Leaderboard

At the end of summer last year my D-160 started weeping fuel like a SR-22 Black Bird sitting on the tarmac waiting for take off. Today I decided to pull the tank & see what was going on. After a good wire brushing things did not look good. Figured that I would try silver soldering the holes & low spots up. Took some time, don't look real pretty but at this point I believed that I had it sealed up. Here is a trick to check your work if you do some thing like this. Make a paste out of water & baking soda. Brush it over your work and allow it to dry. Once it is dry put some gas in the tank and allow it to sit. If you have a leak the past will show exactly where it is. It will turn yellowish where ever the gas seeps through.. My paste stayed nice & white except for 2 little spots that were stained by left over flux. These spots did not grow when I put gas in the tank so it should be ready to install again. Just wanted to share this leak detecting trick with you all.

April 27, 2009, the struggling American auto giant General Motors (GM) says it plans to discontinue production of its more than 80-year-old Pontiac brand. Pontiac’s origins date back to the Oakland Motor Car, which was founded in 1907 in Pontiac, Michigan, by Edward Murphy, a horse-drawn carriage manufacturer.

Got the donor frame/ hydro cleaned up this evening. It was really nasty so I just loaded it and went to the car wash.

One other tip for you. Run the two nuts towards the front of the plow & lock them together. Make sure that you can spin the handle freely. This allows you to adjust the plow without tools. You may ask "Won't it get out of adjustment while plowing ?'" Answer is "No", look at how worn down the share is on the upper plow in the pic below. I have never had it move on me in all the time that I have used this plow.

They are also known as grenade gears for a reason, and you don't even have to pull a pin.

Got the 1076 and the tiller running and tilled the garden. Works fine but it is quite different pulling a tiller vs pushing my front mounted tiller. Now I need to install them both on the same tractor.

I bought a 418-A years ago and never used and no plans to so will sell now. Bought from 85 year old guy who bought it new. Has 70 hours on it and the guy got upset that I questioned it. Said he had multiple health issues, divorce, house moves etc and hardly used it. It is far from mint but its super nice and cant of course be positive thats the original hours. Had to steal the deck off to put on mine to mow with so thats gone. Seeing as its kinda unique, I dont know how to value it to sell. Never been to the big show so was thinking maybe will bring there. Do they have a For Sale area there or a Auction that weekend? Thought if so it`ll get what the fair price is...... Thanks for any info....... Jim

There is definity not an auction held at the show. Theres tractors for sale all over the show grounds. Just drive it in and slap a for sale sign on it with your name and cell (hopefully Verizon!) Best bet is to price it a bit high but add in “OR BEST OFFER”…then see what you get offered. If it’s priced obscenely high it’ll just scare off potential buyers that won’t even bother to make an offer.

I don't have any prior knowledge or experience with this plow as I will be a first-time user. Need some help please. I brought this well used plow, which I believe is a Brinly PP-500 series as the exploded part view seems to match up with my plow. Completely disassembled the plow, removed all rust, primed, painted, (wheel horse red of course) and re-assembled with new fasteners. Having trouble with the coulter blade, as it doesn't seem to fit this plow? Please refer to the pictures below. It appears to mount only one way, but it seems too big for this plow. Do I have the right size coulter blade? What am I am doing wrong? Also is the front yoke assembly mounted correctly? Thanks

We put the left side of the tractor up on 4 inch blocks to mimic the tractor being in a furrow when making this adjustment. Might not be necessary as usually always some adjustment to be made in the field depending on soil conditions. Kevin likes to put a heavy coat of anti seize on the adjuster threads ... As far as the coulter goes we seldom run a coulter. They are not needed unless cutting sod or heavy weeds so most often we flip them upside down in the clamp or take them off completely. They will ball up with field trash if in a cut cornfield with high stalks or other situations.. Wadda ya know about that @Pullstart !?!?! You want that to be shiney enough to shave in. Only good way to get a good shine on it is using it after prepping. @Achto uses a special paint designed for mold boards that comes off in the field. @PeacemakerJack has a excellent thread here on plowing see if I can find it.

Nice resto, now get a flap wheel out and clean the paint off that moldboard face Notice how @Achto has grease covering his plows? The paint will stick to the dirt like glue and gum up. The shiny plow will run smooth and turn the dirt. Then grease the plow again after completion of the job.

Well, they all got some sun this weekend. One got to mow, one was on trailer moving duty, and one said, "WTH? I thought I was your favorite!"

Helped a few chicks. They were having trouble navigating the curb so I gave thema lift.

A little chilly but a great way to kick off the tractor show season! The usual crowd Myself, Wallfish, Retired Wrencher and Docwheelhorse. No tractors bought by any of us. I did pick up the NOS belt in a sealed bag. No idea what it’s for but brand new in the bag! No brainer for $5…good wall hanger

I improved on the console hand control om my 520-H.

I only use Till Guard on show pieces, grease is cheaper. \ The Till Guard is nice for a show plow, don't have to worry about getting grease all over during travels. Yet if you wish to use the plow, this coating will scour right off when put to use.

I got a old pony keg if it needs a new tank...

Not when I partake in Dan's elixir anyway ...

I have a little Milwaukee M18 Hatchet as they call it. It is full auto oil and works great. I also have it's bigger brother.

Also turn that hairpin cotter pin around or the dirt will push it out, or use a standard cotter pin. Your plow looks awesome by the way 👍🏻 Almost too nice to get dirty, but hey they meant to get dirty!!

Another tip: See your first pic of the non-restored plow. See the adjustment screw? Compare the exposed threads with the restored-plow pics. That will get you in the ballpark.

My parents have an Electric DeWalt saw that looks more like a traditional saw. It gets used a lot by them and by me. The electric stuff does come in handy.

Used my 314-8 and Wheel Horse Tiller attachment at our county museum today. Two garden plot areas where tilled for the planting of prairie grasses and wildflower. I learned the split rail fence around the plots is called West Virginia Split Rail!

Raffle tractor is coming along! The motor is coming along, its getting refreshed with all new and rebuilt ignition and fuel system parts. Tickets will be for sale soon. Stay tuned!

No auction. You may sell if you are a Wheel Horse Collectors Club member. Only Wheel Horse products are allowed on the grounds.

I have the door frames built and hung. I am brainstorming my method of door closure. If possible, I’d like to prevent any more holes in the concrete. However, I have no other access to latch from the inside. Then, I’ll install bottom trim and the sheet steel.

Tires look like they have more than 70 hrs. on them

Don't let @wallfish anywhere near it unless you paint big letters on it that says "GAS"

Spec # 46333 used in !1056 and 1057 did not have balance gears (Variation 1) What is the Spec # of your 241

Oh joy! Working with lead free solder is a whole new animal...... much safer, but requires getting used to. Lead free does not go from shiny when wet to dull when solidified - it stays dull throughout the entide process. Tougher to gauge just what stage it is...

Sorry, no help on the OT. We had a rig similar to this with all Coleman 17' Ram-Xs.

Here's the manual I have saved for my Brinly plows. It will describe how to adjust yours. Good luck!!! Plowing is FUN!!! (when it's adjusted correctly!!) PP_51BH.pdf

After using a wire brush on a drill to get the metal super clean. I warmed the tank up & gave it a good coat of paste flux. Used a mini torch to heat the metal and used a silver bearing solder for metal work. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Harris-Products-Group-3-oz-Lead-Free-General-Metal-Solder/1000858196

love my Dewalt electric chainsaw and pole saw... Auto oil... really does the job.

In due time. Everything is for sale eventually Mike @mrc

Gonna run it the way it is now. This tractor is far from original, it's our 2 seater butt buggy at shows. The tank is all beat to heck. If it leaks again it will be replaced with an 8x18 spun aluminum tank.

While it's off, maybe time to slosh some RedKote or similar tank sealer on the inside....

Welcome!! Is it stuck in two gears at the same time?? It can happen, particurly with the early Unidrives (it was addressed in later versions). Do a search in the "Transmissions" section for that issue. It is able to be corrected but requires removing the shifter to realign the forks.

After work, I pulled the group out for a triple side shot Sunday, test mowed the lawn and washed the winter salt off the 308. I’m thinking the mowing deck on the 312 needs work as it’s pretty loud. I’ve got time off coming up so maybe I’ll look at it then.

More like spewing up from a clogged drain.

Variable compression? It’s a 9.5/9.7:1 design. Hybrid, if you will.

I was just minding my own business and I get a message request on Messenger. Older gentleman asks me if I would be interested in this 1964 704, his grandpa had bought it new. We chatted and he found me from my many responses on Facebook groups and figured I would be the one that would be able to save it. He told me make an offer. So because I already have too many and a non original 704 already. I made a offer and He said come and get it.. needs carb/fuel pump cleaned up but has spark. Should have it running before Memorial Day Parade. A little cleaning up and Patina will be in great shape. Always garaged and only ever mowed during its life.

If I was a betting man, I would say it needs another carb cleaning. Its running way lean if you have to keep a half choke maneuver on it. A way lean condition will make it run way hotter than it's supposed to.

Welcome to Red Square. Here is a link to 18 subjects on your model. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=72200&quick=1&type=downloads_file

I screwed up a couple pieces. Or they aren’t screwed up. I had to order a couple more pieces, but can still work on the front.

This morning we had a visit from a sharp shinned hawk. They're closely related to, and similar in coloring to, a coopers hawk. The main difference is size. A "sharpy" is a bit larger than an average blue jay. A coopers is more in the range of a crow. The other difference is the preferred hunting areas for each. The sharpy is an open field hunter while the cooper prefers more wooded places like a loosely treed forest. We've been expanding our open space here so we see more of the birds that like those spaces. Bluebirds as well.

I’m sure there have been threads started specifically for this topic on here and if the moderators want to combine this with one of those, please do. Per @Daron1965‘s request, I’ll start a thread about my personal favorite attachment for a Garden Tractor—the furrow plow. I want to state clearly here that I don’t claim to be an authority on this subject. Maybe like doctors “practice medicine”, I find myself “practicing with a Brinly” every time that I head out into a field. I’m going to tag a few of my buddies like @Achto @WHX20 @Shynon @prondzy @Stormin @WVHillbilly520H (If i’ve Forgotten you, not my intention, please join the discussion) Who are all “plow dogs” in that they enjoy climbing into the furrows and turning earth for extended periods of time! I hope that they will weigh in here with their experiences and things that they have done with their rigs and plows. Pictures will definitely welcome and encouraged in this thread, both for instruction and coolness factor. It is funny how people look at someone on a garden tractor turning under a field! I wish I had a dollar for every time someone uninitiated said to me, “I didn’t think you could do that with a lawnmower!” Many folks today have seen people blading with a GT, mowing with a GT, blowing with a GT, but when they see someone plowing with one—they are often shocked. Our culture has moved so far from the agregarian society that people aren’t familiar with it. I bought a 10” Brinly two weeks ago from a buddy who brought it to my Uncle’s Farm day. It was a vey cost efficient price. Apparently, he found it at a garage sale. The person had painted it all black and was using it for a yard ornament because they had no idea what it was for. The first thing I want to make clear about plowing with a GT: GROUND CONDITIONS ARE OF UTMOST IMPORTANCE! If you are trying to plow red or blue clay that hasn’t seen a drop of rain in two months—Don’t Even waste your time. You won’t have fun, you won’t have very good success, and you’ll probably break your tractor in the process! Also, be aware that a garden will traditionally plow easier than a field because the field gets compacted throughout the year with large equipment that weigh anywhere from 5 ton to 20 and more. If the soil is too wet when you are trying to plow it will stick to everything unless it is a real sandy soil. This soil here was quite sandy but was still as hard as a rock. We had trouble getting the plows to suck in. When a plow is only cutting a 2” deep furrow, the geometry of the plow isn’t correct and the next pass or tractor in the furrow is acting more like a chisel plow than a moldboard plow. One of the awesome things about GT plow days, is the opportunity to share the experience with some buddies. Rarely do we get together to blow snow or cut lawn. I like GT shows but I like plow days better. Why? Because not only do we get to look at cool tractors or show off our own, we get to use them and see them in operation. Here my Uncle Roger is using his 314-8 to turn my garden. He was cutting a 6-7” deep furrow with his 10” Brinly and it was doing a beautiful job. This soil is a sandy loam and the moisture content was perfect. One problem with most WH’s as a plow tractor—they are way too light in the front. If you want to do any SERIOUS plowing with one, you need at least a good 60-70#’s or more of front end weight. I’m running 3- 22# weights on my front attach-a-matic and a pair of cast front wheel weights on GhostRider. When I first plowed with him, I couldn’t keep the front down! I was tempted to sit on the hood and look backwards over my shoulder . Power is important and it is good to have a strong running engine. However, there is no need for 25hp when a strong K301 will pull a 12” Brinly in moderate soil conditions with proper adjustments and weight all day. Size your plow to your tractor and it’s power. Comanche is an 8hp Tractor and an 8” Plow is suited well to it. I regularly run the Punisher(my 12” Brinly) behind GhostRider (my 314-8). Conditions were nearly perfect this particular day. I was cutting a 6-8” furrow (notice the lean angle on the tractor) and the soil had just the right amount of moisture to scour really well. Tires are important. I like the modern Carlisle TruPower on the left but I know that Tom and Mike swear by Firestone 23’s and I can’t wait for them to weigh in on their experiences. Dan and I have been discussing the pros and cons of tire width. Too wide and your tractor floats more and then it takes more weight to keep it from spinning. Too skinny and you don’t have enough bite in the ground. A clean moldboard is also very important especially if the soil is sticky at all. If you buy a used Brinly and the moldboard and plowshare are all rusty, I’d suggest cleaning them up some with a wire wheel on a grinder or a drill before using it. The dirt in the field will do the rest. I love the mirror shine that Dan has on his plow here! You know the plowing was good when you leave the field and your plow looks like this and your rear tire like that! I have a lot more to say but I have a few other things to take care of right now and so I’ll check back in later...