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They are limited to what they can do but come in handy for many tasks. Not a big deal to install and remove.

Same technique for mine... 3rd season and going great!

I decided to add shallow grooves on the steering shaft to retain grease under the welded-on gear. The coiled pin in the steering wheel did not want to budge, so I had to leave the upper end assembled. I had to do some creative fixturing but added five equally spaced shallow (.030 deep) grooves inline with the root of every other tooth of the gear using a ball endmill.

its not mine. (But could be!). I know of the guy with the FEL and he want to sell it. It needs a seat. Ok, what’s it worth? A 93 314H, I didn’t see it run, it was out of gas. But, let’s assume it runs. It’s a Kiki way loader and it’s got non leaking lines. I think the lines are original. The muffler is whole! I mean, lets assume its got oil to be changed, fuel lines and an air filter to be changed. Shoot me all the questions and I’ll try to answer them! I mean, I’ll make sure the loader works!

Did you try pulling harder?

The grease goes out the bottom anyway - there is a blow-out from the OE machining process. I figure the packed shallow grooves help to smear the grease.

Actually @JCM I’m not talking about the Kwik-Way, my bad ! Mine is a Wheel Horse loader which I believe is actually made by Ark. I think I only took it off once before realizing it was easier to leave it on and just get more tractors for different attachments!!

The first few years I had just one tractor to do everything, I could install or remove the loader under a half hour. The front axle and spindles should be upgraded to handle the load, the 520H tractors have what is needed. Also. gear reduction steering will help a lot, the weight really makes it difficult to steer.

Ive plowed 3 times Ed and no problems yet. I just hit the button real quick and it lifts about 3 inches. Which is what my manual lift did. It has the wireless remote. As soon as you let off the button it stops. Fingers crossed.

I put a winch on the dedicated snow machine. I hurt for 2 days anymore using the manual lift. I do about 3/8 mile of drives.

28 degrees? the heat is in the tools! my shop is 50/60.....that is why not as much gets done!

Plastic scraper, flat blade screwdriver (being careful to not take the paint off), rags and elbow grease. No cleaning chemicals or even water. This spring I’ll remove the fender and guards and all and it’s get a proper pressure washing.

So you basically removed all that paint protector! LOL Amazing how deep that stuff was. And BTW you missed a spot!

About 2 years ago, I was informed that I had a cataract, and it was time i should start considering getting it taken care of. We'll, at the time that didn't really fit in with what all we had going on. Well, last year's eye exam showed a big degradation in my left eye. Last summer, I noticed that my short range depth preseption was off - the finish nails I drove to flush were actually standing about 1/4" proud. Bolts on machinery i was working on were farther away than where my eyes told me to put the wrench. I was having trouble getting a good sight picture of the pop can target when shooting my Daisy Red Ryder. Bunch of little things, but enough was enough. 3 weeks ago, I had my left (dominant) eye operated on, as it was the worst. Wonderful improvement! Yesterday, I had my right eye operated on. It is still dilated and not focusing quite right at reading range, but a noticable improvement in distance sight. The most impressive thing is how sharp and vivid the colors are now. If anybody out there is considering cataract surgery, I'll encourage you to go get it done. The procedure (outpatient) itself is a breeze, involving just enough knock out drugs to relax and enjoy the 'light show'. I think my reply to the "how are you doing?" question in recovery was "that was a pretty cool trip". Had a special lens installed yesterday that corrected an astigmatism. While discussing this with the surgeon pre-op, I asked him if the lens also had a .010" eyecrometer scale - he got a chuckle out of that one.

Go for it!

So this is a stand-alone structure I take it?? Not one with a walk thru access? First thing to consider since it is in Michigan is snow load and proper pitch of the roof. Along with runoff and drainage of the accumulated snow as it melts. If time is the most important factor, a kit may be the better choice - but may have design limitations for alterations / custom features. Stick built allows you go at your own pace but will take longer to finish. A "newer" alternative - is it possible to get a 10 x 40 shipping container in place there? There are numerous excellent videos of folks that have adapted one to become a garage - when done it is almost unrecognizable from its original form.

Wished I could remember where it came from and why I didn't use it on my 701 resto. I guess it was the challenge of restoring 701's

Unfortunately my services were required at work on Saturday so it was kind of an unproductive weekend for me. A big Thank You to @WHX?? for the nice steering wheel. It cleaned up very nicely. I also painted a few small items for the engine today. Fly wheel, governor arm pieces, & little trinkets & doo dad's. I also got side tracked with another project. I'm helping a friend set up his Simple-city with a Magnum 16 Kohler. This was a yank start engine that we converted to electric start. Fits perfectly in the frame. He carved out an adapter that bolts to the flywheel so that the drive shaft can be connected. A few little kinks to work out on this yet but it is coming along well.

The steering on my GT-14 FEL I got from @fast88pu a few years ago at the Big Show was skipping teeth and unpredictable I investigated and found the housing support for the steering shaft was broken. I have a parts GT-14 that had a good support on it so I "borrowed" it Top one in picture is broken. Bottom one is the good one. It came off the donor easily but it's a tight fit getting it on the FEL tractor. I found the starter shield on the shroud is in the way. I started to remove it for better access and it won't come off I removed all the bolts I found that held it on and it wiggles but won't pull off

Well, after a weekend of up and down with a friend's son's truck doing exhaust work I think I can safely say the lift is fixed. And the shop needs insulated.

Through ice and sleet and snow. They made it here.

Agreed. Follow the @SylvanLakeWH rule!!

I don’t believe it does come with the 2 loader stands. I believe it has the weight box.

Don.are you talking about the Kwik - Way off and on. The only tools you need is small open end / box wrenches for the pump and axle brackets. Not much work I found when I had mine. @c-series don

From my experience, once the loader is on that’s it. It becomes a dedicated loader tractor. You’re not switching attachments like you would mower to tiller, or tiller to plow. It’s a process to take that off or put it on. That being said, go get it and add another one to your collection!!

Ok I fixed it. I got it running better than it ever has since I’ve owned it. I can now run it with no choke on, and idle it way down without it surging. I’m not sure any one thing I did fixed it. I think it was a combination of things. First I took apart the original carb and cleaned it. I was able to reuse the original gasket that goes between the halves. Although the next time I take it apart I should probably buy the rebuild kit with a new gasket. Next I cranked it over with the fuel hose still disconnected from the carb. It seemed to not flow very well. Less than the gravity flow through a 1/4” like for sure. So I swapped out the new aftermarket fuel pump back to the original. Then tested it again. It seemed to flow quite a bit better with the original pump. At first when I put it all back together the carb bowl wouldn’t fill. So I popped the top off the carb again and shot some more carb cleaner through the needle valve on the float. I cranked it over and saw fuel filling the bowl so I put it back together. She fired right up and runs good. Now I can focus on my rear wheel spacers and getting chains on it. I guess my lesson here is beware of aftermarket parts. They’re not all the same spec as Onan. Most likely if I had just cleaned the carb and resealed the intake I would have been golden

That loader ALONE is worth $2500 minimum.

Howd you get that so clean without a pressure washer Sparky? Just the shop vac? Hard to believe. What's your secret?

More like insulation… gotta keep that hydro pump warm for best performance and long life !

Sure does!

I don't have a C-160 but I do have a C-120/180. If I subtract the 20 from the 80 does that make it a C-160.

Good job. Looking great !

Actually done this yesterday but forgot to post it. Mounted new Deestones tri rib’s on 73 12hp-8 also new front wheel brgs., made up a short frame snow plow, put snow plow and bracket on 857. Took 1257 home and 857 to Moms and waited on snow that never came.

Aw, thank you both!

He'd be welcome.

Made a wonderful roast dinner in our 1930's Wagner dutch oven.... then made 4 loaves of sourdough bread! The house sure smelled GOOD all day!!!!

Yes, just pump it a few times and you will see the fuel filter fill up then you can start the tractor. It should start quickly at this point. You can then remove it and install the regular fuel cap. And as a bonus, you only need one so long as all your tractors use the same fuel cap.

NT TO THANK ALL OF MY SUPPORTERS WOW WHAT I HAVE SEEN AND LEARNEDNOW I UNDER STAND HOW EVERY THING'S WORK. I AM GOING TO TRY AGAIN AFTER SEVERAL DAY'S SOAKING WITH BLaster..................i think my next move will be to lay t i have never used a forum beforehe tractor on it's side so i do not have to lay down and fight the problem!!!!!!!!!!!!! I NEVER USED A FORUM BEFORE, THANK'S AGAIN TO ALL...THERE STILL IS A LOT OF GOOD PEOPLE OUT THERE JACKM

Never found any specific torque for the WH Electro PTO... and I had to rpalce teh Electric PTO on a JD GT235..It did not want o come off at all. Was a real PIA. Working from teh bottom up and no nice push off like the WH PTOs. You basically destroy it to remove it.

This is a great example of the informative threads here! I enjoy the point-counter point where issues are not just right or wrong but each has it's own virtue!

Read this very well written thread with much interest. However, it can't be finished yet! I'm looking forward to seeing it completed. Pfrederi, please finish it when you have time, I'll be sure to follow! This is a very informative thread!

I figured out some of the bearing issue. I had not observed that one of my hubs had a longer bearing surface than the other 2. The hub on the left uses the high shouldered bearing and the distance between the snap ring groove and the step on the shaft is 21.3 mm the bearing is 21.9 thick. Note the snap ring grove is wider than the snap ring was thick...makes up the variance. The hubs that used the 6207-40nsl bearing that surface is 16.8 mm the bearing is 16.9 again I guess the slop in the snap ring groove makes up the difference. The other news, today the bearings showed up and they are 6207-40nsl. Perfect match for the flat bearing. So if you have a hub with a 17mm +/- surface you can get a replacement. I noticed the TSB mentioned checking for shims behind the bearing ( I found none anywhere). i would think you could use the thinner 6207 bearing on the hub with the longer surface if you added a few shims. 6207-40nsl $18.00 6204-nsl $6.24 What I can't fathom is why all hubs have 5/8 NC threads but one uses a different bearing....

Ditto to Aldon's statement. Very detailed and definitive instructions and phenomenal pics to go with the text! Great stuff, Paul!!!

Next step is to separate the pulley from the hub. I have both 1" and 1-1/8" PTOs The only difference is the hub. They use the same bearings Field coil and Clutch plate. EDIT:: First you have to remove the two snap rings inner and outer. See last picture I forgot this step. Inner is an eaton and needs the special pliers or 4 letter words and some luck. The outer one you can pry in and off with a screw driver. END EDIT This time thread the pusher bolt in from the back of the unit. Again make sure to fully engage the threads. Again slam the unit down on the anvil until the pulleys drop down (some Kroil PB blaster Between the inner race and the hub may help Picture 1. Picture 2 shows them apart. You can now press out the bearings if you are replacing them. The small bearing in the field coil is readily available for about $8. 6204 is bearing size you want one sealed on both sides. On one of my units they staked it in so it will come out hard. I used hydraulic press. I guess you could use a hammer and appropriate arbor but I would be afraid of damaging the field coil. Picture 3 shows the old and new bearing. I inserted new bearing with a hand press. After break we will remove the big bearing which may or may not still be available (I should know in a couple of days). In any event you could always clean and repack the original after you get it out.

I will do this in a couple of posts...(so I don't confused) I am disassembling 3 WH Electric PTOs. I assume youhave already removed from teh tractor using a pusher bolt. 5/8NC or 7/8NC or 1"NC depending on the age of your PTO First picture are the tools i used Who ever made these for WH they were not consistent in the style of snap ring. The Eaton type require a special pliers or you will probably damage it (or your self removing it. The big internal snap ring on the right can be removed with a couple of screw drivers. Next step is to remove the electro magnet (field Coil). Note on older units with a 7/8 or 1" pusher there may be a snap ring you have to remove between the outer bearing and the field coil. Newer units do not use that. Thread the 5/8" nc bolt into the unit from the outside Picture 2 make sure the threads are fully engaged. Manual says use cement floor i used an anvil and proceed to slam the unit down on the bolt head several times...and I do mean slam.Picture 3. You may want to put a small amount of Kroil.PB Blaster in the seam between the inner bearing race and the PTO sleeve. After several hard slams the field coil will drop out Picture 4. You will then have 2 parts picture 5. Time for a coffeee break. More to follow

I think the one on right might be a bit jerky when engaging. I had never looked inside an Electric PTO before...Interesting

It may be in our minds as well because your car A/C unit cycles on and off as you drive with no ill effects.

My Ford had an electric PTO. I tried to have the engine idled down when engaging the PTO no matter what it was connected to (I only had a mower deck and snow blower for it). I do like to be able to gently engage the PTO. My diesel tractor has a 2 stage clutch and I can slowly let it out and gently start things connected to it as well.

I cringe every time I engage mine.

The only electric PTO I have is running the hydraulic pump to a Johnson Workhorse FEL on my GT-14. Sudden engagement is not a concern for me, but if it is engaged and I have the lights on the charging system is being overtaxed, probably not going to change to manual clutch (too lazy), but will probably change the lights to LEDs.