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Guys from NJ that were at the BS came to it! It was a good show aside from the rain. Daytime was really sunny, hot & humid. Ate good that's fer sure! My main man Jacob @jeremi3210's boy up to his usual antics. A old bhind cultivator with a tecky snow blower repo. He even took his contraption in the parade and a couple of blocks down to A&W.

I concentrated on taking pic's of tractors that are not seen very often. Reo tractor These 2 Speedex were built in the same year. Bush Hog Work Bird one of the first zero turns. Shaw lawn mower. Mighty Might Gavely Westchester with a body by Studebaker. Estate tractor Wagner Little Giant John Deere Sweepster. JD's attempt to enter the gulf cart industry. Brillion Explorer Unsure ? Rugg Huffy Hawk Mayrath's with & with out a body.

What would the show be without you there?

You need a slot hitch or a Brinly. Just remove the pin, take off the spacers and it will fit right in. Looks like might need a lift cable or rockshaft depending on what you want to do. Not sure how/what is needed for a lift cable for a 160 but everything can be had at https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/ You may also have to lose the ball. A Brinly is best for a Brinly field plow. Slot adapters can be had for a slot hitch. I run a slot/draw bar combo on all my horses.

An aftermarket option. https://www.lilredbarn.net/product-p/k321-master-standard.htm I have had very good luck with parts from this seller Very important to know what parts are needed before ordering a kit. Measure your bore and crank pin before you order. This way you know if you will need an over sized piston or an under sized rod. Always send you new parts along with when you take the block or crank to your machinist.

July 14, 1968, Atlanta Braves slugger Henry “Hank” Aaron hits the 500th home run of his career in a 4-2 win over the San Francisco Giants. Henry Aaron was born February 5, 1934, in Mobile, Alabama. The third of eight children, Aaron was a star football player, third baseman and outfielder in high school, and signed with the ***** League’s Mobile Black Bears while still a teenager. He joined the Indianapolis Clowns in 1952 at age 18 and helped them win the ***** League World Series. The next year, his contract was sold to the Milwaukee Braves of the National League. On April 13, 1954, Aaron became the last former ***** League player to make his debut in the major leagues.

Or buy both and put the plow on the Rolls Royce

I do a few rehab projects with grandsons each year...mostly decks, seat pans, few footrests, an occasional plow blade, etc.....some need more rust cleaning than others..if not very severe rust or pitting, then grinder, wire wheel, scaler etc often get job done. However, I did do some consideration couple years ago to buy blaster....Instead, I use a nearby fairly priced professional sand blaster who has done various projects for me... Every one of us has different considerations, but for me I'd rather have him deal with all the downside issues of doing the blasting than me. .... I'm happy dropping project with him and picking it up few days later. No $ cost for me to buy and maintain equipment, buy media, no mess, no labor, no sweating, no clean up, no health considerations, etc....and great perfectly finished beautiful bare metal piece

This '58 classic will be sold at the auction. Ran when parked. Tires hold air. NOS grill. Or should I save my nickel and buy this one.

If the engine handles the task at hand and is not consuming a lot of oil I would consider it a keeper. If you do intend to rebuild the engine here is a thread that will be worth reading. Though this is a small block Kohler build thread the steps taken are the same as your Magnum 14.

More explanation is probably helpful. My idea is to run this up the side and staple it in place, a little glue near the cuts to make a better seal of course. I’ll run aluminum sheet along the walls and over the rubber. In my mind, it’s like building a shower pan. I don’t intend for it to be water proof, but withstand a strategic wash if needed.

The last piece to cover is the ramp flapper. I cut out a piece of rubber and squared it up real good. I glued the face of the rubber and stuck the wood on, maneuvering it around a bit. I then added the e-track weight kits and will let it cure up for a day or so. I’ve got a 3/4” square aluminum tube that I will use as a lock seam for the two loose pieces of rubber. I drilled 17 holes in the tubing and chamfered them for some coarse construction screws to hold it down. Glued of course! It’ll be about 4” back from the edge so it can support the ramp but not elevate it too much. Time will tell if I will need to add a different skid plate at the immediate edge.

Growing up my next door neighbor had one of those open auger Sno-Cannons (" dog eater" ) It would throw the snow over the powerlines and across the highway to the other side without the wind helping it!

Picked up another road killed deer This is the second fawn to be killed this week at the same place 1/4 mile from the house. I haul them to the woods where the eagles, fox, and coyotes can safely feed. Most of these accidents could be prevented if the drivers would only stop and wait instead of slowing down to watch the deer that just crossed in front of them. They usually hit the second or third deer that they never see. Too sad to take pictures of the fawn but Bossy was glad to see me. I always take her an apple.

Dang it Kevin, you're giving me trailer fever!

I rolled out the entire door, cut it to (excessive) length, and rolled it back down. My glue pattern kind of duplicates the idea of an ag tire. I figured a diagonal grip to the wood would ensure maximum grip to a glued surface at any given time. Time will tell if that is a good idea. Like the trailer floor, I used the e-track box to roll out the bubbles and slack. A few passes center, left, right, repeat, and it seemed to flatten out well. I think the ramp worked out better than the trailer floor, but it needs to hold things by itself too. The floor will have e-track to secure it also.

@Fj40z more pics of mochine would be helpful in seeing what your have or have not"s are. If you are missing the lift handle, rock shaft, etc. you may be better off purchasing a whole parts mochine...

Others might be able to tell you for sure but it looks like you need a rockshaft to me I made one of my sleeve hitches. Even making it back around 2018 I think it cost me around $60-70 in material to make one. I also didn't need the rockshaft. Like mentioned you can get everything from wheelhorsepartsandmore. It's not really that easy to get the setup used for cheaper, because not that many people will get rid of those parts.

Almost forgot the Friday parade that ends up at A&W where we can all get some treats if we wish. Lets not forget Mother Natures gift. Around 4" of rain between Wed. and Thurs. night.

who am I kidding?

Sad I remember Chris. Rest in Peace He was a very talented custom car guy and did some cool stuff with the WHs too. We had bought and sold and traded some things with each other

When I was stationed in San Diego back in 1975 I saw him hit a home run.

I ordered a few hundred self tapping stainless screws to install the E-track. I think I have settled on the spacing for the floor pieces. I believe this spacing will work well for any sized GT I have, motorcycles or even a small car. I’ll run the full 16’ for these, starting as close to the back door as possible.

I trimmed the back edge of the floor rubber and trimmed and fastened the ramp rubber. The door closes and opens well!

Momma says I can’t haul with it until it’s done!

Of course edges are left long at this time. I’ll trim it down as needed. I rolled out some rubber and glued the bottom edge in place. I trimmed the lift cable brackets out as close as I could. Then, I reinstalled the hinge.

I got the side door cut in. I left the rubber a bit long, so it can shed water of course.

Agreed. How long since you had the head off to de-carbon the combustion chamber?? You may wish to start there.... Gives you a look-see at the piston (for excessive oil use), the valves, seats, & guides for issues. Remove the breather, check the valve clearances. Then decide if it's a simple cleanup & re-gasket job or a full teardown... If it is a simple upper end job, all the work can be done with the engine left in the tractor. As @Handy Don would say - "there's no need to guild the lily".

ebay- bakt4kids sells a couple of good kits depending on how much you want to rebuild. (no crank shaft).

Thanks for the pics, guys! That snowblower on the Gravely, was that built directly inside the town square of Osha, Wisconsin?

A C-160 should have came with a manual lift bar and mid mount rockshaft for a lift cable.

Sure do see the odd balls there that's fer sure. I'll have to get my pics together and see what I got.

Get a TP Tool cabinet, The HF one didn't have enough slope the media would not get back down to be picked up

I just scheduled one of those forgetting that I had a do-it-yourself scope.

We got to see the Big Boy today and we got a few videos of it along with our 59 Biscayne. 20260712_141811.mp4

@ gt14rider, been using a carbole low pressure 3.5 psi pumps for years , very similar in shape / size , very solid no issues at all , have mine just in front of engine , very good , pete

We got enough done on it in order to take it for a test drive. We've been pecking away at it any time we could. My nephew Paul has been helping me with this one and apparently a little underwhelmed when it took off. The right rear tire is skidding when braking so we'll need to take a look in there and make some adjustments before full throttle in 3rd gear. And that Teccy engine has got to go.

I get it. Our neighborhood is a little closed in for my tastes, but it's what we could afford. We usually get along with these neighbors pretty well, but when left to her own devices this woman is the kind of busy-body that got us things like the temperance movement.

What would the show be without you there? And Mike makes the count complete.

I only have a drawbar on both my WH’s. I’d like to have a clevis hitch or something similar to be able to use a plow or other implements even though I don’t have them yet. Trouble is I’m still fairly green to this whole scene so knowing what I need, options available or if it’s even feasible I do not know. I’ve searched a lot on here and see a lot of WH’s with lift cables or manual lifts and slot hitches and I gotta be honest I can’t figure out from pictures what I’d need or how it bolts up. Here’s a pic of the rear of the C160-8, as always any insight is certainly appreciated!

Click on the fuzzy picture. Belts and blades listed on the page that comes up.

That's going to be hard on you lift cable. The hydrolic jack can lift a lot more then that cable can hold. It's best to have them mounted in a receive hitch. I have.towed tractors with mine as low as it goes it will still lift the front of the tow tractor.

I took some measurements to verify the hinge was indeed centered, then pulled the small ramp off. Funny tid bit, that’s enough weight loss for the door to begin closing itself!

There fixed that... The HF cab works good and even with all the mods bet I ain't got 200 in it. Lots of threads here on them and like said y tube. Make your own cyclone bucket works too. I use the coal slag form TSC. Yah big thing is the air supply. 11-12 cfm @90 PSI minimum for most cabs.

I often insult this chart when I shred one. Belts_Mower_spindle_and_drive_belt_charts.pdf

Check it out

That is a pretty steep angle for splash lube engines do not do that for very long

This morning I did disassembly and cleaned up everything for the new brake lining from @rmaynard and I took my old seal out to realize it’s wrong so I ordered the correct one (hopefully). I should’ve looked at the manual I have for part number from the beginning 🤦🏻‍♂️. So it’ll be a while. I just want a good brake and not roll to a stop.