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Is your transmission oil filled up to the mark on the dipstick? Is the drive belt tensioner pushing the belt down to tighten it? Draw a line across the rear hub and axle on both sides then attempt to drive the tractor, stop and look at the lines. If one of the lines is no longer aligned then the axle key or the hub is broken. Hope this helps.

Well well well... a whole day dedicated to some, not all, characters on

Not really to, but with: The first post I couldn't get balanced on the dolly well because there wasn't enough room to work, so I had to leave it attached to the engine crane too. The whole thing was too heavy and unbalanced for me to push up the ramp to the garage by myself, so I got to thinking about my options. The 855 has the plow on, plows are for pushing things. Fired it up and set the plow at the right height to engage the base of the post, and up the hill we went. Do we have a "What have you done WITH your WH today?" thread?

Weary Willie Day on December nineth celebrates a unique clown character known for his sad, downcast look. Unlike typical clowns who are cheerful and brightly dressed, Weary Willie has a somber, reflective expression that sets him apart. This day honors the art of clowning and the impact it has on making us laugh while also invoking deeper emotions. It reminds us that even in tough times, like those during the Great Depression when Weary Willie first appeared, there’s a place for humor and empathy in our lives. This special day is not just about one clown but also about recognizing the broader art of clowning. Weary Willie’s character, created by Emmett Kelly, breaks the stereotype of the happy clown and offers a different, poignant perspective. This alternative approach to humor makes people reflect on their struggles, offering a gentle reminder to take life’s challenges with a bit of humor. Celebrating Weary Willie Day encourages us to appreciate the diversity in comedic expression and the valuable role clowns play in entertainment.

Your reasoning behind that? When a new to comes in here that is the first thing that comes off for a few reasons. Bit easier to service tractor.. Skools me on taking it on and off. Most if not all decks were designed to be easily taken on and off. Procedure should be in the deck manual. Best way to inspect/service deck.

No problem for the tractor, but my material handling training taught me to never put a body part under a suspended load.

Care to post your list.

Well it lives! I left Ewan with an axle bolted on, he’s done the clutch and got it running. next step will be a test drive. Might be a run out with C4 and some extreme testing 6C4FCCBD-20EA-45AD-BE02-F5A70638B51A.mov

Hydraulic hoses #905 Viton O rings. Hydraulic hoses #905 Viton O rings installed. Hydraulic halve and hoses as removed. Make sure to install the hoses the same as removed or the hydraulics will work backwards (don't ask how I know). O rings on hydraulic hoses oiled then screwed tightly into valve.

Yes that's correct. I wasn't sure which one you had. I've definitely done that. Just a note here for those in the future looking at adding spacers. Wheel Horse has 7/16 inch lugs. Every space or I've ever seen around this size has half inch lugs. Use a half inch drill to just touch the holes in the wheel. You're barely removing any material and it does not seem to affect anything structurally. I've done this to half a dozen sets of Wheels probably. I usually find one or two of the holes are already at half inch anyway.

Best to NOT try to use a floor jack under the middle of the axle, as there is an angled grease zerk fitting there - very easy to snap it off. I use a lifting strap around the frame near the engine - the top of the strap goes to a come-along on an overhead beam in the garage... Doing so it is then in the correct position to grease the axle pivot & spindles.....

Hello Ralph, Pack up 6 pairs of that $350 underwear and one of those cute little grass mowers! Have it delivered to my penthouse today. LOL

Another vote for pulling the deck. Good way to inspect the frame at the transmission mount, or “f plate” as well.

Do check to see if either the keyway in the hub or the keyseat in the axle are wallowed out... if so, just replacing the woodruff key is not a long term fix.

Next place to check is the pulley and key on the input shaft of the transmission. Possible missing bolt, set screw or key.

There used to be one and it disappeared for some reason. Perhaps @nylyon or @Sparky remembers why.... That was when this particular thread was started. I've kind of gotten into the habit over the years that, if I used my Wheelhorse it goes in this thread. If I didn't use my Wheelhorse it goes in the other thread, "What did you do today?"

The wheel weights ...

Some of the observed differences Mower DNA 42" rear discharge 1976 model 65-42MR01 replaced by - (Has the flat spindle belt idler pulley mounted on a triangular plate.) - (Has multi-link hardware at the gauge wheel support) 1977 model 75-42MR01 - Both use blades with 5/8" x 3/4" double-D center hole unless the spindles have been upgraded. (Has the flat spindle belt idler pulley mounted on a triangular plate) - (Has multi-link hardware at the gauge wheel support) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These all use blades with 3/4" center hole. 1977 model 75-42MR02 replaced by - (Has the flat spindle belt idler pulley mounted on a flat bar) (Has multi-link hardware at the gauge wheel support) 1978 model 85-42MR01 - (Has the flat spindle belt idler pulley mounted on a flat bar) (Has multi-link hardware at the gauge wheel support) 1979 model 95-42MR01 - Shares an illustrated parts list with 85-42MR01 - (Has the flat spindle belt idler pulley mounted on a flat bar) (Has multi-link hardware at the gauge wheel support) 1979 model 95-42MR02 - (Has no multi-link hardware at the gauge wheel support) 1980-1983 model 05-42MR01 1984 model 05-42MR02 - Last year for bearings with 3/4" ID 1985 model 05-42MR03 - First year for bearings with 17mm ID unless older spindles were updated. 1986-1988 model 05-42MR04 1989-1990 model 15-42RC01 1990-1992 model 15-42RC02 1993-2012 model 78350 Note - 17mm is .669" With each file description page are thumbnails showing the spindle assemblies used - the original and any that replaced the originals. Compare them to what you have and all three may be different if a replacement has taken place.

Full Text of the 5th Amendment to the US Constitution No person shall be held to answer for a capital, or otherwise infamous crime, unless on a presentment or indictment of a Grand Jury, except in cases arising in the land or naval forces, or in the Militia, when in actual service in time of War or public danger; nor shall any person be subject for the same offence to be twice put in jeopardy of life or limb; nor shall be compelled in any criminal case to be a witness against himself, nor be deprived of life, liberty, or property, without due process of law; nor shall private property be taken for public use, without just compensation.

Hydraulic fittings and new #906 Viton O rings. Hydraulic fittings new #906 Viton O rings installed. Backup washer and nut screwed out until O ring is just contacted. This is the position to screw the fitting in and still have room to tighten the nut ensuring the O ring stays in the proper place on the fitting and not pushed into threaded areas. Hydraulic fittings ready to install into the valve. Valve has new #111 Viton O rings already installed. This is a picture I took of the valve as removed showing fitting orientation. Hydraulic fittings installed after oiling O rings, and orientated roughly the same as removed. This will make installation of the valve easier (I hope).

I'll have the tie rods. You're all set there. As far as the axle pivot, at the recommendation of others on Red Square I purchased a reamer a while back. If I recall correctly it goes to 7/8 inch so I buy bushings that are 7/8 by 3/4. Not sure if a 520 is the same. I believe so. The steering gear backlash, there are a couple of great threads here on Red Square about that repair. I can get them out of my notes and post them here later.

I cannot lie... I like big backs!

C141 has a drum for the brake. C160 does not. C160 has more space, if anything.

Thanks Guys. My 416 is going to foot control so removed those spring washers. There should be two dome shaped washers that go in facing each other for spring action. I wonder if your is missing one or they are just facing the same direction and stacked. Likely either way will work so long as you can get the proper drag when tightened as shown below.

After 6 years, the search for the Burns engine is over! As far as I know it's the correct spec for the tractor, little bit newer than it but it's a 6 hp with the old style flywheel shroud which was really what I was looking for. Air cleaner is completely disintegrating and the pull start is gummy but it has compression so I'm hopeful. Excited to get it running to finally get this tractor going again!

I have two Sunstrands. One on a '73 with a K341 and 10 pinion L/S that will spin both rears with lugged tires. The other came on a '75 c-160 that was run hard. Busted F-bracket and trashed keyways in both axles. It seemed good internally with clean fluid so I tore it down and replaced the axles. The pump and motor were in great shape so I just cleaned up the slippers and it's a spare now, likely good for many more years if I ever need it.

That looks correct to me. I added a chunk of rubber to stiffen each spring. I also add a piece of rubber for the springs to rest on. Make sure you leave a hole for the seat switch.

I ordered some stuff from Wheel Horse Parts and More and thought the shipment was short. Sent a text and received almost immediate response. As it turned out the problem was on my end. Joette helped with the issue. Thanks, JoeM In today's world we pretty much hear the bad and hardly any of the good stuff. Just wanted to share.

It's all good now guy's Thanks again Hey neighbor , Good to see yer still around

Front axle center pivot is 3/4 on all 520's just like the 300 and 400 series machines. Only the spindles went to 1" on 1990 and later 520's and on 1988,1989 520HC models. The 1988 and 1989 500 series outside of the HC models basically used the same front end as the 300 and 400 series machines.

After thinking about the three options for removing the bearing race I decided to first try 953 nut's suggestion first. I fabricated a metal plate using 3/8" x 4" x 4" plate and drilled a bunch of holes in it. After looking through my bin of pullers I found a two armed puller that I could bolt directly to the plate. Normally a two armed puller would not be a good application for pulling something like this but bolted to the plate kept it stabilized. It took maybe an hour to fab the plate and about 5 minutes to get the bearing race off. It worked even better than I had hoped for. The only thing I didn't anticipate was the main motor drive pulley is part of the clutch disc. I thought they were separate, so when the drive pulley came off with the plate I was a little surprised. Thanks for all the help!

Looks like a 1978 or 1979 model. Fuel tank under the seat. Engine horse power with hydro transmission will identify the model number.

ACE Hardware should have them.

Good ones should they are a common key but these days you never know what stores stock

Would a hardware store have them?

That gives me a chance to look it over using the good eye!!

@ebinmaine My 160 has brake drum it's an 8 speed, are you thinking of an auto with no drum? I did just notice @JoeM c141 has fuel tank under seat and mine is mounted under hood, might make a difference? My 160 has a separate clutch and brake pedal, idk if that makes a difference are not, but if I forget what I'm doing will about run over stuff forgetting to mash brake .

Thanks Cleat. The washers are NLA, found some NOS and have them coming. I have about 5 hours of seat time on the tractor, so here is a bit of an update/explanation for why I'm looking at the hydro controls: The engine runs fantastic after a good carb clean and replacement of all the ignition system components. Hard to believe this is a 2000 hour Onan. I will still plan on a proper reseal/valve adjustment/500+ hour service but this will require pulling the engine, so I'm going to let that go in order to tackle the more pressing needs of the machine. I do plan on an intake reseal before then just for peace of mind. The four areas that need attention: 1. Steering - extremely sloppy. Tie rod ends are shot, axle pivot is loose, steering gear backlash needs work. 2. Throttle cable creep. (Fixed) Removed the lever, drilled out the review, installed 1/4-20 bolt, washers, and nylock. 3. Charging system fault. Unit overcharges. Diagnosed the fault to be at the regulator output. Will replace regulator. For now, I have a Kohler regulator temporarily hooked up to keep everything stable. 4. Hydro leak. So far, the only leak I see is from the side of the case, below the fan where there looks to be a casting plug. Further analysis will require some deeper teardown. For now, though there is not any leak that is so massive that I could see it being responsible for the amount of debris that it had covering everything. I changed the fluid and filter (they had an automotive engine filter installed 😐). 5. Hydro creep/lack of top speed. Adjustment of the friction washers did not help. Found one broken friction washer. Plan is to rebuild the whole assembly. At 2000 hours, it's just all ready to be replaced anyway. I've taken it apart, cleaned and inspected, welded up some wear on the adjustment cam, and reinstalled. The spring washers aren't really a wear item, but it can't hurt to have new ones. Will plan on new rod ends for the linkage and new bushing for the lever pivot. Don't like the use of the nyliners, so depending on difficulty of access, I may elect for modification and an oilite bearing upgrade. It now can reach almost full travel on the cam plate and will hold lever position much better. Still a long way from being correct, but makes the unit much less annoying to drive. 6. Final electrical fixes. Deutsch plug for disconnecting engine from chassis. Get all dash lighting operational. Fix rear light fixtures. Lots to do, but it does run, drive, steer, stop and mow now. Shame the owner let it get this bad.😥

There are probably many bulbs that will work. I'm guessing a GE No. 67 single contact bulb or if it's a double contact a 68. There are many variations of this bulb with different wattages, lumens and life expectancy.

@meadowfield as always you do class A work. And you have all the right equipment to do it. I feel certain that I’m not alone by saying well done and definitely you through this project. Enjoy the ride..

Cleat's thread is fantastic. However, during the rebuild, he did not use the factory spring washer and tension washer setup at the hydro cam plate, so for OEM reference it does not suffice. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/110413-got-another-one-a-416-this-time/?do=findComment&comment=1253363

People seem to be very happy with Hipa products. https://www.hipastore.com/

The drill press I inherited from my Dad was a “no longer good enough” retiree he got free from a friend in a machine shop. In those years, every penny mattered in our household. It has a couple 000ths of movement in the spindle bearing (that I live with) and the chuck is spot welded on. Years ago I asked about the welding and he told me the chuck kept falling off and there was no other way to fix it.

most mill tapers are a larger angle than a Morse taper and they are usuly held in with a bolt that runs through the spindle. The Morse taper is a self locking taper (steel on steel self locking tapers are 10 degrees or less) and they don't like side loads on the spindle. I had a 1/4" end mill chucked up once freehanding some sort of odd shaped hole. It grabbed, rattled the work piece around and in the blink of an eye, shook the chuck out of the spindle. Fortunately, when it grabbed, it just walked around the hole I started with and didn't grab the work piece hard enough to spin it - thus avoiding a @Pullstart type incident. Having the work piece in a vice and using the vice as a handle helped a bit.

Worked on restoring the headlights on the 522xi. I had good luck with the headlight reflector, but not quite as good with the lens. For the reflector, after cleaning and a light bead blasting to roughen the surface slightly, I sprayed it with "Rust-Oleum Automotive 600 Degree Aluminum Engine Enamel," which is great paint. It's quite shiny and adheres really well, although the overspray is messy as it sticks to everything within several feet of where you're spraying. I then top-coated it with "Rust-Oleum Automotive 600 Degree Gloss Clear Engine Enamel." I think the reflector is 'almost' as reflective as the original surface, and it should hold up well. The headlight lens is much better than it was before (brownish yellow, almost opaque, and heavily oxidized), but it's still rather milky after I spent almost two hours polishing it halfway to China, using all kinds of approaches, including progressively finer sandpaper, headlight restorer kit, polishing compounds, wax, etc. I think the milkiness is very deep, so I guess I'll either have to put up with it or buy a new or used replacement lens. New ones are still available, but kind of expensive. By contrast, the headlight lens on my GT18 (the same kind of lens) cleaned up beautifully (below) and is crystal clear. I guess my 522xi must have spent a lot more time outside in the sun than the GT18.

A few more - he completed the drive flanges, so now the hubs are driven. onto final bits = the rear axle keyways were badly wallowed. So fresh 1/4 slots milled ready for much longer keys.

Installed 3d printed chute retainers and motor cover on the XI

Diesel is slowly going back together. Eventually I'll have to pull it to the front and pull the engine to replace the starter and some annoying to reach gaskets. Going to be doing some fab work, taking a firewall from a parts tractor and modifying it to go in front of the battery to do three things: keep the battery from walking off the tray due to the front being cut off, give some support to the hood to prevent it from breaking the top of the dash again, and also to keep the battery from shorting against the hood if the hood breaks the dash again. Shame the hood (not pictured) is so bad looking, they seem to have sanded all the red off and then shoddily painted it white. I don't have the kind of money that people want for an original diesel hood, nor do I really think that it's a huge priority thing to buy given the leaking injectors and the completely gutted and rotten muffler...