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Started this 3 bottom plow for the Big Dog.

Wait till he works on his first truck

Yesterday @Sparky responded to a threads as follows, Nothing free about the internet…if you have it and plan to use it you must be willing to give up xx hours a day of your time aimlessly scrolling thru information and videos that you have no need for Biggest time gobbler ever!!! He must have had a premonition about this thread.

Just ain't right! @Shynon approved

This girl came to me at plow day couple years ago. I pushed snow with it a couple times but then just didn't get used so it was time to go to a new home. On to FBMP it went and even advertised it here with no bites. A fine running H60 Techy and was in prime shape for the next owner. I went through it completely. The Big Unit new to list and then some. Needed absolutely nothing. Finally sold it to a 14 year old kid just down the road who wanted to do "commercial" snow plowing with it. After heavily advising him this was more of a collector model and there are better tractors suited to the task added to the fact that a old techy isn't exactly the motor for a budding mechanic but he said he had a gramps who was handy. He was set on it and finally let him have it with the understanding I would take it back if things didn't work out. Well last week got a text from the kid saying he wants to sell it back. I says ok lemme come look at it. During the time he had it I was contacted by him several times with questions on it including how to reassemble the the governor, carb & head & all kinds of other stuff. Keep in mind it needed nothing. Well it came home to roost for a lot less money since he messed it all up including missing parts, a fried brand new battery and digital volt meter.\ just to mention a few. Lesson learned never sell a vintage round hood to someone who doesn't have a clue regardless of age. Yes I know buyer's tractor they can do what they want but a fine vintage round hood??? Not on my watch. From here on out all tractors that are worth a hoot the buyer gets interviewed. Note the tie wraps holding every thing all together.

I have no idea, but they look like good weights for backside of the rims if they fit over the hubs.

Always a good time when you have to go through the same tractor twice. If you need some original hardware I have a coffee can full left over from the 701, 633, & 401.

Now for the what I had to do list... Different carb ... he didn't know righty tighty lefty loosey and stripped out the the bowl threads. I put a brand new offshore when sold on it and it ran perfect. No idea why he had to mess with it. New head gasket ... it ripped when he took it apart so it went back together without one and never torqued the head bolts of course. New charging diodes ... whatever was done blew out most electrical. New oil ... The crank case was way over filled. Luckily it didn't take out the rings. Lots of fasteners & hardware. Plow that went with it was disassembled & all hardware missing. New fuel line ... the filter & all new fuel line I had put on was replaced with you don't wanna know stuff. The worst part about the whole affair is when after I sold it I found out his dad was a bum so I offered to take him under my wing and offered to have him come work for me in the shop. Learn him a few things and pay him to be a gasket scraper & parts cleaner. He declined citing his campground job and schooling. His reason for wanting to sell you ask? Getting to the age girls and trucks caught his eye ... figured that was gonna happen. Been there done that haven't we! The saving grace about the whole affair was when I told him he might get more than I was willing to pay he puts it on FB. Maybe even what he paid me for it. His exact words " I would rather see someone who knows it get it" Now I have a seldom broke rule it don't run it's a $100 tractor and I told him that. After hearing that I upped my offer a little.

Hoping this roll on bed liner dulls out a little bit when it cures. Otherwise, I may have to dump a couple loads of stone with it.

August 7, 1955 Tokyo Telecommunications Engineering, the precursor to Sony, begins selling its first transistor radios in Japan.

I piddled with it a little bit this afternoon, I had acetone, charcoal lighter fluid, goof off, and actual paint stripper, the heavy gel kind, goof off and lighter fluid just barely cleaned the dirt off, acetone turned the rag a little bit pink, the stripper worked, but kinda touchy easy to go too far. I think a mix of acetone thinned stripper and maybe a fine pad or steel wool would be the answer, but it would require some time and detailed attention to it, and then it's still an old crusted crunchy faded out sticker, and then seeing you guys pictures using new stickers on some old paint doesn't look bad at all. I think l'll plan on new decals for the hood

I’ve got some work to do… but it’ll take off soon!

@rustyedge1 bet ya dollars to donuts , its lubrication failure related , from that pto cone inner needle bearing , to every related belt / pulley set up , pulleys are probably rough , noisy , COMBINED INCREMENTAL LUBRICATION FAILURE , CREATES BELT BOUNCE / WHINE, STOPAGE , would also not be surprised if the pto lever start area is also hanging up , increasing initial function drag . what does it sound like ? buzzing , vibratition , you need more than belts , pete

Someone has WAY too much time on their hands!

Band-Aid Alert!!! I see a single edge razor blade in its natural habitat, lying-in-wait on the table, ready to pounce on the unsuspecting Kevin...

Exactly what part of the carburetor have you identified as worn or broken?

The general concensus here is that if the OE part is at all rebuildable, you are better off to go that route instead of the "it may work or not" offshore knockoff option...

I got no worries with you I don't think you handle a grinder like some others we know! Deal ... but as @19richie66 would say ... put the grinder down and slowly step away.. Someone is gonna get this tractor for dang near the four letter word but gonna have to pass a interview ... and sign extensive documents drawn up in lawyer language. @Achto has got a lathe we'll make some some day. All back and operating as should and on the splash pad ... some belt stopping issues yet and jumps out of third gear occasionally but like that when I sold it. I'll get right on that. Still needs a new voltmeter. I put a digital one on as I found out Techies like to over charge a battery . I know not original but with one the charge can be controlled by running the bug eyes to keep the voltage below battery cook limits or removing a diode.

According to AI they are The S6W cast-iron part number typically designates vintage rear wheel weights made for Simplicity and Allis-Chalmers garden tractors (often stamped as S6W-C1 or similar foundry markings), usually weighing around 25 to 35 pounds per side depending on the specific model year and rim size.

That's a lot of words used instead of "I ripped off the kid down the street by doing some horse trading!" It's a good thing you got it back, he learned a valuable lesson plus he even wanted it to go to the right person

For a $90 investment, some elbow grease and some paint, that turned out excellent 👍

I’ll haul Sylvia’s e-tub out to you and haul that one home. Easy deal.

“Hambone”

A-to-Z has nice reproduction knurled knobs. Have two on the gas tank of the 854 but when I added the attach-a-matic on the front I needed something longer--plastic tri-leaf style from McMaster.

Thanks I got cans here too... @Shynon preached always save your old hardware. Kicker is I don't have any of the knurled hood knobs... originals gone forever True My thought as well ... thankfully old gramps told him not to run it with over filled oil.

Some of those are quite specialized... The 4 that fasten the fuel tank to the hoodstand, the 2 that mount the carb to the block, and the 1 short round head that fastens the belt guard to the engine... all come to mind. You are lucky he did not get midway into building a "busted budget" mud bogger or cobbled up puller out of it.

I don't know if I would pass the test though

WFRB in Frostburg, Md. for this '50s teenager.

@Pullstart school of logistics.

It’s my first plane I’ve ever constructed and it’s year 2026. I just figured a pig that flys has got to be fast, and it needs race numbers.

Got my first transistor radio in the early sixties. It was a promotional item from a Sinclair gas station. It was green and had a Dino the dinosaur logo on it. Tuned it to WLS 890 out of Chicago and never looked back.

First mow this year with my 520-8 with a 42”SD. Put down some nice stripes! Shameless plug: it’s listed on FB Marketplace

Hitch bar updated and seat cover arrived - I'm calling this one ready for use.

I will be sending you a new serial number decal on Monday Nice cart!

FYI, the belt should be on the larger PTO pulley for mowing.

The 1988 and 1989 520 H came with 7" wide wheels and 23 x 950 x 12 tires. Stright front axle with 3/4" spindles 16 x 650 x 8 tires.

TSC Aramid blue belts are my go to.

Vividly remember the empowerment of having my own radio the size of a pack of cigarettes with a wired earphone. Its 9v battery would last for a couple of weeks. Early 60’s. WBRE Wilkes-Barre was the clearest station.

I got my first transistor pocket radio when i was about eight... local AM stations only, not much volume. But, it was portable...

The Pullstart will see your loading techniques ... and raise you ...

It’s actually twin prop airplane! https://www.flitefest.com

My paint scheme plans…. Mmmm I love pig!

Is his curly tail the propulsion system?

Is the black wire coming to the amp meter also getting hot? If not the green wire itself could be making some contact with ground or have a very bad connection, inspect it closely. The green wire comes directly from your battery via the amp meter. If the AMP Meter was the problem the black wire would be getting hot, not the green one so we will move on. The key switch is a strong possibility but lets test it before spending the money. Fore this test we will have four key positions, (1) OFF, (2) RUN with lights and PTO, (3) Run only and (4) Start. Please disconnect the battery "-" negative (ground) wire to prevent any accidental sparks or shorts during testing. Now disconnect the GREEN wire from the ignition switch and connect a 12 volt test light or DC volt meter between the terminal where the green wire had been and the green wire itself, and touch the battery ground cable you removed before and see what key positions the light or meter responds to. With the key switch in the OFF position there should be no connection to anything and the light or meter should not respond. Try to tap on the switch while it is in the off position to see if something internal shorting out. Next, remove the battery ground wire again and remove the wire to the ignition coil wire (I) and the regulator wire (R) from the ignition switch and turn the switch to the third position (RUN ONLY) and then touch the ground wire to the battery ground side again. There should be no action from the meter or test light presuming this is the factory correct switch and no one has messed with the wiring. Let us know what you come up with.

Mowed lawn before the rain that we are supposedly, supposed to get. Only got a few sprinkles today.

@Retired Wrencher the handle says it all. a wrencher that's retired knows what to buy after all them years wrenching .

I do also