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Last few days was very productive, I made clevis hitch along with rockshaft and other small pieces. I can't take credit of this version completely because I found many ideas on this forum . Unfortunately clevis hitch is not perfect, my tools are basic and mechanical skills too, but everything works well. I don't have any hitch attachements but that will probably change. I think about some kind of rakes and weeder/ cultivator. I don't need plow or tiller. Clevis hitch is slightly bigger, measurements are little bit different (slightly longer and wider at trans shaft) - I adjusted it to my homemade receiver hitch. Receiver hitch had to be improved too. Shaft is not moving (7/8- 22 mm diameter),secured to side plate by nut, washers and spring cotter pin. Other spring cotter pins secure moving arm at one side and shaft itself. That arm is moving freely

For me, it comes down to 2 factors - the price difference between the so-so and the better procucts - and the biggie - the PITA factor. How difficult is it to change out? The axle seals on a Unidrive are a good example. Short change in price, but can be a chore to get the hub off. I always use a top quality brand for that. Do it once, do it right.....

October 7, 1960, the first episode of the one-hour television drama "Route 66" airs on CBS. The program had a simple premise: It followed two young men, Buz Murdock (George Maharis) and Tod Stiles (Martin Milner), as they drove across the country in an inherited Corvette (Chevrolet was one of the show’s sponsors), doing odd jobs and looking for adventure. “Route 66″was different from every other show on television. For one thing, it was shot on location all over the United States instead of in a studio. By the time its run was up in 1964, the show’s cast and crew had traveled from Maine to Florida and from Los Angeles to Toronto: In all, they taped 116 episodes in 25 states. The show was a serious drama with social-realist pretensions, but its nomadic premise meant that it could tackle a new issue—war, mental illness, religion, murder, drug addiction, drought—every week.

I have been having fuel issues with my 1054. I have changed the fuel pump to electric and have not gotten over a year out of three different Amazon pumps. I ordered a Facet pump and installed it and also changed my fuel line, fuel filter and removed the sediment bowl. The sediment bowl would catch some trash in the tube and not allow fuel into the bowl at times. I rode it today for about 10 minutes and the issues are gone, runs great, starts quickly and not starving for gas. I think this new setup has taken care of the fuel issues.

A duck walks into a tavern and orders a beer. The bartender thinks "Wow, a talking duck," and pours him a beer. The bartender asks "I don't think I've seen you in here before. Do you live in the neighborhood?" The duck says "No, I live across town. I'm a drywaller, and I'm working the office renovation across the street. I just dropped in for a beer before going home for the day." The bartender, while trying to imagine how a duck handles drywall, asks "Well, how is that drywall job treating you?" The duck says "Well, as you know, this isn't a union town. The pay isn't that great, but it pays the rent and keeps me in duck food. I get along with the other trades, so I guess it's O.K." The bartender says "I have a friend who runs a circus. Would you like to talk to him about a gig with the circus? The duck said "That's ridiculous. What would a circus want with drywall?"

Electric fuel pumps require clean gasoline to work well - some type of decent filter is required between the tank and the pump. A coarse screen button style is not the proper choice...

New tires and wider rims on the 314H. Used VHT wheel paint. Not a fan of it. Turned out really rough. Re-sand and paint in the spring. Now to paint the wheel weights. Plan on using the 314 as my plow tractor this winter. Just had the driveway repaved, so going to try a poly edge on the blade and no chains.

@BPEisenhower @WHX?? @ebinmaine Did someone say something about collecting C-Series tractors? 😂 I just happen to have a few! And a few other models as well !!!

Prepping some wheels I picked up from @Retired Wrencher for this winters plow tractor. Kinda neat that they were made by Firestone. Just grey primer went on tonight. I’ve had these never mounted Carlisle All-Trails on the shelf for a few years, will be nice to put em to work!

I tried a couple $10 pimps. They both died the first season. Now have the $30 Carbole pumps on three tractors for several years with no problems. I mount them as low as possible and have good filters before the pumps. Also remove the in tank screens from the petcocks. Do not let the e-pumps run dry.

Yeah, I'm in the buy once cry once camp on most things, but the Carbole fuel pumps get some good praise on here so thought I would give them a try.

Farmers earn a meager celery, come home beet and just want to read the pepper, turn-ip the covers, en-dive into bed!

I believe those are easily obtainable from local sources using the numbers in the transmission chart

Agreed. Value is not just financial.

Some well placed heat would be my first choice, if not successful, then cutting would be my next choice.

My experience is that with almost anything, you can buy a good (more expensive item) once or or a cheaper item several times, both seem in the end too cost the same!

Got a few things accomplished on the 754 today. The governor spring finally showed up and I got it on. Installed new bearings in the front wheels. Replaced the idler pulley for the mower deck, only to realize the oil pan is on backwards! The drain pipe is coming out of the RH side and interferes with the idler pulley! Waiting on Lowell to get some of the seals I need back in stock before I go after the leaks (input, brake shaft, both axle seals) EDIT: (almost forgot) Shortly after this video I went full on @peter lena and hosed the entire thing down with PB Blaster! But she is definitely drivable now!!!

A decision you'll not regret! Did the same to my '76 C-120

https://www.google.com/search?q=shoulder+bolts+tractor+supply+3%2F8+x+2+1%2F2&sca_esv=8de974bdd654ed99&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&biw=1028&bih=606&sxsrf this is a regular for me , setting up ANY SWING MOVEMENT START , as stated , just do not bolt it on together , MAJOR MISTAKE ? its too tight or loose , add flat washers on each end to ensure , swing is on smooth bolt area , aerosol red grease , secure PERFECT MOVEMENT , with elastic LOK NUT , literally DIAL IT IN ! also do this from a roller stool ? comfortably sitting / looking at the m REPEDITIVE PROBLEM . do a trial on your own , issue , thats how I started , that pto / mule drive area , is LOADED WITH EASY ELIMINATIONS , years in , mine have never returned . look for best price , availability , then do a small TRIAL ? thats how I started , my changes are HIDING IN PLANE SITE , and they CONSISTANTLY WORK , isn't that what you want ? my plow swing quadrant , works like a rifle bolt , smooth , quiet , easy . try something . pete

Was lucky enough to get the call and snag this machine a few weeks ago. here are the two videos I created for its revival Part 1 Part 2

I recall the building of RT 95 thru Providence as a kid. It took several years and many detours to be completed. I mention detours - my aunt lived on the other side of 95 and it was always an adventure to get there and back on our weekly visit. A tidbit - the infamous Thurbers Avenue curve was not part of the intended road path. A straighter route more inland was intended - but that got redesigned after three local Politicians had bought up all the houses in the path of the curve and, somehow, the intended path failed all the Perk Tests..

Them $10 pimps will get ya in trouble

My wife and I got to do part of our bucket list and drove a section of Route 66 last year. I wish we'd had the time to do the whole road while it was still complete. But that takes me back to my dad. In the mid 1930's, he was asked by his foster mother and father, who had just gotten a brand new Packard, to drive them out to Los Angeles. So they went to Chicago, picked up Route 66 and drove all the way to L.A. and back. I wish there were pictures. That trip could have been a movie, "Driving Mr. & Mrs. Daisy".

Penetrating oil and a few well-placed hits with a cold chisel to expand the race metal will probably break it loose. Heat or Dremel other possibilities.

No, it’s just the primer, although I do really like the grey! Going with Cottage White (linen beige) as the final color. Hoping to get a first coat on tonight

Wow Mike nice job on re pant the rims. Is this the final color.

When you put the pullies and spacers be sure they are in the correct order .

What if Stacy's Mom was Jessy's girl & her number was 867-5309?? Sorry if your too young to get that.

Why did the cow cross the road? To get to the udder side. Where does the general keep his armies? In his sleevies. why don’t fish play basketball. They have issues with the net.

What concert cost just 45 cents? 50 Cent featuring Nickleback.

I've fabricated three different style pedal setups. All self center. One is totally bolt on, just tap an existing hole in the hoodstand. The pedal setup on the GT1800 is my first attempt. The second attempt is shown in the first three photos. That pedal is totally bolt on. The last one was my latest attempt using a pedal from an MTD that I got on ebay. Not sure which one I like best. All could use some tweaking that I haven't had time to do.

I had some dirt to dump out back. It’s been too long since I’ve Horsed around, so I took the long way home on Steve Oh Two.

Your scenario does not put the threads in shear - much better than OE...

The one in the first three photos is probably the best. Totally bolt on. I would like to shorten lever that connects to the transmission linkage, but if I do it hits the steering fan gear. The thow of the pedal itself is very short. The arm on the other two pedals is the same length as the cam control in the hoodstand. Much better pedal pressure. Like I said, all could use some tweaking.

The addition of tubes in the rear tires will allow you to fill them with winter windshield fluid - about 5 gallons per tire, another 35 lbs of weight per wheel - where it belongs. OR - no tubes but use RimGard (beet juice) IF it is available near you. Almost 10 lbs per gallon and does not damage the tire or rim. It must be dealer installed though, I understand. Adding shallow inner wheel weights - about another 35 lbs each helps too. Ditch the cement filled plastic weights and upgrade to the cast iron ones gets you even more weight, although it can be pricey. I am not a fan of adding weight on the frame / hitch areas, as that puts more load on the rear axle bearings. IMHO, the best place for the weight in on / in the wheels... AND, you get an added benefit from the liquid sloshing around inside - once it is in motion, it continues to do so - a huge benefit while plowing! Front wheel weights and AG style tires make a huge difference too in the snow...

Wow, that must been quite the trip, indeed! I can remember during my childhood my parents’ excitement when new sections of turnpike or interstate were completed or a new bridges got built to let us travel more quickly. They were more about the destination than the journey having limited money and a car full of sometimes fractious young children!

A photon checks into a hotel. The bellhop asks, "Do you have any luggage?" The photon replies, "Nope, I'm traveling light".

I built each pedal setup for around $100 or less in materials.

its actually several weights and hard to see but has individual handles in them, but you may have been pulling my chain.

Here is another pic of the kit I have it works in the same princeable as @Bill D's but the neutral return plate is located in the trans control tunnel. It is the plate located to the right in pic and I actually wrote on it in black majic marker, but like I said earlier it had a spring missing which pulled it back to neutral.

Thanks. It's basically a spin on Matt's return to neutral setup, only in a different location.

Working on the next project. Again from only repurposed items in the parts department (except decals from @Vinylguy which are on order). Special recognition for those who spot the original Wheel Horse part. This one is intended to be a B-80. Some progress shots below. I'll post more when I get the decals...

New drag link on 701 and made a little weight bracket out of a old repurposed mule drive. Its on the C160 but can use it on any tractor with mule drive hitch up front. Hood has about 1/2” clearance when fully tilted open.

Very nice. Good upcycle on using scraps. My electrical stuff is spread out across several kits. Some of the boxes came with the components but one of them is an old metal nut and bolt drawer from a dealership I once worked at.

What aspect ratio does she prefer - 16:9, 5:4 ?? Below left to right 1974 C-160 Automatic, 1973 16 Automatic, 1976 C-120 Automatic

Here's some pictures of the pulller I built.

31-14K802 1987 414-8 Garden Tractor 8 Speed Kohler M14S-601524