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As we are proud grand parents and its little Franks first birthday, what better than his first Wheel Horse. Built by his clever uncle Ewan…

TGIF!

@whtractors24 Son of gun! You got me beat Jason! Mine has 24 hrs on it. 😂

My 420-lse with only 20 hours . Trying to keep up with @c-series don . 🤠 b93e294b818ae0c0557c55d68b4eae6a.mp4 b93e294b818ae0c0557c55d68b4eae6a.mp4 IMG_0447.mov

@sqrlgtr How do you get under trees with that tall flag on the 160?

Had a few out for some fresh air today.

@Thegearhead0324 That is one of my favorite tractors on Red Square! I always like seeing pictures of it. I’m glad you got a sickle bar back in it. The whole setup is sweet!

MY BAD!

July 27, 1940 Bugs Bunny, Warner Bros. cartoon character created by Tex Avery and Bob Givens for the Looney Tunes and Merrie Melodies series, debuts in "A Wild Hare".

You can get more tension on the std Wheel a Matics by replacing the 2 slot head screws with longer allen head screws with a couple of washers. You can it tighter with an allen wrench as opposed to a slot head screw . I did this a year ago and it's still tight.

Nice. a few comments in no particular order: Fiberglass panels… Up to a pretty impressive limit, the fiberglass panels will be incredibly damage resistant. Unlike metals, fiberglass composite is completely elastic right up to its failure point. So as long as it doesn’t crack, it will rebound fully. The polyester resin matrix will, over time, yellow and lose some translucency due to UV exposure. It will also get a little more brittle as this happens and will eventually start to bloom some fibers. Depending on the inhibitor package mixed into the resin you can expect 7-10 years outside. Keeping it inside stalls that deterioration process. Even without sun, the inhibitors will still be consumed and lose effectiveness over time. The most active degradation reaction mechanism is called free radical polymerization by the way. This is when a photon on UV light knocks an electron loose from a molecule and which is then free to swim around in the plastic and react with things. Commonly, additional cross links form between polymer chains, thus stiffening and embrittling them. The inhibitors are mostly free radical scavengers which have active sites that have a special affinity for those radicals. analog free radical reactions happen in your skin and tissues too causing all mannee of damage. All those makeup and cosmetics commercials you see have a (very small) kernel of truth to them when they talk about such things. Lights… I’ve seen people shoehorn a 5A blade type fuse into the two adjacent battery and taillight pins of the 7 way plug to power up their running lights from the brake battery. Apparently if you lightly twist the blades just a little bit it will pop right in. Same as the jumper, but with a bit of protection in case something goes wrong. I rigged up a toggle switch at the junction box on my trailer (just like your pic) between the battery terminal and backup terminal so I could switch on a reverse facing flood lamp and power it from the truck supply independent of having the gearshift in reverse. This gives me a work light available and a backup lamp for nighttime launching. I’ve used it a couple of times and it’s been a nice addition. I just assumed the lamp would work from the trailer’s onboard brake battery too even when unplugged from the truck. No such luck. My battery is apparently isolated via a diode so it doesn’t backfeed the truck or allow power to be present out at the plug. I don’t know what the convention is, but mine doesn’t permit powering up anything from the battery and yet apparently others (like yours) do. I assume that same diode also clips off a half a volt or so of charging voltage when connected to the truck and may be the reason I only get a couple years out of a battery…it’s chronically undercharged. Chargjng… You can install a fairly cheap DC-DC converter or DC-DC Battery Charger between the trailer power wire and your battery to achieve a full charge. If you pick a small one you don’t have to worry about overcurrenting the feed from the truck as they are self-limiting and also typically don’t allow battery discharge back through them when off. Nice ones have adjustable charge profiles to allow you to later switch battery chemistry if you desire. Most aren’t weather sealed tightly enough to be mounted outside, so it would have to live inside like your inverter. Some even have Solar charge controllers in them to allow roof mounted panels to charge the battery too. still on charging… I haven’t done it, but I am considering running 6 AWG wire ftom my truck’s battery to an Anderson connector under the rear bumper. From there, plug in another cable and run it up into my boat where it would feed a sizable DC-DC charger to charge the 24v battery bank for the trolling motor. A second circuit would go to the 12v cranking battery. I’ve moved my boat to a storage lot that doesn’t have power and this would enable me to recharge at a high rate while traveling to and from the lake. As it stands now, I take a little generator with me that I run on the return trip to get as much back into the batteries as I can. What’s happening is I’m slowly killing my lead acid batteries since they never get fully charged. Eventually they’ll be lithium which charge quickly and tolerate being stored with a partial charge, two things lead acid don’t. But I’d still benefit from at least being able to actually top them up fully. there are days where I might draw 35A out of my 24V system for a couple of hours. Best case, I can only get 5A out of the current charger and I might only run the gennie a couple hours. So I’m presently going the wrong way most of the time. I can see this sort of setup having significant utility for campers or trailers like yours. I think on the road at high engine speeds the alternator would cool sufficiently and its internal currents would be low since the voltage would be up Not cheap of course, but manageable. Finally, inverters… It’s not going to be common, but if your inverter isn’t a pure sine wave inverter you may find some devices that won’t like it and may not run. Some inverters put out a square wave or choppy/noisy modified waves that some equipment might recognize as problematic and not operate. We tinkered with a sizeable modified sine wave inverter at work on a piece of equipment and the onboard microwave oven didn’t even try to run, yet everything else seemed fine. The takeaway from this should be to make sure you trial everything before you take a trip away from home base. Great progress. Looks like a pleasurable diversion. Steve

Built an offbrand Lego set of the 4014 that I got off of Amazon the other day. Even in Lego this thing is huge. Putting it next to the Lego '59 Chevy I got for Easter, its about the same scale factor as in real life so that's a pretty cool coincidence

The last couple of days I've done the little nitpicky jobs like welding some hood mounts on, wiring up the kill switch, installing the throttle and choke cable, putting oil in the engine, and running the fuel line. I'm close to being able to run and drive it I just need to get the carb straightened out because at the moment it only runs on a shot of brake clean and isn't getting fuel. I did pop the line if the carb to make sure I had fuel going to it but I think the main problem is that its all gummed up from old fuel because when I took the bowl off it smelled like varnish and it was very dark and cruddy.

Which one will make you smile more?? Is the 7K your out of pocket cost or will coverage help out? I doubt that Jason takes supplemental coverage!! I wouldn't!

Made a couple mods to the Wheel Horse tiller. The front cover plate was missing, so I scrounger a piece of steel from an old real estate sign with the intension of sanding it and using the red primer method of creating a matching patina. When I got it installed, I just couldn't sand off the eagle. The tiller was only 22 inches wide, so I added two pairs of tines to each side to make it as wide as the rear tires.

Raining here so snapped pic in basement of C160 waiting to go out side and play

Today's progress so far has been welding up a cracked seat pan, putting the tranny on, putting the front axle on, putting wheels on it, cutting the top of the tower off because it was too tall, putting the fenders together and putting them on, measuring where to cut the too long steering shaf, and setting the little bits and pieces on it for mock up.

Looks like it would be about right, but I find Vevor products to be variable in quality. It might be a good idea to be able to move the charger between tow vehicles and trailers as needed, just use quality connectors and provide weather protection. I don't know about running that charger without a battery, perhaps you can get the manual for it. You still need wiring heavy enough to carry the amps involved at the estimated distance and voltage, the charger won't be able to compensate for wires that are just too small. Another option is to run an inverter for 120VAC and use a small battery charger. The 120 volts can use much smaller wire to cover greater distances and then the charger can be close to the battery, of course you need to protect the higher voltage system well. I wouldn't be very comfortable with 120 volts across the hitch because of potential damage or error.

The 9 pin was an Onan thing. It offers no advantages unless you plan on doing frequent engine swaps. I would suggest you are much better off wireing the engine connections from scratch. The Onan is a battery ignition engine and the Vanguard is a magneto ignition so you will probably want to insert a "KILL RELAY" in the rewire.

I realized I never started a thread on this attachment, I’ve only mentioned it in other threads. I made a good handful of picks last year and I don’t recall where this came from, but it’s very handy for mowing my deer trails! Since I used it yesterday and seem to loose grip on the old belts, I decided to replace both of them. The spindle belt I used is a Huskee 1/2x86”, but it is tight at the smallest end of my adjuster. I’d recommend to myself next time to use an 87” belt. The PTO drive belt is a 1594 NOS Wheel Horse belt.

Good info Kev. Bret Esse has one and some decks I could probably get for short money and put it on busty or alice for a brush hog. Use it across the road for trails and the junior plow field.

DNA 1980-1984 Carrier model 07-01MC01 1985-1988 Carrier model 07-01MC02 1989-1993 Carrier model 07-01MC03 1994-1998 Carrier model 79380 Taken from this service bulletin Drive belt with front mower carrier and single cylinder engine 109956 (1/2" x 102") Drive belt with front mower carrier and twin cylinder engine 102742 replaced by 94-2501 (1/2" x 103") The 1594 belt used in this thread by Pullstart (1/2" x 107.21")

Leaky seals are a hub removal's best friend They tend to come off relatively easily as compared to dry ones.

And the 3/4" hitch pin.

Definitely Nope

I should know better than to brag on how well the truck ran. Well, i discovered oil in the antifreeze-not a lot probably no more than a cup-but enough to let me know I had an issue. No bubbles in the radiator, so I assume it wasn't a cracked head or blown head gasket. The engine has never overheated. The oil in the engine was low mileage and still clean and it showed no water. In conferring with a mechanic buddy he and I wondered if it was a leak in the motor oil cooler inside the radiator? I was pretty sure it was motor oil and not automatic transmission fluid. I bought a new radiator after pressure testing and finding seeping antifreeze in the old one between the plastic and aluminum when I applied 20 psi. The radiator cap is 16#. I disconnected the lines from the radiator and was hoping to see if pressurizing the radiator would produce a leak from the in-tank engine oil cooler connection point but couldn't hold pressure long enough, Once I had the old radiator out, out of curiosity, I removed the oil cooler, placed it in water and pressurized it. A steady stream of small bubbles came from inside the hollow tube. I had no idea of what the cooler was going to look like. I'm amazed that much cooling takes place.

I drug home a 520HC engine-less roller the other day, I'm contemplating on putting an engine on it and making it a cow field maintenance buggy. Its in good shape, except for the no engine thing. Because... why not.

deflection if you will. It has the ability to ride up large objects that may be hiding in the long grass. It’s quite nice to have the hopping bugs gone baby the time I arrive too!

There is a ton of twist in the frame of this. @c-series don gave me a straight frame, and I need to transfer all the hardware over. It needs new bushings for the spindles and I’d like to give it some sort of lift kit for the big weeds and grass.

Little tree trimming/brush hauling with the C-160. At least I can get under tree with Truck and load of hay now . It dont take long to have a yard full of brush when u get to cutting with the pole saw.

Pretty sure they are still on the endangered list so right call Ed

The little vent on the right rear sheet was fun. I pulled the vent off, forgot to measure, then proceeded to install the aluminum! A little precision guess work and I found center enough to saw a 2-1/2” hole, then trim the edges to 3” with some hand shears.

Big trash night score tonight... Picked up down the street with the A-60 and the trailer... Owner says ran when parked... we'll see. Motor spins freely.

I am not sure about small engines, but in general I have found it to be exceedingly rare to have the actual part numbers stamped or cast into the part. They are usually stamping numbers that reference the die or mold used to make the part, or an engineering number that can be converted into a part number with the correct reference material.

Owww look ... scotch locks. Now don't get too excited about those Dan. Won't have any skin left to close yer eyes... Why does it look like that rig has sky lights Kev?

The motion control on Wheelamatics is anemic at best relying on two little springs to hold tension on the placstic plate. Here is something I am setting up to put on my neighbors 1075 or my 875. You need to get the motion control with the big cross spring from any later hydro gear or piston to piston sunstrand. It will fit right in the only glitch is the later one had different bend in the control lever. So I cut off the one from the late model and am grafting on a cut off from the older style. Shaft collars and set screws are temp until I check the alignment .

Yeah, he has a tendency to do that.😁 90% of the parts for my C-141 Auto project came from him. Between talking to him and this forum building that tractor went a lot smoother than I expected it to.

Just in the nick of time….Front end Friday. I would have gotten a better picture but I had shorts on and bare knees. Gravel and skin don't mix well.

Nice .Always liked those. Never seen one for sale.

C-81 with LED headlamp bulbs apparently.

I took this pic the other evening.

I mowed my elderly parents lawn for them a few weeks ago. I did it with the 312-8 after their 20 year old Cub Cadet's PTO decided it wanted to stop engaging. It was past due, but the tractor kept chugging along. My parent's, specifically my mother was happy was taken care of.

It looked way overdue! Nice job

So I am fond of making use of other people's trash... thus this thread. Here is my latest: skibenchapelli... Trash picked: bench, two pair cross country skis and one pair down hill skis. Remove rotted wood from bench, cut skis to fit and bam... a new very permanent bench... kokopelli on skis was my artistic inspiration...

Ten minutes to clean it up and give it a "Black Hood" Wheel Horse look... Off to the neighbors house for their kiddies to enjoy... (Free Shipping... )

In general, the current crop of homeowners will total any kind of outdoor power equipment in short order. They don't care and will simply replace their junk with new junk at the drop of a hat.