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July 23, 1996, at the Summer Olympics in Atlanta, Georgia, the U.S. women’s gymnastics team wins its first-ever team gold. The 1996 U.S. women’s team, nicknamed the “Mag 7″ or “magnificent seven,” was made up of seven immensely talented teenaged girls: Amanda Borden, Amy Chow, Dominique Dawes, Shannon Miller, Dominique Moceanu, Jaycie Phelps and Kerri Strug. The team entered the Summer Olympics with the expectations of an entire country heaped on their young shoulders. They were considered America’s best shot ever at an Olympic team gold, something no American women’s gymnastics team had ever won. The American women’s best finish to that point had been a silver at the 1984 Los Angeles Olympics.

Not a directly behind pic but close enough for guberment work.

Likely just a spare as I have a dedicated mowing 520H (with a 16 Onan on it), my 520HC is the snow plow tractor, and another 520H is set up for the two stage blower. I have 10 tractors now with most of them restored (my wife thinks I'm crazy).

No clutch plate on that. Drive belt could be slipping or it could be an axle hub which could be damaging the axle so you'll need to narrow down where the slippage is. Most likely a worn drive belt. Look to see if the pulley on the transaxle is turning when it happens. If that pulley isn't turning, it's the belt. If it's turning, look to see if one of the axles is spinning in the wheel hub.

Could be said by nearly all of us. In short sir, you are not alone!

Worst piece of wood I ever tried to finish It was constantly fuzzy trying to sand it and possibly contaminated veith oil or Cosmoline. I used gel stain on it but it looked too much like paint . I used Danish oil on it and that made it some better but still not great. Finally after a couple of coats dried in I applied more and used 800 grit to take off the high and fill in the low. At least it's reasonably smooth and is sealing up well. Wood like this stains like a photo negative with the grain light and the field dark. Chinese Sks stock .

Big trash night score tonight... Picked up down the street with the A-60 and the trailer... Owner says ran when parked... we'll see. Motor spins freely.

Wiener mobile!!! This is one of the trucks I've piloted recently. We're taking some old scrap metal racks to recycling.

Just found this thread so here’s some. Mostly sunsets.

I worked the Troy-bilt assembly line, on Both the Horse and Pony models back in early 80s. Troy-bilt was a good company till MTD bought them out and they moved out of Troy N.Y. The guy who makes DR mowers first worked at Troy-bilt then moved on to start his own business.

a little past sunrise.

It’s OFFICIAL, @ebinmaine gets the award for “Sunrise with the most power lines in it” Congratulations Eric!👍🏻Good job 👍🏻😂😂

I dragged this machine home last summer and figured I might as well begin work on it. This is what I am starting with. It had no carb so I got a cheap china carb for it and it will start by jumping the solenoid as the wiring has issues. Hydro seems strong and engine runs quiet and as smooth as a single cylinder can.

You know when Cleat ties into a tractor it's done right!

Wide rear of a 1974 C160-8 with OTR Lawn Trac tires and a bonus super old seed spreader. Sneak peak of a @76c12091520h trailer hitch too!

Just realizing I’m the last one who posted a picture, basically the same.

Fixed it for you.

Snapped this cool picture today! 1445 Auto, Allis Chalmers WD45, and 57 Pontiac Star Chief I call it “Generational Wealth”

Well, I found out why the tractor needed the solenoid jumped to start it. The battery connection terminal on the ignition switch is corroded completely. Here is the old connector for the ignition switch. New connector installed. The other connectors are in decent shape and will easily clean up. Since the indicator board is completely corroded as well, I decided to simply eliminate it and all it's associated wiring in the harness. I also eliminated the seat switch and associated relays etc. The neutral switch is gone as well since I will be installing a self centering foot control. Here is the harness as pulled. Here is the harness cleaned up and simplified. Here is the harness ready to be installed. I hooked it up to a battery and plugged in a new ignition switch, low oil relay, PTO switch, and 2 new fuses and tested all functions. Everything works perfectly including grounding the magneto for shutdown (yes, I do have the correct magneto ignition switch).

Tractor is mostly torn apart. Frame, engine and rear end have preliminary degreasing done. Don't mind the yellow wheels, they are just for moving the tractor around. Wagon load of parts. These are all cleaned up and ready for bead blasting and/or sanding.

My son has a 310-8. The year is 1987. The main drive clutch works fine on flat ground but if you try to go up a hill, the tractor gets stuck. I was thinking the clutch plate is slipping. Do you think that is correct? An addition, would that just be tightening the drive clutch to prevent the slipping? If so, how do you do that? Thanks again for all your help. By the way my son is 11 and he loves his Wheelhorse Tractor.

Just to be clear, the PTO ( power take off ) clutch is only used to power the deck. The tractor drive wheels are powered by a different belt that drives the tranasxle. This drive belt is engaged by a spring loaded idler pulley that is disengaged when the clutch pedal is depressed. As stated above, there are several problems that could cause this drive line to lose power. I would connect the rear of the tractor to a tree or vehicle and then put the tractor in 3rd gear and gently engage the clutch while a second person watches the transmission pulley and belt. If the belt is moving and the input pulley is turning but the tractor wheels are not turning, the input pully key or one of the wheel axle keys may be missing or damaged. If the belt is not moving, the belt may be worn or the idler pulley belt tensioner spring may be broken. Read this thread to get a good understanding how the tractor drive train operates .310-8 Clutch Problem - Transmissions and transaxles - RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum

Yes they were. I worked on two earlies for customers and they were built! Heavy but built. Nice score Sylvia

@SylvanLakeWH Judging by that model Briggs I’d say that tiller is from the late eighties, back when those Troy Builts were still made to last. A while ago I saw one of those but it was the “newer style”, it looked like Chinese crap with a Troy-Built label on it. The original Troy-Built Horse and the smaller model, the Pony were like Wheel Horses, made to last a lifetime with proper maintenance.

They all say that!

If my wife comments on the number of Wheel Horses I have I just go to her sewing room and she knows I don't have as many as shew has sewing machines. Looking forward to the "clean up". Who are you kidding; it will be another 100% restoration.

The leak down test indicated rings on both cylinders. I am going to proceed with the partial rebuild and let you know how it works out. Thanks for your help. Regards, Bull

I am not sure about small engines, but in general I have found it to be exceedingly rare to have the actual part numbers stamped or cast into the part. They are usually stamping numbers that reference the die or mold used to make the part, or an engineering number that can be converted into a part number with the correct reference material.

Yes, tubi has some of the best old movies and shows that I enjoy. Last movie I watched the other night was “Earth vs the flying saucers.” Why pay for bad new tv when you can watch the good old hits for free .

I chopped that 9 pin right out of there. Used 2 4 flat trailer plug kits with long pigtails. Marked them "A" and "B" changed 1 wire at a time and documented what circuit when onto what pin in what connector. Move the whole thing to the other side of the tractor away from the heat.

Ok couple thoughts. There is very little clearance even with original coupling. Also my hose comes straight up and is held by a fabric strap to the right side of the frame. MVI_1579.MOV

Excellent work on the wiring harness, Cleat. I like the way you do things. I made up a bunch of harnesses in my shop wiring local agency police cars for emergency lights and radios. Later I worked 13 years for Virginia State Police doing the same thing. I must have used miles of electrical tape and nylon conduit. I always used the best grade wire and high temp conduit in my shop, due to the customer use (and abuse).

You are in wheel Horse Mecca. Lots members there. I am sure you can find some one close by to help.

That's exactly what I was gonna suggest to. Always contact Brian Badman first!

The plate isn't a stop it ties the two side pieces together for strength. It may be reversible but it is on there correctly now. Your fitting seems to stick out a bit further than the original as on my D200.

Actually it’s a cool story. Pics of the truck?

Well I went ahead and put a Farmall cub seat on my 10-8. Old seat was trashed and rotted so I had this. And I can put an aftermarket cover on it at some point.

Couple pics of the 1973 8 HP 4 speed we've been working on with its owner @Natejc_98 Should be ready for a test drive!

Well that narrows it down to 99% of the guys ...

Early June morning Sunrise in Greencastle,Indiana!

Hello, Had a pulley in my Mule Drive self disassemble. I have a 520H and looked in the parts manual and the Mule Drive isn't in there, my mower deck PN is either "C560SC01" OR "10525" which I was also unable to find a parts manual for. I would imagine I need to replace the shaft, as the race is pretty marred. The pulley itself doesn't seem to have damage but if I'm buying everything I might as well replace it. A secondary question would be why it broke. I have noticed that my PTO will kick off while mowing a lot, especially when mowing in taller grass too fast. So I just turned in the PTO adjustment a turn (maybe every other week this year) until this broke this weak. What would be a good way to get the PTO adjustment and Mule adjustment where I'm aligned and tightened properly? Thanks for the help.