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August 28, 1830 The first American-built locomotive, "Tom Thumb," races a horse-drawn car from the Stockton and Stokes stagecoach company from Baltimore to Ellicott Mills; due to mechanical problems, the horse wins!

Nicely done sir.

Heat pump installed just needs covers on charge lines installed. Here is the spec sheet. SB_TW24HXP2A1DITW24HXP2A1DO_20260211.pdf

Have a Great Day Howard

Marriage is like a deck of cards. At first, you need two hearts and a diamond. By the end, you just want a club and a spade.

Hope you’re sleeping in today Howard!

Who tells chicken jokes? Comedi hens!

I guess i will keep posting my progress even though this is a Jacobsen it still contains similar components! Now im onto the Kohler K301 had to do a lot of clean up grease oil crud ect!! Now into the motor! Will change fluids on hydro when I know this machine is running@ Pulled the head and man I thought what a disaster but that's what you get pulling a tractor that's been sitting for who knows how long in a field!! Got it cleaned up and it looks pretty good over all will do a flush and valve job and then see if it runs then go from there! Here are some pics of progress!

It’s full enough to give my well a rest, and give the pool a vacuum job! Yay!

Thanks. Perhaps @SylvanLakeWH can do a haiku?!

ETHANOL: Eventually Tank Harbors Annoying, Nasty, Obstructive Lumps

I finally found out the problem and solution to my D200 rear lift issue. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OFWgezVlYKI

Agreed, all thread is probably grade 2 and is not a suitable choice, unfortunately it's what I had on hand that was long enough. Due to the hubs being about 7-3/8" in diameter and my steel disks being 8-1/2', about the largest diameter bolt that I can use is 1/2". Also, due to the thickness of the metal plates and bearing separator I would need 1/2" bolts that are 10" long or longer. I just checked McMaster Carr and they carry grade 8 1/2-13 x 10" bolts but they are $10 each, add in shipping and I'm looking at $40 just for the bolts with no guarantee they would work. I don't think I can find any 10" bolts locally but I'll check just to be sure. I recently bought a 3/4-10 x 5" grade 8 bolt with two nuts from Tractor Supply and the total was $10 Since one front wheel was toast and the other one not far behind I decided to go in a slightly different route for putting wheels on the front. I purchased a pair of Club Car front wheel hub kits and will be using 8" x 7" wheels with a 4 on 4 bolt pattern. Below is a picture where I used a section of pipe to mock up the spacers I think I'll need to position the hubs properly. Until I get the wheels delivered the size of the spacer is still in question. My initial plan is to position the outer wheel bearing just slightly short of the end of the spindle and use thin shims between the washer and the bearing to create the required preload. Needless to say, this is a work in progress. The goal is to have the wheels positioned on the spindle in the same relative location as original. The original wheels have a neutral or zero offset so the hubs just have to be placed in the same location as the originals using spacers and shim.

I use regular E10 without issue. I do use ethanol free in my two cycle engines and those that will sit for months.

Yeah, I was thinking my Maggie could get some regular gas while it's flowing pretty fast, and then scale back to efree when it's sitting longer

I and others have added a anti sway device to the front of the plow frame to keep the blade centered. On mine I can also adjust the minimum blade height on this device. I use it when plowing the stone roads. Dozer blades..Keep em centered. - Implements and Attachments - RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum

Yep dealer converted tho. True I quit Harleys and took up much cheaper horses because prices got nuts.

The crankshaft should clean up OK with a bit of muriatic acid. A non-running parts tractor I bought twenty some odd years back had a crank looked just like that and a small chip out of the bottom of the cylinder. Honed the cylinder, put a piston and rod kit in it and it ran well. Sold the tractor a few years later and the new owner loved it.

How much oil was actually in it? There are other things that can happen besides low oil. For example: Not running long enough to evaporate all the moisture in the crankcase, a little stays in the rod bearing and rusts the crank, just a little at first. Next time it runs, the rust smears off a little bit of rod alloy. Now you have a little groove, which will hold more moisture the next time you don't run it long enough. You get more rust, which smears more aluminum and makes more grooves, etc. Keep doing it, at some point enough aluminum builds up that it seizes, breaks off the big end of the rod and throws the piston to top of bore where it stays. In any case, as they say, you are here. And you know what needs to be done.

I think no matter what, you need two antennas just for the cool factor. Even if only one is hooked up, two will look cooler!

Expensive yes but hopefully worth it in the end.

Yes, i never had AC in the shop so I am looking forward to that. I had a propane furnace but I am getting tired of paying for the tank rental and just buying propane in general. I am hoping the heat pump can keep up in the winter but if not I have a 5000 watt heater for backup. The house is getting a new heat pump with an electric air handler for air circulation and backup as well. The house central AC unit has been on the way out for a few years now and this summer the furnace blower went out and it is $1200 just for the part so I am just getting rid of the whole setup. I hope that I am not making a big mistake putting these in. I will let you know next year how they work.. These are both high seer inverter units that are supposed to be very efficient and work in the cold.

I have two fenders primed although one of them needs more sanding and a re-prime. Two hoods are stripped and ready for sand and prime. I am getting a heat pump installed in the shop so it is a mess right now.

Another rainy day do I started dismantling the engine for cleanup. I do not believe it needs a full tear down as it ran quiet and smooth. I took some picture of the tin work so I can put it back together properly. Choke and throttle linkage as found. Flywheel ready to be pulled Flywheel puller installed after chasing the threads for the puller bolts. Flywheel pulled and very dirty inside. Alternator coil is remarkably clean as compared to the flywheel for some reason.

A pun walked into a bar. Ten people immediately died. Pun in, ten dead.

My "Shelf of Shame."

After 1 1/2 days of raking the stones out of the grass and back on the road, I was ready for a fun project. So this afternoon I made a blade centering device for the 312H. I also wanted to stop the hydro lift from pulling the plow frame up against the front axle, so I incorporated a stop into the centering device. Two 5/8" bolts salvaged from a utility pole, a piece of a scrap electrical panel door, a piece of old fuel line, and a piece of a worn out blade scraper bar. It was even warm enough to throw on a layer of Regal Red.

I’ve run local regular gas in all my tractors since I rehabbed and started using them. I’d assume they have ethanol, but I haven’t had any problems yet with any of the associated problems with running ethanol in the gas so possibly not. I’ve had my 312 for four years and no issues. ethanol in the gas so emissions it will pass but the rubber lines don’t last for us to cut grass with our tractors from the past I was going for a Dr. Seussesqe rhyme I’m on the fence about if I did it.

A local radio station had a pun contest. A guy really wanted to win. He submitted ten puns. None of them won the contest. No pun in ten did.

I drilled 1/8" holes every 1/2" and use a washer and hairpin clip to set the blade height.

Yes, smooth at the bottom. Threads will wear--both the hole and the rod. You’d need very sturdy through pins in this application to handle the shear forces. Alternatively, you could weld a flange onto the bottom end of the rod (under the plow frame) and do the adjusting with nuts on a few threads at the upper end (above the bracket on the attach-a-matic adaptor). That way, the plow frame floats on the smooth part of the rod and not the threaded part. Note that a minimum height setup is great on the level, but dips or rises on the driveway are another matter!

Every single Small Engine piece of equipment we have gets non-ethanol fuel. To the best of my knowledge there is not one additive that negates the effects of ethanol such as grabbing extra water and rusting lines, degrading rubber, and possibly eating aluminum parts. Regular gas around here is just below $4 this week. I believe non ethanol can be had for around $5.70.

Where do farmers send their kids to grow? Kinder-garden.

Finally finished Miss Daisy. Parts came under the cover of darkness. New key switch, fuel lines, fuel shutoff and grommet, used ammeter, changed the fluids 3 used tires and the patina treatment. Runs flawless. Didn't have to touch the carb at all, Belt rattles at low engine speed. Thinking of a new belt even though the old one looks ok and an idler pulley. On to the deck to see if I can salvage it and sell it as a unit.

The all thread will probably never get the job done any way you could get some grade 8 bolts to replace it with?

My first k181 did this. I knew it used oil, but it had been about 1/4 qt across the whole of the summer. It apparently got much worse very quickly. I had it running to warm the oil before a change and had to go deal with some kid thing. It sounded 100% normal when I walked away. The guy across the street said he heard a loud pop, and then it shut off.

Apparently, there is a lucrative market for toy tractors. Like anything else, there are specific models and features (like open grille and closed grille) that affect the value. We talked to a friend today who said that his buddy sold 2 (restored pristine) today in Portland. One for $1,000 and another for $1,250. Said he only sold them so that he could buy a different lot of 3 rare tractors to restore. Unbelievable!

Now that we have confirmed that your solenoid is working as it should we can backtrack from there. Is the START light illuminated when the key is in the start position? The LOW OIL relay has four wires going to it. Orange, Black, Light Blue, and Purple. The Black wire needs to be grounded. If the Orange wire has 12 volts on it while the key is in the start position your engine is low on oil (Oil light should be on if oil is low) or the switch in the engine is bad. You should have 12 volts on the Light Blue wire of the LOW OIL relay with the ignition switch in the start position. If you do have 12 volts on the Light Blue wire but did not have 12 volts on the Purple wire the Low Oil relay has 12 volts to the Orange Wire or the relay is defective. If the Light Blue wire has 12 volts on it we can move to the Neutral Switch, the Neutral light should be on with the key in Start. If not, you may need to locate the switch and adjust it where it will respond to the direction control being in neutral. Next in line will be the PTO switch, the PTO light should be on with the PTO disengaged and the key in the start position. If not, you may need to locate the switch and adjust it where it will respond to the PTO being disengaged.

Saw this on Facebook. I would love to have some people's wallets even if its just for a day

For heat and AC?

Hole to get fixed.

I would always adjust the carburetor so that you know the mixture, idle mixture, idle speed and maximum RPM is correct. We had a Cub Cadet dealer that always set for the leanest mixture possible, they ran well till they didn't. I replaced the valves he burned.

Yes well there were no others at the time on ebay better and I didn't know about A to Z tractor then and wanted to mow my lawn.

That might have been a company standard, or government regulation. Trina has a pull start Horse here that @Sparky once owned. She can sit in the seat and tug the rope just fine. The first cold start of a day is a challenge. After that it's a one pull machine.

Finally I have it installed , all the pieces are there (almost), works as it should. I have to tweak some things here and there, I probably oil rusty parts, I am not going to paint it. Pivot points needed some grease. There is connection bar with holes, I don't know, maybe chain links are better? I installed plow just to check if everything works. .

How are you planning to get power to the front? I see the drive sprocket, so I assume a chain drive of some sort.