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953 or 1054 Go get it.

We see a lot of questions regarding faltering engines under load. Heat sink problems. Testing procedures for ignitions. These two videos show some very good information about the subject. The first one, about the spark plug gaps, gets particularly intuitive around the halfway point.

Marketplace listed.. what model? Seller asking $200.00. Hasent Ran in years, needs carb rebuild, always been in same family ad states.

September 14, 1964, the Kellogg’s Company begins selling the Pop-Tart. The innovative portable-breakfast-treat-turned-anytime-snack would go on to sell billions annually and help redefine the breakfast food market.

3 speed, hydraulic lift, lots of ground clearance, super heavy duty frame and front axle. What’s not to love?

Did some more today exhaust and fuel line and throttle is hooked up that's all done now time to put the battery in and put some fuel in and see if this old commando will come to life

Fl tractor. This will make a good project for you. Take your time with it. Enjoy it when it is done.

The biggest troublemaker you’ll probably ever have to deal with, watches you from the mirror every mornin’.

How did this project ever turn out?

I’ve done that, even for drilling holes in the ceiling joists or loft joists for the pool shed. Sometimes I use a 2x4 as a pry jack instead of hydraulic pressure though. Lots of catching up on this thread, so I started from the beginning. Most of the issues are taken care of through to process, but one I wanted to mention was the frame stretch and flat bed planning. My 9’ deck insert for Norman has been able to haul lots, and the frame is the stock length still. I think maybe that’s an over think EB and you’d be just fine slapping a 9’ flat bed on your stock frame. Just a thought… and make it wide enough for two C series machines. Easy peasy.

Little bit of a flea market haul from the show too.

Why does an elephant wear tennies? Nineys are too small and elevenies are too big.

What do you call cattle wearing wheeled shoes? Rolling stock.

Bought my wife a Bull Dog for her birthday. She made me take it back. Said it barked funny.

It was a great show even if the starter went out of the raider 1/2 through the day! Didn’t get enough pictures now that I looked

That's what I was thinking too. If I can find a decent piece of large C channel around the size of the original bumper, I could use the stock brackets.

Yes, I know about these PDF's, but the 7207 bearing is not listed on any of them. Thanks

or get a lower PTO hoop holder (or make one) and use spacers like this

If I remember correctly the Onan engines Wheel Horse/Toro used have a charging system rated at 20 amps. Most of the Kohler's have a 15 amp system. You can use a larger rated regulator on a smaller system but not a smaller regulator on a larger system.

Filter should be between the pump and tank.

There really isn't much of a lobe to begin with but for the sake of discussion: My C160 would be a beast to get the carb primed if I ran out of gas. so I thought the pump was bad and replaced it. Couldn't get any gas to the carb at all. I unbolted it with the lines connected and could get it to pump like crazy by hand. Tried installing it like 10 times with no luck. Went electric and never looked back.

There was a small piece of the cam friction welded to the fuel pump. I’d never seen it before either.

Solves several problems. Instant starts save batteries and starters. And eliminates the risk of a leaking diaphragm pumping fuel into the crankcase and destroying an engine and possibly the operator.

E Bay will make it good. Just start a return.

Wheel Horse Parts and more sells nice machined solid ones Or you can work out a stack of appropriate sized washers.

You have 2 choices for ridgid mounting. One is to purchase the Ebay available CNC machined ones ( I have a used set on a C81 - works great). Or measure the gap from the underside of the plate to the top of the frame & fill it with solid spacers of your making.... IMHO - replacing soggy useless laminated mounts with the same is a waste of time & money.

Edy had a cabinet in the garage that she wanted gone. I didn’t need to use the Roper to move it but I wanted to.😁😁😁 I transported it to the workshop and installed it in a corner of my office.

Did some work on the commando today the wiring is done gas tank fuel line installed did some work to the fender pan and mounted the seat on have couple more things to do and should be ready to bring it back to life as anybody used LED headlight bulbs instead of the 1156 bulbs

@WHX?? dry camping is no hookups. We take a generator and our own water. WARNING You're gonna see some of my off brand stuff lol IMG_20260910_101038.heic

What do you call cattle with a sense of humor? Laughing stock.

Why doesn’t the hulks pants fall off when he transforms? because the transformation alters is “genes”.

This picture taken at "interveiw"

Had today off so hit a tractor museum in Perth Australia, about an hour north of where I’m at. Almost all farm tractors but they did have one that was “WH size” called Howard. Had my Lawn/Garden tractor mag with me, perfect for a picture! And yes, I wore one of my WHCC shirts

Ok so now I gotta ask ... what the hell is "dry camping"? I don't think @Achto would like not having the Captain in camp...

I agree with that Achto 100%. . I just did the 1056 with that dash board. Much better. Back in the day they made good push / pull cables. Today,s are junk.

A few more pictures, a lot more messing with the steering and getting the right clearance and Ackerman angle. Chain out from front axle Another test run - and a photogenic picture

I decided to use two existing holes that were for the rear crossmember. The new one, pictured, has 1/2" holes in the bottom already. The hitch uses 1/2" bolts. I drilled out the truck frame from 7/16" to 1/2". Very minor change and didn't have to make two new holes there. Because I'm using those holes 🕳 the hitch is forward about an inch and a half. This puts the forward hole past the frame bend instead of in the bend. I see this as an advantage as well. I've ordered a couple bevel washers from Bolt Depot 🔩. They'll help line up the hitch frame to the truck frame. After all the drilling is completed I'll remove the new crossmember for paint.

Got some VERY cool stuff today for the build. Two new crossmembers for the rear of the frame. Also one "restored" original that holds the center fuel tank. These are the correct 8 mm wires for an HEI distributor. Excellent brand. Red to match the distributor cap. They were on fleeeebay listed as a small block or big block Chevy V8 set. I knew immediately that was incorrect by counting the SIX wires and a coil wire GM never used. I also noticed that the wires were nearly half the length needed for a big block V8. Turns out that they measure out nicely for my own inline six. Likely they were for some sort of oddball aftermarket ignition setup with a separate coil. Price was great. The coil wire should fit a Wheelhorse too! This muffler is said to be USA 🇺🇸 made as well. Origin address was Elkhart IN. Stainless steel. Straight through design. Quality looks good. Inexpensive too. When I get the truck running I'll see what I think of the volume and tone. Might add another one right with it to deepen the tone. I'm particularly excited to have this carburetor. Holley model H4 - 4360. These were known as the Economaster. I'll include a Google description in the next post. These have a small intake capacity of 450 CFM. That's a little scant for a 427 or a 350 at higher RPM but it's excellent for a 300 cubic inch engine. They have mechanical secondaries. I like that quite a lot too. They do take a bit of getting used to in driving. Never just - floor it - unless you're already at a medium to high RPM. This carb is an NOS piece from the late 1970s. The parts are cast in Japan and assembled in the USA. This evening's bonus pic is our 7 year old chicken.

Today I got the exhaust cut & removed from just downstream of the catalytic converters. Those will be removed later. The muffler had an interesting surprise. Upon tilting it to remove it from the truck.. I heard rattling rolling noises. There was at least a dozen and a half acorns in the part of the muffler furthest from the open end. I was unaware that was possible given that this is a stock closed type muffler. Maybe it's in the design. Maybe it's got internal holes it wasn't built with. Doesn't matter because I never intended to leave it on. I also got the unused canister vent and air intake pieces removed from under the hood. Also detached the fuel tank side of the unused vent hose. That'll be rerouted and filtered somehow when the bed is built. When the PO assembled the truck, this intake manifold port was hose attached directly to an upper vacuum port of the carburetor. One vacuum source attached by hose to another vacuum source. It was also thoroughly gunkified with the orange sealant you can see. I have no idea what purpose that would serve. In other news. This is Seamus. He VERY rarely makes appearances while human people are in his barn. Today I lucked out and got a pic.

This morning I spent a couple hours removing the entire computer wiring harness along with the vacuum lines. There were two wires in the whole kit n caboodle that need to stay. Both for sensors/ sending units. One is the oil pressure. The other.... I don't know. It's screwed in to the back of the cylinder head on the passenger side. I also separated the wires coming from the fuse box, ignition switch and dashboard areas. They're marked (what I know) below. Fuse box pic for my own reference. Here's the new and improved cleaner look.

Major changes coming in the engine compartment as well... over the next few months. Yesterday I started sorting out the needed wires from the future usage. Before - ish. ALL of these wires and vacuum lines will be removed. There's one yellow and one black wire that'll be moved to going across the back of the firewall so they are NOT laying across the engine. Same wires, different view. Also, this Air pump and all it's related hoses, pipes, sensors and wires are coming out. This evaporation canister and air cleaner inlet were already dysfunctional so they're being removed. This distributor is being changed to a GM HEI style. The coil in the red circle will also be removed. The fuel pump is just outside the red circle. I'm not sure if I'll leave that or swap to an electric pump yet. It works OK but they have a high failure rate.

Went to see Libby's Service Station where my truck is... Very positive so far. He's using it as a spare time project in between other things, which is exactly what I hoped he would do. Rick has laid out and organized all the parts, and has some of the initial assembly done. He says it all looks OK so far without having attempted actual installation. I'm bringing them a full set of rear brake shoes, springs, and hardware Monday afternoon. We both figured he might as well go right from wheel to wheel with ALL new parts.

This evening we finished cleaning the cable ends. I built a new positive cable from solenoid to starter. Degreased the starter and engine block where the cables attach. Installed a NOS Cole Hersee solenoid from my parts department. Added a new battery hold down. Used a primer bulb to dump a little gasoline into the carburetor bowl through the upper vent. At that point the ole beast started right up.... and the alternator started smoking. No worries there. I knew that was a high probability. I have a new HD alternator set aside with a new wiring harness. The truck is setting in the front yard waiting to be towed to the repair shop tomorrow.

You might wanna bungee that tank somewhere.

If you’re going for the original look and are staying with the steel wheels, I have period correct hub caps for your truck that came off my F-350 SRW they are basically like new.

All cleaned out. Next step is to pull the whole thing backwards a few feet for better front half access and get the rollers out. Reinstall the air cleaner and try to start it.