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Did some more today exhaust and fuel line and throttle is hooked up that's all done now time to put the battery in and put some fuel in and see if this old commando will come to life

953 or 1054 Go get it.

The biggest troublemaker you’ll probably ever have to deal with, watches you from the mirror every mornin’.

If the cable goes slack when the hitch is lowered, the cable needs to be shortened until it has tension thru the complete range of lift.

or get a lower PTO hoop holder (or make one) and use spacers like this

If I remember correctly the Onan engines Wheel Horse/Toro used have a charging system rated at 20 amps. Most of the Kohler's have a 15 amp system. You can use a larger rated regulator on a smaller system but not a smaller regulator on a larger system.

There really isn't much of a lobe to begin with but for the sake of discussion: My C160 would be a beast to get the carb primed if I ran out of gas. so I thought the pump was bad and replaced it. Couldn't get any gas to the carb at all. I unbolted it with the lines connected and could get it to pump like crazy by hand. Tried installing it like 10 times with no luck. Went electric and never looked back.

Sorry no pics Eric, but I have eliminated this engine mounting design that depends on four rubber sponges and the drive and PTO belt tension to position the engine. Some I replaced the rubbers with solid spacers and some I cut the angled wings off the cradle plate, removed the tapered bars and bolted the plate directly to the frame with the correct spacers to put the engine at the correct height. All worked well and IMO had the same or less vibration than the rubber mounts. Here is a link to my Low Rider build where I altered the cradle plate to a solid mount. Page #2 shows the mods.

There was a small piece of the cam friction welded to the fuel pump. I’d never seen it before either.

Solves several problems. Instant starts save batteries and starters. And eliminates the risk of a leaking diaphragm pumping fuel into the crankcase and destroying an engine and possibly the operator.

I'm pretty frugal and opted to use 1/2" x 1 1/2".

E Bay will make it good. Just start a return.

Not saying it was or wasn't, but I've never seen a cam lobe worn down by a fuel pump arm. However, an electric pump is a good replacement.

Replace with solid. I'm not sure who sells them. I've seen pics of someone on here that showed a home shop made set. @Ed Kennell ?? Maybe... Seconded

Wheel Horse Parts and more sells nice machined solid ones Or you can work out a stack of appropriate sized washers.

You have 2 choices for ridgid mounting. One is to purchase the Ebay available CNC machined ones ( I have a used set on a C81 - works great). Or measure the gap from the underside of the plate to the top of the frame & fill it with solid spacers of your making.... IMHO - replacing soggy useless laminated mounts with the same is a waste of time & money.

Welcome! Before purchasing a replacement - take the time to remove the mounting fasteners, CLEAN all involved - the mounting on the tractor, the back & front mount areas of the rectifier & the fasteners. Why?? The rectified REQUIRES a good ground to work properly. Do that & reassemble - then fire up the tractor to verify battery voltage. Many of us run a dedicated ground wire to the rectifier for that purpose. The failure mode takes place over time as the aluminum oxidized & the other players corrode.... Replacement part needs to be able to deal with amperage of the charging system. Make sure the pin-out & physical connector are the same.....

You payed for a "new one". I know its a pain, but don't accept less that what you paid for.

Agreed... MAYBE the damage was there prior to shipment, maybe not.... Will it "flow"? YES - but at a reduced capacity. Not exactly what you want... BUT... if the seller insists that it was undamaged prior to shipment AND blames the carrier... that is on HIM TOO. Poor packaging of fragile items is a risk at best. I double box any questionacle item before shipping... Inside box packed with wadding or bubble wrap to immobize the part, more packing between the boxes. Looks to have been shipped via FedEx...... was the item insured?? If so, remind him he will be compensated upon its return IF adequately insured.... The seller seens to be a legitamite automotive supplier... ask for a pre-paid RGA (Return Goods Authorization) BEFORE sending it back. That puts the shipping cost on him. You have the right to dispute the sale thru EBAY - did you check the seller's rating brfore purchasing?? If less than 96% - that's on YOU. My

I wouldn't use it. The seller needs to refund your money and file a transportation damage claim. If they won't oblige, report to (ebay?) and file a claim.

Edy had a cabinet in the garage that she wanted gone. I didn’t need to use the Roper to move it but I wanted to.😁😁😁 I transported it to the workshop and installed it in a corner of my office.