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November 7,1962, Richard Nixon concedes his loss in the California governor's race, telling assembled press: "You won't have Nixon to kick around anymore because, gentlemen, this is my last press conference." He would win the presidency six years later.

Bless you for taking care of a house of worship. Are you going to have to replace or recut the glass or do you think the aluminum is wide enough to trim a little off each side? The majority of storm window frames are a channel and if the outside were removed the sides would fall off. Not knowing all of the details I am inclined to think @Handy Don idea of routing the openings to fit the storm windows is the best way to go. Attach a temporary guide board to each side of the window and select a flush trim router bit with a bearing that will give the depth of cut you need. Set up a temporary scaffold or other safe work platform and trim each side to fit the storm window. The router will ride on the Temporary Guide Board so a secure work platform is very important since tilting the router in either direction would give you an improper cut. Give the fresh wood some oil based primer and a topcoat of latex exterior paint. Here is a drawing of the before and after router work.

Absolutely agree, especially when being used on thin stock. Pro installers tend to use a compound miter or chop saw as it lets them hold the stock firmly while making the cut. Is your goal to make them narrower and shorter and reduce the glass area as well? Every storm window I’ve encountered was assembled with cast aluminum corner pieces crimped into a tubular extruded frame. These are not easily disassembled without damage. I get not wanting to caulk, for sure. If this were me, I’d seriously consider: - router the inner edges of the outer wood trim boards to the size of the outer edge of the aluminum window frame. This creates a recessed mounting surface and removes the splintered current mountings. Use a router bit with a guide bearing set properly. (Some manual chiseling to “square” the corners would still be needed) - then, because the “ledge” is still too narrow, add a ledger strip (use weatherproof glue and nails) to create a more secure (and now weather resistant attachment) - lastly, maybe, add a bit of aluminum flashing to re-direct rain coming down from the upper trim piece out away from the aluminum frame.

Put some decks away for the winter. Left one on the 310-8 with Trac Vac for collecting leaves.

Aluminum cuts surprisingly well with woodworking tools. We used to have several 10” woodworking miter saws at work stationed throughout the shop in individual workcells that were used to cut aluminum for cut-to-fit applications where we can’t do it ahead of time in a better cold saw. I don’t remember the tooth count, but it’s in the 100-tooth range for most extrusions like 1/8” thick angle and channel. Thicker stock got fewer teeth. We used to use the piranha blades but changed to a local place that also sharpened them when needed and made them with flatter plates. The piranha blades were just thrown in the scrap when they dulled. there was enough of a degree of halfassery with these setups that we largely phased them out, but cut quality was always good and aside from the flying chips it was no less safe than a lot of other processes. The weld shop guys still keep a miter saw handy for their use. I haven’t cut aluminum for a long time on a table saw, but I’ve cut up to 3/4” plate a few times using just carbide tipped blades. It works well but the flying chips are a real hazard. I never had an issue but I would think the kickback danger is increased compared to wood if things aren’t nicely aligned or your technique drifts. it even routs pretty well with a handheld router, but it can get away from you if you take a heavy pass. Depending what you’re doing, a pass over a carbide tipped spiral bit on a router table might work too. soft aluminum - like 5052 - will stick to the teeth. Harder aluminum like 6061 is much more forgiving. There will be some magical feed rate that will get the best results. If it’s sticking, you may have to cut faster. The guys at work apply some kind of stick wax to the cutline at times. I have no idea what storm windows would be made from. Seems like most extrusions would be 6000 series. best of luck and be careful. Steve

Something like this may save the paint on your pretty wheels. Those 60+ lbs weights are hard to wrestle by hand

Rubber tire straps/chains installed on 416. New seat coming tomorrow.

I like that idea but I'm thinking I'm going to hit a lot of nails holding the exterior trim to the window frame. There are twenty windows. The size is about 34" wide and five feet tall. I may end up cutting them on my shop saw that has a much bigger table. In worse case scenario, I'll re-attach them like they have been for all these years. I suppose I could run a bead of caulk across the top of the windows, that way the next person could cut the caulk with a utility knife before removing the window. I had four window sills that needed attention, possibly in part due to the storm windows allowing water behind them. Personally, I like the looks of the windows without the storm windows but the added protection from weather and for weatherization they are necessary. The church doesn't have money to replace the windows or even the storm windows and there is something about old wavy glass windows--kind of like patina on a Wheelhorse. Below is the front of the church with new deck. The tall posts are for the new porch that we are going to build. This is likely the last hurrah for this old building. The small community is dwindling. The 2x4 oak rafters on the building have bellied some 6 to 8". (I can't believe the roofing supplier loaded all of the shingles on that one valley.) The rim joists are about shot (we replaced the one across the front of the building and around back a piece of metal was nailed over a hole where the rim joist was missing). I replaced a fair amount of the clapboard siding, made window drip cap for the windows that needed it. My goal is to keep a much water out that I can. One neighbor lady came up and donated $2,000 because she appreciated saving the building. Concrete apron will be poured at the end of the ramp and a sidewalk where the steps will be in front of the doors. An interesting note: The foundation is poured concrete. There are no footers. When we dug for posts next to the building, we never found a footer. We dug our holes for the posts deeper than the foundation was buried in the ground.

I stand corrected, this 81 year old just got schooled by a teenager.

That I believe was actually an option, I've seen something similar in the HL-5 Headlight manual jumble on here, I'll post a link in a minute Here's the link I believe

A Chinaman goes to see the eye doctor... After the exam the doctor said, "I know why you're having trouble." The Chinaman says, "why?" Doctor said, "you have a cataract." Chinaman says, "no, I have a Rincoln Continental."

Prototype Tesla

Today I brought Mrs. 953 home from the hospital. Both of us got the flue shots but the flue my wife came down with didn't seem to be the one the shot covered. It was an intestinal virus that hit her like a ton of bricks. She had been visiting a friend at the hospital several times so my guess is that is where she got it. The first symptom was her throwing up right after lunch, I told her if she didn't like my cooking she could just tell me!

I'm thinking the more teeth the better.

Finally got around to taking a few pictures of this little beauty that I picked up from @Dan 312-8 back in June.

Good morning, I am hoping someone can help me because tractor repair is not my area of expertise but I can research, read and follow directions. I bought this tractor about a year ago and it does not achieve full speed, full throttle-high gear speed is the same as low gear, but it flies in reverse. It has 500 hours and I changed the oil and filter, I didn’t clean the power steering filter because all of the posts that I’ve found, this is never the solution. We disconnected the smart steer in the spring using a method found on this site but that didn’t help; it only prevented it from slowing down more while turning and that’s a good thing. Today my husband is going to help me check all the pivots and linkages but like I said, I can research and read and think the problem lies in the neutral adjustment. I was just looking at the 5XI SERIES TRACTOR HYDRAULIC SYSTEMS SERVICE MANUAL and saw a note about the pivot point and went to look at mine, the machine is not running and the pivot point look like it is facing the wrong direction. My questions are, am I correct that when you don’t have any pressure on the accelerator the pivot should be facing the other way? Can I change this while the tractor isn’t running? I realize that we should do it while it’s running to avoid creep but I took it apart so that I could clearly see everything. I am trying to avoid guessing and making it worse, that’s why I came here. Finally, since it’s apart, is there anything else that we should inspect? Thank you in advance for helping a novice.

The slot shows wear on the middle left side above the eccentric. Make sure the edges of this wear area are smooth, use a file and emery cloth to remove any metal burrs. While this is probable not you mane problem, it can contribute to rough movement.

I’ll offer some basic orientation that might, I hope, help you with diagnostics. 😁 The blue arrow points to the base of the input control arm on the hydro. It rotates when movement of the plate (yellow arrow) applies force against the eccentric (red arrow). The plate’s movement comes via a linkage to the forward/reverse motion control lever you operate by hand. The hydro pump/motor is internally symmetric making it capable of the same output speed in either direction. Moving the hydro’s input arm in one direction yields forward and the other way yields reverse. HOWEVER, those clever WH engineers shaped the slot in the plate so that (when correctly adjusted) it pushes the eccentric further in the forward direction that the reverse direction--hence the normal difference between full forward and full reverse. (Other parts of the linkage are also involved.) There are several possible reasons for having insufficient arm rotation in your “forward” direction. ONE of the reasons is addressed in Step 6, above. Over time, the sides of the slot in the plate and the sides of the eccentric can wear down through normal use leaving the eccentric “loose” in the slot. Step 6 in the manual is showing how to rotate the eccentric where it is attached to the input arm to where it is slightly narrower than the slot in the plate (to permit free movement with minimal slack) and where the end of the input arm (i.e. the bolt) is positioned in the middle of the slot. Further, it wants the “notch” in the eccentric to be pointed away from the input arm’s base at the hydro--yours is toward. Some subtle geometry dictates this. So your first step (with the engine off) is to hold the hex part of the eccentric with one wrench while loosening the bolt that holds it with a second wrench (or socket). Carefully rotate the eccentric 180º from pointing ESE (east southeast in the picture) so that it points WNW (west northwest). Retighten the holding bolt while again holding the eccentric. This might have some effect on the forward speed, but likely not a lot! Other adjustments to the linkage are likely needed to make sure that when the manual motion control lever is firmly in neutral the input arm to the hydro is centered (i.e. the tractor isn’t creeping forward or backward) and that the full range of motion control input is being transmitted to get proper rotation of the input arm. Here, though, we reach the limit of my expertise as I’ve not worked on this model. I will note that the Eaton manual for the 1100 has pretty clear instructions for adjusting the linkages so I would continue there first and, of course, come back here with questions (and pictures!)

Definitely has $500 worth of parts assuming the Onan is blown. hub caps $200 42"RD deck $150 Eaton 1100 $200 front axle $200 seat $40

2 5/8 od 2 1/2 id

Good Idea, Keeping the plow point shinny would look very realistic. If they've been used they're either shinny or rusty. Such a cool idea! Dave

Ok I appreciate it @adsm08 , I knew it needed to be poking out some because of removal, but thought that was kind of far since it was hitting when turning one direction.

702854boy posted link to manual with factory info below

It needs to stick out some,because the hole is not blind so it has to be pulled out, but it should not hit the gear cover IIRC. I had issues with mine only working in one direction that drove me nuts for a while, and that was the problem.

as long as you keep the plow share greased you’re fine!

To me that looks like someone flipped the hood ornament around and set the aftermarket light through the large end of the ornament. Neat look!

I would use the 7-1/4" blade and just take your time because they are less expensive. Rim speed of 7-1/4" blade is about 28% slower than 10".

Will guess the shaft diameter is 7/8". Got a Princess Auto nearby? They have sheaves that bolt to a tapered hub sized to the shaft. They often are made to use both 1/2" and 5/8" wide belts so the effective diameter is different. The sheaves use an industrial way of measurement so best to measure where the correct belt rides in the groove and match up the diameter. The sheaves are secured to the hub with bolts and the same bolts are removed from their holes and entered into others to push the sheave back off .https://www.princessauto.com/en/product/single-groove-solid-cast-iron-sheaves/PA1000001359 https://www.princessauto.com/en/product/split-tapered-bushings/PA1000001199 They also have a series of stamped steel pulleys that require they be welded to a hub sized to the shaft. https://www.princessauto.com/en/product/weld-on-pulleys/PA1000001341 https://www.princessauto.com/en/product/x-series-weld-on-hubs/PA1000001386

It should bolt right up, governor linkage & all.

I told my son I was going to buy him a book on procrastination, but I keep putting it off.

Why not switch it with a Carter Model N??

Recent plow day posts got me thinking, maybe it's time for a single bottom plow... I defer to @Achto, @Pullstart and @WHX?? for technical critique, however please note the plow and coulter wheel are fully adjustable... Brinly model provided for context...

Says its private can't see it

Had a chance this morning to get back to this rig. Trans is out! Fuel line is old and showing cracks in the rubber so that’s also going to be replaced. Drive belt is new so that’s staying. The brake band was a new one from Bob @rmaynard and it’s still like new 6 or 7 years later Amazingly the tow hitch came right out!

Quickie paint job…wiped the garage dust off these 65 pounders and gave em one coat of glossy black. Hopefully mounting em later this afternoon on the C-145 Auto.

If you can not sleep at night, it is usually because you are awake. I hope this helps. If I am sent to jail my wife will get me out. She never lets me finish a sentence. Doing nothing is extremely difficult, you never know when you are done. A dentist will say “You are brushing wrong.” A nutritionist will say “You are eating wrong.” Parents will say “You are living wrong.” Your bartender will say “Excellent choice sir.” There is a new movie out about a snowman who became a vampire. It is called “Frost bite”. My son asked “Why do birds fly?” I replied “Because it is faster than walking…” used to think I was indecisive but now I am not so sure.. My vacuum cleaner broke, now it just sits there collecting dust. I attempted to organize a game of “hide and seek” but good players are hard to find. You can never trust stairs because they are always up to something. I told my wife “For the past 50 years all you have done is found mistakes in every thing I say.” She replied “That is 55 years dear.”

I'll sell you my RJ-58 for $2499 with an original gas tank! That's ridiculous expecting that kind of money but at least they didn't cut the hood

When you buy the seal kit get extra pulley shaft seals. They are hard to install and easy to damage.

Gear oil smell wafting into the house! WHO'S WITH ME!!!!

In full disclosure, I took these pictures the other day to post in this thread. I had the 418-8 and 70’s vintage Cyclone spreader out to spread some lime. Last year before putting it away and giving it its usual cleaning, I put tire shine on the tires. Then I started to think? I wonder if anyone else is wacky enough to do that? 🤣🤣🤣🤣

Another shot of 701 but I was feeling pretty patriotic after making a new front axle pivot pin and making bushings for the wore drag link. Using my homegrown flag bracket and the bestest flag in the world. A special thanks to my shop fan for helping with the shot.

#41 off the assembly line

Now this is definitely a “side shot”!! I posted this elsewhere on the forum but just realized how perfect it is for this topic