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I purchase a 20ft wheel horse hauler been busy putting electrical in the inside that I can run a generator for power so I can sleep in it and working on tie downs so I can secure my wheel horse tractors

I built a hub puller a couple of weeks ago, which worked great (see below), but I thought I could improve upon it, so I fabbed up a new version, which has two advantages over the first one: It has a cavity for the hub spigot, so it can be bolted flat against the hub flange, which can add some rigidity to the flange, and it can be used with hubs that have been retrofitted with studs, as well as those that are still using lug bolts. Mine still has lug bolts, but I used a separate set of bolts and washers with the puller, rather than the lug bolts, in order to prevent any damage to the puller plate or to the tapered part of the lug bolts. The center bolt is longer than it needs to be, but that's what I had on hand. I put a dab of anti-seize on the center bolt threads. Previous version of hub puller: New version: Back of puller (I dressed the weld a bit, just for the heck of it): Front of puller:

I’m not opposed to either the pincer or hammer style, but I’ve gone to the soldered on style of lug for the relatively few times I need to make new heavy cables. And, by the way, keep an eye out at tag and garage sales for jumper cables. A good set (heavy, flexible, stranded copper wire) can yield some great battery/starter cables.

Thanks Guys. I took advantage of this warm 56* day to get some outside work done. Cleaned the wood stove and the chimney. Then spread the yard lime. I gave the 520H an hour of much needed exercise until it got too hot in the cab. Then finished with the 312H. Then enjoyed a couple of Mrs. Ks crab cakes and a slice of her apple pie. Feeling blessed to be here with my Kennell Family and my Wheel Horse Family.

January 9, 1960, Construction began on the Aswan High Dam in Egypt, and upon completion in 1970 it generated enormous amounts of electric power and allowed for the control of the annual Nile flood.

I ran into DJ this morning, and he even bought me lunch and a coffee! Thanks @hcminis, it was great to run into a familiar face after a 4 hour drive for some car parts!

... You know the Rules...

Yup! I can relate to that. Seem most folks love the idea but when it's time to put the cash on the table, it becomes an issue. It's like dealing with Midgets wearing Cargo Pants. The money is in the pocket, but they just can't get the hand deep enough in there to reach it !!

I think the only way to make anything like a profit on something like this would be to crank them out with something like a CNC laser or plasma cutter and CNC lathe/mill, and you'd have to sell a lot of them to get the unit price down. I like your idea of a removeable handle to prevent the puller from rotating when turning the puller bolt (or if you need to rotate the axle or tighten something else). On mine, I left most of the big hex nut exposed so that you could put a box-end wrench on it while turning the puller bolt with another wrench.

I made a similar one that I considered marketing but the material cost and hours were high and I doubt that it would sell for the price I would need.

Today I plowed off what my nephew didn't get last night off my driveway with the 308. While I was at it took out the C-141 for a ride and got it mildly stuck on slush/ice. I also figured I'd stretch the legs on my ATV as well and in the process of plowing moved my Snowmobile to plow around it. Then took that for a spin.

All: Inspired by the lengthy thread started by @Blue Chips, and not desiring to hijack it..... Several folks showed versions of Hub Pullers of their own design. Others commented that they should fabricate more and sell them. The common consensus was that there was not enough "Meat on the Bone" to do so and still cover expenses, never mind generate a healthy profit.... I recently posted about machining a C Series front axle to receive Flanged and Straight Bushings. I have offered this service for over 5 years at a flat shop fee of $100. Let's break down what you get for your crisp Benjamin..... The terms are as follows: You supply a rebuildable axle and spindles. An axle with holes wallowed out more than 1/16" will require a different one be supplied. Spindles with moderate wear can be welded up & recut. You purchase the six Bushings / Thrust Washers of your choice first. Shipping the axle assembly both ways is on you. There are three different setups required to renew the axle; Center Pivot, Right Spindle Bore, and Left Spindle Bore. The last two are referenced off the finished Pivot... Fixturing the axle casting is tedious. Most of the machined reference surfaces are either worn or being cut. About as adventuresome as trying to clamp down a Fire Axe. Each setup required about an hour to define the original centerline, clamp in at least 3 places and recheck. THEN you turn on the Milling Machine. And remember you need to mill the underside of the spindle bosses to allow room for the thrust flange so the upper Snap ring fits... All told, complete machining and assembly requires 4 to 5 hours. I still need to pay the Electric Bill for the lights & 2HP Miller. Ditto, I buy any expendable tooling (drills, reamers, new grease fittings, steel shims). And the filler rod, shield gas and electric to TIG weld the worn spindles.. As mentioned, I get a flat $100.... for 4 or more hours of Shop Time. My Electric Bill has close to doubled in 5 years without me adjusting the price. To put it in real world perspective - The Machine Shop where I last worked charged $120 PER HOUR. That is for setup and cutting time, or time on the phone if a problem with the supplied parts comes up. At 2019 prices. So???

Prowling around somewhere or another I saw this seat mentioned. Looked like something I wanted to try so I bought one. Got it in the mail yesterday and I like it so much I ordered two more. At or just below freezing in the shop and the material feels reasonably soft and supple. Will it last? I have no idea. We will see what it does at 0° or below. On a low back versus high back seat I could go either way as far as looks. For a practical nature however, I prefer a low back seat. Two reasons: 1. It's easier for me to get on and off the tractor without the seat back being in the way. 2. I've said it before and I'll repeat it here. Your entire muscle and bone and tendon structure is literally, use it or lose it. One of the biggest reasons, if not THE biggest reason, that most of us experience injuries is because we have failed over the years to use our people chassis correctly. Engage. Your. Core. Muscles. As often as possible. I'm talking as close to 100% of the time as possible. Yes it takes training. Just do it. That's another reason why I prefer a low back seat. It forces me to use my core muscles to hold my body upright while driving. Here's some pics. This particular one I got off of Wally World but it looks like they're available from multiple sources. It was just under $54 shipped.

Just as a point of information for those reading this thread. The way you stated that sentence is actually very important. As a general rule it is not recommended to use solder on a joint that will experience vibration. Because of your limited use and relative decent usage area I don't see it being an issue for you. With our tractors being used on our rough twisted uneven terrain I would not use a soldered connection.

At work I use a hydraulic crimper. For at home I bought a set of these and used a grinder to round off the cutting edge. Works great & low price. https://www.menards.com/main/hardware/fasteners-connectors/fastener-accessories/tool-shop-reg-nut-splitter-2-piece/ts-dg-2ns/p-1642874299975476-c-19360.htm

I buy the PosiFlo because they seem to last and they are made in Elmira NY USA

When threading the bolts into the hubs, Back up the back side with heavy washers and nuts from like McMaster-Carr

Nice job chips! I have the bush mechanics 20 dollar version. (that full threaded bolt is pricey) I have never busted any newer hubs and had a few stubborn ones. I just give it the onions.

Had I little time to put more pieces on brake band and pulley the transmission drive pulley and the clutch lever assembly on

blue chips...nice job!!! lynnmor...i have found that buying high quality tools always saves time and money in the long run. example: i bought a cheapo harbor freight ball joint press kit. i actually bent and distorted the 'C' clamp. one day i saw the snap-on truck. the driver said the master ball joint press kit was going on sale in two weeks. the snap-on kit was about 11-12 times as much as the HF kit. worth every penny. far superior! plus, when i'm trying to fix a tractor/car/truck i do not want to have to fix my tools first.

Hey when you're out there find me a Senior... enough with @Pullstart gettin all the Michigan ones...

I'll look into possible options. I think the main thing is to prevent the end of the bolt from getting mashed and to prevent damage to the hub from the twisting bolt. A roller-type thrust bearing would reduce effort, but it would have to be a pretty small bearing. Maybe a sintered bronze oil-impregnated washer between the end of the bolt and an inserted bolt head...or something like that.

The only “attachments” are the clamp and a press fit where the tube fits into a hole in the transaxle flange above the F plate.

Pliers and some colorful language should get the tube out after the clamp is removed. What kind of monster fuel pump did you put on there?

Installed some seat springs on the 73 12hp-8 today No Name. Robbed these off a 73 14hp-H No Name. Rob Peter to pay Paul . The 14hp-H is/was a running mochine when I drove it in the shed, smoked a little but ran and had strong Hydro.

Hydro tranny with foot pedal motion control and hydraulic lift...only way to plow when you have 5 driveways to clear. My 312 H at work last year .312H snow plowing - Wheel Horse Tractors - RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum

It is ... nothing like holding on that wheel and lookin down the hood of a long frame '67 ..

I get it. For someone not conversant in the details of the process, it can look crazy. But there is a LOT going on.

On thinking about it, I agree that sintered bronze might not hold up to the crush load. If it were a straight-on compressive load, it might hold up OK, but if it's between two rotating parts under a heavy load (which is a likely scenario), it would be more likely to fail, particularly with repeated use. Sintered 863 iron-copper might hold up better than sintered bronze, but as you mentioned, I think a couple of grade 8 flat washers with a dab of friction-reducing compound would work fine. I haven't used ZX1, and they seem pretty tight-lipped about what kind of EP additive(s) are used in it. I have a variety of anti-seize compounds containing EP additives like PFPE/PTFE (Krytox grease), graphite, MOS2, suspended metals (Zn, Cu), lithium, etc., but I think that almost any kind of anti-seize compound or EP grease would be adequate, as long as it results in slippage between the washers rather than against the hub or the end of the puller's center bolt. I'm generally of that opinion as well, as there is a strong tendency (with occasional exceptions due to marketing hype) to get what you pay for. I rarely buy a cheap tool, but I do make an occasional exception if I see something that gives unusually good value for the money, and the 'real' thing is beyond my budget. I think that bolting the puller plate tightly against the flange helps rigidize and strengthen the flange, but it certainly doesn't hurt to spread the load out even more by backing it with thick washers, as you and @squonk said.

Where the tube goes into the F plate can be very tight, I had one that just wouldn't go in and drilling was impossible since the metal was so hard. You might try going under and hammer it out using a punch but that might destroy it. Of course penetrating oil could help. I know that some use those cheapy pumps, I had no idea that they were so large. I haven't found a reasonable place to locate electric pumps on a 520H since I want the rear lift, perhaps the Facet square pumps are the best option. Did you ever notice that when you stop cranking, then wait a few seconds, it will start as soon as you hit the key again? All four of mine act that way, I don't know if the spark weakens or the fuel continues to flow for a bit after cranking. I use full choke and half throttle for a cold start, then push the choke off as soon as it starts, sometimes it needs a quick jab of choke if it starts to die.

I open up a flaring bar and lay the terminal in the appropriate slot. Hit the terminal with a blunt chisel and hammer.

I have wrestled with these leaking many times and not had much luck in getting them to quit. Since replacements are readily available I just replace them. Especially on tractors that they are hard to get at. replacements

I'm gonna follow along on this because I've been wanting to get a battery cable setup for a long time and just never pulled the trigger.

This was done last summer. PTO pulley assembly ready to install. PTO inner bearing and seal greased with full synthetic EP220. PTO inner bearing race lightly greased. PTO pulley slid onto bearing race. I had to rotate and gently slide it on to let the air out that wanted to push it off again. PTO pin installed. PTO trunion screwed onto lightly greased rod. PTO trunion installed into pivot plate after screwing it in just enough that the clutch engages with a little tension. This may need to get adjusted again later once an implement is hooked up. Note the washer under the hairpin clip, I may even put in a thicker one to take up all excess play. PTO in disengaged position. Note the gap between the pulley and clutch. PTO in engaged position. Note that the pulley is tight to clutch plate.

This deserves being restated. I have personally cracked an HD hub because it was stuck so bad. I have now gotten into the habit of threading a nut with a couple of thick washers onto the back of all five lug holes on the Hub being pulled.

If you do that, use a Viton O-Ring, not Buna-N.

I had a leaking shut off valve on my 14-8 no name. I picked out the old O ring/paking, then took the valve stem to the hardware and found an O ring that would fit on the valve stem. Put the nut on the stem and rolled the O ring over the threads then put the valve back together. That was about 5 years ago. Still holding.

Cut off a bit of your leather shoe string on your hunting boots. They do make packing material, hopefully it is still available in the plumbing section of your favorite hardware store.

You all have some mighty fine equipment out there. The problem is you all are too far away for me to drop in just before supper! While I'm new to pellet smokers, I've had the smoker below since 1992. It was a Brinkman smoker that we took to the Philippines and when it rusted out I had it remade in stainless steel. The lid is original. I can use charcoal, wood or electric. In the first picture the red part is electric and the section below is where i put the smoke generator. It does a really good job of maintaining 225 degrees In the second picture we are using it as a heating stove burning firewood inside. The third picture shows the smoker over a bed of coals baking turnovers. I've made a blower that I used to bake bread. In the Philippines the charcoal was actually coconut hulls. With a blower below the smoker, I could maintain the 350 degrees. We hired sisters, one was the cook, the other cleaned. Luz, the cook, would say on a Saturday morning "Sir, let's bake bread today." So I'd fire up the smoker, bake a couple loaves (We made a few bricks in the beginning.) then throw on a slab of pork ribs. Good memories. And, homemade bread with a little touch of smoke is awful hard to beat. This is lightweight, fairly compact and goes every time I go camping. I've got a Kamado grill, the pellet smoker and this ugly old thing and it's still my favorite.

I do have a CNC mill, the cost of quality steel is the major obstacle. I too have a newer version partially designed, it will have features to solve a number of pulling problems besides just a hub puller. Perhaps that might make the cost more palatable but the cost would be even higher since the machining will take longer and small accessory parts would need to be supplied..

That's where I started needing glasses - my arms weren't long enough to read a book anymore. Pretty sure I'm going to still need readers once everything heals up. Been looking at 1/2 lens reading glasses on the interweb today.

That is very nice.

Thrust bearing?

Not yet, but it wouldn't be hard to put some kind of a simple 'bearing' at the end by drilling a hole in the end of the bolt and inserting a T-cross section piece (like a bolt head) and maybe a washer as well. I may look into that.

MIA! Yes, will do! I may have to extend the width on the drive pulley side by 2” It’s relatively simple and fairly inexpensive material. Time to just grin and bear it! My hands aren’t what they used to be. Template: I did go with 4” under the drive pulley 1-1/8” on the 90° x 9-1/8”

You ever get a sudden desire to pop up to Maine lemme know. I have 3 hydros here of various types in various stages that need new homes.

PTO clutch plate ready to be installed. PTO clutch plate slid onto bearing race and bolt holes aligned. PTO clutch plate retainers inserted into bearing race groove then bolts partly threaded in. PTO clutch plate bolts torqued to 96 in/lb. Wife caught me torquing the PTO clutch plate bolts.

Lots of runnin' today so it was a walk by, spray, hammer kinda day. I've been known to be abusive with hammers, so I got my little one.