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More pictures of diesel it getting there

For the ones who do not know I have had this 1057 for almost three years. It is almost done. I have one leak where the fuel pump was. I ordered some plastic bushings for the hood. I have the carb dialed in runs smooth. Here is a short video. Feel free to ask anything that you would like to know about. Have a good day. IMG_1025.mov

For years the doctor has been keeping eye on my PSA which at last test was 16.7. (Quite some time ago, doctor removed me from medicine (Finasteride) that I had been taking because the medicine artificially lowers PSA.) I just finished my 5th prostate biopsy. He took 18 snips focusing on three lesions that the MRI found. He just called and reported no cancer and wait 9 months before another prostate test. Good News!

Scored a 520H and a 312-8 today. Also got a Brinly plow, disk and an agrifab box blade. Almost drowned getting them it was absolutely pouring down the rain. Will get better pics later. The 312-8 is a 96 and purrs like a kitten, a little over 500hrs showing and supposed to be original. The 520 runs great but has to have just a hint of choke so probably stopped up carb. Shows a little over a 1000hrs and supposed to be right also. Cant get a handle on year model for 520 but it does have hydro and lift control on steering column, but has been converted to foot hydro control. Has 16-7.50s on swept forward front and 23-10.50s on back. Have pic of tag under seat but cant make heads or tails of it any suggestions on yr?

Time to strap a set of 2 link Vee Bar chains and some weight on that helpless horse.

Another way to narrow down the model year on a 520 is forward of the TORO decal the model designation is red on the 1990 91 & 92 . 93 went white as shown in these two pictures. @sqrlgtr

Two of my favorites. 1990 0n the 520-H Great tractors

Check the bead where the tire meets the rim... is it seated uniformly all the way around?

The P engines crack there alot...my P220 was repaired by mig welding. I pulled the engine, thoroughly degreased it, took it to my buddys house, i had modified some old cheap welders vice clamps to hold the split sections closed. He wire wheeled the damage; welded about 3/8", ground it down, wire wheeled..welded another 3/8", etc etc..until both were welded up. I ran a bit down the holes as one was partly closed from welding. This was an opportunity to offset the hole slightly closer to the flywheel. I put on a new starter and used cheap feeler gauges to shim it until i liked the mesh pattern. Bad mesh is what usually causes it.

I call it the @Shynon special. He busted a lift cable at plow day and we had no spares. Lowell ain't exactly down the street. You shoulda seen what was on it.

That's where all tractors die. Either that or the farthest spot away from the tent at the tractor show!

1988 and 89 were on the lower console. In 1990 and up on the Column.

White paint pen is the way to go on these. Unless you have a dab hand with brushes.

I never had one that came in that was factory but that's not to say they weren't. Prolly a matter of personal preference on a resto. FYI vinyle guy does offer the decals for us p poor letteralers.

I suppose you could bend a rim by over-tightening the wheel weights - but I'd be more inclined to think the hub and/or keyway is the issue. Based on the video, I don't think it is a bent axle or bearing issue (though it could be). First check I would do is get it off the ground and see if you can wobble the wheel. Or remove the wheel and see if the hub is rotating true. Use something stationary on the floor touching the hub - as the motion could be minimal at the hub, but become exaggerated when watching the entire wheel.

I doubt that would be it. Check the hub & key.

Did it always do this or did it just start? Did you do anything like a new belt or other adjustment that caused it? Is this a new to you tractor? A 953/1054 is a bit different animal than other models. There is a long piece of metal that goes under the bottom of the belt make sure that that is still in place. Item 62 and item 68 as Squerl mentioned. Make sure # 68 is adjusted properly. You might have to zoom in on it in my pic. Check the rail on the inside of the belt guard too. The Tractor 1964 1054 SN IPL Wiring #A-7136.pdf in case you don't have it.

If they really are 10 ply, i wish you all the best, i mounted some 26x12x12 8ply that i had to use a front loader to push the rim into the tire, then flip it and push the tire down past the rim...still took a few hours each. Rides like its solid rubber with 5psi.

Words of wisdom, learned through personal experience!

I luv talking with my Amish neighbors. On of my favorites came from Annie when I stopped and told her I had caught a skunk in my live trap and took it to the woods. Her response " Did ya make him dead? Ve donn like skunks." I had to confess, I released him live. But, I did catch two more since that and they were made dead.

Please do not continue to force it in gear with the belt moving. The grinding is causing severe damage to the transmission. These early Wheel Horse models relied on the lower flange on the belt guard to support the slack belt and the wire guides if adjusted properly pushed the belt away from the engine pulley causing the belt to stop so a smooth shift could be made. Later models also used the moving belt guide on the idler pulley and a stationary pad to positively lock the belt for shifting. If you can not get the belt to stop, maybe a belt brake could be added.

My 1054 was doing the same, grinding while shifting gears. The belt tensioner or guide that bolts onto the engine block near the drive pulley was missing. It is the simple bent small rod that has a bolt holding it on to keep the drive belt positioned in the pulley. I made one and no issues since.

Make sure the belt guard in installed properly. It stops the belt.

I actually use tenths of a foot at work!

Yep.

About 900' which is about as far as I can get and still be on our property.

In general...gt wheels are very difficult to bend, its not something you would ever do accidentally or with any hand tool. Id guess not seated on the hub or bent axle

@Ed Kennell I thought I reinstalled the wheels correctly, though I will admit that I did this in my tight little shed. Hoping enough snow melts so that Fri I can bring this horse up to the garage and get a better look under bright light. Can report back then, but my hunch here is the wheel is bent and was curious how common this was and if it was a concern if that is the case

I have been wanting to mention that one of my riding buddies passed on June 21. 2024 at the age of 88. Unfortunately he was on one of his many motorcycles when he was hit by a car by someone in the same age bracket from what i can gather. Went into Hospice and passed shortly after. Don was very well known in all areas of Motorcycles and was not going to give that up. I thank him for what I learned from him and miss him dearly. For info check out on Legacy.Com Donald Murray Burnett at Campbell Funeral Home Beverly Mass. I have a thread on here under the same title I believe. Thanks Guys

Seen those gang reels displayed at the big WH show

Looks like you made the deadline to take it to that show. But don't forget about the Murphy's law rule. It always seems like any job, no matter what it is, the last 10% of it takes 90% of the time to get it right.

Are you sure it wasn't "mount these where the sun don't shine"

Better late than never….this was after I thought the snow on my usual loop was harder than it was with the C-141. I got out in the middle of the loop before I found a soft spot. A helper who drove the tractor backward out of the ruts and help from my winch equipped four wheeler got it out. My nephews did pack it down more afterward snowmobiling, but I think I’ll wait to spring/summer.

That thing looks beautiful. Nice job The other thing with the belt slip clutching adjustment if you have an issue is you could use 5/16" bolts for the engine mounting instead of 3/8" fasteners. That allows just a little more play in the holes for adjustments. There's a little bit of belt guard adjustment within the mounting holes for that too. Hopefully it turns out to be an easy one. 3/4 pedal clutch slipping a new belt will help to remove the belt memory from packaging and glaze the edges of the belt that contact the pulleys. I'd recommend doing that in reverse against a wall or something. An RJ or Suburban can climb the wall in forward! Guess how I found that out? LOL

Adjusting the Eaton 1100 to stop the creaping late last Summer on the 420 - LSE.

You guys were right! The 312-8 sat in 55-degree weather with the sun on the engine all afternoon after I installed the head. At 5PM, I was cleaning up, putting tools away and decided for S&Gs, I'd check the head bolt torque one more time. The bolts were loose. Only by a couple foot pounds, but loose. Think I'm getting my neighbor hooked. Purchased a hitch extender to weld the mini tire changer on so I can mount it in the truck hitch for more leverage. Steve does my welding. He was asking all sorts of questions about both tractors. He's gettin' the fever. Sent me a text last night about a Bolen's with deck, dozer blade & snow blower. I gave him the number for the guy I got the 416H from. He has some more Wheel Horses.

New, cheap Chinese fuel pump installed, everything looks OK for now.

Today I swept the two or so inches of snow that fell last night after I blew off about three inches yesterday. This is the first time in years I’ve used my sweeper to clean snow. Now that I’m retired from the snowplowing business I have time to mess around with this stuff. I used to come home from working and go to sleep. My driveway was always the last one to get done and usually a mess! It drove my wife crazy, but luckily for me she understood. One time I woke up and the driveway was plowed, I asked if she saw someone do it and she said no I did it with your truck I couldn’t wait any longer!! Anyway in this video you can see how well the sweeper works. If the snow hasn’t been driven on it sweeps it to dry clean blacktop. Obviously this only works like this in dry snow, and not slush. I also did a little clean up with the 418-C. IMG_1400.mov

As I predicted, all this snow is due to the fact that @Ed Kennell sold his Ber Vac blower 🤣

Didn't get much snow overnight but had some wind so driveway was drifted in a bit. Used the 702 to clean up & now its thawing in garage. 6° outside but its 68° in garage

My sons bought small spacers for his tractor, last night I installed one side. Had to remove the hub set screw and replace with a 1/4” shorter one so that the two bolts heads wouldn’t hit. The 7/16 x 20 x 2” bolts can be a pain to find.

Finally getting back to some work on my 522xi. About a week or so ago I feathered, primed, and sanded all of the rusty and flaky spots on the fender, and then re-primed and re-sanded it. Here it is in progress: I spent most of the past few days trying to learn the basics of Blender software (any Blender users here?), which has a considerable learning curve that makes my brain hurt a bit, so I needed to take a break today. This afternoon I painted the underside of the fender. I'll let it cure for a few days before flipping it over and painting the top. I hope to put it back together and get the snowblower installed in time for spring.

The 520H had been acting like it was starving for fuel during the tail end of the last storm clean up. I actually had to leave the warm cab and brave the cold to finish with the 312H. I had installed an epump last fall and she had been running fine till now. Time to find the problem before the next storm that is coming this Sat. I pulled the line off near the carb and turned on the epump and got barely a dribble. Nice thing about the epumps..you don't have to crank the engine to check for good fuel supply. So, I went to the other end and pulled the line on the fuel tank petcock....not even a dribble. from the tank. The petcock was clogged with dirt. A good cleaning of the petcock and flushing the tank and back together and running like a happy ONAN should. When installing this I like to coat it with vaseline then just start the valve in the grommet before pushing the grommet into the tank then push the valve barb into the grommet.

The wide ones are on my snow-plow machine, with 75#’s pounds of cast weight on each. They work great and I don’t run chains on my paved drive. I do keep the air pressure low, keeps the tire more squishy and pliable. The narrow set are on a tractor that mainly sees mowing duty. They are great for that and DO NOT tear up my lawn. I have used this machine occasionally to haul firewood from the woods in “mud season” and they are better than turfs, but can get mud packed and then they are like racing slicks. The sticky mud does not eject well from the depths of the tread. These pics are the wide ones on my plow tractor.

I’m partial to this tread (yes, these are my tractors). Brand: Carlisle All Trails The ones on the right are 23 x 8.0x12’s and would fit your current wheels and clear your fenders just fine.

Here are the pictures of the new one if you haven't seen my wacko thread yet. I know some of you dont think its real yet, but I don't lie.

Made a make shift weight bar and used some old weights that were kicking around so I could get around with the 44” blower. Didn’t have a problem going anywhere but definitely had to watch backing up. Probably going to seek out some wheel weights this year though.

Flew some parts and red for 520 FEL fuel pump install. Some slight mod to the pump mount it goes right in existing holes.

Finally put the snow blade on. We got a good layer of ice here in Georgetown, Texas last night. Blade just gliding on the top. Maybe I'll try putting a wheel weight on the blade and see if that makes a difference. Adjusted the angle and got a little bit of a bite but I I suppose it's a lot to ask for this little tractor to break through the ice. Maybe I can try low gear with the heavy weight on the blade, on my first attempt I was on high 1.

I also got this 1:25 scale rj-35 and painted it to match. I call it LiL Crusty