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Today
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November 28 2011 - December 17 2025
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December 16 2024 - December 17 2025
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November 16 2025 - December 17 2025
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December 9 2025 - December 17 2025
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December 16 2025 - December 17 2025
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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/16/2025 in all areas
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11 pointsMaybe not. Looked out in the back yard last night to see a black bear working on the bird feeders. Opened the door and asked him to leave ... he wandered off but was back 10 minutes later.. Today I went out to find the feeders and see where he had been. We are having some work done and the contractor has a dumpster and a porta-potty. set up. Bear tracks went right up to the door of the porta-potty
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11 pointsThe first notes are on papyrus ... that's an indication of how long @ebinmaine's been "working " on it... Trail cam of Eric ordering the first parts list...
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10 pointsThe only tractor that was designed and built in Texas is this Jacques Mighty Mite model MM and the subsequent model 10. They were built between 1946-49 in Denison Tx. I believe @oldiron has a model Jaques model 10. I've had one of these on my someday list for quite a while. A special thanks to @Chrishar for finding and helping me haul it to the farm for short term storage. Since it was built in Texas, it's kind of on the level of a Pond RS83 to me. I think it is roughly the size of a Pond, and some what similar in design. They don't have the following that a Pond has, so thankfully they are not in that price range. I've read somewhere between 35500 to 5000 were built under a couple of different names/owners The angled bracket on the rear hitch was a plow mounting bracket. The front wheels are a 2 piece split rim, the same as on a David Bradley 2 wheel tractor or an early Sears/David Bradley The front axle has Jaques Mighty Mite cast into it. The original engine would have been a Briggs 23 or some later ones had twin cylinder Wisconsin's. Someone did a nice job of retrofitting an electric start Kohler K301 into it some wherein the past. The clutch linkage is stuck, but looks complete. I need to learn if this is the original "Twin-Disc" clutch o that was done when the Kohler was installed. It has the original foot and hand clutch, but the hand clutch handle has been modified I need to figure out was transmission this is. it is a 3 speed with reverse and a top access gearbox. The rear axle is a shortened Ford Model T "Banjo" axle. The rear axle has drop boxes on it made by Jaques, then looks like it uses the Ford Brakes and Hubs. Lots to do to get it working.
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8 pointsYesterday we got some snow. Saturday I put the blade on the c-145 since my C-120 that is supposed to have a plow on it is in pieces. Yesterday morning put a new scraper blade from a public works snowplow on. That should last awhile! Then it was time to shine. Love plowing fluffy snow! And today did a bit more cleanup. IMG_1281.mov
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7 pointsDecember sixteenth is the day to celebrate National Chocolate Covered Anything Day. Indulge in a chocolate fountain or fondue to dunk any treats you fancy or drizzle your favorite desserts in delicious sauce and syrup. National Chocolate Covered Everything Day is here to answer these questions and encourage the celebration of this delectable dessert accessory!
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7 pointsUpper steering shaft ready for pre-install. I will slide on an O ring to prevent washers and bushing from sliding down too far on initial setup. Upper steering shaft shim washers ready to be slid on. Upper steering shaft O ring, shim washers, and bushing slid on. Upper steering shaft installed into steering support block. Console ready to be installed. Console temporarily installed. Cotter pin just slid into hole with just enough shim washers to take up any free play. Console removed and stackup of shim washers above cotter cotter pin thickness measured to find a proper thickness washer. Upper steering shaft greased on all contact areas. Lower steering shaft fan gear greased. Lower steering shaft set perfectly level. Upper steering shaft installed with a 1/4" pin punch in steering wheel wheel roll pin hole and aligned so punch sits level while ensuring lower steering shaft stays level. This ensures proper gear mesh so steering wheel will be straight. Upper steering shaft cotter pin installed and one leg bent to hold it in position. Washers (of thickness determined earlier) and bushing slid on. Console placed back on ensuring bushing is properly seated and the Left side bolt screwed in finger tight. Right side front bolt installed finger tight. This will be how this bolt will stay for now as it has ground wires and a clip to go under it as well at a later date. PTO stop ready to be installed. This gets bolted in to the Right side rear of console. PTO stop installed. Rear console bolts both tightened. Console is now installed. Overview as of today.
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7 pointsThe only record keeping that I do is an inventory. I have a USB stick that is on a key chain, this has pictures, serial numbers, & approximate value of each tractor that I own. Should I kick the bucket, my wife or son will at least have some idea of what they need to get rid of. For maintenance, I put an hour meter on every tractor that I have. Every 25hrs they get an oil change and a good looking over. 100hrs includes a change of transmission fluid & filter if applicable.
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6 points
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6 points
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6 pointsI gave up on using any kind of easy to use pins there, now I use only cotter pins and bend them both ways. I replace them as needed.
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5 pointsLooks like I got here before him For ag tires there really isn’t many you can get for 24/12/12. But the new thing for tires all over pulling clubs are called Cheng Shin. They are cheap and man these tires have been great. We’ve been using them I think 3 seasons now. And the good part is they don’t take as much power as say the firestones do. https://www.millertire.com/23x10-50-12-cheng-shin-tractor-lug-4-ply-tire/
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5 pointsWell I'm going have to start doing sumin I changed the oil twice in one week on one (trans and motor) and still havnt made it to the right machine that needs it. Me thinks I'm going to start journal and start writing things down about each machine, initial cost, seals replaced, problems fixed, problems that need fixin, maintenance schedule, etc. etc. I never thought about doing this in my younger years. Dat gum I hadn't even thought about the different pieces of equipment. Might even help if/when you go to sell/trade sumin. I'm not complaining, I'm blessed to have this "problem". Now what was I going to do, Oh yeah buy more oil.
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5 pointsI have created several Xcel spreadsheets so it is easy to easily look up P/Ns rather than comb thru manuals.
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5 pointsPersonally I would tap the holes but another way is to buy a pair of self tapping screws.
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4 pointsHey guys, Well, greetings from way out here on the West Coast in California. Not too many members out here. I don’t think, seems like there were a ton of our tractors here although mine is an original one owner Tractor before me who purchased it in Escondido California. I have all of the records of everything, including the original bill of sale. It’s wonderful. Anyhow, today was day-one of disassembly, and as this has been a working Tractor for several years now, everything came apart beautifully. No frozen nuts. It has basically been effortless. So, all of my experience is with the restoration I did on CASE 444 tractor, But the nice thing is the similarities between the two for many things. I plan on upgrading the steering arms using Heim joints instead of the ball and socket joints… It was a huge improvement on my CASE. I’m sure I’ll have some questions going down the road, but the beautiful thing is I am finding almost zero corrosion, except the panel area inside… is that aluminum or magnesium? It’s got some powdery corrosion on it. Best to you all, Jason
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4 points
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4 pointsLand trac ... lawn trac... high run ... all the same tread design. Problem is ain't a one gonna be the same size. When I ordered those on your 1257 I had no idea how wide they were. Or how they would inflate on a rim. Strait sidewall, bulged, flat tread... you just don't know. If I remember right those were 80 a tire and when they showed up I go holy crap. Hard to believe same size. Well the stocks may only be 23-8.5s ...ags 10.5 but still.
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4 pointsThose are the same just a different branding. They are sold under upmteen different names. Those would make great pulling tires for just for fun. I got nothing but good remarks in the plow field with those. I ran out of belt grab way before traction.
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4 points1985 312-8 would have a K301 with points and condenser. Have another condenser you could try? Have you checked the valve clearances? They do not need it often but if never done a 1985 model is due. Have had success adding a shot of Marvel Mystery oil to the fuel or 2-stroke oil if you have it. Lubricates the valve stems in case they are lazy at closing. Do one thing at a time so you know what the fix is.
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4 points26-12-12 Firestones would be the best pick in my opinion. Should only have to jack the fenders up about 1/2" to get enough clearance. At least that is all I had to do with my C101/1257/etc.
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4 points
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3 pointsAs a fellow Bear I can assure we DO 💩 in the woods. And porta potties. Never under a bird feeder though.
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3 pointsNo, the contractor likely still had a firm hold of the door--probably a one-holer
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3 pointsNothing left to do on either 3 of mine! I need another!
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3 pointswow, I didn't see that 8 ball yet. So much to look at at figure out, especially the clutch and rear brake linkage and assemblies. For now I want to get it running. I'll start out keeping it original. If I end up with a lot of disassemble for repairs it might end up going the restoration route.
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3 pointsI write hours and date on oil filters if equipped. Same on the air filter ring. Grease at the start of the year, in the middle of summer and in the fall. The older Kohlers stuff gets a fall service, I really don't run those very much. Take some pics and catalog bigger jobs. No formal records. Maybe some could switch to cubs and save the record keeping!
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3 pointsI was plowing the other day with the FEL and noticeg the plow swivel bolt is loose intentionally. It allowed the blade to ride the ground contour and self level as compared to the frame. The blade at the ends could tip about 2 inches. Just something to think about.
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3 pointsYup. I generally do the spring - fall oil changes, when I do the implement & tire swap. Grease the moving parts. While the rears are off, check the grub screws on the hubs. Pull the Unidrive dipstick to verify fluid condition & level. AND - check the Kohler oil level before each use.... Seems to work for a couple of decades so far.
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3 pointsDo labels under the hood and on all the filters count? If so, then yeah most definitely I do.
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3 points
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3 pointsDefinitely. Part of my being neurodiverse is a terrible short term memory. I use a couple phone apps to help with many things. Calendar 📅 Notes 📝 I keep a list of "To-do" for every tractor (and many other tasks).
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3 points3 day snow event here finally over. Went to my mom's today to clean up driveway after her plow guy. Used dad's Troy Bilt GTX 20 w/Bervac. He bought it new in the 90s back when Troy Bilt was owned by Garden Way. Don't remember exactly what he paid but I know it was alot for tractor, 48" mower deck, 2stage Bervac, & plow blade. Really nice tractor. 20hp Vanguard, hi/lo rear axle, hydro, power steering, cruise, electric pto w/all implements shaft driven. Wish he would have got the available front loader. So at least this winter I get to use a one, just not mine yet ☹️ Sorry @Ed Kennell its not your old Bervac..... 20251215_132155.mp4
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3 pointsThe opposite actually. Cold air is denser so more can get in. Cold fuel doesn't atomize (spray) as well either. Sort of a double negative. More air and less effective fuel spray means you're likely running lean. Not the best for an engine.... Try turning the adjustment screw(s) Just a tad... out. Experiment and report back.
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3 pointsMade one of my faves that I learned to like while in Austria. My pork schnitzel with sour cream gravy.
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3 pointsGot some shop time today. Popped a couple 520H tie rods off for a fellow Redsquare member. Trina got the Military Tribute Tractor "Millie" in for a couple belts. The S/G belt was so worn the unit was barely charging. The drive belt was also well worn. We did some investigating here and found that the universal transmission pulley was too wide and also too deep. 68" belt is far too short. 70" too long... Unfortunately the middle option of 69" belt was also about two hairs too long. This tractor has a 6 speed that had no pulley with it. I believe the best course would be to get a bushing from 3/4" down to 5/8" so she can use the original 3 speed pulley. We do need to figure out how to find that bushing/ adapter. @Achto @kpinnc or others? We also found the belt guard is bent and/or has a broken section near the engine. Trina filed that down.
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3 pointsAs posted in my restore thread, I put down the last of the colour for my bonnet with the black detail. Clear coating later this week. Now that its starting to warm up down here, painting is getting easier.
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3 points
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3 pointsMine got a work out this morning and they performed great. I got nearly 4 hours of seat time clearing 4 inches of wet snow from 7 driveways and mail boxes.
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2 points@FLtractor here is a good manual for you. Free down load. https://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/tp_2379.pdf I see that your governor wheel has the extension arm on it. The cable should be run over the top of the muffler and hooked to the extension arm. A pic for reference.
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2 pointsWell yes kinda.. So running the engine on the Dino and trying stuff we found the magnum air filter gave the most power. But in my class I need to run stock air filter assembly. And magnum air filter to a k series block does match up. So we had to switch everything from a magnum to a k series. And the electric fan is so I don’t overheat since there is no cooling fans on the engine for more power.
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2 pointsThe somewhat shallower and more widely spaced bars might let them stay more atop the dirt avoiding the friction of digging in and pulling out of a deeper tread.
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2 pointsturning circle nowhere near the original, mainly due to the UJ used on the steering limiting the lock, but its still good. The front axle can be disengaged, so the transmission wind up won't happen and it turns as intended.
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2 pointsYou and your son do fantastic work, thanks for taking us along the journey with you.
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2 pointsSunday December 14, 2025 after the big and cold snowstorm! 6 inches of snow and about ten degrees this am. I cleaned off my driveway and my neighbors! The 1974 Wheel Horse 8 hp B-80 worked great! When i went to my neighbors to plow the angle rod push pin fell out of the rod! Went back to the garage to retrieve another! Back in business. I really like the snowplow i have. Only 42 inches wide but years ago i put a five hole sector section in the plow for more flexibility on the angles. I can angle my plow five ways!
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2 pointsThere's a set under The Ugly Bruce tractor. I wanna say these are 1 inch thick.
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2 pointsShe plows! Still need to work on the lift stuff. Try to get another inch of lift, check which lift holes were used etc. Cruised down to the old shed to see if I have any “trapped” mice (aka, DEAD!)
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2 pointsYup. Got them on the blade and blower tractors. A must to protect our long asphalt drive. After using them I like them as well and probably better than steel. I do quite a bit of dirt work with the blade in the summer and they are great in the dirt too.
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2 pointsFront fender bracket ready to install. Note the large washers that will hopefully prevent the Hoodstand from cracking again. Front fender bracket bolted into place just loose enough that it will move around. Fender sat on to verify bracket placement. Turns out front fender bracket needs to be moved forward as far as possible for the holes to all line up. I then removed the fender and checked to be sure the front fender bracket is square by measuring to the hoodstand as shown. Both sides were 7-7/8" so good there. I then measured side to side from hoodstand to outer edge of front fender bracket. Just over 2-3/4" both sides. Front fender bracket bolts torqued to 204 in/lb. Shown here are the large washers installed. They are different only because that is all I had on hand.
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2 pointsParking brake lever assembly ready to install. I am installing an early style as I do with all of my builds as I don't like the later style with the plastic knob on the left side. Parking brake bolt, washers, and spacer installed. Never seize on the SS bolt. Parking brake lever assembly installed and nut torqued to 30 ft/lb. Parking brake lever spring installed. Shift cover plate sat in place to verify parking brake lever location. I cut out the slot for the parking brake earlier this past summer. Adjusted brake spring according to manual.
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2 pointsI looked at mine, and swore at it for a bit because the side panel wont go back on. Then went back inside.
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