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So somebody else who shall not be named Sylvia decided 12 psi was not enough in a tire and figured these where 8 bolt rims that needed 80. And promptly blew out a tire that was dry rotted for from sitting flat for 20 years. Ok fine no big deal a set of new shoes in order right? Well to hell with that lets just put some slime in ... along with a can of tune up in a can with rings that are smoking in a electric motor. Alrighty then... wonder if the poor sob that wanted to do things right had to deal with that? Good thing you took a real day job Kev and didn't have time to deal with this crap. The rim was a real pain to get off even with a special hub puller... then deal with the slime. I've had tires & rims a lot older than this better to deal with! So all said and done right ready to work as the Good Lord intended. New shoes/blasted and painted rims. Did I mention fronts don't hold air either? Blasted and painted them too. Bead sealer works wonders. Still have to deal with the battery acid that was sloshed down around the pan and started corroding things. You boys don't wanna see a pic of that mess. She likes hauling saw gear out to the wood lot tho.

Thanks for the replies and help. GREAT NEWS, it tries to run with carb cleaner, that's all I had to use besides gasoline. Probably got a 3 to 5 second run time. Followed everyone's advice and found the reason for no spark was mainly the breaker points gap was too wide and they never closed. Couple of questions though. 1- The side of the coil wire that goes into the coil was very black. The coil itself looked like new and the PO said that he had replaced it. What can cause that as it fit pretty snug into the socket? I cleaned it. 2- One of the 4 screws that hold the flywheel dust screen to the flywheel is turned out a few turns and works great to help turn the flywheel. Anyway, When testing the breaker points open/close with my ohm meter, the meter would give a tone when that screen screw was at about the 3 o'clock position. As I turned the flywheel clockwise, the tone stopped (points opened) at about 10 o'clock. Is it normal for the breaker points to stay closed for over 1/2 turn of the crankshaft? AH, maybe this 1/2 turn is engineered for timing adjustments? Did not attempt timing yet but great video. I couldn't find the timing marks on the flywheel through the peephole. Ok, so I guess next is to get fuel to the engine. The tank is pretty dirty inside and I don't remember seeing a fuel filter yet. I am thinking that i need to remove the carb and disassemble it to see what shape it is in. Outside has some white powderish oxidation, I believe it is and looking inside the throat of the carb, it is the same. The choke cable will not move and I believe the cable is fine but the choke rod is stuck. I did pull out the high speed needle adjustment screw. It was a little hard to turn but did come out ok. ITs a little tarnished but overall looks ok "to me". Doesn't appear to be bent and no signs of being over tightened in the jet. Yes will be taking the gas tank off to clean it as well as new fuel lines and filter. The fuel tank cut off valve has a find screen on it. Should I attempt to remove the fuel cut off valve at the tank and clean it or leave it alone due to the rubber seal? So where to from here? I do have small fuel tank can use as an IV drip for testing. Once running then I will remove the cylinder head and do that work. Also there is the water I found in the transmission. Both PTO pulleys were frozen along with at least one of the mower deck bearings. I am guessing that the idler pully for the clutch may be bad also. Question about rebuilding the carb. I have rn across several articles and one that goes into great depth about rejetting these carbs or replacing the high speed adjustment needle. There is an article here on our forum I believe about drilling out the high speed adjusting needle. Does anyone know anything about this and what it does? I ask because in my carb parts there is a new high speed adjusting rod but it has a couple extra holes already in it. Thandk Charrie

What all the other guys said!! I can only add it's like this when your steering it all day you develop muscles 💪 or bad shoulders. Tuff machine!! If your really going to work it replace the 5/16 normal bolts in the bull gear to 3/8 grade 8 or 9.. Remember to be sure you have the parking brake off never forget.. these machines are tuff but look up all the few things that are weak and fix them cause parts are becoming hard to find. These machines remind me of a old D9 Dozer but remember, up keep is going to save you in the long run! My 2 cents.

I’m sorry to hear of your wife’s struggles, hopefully things are better now. I didn’t realize, my buddy is behind my lever on my 520Xi in that picture!

Hey Guys I was DarrellF before, Been awhile but im back. Real life was beating me up some, but ya can't keep a Wheel horse guy down. From Pennsylvania with my blessings 🙌 thanks Darrell Francisco.

Great deal! We’ve got to keep that old iron moving, they sure don’t make ‘em like they used to!

First off thank you Pullstart for bringing this one back and saving it from one that knows no better. I'll mention no names here Sylvia but what the double hockey sticks happened here? Wanted to smoke one??!?!? Good Lord for NOS this thing sure looked like it been in the hands of somebody didn't have a clue... just sayin .. for never have mowed a blade of grass ?? I have no clue but I ain't even close to done roasting you Jimbo! Hope you haven't left yer sense of humor in the top drawer! Original thread here ... stand by for how It's done RIGHT!

I seen your posts I've been studying wheel horses for years I've already checked the place your taking about and it seems fine but I will definitely keep an eye on it and maybe do what you did just for the sake of fixing a possible problem... Thanks Pullstart! Always be open to improvements 👍

the Xi series garden tractors are amazing, with nearly a truck frame under them! Please check out the front axle pivot, it’s the only known weak spot in them. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/92609-xi-series-front-axle-pivot-repair/ You’ll find a Wheel Horse plow mounts to the rear axle, where load is driven from. JD plows transfer that stress to the front axle. I’ say use or modify whatever Wheel Horse plow you need to use their design. The tractor will thank you.

The other two wires coming from the rectfier/regulator are probably white and come from the engine. Unplug them from the regulator with the engine runnIng at 2/3 throttle or better test for AC voltage AC between the two of them. Should be around 30 volts AC

They are readily available and inexpensive...

Well, The long frame C series, 300 & 400 series plows are very common... why not start with one of those?

IF you have access, using a drill bit about .010 smallet than the hole from the backside to align the block & shaft prior to having the pin engage the shaft takes the fishing part out easily... IF you have the room. Get the pin thru the first side of the block, into the shaft & pull the drill bit out...

Depends on your intended jobs for it. I you must have a heavy duty garden tractor (which I doubt) then here it is. If you want something to putter with then keep looking.

Another way to say that it is a 45 to 50 year old orphan. Unless you already have 2 identical parts machines. A true rugged beast in its day. IMHO - not prime to be a solid investment now. Others may say to the contrary... Again, IMHO.

So it’s kind a inbetween machine .. too heavy duty or finkiy with steering, hydraulic and attachments ?

Bigger heavier. Difficult to work on 3pt is a valuable option. Attachments are unique to D series.. Back blade is nothing special. Not a very maneuverable beast. Cast iron twin Kohler is an industrial engine very heavily built but parts are getting very rare. Overkill for a 48" mower deck I have a D200 with a loader...

Thanks Again for all the input on the Big D , waiting til weekend for present owner to send video of machine running / operating / in-action to better judge. Cheers

OK I will go first. Front end loader attachments in working order and with the sub-frame bring $ 1500 to 2000.by themselves. The three point hitch adds a couple hundred or more and the tiller and mower may add $ 500 to $1000. If it runs and drives well and you WANT it be willing to pay-up a price of could be $ 3500 could be considered very reasonable.

The first pic was giving me a stiff neck..flipped it for ya!

Steering is known to be problematic on "D's" and with a loader it can be compounded. Also the trans/ engine coupler are known to fail and are NLA.

Welcome! Yes, pictures of all are needed to see if it is a "Show Case" or a "Show Stopper"!.... One thing to consider - all the implements for any of the D series - D180, D200, and D250 are unique to that series and do NOT interchange with the more common B, C, 300, 400, 500 series.

You’re going to get values that are all over the place. I recommend you post up some pictures to get a better “guess” from the forum.

Ah ok ,it is exactly the contrary for my Gutbrod 1300H which is a Colt Case Ingersoll 3016 rebadged Gutbrod !!

My 420-lse with only 20 hours . Trying to keep up with @c-series don . 🤠 b93e294b818ae0c0557c55d68b4eae6a.mp4 b93e294b818ae0c0557c55d68b4eae6a.mp4 IMG_0447.mov