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August 28, 1830 The first American-built locomotive, "Tom Thumb," races a horse-drawn car from the Stockton and Stokes stagecoach company from Baltimore to Ellicott Mills; due to mechanical problems, the horse wins!

Nicely done sir.

Marriage is like a deck of cards. At first, you need two hearts and a diamond. By the end, you just want a club and a spade.

Update on the power washer: Berryman's carb dip for an hour. Runs like a charm!!! pump shot - cracked. So I have a perfectly good Honda vertical motor for a future project. And it's on its own mounted cart for ease of moving around...

Heat pump installed just needs covers on charge lines installed. Here is the spec sheet. SB_TW24HXP2A1DITW24HXP2A1DO_20260211.pdf

Have a Great Day Howard

Hope you’re sleeping in today Howard!

Who tells chicken jokes? Comedi hens!

I guess i will keep posting my progress even though this is a Jacobsen it still contains similar components! Now im onto the Kohler K301 had to do a lot of clean up grease oil crud ect!! Now into the motor! Will change fluids on hydro when I know this machine is running@ Pulled the head and man I thought what a disaster but that's what you get pulling a tractor that's been sitting for who knows how long in a field!! Got it cleaned up and it looks pretty good over all will do a flush and valve job and then see if it runs then go from there! Here are some pics of progress!

It’s full enough to give my well a rest, and give the pool a vacuum job! Yay!

On some of my tractors I sit on the side of the seat and swing my leg over the steering wheel. Most know I'm vertically challenged

I’ve run local regular gas in all my tractors since I rehabbed and started using them. I’d assume they have ethanol, but I haven’t had any problems yet with any of the associated problems with running ethanol in the gas so possibly not. I’ve had my 312 for four years and no issues. ethanol in the gas so emissions it will pass but the rubber lines don’t last for us to cut grass with our tractors from the past I was going for a Dr. Seussesqe rhyme I’m on the fence about if I did it.

As requested... Ethanol in gas Nonsensical additive Government of course

ignore the cut down axle - it’s hardened so I had to angle grind. Snap ring in place now

Thanks. Perhaps @SylvanLakeWH can do a haiku?!

ETHANOL: Eventually Tank Harbors Annoying, Nasty, Obstructive Lumps

I finally found out the problem and solution to my D200 rear lift issue. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OFWgezVlYKI

Agreed, all thread is probably grade 2 and is not a suitable choice, unfortunately it's what I had on hand that was long enough. Due to the hubs being about 7-3/8" in diameter and my steel disks being 8-1/2', about the largest diameter bolt that I can use is 1/2". Also, due to the thickness of the metal plates and bearing separator I would need 1/2" bolts that are 10" long or longer. I just checked McMaster Carr and they carry grade 8 1/2-13 x 10" bolts but they are $10 each, add in shipping and I'm looking at $40 just for the bolts with no guarantee they would work. I don't think I can find any 10" bolts locally but I'll check just to be sure. I recently bought a 3/4-10 x 5" grade 8 bolt with two nuts from Tractor Supply and the total was $10 Since one front wheel was toast and the other one not far behind I decided to go in a slightly different route for putting wheels on the front. I purchased a pair of Club Car front wheel hub kits and will be using 8" x 7" wheels with a 4 on 4 bolt pattern. Below is a picture where I used a section of pipe to mock up the spacers I think I'll need to position the hubs properly. Until I get the wheels delivered the size of the spacer is still in question. My initial plan is to position the outer wheel bearing just slightly short of the end of the spindle and use thin shims between the washer and the bearing to create the required preload. Needless to say, this is a work in progress. The goal is to have the wheels positioned on the spindle in the same relative location as original. The original wheels have a neutral or zero offset so the hubs just have to be placed in the same location as the originals using spacers and shim.

I use regular E10 without issue. I do use ethanol free in my two cycle engines and those that will sit for months.

Yeah, I was thinking my Maggie could get some regular gas while it's flowing pretty fast, and then scale back to efree when it's sitting longer

Mostly non E but during the heavy mowing season those horses may get regular. The 418 and the GT1848 are gas hogs so 5 gallons doesn't last much more than a week. But late September (when Rod Stewart was supposed to be back in school ) they start getting non E so that will set in them over the winter.

I and others have added a anti sway device to the front of the plow frame to keep the blade centered. On mine I can also adjust the minimum blade height on this device. I use it when plowing the stone roads. Dozer blades..Keep em centered. - Implements and Attachments - RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum

Yep dealer converted tho. True I quit Harleys and took up much cheaper horses because prices got nuts.

The crankshaft should clean up OK with a bit of muriatic acid. A non-running parts tractor I bought twenty some odd years back had a crank looked just like that and a small chip out of the bottom of the cylinder. Honed the cylinder, put a piston and rod kit in it and it ran well. Sold the tractor a few years later and the new owner loved it.

How much oil was actually in it? There are other things that can happen besides low oil. For example: Not running long enough to evaporate all the moisture in the crankcase, a little stays in the rod bearing and rusts the crank, just a little at first. Next time it runs, the rust smears off a little bit of rod alloy. Now you have a little groove, which will hold more moisture the next time you don't run it long enough. You get more rust, which smears more aluminum and makes more grooves, etc. Keep doing it, at some point enough aluminum builds up that it seizes, breaks off the big end of the rod and throws the piston to top of bore where it stays. In any case, as they say, you are here. And you know what needs to be done.

I think no matter what, you need two antennas just for the cool factor. Even if only one is hooked up, two will look cooler!

Expensive yes but hopefully worth it in the end.

Yes, i never had AC in the shop so I am looking forward to that. I had a propane furnace but I am getting tired of paying for the tank rental and just buying propane in general. I am hoping the heat pump can keep up in the winter but if not I have a 5000 watt heater for backup. The house is getting a new heat pump with an electric air handler for air circulation and backup as well. The house central AC unit has been on the way out for a few years now and this summer the furnace blower went out and it is $1200 just for the part so I am just getting rid of the whole setup. I hope that I am not making a big mistake putting these in. I will let you know next year how they work.. These are both high seer inverter units that are supposed to be very efficient and work in the cold.

I have two fenders primed although one of them needs more sanding and a re-prime. Two hoods are stripped and ready for sand and prime. I am getting a heat pump installed in the shop so it is a mess right now.

Another rainy day do I started dismantling the engine for cleanup. I do not believe it needs a full tear down as it ran quiet and smooth. I took some picture of the tin work so I can put it back together properly. Choke and throttle linkage as found. Flywheel ready to be pulled Flywheel puller installed after chasing the threads for the puller bolts. Flywheel pulled and very dirty inside. Alternator coil is remarkably clean as compared to the flywheel for some reason.

A pun walked into a bar. Ten people immediately died. Pun in, ten dead.

My "Shelf of Shame."

After 1 1/2 days of raking the stones out of the grass and back on the road, I was ready for a fun project. So this afternoon I made a blade centering device for the 312H. I also wanted to stop the hydro lift from pulling the plow frame up against the front axle, so I incorporated a stop into the centering device. Two 5/8" bolts salvaged from a utility pole, a piece of a scrap electrical panel door, a piece of old fuel line, and a piece of a worn out blade scraper bar. It was even warm enough to throw on a layer of Regal Red.

For me, if it has the 754 belt guard and a 7hp Kohler then I would go with the 754. @gwest_ca may have a list of model numbers which may tell you what it might have been from the factory.

Another approach. I use skids on my plow and run on float no down pressure (gravel and uneven surfaces) also like to have extra weight on the front The hole in the lower plate is elongated front to rear to allow for plow going up and down.

When I bought mine from the previous owner it leaked gas from a carburetor o-ring, so he installed a shutoff valve after the fuel filter. I located an owners manual online that said ethanol degrades rubber, so I asked him what gas he ran in it. He said the cheapest he could find. I installed a new o-ring and run only ethanol free gas now.

Finally finished Miss Daisy. Parts came under the cover of darkness. New key switch, fuel lines, fuel shutoff and grommet, used ammeter, changed the fluids 3 used tires and the patina treatment. Runs flawless. Didn't have to touch the carb at all, Belt rattles at low engine speed. Thinking of a new belt even though the old one looks ok and an idler pulley. On to the deck to see if I can salvage it and sell it as a unit.

Apparently, there is a lucrative market for toy tractors. Like anything else, there are specific models and features (like open grille and closed grille) that affect the value. We talked to a friend today who said that his buddy sold 2 (restored pristine) today in Portland. One for $1,000 and another for $1,250. Said he only sold them so that he could buy a different lot of 3 rare tractors to restore. Unbelievable!

Good idea thanks!

Well, this is what happens when you take a reasonable, reliable, pushrod engine and give it to the Germans and ask them to make it OHC.

Finally I have it installed , all the pieces are there (almost), works as it should. I have to tweak some things here and there, I probably oil rusty parts, I am not going to paint it. Pivot points needed some grease. There is connection bar with holes, I don't know, maybe chain links are better? I installed plow just to check if everything works. .

How are you planning to get power to the front? I see the drive sprocket, so I assume a chain drive of some sort.

Agreed. I wouldn't even do that. If I needed to transplant a non Kohler engine, I would find another Kohler instead of using ANY of the "inexpensive imports."

I will be there in my dreams. Can't wait for all the YouTube videos of it. I just love Customs and Street Rods, sad to say it will be mostly late model (1970 and newer is late model to me) cars. If the owners are proud of them that is fine, it keeps the hobby going and makes me appreciate the real Kustom Kruisers that much more.

For not being at work today I have been pretty busy. Ran 880 lbs of mostly sheet metal across the scale, ran to a friend's house and cut down a dead tree, and hauled half of it away. It was bigger than I remembered and I didn't take the right stuff, so I ran out of fuel and the only chain I had went dull. Not the end of the world as the trailer was pretty well full on this run anyway and I should make a second trip just because of weight. Then I came home and did some brakes.

Woodward Avenue Dream Cruise is tomorrow... Goodyear blimp arrived for the festivities and flew over our park... https://www.woodwarddreamcruise.com

Isn't that the way it's supposed to work? Switch is open until you mash the pedal down?