I started dismantling the engine for cleanup. I do not believe it needs a full tear down as it ran quiet and smooth. I took some picture of the tin work so I can put it back together properly. Choke and throttle linkage as found. Flywheel ready to be pulled Flywheel puller installed after chasing the threads for the puller bolts. Flywheel pulled and very dirty inside. Alternator coil is remarkably clean as compared to the flywheel for some reason.

So I’m wondering how many of this hoard were actually ridden by children!? As a kid, our family had a pedal tractor that we rode so heavily that we literally wore out the chain and a set of rear tires. Thankfully, my Dad was handy and did the needful to get it back on the road!

The pedal tractor guy was at our Steam Pageant a few years back. Crazy!

A pun walked into a bar. Ten people immediately died. Pun in, ten dead.

Well that’s a pretty nifty tool. I suspect I’d have used one of those exactly never but I’m glad you had one!

Sounds like it could be an issue with the governor to me. I could be missing something here though.

Is yours also cable steer? Years back VinsRJ and his brother Matt found a cable steer RJ35 at the Zagray show. Think they paid something like $250 for it. Vin made a fiberglass hood like the prototype was and did an incredible job restoring it, pretty sure he did a Youtube video of it.

Or NAPA 257315

Tomorrow, I'll see if I can get some pictures that show the massive scale of the event. Garden tractors are only a small segment. Acres and acres of swap meet vendors, antique tractors, hit and miss engines, food vendors, consignment barn...

I have heat and AC in the shop. Northern climate it's unavoidable.

Thanks for that info... I made some more repairs and made some progress and getting closer! Ok, took lots of time looking over the wiring schematic diagram. -Verified 12v on battery. Have charger as well. -It NOW turns over when applying 12v to Purple wire terminal on solenoid. Not sure exactly what I did to get to this point yet...(took apart all connectors i could see and cleaned with small wire brush). They did look good as far as corrosion, but one must've been hooked wrong or needed a better connection. The plastic connection housings are getting brittle. A few other things I did... -The 2 bolts holding solenoid from my other 314 are verfied tight. Same symptoms as original one. - I verified continuity on small red power wire off solenoid to red wire on ignition switch, also black ground wire on solenoid to black wire on switch. Purple wire from solenoid to red wire on switch. -Also several other wires to the plug that goes to the indicator light board. So far I have continuity on every wire I've tested. -I also fixed ignition switch plastic boot and the 5 wires are confirmed correct order/spots according to diagram. -I got the new ignition switch and plastic boot connector and verified switch works on my other 314h. I had switched solenoids and the one from this 314 works good on my other 314. So..... solenoid is verified working and switch is verified working, so it has to be a bare/broken wire somewhere I'm thinking? Or...? I'm not exactly sure where to go from here other than checking over my work but, I'm suspecting a couple things or it Could be a rookie mistake...I'm not above being completely wrong on stuff that I'm sure of! I'm not far from taking the main harness out and going over it all. I'll just want to make sure it goes back with the same bends etc. The kohler is nice since it gives lots more room than my 416 Onan.

My 416-H has almost 1800 hours. No engine problems other than the normal carburetor stuff. That 16hp Onan is more reliable in the valve seat department than the 20hp in my opinion. As far as the muffler, keep an eye on eBay, or contact Lincoln at A to Z, or some of our other vendors. You could also place a want ad in the classified section.

if you have a 42 rear discharge deck ( not a recycler ) I suggest you consider adding a deflector on the rear - - i use vinyl base cove molding and carriage bolts - - it deflects the grass down rather than straight back - keeps the rear underneath of tractor much cleaner

Happy Happy Tom

I have not said a word to my wife in over a year. I figure it would be rude to interrupt.

Built an offbrand Lego set of the 4014 that I got off of Amazon the other day. Even in Lego this thing is huge. Putting it next to the Lego '59 Chevy I got for Easter, its about the same scale factor as in real life so that's a pretty cool coincidence

For those that have not seen one, I hadn't until I acquired a couple '73 Autos. This dash is not in great shape but you can see that "start" returns to "run" without power to the PTO. Counter-clockwise one step powers accessories which in my case would be lights and PTO (clutch).

YES!!!!!!!!!! Way to go @JCM not sure why I didn’t start a thread like this a few years back but I’ll gladly participate. These are a few that are currently in our family... My ‘69 GTO that most on here are familiar with. Dad’s ‘67 GTO. Both of these cars we restored as father/son projects years ago. My Cousins 1980 Bandit T/A with 454 BBC and Tremec TKO600 I’ll add some of the cars that we’ve let slip through our fingers later on when I have time to dig out the pics... can’t wait to see what the other guys post...

Not a muscle car but other than no power and crazy emissions equipment (it is to me a continuation of the 70s) with my twist on it...