Leaderboard

Last year I purchased this Simplicity 5212 for $40. Someone swapped in a 18HP Briggs. Came with 4 different mower decks and only the 36” was in good shape to actually use. The others were either rotted, seized or both. Would only run half choked and battery wouldn’t charge. I replaced the chinesium carb with and oem carb and it ran perfect. Then swapped out the regulator and the charging system came back around. Then I found out Allis owned and sold Simplicity in 83. This tractor is an 87 but I decided I wanted to make a replica.

Steve nailed it. Coil gets hot and opens up ... cools down and restarts. Common issue with that coil tucked down in the heat. Check the coil for cracked plastic a dead giveaway. Having five Onans I got tired of it and remounted the coil in open air.

@Achto and I have a buddy who does Simplecities/Allis. Tried to turn him from the dark side many times but no luck so we just tell everybody at shows we don't know him. Actually does have some nice vintage B's tho.

It's about the New Holland and XI series WH

My blade has a steel rod/wire that angles the blade. I do not think it has a cable. I have not used it in a few years but I do not remember a cable. I will look tomorrow.

I like the idea!

Anything for sale here would be in the classified sections.

I would appreciate it if you don't show those welds anymore. ...Reminds me just how much my welds look like ostrich crap.

@JoeM it’s always refreshing to see clean beads!

Or the " extending contracts of coaches" Speaking of State parks. I am fortunate enough to live within 15 miles of 4 beautiful state parks in the Finger Lakes where I can walk my dog. The upkeep on all this land must be tremendous. 1 park has a golf course. Another park has a acres of fall hunting area 2 parks have large camping area's and there are also 2 large marina's. I can have free access weekdays during camping season and unlimited access the rest of the year. I gladly pay my share.

When I had that pin stuck, Installed vise grips on the end sticking out and turn it and use the edge of the plow frame as a fulcrum. I have also removed the wire and used a drift punch in the wire hole doing the same.

Honestly have to say I’ve never seen one of those before! I didn’t have a response earlier when Eric mentioned me because I’d never seen one like that. @WHX?? I have seen something like this that was called a Litter Whisk, is that the same thing?

I don’t have any pictures @ebinmaine but I can certainly take some! Maybe over the weekend text me to remind me.

Thank you! Allis had their 616 hydro tractor which was the same chassis and body as this 5212. The decals are repops for the 616 so the project came around almost perfect lol.

I was in to HO scale trains when I was a teenager in the 80's, then dropped out of the hobby for all of my 20's, then got in to G scale trains about 25 years ago. Here's my most recent project: More detail here if you're interested: https://sites.google.com/site/scotlawrence/ Scot

I'll go the other way on that KP ... gives me something to aspire to.

Reminder to keep politics out (I see it coming) 🫤

The replacement coils are shaped differently, some require a hole to be drilled and tapped and special mount. The stalling you have sounds exactly like an ignition module failing, usually from heat and is more prevalent in summer but can happen any time. When you have a shutdown, immediately check for spark. The original ignition modules are hard to find and very expensive, there are aftermarket kits that contain the module, coil, condenser and mounting hardware on the Bay for as little as $83. I have seen good reviews for the cheap kits. That plug on top of the plow frame is an electrical knockout plug.

@CD Long Jr https://www.google.com/search?q=hitch+pin+clips&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&oq=hitch+pin+clips+&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyCggAEEUYFhgeGDkyBwgBEAAY the end of plow frame swing levers , like a hitch pin clip , pushed thru to last big hole ? once there , they will not fall out or get lost . plow swing area is called STEERING QUADRANT , the steel rod that is saposed to pull on that related compression spring , is attached to your squeeze lever , every stage of that , requires , a snug / lubricated fit , to relay your intent to the , quadrant slide pin , inside the swing arc area , note your lube on the pop off inspection area , you want to pop off that cover to show you how that works , penetrating oil , then red aerosol spray grease , extension tube , to pin point spring / slide pin , also the plow frame swing hole frame angular mounting , https://www.google.com/search?q=hitch+pin+clips&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS866US866&oq=hitch+pin+clips+&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyCggAEEUYFhgeGDkyBwgBEAAYgAQyBwgCEAAYgAQyCAgDEAAYFhgeMggIBBAAGBYYHjIICAUQABgWGB4yCAgGEAAYFhgeMggIBxAAGBYYHjIICAgQABgWGB4yCAgJEAAYFhge0gEIOTE1OWowajSoAgGwAgHxBUFJFm6aUYwJ8QVBSRZumlGMCQ&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#sv=CAYS6QESABosMmFoVUtFd2lFazRIQXBjT1NBeFVjRUZrRkhYUTVFVHdRZ2kxNkJBZ2RFQlEihQEKFDExNDcxMTYwMTYzNDQ1ODAyMzc0EhM1MDUyMDc3NzgwODk4NTQ4NDgxGgAiFDExNTU1MDQ4NzIzNzc3MzAzOTc5KgAyFDE1NDg1MzE1ODcxOTUwMTA0MjkxOgBKAmhnUgBiAGoAigEAoAEDsAEAwgEAygEA2gEA4gEA8AEA-gEAkgIAMABCLTJhaFVLRXdpRWs0SEFwY09TQXhVY0VGa0ZIWFE1RVR3UXJvZ0dlZ1FJSFJBTiCK_aW_DTACSgoIARACGAEgASgB, this detailing , transforms plow set ups , glad you are on it , pete

That discription sounds like a bad coil. I had one on my 857 that did exactly that. It's like the coil heats up, doesn't work and needs to cool off to start again.

I know i bought some better heim joints also. those factory one are not real smooth. I fixed a couple cam plates and eccentrics on xi machines. to remove/repair the plate the hydro rear needs to be out of the machine. A good time to look and touch up a bit. I hit the eccentric with a dab of weld too.

That will be nice. The cam plates hold up better than the eccentrics do. Many of the ones I see have a groove worn in them. Just 1/16 is actually noticeable at the end of the travel on the hydro.

If it sits for a while to give the oil/water time to separate and you remove the drain plug from the left rear of the transmission bottom water will come out first if there is any. Lift the front of the tractor so the oil ahead of the hump in the transmission also gets drained.

@Wheel Horse 3D and I are looking at figuring out how to use his talents and tools to make a stretched frame in 1/25 scale. This is an internet find picture: This is my project truck: The frame(s) are approximately 11 inches long. I'd like to add 10 inches about where the pointer is. Cut paste. ✂️ Total frame length around 21", 22". This weekend I spent a few hours cutting clipping sanding fitting etc.. to get this trailer suspension mostly done. I'm at the point of needing to paint everything that's glued together a flat black. Then add more parts. I also got the 3 sections of the tank cemented individually. These are not attached to each other yet. It'll take some creative use of scrap sheet styrene between the right and middle sections. They aren't meant to be attached.

So update on the tractor. I did a thing today that was pretty dumb. I’ve never had a bearing fight me so bad. I took the PTO off to clean it up. Front bearing didn’t sound good so I removed it. I figured out why it never disengaged. The needle bearings were basically glued in place from the old grease and wouldn’t spin so it just stuck to the crank and spun. So I decided to remove it to try and thoroughly clean it. The stupidity hit when removing the needle bearing. Or more or less destroying it. The thing didn’t budge, destroyed the cage and the race is still stuck in the hub. Needless to say it was a rough day.