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I’ve got one of those here as well…but he (Bill) is a house cat/couch potato

Hello everyone. I have not falling off the face of the earth just yet and have been working on the old C120 that I got from my Grandfather years ago. I didn't really use it much as the old K301 was leaking and very worn out. So, I just let it sit in the barn for a long time. Well I got to thinking lately and I was like it time to get it going again. So I took it to work and stuck it in my work bay to get me working on it. To start we need to do something with the engine. Well, one of my co workers had a good shape K321 from a Cub Cadet. So, they was the first thing to do. (The first two photos of of it mocked up.) Once it was secured, I had to redo the whole wiring harness from scratch. The old one melt at some point and I figured it wouldn't hurt to wire it up correctly. I even used different color wires!!! ( I know right! HAHA) Next was the old 48in mower deck. Yes this deck is used to cut my neighbor's 3 acre horse pasture. So the deck will not need to cut pretty, just handle large tall growth compared to a normal yard. So I welded a rebar for the bottom front to help keep it from loosing its shape. I also replaced the old worn out original blades with some gator G6 blades. (They were a huge bear to drill out the hold from 5/8 to 3/4. That metal is super tough.) I also had some wheels hanging around that I have been wanting to use for a project, so I made them fit for this one. They look and seem to work so much better than the factor rear wheels. After that came the front bumper. I got this sub compact tractor bumper for free 5 years ago that i wanted to mount on the wheel horse. Well it finally happened and now it looks great! It will protect the front of the tractor from the brush and other whatnot in the field I will be mowing, plus it looks cool. What I did was use some scrap metal, welded the bumper to it and then bolts this to the front of a mule drive. The mule drive still works as it should and the hood even opens enough for me to refuel the the mid gas tank and check the oil. Final thing I wanted to do was add a secondary fuel tank to the tractor as the center tank only last about one hour or so in heavy mowing. The field is a 5 min tractor ride from my house and i do not want to keep stopping and walking back over or riding over. I found a scrap fuel tank and welded up a bracket, bolted it under the seat back feet. Then plumbed up some hoses to a valve that is mounted on the dash. Turn it left and it turns on the center tank and turn it right it turns on the rear tank. I think it works pretty well and I was surprised it all fit behind the center tank under the dash. I fixed the oil leak at the PTO input shaft on the transmission with a new seal. I also notice the right wheel hub has a wobble to it. So I got the hub off, and use some JB weld with a key trick in the key hole. The hole was a little worn and the key wasn't sitting in perfectly. Now its all snug as a bug. What's left is the drive pulley to get here and then I can put on the PTO clutch. Then the side cover plate and right foot rest for a test drive. All should be good. Oh, and the drive pulley will be the hydro one sleaved down to 1in so I can still have faster 2nd gear. Overall I'm very please with how this project came out and I hope it will do as I want. Mow the field in heavy growth conditions. Thank you everyone for the inspiration and I hope you all have a great day!

August 20, 1920, seven men, including legendary all-around athlete and football star Jim Thorpe, meet to organize a professional football league at the Jordan and Hupmobile Auto Showroom in Canton, Ohio. The meeting led to the creation of the American Professional Football Conference (APFC), the forerunner to the hugely successful National Football League.

A day late but anyway 2. 520H’s and the C160-8.

Since we’re sharing muscle cars, here is My father’s 67 Mustang coupe It has a 68 302 with a 4 speed. It’s a transplanted 6 cylinder car that he and I and one of my three brothers helped him swap. It’s eventually going to be a clone of the Mustang he had in high school. he’s about 3/4 of the way now to that, but it still needs work.

I grabbed these 2017 Corvette Z06 wheels and tires for $250 today. $100 worth of spacers and they should fit the S10!

I shut it off, because the throttle was stuck and I was about to run into the door frame 🤠

Had to move the last of my house stuff into the garage last night, so the 3 machines that have resided there since resto had to spend the night out under the temp awning. For the next few months they will be spead between the barn and utility building. They didn't seem to mind so far...

More photos. (The field photos are what I have completed so far using this deck before the updates along with my C160 hydro. This grass is about 2-3 feet tall and really worked the tractor. Now, yes a real bush hog would be better however, I do not have one I figured I can use what I got and once its cut down, it will be way easier to maintain. This is after him letting it go for about 3 years due to his house burning down and his health going poor for a while.)

My 1st brand new vehicle was a 1991 S10 Tahoe. I was 18yrs old. Had 4.3 w/3:42 posi rear end. Did a few performance bolt ons to engine, headers, exhaust, shift kit, etc. It ran pretty good after that. Lowered trucks were the trend at that time.

You kind of need to look at production numbers a little bit. Oliver production numbers were low. Most numbers were not that low. Now if you are talking about a that there was only 200 made of - like the 420LSE the price tag goes up a fair amount. Supply & demand ya know. Some people get upset when a gets mutilated or scrapped out. Which I have to agree, I get a little saddened when it happens. The other way to look at it is - Every horse that dies, makes the survivors more valuable. I collect because I enjoy the hobby and even more so, the people associated with it. If I was in it to make any money at all, I would not have restored any of my tractors.

I value mine

How did the farmer stalk his ex? He tractor.

Cleaning the points and replacing the condenser cleared it right up, running strong again now, thanks

Spandex didn't come out until about 1960.

Today I got the replacement PTO belt for the 312 so now I can mow again and interestingly enough it’s the same size as the belt for my 37” SD so I just bought another. I also eventually changed a blown 15A fuse on the C-141 so the lights would work again. While I was I there I made sure the lights had plenty of clean metal for good contact. No pics though.

This is where I routed mine on the 416 I built last year. I know you don't have that hydraulic line but you could fasten it there another way.

He said rounds Dan! LOL

I use the Tomcat green poison blocks in my shed and around the garage and they get eaten eventually so I assume they are working. But I think the mice are reproducing faster than I can take em out! So giving this a try…sterilize the little buggers! Anyone here try this stuff?

Spray spray spray remove the set screw and spray into that hole. The pulleys are cast so they will break if you just start off with a puller and crank. This may seem counterintuitive but knock it in towards the block. The idea is to get it to move which breaks that rust bond. Then try a puller BUT you need to get it to move back and forth a little bit at a time before pulling it all the way off the shaft. Yes tedious, but knock in, pull out, knock in, pull out and repeat. It should move more distance on the shaft each time and get more oil in there each time. Try to spin it if you can as that will get more oil in there too. Clean the shaft off of any rust before beginning which will make it easier once it moves far enough out. That's my

I chose a front-mounted winch. Personal preference of mine and pretty simple construction with a section of an old frame. Weight in the rear can be an issue but this attaches just about as quickly and doesn't stress the frame at the uni-drive bracket.

I used that line once, the judge wasn't amused at all. Guilty as charged.

We're going to the "live predator method" here.

ppffppffftttttt Whatever.... No sense of adventure.

I would download the mower deck owners manual and set up the deck starting from scratch. A good portion of Wheel Horse decks are not adjusted correctly.

These are all like your typical farmer. Outstanding in their field!

Man do you have courage burning rubber and trusting the long-sitting-and-in-unknown-condition front brakes while pointed into your garage!

Hmmm... I'm not too sure that adding a yank start to a 7 or 8 HP Kohler with a dead weight S/G as you pull the rope is a great idea. One of the dis-advantages with the pull start style the contortions you do to clutch it as you attempt to start it. (provided you have the rope handle facing to the rear). A lot have the rope handle facing the grille - you best make absolutely sure the Unidrive is not in gear! If what you already have works, charges, doesn't leak or smoke... just run it and criuse the Big Show next year to find what you want....

I put this on my tall chute a while back. Mounted this way the 6" stroke is spot on. The control is mounted in a pvc handy box with a magnet. The directional crank works just fine for me.

Not a wheel horse. But I used an electric actuator from a mobility cart carrier. Put it on the back of a repurposed Roper. Rated at 400 lbs. Never be ale to pick up that much without tipping over. I did use this to pull the post while removing a split rail fence. The easy ones I could get in a single pull at the far end. The harder ones required two-three pulls from the near end, or the front of the tractor would raise up. Since then I have hardly used it.

I’ll keep poisoning the mice with Tomcat, just hoping to reduce the herd with this stuff.

Those are what I use but they offer two different kinds. Not sure what the difference is but they have different ingredients. The red bucket is more $ so maybe high test? I suppose I could google it and find out. Yes I get the big buckets this is war ... It does disappear but I find the bait stations out in the woods so guessing coons try and get at it as well. Think it may have corn in it as a binder/attractant. I made the pvc bait holders to try and keep it away from the dog. I do find some carcasses so must work?? Between this tactic outside and regular victor's inside I have them under control. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rXEtaovUw-k Me neither but would try anything once. It sounds like it just keeps them from reproducing but like moles I wanna see em dead!

I agree with that Richard. Very easy to make the six into an eight with a black magic marker 5 feet away. You’ll never know the difference. I will keep that in mind. But like I said in my last post, I’m hoping I can find something down at the big show. I’m finally going to make it.

Fuel load could easily outlast the operator’s bladder.

My harbor freight boom on my Raider 12 the weight limit to keep the front wheels down is less the 200 lbs. I can move a 42" deck or a big block single cylinder Kohler. I have used it to move brush by just lifting the one end a draging. Makes it easy to drag a long way to a good burning spot.

I usually prefer warmer weather, but this year I am so ready for fall and winter. Just had to spend more time outdoors this year, and we've had a long streak of silly hot, humid sticky stuff. We are supposed to get a break beginning Friday for about a week. Cloudy rainy high 80s. I will happily take it!

Yeah, I noticed that after taking pictures. I think maybe the chain is a little on the short side that comes from bell crank or might be in dozer blade hole instead of mower hole, I know it was harder than usual to hook/unhook deck. The PO didn't have the notch on front of mower that lines up with hitch locked in, might be the reason for lift in wrong position. IDK how it mowed as good as it did.

I wonder how good it would mow if the deck wasn't running uphill.

probably twenty tires per gallon would be a closer call.

Considering the prices paid for a 420-LSE lately I think that RJ should be worth upwards of $ 6,000 considering the fact that it is a 100% original survivor and it is extremely unlikely that another one exists.

You would need the non-ring gear flywheel, magneto and the appropriate sheet metal. There would be no battery, lighting or lighter (smoking is bad for you anyway). In my opinion we are all getting older and pushing a button is better than yanking a rope. K-181S is shown as the proper OME engine for a B-80. That is an electric start eight horse power Kohler, that is the way to go. Most people wouldn't know the deference and you could always say the B-80 decals are on backorder.

https://youtube.com/shorts/J-v7fGaRWxw?si=ICoKZArahKN1pjmV

Starting to look like a engine

Today I got the exhaust cut & removed from just downstream of the catalytic converters. Those will be removed later. The muffler had an interesting surprise. Upon tilting it to remove it from the truck.. I heard rattling rolling noises. There was at least a dozen and a half acorns in the part of the muffler furthest from the open end. I was unaware that was possible given that this is a stock closed type muffler. Maybe it's in the design. Maybe it's got internal holes it wasn't built with. Doesn't matter because I never intended to leave it on. I also got the unused canister vent and air intake pieces removed from under the hood. Also detached the fuel tank side of the unused vent hose. That'll be rerouted and filtered somehow when the bed is built. When the PO assembled the truck, this intake manifold port was hose attached directly to an upper vacuum port of the carburetor. One vacuum source attached by hose to another vacuum source. It was also thoroughly gunkified with the orange sealant you can see. I have no idea what purpose that would serve. In other news. This is Seamus. He VERY rarely makes appearances while human people are in his barn. Today I lucked out and got a pic.

Cleaning the ignition points and replacing the spark plug should always be the first step in correcting poor running conditions. Easy way to rule out the condenser is to temporarily disconnect it for testing, if conditions improve then replace it, if not then look elsewhere.