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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/11/2026 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I must say I don't even have any play in my steering wheel. I'm very happy with this. But just like the 400 series I had. I'm back on the hook for wheel horses. My wife is like hmm savings account hasn't gotten any bigger. And I'm over here thinking welp it's not any smaller. We doing good baby
  2. 1 point
    Yep if your not going to have a ammeter. Double check what solenoid you have. Hate to see you let any magic smoke out.
  3. 1 point
    Pretty sure my solenoid is operated by +12VDC. No biggie. Just looked wrong. I learned something new! So can I run the wire from the middle tab (GEN) directly back to the positive side of the battery? The pic below is a Kohler manual. Just has a meter in series between the center tab and positive terminal.
  4. 1 point
    That is correct KP. The starter button grounds out the solenoid operating it. The the other end of the solenoid coil is internally connected to 12v positive large post. You do have to have the 12v from the battery on the correct large post. I forget if they are labeled or not. If not one way to tell is read through the small post to one of the large posts. You should see the resistance of the coil on one of the large posts. That's the large post that gets connected to the battery. Should be open on the other large post. I have no idea why went this route. It's been said this same solenoid was used on some truck sno plow set ups.
  5. 1 point
    Already did that and tested my grounds. Yep. I'm a proponent of ground jumpers. But... this 701 wiring diagram has some issues. The starter switch for one, goes from ground to the starter tab on the solenoid. Ground start? Also I do not have a working amp meter. Both of the ones I had set aside are open. Can I take my wire from the "GEN" middle tab directly to the positive on the battery?
  6. 1 point
    Mine already looks like that because every wire except the 6 gauge positive battery cables are black
  7. 1 point
    These were really cheap ones too. Two for like $80. I was plowing a furrow for planting more asparagus roots for this one. Second pic is a Wild Game camera at the end of the field.
  8. 1 point
    Pan stand was out for paint. This is the only place on a 520 for it.
  9. 1 point
    Plowing snow! My neighbor and I were both plowing our drives. Me on a C-120 Auto and him on a B-100 8 Speed. I out-plowed him 2 to 1. Consequently he promptly added a Charger 12 Automatic to his collection and loves it for plowing snow. His 8-Speed is definitely better for tilling the gardens.
  10. 1 point
    Jim has his mounted under the seat. @WHX?? you have any pics to share?
  11. 1 point
    I substituted the NLA Onan pump for this Kawasaki pump. Mounting bracket is from a Kawasaki. If you go the electric pump route, connect the positive wire to the positive terminal on the coil. If the safeties are activated the pump will shut down along with the engine.
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    She doesn't get out in the sun much.
  14. 1 point
    Checked the S/G this evening and it's pretty clean with smooth tight bearings. Brushes are decent. Wiped it out, put her back together and bench tested. Tomorrow is electrical day...
  15. 1 point
    A very impressive project. Enjoyed reading and double your thank you to @ebinmaine. He provide me with some much need measurements when I did an engine swap.
  16. 1 point
    'Bout freakin time...
  17. 1 point
    Nice work there! That blade angle at the bottom edge will do its best at mild scraping plus spreading/leveling and even with 48” an 8 or 10 it will manage fine. It will not be much use on unbroken soil/gouging which is just as well ‘cause for that you’d need some extra oomph anyway! (And remember, pressing down too much on the blade with your feet helps the blade but lessens the weight on the wheels and can cause wheel spin!) Another good idea is to avoid heavy uneven loading while it is in use. Excessive pull on one end will try to torque the mid-hitch/frame. The longer WH blades are mounted to the rear axle, similar to a front blade. They can be more aggressive since they tend to dig in when under load where the mid-mount blades tend to lift when under load.
  18. 1 point
    Dust caps! The old 701 will finally get the most attention (finally) for a few days. Gotta get it down from the workstand so the Blackhood can go on! Sheetmetal and paint. NOT my strongsuits!
  19. 1 point
    I had to pause working on the grader blade due to the sale of a motorhome. I had a lot of prep to deal with the sale. Anyway I'm now back working the blade. The pivot shaft is now tack welded to the sector plate which enabled me to mount the assembly on the tractor. Before I go any further, does the angle of the blade look correct? It's sitting on the ground on the floor. There isn't a whole lot I can do if it isn't right other than drill new holes in the blade. On the overall length of the blade, this one is 48" and it seems that the original would have been 42". I think I've seen 50" listed somewhere but I could be wrong on that. Is 48" going to be to much of a blade for the B80 or B100? Thanks! Brad
  20. 0 points
    Sad day... Had to put our lab Denali down today... the cancer caught up with him this afternoon. Labored to breath, seizures, etc. He was a great dog. RIP buddy...
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