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Had today off so hit a tractor museum in Perth Australia, about an hour north of where I’m at. Almost all farm tractors but they did have one that was “WH size” called Howard. Had my Lawn/Garden tractor mag with me, perfect for a picture! And yes, I wore one of my WHCC shirts

Scored a set of 25lb. IH wheel weights at a garage sale. While looking at them the lady asked if she was asking too much and seemed willing to reduce the price. But they were already cheap. I knew she was a recent widow with teenagers so I paid her price and bought some other stuff I really didn’t need. The weights were an ugly shade of red over some yellow paint. Using a wire bush on an angle grinder most of the paint came off. But the magic smoke started pouring out of my good Makita grinder.🤬🤬 Have had it for about 25 years. Painted the weights orange and will install them on the Roper with the front boom. Gonna miss that Makita.🥺

September 12, 1972 , After nearly 40 years of riding across millions of American TV and movie screens, the cowboy actor William Boyd, best known for his role as Hopalong Cassidy, dies at the age of 77. Boyd’s greatest achievement was to be the first cowboy actor to make the transition from movies to television.

His USA cousin.

that’s a sweet paint job, on Grandpa’s old tractor!

This picture taken at "interveiw"

Edy had a cabinet in the garage that she wanted gone. I didn’t need to use the Roper to move it but I wanted to.😁😁😁 I transported it to the workshop and installed it in a corner of my office.

Those big wire brushes kill a lot of angle grinders.

Added a receiver hitch to the rear of my RJ-59 to attach a garbage can hauler. I have a very steep driveway and at 66 it is difficult to get the heavy trash cans to the curb. Worked better than expected and I still get joy out of driving my grandfather's tractor he purchased new. BTW this is how I learned to drive!

By the controls on the hood it's a 60 400

You had me at "boom"... I thought this was going to be another story about the connecting rod getting a sudden urge to vacate the premises....

1/2 hour long early doe season!!! 2 tags 2 doe 15 minutes after sunrise I drop the first one... while I'm gutting it, no. 2 moseys by... dropped her as well... both fell where they stood!!!

This is why I now interview guys that wanna buy my horses. To make sure they get taken care of. Gives meaning to going to a good home.

I've done one too. EXCELLENT upgrade. The side angle control is far superior to OE.

Made another set of tie rods and mounted them on th ol 1257 (Vince). With the thrust bearings under the spindles, new tie rods and the larger steering wheel its like having power steering .

Masking removed and tires aired to 12 PSI.

Is this sort of what you had in mind?

Same here. Pa Game Commission allots over 1.3 million general antlerless tags per year. Every license holder may purchase up to 6 for most WMU (wildlife management unit) and 15 for high density urban areas. Baiting is also allowed in these areas. There is also AG TAG and DMAP programs to allow taking of additional deer where deer damage is a problem. There is also a Certified hunter program that links landowners that have a deer problem with qualified hunters. There is also a statewide venison donation program. But even with these programs, only 360,000 antlerless deer were reported harvested in 2025. I would be surprised if the PGC would reward a hunter with a second buck tag for harvesting X number of antlered deer.

Some of the sidekicks made the horse look smart

I thought that I would start a thread of this little tractor. Got a trailer hitch so I can pull it out of the container. Got some C-clips to secure the front wheels. Searching for a shift lever and now I'm working on the steering wheel. As it gets cooler, I'll get more done on this project. Gonna be a long term project. Thinking I'll flush the trans with diesel fuel and put Penetrol on the tractor for the patina. Looking at engine options. Liking the idea of a diesel or Predator just to get it going. More progress to come. Thanks for all the information and advice. The PC-7 will need more coats. Dave Dave

Similar happened to me last fall with my 25ish year old Craftsman corded reciprocating saw. I was working it hard trimming branches early last Fall when it had a "Thermal Event". Just stay up wind from that Electro-toast smell! I already own a couple of Dewalt 20 Volt items, so I caught a Black Friday sale & purchased the cordless model. Works great, but sucks thru batteries! About 4 in an hour..... My son has the cordless angle grinder - says it works great.

So then I went back to the governor shaft and readjusted that and that allowed the engine to run at higher RPMs. What do you think of this level of RPMs? Tomorrow I get a tachometer so I'll be able to better set the high to 3600.

How do I get higher RPMs governor Wheel Horse 414–8 Magnum Kohler 14 The question you are asking runs counter to the purpose of the governor. The attached manual has a step by step adjustment process. Try moving the rod that is presently in the sixth hole to the third hole and see if it becomes more responsive. To adjust the mechanical governor on a Kohler engine follow these steps. Turn off the engine: Ensure the engine is completely off and cool before working on the linkage. Set throttle to wide open: Move your equipment's speed control lever to the fast or high-speed position so the carburetor throttle butterfly is pushed completely open. the governor arm nut: Find the bolt or nut that clamps the governor arm to the metal cross shaft coming out of the engine block. Loosen it just enough so the arm can rotate freely on the shaft. Rotate the governor shaft: Hold the carburetor throttle wide open, then rotate the governor cross shaft as far as it will go in the direction that pulls the throttle open until it bottoms out and stops. Tighten the clamp nut: While holding the carburetor wide open and the governor shaft fully rotated to its stop position, securely tighten the clamping nut or bolt on the governor arm. Torque it down properly (typically around 60 inch-pounds if using a torque wrench) With this understanding, here’s how to check the governor. Manually move the governor arm/throttle lever back and forth between the stops. Observe the amount of movement and the tension on the governor spring. Detach the spring from the governor arm. Position the governor arm/throttle in the middle and start the engine. Gradually adjust the governor arm to slow down and speed up the engine. As the engine speed rises, you should notice an increase in tension on the governor arm, and as the engine speed drops, the tension should decrease. If there is no tension at all, the governor is likely faulty, and the engine will need to be disassembled for inspection. The primary purpose of the governor on a Kohler air-cooled engine is to maintain a constant engine speed (RPM) under varying workloads. It is not to speed the engine up; the governor's role is to attempt to slow the engine down. The faster the engine runs, the more pressure is exerted on the governor shaft (in the engine) and arm. The point at which the force from the governor (trying to slow the engine) matches the force from the governor spring (trying to speed the engine up) and maintains a steady engine speed is referred to as the governed speed. When you use equipment like a lawnmower, tractor, or generator, the engine encounters different levels of resistance (such as hitting tall grass or drawing an electrical load). The governor automatically adjusts the throttle to keep the engine running at its optimal speed, preventing it from stalling or over-speeding. When the governor detects Load Changes its RPM naturally starts to drop. The governor senses this drop in speed and automatically opens the throttle valve to let in more fuel and air, restoring the engine to its target speed. Conversely, if the load is suddenly removed, the engine speed will rapidly increase. The governor responds by closing the throttle to prevent catastrophic internal engine damage from over-revving. Kohler’s mechanical (Centrifugal) Governor: Uses internal flyweights attached to a gear inside the engine. As the engine spins, centrifugal force moves the weights, which act on a shaft and linkage connected to the carburetor throttle. When the engine is off, the governor spring keeps the throttle in the wide-open position. Upon starting the engine, the governor, which consists of a centrifugal weight inside the engine, begins to spin. Centrifugal force pushes a weight outward, applying pressure on the governor shaft and causing it to turn. The governor arm, connected to the governor shaft outside the engine, also moves. With this understanding, here’s how to check the governor. Manually move the governor arm/throttle lever back and forth between the stops. Observe the amount of movement and the tension on the governor spring. Detach the spring from the governor arm. Position the governor arm/throttle in the middle and start the engine. Gradually adjust the governor arm to slow down and speed up the engine. As the engine speed rises, you should notice an increase in tension on the governor arm, and as the engine speed drops, the tension should decrease. If there is no tension at all, the governor is likely faulty, and the engine will need to be disassembled for inspection.

Definitely need Tecumseh engine. Definitely a good engines if you know how to take care of them meaning they like to run more often than Kohler. Can be finicky engines. .

Also, be sure the throttle cable clamp is keeping the cable jacket secured.

Took the 1257 (Vince) out for a drive in the wilderness today, after replacing tie rods with some homegrown tie rods.

Definitely agreed.

Don't forget the grommet, gasket, seal or whatever it's called today, that seals around the oil filter. I know that you are aware of that but I thought it might be a good time to remind others in this crowd. I do wonder why the oil filter is so far from center of the opening, it appears that the tins need to move back.

Amen

Ok so now I gotta ask ... what the hell is "dry camping"? I don't think @Achto would like not having the Captain in camp...

It should treat you fine. I have a neighbor who is a cub guy. Has a 1050 and a 1650. Both need major work. I've tried to get him to take one of my Wheel Horse's, but the Cubs are easier for him to get on and off of.

I was looking to see if I could find a snow plow for this RJ-58 tractor. Is there a specific one I need to search for or can I use other plows made by Wheel Horse? Thanks!

Fixed it for ya...

That's why Trina - aka The Paint Department - does all our work.

Nice tractor!!!

Killing time to go to the last tractor show so finished up a Onan I got from @Blasterdad at Pullstart's plow day. Should have left the heat shield off 'till after retorque heads run. I have high hopes for this being a decent shelf motor for the 520s. Hope you like the color changes. Just something different.

Going through the 520xi I just purchased as leaf vacuuming season will be here shortly. Besides new air filter, greasing, changing tranny and engine oil and filters, the mower didn’t have a battery hold down bracket so I made one of those. One of the lift rods was broken and the PO had it tied up with rope so I fabricated one of those also, as the $80 price I saw for a OEM one was totally ridiculous. Went with synthetic transmission fluid and with the little I drove it, it seemed to drive better. Forgot I bought new plugs so I still need to replace them. Have bearings for poor man’s power steering but that will be a separate project. The battery on my AC916H that I sold that I have been nursing along for a few years of course died the day the buyer came to get it so it got the 520xi battery and the 520xi got a new one.

Still slowly getting stuff done on 416H. New voltage regulator. Was barely charging @12v & it dropped when my upgraded led lights were turned on. Now its charging properly. I can add some aux lights confidently now.

Finished up on the C160 front end today replaced tie rods with some l had made a while back. Also added thrust bearings on the spindles. Good thing I had the homegrown tie rods ready, one of the old ones fell apart when I took it off . Steers way easier than before even with the wider wheels and 5 rib V61 tires.

I will give you this @WHX?? famous quote "good enough for the girls we go out with"

Sold the Workhorse today! Guy I purchased it from bought it back. Looks like everything gonna work out, especially for me. I got the 416 now to replace it.

Looks identical to mine

Got the other 520H going and mounted 48” deck back on it, everything seems to be good. Mowed about 30/40 mins with it just to see if she was going go or blow. The ol girl ran good and strong never missed a beat, strong hydro. Mowing deck was leaving 2 streaks evey pass and I said self Ive seen this before , PO had 42” blades installed, if he thought it mowed good before he would really think it mows good after I put 48” blades on it . BTW put some wheel spacers on it, will show in a thread in restoration forum.

Ok Ed, you asked for it! 🤣 IMG_4058.mov

Trying to organize my spare tires/wheels, moved some into the new shed this evening. Left all my crummy tires and wheels in my old tarp shed.

Painted some WH rear wheel weights and some JD front weights red today.

Doing an 8 speed gear oil change..easier to just remove the trans right