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Just fill to the top of the plug it will be enough. 80/90 weight. No need to flush unless what comes out is milky. Take a pic of what comes out and we'll tell you if it needs flushing. Many of us like to jack the front up as high as safely possible. Another cup or so will come out "over the hump".

Not wanting to do too much to this c-161 that is mostly original, I'm making an exception for solid shaker mounts. That last one seems to always be a challenge but I loosened one of the mounting blocks and was able to start that last bolt. This shored up the primary ground wire while I was at it so that's a plus.

Our volunteer fire company did a how long will it run without oil and coolant pool on a 1952 Chevy six. The engine was warmed up, shut off, fluids drained then restarted with a brick on the throttle pedal. Tickets were sold as a blind pull, you didn't know how how many minutes you bought until you pulled your ticket from the drum. We sold sixty tickets at $ 10.00 each who knew it would run for over an hour without oil and water. It began rattling pretty good at about twenty minutes, stunk real bad at about thirty minutes then started slowing down and backfiring at about fifty five minutes but kept chugging until about an hour and fifteen minutes. The winner declined the opportunity to own the old Chevy, just took his $ 300.00 winnings and donated a hundred of it back to the fire company.

We had a Dodge Dakota at work for pickups & deliveries that had a cap... one day it came back minus the cap - it flew off on Rt 95!

I zinc plated more M37 parts yesterday. Many of these parts will eventually be painted, but the plating will give them extra protection.

@buckrancher Got the rear cargo carrier slot hitch mount mocked up using pieces from the carrier kit and some scrap laying around.

Recently purchased this lawn tractor which I believe is a lawn master for a whole $75 with hopes of restoring it to its former glory and eventually getting some attachments and using it. Trying to identify and get most of the parts I need to do so but have been stuck on the trans axle mainly but also what this thing started out as. Has the frame painted like a porter cable and one other lawn master I’ve seen but obviously was repainted red and even found some small spots of yellow paint on the frame. Anyways can’t find any peerless models that match the trans axle exactly and with some research found out when dura corp first started making the lawn masters and moto mowers they used a trans axle they built in house. But with how much was modified on this thing I’m hoping with these pictures someone on here can help me. On the bright side the 6hp kholer isn’t locked up and still has plenty of oil in it, the gas tank was dry as a bone when I picked it up and the gear oil in the trans axle doesn’t look all that old so my hopes are high for getting her going again, just gonna need a lot of cosmetic and electrical work. I appreciate any and all advice and tips!

And then a few years later, Hightower had driving lessons.

July 11, 1972, Honda introduces its first Civic, a new breed of subcompact, fuel-saving car. It arrives just in time for the energy crisis of 1973, which brings higher gas prices, long lines and occasional fistfights at the pump.

Good job as always getting those motors running. If John and Keven are there guaranteed it would run. running.

The back of the my camper shell was ever so lightly loose so I decided to tighten the bolts a bit. I decided to check the other five bolts and below is what one of them looked like. One failing isn't much of an issue but if the majority of the others had rusted, this could have lead to a disaster Easy to miss some important maintenance.

If easily accessable, remove the shifter & boot and fill thru the hole on top. A good excuse to see if the boot needs to be replaced. That angled fill on the side is a carryover from the old 4 speed design that held 1-1/2 quarts.. You need to fill higher than that. Two quarts. As mentioned above - look at what comes out... not uncommon to see a milky mix of oil & water. Extreme cases - loose bearing needles, chips of gear teeth...

I’ve been in this toolbox for over 25 years. I’ve never decorated it up with stickers like some guys do because i’ve never really found many that i was ok being “stuck” with. Kinda like deciding on a tattoo. I guess that explains why i have no tattoos either. But these stickers were an obviously worthy addition.

Moving the amount the rod moves also changed the amount the clutch idler moves. Decreasing travel may lead to the belt not releasing.

Revenge is best served cold!

Yup looks to have started out as a Lawnmaster... That face takes a bit of getting used to though...! The bug eyes & crooked smile!

Thank you Tony Toro and Handy Don. I did order a fuel pump just like the one in the picture. Funny thing is Amazon would not ship it to my PO Box or to my street address. You can't order directing from Sten so I ordered it from Zoro. I will also try the new diaphragm again and in stall like Handy Don suggested

This is why Red Square is the best forum on the net . Thanks for everyone who made this happen even the two big boss supervisors .

plus peace of mind of not burning up a good engine because of gas in the oil pan.

If you made the diaphragm taut across the body of the pump when you “recut” the holes, then you made it impossible for the mechanism to move the diaphragm up and down to pump fuel. Worse, if the mechanism pushes hard enough against the stretched diapharagm, it causes the rubber to split and gas flows into the oil sump. The holes were likely correct. Some aftermarket diaphragm’s stems are not cut precisely and do require minor adjustments. Correct install: FIRST, plate sand the faces of the body halves to be sure they are flat (the pump body flanges are fairly soft and can be warped by excessive tightening of the closure screws). Connect the diaphragm stem. Put the screws through the upper body, gently forcing the diaphragm onto the screws. Operate the actuator to its limit in one direction or the other to fully pull the diaphragm to its maximum travel. While keeping the actuator pulled, align the screws with the holes in the lower body and gradually tighten the screws sequentially across the body. The diaphragm edges will “scrunch” to make a good seal. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN

Install an electric fuel pump.

I have no gas being pumped by my Kohler K 103 fuel pump. I replaced the diaphragm, the holes in the new one didn't line up so I had to recut them and I had to also modify the stem. The new diaphragm did not resolve my issue and plus now it leaks gas. I cannot find an exact replacement one. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Looks familar - we have Bridge supports that look like that here in RI !!