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I'd like to add I'm one of those liars at the restaurant table ...

I'll chip in 82.

Not only is there a wealth of information available and freely given. There is also the friendly bantering and camaraderie. it's not unlike sitting around the liars table at the local restaurant. Good group and well run organization.

came to start my Suburban 400 and I really struggled. Convinced myself it was fuel, then carb - took it apart and messed about. Finally put the drill on the flywheel and it just about ran, but died. Pressed the clutch pedal and tried again and it ran like a dream! Not used to these little 4hp engines, nor the fact that the 90W gear oil is like glue when it is -8 dec C. I think even the straight 30 in the engines is a bit gloopy too! Tried the 551, that wouldn't crank either and pressing the clutch make all the difference too! I'll remember that in future.... Maybe someone could invent an oil that isn't as thick when cold Maybe I stick to bigger engines with electric start!

Once all the bolts are out, you need to chase the threads - by hand. Don't be a hero and chuck up the tap in a cordless drill. Yes the hand method takes longer, but do you really feel like extracting a snapped off tap??

when i first got a few blackhoods 3-4 yrs ago i wasn't sure i liked the plastic pan design but quickly became a fan - - they offer a distinctive different look - and along with the black hood it makes them different than the traditional design -- sorta gives them a special unique character

I never did care much for the look of the plastic seat pan/fenders, although this one is flawless no cracks or breaks. I put the wheels and tires of a 520 and I gotta say it makes the plastic look pretty good now. Lol!! I might keep it for a while this way before I throw a metal seat pan on it.

I’d like to add 42 years owning, using, fixing, restoring, and collecting Wheel Horse tractors and implements 👍🏻🙂

I like it! If the plastic fenders were good when I restored my C-175 I would have used them. That style has grown on me over the years, I’d even consider buying some in good condition for the right price. My C-161 Twin Automatic has those fenders but they are slightly damaged.

I buy mine at a truck topper dealer. He has 5 gallon buckets full from old topper lift gates at $5 each

One other trick is to attempt to tighten the bolt a bit more, they were only torqued to 45 foot pounds by Kohler so there will be some room to go without fear of breaking.

Got this for my 520-HC works great https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093BKZX4V?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2

Put the mule drive back on the tractor so the weight of the tractor will hold it and then use a couple feet of pipe to extend your wrench's leverage. Another option would be to drill the bolt out with gradually bigger bits until it reaches the threads on one side of the nut. By the way it is right hand thread.

This bolt sheared on me recently (see my post) I had put oil on it for a number of days and also heated it up to try and get some penetration. Fixed it by drilling out and using a helicoil. However on removing the valves to clean and reseat I noticed a portion of the thread was xxopsed in the exhaust port. Not sure if this is normal or a faulty casting. Anyway, good luck.

Amazon.com: AR-PRO Wheel Hub Spacers – Metal 3/4" Axle Spacer Kit, Combo Pack with 4 x 1/2" and 4 x 1/4" Extension Sleeves for Lawn Tractors and Riding Mowers : Industrial & Scientific These are also good to have in stock.

You can also buy a pack of 3/4 machine washers at TSC that are good for taking up slop in smaller amounts. They have a much smaller OD than regular washers as well. Nice and neat when installed.

Bill brings up a good point about preload of the bearings and especially so if those spindles have worn spots on them. Absolutely it's easier to just use a lock collar for spacing out smaller rim bore lengths. Sometimes necessary as I've done it purposely just so the bearings are not positioned directly in the old worn grooves of the spindles but on some good meat of them. 3/4" ID shim washers are available and cheap to add preload when using a bolt and washer tapped into the end of the spindles. So exact precision of the cut length to the rim bore length isn't completely necessary to achieve it. Plus they are nice to have around for shimming the steering components as well for a tighter fit and less slop at the fan gear.