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e Delivered the 314A to a new owner today. The young lady was in dire need of a tractor to do the first mowing.

My neighbor takes care of two gardens. The one shown in the video and one twice as large in my yard (in photos). I found him a good deal on a nice tiller complete with all the idler pulleys. He couldn't be happier!

April 20, 2008 Danica Patrick driving for Andretti Green Racing wins the Indy Japan 300 at Twin Ring Motegi; first female driver in history to win an IndyCar Series race.

Good! Sick of looking at that through my windows (just kidding, no windows on that side of the house)

When doing static timing I prefer to use a battery powered contanuity test light. Seeme like I respond more quickly to the light than a buzzer, when I hear a buzzer I look for the snooz button.

Back rims are painted for the diesel it All most done

When I hear a buzzer, either I think a boiler is in alarm or the brownies are ready to come out of the oven!

More thoughts assuming the pressure and flow is the same on both sides of the piston. 1. the extending stroke generates more force than the retracting stroke 2. the rod is in compression during the extending stroke 3. the rod is more subject to bending when in compression 4. the single stage rod can be nearly as large as the piston as very little force is required to retract the piston 4. the dual stage requires the rod to be much smaller than the piston to generate a working force when retracting.

@wallfish @Sparky John had bought a doodle bug from Zagrays to screw around with... I stored it for a bit and Sunday he gets to take it home from the Belltown Tractor Show. Has a Tecumseh 16 OHV... so it will never run!! Lol sorry Bill!!!

At my Dad’s plant, it was flashlights. They’d go home in a hip pocket and “forget” to come back to work in the morning. Eventually, after “losing” more than 2 per year, you had to buy a new one--suddenly losses stopped. Also, to get fresh batteries, you had to turn in the old ones (which had been stamped with the company logo when issued) -- another supply line item cost trimmed. My fave is the apocryphal story of the guy who left the construction site every Friday with a wheelbarrow load of gravel. After a couple of months, the gate guard, now curious, wanted to know what the fellow was doing with all the gravel. The reply? “Gravel, heck, I’ve been stealing wheelbarrows.”

Been using these for quite a few years now. About $12.00/4. I can change a lot of bearings and still be ahead but I haven't had to yet.

You need to have the points break open on the " S " mark and not the " T " Otherwise the timing will be late.

I get ours from Aircraft Spruce & Specialty. They have several types of valves, grommets, and the good quality electric fuel pumps available. Pricing is excellent. Service as well.

BC you are now in @Pullstart’s realm! 🫡 I’m guessing that is at least 150 kilos over the Ranger’s recommended max load.

Five hour drive to the band saw location for an 8:00 am load, my poor Ranger.

The "export" 518H models had the Eaton 1100 hydros, which are much more rugged than the domestic-equipped 700 series. If the tractors have hydraulic lift (no manual lift arm), and a oil filter under the rear fender, then they are 1100 series hydros.

I never liked the hydro on the steering column. May have liked it more if it wasn't so sloppy and that "push down" to reverse. I made quite a few changes to my 523H ergonomics- made my own foot control and raised the steering wheel a couple inches. It fits me much better. But it was alot of fabrication for what it was. Sometimes, you gotta let a machine go that isn't working out. Better for someone else to enjoy it that for it to not get used.

I had several with the control on the steering column and could never get used to it. I added foot control to all my Eaton 1100s.

There is a good chance the belt charts are wrong for this 78345 deck. Some of the columns are shifted up or down - forget which Correct belts Drive belt 102742 replaced by 94-2501 (1/2" x 103") Spindle belt 6738 (1/2" x 86")

Where are the rocks ?? When I till here the poor tiller bounces up and down violently.

Especially if you end up damaging the spindle or wheel when a cheap bearing fails.

@FLtractor Take a peek at these offerings by Redo. I used one on the Indy. METAL DASH PLATE DECALS - Redo Your Horse

Go ahead and buy a good quality bearing. A year from now you won't remember what it cost but if you buy the cheapest ones you will discover they weren't such a bargin when you are having to replace them.

Been using these guys for quite a few years now. About $12.00/4. I can change out a lot of bearings and still be ahead but they are holding up great and haven't needed to. Excellent quality that their price doesn't reflect.

Looonng first post.... LOTS to write.... For several years we've been considering an upgrade to our old wood splitter. It's a very well (re)built decades old unit that was home shop rebuilt in 2012 by a local logger. After 14 seasons of splitting it's understandably getting tired. We started a thread here, got some great info. We researched on other sites and spoke to our favorite small engine repair place. We decided that it would need the entire hydraulic system replaced and a new larger engine to meet the goals. Not at all opposed to this but it would easily cost $2,000 +. While doing research online we found a couple dual action splitters. Very intriguing. We started a thread on that here: ..... And again learned some great information along with creating some additional thought processes. We decided to get the Boss model over the HF model because of several factors. 1. Kohler engine on the Boss. 2. Too many pivot/ wear points on the HF. 3. Hydraulic control lever is centered on the Boss vs one sided operation in the HF. This is a very convenient feature for Trina in particular because she's prone to jumping around wherever the workload can be accomplished the best. 4. Overall frame strength and build quality appears better on the Boss than the HF according to multiple online sources. 5. The Boss is certified for road towing. The HF is not. (We'll visit that below) The new Boss splitter arrived this week. Overall it looks good. I agree with #4 above. The welds are solid. The frame is good thick steel. The cylinder is encapsulated in a square slider tube which is encapsulated in the frame. Purely a flat surface sliding design with no bearings. @Ed Kennell Grease will be applied. Often. @peter lena North American design but made in china. Build quality is reasonable except for a few things. The trailer tongue mount is too narrow for the main frame. We had to use washers to set the tongue to one side and add longer bolts to the other side. I WOULD NOT tow this unit on the road the way it's sent. IMHO it was not safe. That - quite frankly - pi$$ed me off. This side is flush. This side is not. See the space difference... Now imagine trying to "tighten" that enough to close the space using low quality hardware... or even great quality hardware. Not happening buster. The entire hardware package is the unfortunate cheap trash we see all too often on cheap items. Nut & bolt head sizes are inconsistent (WTH??) and lacking quality. I upgraded several bolts, added washers, and replaced the disgustingly lightweight axle castle nuts with better quality pieces. We were unable to drive the steel press fit axle dust caps in so we popped the plastic ones back on. This is fine unless/until we ever need to road tow it. The axle inner seal surface isn't even properly machined. If this was going to be towed often or long distance it would eat seals. Fast. After using it for only a few minutes it's developed an issue already. Like many splitters, It has a two stage hydraulic system. When the pressure reaches a certain level the system changes from high speed low pressure to low speed high pressure. This one WAS working like that. Now it starts high speed. Goes low speed and stays there. Shut it off and move the lever to release system pressure. Restart and repeat. I'm hoping it's an adjustment, not a defective part. We've run some decent sized beech wood through it. That went well. Power level seems good. We're thinking it should be faster though. That may be related to the above issue or possibly because it's new and needs to break in. Or.... it's just slower than we hoped. Again, overall I believe it'll be a good addition once the bugs are worked out. The work habits obviously are very different from a single action to this dual action. The fact that one can use both directions is very nice. Very weird at first too. Once a different and properly adjusted set of habits is developed we can see a new kind of usefulness. We did get the additional cross piece to split horizontally. It has its place but also has its challenges. The second split is nice IF the pieces of wood separate correctly. Because we use a lot of beech wood, that isn't practical much of the time. I'll document repairs and changes in this thread. Some changes we figured on making even before purchase, no matter what splitter we got. 1. Wheel size, tongue height & length increase. The OE tires are 4.00/4.80 x 8. Seems most splitters are standard at that. I'd likely add a set of 5 lug hubs and increase to a full size tire like we did on the other splitter. Tongue height and length will be adjusted to level and to compensate for the additional table length..(Next comment) 2. Larger flat work table. As you can see in the last picture above there are small catch shelves on the sides. The principal is good. The upward angle is actually a bit of a challenge to work with. The wood pieces want to fall back into the work area. Remember gravity? We're thinking about adding a much larger, flat work table to catch the pieces on both sides. Start the split. Set one half aside. Work with the other. Have plenty of space to move the shrinking pieces around and off the table.

If you need to hold the front with pliers, wrap it with several layers of duct tape ti prevent damage.

That's where I start but have been known to spearmint and try different settings just to see if I can make them run/start a little better.

No manufacture or casting numbers for identification, definitely not a Crescent Band saw, I have identified the purpose of the cantilevered weight. In addition the saw is fitted with the Wright blade guides. A dynamic damper on a wood band saw—often referred to in the context of high-performance or industrial saws (like the Behringer HBE Dynamic series) or in specialized DIY modifications—is a mechanism designed to reduce blade vibration and stabilize the saw blade directly at the point of cutting. While standard wood band saws use simple guides, a system with a dynamic damper offers superior stability, particularly for high-speed cutting or when using thinner blades for heavy resawing tasks, resulting in higher precision and reduced blade breakage Perhaps the weight hanging by the cable also has something to do with absorbing vibrations.

sweet dreams

Makes troublesooting soooooooooooo easy, the problem is the BLACK wire, can't go wrong.

Just use pliers on it. It will come off. Be careful not to use pliers on the front or it will scar it a bit. Sometimes it's easier if you remove the four screws hold the dash panel on. You will get more maneuverability

With the "Ejector Seat" lever on the lower left!!

Here is a shaker mount K bolted direct to frame. Spacers are the same ones used in a 8hp shaker mount plus 3 washers... No belt guard mods needed

Finally able to wrap this project up. Well, almost. will get into that at the end of this post. First we'll take a look back at where I started. And finally some pictures after a few hours work. Thanks for following along. Sure looks purty, just wish I could get it running right. I spent a fair amount of time trying different things with the engine today, but I just can't seem to get it to run good at high RPMs. Been a while since I've had an engine kick my but like this. I know that I have to be missing something, just wish that some type of epiphany would hurry up & hit me.

So I pulled the trigger on the bearings @Achto posted since i have a set to paint. They look pretty good ... fairly tight and only maybe a couple thou of wiggle. Picked a seal and yah very little grease in them so they will get repacked with greasy Pete.

All the 500-series hydros, to my knowledge, used an open, 8-pinion differential with 1.125” axles. There are no obvious or common weaknesses anywhere in the differential--these are overbuilt for any normal usage of a Wheel Horse tractor. Of course, the filter and oil should be maintained per the manual and usage. Bearings can wear and seals can deteriorate with age but both are available from vendors here. So too, the actuator cam and follower on the hydrostatic motor that controls direction and speed. Tous les hydros de la série 500, à ma connaissance, utilisaient un différentiel ouvert à 8 pions avec des essieux de 1,125 pouces. Il n'y a pas de faiblesses évidentes ou communes nulle part dans le différentiel - celles-ci sont surdimensionnées pour toute utilisation normale d'un tracteur Wheel Horse. Bien sûr, le filtre et l'huile doivent être entretenus conformément au manuel et à l'utilisation. Les roulements peuvent s'user et les joints peuvent se détériorer avec l'âge, mais les deux sont disponibles auprès des fournisseurs ici. Il en va de suite également la came de l'actionneur et le suiveur sur le moteur hydrostatique qui contrôle la direction et la vitesse. Bonne chance, monsieur!

Brownies? Now I’m hungry.

Exported models are often different than what we see. Just a guess at what you are looking at. The D&A file has the info.

She was a good Indycar driver, but left a lot to be desired as a NASCAR driver. Way too whiny & pouty. Indy cars are weighed with the driver onboard - all fairly equal. NASCAR cars are not - 3800 pounds without the driver. There were many protests claiming that having 100 lb Danica drive was an unfair advantage compared to the good ol' boys that weighed twice as much!! She need more advantage than that!!

We were just discussing these.

Sorry yes that's what I meant to write I will edit that haha.

Buy your belts at Tractor Supply. If you keep the sleeve and belt clean, you can return them for a full refund and get the correct length.

Before you go out on a shopping spree check the fuse holders and fuses. There is a 30 amp fuse between the battery and the ignition switch and the battery acid fumes fro battery recharging will corode the fuse holders over time. To see if the solenoid is good run a small jumper from the small terminal on the solenoid to the battery + post, if it cranks over the solinoid is good. A little trouble shooting can save you some money.

@TractorEd are these bolts at the top of the slot that they are in? That will help raise the rear of the deck when lifting.

I've been working on adding layers of filler and primer, then sanding them to get the tank end smoothed up. I sprayed a coat of silver paint on that today. Pics later. Here, the left rear fender has been attached.

There's a nut you tighten to make that latch movement a little stiffer. I was driving along a few years back and didn't notice that lever vibrated rearward. Next thing I knew the tractor was 10 feet in front of me and pulling away!

An old picture of my 1257 when my dad got it many years ago.

Yep, I missed that tensioner.

Makes sense to me to make that operation easy and controlled to encourage frequent use since, of course, having the upper guide close to the workpiece makes for more precise cuts. The throat depth of that saw tells me it was used on very large items, too, where a messed up cut could be quite costly. It also looks like it has a small drive wheel and and idler to keep the table height low. Good luck with it!

ME would be better.