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Two idiots go on a fishing trip They rent all the equipment - the reels, the rods, the wading suits, the rowboat, the car, and even a cabin in the woods. They spend a fortune. The first day they go fishing, but they don't catch anything. The same thing happens on the second day, and on the third day. It goes on like this until finally, on the last day of their holiday, one of the men catches a fish. As they're driving home, they're really depressed. One guy turns to the other and says "Do you realize that this one lousy fish we caught cost us $1,500!" The other guy says "Wow! It's a good thing we didn't catch any more!"

September 28,1850, United States Congress votes to ban flogging on both naval and merchant vessels. Until then, misbehaving sailors were often punished by stripping them to the waist and lashing their bare backs with whips known as cat o’ nine tails.

Here's some pictures of the pulller I built.

It that weld lets go that guy needs to stop welding!

Flat on flat is better IMHO. Rather the weld break then the plate shatter from bowing around the nut.

Uh oh... Mods gonna ban this emoji?

The "FLOGGINGS" will continue until morale improves!

Took advantage of the nice weather today. Put the show tractors away for the year along with the patio furniture & grill. I know its still kinda early but finding time to get things done is getting harder. Work is busy, home to-do projects that have become must-do, & helping mom at her place now that dad is gone.

Hoisted the 48"SD up to see if I could get the broken bolt out of the spindle. I got lucky. A few taps with a punch and it spun right out. Threw a patch on the left rear corner. Sharpened the blades. Finish scraping, wire brushing and oil down for the winter.

Worked today on removing the bed liner from the steering wheel. The parts that went on right were fine, but some of it was clumpy and cracked up. Looking better now. Needs another coat of primer. I wish I was paid by the hour for all the sanding on this old steering wheel. Lots of time spent re-shaping it. Dave

I made a calculator, same as I did for the other 3 4x4 built, each one tuned for the wheel size and axle design.

A few months ago I gave my buddy a round hood. He recently picked up a zero turn WH and plans to do some surgeries to them. Anyway, he didn’t need this 60” deck. Front mount upgrade?

The Charger 9, as are all Charger models, is long frame.

More progress on the hydrolift retrofit. The valve block and lines are now attached to the ram. It is semi permanent as it’s a PITA to put in. I made a mounting plate out of aluminum, that the valve block bolts to then bolted to the frame. It’s relatively close to where the original was. So as of tonight everything but the hard lines and the handle are in, that will be tomorrow’s project.

New axle and brake seal on the C-125. The hub puller I bought from a member here worked like a charm!!! Thanks @Blue Chips!!! Ordering axle seal for the B-80. Had to remove chains from the C-125 plow mule... they were rubbing in a few spots... Ran them all around the hood to give them some exercise...then they posed for a quick pic...

Patched up a couple seats. Used some liquid repair type stuff and some vinyl with sticky on back, both came from the jungle site and seems to work great. IDK how long or tough it will be but at least I aint leaving a trail of foam everywhere they go.

Mowed a couple rounds with the 48"SD on the 312H and on the next round I noticed the right blade was not cutting. Thinking the spindle belt tensioner was jammed with grass, I pulled under the hoist and lifted her up to check it out. The blade was missing. A quick search and I found the blade but not the bolt and washer. I dumped a deck parts bucket and grabbed a new bolt and washer and sharpened the blade while it was off. Put the blade back on but the bolt would not start in the hole. The bolt didn't vibrate out, it broke off. So the deck came off and went on the repair/storage rack. It also needs a hole patched then cleaned and oil soaked. I put the plow on this tractor every fall just a little earlier than usual this year. Got out the 310-8 to finish mowing. The grass was due to be vacuumed up any way. I use the Trac Vac every 3-4 mowings.

First I screwed the pieces together on the tractor. Then I used superglue to attach 2 small broken off pieces, then deep pour epoxy to rebuild it one section at a time. Used aluminum duct tape to form each section I poured the epoxy into. Then grinding the back side to get a good fit and glazing / sanding the front. Painted it with Ace International Red. Overall, I’d give it a 8 out of 10, but way better than how it was or no bumper at all.

Not sure you coil is the problem...but a Harley Davidson 2 cylinder coil which can be had cheap has been used successfully.

You may be right in your drawing but others will be along to welcome and hopefully have a pic or two. That manual does not show the chain routing, size or the size of the idler. You will need that and an idea of the chain length would be helpful as well. The idler bolt may be fitted in a oval hole for chain tension adjustment.

Hauling some firewood out of the woods this weekend with the GT-1848. Major deck maintenance going on recently: I had the baffle come loose on one of the 48" SD's a few weeks ago and it got a bit mangled. Deck and spindles have significant rot so I'm probably going to scrap that one. Oh, and the 312-A is back there getting a cleanup and repaint of the rear, tins, and wheels. Not pulling it all apart to repaint everything. It's got fairly new rear tires so I got a matching pair of new ones for the front. Been sitting on a set of nice hubcaps and black belt cover - those will go on here when done. New decals from @Vinylguy - will post pictures when those go on.

What did the periodic table say to the chemist? "I've got my ion you."

I can agree to that Eric. Ever since I started using non-ethanol fuel things have changed for the better. Quicker starts nice smooth running engines. I give it an A+.

Mystery Solved: Asked seller.. Seller said he made The eyebrows and thinks the lights are 1940s Oliver tractor lights sent me these pictures today

I made some progress on the hydro deck lift retrofit tonight. The shaft is in and the ram is on. The shaft isn’t attached to the bar that lifts the deck as I wanted to go look at how it’s attached before I drill any holes etc…It still might need to be adjusted but I wanted to get things together then figure out where the sticking point is. More progress tomorrow…maybe

Finally getting back to this one. No crank, so I went through all the electrical cleaning connections and coating with dielectric grease. I had replaced the solenoid with a 4 terminal. Learned the unused 4terminal needs to be grounded. PO had removed all safety switches and still no crank. Remembered the voltage regular connection. That was it, the terminals were loose on the meter. So it cranked, but no spark. I had previously cleaned the points an did a static timing. I had voltage to the points, but they just didn’t act right. I finally replaced them and still no spark. I was trying to read points with my meter so I had my wife come out ant turn the key. Bingo blue spark in the spark tester I still had connected. Of course she asked why I’d been working on it all day PS I need some new black plastic pieces that hold the terminals on the key switch and regulator. Does anyone have a part name/number and vendor? @953 nut @Racinbob So now I’m ready to put gas in it tomorrow. I’m really curious how it will run with my previous leakdown test and not great valve seating. I have the valve and seat grinder I bought a while back, but I wanted to see how it would run. It’s been 50 years since I used a valve and seat grinder. Trying to fix a previous marginal seat grinding may not be the best place to start. I have a junk block I’ve been meaning to practice on.

My 416-H has the "Matt's Foot Pedal". So everything is loose and well lubed.

The Kohler is a big Plus

HL-5 was a kit that was offered with an attachment bracket. HL-6 was its Cyclops brother.

And glaze. If a belt has been slipping it is not a bad idea to take some coarse sand paper and rough the surface up a bit.

Surging is likely a fuel to air ratio problem. I have had success eliminating these problems by using alcohol-free gas https://www.pure-gas.org/ and adding Berrymans B-12 fuel additive at double the recommended rate for a couple of tanks of gas to get the small passages in the carburetor clean.

2 ton heat pump house inside complete with air handler that has backup electric heat coils (hopefully they never need to be used). 2 ton heat pump house outside unit nearly complete. It just needs the line sets to be full wrapped for appearance and to be sealed where they pass into the house.

Interesting design. I’d probably use it with the center nut on the side toward the hub and not rely entirely on the weld to hold it. But then, I rarely walk on the wild side!

Early doe chili for dinner!!!

I know you said you have a good strong spark, but it surely smells of an electrical problem. Could the spark plug wires be old and wet enough that they are shorting before the spark gets to the plugs? Remove the air cleaner and try cranking it in the dark while you look for fire in the plug wires.

Another huge trash night score... Honda engine. Fired up second pull... I am sure the pump is shot, but who the hell throws away a running Honda engine? My next project...

Amazon Chinese carburetor has been working fine for last 3yrs since I installed it. $14 & needed no adjustment 👍🏻

When I heard that oxygen and magnesium were hookin' up I was like, OMg!

Yeah, it’d mean breaking out the “gazintas”. 24 gazinta 48 two times

Nylon I have been using one of these for a very long time. It was originally made for motorcycles, but I’ve been using it on snowmobiles and all my tractors. It works very well. Just my two cents Nylon.

I changed oil and rotated tires on wife car and my truck, so got some of the honey dos done. I said I was finished disassembling, but forgot to include pulling the carb, fuel pump and breather. Their soaking in the ultrasonic cleaner and I’ll check valve clearance. I also ran a tap through all the head bolt holes. Clean threads are helpful for a proper bolt torque. The breather cavity was fairly clean, so that’s encouraging. Another disassembly in progress is the steering wheel hub. If you look back in this thread you’ll see the steering wheel plastic hub wired together with baling wire. I’m trying to save the steel hub and epoxy the whole thing back together. I did a similar repair on my C81 when I got it. But it wasn’t cracked quite as bad as this one. Wet rag at base to save dash. I media blasted the metal brake band. Soaked the brake lining in the ultrasonic cleaner to de grease it. Then scratched the back side up with sand paper I wrapped the brake drum in plastic wrap and clamped the band and lining together around it. I used some Goop to glue the brake lining together around the metal band The rust pitting on PTO face is deep. Along the outer 1/2”. Since it’s essentially junk, I’m going to try a long shot fix. I’ve seen 500f epoxy putty advertised. So I’m going to go blast the pitting to get it weary clean and establish an anchor profile. (I learned that fancy lingo back at work from industrial paint and epoxy salesmen. All their adhesion warranties are based on anchor profile. My thinking is the clutch metal should not get excessively hot as long as the clutch isn’t slipping. I have a used clutch plate with an ok pad, so If this idea fails won’t be wasting a new clutch pad. I removed the front snap ring and tapped out the front OTO bearing. Lifted the seal and will regrease it with so good red and tacky grease. Tomorrow I need to get to work gently removing those 3 transmission seals.

Thursday I got some honey-do done, change the oil and rotated tires on her car and my truck. Put some pre emergent on the yard, planted a bundle of 50 onion plant in the garden. Back to the C101. Blasted the brake band and after soaking the brake lining in the ultrasonic cleaner then sanded the back a little to clean off old glue. Wrapped the brake drum in plastic wrap and clamped lining and band around drum. Glued the lining back in with Goop. The rust pitting on the PTO is bad about a 1/2” in around the face. Since it junk, I’m going to try a long shot to save it. I plan to blast a good anchor profile in the pitted areas and fill them with some Extreme Heat JB Weld. I have a used clutch disc I’ll put on So if it fails I won’t waste a new one. Removed the front PTO snap ring and tapped out the front bearing. Removed the seal and will regrease it with some Red and tacky grease. The carb and fuel pump are soaking and will get run through the ultrasonic cleaner a few times. Pulled the breather to clean it and check the valve tapped clearance. Y’all remember the steering wheel wired together in and earlier picture. I saved the cracked steering wheel on my C81 a few years ago by JB welding the hub back in the cracked wheel. This one is cracked worse, but I’ll give it a try. Heated the rusted hub and roll pin to loosen it up a little.

I dropped my wife at the airport yesterday and rolled the C101 into her spot in the garage. I’ve got 6 day to work on it and a small Honey-do list. I had previously jumped the solenoid and coil to prove it would run for a few minutes. Smoked on startup but seemed there was hope. So on to a large maintenance/neglect list. The PTO pulley was rusted tight to the clutch disc. Got it off and need to clean up the pro face to see how bad the pitting is Pulled the head to decarbon, measure bore and Ck if valves need to be lapped. The carbon pattern on the top of the piston shows theirs some blow by in the clean oily area. But maybe something to live with. The PO sad the engine was bored 0.10 over about -0 years ago and had now sat unused after he bought a zero turn to mow faster. The cylinder bore does still show some hone marks. I’ll measure bore to see what it really is. I put some penetrating fluid around the intake valve and it held it for 4 hours last night this morning about half had seep through. So not bad for a quasi valve Ck. Put the rear on jack stands and pulled rear wheels. Replacing the jury rigged clutch spring is on the list. The brake pad is loose and needs regaled or replaced Thankfully the brake hub came of nicely for cleaning and to replace the leaking seal behind it. While I was under it I inspected the transmission mounting plate and no sign of cracks. Crud build behind the Input Pulley tells me it also needs a new seal. Stated soaking the Allen set screw for removal. The right hub was loose and seal leaking. It slid off easily and thankfully the keyway in the hub and axle are ok. Ran a tap through both hubs bolt holes to clean them up. The left hub is tight and the seal doesn’t appear to be leaking. I’ll just check the torque on its set bolt and leave that seal for another day. Thankfully I have all the parts in hand except for a new starter solenoid that should be here today. That’s most of the disassembly, so on to some clean up work.

Nice score Ollie. Yes when they come up for that price in your neck of the woods it's a no brainer. Patina to die for and way too complete for a parts machine.

Added a hood scoop today to cover up the air filter to keep the weather out, still may add a screen to the front to help out as well. I'll clean up the excess seam sealer once it's dry.