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e Delivered the 314A to a new owner today. The young lady was in dire need of a tractor to do the first mowing.

April 20, 2008 Danica Patrick driving for Andretti Green Racing wins the Indy Japan 300 at Twin Ring Motegi; first female driver in history to win an IndyCar Series race.

More thoughts assuming the pressure and flow is the same on both sides of the piston. 1. the extending stroke generates more force than the retracting stroke 2. the rod is in compression during the extending stroke 3. the rod is more subject to bending when in compression 4. the single stage rod can be nearly as large as the piston as very little force is required to retract the piston 4. the dual stage requires the rod to be much smaller than the piston to generate a working force when retracting.

My neighbor takes care of two gardens. The one shown in the video and one twice as large in my yard (in photo). I found him a good deal on a nice tiller complete with all the idler pulleys. He couldn't be happier!

When doing static timing I prefer to use a battery powered contanuity test light. Seeme like I respond more quickly to the light than a buzzer, when I hear a buzzer I look for the snooz button.

You need to have the points break open on the " S " mark and not the " T " Otherwise the timing will be late.

Looonng first post.... LOTS to write.... For several years we've been considering an upgrade to our old wood splitter. It's a very well (re)built decades old unit that was home shop rebuilt in 2012 by a local logger. After 14 seasons of splitting it's understandably getting tired. We started a thread here, got some great info. We researched on other sites and spoke to our favorite small engine repair place. We decided that it would need the entire hydraulic system replaced and a new larger engine to meet the goals. Not at all opposed to this but it would easily cost $2,000 +. While doing research online we found a couple dual action splitters. Very intriguing. We started a thread on that here: ..... And again learned some great information along with creating some additional thought processes. We decided to get the Boss model over the HF model because of several factors. 1. Kohler engine on the Boss. 2. Too many pivot/ wear points on the HF. 3. Hydraulic control lever is centered on the Boss vs one sided operation in the HF. This is a very convenient feature for Trina in particular because she's prone to jumping around wherever the workload can be accomplished the best. 4. Overall frame strength and build quality appears better on the Boss than the HF according to multiple online sources. 5. The Boss is certified for road towing. The HF is not. (We'll visit that below) The new Boss splitter arrived this week. Overall it looks good. I agree with #4 above. The welds are solid. The frame is good thick steel. The cylinder is encapsulated in a square slider tube which is encapsulated in the frame. Purely a flat surface sliding design with no bearings. @Ed Kennell Grease will be applied. Often. @peter lena North American design but made in china. Build quality is reasonable except for a few things. The trailer tongue mount is too narrow for the main frame. We had to use washers to set the tongue to one side and add longer bolts to the other side. I WOULD NOT tow this unit on the road the way it's sent. IMHO it was not safe. That - quite frankly - pi$$ed me off. This side is flush. This side is not. See the space difference... Now imagine trying to "tighten" that enough to close the space using low quality hardware... or even great quality hardware. Not happening buster. The entire hardware package is the unfortunate cheap trash we see all too often on cheap items. Nut & bolt head sizes are inconsistent (WTH??) and lacking quality. I upgraded several bolts, added washers, and replaced the disgustingly lightweight axle castle nuts with better quality pieces. We were unable to drive the steel press fit axle dust caps in so we popped the plastic ones back on. This is fine unless/until we ever need to road tow it. The axle inner seal surface isn't even properly machined. If this was going to be towed often or long distance it would eat seals. Fast. After using it for only a few minutes it's developed an issue already. Like many splitters, It has a two stage hydraulic system. When the pressure reaches a certain level the system changes from high speed low pressure to low speed high pressure. This one WAS working like that. Now it starts high speed. Goes low speed and stays there. Shut it off and move the lever to release system pressure. Restart and repeat. I'm hoping it's an adjustment, not a defective part. We've run some decent sized beech wood through it. That went well. Power level seems good. We're thinking it should be faster though. That may be related to the above issue or possibly because it's new and needs to break in. Or.... it's just slower than we hoped. Again, overall I believe it'll be a good addition once the bugs are worked out. The work habits obviously are very different from a single action to this dual action. The fact that one can use both directions is very nice. Very weird at first too. Once a different and properly adjusted set of habits is developed we can see a new kind of usefulness. We did get the additional cross piece to split horizontally. It has its place but also has its challenges. The second split is nice IF the pieces of wood separate correctly. Because we use a lot of beech wood, that isn't practical much of the time. I'll document repairs and changes in this thread. Some changes we figured on making even before purchase, no matter what splitter we got. 1. Wheel size, tongue height & length increase. The OE tires are 4.00/4.80 x 8. Seems most splitters are standard at that. I'd likely add a set of 5 lug hubs and increase to a full size tire like we did on the other splitter. Tongue height and length will be adjusted to level and to compensate for the additional table length..(Next comment) 2. Larger flat work table. As you can see in the last picture above there are small catch shelves on the sides. The principal is good. The upward angle is actually a bit of a challenge to work with. The wood pieces want to fall back into the work area. Remember gravity? We're thinking about adding a much larger, flat work table to catch the pieces on both sides. Start the split. Set one half aside. Work with the other. Have plenty of space to move the shrinking pieces around and off the table.

If you need to hold the front with pliers, wrap it with several layers of duct tape ti prevent damage.

That's where I start but have been known to spearmint and try different settings just to see if I can make them run/start a little better.

sweet dreams

Just use pliers on it. It will come off. Be careful not to use pliers on the front or it will scar it a bit. Sometimes it's easier if you remove the four screws hold the dash panel on. You will get more maneuverability

With the "Ejector Seat" lever on the lower left!!

I get ours from Aircraft Spruce & Specialty. They have several types of valves, grommets, and the good quality electric fuel pumps available. Pricing is excellent. Service as well.

@FLtractor Take a peek at these offerings by Redo. I used one on the Indy. METAL DASH PLATE DECALS - Redo Your Horse

Been using these for quite a few years now. About $12.00/4. I can change a lot of bearings and still be ahead but I haven't had to yet.

Been using these guys for quite a few years now. About $12.00/4. I can change out a lot of bearings and still be ahead but they are holding up great and haven't needed to.

We were just discussing these.

Just remember first that has been there for 60 years. Judging by the picture that you sent definitely original.A small chisel to brake it free. Done many of these. Once you brake it a way from the locking washer use two hands to spin the nut off. If you buying a new one there will be a big nut instead that thin spin on locking washer.

I find if you go to a bearing dealer you can get a better bearing. I am lucky enough to have two dealers in town I live in. Bearings like Timkin! This company has been in business for many years. Where I used to work, the maintenance crew guys that I knew very well always used Timpkin bearings for repairs.

You don't need to buy a new generator, taking the top off of the regulator the is a way to adjust it so it puts out more. However, before you do that, I'd suggest cleaning up all your grounds. I.e, the generator mount onto the engine, where the ground wire goes. If that don't work, you can go through the generator fairly easily with some skf 6203 bearings from Amazon and a brush and spring kit, I don't know the p/n right now. I'll upload a video on how to go through them If none of this works, you may need to do as my dad and I did and look up a starter generator repair/rebuild shop local to you. Ours ended up being both a bad regulator and bad armature

If it seems to be running in the low flow/high pressure circuit only, there may be an external relief adjustment (not the main system pressure relief at the valve). You would see something on the pump body externally. Most of the pumps I have seen are fixed valving for the stage operation. The speed difference in the stages of the pump operation are quite noticeable, and if you say it returned to normal operation after you relieve the system flow, I'm wondering if you have a sticky valve in the pump. Of course, the speed and force of the actions in either direction will be different due to the volumetric differences as others have noted. That is entirely normal. Losing one stage of the pump is not.

Put a ad in wanted guy. If your in MN might want to check with Parts N More he may have something. Numbers on his website. https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/shop-now/

There's a mental image I didn't need before bed!

We've see a lot worse and should make for some good workers. Shame about the damage tho like to know what the hell the damage doer was thinking!

The tractor looks awesome Dan!! I get the engine problems can definitely be frustrating but you will figure it out! I think you are on the right track of the engine issue. The best timing setting I got was using the continuity beeper on a multimeter and setting the points with that. Lining up the S mark on the flywheel, just barely get the beeping to stop by adjusting the points and tighten them down. So they open exactly when you want them to.

Thats kind of a given… duh!!

Good advice, thanks. Clean those grounds and fuses. I had to do that exact thing on our old 8N ford's solenoid, when I drug it home, it had a bad ground....a few min with a wire brush and it worked fine. You would think I would have thought of that in this case but, I didn't.

Before you go out on a shopping spree check the fuse holders and fuses. There is a 30 amp fuse between the battery and the ignition switch and the battery acid fumes fro battery recharging will corode the fuse holders over time. To see if the solenoid is good run a small jumper from the small terminal on the solenoid to the battery + post, if it cranks over the solinoid is good. A little trouble shooting can save you some money.

Makes troublesooting soooooooooooo easy, the problem is the BLACK wire, can't go wrong.

Ah ok, I see it has a starter solenoid. (duh). We piped some gas to the pump (main fuel line is plugged up) put the key to on, bridged the selonoid posts and bingo... runs like a new one. So, I need a solenoid and, maybe a new ignition switch if it doesnt hit the new solenoid. Thanks for that wire diagram.

Yes or if you wanted to do it like the wiring diagram says run the positive wire to the L terminal, far left, on the regulator and the negative wire to the negative on the battery.

There's a nut you tighten to make that latch movement a little stiffer. I was driving along a few years back and didn't notice that lever vibrated rearward. Next thing I knew the tractor was 10 feet in front of me and pulling away!

It’s not exact but very similar, should go little something like this pic of my 1257.

An old picture of my 1257 when my dad got it many years ago.

Rage: Yeah, thanks for the info. My cardiologist told me to keep exercising ( obviously not to the point of exertion ). So I'm trying to keep moving. The guy doing my valve pioneered this procedure, and he did over 200 of those aortic valve replacements last year.

17HP Kawasaki

@Chris689 make a regular habit of penetrating oil spray down , of any , dry / faded / neglected paint ? soak it down and forget it , let the penetrants do their thing , usually a darker shade developes , showing you what's there , then what i do is to use a mineral oil clean cloth rub down , no rough action , just a total , refresh of darkened paint , if the paint does not easily , break thru with a color change , fine , leave it in the vintage stage , seams like everyone wants to instantly recover a show queen , everything I have is , recovered / maintained , original paint , looks the way it should be for the years of service . very east to experiment with this idea , thats how I started , stay oily , pete

FWIW — I had my mitral and aortic valves replaced 28 years ago. My surgery was NOT “minimally invasive”; 6-8 inch opening in my chest which was wired back together (makes for really impressive chest x-rays). I would not be here now without that surgery; in my case my left ventricle was to the point of losing pumping efficiency due to enlargement (leaking mitral valve). I was only 46 at the time and feeling fine but on restricted activity; took 2-3 months of recovery which didn’t feel good; several trips back to the hospital for some know postoperative issues (chest congestion). My layman’s understanding was that the open thoracic surgery was a major factor in my extended recovery. Your minimally invasive procedure should lessen those. Get the valve replaced!! I went from restricted activity pre-surgery to being told by my heart doctor to get off my butt and do whatever I wanted (back to playing basketball for me).

That is a nice tiller and appreciate when someone try’s to sell everything a buyer would need to operate the attachments. One small note for potential buyers. The cable tube (curved) and the longer clevis for the cable is specifically for a for hydro Wheel Horse. The lift tube (straighter) and shorter clevis are readily available and affordable.

Finally able to wrap this project up. Well, almost. will get into that at the end of this post. First we'll take a look back at where I started. And finally some pictures after a few hours work. Thanks for following along. Sure looks purty, just wish I could get it running right. I spent a fair amount of time trying different things with the engine today, but I just can't seem to get it to run good at high RPMs. Been a while since I've had an engine kick my but like this. I know that I have to be missing something, just wish that some type of epiphany would hurry up & hit me.

Working on keeping in shape for the surgery.

Thanks, bud. Much appreciated. I'm 73

So I pulled the trigger on the bearings @Achto posted since i have a set to paint. They look pretty good ... fairly tight and only maybe a couple thou of wiggle. Picked a seal and yah very little grease in them so they will get repacked with greasy Pete.

I like to use the sealed bearings. Usually get a couple hundred hours out of them. https://www.amazon.com/Pack-PGN-Flanged-Ball-Bearing/dp/B08HR2JNGJ/ref=sr_1_2_sspa

elcamino/wheelhorse always told me how much he enjoyed my steam pageant pics. Here's to you Waldo!! 65th NYSEA Pageant of Steam featuring Allis Chalmers. " The Gathering of the Orange!" And boy they did not disappoint. Probably the largest feature showing I ever saw there. Opening Day Keeping the pizza warm! 71 tons of fun! Just purchased by the club. It came from Canada Gen sets!