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January 19, 1883 The first electric lighting system employing overhead wires, built by Thomas Edison, begins service at Roselle, New Jersey.

I decided to add shallow grooves on the steering shaft to retain grease under the welded-on gear. The coiled pin in the steering wheel did not want to budge, so I had to leave the upper end assembled. I had to do some creative fixturing but added five equally spaced shallow (.030 deep) grooves inline with the root of every other tooth of the gear using a ball endmill.

its not mine. (But could be!). I know of the guy with the FEL and he want to sell it. It needs a seat. Ok, what’s it worth? A 93 314H, I didn’t see it run, it was out of gas. But, let’s assume it runs. It’s a Kiki way loader and it’s got non leaking lines. I think the lines are original. The muffler is whole! I mean, lets assume its got oil to be changed, fuel lines and an air filter to be changed. Shoot me all the questions and I’ll try to answer them! I mean, I’ll make sure the loader works!

So, what do you guys think? $2000-2500?? Im gonna try to get it for less than that.

Well I finished the steering wheel mods today. Tomorrow will be reassembly- at least some of it. I raised the steering wheel about 2.5 inches. Might be too much but that's easily fixed if needed. So I decided to support the upper shaft with not one but two bearings. I welded a couple inches of 1 inch steel pipe on both sides of the factory bushing holder. I also placed a needle bearing in the bottom and a regular wheel bearing on top. The bearings are about 4 inches apart, which stiffens the whole column quite a bit. Not sure why the paint buggered up, but it looks good enough. Also added a grease fitting to keep those bearings slicked up. I cut the upper steering shaft and drilled it to accept an extension that was from a Toro Groundsmaster. Then I added the other half of the shaft with about 1.5 inches of separation. That raised the steering wheel the full 2.5 inches above what it was previously. Of course I needed to have a sleeve of some type to make the steering wheel and upper console match up. Luckily I had some aluminum stock left over so I turned a couple down on my lathe and added a setscrew to each. Not perfect, but looks decent. I also replaced the roll pin with a bolt with spacers. I bleeping hate roll pins! The steering is much tighter than it was before with almost no play. What little there is comes from the reduction unit, and it's as snug as I can get it without it binding. Huge improvement!

Well it’s not what I did today, but this past week. Myself and another guy dug the hole for a foundation of a new house. Mostly I push material to the guy in the excavator who bales it out of the hole. Then I finish grade the bottom of the hole with the dozer +/- 2” for the masons. The hole is almost but not finished in the picture, I just snapped it after lunch one day. This is in one of the most expensive zip codes in the country. 1.9 acre lot- 7 million dollars. Spec house that will probably list for around 23 million! This whole area used to be nothing but farmland mostly potatoes and corn. From this point you used to look across approximately a mile of fields and see the ocean. Now it’s mostly houses with some occasional fields. It’s sad really.

They are limited to what they can do but come in handy for many tasks. Not a big deal to install and remove.

Foot rest rubber bumpers ready to install. These are just what I happen to have here, not really the ones that were used originally. Foot rest rubber bumpers silicone used as adhesive since the holes in the foot rests are just slightly too big for the bumpers to firmly snap onto. Foot rests ready for rubber bumpers to be installed. I cleaned the footrest and rubber bumper where the silicone is to be applied with contact cleaner so it will bond better. Foot rest rubber bumpers installed. I used a small screwdriver to apply just a thin layer of silicone to the rubber bumper before installing them to the foot rests.

Did you try pulling harder?

The grease goes out the bottom anyway - there is a blow-out from the OE machining process. I figure the packed shallow grooves help to smear the grease.

Same technique for mine... 3rd season and going great!

I put a winch on the dedicated snow machine. I hurt for 2 days anymore using the manual lift. I do about 3/8 mile of drives.

happy Birthday @JC 1965, we are glad you were born.

Foot rests ready to install. Left side foot rest ready to install. Right side foot rest ready to install. Tractor ready for foot rests to be installed. Now I need to wait a while for the silicone to cure so don't knock the bumpers off installing the foot rests.

Might be from when it fell off the overhead and hit the missus car ...

For me this would depend on my plans for usage. If you plan to finish the inside then I would go with a stick built, just easier to do an inside finish. If there is no future plans to finish the inside then a pole building might be a better option. You mentioned that this would be on lake property. Is there a lake association or township that would have a say in what kind of building that you can out up? If there are a lot of trees around, then I would do a steel roof no matter what the building choice is. Shade from trees as well the leaves or pine needles that tend to build up on a shingled roof keep it from drying out. This greatly shortens the life span of the shingles. One other thought. Not sure how Michigan tax laws are but in Wisconsin a pole building with a gravel floor is not considered a permanent structure, thus the property taxes are much lower.

Unfortunately my services were required at work on Saturday so it was kind of an unproductive weekend for me. A big Thank You to @WHX?? for the nice steering wheel. It cleaned up very nicely. I also painted a few small items for the engine today. Fly wheel, governor arm pieces, & little trinkets & doo dad's. I did get side tracked with another project. I'm helping a friend set up his Simple-city with a Magnum 16 Kohler. This was a yank start engine that we converted to electric start. Fits perfectly in the frame. He carved out an adapter that bolts to the flywheel so that the drive shaft can be connected. A few little kinks to work out on this yet but it is coming along well.

Through ice and sleet and snow. They made it here.

Agreed. Follow the @SylvanLakeWH rule!!

Actually @JCM I’m not talking about the Kwik-Way, my bad ! Mine is a Wheel Horse loader which I believe is actually made by Ark. I think I only took it off once before realizing it was easier to leave it on and just get more tractors for different attachments!!

The first few years I had just one tractor to do everything, I could install or remove the loader under a half hour. The front axle and spindles should be upgraded to handle the load, the 520H tractors have what is needed. Also. gear reduction steering will help a lot, the weight really makes it difficult to steer.

Wow, never heard of such! Yay I learnt a new ting today!

OK thanks that the part number I have also just wasn't sure about it. its like about 5/8 wide I seen on a post someone was using a 1/2 wide belt . id rather not used aftermarket.

From my experience, once the loader is on that’s it. It becomes a dedicated loader tractor. You’re not switching attachments like you would mower to tiller, or tiller to plow. It’s a process to take that off or put it on. That being said, go get it and add another one to your collection!!

Ok I fixed it. I got it running better than it ever has since I’ve owned it. I can now run it with no choke on, and idle it way down without it surging. I’m not sure any one thing I did fixed it. I think it was a combination of things. First I took apart the original carb and cleaned it. I was able to reuse the original gasket that goes between the halves. Although the next time I take it apart I should probably buy the rebuild kit with a new gasket. Next I cranked it over with the fuel hose still disconnected from the carb. It seemed to not flow very well. Less than the gravity flow through a 1/4” like for sure. So I swapped out the new aftermarket fuel pump back to the original. Then tested it again. It seemed to flow quite a bit better with the original pump. At first when I put it all back together the carb bowl wouldn’t fill. So I popped the top off the carb again and shot some more carb cleaner through the needle valve on the float. I cranked it over and saw fuel filling the bowl so I put it back together. She fired right up and runs good. Now I can focus on my rear wheel spacers and getting chains on it. I guess my lesson here is beware of aftermarket parts. They’re not all the same spec as Onan. Most likely if I had just cleaned the carb and resealed the intake I would have been golden

Got these in the post. Grinding disc is for size reference.

As promised more pictures. You guys are making me feel bad for wanting parts from this tractor Hope the pictures give a better idea of its condition. Been painted a couple times with a brush. Needs all tires and front wheels. The wiring is not great. Hydro pulley is bent and fan blades broken off. Seat latch is gone. The list goes on. All that being said, I'm still not 100% sold on robbing parts from it. I had limited time while both girls were down for naps so I quickly threw a jump pack on it. It would crank over 1 revolution and stop every time I tried. So I helped it along spinning the pulley by hand. It'll crank now but slowly. That's where I stopped as the + post on the s/g started smoking after only cranking a couple times. As mentioned the wiring is sketchy. I found 2 loose connections in the 10min I played with it. When I get some time to sneak away to the barn again I'll go over the wiring and start there. I definitely think it'll be a runner

Ive plowed 3 times Ed and no problems yet. I just hit the button real quick and it lifts about 3 inches. Which is what my manual lift did. It has the wireless remote. As soon as you let off the button it stops. Fingers crossed.

28 degrees? the heat is in the tools! my shop is 50/60.....that is why not as much gets done!

Flywheel screen ready to install. Flywheel screen bolts and screws ready to install. Flywheel ready for screen to be installed. Flywheel screen loosely bolted on with the four center bolts. Note the upper right hand center bolt is in line with an outer screen hole. It is critical to line this up right or the outer screw holes will not line up. Flywheel screen loosely bolted on with the four center bolts and the six outer screws. Flywheel screen bolts torqued to 180 in/lb and screws torqued to 22.5 in/lb. Flywheel screen installed.

Plastic scraper, flat blade screwdriver (being careful to not take the paint off), rags and elbow grease. No cleaning chemicals or even water. This spring I’ll remove the fender and guards and all and it’s get a proper pressure washing.

So you basically removed all that paint protector! LOL Amazing how deep that stuff was. And BTW you missed a spot!

Front axle ready to be installed. Front axle pin ready to be installed. I made this up at my old work place and it uses a cotter pin instead of an E clip for the secondary retainer. 3/4" pin is stainless steel and the tab is carbon steel. Tractor ready for front axle to be installed. Front axle installed. Front axle pivot pin bolt installed and torqued to 17 ft/lb. Front axle pivot pin stainless cotter pin and thin shim washer installed. Tractor assembly as of today.

Yeah, only fault I can find with them, they run a little small, but I have had great luck with them front and back. They wear great and don't seem to dry rot/crack over time like some of the others I've seen.

Gravel drive? PVC pipe. Protects the grass too!

I have been using tractor supply made in USA hose for a few years now very happy with it well-made. Have a good day.

Wished I could remember where it came from and why I didn't use it on my 701 resto. I guess it was the challenge of restoring 701's

Well, after a weekend of up and down with a friend's son's truck doing exhaust work I think I can safely say the lift is fixed. And the shop needs insulated.

Does it come with weight box with both axle brackets ? How about the 2 loader stands if you want to remove it ? That way you could drive into it to disconnect or reconnect .Makes it much easier.

Steering wheel and tube ready to be installed. Tractor ready for steering wheel to be installed. Steering tube slid onto steering shaft. Never seize applied to steering shaft. Flat then bowed washers slid onto steering shaft. Spirol pin never seized then partly installed into steering wheel but not blocking shaft hole. Steering wheel slid onto shaft then a 1/4" pin slid in opposite the spirol pin to align holes in the steering wheel and steering shaft. There is just a small amount of tension from the bowed washer to hold the tube in position. Spirol pin ready to be driven in. Spirol pin driven in with this punch that has a locating bump on the end. Spirol pin driven in until the pin protrudes out of each side of steering wheel. Steering wheel installed. Steering wheel and tube installed.

Does buying one count?

This morning

@jsoluna That post is THE definitive reference for your front tach o matic.

Me either but there's over half a dozen of em here.

Same reason for my choice.

This thread is really worthy of being pinned for quick reference!!!! Using the information and directions @pfrederi posted it was a cinch to break my electric PTO down. Unfortunately the larger bearing is the one that to this point no one has located a direct replacement for. However, the one I pulled out is still in great shape and I may go the route of using alternative bearing and try shims. I took the opportunity to sand blast the rust, acid etch prime and paint the 3 pieces and once dry, will re-assemble, replacing the smaller outer bearing at a minimum. Kudo's to pfrederi for posting this process and the bearing information!!!!

I figured out some of the bearing issue. I had not observed that one of my hubs had a longer bearing surface than the other 2. The hub on the left uses the high shouldered bearing and the distance between the snap ring groove and the step on the shaft is 21.3 mm the bearing is 21.9 thick. Note the snap ring grove is wider than the snap ring was thick...makes up the variance. The hubs that used the 6207-40nsl bearing that surface is 16.8 mm the bearing is 16.9 again I guess the slop in the snap ring groove makes up the difference. The other news, today the bearings showed up and they are 6207-40nsl. Perfect match for the flat bearing. So if you have a hub with a 17mm +/- surface you can get a replacement. I noticed the TSB mentioned checking for shims behind the bearing ( I found none anywhere). i would think you could use the thinner 6207 bearing on the hub with the longer surface if you added a few shims. 6207-40nsl $18.00 6204-nsl $6.24 What I can't fathom is why all hubs have 5/8 NC threads but one uses a different bearing....

I think the one on right might be a bit jerky when engaging. I had never looked inside an Electric PTO before...Interesting

Prefer the manual PTO's. There's just something "abrupt" when engaging the 'lectric PTO unlike "easing" the manual PTO into action. I like to spin my mower decks on slowly.

The only electric PTO I have is running the hydraulic pump to a Johnson Workhorse FEL on my GT-14. Sudden engagement is not a concern for me, but if it is engaged and I have the lights on the charging system is being overtaxed, probably not going to change to manual clutch (too lazy), but will probably change the lights to LEDs.