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April 17, 1964 The Ford Mustang officially debuted at the New York World's Fair in New York City.

I have been known to turn off my phone prior to our Wednesday Bible study and not remember it is off until I go to turn it off on Sunday for church.

I have a few I made with my " Poor Mans Lathe!"

What a beast

How did we ever survive before all of this technology? Disconnecting for a couple days isn't necessarily a bad thing.

So I pulled the trigger on the bearings @Achto posted since i have a set to paint. They look pretty good ... fairly tight and only maybe a couple thou of wiggle. Picked a seal and yah very little grease in them so they will get repacked with greasy Pete.

You have to use an older phone there.

You don't need no stinkin phone. You wanna yak with 'Fish you ride on over. One of the reasons I go to is to get away from it. Long as the camera works for the thousands of yer gonna take!

I've repaired a few brass floats. Dry it off, shake it and the gas will seep a wet spot around the hole to identify it's location, if one is there. Make the hole a little bigger to shake out what liquid you can and use napkin/paper towel to help suck it out. Then light it on fire ( Don't worry it won't blow up) and the little flame will also heat the brass creating pressure inside of it pushing out all of the fumes to burn off. Basically burn the gas out until the flame goes out. Solder the hole. The flame burns like the size of a Bic lighter. Obviously not a technique for plastic floats. It can be done if there's still liquid gas in it too but it takes longer and if you leave it burn too long it can get hot enough to melt the original solder on it. Guess how that was discovered? LOL Do it in steps until it doesn't burn anymore. If you can't hold it with your fingers it's getting too hot. Typically takes about 5-10 minutes from discovery of fuel in it to being repaired and back in the carb good to go. No need to buy and wait for a new one to arrive. Or keep one on the shelf and repair the hole when time allows so it's waiting for the next time. Rinse and repeat. The vent hole. But it's going to be different on a Walbro carb

I’ve often found mine still quiet on Tuesday or Wednesday after silencing it on Sunday morning!

The PT Cruiser convertible with the top down always looked to me like it was a poor mans Funeral Flower Car. I was involved with the power top switch cluster where I worked... not the actual switch, but the cluster we assembled.

I do not own this model but based on other Wheel Horses I suspect that the fuse holders are located near the battery. If one of the fuse holders has become corroded due to fumes from the battery over time it will become a poor conductor of electricity and could be your problem.

My experience shows me that if a carb EVER had ethanol or MAY have had ethanol (you don't know) then it just automatically gets a rebuild. That's become no more negotiable than an oil change. A lot of the nut driver sockets that attach to a screwdriver 🪛 handle type driver will work. Not the one piece tool. The little separated bits.

And don't touch yer yapper until you wash your hands. Tastes like crap and makes your tongue and lips numb. ...At least that's what I hear.

Whenever I got bit I went to the VA and they never tested for it. They said it may show up but probably not. They just gave me pills and sent me packing. I never got the bullseye. My dad got it with a huge bullseye and the doc up north knew right away what it was since it's common up there. They gave him pills where he couldn't have alcohol for a couple of weeks. I'll have none of that ...

If you are referring to the round hood style rear fenders (32R/ 32E, 33R/ 33E, 34R/34E), they would only fit if you modify the sheetmetal underneath. The original 65-67 fender support runs horizontally front the tower to the rear of the seat pan. The easiest thing to do is find a 62-64 Ranger center column. That wasn't an option for me because they don't turn up here in NC very often. Of course that requires using a different hood as well... I added round fenders on my son's 1967 Ranger but alot of fabrication was involved. The toolbox for round fenders is a couple inches shorter so I not only had to cut the original 67 support to allow for the toolbox to mount on the transmission, but I also had to cut and weld an angle into the center to match the round fender tool box. You could just cut the original fender support to allow the round fender toolbox to fit, but it will be a couple inches higher than the top of the toolbox.

By the time I was finished dialing, I'd have forgotten who I was calling.

Thanks to the dimensional info from ebinmaine and the information previously posted by others I've made some progress on fabricating the grader blade components. Other than the block that the lift arm connects to on the main support arm, it's ready to weld together. The blade itself has previously been fabricated. I'm currently waiting on the plate that bolts to the blade, I'm having it bent to shape in a fab shop close by. After that I'll mill the three slots and make the pivot pin. I'm sure the lift arm won't be exactly like an original, but it should be close enough to function.

Shortly after I built the flame it started spewing gas. Yep pin hole in float. I was too stupid to pull the float off and check it just dropped the bowl and checked the valve. I had the bowl off ten times before I got off the recliner and checked the float. A very small hole and just for $hit$ & grins tried to repair it. You know just to see if I could. Enlarged the hole with a dental pick and shook the gas out and set in a warm place to further evaporate it out. Then just soldered it shut. Being brass soldered up easy. Still working to this day. I had pics if I could find them ...

As many of you know, Verizon is the big winner at the South Mountain Fairgrounds. For those of you who have any phone on the AT&T network, you are 99% sh!t out of luck. Those carriers include, but are not limited to: Cricket Wireless Consumer Cellular Boost Mobile H2O Wireless PureTalk Red Pocket Mobile US Mobile (under their "Dark Star" network option) Good2Go Mobile FreeUP Mobile FreedomPop As of last year, T-Mobile did not work either. According Wallfish T-Mobile is okay. There may be more. Verizon service is excellent. Other members may chime with what works for them. I personally have a dual SIM phone. My main system is Consumer Cellular (AT&T), but the other SIM is Tracfone (Verizon). For many years I just bought a burner on Verizon and forwarded all my calls to it before I reached the fairgrounds.

https://www.overtons.com/aero-cosmetics-rubber-care-rubber-and-plastics-conditioner-and-protectant-16-oz.-158286.html? been detailing cars for years , the recovery rate of this is amazing , read instructions , quickly refreshes , vinyl / plastic , headlights , try a regular issue area , its gone . the effect on plastic lens covers , is simple easy . look around the net for best price , pete

Glad to help. I can get that for you sometime tomorrow.

Just reuse the old one. You won't ruin it use a a dental pick. Carefully get under the outside edge and it will pop right out and snap right back in. Leave it out if you intend to grease through the zerk. Only problem with this is the grease gun can pop the outside seal right out if too many pumps on the gun. Use Lowell's hubcaps then. https://wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/product/109154-2816-red-dust-caps-wheel-horse-qty-2/

@kpinnc lucas green x tra hd , chassis grease , read the heat / stress specs / polyurea , in all my needle bearings , just a very little bit , part of the pto related gold mine of improvement area . finish with a heim joint . love repetitive problems , make a change , pete

Also, don't get it on yer fishin' line. It melts Mono.

Two goals of the bumper touch: 1) a non-metal-to-metal upper limit to travel, and 2) a stabilizing position for the raised deck when driving around. The different holes in the rock shaft arms give different amounts yield different lift distances. Those closest to the shaft have the least movement but need the least effort to lift and vice-versa for those farthest out. Maybe the two tractors’ are not set up the same for mower lifting?

The bolt is right hand threaded but some thread-locker was used on the bolt from the factory. Heating the bolt up (not to red hot) will help get it moving. Be sure to use some blue or red thread locker when the bolt goes back in.

I was stationed at the Brookline Navy Yard in 1964 and attended the World's Fair several times. I remember looking at the Mustang as it rotated in its display and wanting to own one. On Navy pay at the time it was not something that would happen then. Nearly four decades later Chrysler did the same with it's PT Cruiser using the Dodge Neon platform and running gear. It looked cute and an aggressive marketing campaign (including PT Cruiser events paid for by Chrysler) made this underpowered, underwhelming car a commercial success. Poor timing with the economic downturn of 2008 brought it to a painful death rather than evolving into a legendary success the way the Mustang did.

I'm at about my wits end on this issue I'm struggling to resolve. It all began while mowing my yard, when my PTO deck shut off. I came to a stop then shut off the switch, then turned it back on, and nothing....at first. After a few seconds, it kicked off again. Did a repeat of actions and after a delay, it started up again; however, this time when it cut out, the engine started misfiring till it eventually just shut down. After some googling, it leaned toward either a weak battery, or malfunctioning PTO clutch that was killing the battery almost instantly. I also saw that if it was the latter situation, that sometimes it can overheat the PTO switch, to the point of being useless. Right or wrong, my next step was to bypass the PTO clutch connection. This still did not allow the tractor to fire up. Then, to eliminate some of the other possibilities that were mentioned online, I went ahead and ordered a new oem key switch, solenoid, and PTO switch while I had the battery charging (even though only a year old and was still about 12.8 volts prior to charging). I installed the new parts one at a time to see if anything made a difference, but to no avail. Finally, I was able to locate the wiring schematic online and replaced the 3 fuses (even though they weren't blown), and started testing/bypassing the safety switches. The schematic only shows 4 switches in the circuit, plus the PTO switch; however, mine had 2 neutral switches (schematic shows 1) for a total 5 switches & PTO switch. In the end, I managed to create a closed circuit that went to the seat switch, to the brake switch, parking brake switch and both neutral switches with a reading of 12.8 volts at each bypass. I can't remember the name at the moment, but I also replaced small rectangular, aluminum part that had a plug going to it at the same time as the other parts. I don't know what I did at one point in this process, but I did manage to get it to start, but then I couldn't shut off with the key (old ignition switch). I cleaned up the engine ground surface and replaced the connections with new. I don't know if it's some sort of ground issue, or it has something to do with having those 2 neutral switches instead of 1, or what. Maybe I should take another stab at it by replacing the "kill relay", maybe "switch relay" as well, just to eliminate those possible problems. I'm totally at a loss for things to try at this point; and any advice would be a blessing. Process of elimination hasn't seemed to bear any fruit yet.

Welcome to Red Square. Have you seen the wiring diagrams where each circuit has it's own diagram? Makes diagnosis easier. Double check the ignition switch with the one in the main diagram. Terminal identities and location are important. Although the tractor has magneto ignition it also uses a battery type of ignition switch to control a kill relay to turn the ignition on and off. Click on the picture of the tractor in this ink to see the diagram and download the 5-page file. We may also have pin-out diagrams for the individual switches to show how they should function. Look through them all as they are in a random order in this link. Also noticed the start and kill relays are the same part so a swap may help with diagnosis. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=72045&quick=1&type=downloads_file Keep us posted on your thoughts.

I have an AT&T phone and your right reception is not good there. I'm OK with that though, most of the people I want to talk to that weekend are at the show anyway.

I think those K181 run best with a 1 to 2 Psi pumps. Thats what I have on 856 . Also I have this on a 1057. Start up turn key and it is all ready running. I hope this helps. You and your son enjoy the ride when done.

Kpinnc: I agree with that Just not what I was looking for in a garden tractor. This was my one and only No name 8.I converted it to a B-80 tires.

Looks factory to me. Well done!

Yup AT & T and Consumer Cellular. The double whammy. Randy has Verizon I think so I can borrow his phone unless I need to call him I had a Trac Phone years ago. My B-I-L bought a new shop and had Verizon Installed there. He couldn't call anyone on his phone but I could on my $19.95 special! They have been laying cables for almost a year now in the hospital since University of Rochester moved in. We have 3 Wi fi box gizmo's just in the shop alone. I'm telling everyone they have camera's in them to spy on us so now they are all paranoid!

That is not an overly difficult job. Do a search in the Transmissions section - there have been many postings about what to do & not to do. DO check the condition of the drum or shaft for excessive wobble first before you pull the seal. If there is any up & down or side to side movement, it is a complete waste of time & money to replace just the seal... Looseness means internal wear. In & out movement is OK

Float not full of gas ... hole in it?

What's the exact fuel pump you're using?

It’s not Friday but here’s a front end pic of my 1257.

Well, there's definitely a reason for those types of disclaimers! LOL And along with not burning a plastic float, don't ingest the battery acid either

to the

April 16, 1900 US Post Office issues its first stamp booklets containing 12, 24, or 48 two-cent stamps.

Got it (I think) #100441 thanks again for the file and advice

I appreciate you letting it slide but it’s not my first time being a “rebel” with the wrong day . Oops.

My new ride