Leaderboard

As we are proud grand parents and its little Franks first birthday, what better than his first Wheel Horse. Built by his clever uncle Ewan…

How do you put a value on something that you made into a "one of a kind?" Then really make it special by shipping it half way across the country so a good friend who couldn't be there can see it and ad his signature? When RS members started signing the 20th anniversary banners at the Big Show, I knew I wanted a certain name on it that wasn't at the show. So I sent this to @stevasaurus so he could actually see it in person and autograph it for me. I was leery sending a 4 ft. long box through the mail so NATURALLY it got stuck in Indiana for like 4 days! But it finally arrived and the return trip was flawless. worth all the hand-wringing on my end. If someone wanted to buy the banner from me before I sent it, I would have had a hard time putting a dollar amount on it. Now there is no amount of $$$ I would consider. Someone will get it when I'm gone. PRICELESS!

@whtractors24 Son of gun! You got me beat Jason! Mine has 24 hrs on it. 😂

My 420-lse with only 20 hours . Trying to keep up with @c-series don . 🤠 b93e294b818ae0c0557c55d68b4eae6a.mp4 b93e294b818ae0c0557c55d68b4eae6a.mp4 IMG_0447.mov

TGIF!

Had a few out for some fresh air today.

@sqrlgtr How do you get under trees with that tall flag on the 160?

Made a couple mods to the Wheel Horse tiller. The front cover plate was missing, so I scrounger a piece of steel from an old real estate sign with the intension of sanding it and using the red primer method of creating a matching patina. When I got it installed, I just couldn't sand off the eagle. The tiller was only 22 inches wide, so I added two pairs of tines to each side to make it as wide as the rear tires.

MY BAD!

Leaky seals are a hub removal's best friend They tend to come off relatively easily as compared to dry ones.

Thanks Mike...that was Priceless for sure !!!!

A day late but it happen on Thursday haha

I realized I never started a thread on this attachment, I’ve only mentioned it in other threads. I made a good handful of picks last year and I don’t recall where this came from, but it’s very handy for mowing my deer trails! Since I used it yesterday and seem to loose grip on the old belts, I decided to replace both of them. The spindle belt I used is a Huskee 1/2x86”, but it is tight at the smallest end of my adjuster. I’d recommend to myself next time to use an 87” belt. The PTO drive belt is a 1594 NOS Wheel Horse belt.

That is a nice mellow sound. Be sure to support that with more than just the threaded nipple in the engine block--something that tall has a LOT of leverage!

@Thegearhead0324 That is one of my favorite tractors on Red Square! I always like seeing pictures of it. I’m glad you got a sickle bar back in it. The whole setup is sweet!

July 27, 1940 Bugs Bunny, Warner Bros. cartoon character created by Tex Avery and Bob Givens for the Looney Tunes and Merrie Melodies series, debuts in "A Wild Hare".

You can get more tension on the std Wheel a Matics by replacing the 2 slot head screws with longer allen head screws with a couple of washers. You can it tighter with an allen wrench as opposed to a slot head screw . I did this a year ago and it's still tight.

Built an offbrand Lego set of the 4014 that I got off of Amazon the other day. Even in Lego this thing is huge. Putting it next to the Lego '59 Chevy I got for Easter, its about the same scale factor as in real life so that's a pretty cool coincidence

Which one will make you smile more?? Is the 7K your out of pocket cost or will coverage help out? I doubt that Jason takes supplemental coverage!! I wouldn't!

I drug home a 520HC engine-less roller the other day, I'm contemplating on putting an engine on it and making it a cow field maintenance buggy. Its in good shape, except for the no engine thing. Because... why not.

Scored some rear WH wheel weights and some FMC wheel weights today . The WH weights are going on the C160 if I dont change my mind. Leaning 520H for the FMC weights. They look just like some Bolens weights I have seen before. Got the xtra 7 1/2” WH wheels for free. Been a good morning these wheel weights are pretty rare around here so I’m happy to have found them.The WH weights are white but think I like um red better did certain years have red and others have white weight?

We drivers of hydros and brake/clutch combo pedals would never figure this out!

Do brakes have Magic Smoke or is that reserved for wiring harnesses?

Parking brake still locked on?

Nice! The factory WH rear weights allow you to unbolt the rim with the weight attached - one less step in doing a winter changeover. The Bolens style do not. But as far as weightt goes - if they weigh the same, weight is weight..... I picked up a pair of 70 pound weights a few years ago and added a 20 pound barbell weight inside that fit the stock C81 rims. Two of the 4 bolts hold the 20 pounders.

Use lettuce for bait and not the devil's kind. Chuckles love lettuce. Go to taco bell see if they got any.

@c-series don Thank you, that means a lot! Yes I’m happy with the sickle bar, much better shape than my other and all original. During the winter I have to fill in drilled holes I have on my hood, I mounted the lights on brackets I made mounted on the frame and now the holes are an eye sore.

This is going to sound stupid, but I had a similar thing on my C-160. The RPMs would change when the deck was raised up to the stops. The hood stand was cracked on the left side where it meets the frame. The rock shaft was lifting the hood stand which in turn would pull on the throttle cable

Nice. a few comments in no particular order: Fiberglass panels… Up to a pretty impressive limit, the fiberglass panels will be incredibly damage resistant. Unlike metals, fiberglass composite is completely elastic right up to its failure point. So as long as it doesn’t crack, it will rebound fully. The polyester resin matrix will, over time, yellow and lose some translucency due to UV exposure. It will also get a little more brittle as this happens and will eventually start to bloom some fibers. Depending on the inhibitor package mixed into the resin you can expect 7-10 years outside. Keeping it inside stalls that deterioration process. Even without sun, the inhibitors will still be consumed and lose effectiveness over time. The most active degradation reaction mechanism is called free radical polymerization by the way. This is when a photon on UV light knocks an electron loose from a molecule and which is then free to swim around in the plastic and react with things. Commonly, additional cross links form between polymer chains, thus stiffening and embrittling them. The inhibitors are mostly free radical scavengers which have active sites that have a special affinity for those radicals. analog free radical reactions happen in your skin and tissues too causing all mannee of damage. All those makeup and cosmetics commercials you see have a (very small) kernel of truth to them when they talk about such things. Lights… I’ve seen people shoehorn a 5A blade type fuse into the two adjacent battery and taillight pins of the 7 way plug to power up their running lights from the brake battery. Apparently if you lightly twist the blades just a little bit it will pop right in. Same as the jumper, but with a bit of protection in case something goes wrong. I rigged up a toggle switch at the junction box on my trailer (just like your pic) between the battery terminal and backup terminal so I could switch on a reverse facing flood lamp and power it from the truck supply independent of having the gearshift in reverse. This gives me a work light available and a backup lamp for nighttime launching. I’ve used it a couple of times and it’s been a nice addition. I just assumed the lamp would work from the trailer’s onboard brake battery too even when unplugged from the truck. No such luck. My battery is apparently isolated via a diode so it doesn’t backfeed the truck or allow power to be present out at the plug. I don’t know what the convention is, but mine doesn’t permit powering up anything from the battery and yet apparently others (like yours) do. I assume that same diode also clips off a half a volt or so of charging voltage when connected to the truck and may be the reason I only get a couple years out of a battery…it’s chronically undercharged. Chargjng… You can install a fairly cheap DC-DC converter or DC-DC Battery Charger between the trailer power wire and your battery to achieve a full charge. If you pick a small one you don’t have to worry about overcurrenting the feed from the truck as they are self-limiting and also typically don’t allow battery discharge back through them when off. Nice ones have adjustable charge profiles to allow you to later switch battery chemistry if you desire. Most aren’t weather sealed tightly enough to be mounted outside, so it would have to live inside like your inverter. Some even have Solar charge controllers in them to allow roof mounted panels to charge the battery too. still on charging… I haven’t done it, but I am considering running 6 AWG wire ftom my truck’s battery to an Anderson connector under the rear bumper. From there, plug in another cable and run it up into my boat where it would feed a sizable DC-DC charger to charge the 24v battery bank for the trolling motor. A second circuit would go to the 12v cranking battery. I’ve moved my boat to a storage lot that doesn’t have power and this would enable me to recharge at a high rate while traveling to and from the lake. As it stands now, I take a little generator with me that I run on the return trip to get as much back into the batteries as I can. What’s happening is I’m slowly killing my lead acid batteries since they never get fully charged. Eventually they’ll be lithium which charge quickly and tolerate being stored with a partial charge, two things lead acid don’t. But I’d still benefit from at least being able to actually top them up fully. there are days where I might draw 35A out of my 24V system for a couple of hours. Best case, I can only get 5A out of the current charger and I might only run the gennie a couple hours. So I’m presently going the wrong way most of the time. I can see this sort of setup having significant utility for campers or trailers like yours. I think on the road at high engine speeds the alternator would cool sufficiently and its internal currents would be low since the voltage would be up Not cheap of course, but manageable. Finally, inverters… It’s not going to be common, but if your inverter isn’t a pure sine wave inverter you may find some devices that won’t like it and may not run. Some inverters put out a square wave or choppy/noisy modified waves that some equipment might recognize as problematic and not operate. We tinkered with a sizeable modified sine wave inverter at work on a piece of equipment and the onboard microwave oven didn’t even try to run, yet everything else seemed fine. The takeaway from this should be to make sure you trial everything before you take a trip away from home base. Great progress. Looks like a pleasurable diversion. Steve

The last couple of days I've done the little nitpicky jobs like welding some hood mounts on, wiring up the kill switch, installing the throttle and choke cable, putting oil in the engine, and running the fuel line. I'm close to being able to run and drive it I just need to get the carb straightened out because at the moment it only runs on a shot of brake clean and isn't getting fuel. I did pop the line if the carb to make sure I had fuel going to it but I think the main problem is that its all gummed up from old fuel because when I took the bowl off it smelled like varnish and it was very dark and cruddy.

Well....it looks like I've got my winter project lined up, just picked it up today Found this one on FB and after thinking about it for a few days I contacted the seller and we made the deal. The ad listed the tractor, 5' pto mounted finish mower and possibly a push blade (if he could find it!). While I was on the road going to pick it up he texted me and mentioned they found a few more implements and I could have them if I wanted them. Heck yeah!! Included in the package was the tractor, finish mower, snow plow, Brinly disc harrow, what appears to be a Ford 3pt plow and a homemade 3pt plow, and what might be a homemade box blade although it looks pretty decent. It has the optional 15" rear wheels with rear wheel weights. The snow plow is for the B and C series tractors and the sad part is according to the seller, his father bought the blade in new condition from someone who never used it. So basically it's a brand new blade that's been sitting outside for at least 20-30 years. Oddly enough the seat looks almost brand new. It turns out every fall his dad would take the seat off and store it inside, putting it back on in the spring. The gas tank looks solid but there is a distinct possibility it will need to be boiled and then sealed inside to make it useable. The story behind the tractor is the sellers dad bought it 30 years ago and used it for 12 years before parking it, they started using a zero turn which was faster. For 11 of those 18 years that it sat outside unused. Seven years ago he moved it into his basement with the hopes of restoring it. Unfortunately he never got around to it. In theory, it was running and driving when parked. Oh yeah almost forgot, included was the original operators manual AND an original parts list. For the past few days I tried searching for a downloadable parts list and couldn't find one. I am going to scan this one and if possible upload it to the forum. Possibly someone could explain how to do the upload. One quick question, it needs mufflers, are there suitable replacements available that don't cost $603 each as shown on the Toro site. Thanks! More to come.... Edit: it also came with a 3 pt cultivator and what i thought was the operator manual is actually a service procedure manual that describes all of the new features of the new 18 HP model with detailed descriptions and pictures. The manual was intended for the mechanics that went through their service school.

And the 3/4" hitch pin.

There is a ton of twist in the frame of this. @c-series don gave me a straight frame, and I need to transfer all the hardware over. It needs new bushings for the spindles and I’d like to give it some sort of lift kit for the big weeds and grass.

Big trash night score tonight... Picked up down the street with the A-60 and the trailer... Owner says ran when parked... we'll see. Motor spins freely.

Raining here so snapped pic in basement of C160 waiting to go out side and play

Today's progress so far has been welding up a cracked seat pan, putting the tranny on, putting the front axle on, putting wheels on it, cutting the top of the tower off because it was too tall, putting the fenders together and putting them on, measuring where to cut the too long steering shaf, and setting the little bits and pieces on it for mock up.

I see there is a pretty 420SLE in the classifieds for $6500. I just came from the dentist and he wants $7000 to implant a molar. Has this world gone crazy, or is it just me?

@Racinbob. Pm me your address and I'll send you some extra decals I have.

Looks pretty good. Bigger is not necessarily better. Head shots are what you want... bigger will grab their middle and not kill as quick... I Set it vertically at the opening to the hole. In or out they run into it and boom... I've had 0 luck with horizontal placement...

Thanks Richard I already consulted Grok AI and have a relay ordered coming here Tuesday Many cheap relays have inconsistent wire colors, so testing the pinouts yourself is the smart way. How to identify the terminals once you have the relay Standard 5-pin Bosch-style pin numbers (look on the bottom of the relay itself): 85 and 86 = Coil (the two that make it click) 30 = Common 87a = Normally Closed (this is the one we need for the kill) 87 = Normally Open (we leave this unused) Simple testing method (with a multimeter or just a 12 V battery) Find the coil (85 & 86) Put 12 V across any two of the small wires/pins. When you hear a solid click, those two are 85 and 86. It doesn’t matter which is which for our purpose. Find 30, 87a, and 87 With the relay not powered (no click): Continuity between 30 and 87a → that is the Normally Closed pair. Power the coil (make it click): Continuity switches to 30 and 87. Mark the wires Once you know: The wire that is always connected to 30 when the relay is off = 87a (Normally Closed) The common wire = 30 Final connections for your kill circuit Vanguard black kill wire → Relay terminal/wire 30 Relay 87a → Chassis ground One coil terminal (85 or 86) → “I” (Ignition) terminal on the 520 switch Other coil terminal → Chassis ground That’s it. Test by turning the key — engine should run in RUN and die in OFF. When the relay arrives, do the click-and-continuity test above and you’ll know exactly which wires to use, regardless of the colors. Let me know the results if you want a double-check.

Looks like it would be about right, but I find Vevor products to be variable in quality. It might be a good idea to be able to move the charger between tow vehicles and trailers as needed, just use quality connectors and provide weather protection. I don't know about running that charger without a battery, perhaps you can get the manual for it. You still need wiring heavy enough to carry the amps involved at the estimated distance and voltage, the charger won't be able to compensate for wires that are just too small. Another option is to run an inverter for 120VAC and use a small battery charger. The 120 volts can use much smaller wire to cover greater distances and then the charger can be close to the battery, of course you need to protect the higher voltage system well. I wouldn't be very comfortable with 120 volts across the hitch because of potential damage or error.

Very nice, now you need to work on your "WALL ART" to keep up with @c-series don.

DNA 1980-1984 Carrier model 07-01MC01 1985-1988 Carrier model 07-01MC02 1989-1993 Carrier model 07-01MC03 1994-1998 Carrier model 79380 Taken from this service bulletin Drive belt with front mower carrier and single cylinder engine 109956 (1/2" x 102") Drive belt with front mower carrier and twin cylinder engine 102742 replaced by 94-2501 (1/2" x 103") The 1594 belt used in this thread by Pullstart (1/2" x 107.21")

DO NOT USE A STANDARD THREE JAW PULLER. DO NOT USE A STANDARD THREE JAW PULLER. DO NOT USE A STANDARD THREE JAW PULLER. I set that text three times. One for each jaw that you shall not use. An old hub is a good puller. There are good threads that show good pullers.

I should know better than to brag on how well the truck ran. Well, i discovered oil in the antifreeze-not a lot probably no more than a cup-but enough to let me know I had an issue. No bubbles in the radiator, so I assume it wasn't a cracked head or blown head gasket. The engine has never overheated. The oil in the engine was low mileage and still clean and it showed no water. In conferring with a mechanic buddy he and I wondered if it was a leak in the motor oil cooler inside the radiator? I was pretty sure it was motor oil and not automatic transmission fluid. I bought a new radiator after pressure testing and finding seeping antifreeze in the old one between the plastic and aluminum when I applied 20 psi. The radiator cap is 16#. I disconnected the lines from the radiator and was hoping to see if pressurizing the radiator would produce a leak from the in-tank engine oil cooler connection point but couldn't hold pressure long enough, Once I had the old radiator out, out of curiosity, I removed the oil cooler, placed it in water and pressurized it. A steady stream of small bubbles came from inside the hollow tube. I had no idea of what the cooler was going to look like. I'm amazed that much cooling takes place.

deflection if you will. It has the ability to ride up large objects that may be hiding in the long grass. It’s quite nice to have the hopping bugs gone baby the time I arrive too!

I mowed my elderly parents lawn for them a few weeks ago. I did it with the 312-8 after their 20 year old Cub Cadet's PTO decided it wanted to stop engaging. It was past due, but the tractor kept chugging along. My parent's, specifically my mother was happy was taken care of.