Leaderboard

Following up on my post yesterday. Found the umbrella. Really nice condition. Don’t believe I ever opened it before. From the mid 1980’s, a gift from Wheelhorse. My office was in their HQ but I worked for the finance company who floorplanned all their dealers. Not looking to sell it but if and when will certainly offer it here. Great forum! Still using my 1996 314-H. The Best Buy ever! Got one before Toro tossed the quality units out the door.

March 2, 1966, in Dearborn, Michigan, the Ford Motor Company celebrates the production of its 1 millionth Mustang, a white convertible. The sporty, affordable vehicle was officially launched two years earlier, on April 17, 1964, at the World’s Fair in Flushing Meadows, New York. That same day, the new car debuted in Ford showrooms across America; almost immediately, buyers snapped up nearly 22,000 of them. More than 400,000 Mustangs were sold within that first year, exceeding sales expectations.

Raked the stones back to the hard road then used the dozer blade to push them to the stone road.

I remember riding in one in the Ford pavilion at the Fair

Thank you Big Unit ! @ebinmaine @Achto

I replaced a bunch of upper ball joints on the trio - the Falcon, Mustang and Fairlanes. On a side note - my son bought a 35th Aniversary model - nothing but annoying issues with it. We called it the "Mustake"

There are some very small passages in the carburetor that need to be cleaned for proper operation. Since the engine runs reasonably well you could try a heavy dose of Seafoam or Berryman B12 gas treatment to see if they will help clean these passages. Be sure to use gas that has no ethanol in it, use this website to find a local source. https://www.pure-gas.org/

Got another update. This time with both tractors. So I purchased everything to modify the 73 to have a PTO brake and the compression spring to help disengage the PTO. Got everything installed and the spring was compressing before the PTO made contact with the clutch disc. For hahas I pulled the PTO off my 77 and it was no longer an issue, put the brand new one on the 77 and that worked just fine too. Not sure what the issue is but either way, they both ended up working, just not the way I thought it would lol. Also, I found this 8” Brinly that I believe is an early 70s as the paint was white at some point in its life. Got for a steal I think too. I’m hoping that Brinly hasn’t changed their parts much if at all. The trunnion and crank handle are rotted together. I did order the parts from Brinly and hopefully they’ll work out.

Yes it is easy to do. The hole is already in the block for the points push rod If it is a problem with your breakerless coil I have one you can have.

Yep, a Falcon with a pretty face..... Just about all 6 cylinder drivetrain & suspension parts are derived from its more utilitarian cousin.

MTV of the 80s before rap took over.

Very few service manuals were ever published. There is one 1978-79 that covers much of your model as a C-Series that can help. The transmissions have there own service manual and the engines are supported by the manufacturer. The engine service manual is in the 23 files above and a link to the transmission manual below

Your model number is the A1-11B801 and your engine number is 252417-0664-01. These 23 files come up with a A1-11801 search and they are in no particular order. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q= A1-11B801&quick=1&type=downloads_file

Onan engine stationary guard ready to be installed. Onan engine ready for stationary guard to be installed. Onan engine stationary guard installed and screws torqued to 22 in/lb. Tractor as of today. Hopefully it will warm up soon and I can get it out to set the carb. and hydro.

@EB-80/8inPA my carbole electric pumps are 2-3.5 psi , no issues , pete

Check for play in the throttle shaft. Air leaking in around shaft can cause poor idle.

Breakerless ignition does not use points or condenser. It is pretty much a binary system..it works great or not at all. You might test the coil when it is hot. You could check the air gap but I doubt that is an issue. also put a spark plug tester on it...does the spark stay strong when it is acting up?

That right there is the understatement of all time...

Well, were going to find out. I pulled the transaxle off the tractor last night and will bring it into work and go through it. Definitely had more than .003 of radial play. Want to power wash it before I disassemble it.

Got some new tires that I thought would be a good reference here. Armstrong "Big Bite" 16x8.50-8. 4 ply rated. Actual measurements are dead on 16 inches tall, 8 and 3/8 wide. First pic is one next to a 7.50 wide tire, next beside the old Firestone 6.50 tri ribs. Mounted on 8x7 wheels.

Yes it's a Wheel Horse plow but for a later walk behind tractor 1954-56. They used 8 inch plow made by Brinly . Early 1953 and earlier model's used a 7 inch plow. You can tell it's for a Walk behind tractor because of the long slot hitch tongue even though they didn't have a true slt hitch like the 4 wheel tractors. The Rj 35 on up used a shorter tongue

After l bent the balancer puller plate and destroyed the threads on a advance auto PT brand one. I returned that one for the warranty. And ordered a used snap-on from eBay for $30, 100% worth it. I was going between this snap-on, and a old Mac puller. Ended up going snap-on because of the applications I am using it for, the snap-on's design let's the plate sit a little closer, when pulling on shafts like this. I am not huge on tool truck name tool brands. I have many different brands in my toolbox, lot of old craftsman, crescent, masterforce (menards brand) are the main ones. But these pullers, are one tool I would definitely go name brand, or at least old on.

That's why one has to dig through those buckets & milk crates at flea markets & garage sales.

Vintage tools are the key.

Ok now we are going to need pictures of this tractor!

I checked that when i first pulled the carb apart. I was able to push carb cleaner through all of the orifices. The engine is very responsive to the adjustments done to the carb. Thank you guys for all of your input. I really appreciate it

You need to air the tires down to almost zero to adjust, even a few pounds can be too much, and then back up to your usual pressure.

Another update. Took her around the property after tightening the outside one more link. Much better! They stayed tight, though one of the latches popped loose. It seems like it's just the way that side's chain is oriented. I tucked it back best I could and double zip tied it to the chain link. I've got ever so slight movement of the rubber but that seems to just be due to the way the links line up on either side. Also, the rubber bars are pulled more to the outside than the inside of the rim. This seems due to the 3 links vs 2 links, so the chain is tighter on the outside and thus pulling more. I still have full coverage across the tread so I assume that's fine? I'll also add, I took the tractor to an absolute mud pit of the property I never go to unless the ground is baked by the summer heat. Slipped in it for maybe a second or two, and then the rubber chains pulled me right out! How awesome! Think I'm sold

Gary is faster than I am. Here is everything related to your model number. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=A1-11B801&quick=1

Does adjusting the high speed and idle on carb have any effect on the way it runs? If not, the carb is still stopped up somewhere. Had a similar experience a while back, clean carb, try another carb, replace fuel line etc. Finally came to the conclusion that fuel pimp was full of trash and would stop carb up almost immediately when I got it back together Rebuilt fuel pump and haven't had any more trouble out of it. Just something to think about and hope you get it running.

Ya thats too much pressure,it is overcoming the float valve I believe.

I turned down some aluminum roundstock in my lathe and bushed the throttle shaft thinking that could be the issue

The blue color on the intake stem is concerning. I'm thinking you have intermittent gremlins in you ignition trigger throwing the timing off. Or there is something loose in the muffler not letting the exhaust gasses escape and overheating that valve and leaning out the mixture.

If this purchase gets more serious and travel is the only hold up, keep us posted. My transportation for the Big Show has not yet been established this year. I have some other items already sold and dedicated to delivery, so room and trailer real estate is not pinned down.

On a 12hp you won't notice much of a difference. 14 and 16hp have a little more thump when the gears are removed (longer throw on the crank and bigger piston) but it isn't terrible in most cases. My Bronco 14 has no balance gears and I don't think it's bad at all.

Wondering if anyone out there has one or has seen one. Just remembered getting one when I worked inside the South Bend HQ in the mid 1980’s. Don’t recall who gave it to me but pretty sure it was a gift. Will post a photo when I get my hands on it this week. Don’t recall it ever being used or even opened up for that matter.

Geez Don ... kinda like me askin if a planter was for sale ...

3 late bloomers voted on option C and they do look good; well they all look pretty awesome. When ahead and pulled the trigger on option E, that red horse head emblem just kept calling my name . That Wheel Horse emblem adds just enough bling bling without being too overbearing.

We got all kinds just forgot to adjust the quantity when we did run out for a very short time then we made some more, here is a picture of a few we will get the quantity adjusted shortly and they’ll reappear

Worked on this Clinton for a bit for the RJ-35 cable steer. These are like Onans or techies or even Briggs ... easy to work on but just a bastage to find parts for.

Rescued an orphaned snowplow today, guy threw in a set of tire chains (white bucket) as well. Was his father’s before he passed, his mom sold the tractor years ago, believed to be a 312-8, and the plow just collected dust. Today was the first time I drove since January 19th, day of my rotator cuff surgery, felt good to be back in the saddle.

Great to finally have a day near 60 degrees. Had a few out for some fresh air. Cherry smoke smells great too. Smoked turkey sandwiches later.

Yes @Ed Kennell does do that, but just watch him. He might try to keep it 😂😂😂. Just kidding, Ed was a huge help in getting my barn find all original C-101 to the Big Show for me! Thanks again Ed 👍🏻

Settled on a Gloss Smoke Gray for the lower/wider stripe. If you’re wondering how I came up with this color decision…well it was in stock in my paint cabinet! Looks very different depending on the lighting. Last picture is what I started with.

Yesterday evening my daughter wanted to drive the fastest tractor I've got. I told her to take the Bronco for a spin. I think she's hooked!

It looks like I'm diving head first into Wheelhorse transmission rebuilding. The Raider 12 I recently bought supposedly had a rebuilt trans but is leaking through the case seam and one axle seal and based on some little things I've found on the outside of the trans IF it was rebuilt I'm not overly confident in how well it was done so at the very least I'm opening it up to replace the case gasket and check things out. Next up is my Raider 9 I'm pulling out of moth balls after a 30 year slumber. The trans on it is leaking like the Exxon Valdez and it had a hard life before I parked it. I'm expecting to find significant wear inside it but hoping not to. Then there's the original 3 speed out of my Commando V-8, it may have serious internal injuries, one of the shafts is sticking out the bottom through the case plug. I'm hoping to save it as I need the one I used to replace it to put the CG-7 donor back together eventually. Question No. 1 - How likely will it be that I have to replace needle bearings? Because on both the Raider and Commando transmissions some of those are very hard to find, and two of the ones I can't find so far are common to both styles of transmission. Are there any cross references to standard bearing numbers? The Raider 12 looks like it was well cared for and was used for mainly mowing. My Commando V-8 was strictly a mower. The Raider 9 however saw a LOT of snow plowing and may have been used to work a garden before I got it. The trans worked well as I recall but it's been a long time since it has moved under its own power. Question No. 2 - Has anyone made a work stand/fixture to support the 5060 transmission while working on it and would you be willing to share pictures of it? The Commando V-8 trans opens from the bottom so I can just lay it on it's top but the 5060 will need to stand on end. Question No. 3 - Any tips or hints? I've downloaded every YouTube video I could find LOL. If the Raider 12 doesn't need axle bearings and I don't need to remove any internals when I replace the case gasket I plan to replace the axle seals with the axles in place. My plan is to remove the seals and then seat the new ones using a piece of 1-1/4" Schedule 80 PVC with one end trued in a lathe to seat the seal so it doesn't get cocked and damaged. The ID is large enough to go over the axle and the OD should contact the metal seal housing perfectly.

@Pullstart check out the Speedies... Cool buildings. Here's your plan Mike... or mine. I got the first two covered. Get retired Buy a enclosed. Put your motor scooter in enclosed. Maybe a horse too. Head south before that snow storm. Attend a show and ride the Lorida Keys. Live the dream.

Since the 867 is done brought this one in. This is the mother of all originals. Only thing that wasn't was the cigar lighter & quickly replaced. Lift cable broke & fan screen gone that's it. Well la dee da. Needs a bath, a little degreaseing and the new to check list. Just can't believe how unmolested this thing is. Yes thats the orginal seat! The deck is super quiet so just clean that up & check over. I really lucked out on this one and you guys would rip yer shirts off i told ya what I paid. It may go in the living room when done I'll help her pack.

416 Anniversary complete except for final setup of carb and hydro, and hood which will be completed next summer. Wife took this picture. She laughed at me taking my shoes off to sit on the tractor.

The 520H had been acting like it was starving for fuel during the tail end of the last storm clean up. I actually had to leave the warm cab and brave the cold to finish with the 312H. I had installed an epump last fall and she had been running fine till now. Time to find the problem before the next storm that is coming this Sat. I pulled the line off near the carb and turned on the epump and got barely a dribble. Nice thing about the epumps..you don't have to crank the engine to check for good fuel supply. So, I went to the other end and pulled the line on the fuel tank petcock....not even a dribble. from the tank. The petcock was clogged with dirt. A good cleaning of the petcock and flushing the tank and back together and running like a happy ONAN should. When installing this I like to coat it with vaseline then just start the valve in the grommet before pushing the grommet into the tank then push the valve barb into the grommet.