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I have got tires from them, they add it after you give the card information, pretty high price for slapping a address tags on or add a couple of plastic strap's to hold them together. I look around and couldn't fine any and cheaper. I ordered some OR 360 23 x 10.50 x 12 6ply. The places I found them wanted more without the tax for 4 ply.

There is not much clearance on my 520. I always cut the inside side chain to the exact length and connect the ends with one of these connectors. Then pull the chains to the outside with the cam lock connector and install spring tensioners. This minimizes the thickness of the inside chain.

Morning, Wondering what the best, lowest maintence and resonable cost Wheelhorse patina tractor metal and paint conditioner preserver is.. Have owned my 856 since April and have not even washed it.. been told simple green will help the paint pop.. have watched videos of Boiled linseed oil vs Penetrol.. where penetrol was clear winner for shine after a year on. Aplastic truck bumper. Recommended most welcome. Thank you

I've used both oil and Penetrol. I prefer Penetrol.

Looks great so far to me. You've got a solid machine and it looks like you are doing everything right. Keep it up and this tractor will last another 30+ years!

I just wanna say you guys made a believer outta me! Look at the head bolts, they have Liquid wrench the entire length. That spray, hammer every time you walk by a wait a few days really works! Head bolts all seemed to be the same tightness. 2 whacks with the heel of my hand and they came loose. Put a pick under the head gasket & it popped right off. Exhaust valve has a lot of debris around it. Cylinder walls are smooth, no nicks or gouges. The mule pulley guard nut came off with the same technic. Pulleys spin freely. I don't understand why the belt wouldn't come thru them. Haven't tried the tension adjuster yet. Found the regulator mounting bolts are loose.

I won't say I had to, but I've used spacers on several machines. They work well but you do need to be careful if using a mower deck because of the deck gage wheels clearance. You'll have to ream your bolt holes on your wheels to 1/2. They type of spacer also needs to be open in the center to fit a WH hub. You'll also need to use 7/16x20 bolts at about 1 and 1/4 length or raised head studs to hold the spacers on. I've never had good luck using WH wheel bolts with spacers. The heads are usually too large to get a standard socket on them inside the spacer.

@855project Just an FYI I love E-tanks like your using, but please have adequate ventilation. The bubbles in the tank you see are hydrogen gas which is flammable.

So kinda funny story. I've been working/playing with the C160-8 and 12hp-6 tractors last couple a days. Keep in mind the 160 has separate clutch and brake pedals and the 12hp has clutch and brake on one pedal. I was going down steep grade on the 12hp and clutch spring broke. So, I essentially had a runaway horse going straight for the pond . I went a pretty good ways down the hill before I realized the brake was on the left foot instead of the right. Had to check my bloomers when I got stopped. Never had a clutch spring break before and they will not hold back if there is no spring on there, you can hold pedal back with the heel of your foot but still exciting trying to stop thinking the brake was on my right hand side foot. I was in 3rd on the high side so was moving along pretty good.

I’ve never been used to the two pedal machines. Even the ones I have with two pedals I don’t use much.

Very good idea. I picked one up the other day that will do the trick…much easier than re-welding it surrounded by freshly painted parts, even with all my protective blankets.🤓

Ran out of daylight, but the reassembly fun continues… right now a lot of it is just dry fitting all the parts and making sure all the holes and everything lineup nice and putting things back in the proper order. Was really happy with the way the aluminum dash console cleaned up on the inside… It was quite a mess with corrosion! I was not able to get the pin out of the steering wheel… No matter what I tried… Even a hydraulic press. So I decided to just sever the steering shaft and it will get reinserted and spot welded. Fortunately, I’ve got lots of leather and fireproof blankets to throw over the machine when I weld the steering shaft back together. should make for an interesting video lol.

My Kohler K341s DEFINITELY don't like the cold. They're very hard starting below about 25⁰ Below 0⁰ ..... ? Better than fair chance NO tractor around here is starting without being charged and/ or heated.

What I see is the engine is worn but not worn out. As Don said, there is plenty of good life left in it. The "clean" side of the piston top is common, tends to run a little cooler than the exhaust side. The clean ring does not go completely around the top of the piston - that's good. Rings are somewhat worn but doing their job. Turn the engine over by hand to where the exhaust valve is the highest off the seat. Inspect & clean the valve face & seat. Severe pitting or any cracks require a partial teardown... The metal fire ring is found on the OE head gasket - newer versions do not have it....

I have a K301 that runs great but is stupid loud even with a new muffler. Much louder than a 14 or even FILs 16hp. Valve adjustment made no difference. Figured I'd have to go into it to figure it out...

Nothing unusual jumping out at me from those images. Keep on going! Good to see no erosion of the head or piston near the exhaust valve, too. Lotsa life left in that engine. Note the “fire ring” of metal on the inner circumference of the head gasket. Ideally, your replacement should have the same feature as this makes for the longest-lasting seal.

I'm with Squonk on this one I have a 1979 c-101 (bought new) kept in unheated shed, used for only snow removal now and have used Rotella 30 for many years . No engine problems, a little oil use, not much, but it is almost a 50 year oil engine! Oil changed yearly since it doesn't mow grass anymore but has moved tons of snow in its life.