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I don't need a charger for mine.

Tried my luck with reupholstering a WH seat pan. I think it turned out good, not my first time with upholstery, I have done a few projects before. postimage Org may delete my picture. I think I have already payed the government enough to use their site.

glad ya got it. This has replaced a bunch of my cheater pipes and power handles and lug wrenches . Almost worth its weight in gold around the shop and farm.

Fixed it for ya...

Well, I have a very similar version, use it all the time, but I find that I do need a charger... beer, cashews and a wee bit of the venison chili usually works...

Got one of these in a kit a few years ago. Only took a few months to: a) realize how often it is just what I needed, and b) that it should only be used with impact-rated sockets (no need to ask about how I learned that).

Who needs a BA impact gun to loosen stuck blades. Old schoolers just get a longer wrench. This deck may cut again with the blades right side up.

October 25, 1884 1st "World Championship" Baseball Series, Polo Grounds, NYC: Providence Grays (NL) beat NY Mets (American Association) 12-2 in 6 innings for a 3-game sweep; game abandoned because of bitter cold.

Little red-neck engineering took place today. Wanted a ramp for the new shed that wasn’t permanent since I won’t be moving things in/out very often. Needed to be lightweight and easily stored out of the weather. Came up with this using plastic car ramps. Tested out perfect!!

Well at least a switch swap out is an easy task

Also got a large assortment of pipe wrenches up to 24 or 36 inches I forgot how long and lots of pipe

Love mine one of the best tool investments I got

eb, I was in the same boat then had 2 runners fall in my lap within a 2 week time span really stretched my Wheel Horse allowance. Warden was puffed up a little but got over it no time.

Agreed. It took me 2 or 3 YEARS to find a 520 roller. @Handy Don was instrumental there.

As @ebinmaine alluded too earlier real estate and Wheel Horses comes down to three things- Location, Location, Location. Man I envy you guys and gals in them target rich environments sometimes.

I guess inflation lag is a common problem for guys in thier 9th decade. Seems like yesterday when I bought rollers for $50.

Knew you would win the battle. Ed, using that long pipe I think I would grab a flex head rather than a ratchet.

Excellent! You were my main focus for sharing it!

As you are very aware, aluminum castings like the 701/702 tank are very challenging to manufacture. I’m betting the two-piece, even with the extra parts and labor to assemble, was substantially less expensive and, I’d suspect that the vendor that made the one-piece tanks had shut down their line. No big surprise that so many fuel tanks today are blow-molded plastic.

Hey Bar!! Bought it!! This'll most likely be brought up to whatever piece of camp property we end with a couple hours northeast of home. Such an incredibly helpful implement. Definitely justifiable for us as woods folk to have two of them.

I used this KBS product on a 502 two piecer that @Andy N. now has. I was too sceered to take it apart for fear of bad threads. 'Sides figured by the time I got a gasket from Lowell and Permatex and possibly dealing with bad threads i was ahead. I was sold on this brand since I used it before on a Tecky oval tank that was full of pin holes with great luck. . I soldered up the biggest holes and the ones I missed had the seal gooing out which I considered a good sign. The big thing with this product is use all three components and follow the destructions to the letter. https://www.amazon.com/KBS-Coatings-52000-Sealer-Gallon/dp/B000IBDIX2/ref=sr_1_1?crid=176XR3BJQCOI&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.VRrcUbU1iANAvxPODhOQO3xt4DcrZWHcPSX9eZkdvpHNP0AC30S3mP6VPjtv37JPU2A2RJNaGbc8AmnTHRce8DIMeiJSqdUGig2reSj9k6XZhdY1NzqYLYl4jql6C5yxmVYB0ZFbrT28pgq5FqILHabaGezHzaV1IZ2vFvNV3whPFCC_HFrMsqdB4A_bMmbNBSp9eb_Ari5mNfQ_9LednHWKBRRpZeGOY_7yRFFb17yWDM2Gi2bqk0CWJ30gDQHETMdV444TCG6aL54YwpIM6xTZ2Ic3zOJz_dFeuT-MWjM.xIbyvN4P2rS1Xo9cNfEOAlhKVgq439WeW2G6P6b43vI&dib_tag=se&keywords=kbs+tank+sealer+kit&qid=1792930810&sprefix=kbs+tank%2Caps%2C205&sr=8-1&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.9fe8cbfa-bf43-43d1-a707-3f4e65a4b666

Why, an e=pump will not fill the crankcase with fuel. You will get instant start ups as the carb bowl is filled before you crank the engine. Of course you have to have a carb that is working properly that shuts off the fuel when the bowl is full. IMO, the e-pumps are the bomb. They save my batteries and starters.

I've had several of those 2 piece tanks and never one that didn't leak to some extent. I don't think there's a gasket coating that exists that will permanently stop the issue. Really it's just a bad design. Wheel Horse came out with a service bulletin on it which involved actually installing an inner tank to solve the issue. I think I found a better method. There's many fuel tank liners out there and they will likely work as well but I've never tried them so I can't vouch for them but I know this stuff works. I think I can say permanent because I've never had one leak after using it. The key to it is cleanliness. I removed the old gasket and cleaned everything until it was sterile. I reassembled it and did some more cleaning. I let it sit in the sun several days to make sure any trace of moisture was gone. I plugged the threaded hole with a nylon fitting. I used maybe a quarter cup of Red Kote and swirled it around the edge where the two pieces meet. It doesn't take much. You don't need to coat the entire tank, just where the seal is. I let it dry several days and repeated. When I was done with the sealer I let it dry for many days. The latest one I've done is my current 854 and that's been 8 years now.

And as Trina says.... I know where to buy more paint!

Went back to Polo, IL today for their annual plow day. Turnout was great, weather was great, field conditions were great.....and breakdowns were a plenty. Took my 2 plow rigs (418-8 & 520-8) and was basically done by noon. I didn't get many pics of the day due to the breakdowns. IMG_1108.mp4 Never had a valve stem break off before, but got a clump of dirt stuck between the trans and and the wheel and it must of hit the valve stem on the way by, because all of sudden, I'm leaving a washer fluid trail. Nursed it back to the trailer and parked it with the valve stem up as there was still fluid coming out. No worries, I'll move to the 520-8...Well, she ran good for about an hour and was spitting and sputtering and the engine kept shutting down. Nursed it back to trailer and looks like I'll be replacing the ignitions system (which I probably should have done when I got it anyway). IMG_9314.mp4 IMG_9315.mp4 Since I headed home early, I was able to get everything cleaned up nicely and moldboards protected well before dark.

My version of HUGE extension pipe is a 51 inch long 3/4" drive breaker bar. Rarely use it but with my size and strength it'll outperform all of our impact tools except the strongest one.

By looking at the decals it is a 1994-97. 1988 - 1990 did not have gear reduction steering and no forward swept axle.

I have both (regular and reduction steering), both have forward swept axle and I prefer the regular over the reduction myself but see how the reduction steering would be handy with heavy front attachments like snow blower or front end loader or such.

Since we don’t know the year or model number, we cannot be sure if there is a reduction steering. Early 520s did not have it. The shallower steering column angle suggests not so I wouldn’t count on it. My prediction is that’ll go for around $600

Just gotta figure how and when to get it the four hour drive to Maine.....

Them is rare as hen's teeth up here. I'd pay five times that and run like the wind. Wide rear wheels. $100 - $200. Splayed forward front axle. $250+ Gear reduction steering. $100+ There's at LEAST $1000 in parts there without knowing if it runs and drives.

Very common problem on the Wheel Horses but like already has been said very fixable. The worst one I had felt like you were riding and inch worm when the going got tough. The 520"s I have come reinforced from the factory and what should have been implemented from the beginning IMHO.

I just hate it when that happens!

I agree but it's what they did back then. They did address the reduced capacity. The original was 4 quarts, the replacement 2 quarts. They mentioned if that was a problem to seal the tank. The problem back then could have been not having the selection of tank sealers that we have now. I like that idea. I've done it with gasket goop and without and also without removing the bottom plate. Same results with all. Edit Check out Bulletin #348 if you want to see the old Wheel Horse fix.

The "F" plates crack on all Wheel Horse tractors if the tractors are used for jerking or pushing heavy objects. Like jerking stumps or ramming into solid snow banks with a plow. The transaxle stops and the other 450 lbs of tractor keeps moving causing the damage to the transmission bolting plate.

When I do this I use are longer bolt with about 3/8" of unthreaded rod below the head. This way the rotating parts are not pivoting on bolt threads which will cause wear. The unthreaded part extends through the complete assembly plus a bit. Add enough flat washers below the nut so there is room for future adjustment. Cut off the threads that are not used. Reaching in with two wrenches to make future adjustments is a breeze.

Buttoned up a bunch of small things. Welded some proper hinges to the seat, plumbed the hydraulic system, filled it up (no leaks!), installed new air cleaner elements, fitted an extra heat shield/mesh at the drivers station, added small exhaust tip (not sufficient unfortunately) installed new drivechains and put on all the engine cooling shrouds. Before testing the hydraulic system on full chooch I wanted to purge the oil-lines and hydraulic valves of old oil. To do so I hooked the belt on the oil pump pulley and the other end around the drillchuck of a battery powered drill. Gave it a spin and waited for the oil to make it's way through the system. Worked like a dream! Could even build a bit of pressure that way until the belt started to slip on my drillchuck. After that it was time for the real test. Fire it up and see what it does.. thanks to my SO for being the cam-opetator. Went pretty well and still no leaks Next up comes the 'fun' part of fitting some new rubber to the old rims and see what it does in the great outdoors. Now I do have a question for the engine doctors out there. As you can hear the engine runs okay but coughs a bit. I loves to rev and runs fine in the upper rpms but if I throttle it down past halfway full throttle it dies even when I re-apply full throttle, while still having good momentum going in the flywheel so to say. Is this a 'clean-the-carb-well-and-reassemble' issue or a tuning issue. Or perhaps something ignition related or valves etc..?

what pressure pump did you use ?

I often pull one plug at a time on my twins when trying to locate a problem. They do run on one cylinder.

Same tractor with all 4 wheels freshened up.

The bearing noise is there so you can tell it's turned on over the roar of Wild Bill on the P.A.!