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Thank you all ! This is the first chance I've had to check in on my family . 61 years old & still working too much, but it keeps me going & the 's happy too. You guys are the best!

No need to buy a .010 over Piston when you really need a .030 over when the cylinder wall finally cleans up. Ditto for the Connecting Rod. And the Machine Shop needs those parts in hand first after measuring, but before removing metal....

So I bought this tractor roughly three weeks ago. Not running and trans completely locked. Getting it on the trailer was a lot of fun. Got it home, pushed it in the barn and figured I wasn’t going to get anywhere with it for a little while. Well one night I randomly decided I was gonna pull the carb and clean it. Brought it to work and took it apart. None of the gaskets tore but I did find basically sand or god knows what in the bowl. Threw it in the ultrasonic for a few hours, didn’t have any new gaskets at the time so I figured just to find out if it would run I just slapped the carb back together with the old gaskets and threw it back on the engine. Ran new fuel line and filter. Put a small amount of gas in the tank and it finally fired, took a little to fill the bowl and re-prime the pump.

I'm not a slob and oil the prefilter and no mess. I also have a spare for each size. Take out the dirty, oil up a clean one and put it in. Clean up the old one and put it in the cabinet after it dries for the next time

I don't think Colossus will fit on that table!

Perfect thank you! I will potentially be running my 42” mower. I will mostly be using the Allis knock off to mow since that’s really all I can do with it. My 120 will eventually run a tiller and it runs the blower in the winter. This will get busted out every once in a while to mow just to scratch the WH itch. Otherwise it’s just for plowing snow or plowing a garden when I get a Brinly plow.

Depends upon what you got planned to run off PTO. Personally I very seldom, if any ever had to replace the long needle bearings. Mainly the seal and thrust bearing if it feels rough or sloppy. Seal fer sure. Clean & re-grease is the main thing. It's amazing how long they (thrust bearing) last but if your gonna mow hard yes replace it. Yes 80/90 in tranny.

Nothing wrong with that. Some of my favorite tractors were exactly the same.

Do not order anything until the engine is torn down and crank. And cylinder bore is measured.

I do that exact same thing. Last summer was dry and dusty so I had to do that every other mowing. I give it a light spray with crown oil in an aerosol can. The pre-filter gets very dirty but the main filter stays clean. I have been using the same one in my mowing tractor for years.

You will need 2 quarts. Not that it will take that to fill it - put in 1-1/2 and read the dipstick. Top Off to suit. A drinking straw down alongside the funnel will vent it as you pour if using the dipstick tube to fill...

I do inspect nipples regularly. Only had the dash light come on one time on a 520H. I pulled the air filter and at first glance it appeared almost new. Putting a bright light inside showed it was rather clogged. That tells me that the oiled pre-filter was doing a super job and closer inspection of the air filter is necessary, the 20 HP engine uses enough gas without restricting the air intake. Maybe that is part of the reason so many claim that the Onans are gas hogs.

Thank you that was last years project. It’s a Simplicity 5212 that I did as an Allis look-a-like. Previous owner swapped in an 18hp Briggs. Im not sure if it was water or just stuck in gear. The second I let the clutch out it moved so I’m assuming it was just stuck. Regardless I will be doing a drain and flush.

Finally the tractor is 100% usable but not 100% done so there will be more to come. Right now it’s being used as the snowplow when I don’t have enough snow to use the 120 with the blower. It’s gonna get all the main sheet metal pulled in the spring and going to get just a quick scuff and shoot and new decals hence the “Budget Resto”. Don’t want it to be too nice that I’m afraid to use it lol. Then the 120 will be next on the docket but that’s just paint.

Not as bad as oil filters ... Gotta pull the trigger on the right ones. Wadda you go to the Pullstart school of just ain't right?? Not a squeaky filter in the house ... No never supposed to blow out air filters except for maybe the shop vac. Guys to to blow out furnace air filters but all that does is loosen it up to get sucked through, Little known fact ... a filter catches smaller particles the dirtier it gets. The holes air must pass through get smaller and smaller till it won't pass air at all. That's when that dash light won't come on because the nipple broke off the back of the sensor ...

Next was the blade angle lever. Because this doesn’t have the separate clutch and brake pedal like my 77 C120, the different foot board wouldn’t allow me to pull handle past the center position. Cut a small notch and now the lever has full range of motion.

I use them and use the foam filter treatment I used to use on my dirt bike air filter. That stuff works great and doesn't make a mess in the air cleaner housing

In my mind, better in the filter and filter housing than the engine. Easier to clean a little mess than to rebuild an engine.

I always do. The amount of crap it catches is proof positive that it works. Never any residual in the housing... I guess I have to ask why wouldn't you? So what if it's a bit messy. Am i missing something?

My sons bought small spacers for his tractor, last night I installed one side. Had to remove the hub set screw and replace with a 1/4” shorter one so that the two bolts heads wouldn’t hit. The 7/16 x 20 x 2” bolts can be a pain to find.

Anyone know a guy like Earl?

Who actually does this? I know what the book says but when you do it it seems to make a mess of the air box collecting more dirt no matter how much you squeeze the excess out.

Oh man... Please... no photos... Don't encourage the local wildlife...

If they are too long to be able to tighten them, just remove the last cross chain so you can tighten them.

Buy as big of ultrasonic as you can afford. Mine came from Walmart online, not stocked in store.

We have a 702, 854, 1257, and a 63 Lawn Ranger the was k181 swapped and we don't think there is enough room in between the metal cover piece and the filter for a foam element.

Unfortunately I’m unaware of anywhere near me that has ethanol free. I at least only run premium in all my small engines (yeah still has ethanol) but I also don’t let anything I have with an engine sit for really more than 2-3 weeks without running just to keep things moving. I’ve honestly never used an ultrasonic to clean a carb until now. I’ve always used super clean to soak everything then carb clean and compd air to blow everything out. I threw this into the ultrasonic at work during lunch and let it soak for 4 hours. Needless to say between the tractors and the snowmobiles i need to invest in one lol.

Most likely dried ethanol crap. W e recommend using ethanol free gas. I love my ultrasonic.

Yes going for early 20th century. I'm going for three roof lines. The front "office" flat, the middle rounded with exposed brick, and the "addition" peaked roof with stucco type covering over brick and some brick exposed where stucco has fallen off. To color the brick, I have three colors of "brickish" colored paint. I dab a little on a small brush and pretty much paint each brick. Below is a picture I found on computer that gave me the inspiration of tracks between builds and the walkway. I'm planning on covered the sidewalk/loading dock. Haven't given much thought about the building across the tracks--maybe rusty metal. Haven't thought about a water tower. I've got one that is in memory of my brother on another part of the track. I used his initials as the name of the water district and his ham radio call sign for the telephone number. My layout has family members owning businesses or headstones in the graveyard. Behind these building along the back of the layout I've got an are about 10" wide by a couple of feet long that I'd like to make and industry with smoke stacks, pipes running between buildings but that will be another winter project for another year. I'm beginning to collect different items that I can use for the piping and smoke stacks--straws, packaging materials whatever I can find that may fit the diorama.

Perfect thank you I appreciate it.

Pull the trans dipstick - if the fluid is all amber / clear - good. If is tan / white, it has water in it. Remember you need to elevate the front of the tractor about a foot to allow all the fluid to get over the internal hump in the bottom of the case to drain... Bill

If it sits for a while to give the oil/water time to separate and you remove the drain plug from the left rear of the transmission bottom water will come out first if there is any. Lift the front of the tractor so the oil ahead of the hump in the transmission also gets drained.

Frozen water in it? Been there done that. Time to drain and flush. Nice Allis ther ...

Got it running then it was time for the trans. Had no idea what condition it was in just that it wouldn’t roll and the shifter was in neutral. While running I put it in reverse and let the clutch out and it went backwards. I then ran it through all the gear and hi-lo range and it worked perfectly. I decided it was a good time to throw the plow on even though the handle wouldn’t lock in the up position. After days of juicing the handle down the button still wouldn’t pop up on its own. Took the handle and rock shaft out and found the lock block to be cockeyed in its track causing it to jam. Separated it from the button rod and put a small bend in the rod to match the contour of the handle and it worked perfectly.

For many years (decades) pre-filters were never used and nobody thought a thing about it. I have no problem not using the foam at all for that reason. I see the pre-filter as just that. Used for stopping the frog size chunks from getting to the real filter. It works well for me, for that purpose.

As I said, I never oil it. After every mowing I'll at least knock off the crud it catches. Every few mowings I'll remove the paper filter and tap it clean. I figure the paper filter is all a lot of engines get and it works fine. The pre-filter just catches a bunch before it gets to the main filter. Even without oil.

I do as @lynnmor does. No mess in the air box but plenty of fines on the prefilter. Dawn dish soap and warm water easily clean the foam, I squeeze the foam dry in paper towels and let it air dry a day or so before oiling with the same oil I put in the crankcase.

I always throw the prefilter away.........

We usually do this on our Cub Cadet as it has a prefilter but the Wheel horses don't.

I follow the instructions on the label so the fine dust gets trapped. After oiling the foam work it in, then remove the excess by repeatedly squeezing the foam with paper towels layered in. With no oil you will not trap anything but the large particles, the paper filters are getting expensive and blowing tiny holes in them with compressed air is not a wise move.

You may be the only one. Well, maybe oily Pete.

I never do for the same reason.

By the time you rounded up the wheels, ratchet gears if needed basket and frame, and any other parts it is missing you would be better buying a new one.

I'm inclined to agree with Earl. My pickup is 34 years old. Everything works as it should. Personal property tax was $5.42 for 2025. It's a good deal cheaper to repair than wife's ten year old Durango. I actually like it's simplicity. Wife usually locates and pushes on her touch screen two, three or more buttons before backing out of garage. I paid about $3,500 for it ten years ago with 180K miles. I've kept records of all expenses (other than consumables such as tires, motor oil and fuel) and have spent $3,000 including the last major oil seal repairs I posted a couple of weeks ago at it's current 235K miles.

ah yep. not paying 100,000 for a flagship that my 05 Ford 4x4 can do. No trade in value, no private party value. Dents dings scratches. replaced darn near everything probably three times Dang if I could find something older. No real rust here so it must exist.

Supposed to get above freezing and start raining. Got Murphy about six years ago. First time in the snow. Gotta admit I would have loved to spend time with him and a plow. Dunno about the rest of us in N.C. Cannot justify a plow... Although my driveway is gravel.. Hmm After shoveling 4 previous neighbors and two current neighbors I made the perilous journey to check on my plants. Baby space heater. Now power no plants. I need to find an affordable generator. Food, replaceable. Pipes freeze I can fix. Plants are replaceable as well however some of mine are priceless and some of my oldest relationships. Ex. I have a bay leaf that I rooted from a cutting. Real pita. It is @ebinmaine tall now and just fits in the center. Almost planted it this spring. One cold year in my time here. Glad I trusted myself. It would likely come back from the ground. The top would have certainly perished. Avocado tree I moved here from NE 13 years ago. Should be at about tree puberty this year. Long post Sorry

Drove around in the snow. It'll be gone by Wednesday, so I had to play a little.

Finally getting back to some work on my 522xi. About a week or so ago I feathered, primed, and sanded all of the rusty and flaky spots on the fender, and then re-primed and re-sanded it. Here it is in progress: I spent most of the past few days trying to learn the basics of Blender software (any Blender users here?), which has a considerable learning curve that makes my brain hurt a bit, so I needed to take a break today. This afternoon I painted the underside of the fender. I'll let it cure for a few days before flipping it over and painting the top. I hope to put it back together and get the snowblower installed in time for spring.