Leaderboard

Might have went through a couple tanks of gas trying to take in the Portland Tri-State show. More pictures in a separate post.

Again I mowed the Fire Stationwith the 312, ran it out of gas 3/4 of the way through. Then had to walk back to get my ATV and a gas can. It's just far enough away to not want to drag a significantly full gas can that far. I finished up the Fire Station, and took my tractor home, then got the ATV, and saw a co worker who saw me go there with the tractor but not back Then he got the short version of events.

Finally finished Miss Daisy. Parts came under the cover of darkness. New key switch, fuel lines, fuel shutoff and grommet, used ammeter, changed the fluids 3 used tires and the patina treatment. Runs flawless. Didn't have to touch the carb at all, Belt rattles at low engine speed. Thinking of a new belt even though the old one looks ok and an idler pulley. On to the deck to see if I can salvage it and sell it as a unit.

Or NAPA 257315

3/8" X 32" Cogged Rubber Edge Gates 7315

Smoke em if you got em.

Farm or no farm Mike that is a keeper. I have had a few 4 and 8 speeds. Liked every one.

A little off topic, but I started this thread anyway

The wiring is almost done

Tomorrow, I'll see if I can get some pictures that show the massive scale of the event. Garden tractors are only a small segment. Acres and acres of swap meet vendors, antique tractors, hit and miss engines, food vendors, consignment barn...

For those that have not seen one, I hadn't until I acquired a couple '73 Autos. This dash is not in great shape but you can see that "start" returns to "run" without power to the PTO. Counter-clockwise one step powers accessories which in my case would be lights and PTO (clutch).

Figure out how you can measure 12 volts DC (Direct Current). Your meter may show 100VDC which just means it will measure up to 100 volts. Ground the negative wire to a good chassis ground or battery negative. Now with the red test lead follow the power from the battery to the solenoid checking for battery voltage into each switch and out of each switch. There are notes in the schematic showing the state of the switches - operator in seat, pto off as examples. You are testing the start circuit so you may need a helping hand to hold the ignition switch in the start position. Notice the start relay gets it's power directly from battery + on a purple wire. The rest of the circuit controls what the start relay does. Wired like this so the start relay gets maximum power via a short cut without going through all the safety switches. Keep us posted on what you find and help will walk you through it.

Thank you. I'm dumber than a bag of rocks when it comes to electrical/electronics. I don't really understand the schematic, all I can understand is that the wire to the starter solenoid is the one that has no power. How to test it, I have no clue. Where to start to test it, I have no clue. How to use a multimeter, I have no clue, but I do actually have a couple of them.