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Now driving and steering - a lot of trial and error!

September 2, 1945: Representatives from Japan signed the formal Japanese Surrender aboard the battleship USS Missouri in Tokyo Bay, officially marking the end of World War II. This day is celebrated as V-J Day (Victory over Japan Day)

No pics but Dusty the B-80 went to it's new home in East Syracuse.

I believe that's for a Pullstart engine. To the best of my knowledge.... That will NOT work for any Starter/Generator or gear drive starter engines. @squonk?

No big deal! Mennonites use that method around here for connecting equipment to 3 phase power!

Advise when pulling the pump apart. 1 - The cylinder "#16 in the diagram" has a slight taper to it and has to slide in to be removed. 2 - If you need to remove the belt pulley, DO NOT tap on the shaft with a hammer. You WILL damage the pump gears. If you note these two things, a rebuild is pretty easy.

Change it sooner than later. If it is one of the horse-shoe shaped springs and it broke the remaining piece will dig into the pump head with use, egging out the hole, gouging the surface, and ultimately making it unable to retain a new spring.

That is a standard magneto used for ignition only. Can be used on any Kohler K series if you already have the correct flywheel and mount.

If you get stuck, I am in the same village as you. PM me if needed.

I wonder if the only ground for the coil is coming thru the headlight wiring.

Looking at my 416-H as the only point of reference available to me, the only wiring that would be in any way related to the hood and it's movement is the connector going to the lights. If the lights are disconnected and the harness on the tractor side is secured from movement, the hood must be hitting something that you are not seeing. Leaving the hood in the open position, I would begin by touching every wire or moveable part that could touch a wire until the engine quits. Something is either grounding or causing a break in a circuit that is critical to the running of the engine. It's not magic or voodoo, it's a mechanical disconnect. Try your testing at night in pitch black darkness and see if you can see a spark as the culprit raises it's ugly head. When working in the dark, just be careful of moving parts such as belts, fans, PTO's etc.

It is not a big deal to change. I believe Lowell has the Spring & gaskets...

Those Robin/Subaru engines were pretty good. Problem is, they were not real popular for some reason. This makes finding parts for them quite an adventure. It appears that you need part 2774220133. Every place I have checked comes up with NLA.

That has nothing to do with breakerless

Lol it was a pretty hacked up 300 series. Somebody put the never start battery in back and a tank where the battery was supposed to go. He asked me what the tractor was worth I told him 100 tops. His buddy had a 314 that was restoed and pretty sharp I shoulda got pics of that.

Yup! The correct spring did the trick! I think i am also used to the worn belt that was slipping, the as well as the worn strut. Now it feels like a true tractor not a lawn mower from lowes any more.

I'd leave it. Then race people with 16 hp engines and when you tie/beat them, you can point to the HP engine sticker and claim superiority of driving skills over HP...

There are two kinds of springs used in the 1054 pumps. Open it up to see what spring you need prior to calling Lowell. https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product-category/hydraulics/page/2/

The tie down is what makes it...!!! twice, cut once... Lucky 13!!!

IMHO - leave them as is. IF you ever come across a good running correct vintage 16 HP Kohler to swap in, it's one less thing to deal with.

Saw this at a show. Owner called it a battery quick disconnect

From the details page FD620D-AS17

Finished up on the C160 front end today replaced tie rods with some l had made a while back. Also added thrust bearings on the spindles. Good thing I had the homegrown tie rods ready, one of the old ones fell apart when I took it off . Steers way easier than before even with the wider wheels and 5 rib V61 tires.

That is some next level engine-nerding going on there sir! Curious to see how you will feed power to the front axle. I've toyed with the idea of building a 4wd but was looking at ready made differentials. Like I said, this is next level. Greetings from the Netherlands, Mark

Hold on! All that beautiful machine work so far and then this?????

Might have went through a couple tanks of gas trying to take in the Portland Tri-State show. More pictures in a separate post.

Tomorrow, I'll see if I can get some pictures that show the massive scale of the event. Garden tractors are only a small segment. Acres and acres of swap meet vendors, antique tractors, hit and miss engines, food vendors, consignment barn...

Nothing special, but I moved a couple out to the barn until the house is done. It was nice to drive them around for a bit. You can see some of the debris pile behind the 523H. The contractor has removed over a dozen tandem dump truck loads so far.

I will give you this @WHX?? famous quote "good enough for the girls we go out with"

Yes they are. I haven't weighed them but I need to get them mounted so I can stop having to move them around the shop

Too much on the to-do list today to get these on a machine but did manage to drill the rims for the weights. ICYMI, these 4 x 8 rims came on an off-brand cart with bushings and dry rotted wheel barrow tires. I almost threw them on the I don't care pile but they're actually decent quality so I knocked the bushings out and put 4 ply 4 x 8 tri-ribs on them. I talked my brother out of the weights and cleaned them up. Too wide on standard rims to get through the gates on my property so I think this will work. Soon to be in service...

Needed to get the york rake hooked up to work on the stump removal project. It is the only implement I have not permanently attached to a tractor. Had to move a lot to get it out and hooked up to the GT-14... Part of me says I need another 3pt tractor

I'm helping a friend with a Subaru Robin 9hp EX27 engine that was his wood splitter. He's funny , last year he had told me that he was giving up on using wood and was going to get his heat from a hose, but with the current oil prices he's having to rethink this! He said suddenly the engine was racing so we investigated and found its governor shaft was broken off and there was slight damage to the governor gear as well. I've tried to find a new shaft and haven't been able to find one, I had no idea finding parts for these Subaru engines would be so hard! I did see a gear on eBay. I don't know much about these Subaru engines and it looks like a mostly well designed engine, I see that it has roller bearings on both ends of the crank. Does anyone know if this is a known issue? Any ideas if there's a source for parts or used parts? C-85

1988 520H heres the story. Last time I ran the mower about half way through I noticed that the gas gauge had stopped working. after finishing I parked the tractor back in my garage. I was like HMMM let me check battery voltage with the engine running. It was 12.14V. So I then did all the test for the regulator/rectifier and stator. I have no voltage from the Stator. Ordered part, part arrived. Then today I was like I should mow 1 more time before I start taking things apart. go out put my charger on the battery, wait 1 hour, go back out start the tractor. close the hood and it dies... Hmm ok maybe thats just a flook. open the hood restart the tractor, close the hood and again it dies. ok what is going on here. open the hood start it again. this time I pay attention. closing the hood the engine starts to die. This is within the last 1/2 inch of closing. Open it back up just a little and it picks right back up. I then shut it off opened the hood and started looking around. I could not find any markings of a short. I then disconnected the headlight wiring making sure both ends were out of the way and safe. Secured that famous 9 pin connector with some zip ties to make sure it did not move. Then made sure there was nothing that could touch or be moved by the hood. Started tractor again and began closing the hood. in the same area it started to die again, lifting it back up and it picks back up. As I began closing it again I looked very closely at everything. To the bast of my ability there are not touching wires, nothing is being moved. I am at a loss here. TAKING ALL ADIVE thank you.