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Had today off so hit a tractor museum in Perth Australia, about an hour north of where I’m at. Almost all farm tractors but they did have one that was “WH size” called Howard. Had my Lawn/Garden tractor mag with me, perfect for a picture! And yes, I wore one of my WHCC shirts

September 12, 1972 , After nearly 40 years of riding across millions of American TV and movie screens, the cowboy actor William Boyd, best known for his role as Hopalong Cassidy, dies at the age of 77. Boyd’s greatest achievement was to be the first cowboy actor to make the transition from movies to television.

His USA cousin.

Scored a set of 25lb. IH wheel weights at a garage sale. While looking at them the lady asked if she was asking too much and seemed willing to reduce the price. But they were already cheap. I knew she was a recent widow with teenagers so I paid her price and bought some other stuff I really didn’t need. The weights were an ugly shade of red over some yellow paint. Using a wire bush on an angle grinder most of the paint came off. But the magic smoke started pouring out of my good Makita grinder.🤬🤬 Have had it for about 25 years. Painted the weights orange and will install them on the Roper with the front boom. Gonna miss that Makita.🥺

that’s a sweet paint job, on Grandpa’s old tractor!

This picture taken at "interveiw"

Added a receiver hitch to the rear of my RJ-59 to attach a garbage can hauler. I have a very steep driveway and at 66 it is difficult to get the heavy trash cans to the curb. Worked better than expected and I still get joy out of driving my grandfather's tractor he purchased new. BTW this is how I learned to drive!

Edy had a cabinet in the garage that she wanted gone. I didn’t need to use the Roper to move it but I wanted to.😁😁😁 I transported it to the workshop and installed it in a corner of my office.

This is why I now interview guys that wanna buy my horses. To make sure they get taken care of. Gives meaning to going to a good home.

I've done one too. EXCELLENT upgrade. The side angle control is far superior to OE.

Made another set of tie rods and mounted them on th ol 1257 (Vince). With the thrust bearings under the spindles, new tie rods and the larger steering wheel its like having power steering .

Is this sort of what you had in mind?

More pics

By the controls on the hood it's a 60 400

Here is a thread that will tell you everything you ever wanted to know about your 3 piece transmission.

Thank you @953 nut!! I really appreciate the guidance!

Told you. Congrats!

Similar happened to me last fall with my 25ish year old Craftsman corded reciprocating saw. I was working it hard trimming branches early last Fall when it had a "Thermal Event". Just stay up wind from that Electro-toast smell! I already own a couple of Dewalt 20 Volt items, so I caught a Black Friday sale & purchased the cordless model. Works great, but sucks thru batteries! About 4 in an hour..... My son has the cordless angle grinder - says it works great.

How does the question I am asking run counter to the purpose of the governor if as the service manual says, the max RPM is 3600, the engine is running way below that, and the service manual gives instructions on how to raise the RPM by adjusting the high speed adjusting screw? It says: The primary purpose of the governor on a Kohler air-cooled engine is to maintain a constant engine speed (RPM) under varying workloads. Therefore, if the governor is not maintaining a high enough engine speed, it needs to be adjusted higher. And the RPM can be adjusted higher or lower which is the purpose of the high speed adjusting screw. Thanks!

How do I get higher RPMs governor Wheel Horse 414–8 Magnum Kohler 14 The question you are asking runs counter to the purpose of the governor. The attached manual has a step by step adjustment process. Try moving the rod that is presently in the sixth hole to the third hole and see if it becomes more responsive. To adjust the mechanical governor on a Kohler engine follow these steps. Turn off the engine: Ensure the engine is completely off and cool before working on the linkage. Set throttle to wide open: Move your equipment's speed control lever to the fast or high-speed position so the carburetor throttle butterfly is pushed completely open. the governor arm nut: Find the bolt or nut that clamps the governor arm to the metal cross shaft coming out of the engine block. Loosen it just enough so the arm can rotate freely on the shaft. Rotate the governor shaft: Hold the carburetor throttle wide open, then rotate the governor cross shaft as far as it will go in the direction that pulls the throttle open until it bottoms out and stops. Tighten the clamp nut: While holding the carburetor wide open and the governor shaft fully rotated to its stop position, securely tighten the clamping nut or bolt on the governor arm. Torque it down properly (typically around 60 inch-pounds if using a torque wrench) With this understanding, here’s how to check the governor. Manually move the governor arm/throttle lever back and forth between the stops. Observe the amount of movement and the tension on the governor spring. Detach the spring from the governor arm. Position the governor arm/throttle in the middle and start the engine. Gradually adjust the governor arm to slow down and speed up the engine. As the engine speed rises, you should notice an increase in tension on the governor arm, and as the engine speed drops, the tension should decrease. If there is no tension at all, the governor is likely faulty, and the engine will need to be disassembled for inspection. The primary purpose of the governor on a Kohler air-cooled engine is to maintain a constant engine speed (RPM) under varying workloads. It is not to speed the engine up; the governor's role is to attempt to slow the engine down. The faster the engine runs, the more pressure is exerted on the governor shaft (in the engine) and arm. The point at which the force from the governor (trying to slow the engine) matches the force from the governor spring (trying to speed the engine up) and maintains a steady engine speed is referred to as the governed speed. When you use equipment like a lawnmower, tractor, or generator, the engine encounters different levels of resistance (such as hitting tall grass or drawing an electrical load). The governor automatically adjusts the throttle to keep the engine running at its optimal speed, preventing it from stalling or over-speeding. When the governor detects Load Changes its RPM naturally starts to drop. The governor senses this drop in speed and automatically opens the throttle valve to let in more fuel and air, restoring the engine to its target speed. Conversely, if the load is suddenly removed, the engine speed will rapidly increase. The governor responds by closing the throttle to prevent catastrophic internal engine damage from over-revving. Kohler’s mechanical (Centrifugal) Governor: Uses internal flyweights attached to a gear inside the engine. As the engine spins, centrifugal force moves the weights, which act on a shaft and linkage connected to the carburetor throttle. When the engine is off, the governor spring keeps the throttle in the wide-open position. Upon starting the engine, the governor, which consists of a centrifugal weight inside the engine, begins to spin. Centrifugal force pushes a weight outward, applying pressure on the governor shaft and causing it to turn. The governor arm, connected to the governor shaft outside the engine, also moves. With this understanding, here’s how to check the governor. Manually move the governor arm/throttle lever back and forth between the stops. Observe the amount of movement and the tension on the governor spring. Detach the spring from the governor arm. Position the governor arm/throttle in the middle and start the engine. Gradually adjust the governor arm to slow down and speed up the engine. As the engine speed rises, you should notice an increase in tension on the governor arm, and as the engine speed drops, the tension should decrease. If there is no tension at all, the governor is likely faulty, and the engine will need to be disassembled for inspection.

@ri702bill noticing a missed ENHANCEMENT DETAIL ? in your great plow frame pictures , see it ? add a medium pull extension spring from , frame HITCH PIN CLIP TO pto swing arm LOCKING PIN , CORNER HOLE ? that lubricated smooth tension ELIMINATES LINKAGE BUZZING , regularly go over any change , to ENHANCE THAT , this idea zone is what drives me to other opportunities , like spring pull to close / stop , throttle / choke cable linkage ? verified total lubrication makes it smooth with a light pull assist to any stage . dare to experiment , pete

Finally got around to getting pictures of the A Liner camper 'remodel '. Here is where we ended up: Here is where we started: The addition is a crate for our dog's sleeping quarters. The refrigerator, sink and associated plumbing is gone. The refrigerator will be installed in our small Coleman travel trailer, and the sink will become an outdoor camp sink on our property in Ky. Took a cross state jaunt yesterday to pick up a few parts for EJ, the 8n from Steiner Tractor Parts. Got a couple of odds and ends for a couple of neighbor's tractors - a Massey Harris 40 and a Ferguson TO-35.

Also, be sure the throttle cable clamp is keeping the cable jacket secured.

Make sure the governor arm is not loose on the shaft you should adjust the governor per the manual.

Killing time to go to the last tractor show so finished up a Onan I got from @Blasterdad at Pullstart's plow day. Should have left the heat shield off 'till after retorque heads run. I have high hopes for this being a decent shelf motor for the 520s. Hope you like the color changes. Just something different.

Have used heim joints for decades. Have some of various sizes in a drawer. Running low on them so I use them judiciously. Also have various types and sizes of the rod ends. Quick disconnect and regular. Have used the quick disconnect many times and not had a problem. They do make it easy to reset toe in, especially if one end of tie rod is not adjustable. Plus they were free. Former place of employment scrapped them as overstock since no one was buying replacements. The mechanically minded employees snatched them right up. If they lasted forever on a lift truck , they will do well on a garden tractor.

Run it for a few minutes with it bogging and then shut it down and feel around for the heat. It almost has to be in the mule drive or deck bearings unless it's a belt dragging on something. There's gonna be heat somewhere IMO.

Type A, Type F, and the generic Dex/Merc are all pretty interchangeable these days.

Going through the 520xi I just purchased as leaf vacuuming season will be here shortly. Besides new air filter, greasing, changing tranny and engine oil and filters, the mower didn’t have a battery hold down bracket so I made one of those. One of the lift rods was broken and the PO had it tied up with rope so I fabricated one of those also, as the $80 price I saw for a OEM one was totally ridiculous. Went with synthetic transmission fluid and with the little I drove it, it seemed to drive better. Forgot I bought new plugs so I still need to replace them. Have bearings for poor man’s power steering but that will be a separate project. The battery on my AC916H that I sold that I have been nursing along for a few years of course died the day the buyer came to get it so it got the 520xi battery and the 520xi got a new one.

Saw this at a show. Owner called it a battery quick disconnect

Finished up on the C160 front end today replaced tie rods with some l had made a while back. Also added thrust bearings on the spindles. Good thing I had the homegrown tie rods ready, one of the old ones fell apart when I took it off . Steers way easier than before even with the wider wheels and 5 rib V61 tires.

Show hasn't happened yet, how can i post pics? lol

Added some liquid ballast and installed some new front wheel bearings on “Vince” the 1257. Installed some thrust bearings on front spindles also. Did improve ease of steering.

I will give you this @WHX?? famous quote "good enough for the girls we go out with"

Sold the Workhorse today! Guy I purchased it from bought it back. Looks like everything gonna work out, especially for me. I got the 416 now to replace it.

Ended up buying the 520xi I looked at a few weeks ago after doing a little more research on hydrostat whine. Ordered filters and will do fluid and greasing before anything. The charging light and mowing in reverse lights stay on so I will need to resolve those also. Best thing, no buyers remorse.

Had to move the last of my house stuff into the garage last night, so the 3 machines that have resided there since resto had to spend the night out under the temp awning. For the next few months they will be spead between the barn and utility building. They didn't seem to mind so far...

Got the other 520H going and mounted 48” deck back on it, everything seems to be good. Mowed about 30/40 mins with it just to see if she was going go or blow. The ol girl ran good and strong never missed a beat, strong hydro. Mowing deck was leaving 2 streaks evey pass and I said self Ive seen this before , PO had 42” blades installed, if he thought it mowed good before he would really think it mows good after I put 48” blades on it . BTW put some wheel spacers on it, will show in a thread in restoration forum.

Did a diesel fuel flush and gear oil change on the 161 before installing the ARK for the first time. Lessons learned...black hoods are too wide to clear the hydraulic pump and a shaker plate calls for an inch or so shorter belt It's always something.

Ok Ed, you asked for it! 🤣 IMG_4058.mov

Got the Bervac swapped onto 416. Also swapped rear hitch, larger wheels/tires from Workhorse. Still have a few more preventive maint items to get done. Got lift assist springs installed/adjusted & 150lbs of weight on hitch. Now I gotta figure out what to do with the Workhorse. Be nice to have it for parts but dont really want it sitting around...... 20260814_133023.mp4

Two "idiots" that I know of. Now at least. It was only one before your post.

More shed organizing..what kind of idiot has four spare 8 speeds “in-stock” (plus a 4 speed)

Trying to organize my spare tires/wheels, moved some into the new shed this evening. Left all my crummy tires and wheels in my old tarp shed.

The C41 has two rubber stops and springs under the seat/spring mounting plate. one spring was broken and one rubber stop was missing. After scrounging through the “extra parts” I found two heavier springs and two rubber stops. A few minutes later they were installed.

The 67 towed the 83 from the back shed up to the garage for a drive belt swap. Thought I was saving a few $$ using the belt I just removed from a junk C-81..but it ended up being a little shorter and she just doesn’t declutch like it should. Grinds the gears a bit. Crud!! I guess I’ll be using a brand new belt I picked up at this years WH Show. The idler pulley was shot on the 83 (GT-1600) so the C-81 did donate a nice smooth one so there’s that

Painted some WH rear wheel weights and some JD front weights red today.

Decided that painting these wheel weights was worth the effort. Now I just need to pull the front wheels and get rid of that bright white that somebody painted them with. UPDATE: