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Fountain Pen Day takes place on the first Friday in November, so it’s on November 7 this year. It started in 2012 and is a day set aside to specially embrace and promote the use of fountain pens and the enjoyment of writing in general. The day is supported by many businesses and organizations worldwide, and it is common for supporting businesses to hold offers and promotions either on or leading up to the day. The point of the day is to emphasize the beauty of writing with elegant tools and the joy of creative writing in style. The earliest form of a fountain pen was used by the ancient Egyptians, in 3,000 B.C. These were called styluses. They used reed straw to write with ink made from vegetable gum and soot. These were called ‘dip pens’ because of the way they were dipped in the ink. Over many centuries ‘reservoir pens’ were developed — pens that held their ink. These came into use from the year 953, and throughout the 17th and 18th centuries, mentions were made of metal writing pens. To begin with, chisels were used to mark stones. Then the Egyptians used bits of papyrus reed to mark out the shapes of cuneiform, or bits of charcoal to mark words on pieces of birch bark or leaf. Eventually, ink was created using various types of plant matter and even iron. Ink now required new tools for application, and quills — large stiff feathers from birds’ wings or tails — were used. Writers wrote with a carefully cut nib to draw up the ink and transfer it to paper. This could be quite messy, so blotting paper was used to tidy up any ink splashes. Over time, the need arose for a more efficient means to put ink to paper, and in 1636, the fountain pen was designed by Petrache Poenaru from Romania. He combined a reservoir of ink with a metal nib that didn’t require being recut constantly.

Finally got some weather where it wasn.t so windy and painted the 308.

Too much wind today to do leave patrol again so decided to clean up the B80 and to finally put on the anti skid I had laying around . She cleans up pretty nice I think

Keep sealer away from this hydro and every other hydro you may run across

Many Wheel Horse manual transmissions have been running with old, water-contaminated oil for many years, even decades. My opinion is that any fresh transmission oil is better than that. Though the Uni-drive transmission is not bulletproof, it's pretty close.

Agreed... the second greatest offender is the doofus that insists on speed shifting one of these while in motion. Then they wonder why it pops out of high gear...

Thanks guys much appreciated.

1 - Does not sound like you are over stressing the machine at all. 2 - Filling through the dip stick hole is what I do. If you drop a small hose in the hole while filling, this will let the air out so that it does not bubble back on you. 3 - 2 quarts is a little over full but not a huge deal. 4 - The heat generated in the manual tranny is not that significant. The foaming may just be inherent of the type of oil. My fav is Lucas 80-90w. But most heavy oils would be a good choice. When you drain the old oil out, you should raise the front of the tractor as far as you safely can. There is a hump in the bottom of the tranny that prevents about a cup of oil from being able to drain out.

Weatherman says there may be snow this weekend. Not sure I believe hime, but figured since it was close to 60 degrees today, it was a good day to clean the snow pusher!

This is something I posted before which describes the original idea of making this particular plane about 38 years ago. There is also the first prototype which resides now in my son’s house along with a large part of the family’s tools I already passed on. The second prototype I still use today.

My question is, "How do they actually fly? "

Straight from the back burner, I have been tinkering with this 520H. I bought an orbital steering valve from 19richie66 and decides to modify the 520 to power steering. I seen a thread a while ago were someone added steering to a 518. Figured that would be a nice side project if I came across a reasonably priced steering valve. I wanted to keep it looking the same and tucked in the column. It was a little tricky with a mix of face seal and jic piping. Picked up some face seal fitting from MMC and silver soldered to the steel pipe. For now it is on ice, next will be the front axle mod to accept the steering cylinder. Absolutely don't need a 520H with power steering but I like to build things and keeps me out of the Mrs. cross-hairs. Used the c120 and old deck belt to test run. front view

Added front blade:

Finished fitting new to me front blade on the C-125. With back blade it's my secondary and touch up snow rig.

Next comes the task of going through all piercings. Tedious work still staying away from the lines . Real tight or small areas require extreme patience and sometimes customized tools. Many outwardly pointed areas are also fragile at this point. Also important to stay perpendicular to face of board and not dig in through board thickness.

3 to 5 years absolute max. I'd be looking for different shop....

I am sure that @ebinmaine can add more on this. Over time, the additives in oil break down and loose their exxectiveness. That includes the anti-foaming agent.....

Another project going on here simultaneously with the yoke is another batch of hand planes .I just get bored with myself and am always looking at something else to start, always having at least two things going at the same time. This is a batch of 39 planes which are my signature tool and used to be carried many years ago by a prominent tool company in NYC. I have made quite a few of these in the past and it’s something I always enjoyed. Why 39 asked my oldest grandson. Well, I think 40 would put me over the edge and discourage me. With very few exceptions all the work is done with hand tools. The exceptions are due to the quantity being made so it expedites things a bit, otherwise ye olde shoppe gets backed up. I have been at it for a little while and I will demonstrate the process as I go along.

swapped some Deestone 8.50's for some Carlisle 8.50's raised rear of tractor a little over an inch.

Took the 60” off and cleaned/oiled it and wrestled my new to me 44” two stage on now just gotta weight the rear down and hope it wards off any snow lol

Tools Tools Tools! I plan on starting to hoe out some stuff soon and putting it on Marketplace. Duplicates. Air tools, Metric swivel impact sockets, Flare line wrenches and the like. Stuff I haven't used in in years and don't apply to working on these tractors. I'm going to be 67 in a few months. Once I hit 70 I hope to downsize even more so my wife and son don't have to deal with it

Not to mention a cracked hood stand where it connects to the frame

Firstly, the new regulator may well have had a residue on the contacts that caused the initial problem. I’m betting you didn’t think you’d need to clean them when you did the install. If that is the case, you’ve now cleaned them and you won’t see the issue again! So, to testing: 1. Tractor in neutral, wheels chocked, and regulator cover off. 2.. BRIEFLY tap the left coil’s contact arm to close it. Left is with the external connectors toward you. You should have the S/G start to spin. This is the relay that was sticking and that we’re gonna test. 3. Step back and connect your voltmeter to the BAT connector on the regulator (usually the middle of the three, but double check) and to ground. You should see the battery’s voltage, 12.5 or so. 4. Start the engine and let it run at high idle for a minute or so. The voltage on the VOM should go up into the 14+ range and not more than 15-ish. 5. idle the engine. Voltage should drop to the battery voltage after a few seconds. 6. Ok now we want to see the left relay do its thing switching from “S” to “G” when the S/G gets going fast enough. Slowly raise the engine above idle while watching the left relay. The relay should change--it should close by itself the way it did with your finger tap. If you have a helper, have them read the voltage while you watch the relay. Call out when the relay closes--the voltage should be 13.5-ish. Slow the engine and see that the relay re-opens as the voltage drops through 13 volts. 7. The relay’s spring hold the contacts open. If the relay doesn’t close until 14 or more volts, the spring needs to be loosened. If it closes below 13.5, the spring needs to be tightened. 8. Of course, you can skip steps 1-7 and just run ‘er!

I have used straight 30w in all my Kohlers since 1993. Sometimes I used detergent, sometimes non-detergent. It doesn't seem to make any difference as long as you change it regularly. As far as temperature is concerned, the 30w in mine has worked well in all temperatures. Transmission oil should be checked for water. A transmission that lives in an unheated environment can freeze and leave you disabled until thawed.

Wheel Horse manual transmissions have straight gearing and will pretty much run on anything from motor oil to 80w-90. Using the machine to pull a cart would be considered intermittent loading. I don't think the oil temp would get much higher than ambient. Using a good oil or grease is best practice and yep there is a shelf life if unused. Nothing wrong with using the best if you can afford it. When in doubt change it, cheap insurance. I like buying my oil at places that have a lot of turn over. I am sure some folks here have gotten a tube of grease that has started to separate. After tinkering with these transmissions, water is the biggest enemy. Most gear lubes will not loose any lubrication quality up to 1%, and they have rust inhibitors in the blend. Unfortunately the WH case is not painted inside and rust will form on the inside top of the case. The case is splash lubricated and nothing coats that area. Back in the day, I used Chevron and they always had bulletins concerning their oils and greases. It was nice to have an lubrication engineer available too. But that is the big bucks game. Here is their take on oil shelf life.

And buying 10 year old unopened NOS oil at a flea market for use in any vehicle is throwing away your money...

Wow Kev it looks much better already. Keep going. Wow a steal box full of BIG blocks.

It will last you another 20 + years! Don’t be concerned about the heat… traveling at 6-7 mph tops! So, i would replace the shifter boot, the shifter boots are cracking at 20+ years! Check on ebay, that’s where i get my shifter boots. Change your oil at least once per year. I have a ‘73 Kohler 14hp/Auto (summertime lawnmower!) and that motor is tougher than a bags of hammers!

Alrighty. 1-2 Qts of HD Sae 30, And 4 qts of ATF. Picked up that exact hydro filter this morning. Thanks guys!

Took my wife in for cataract surgery this morning, now that she has a patch over her eye she is going around the house saying ARGH Shiver my timbers Yarrr and the cats won't come near her.

Realize that the word "plane" has been associated with the tool much longer than there was even the idea of an "airplane" . Having said that, yes it does fly. It glides effortlessly across the face of a board making it "flat" and in the process creating shavings to "fly" out of its throat.

It’s great to see you active Cas!

Yessir. Years ago I got into the habit of using a seven wire trailer harness to build my own tractor harnesses. Most of the wires are 14 gauge. I tend to use 12 gauge for the main power feed. I also make my own battery cables. Gauge varies a little on those.

I changed out a seat on the workhorse from a Kubota seat to a Michigan style seat. The kubota seat angled down in the front to much. Tomorrow new points and condenser in the 416 snow machine.

Yep, not a blowable snow for 10 years. So it's going to NE Ohio to take care of the snow coming off the lake. Now I can plow the sloppy wet snows we get in the warm cab.

Test fit and ran this little 3k WH genny this morning. Needs a little body work on the top cover but other then that it was complete and unmolested. It was a good find and runs good.

Took the Ber Vac off the 520 and got it loaded for the trip to its new home tomorrow.

Kevin: Isn't It Funny How All Available Spaces Tend To Be Filled Beyond Capacity For Ease Of Movement???

I'm not a fan of the new "selectable" spray cans. The function itself is nice if you need it, but the ones I have tried clog up easily after use. With the standard nozzle, you can clean them after use with good reliability if the can is stored for later use. The multi- pattern nozzles are harder to clean out and some will clog even if using solvents to clean after each use. For what I have seen at least, you're better off using the entire can once started. No amount of cleaning allows for storage and re-use after the first spray.

Depending on how tightly the manufacture adhered to the standards, the slope of the “V” should be different between the two sheaves which would affect the depth and the contact between the belt and the sheave wall.

@JoeM like it ! for me experimentation is a regular thing , don,t have any hydro anything , but can relate to the piping set up . like trying to improve / remove repetitive issues . your side view pictures , did it for me , often refer to roller stooling around a set up , while trying something , makes it much easier, like to change over a plow and frame set up , that way , 2 milk crates hold the frame / plow at close to original set up height , yet you are free , to swap out and detail linkage rods , improve functional detailing, once swapped out improved , you can easily make it effortlessly swing and move , the swing quadrant squeeze lever , runs the entire show . grand son is slotting a golf ball size , palm grip metal push / pull point , he builds welds truck frames . stay at it , pete

Cool, @ebinmaine why not just have the paint Gloss? In my experience the spray cans should work well, and since it’s not a special color, matching it when there is a big chip or scratch should be easy. I’d also look at the ACE brand spray cans. It seemed to dry faster and harder than the Rustoleum. I’ve had good luck with using implement paint as well.

Tranny hold 5 qts if completely emptied out. 4 is usually enough for a change. Dex/Merc Wix 51410 filter

If remember right. My regulators have the 3 coil set up inside, this would include the current limiter coil. If a regulator does not have a current limiter there will only be 2 coils.

Yes regulator is the cause, The only way the gen spins on it's own is to power up the Armature, and since the key is off the only way for this to happen is a back feed from the regulator. The regulator is connected to the battery on the center terminal.

Canned pumpkin pales when compared to the real thing. The texture of canned pumpkin is like eating paste whereas the real pumpkin pie has a texture. This past weekend we entertained my wife's family. I helped by making the pies. She made the rasin pie but I made the chocolate pie, apple pie- from mom's canned apples and cherry pie from cherries I gathered last summer. I made the homemade crusts from scratch. Someone commented about me making pies. I told them if I can build a house, I can surely bake a pie. Happy Eating!

I got one full racking shelf opened up. My mom will be moving in to a new place soon and will be able to fit some of her totes too, so these shelves will be empty in the next week or so.

Once the plank is marked on one face one proceeds to drill through the parts that will be removed as much as possible minimizing labor in clearing them later. This is one of the most crucial operations since one has to drill it perfectly perpendicular to face of board. Opposite side will have exactly the same carved design and any small deviation in the drilling process can be catastrophic. Contrary to in the past I no longer do that on top of my bench therefor not being able to have a square standing next to the auger for reference. I started drilling it on the actual carving table which is at an angle. The previous way was taking a toll on my back from hours of leaning over bench. At the carving table I stand with a straight back all the time. This however proved to be quite difficult in maintaining auger perpendicular to board since I also could not have a square next to it as reference. For that I devised this articulated jig which will guide auger perfectly perpendicular to board and can be adjusted and moved readily through out it without being removed each time. It will work for any size auger since it guides the side of auger within the "V". One merely "taps" it to put the screw tip of auger on desired hole's centers. I have been improving it over time now adding a bronze angle as a wear strip.Sides of auger were cutting through it quickly.This has proved to work really well specially on my back. Shaded areas to be removed Drilling of shaded areas New way using jig to stay perpendicular to board at tilted table Jig slides and articulates through entire board Jig with bronze wear guides. Old way