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Couldn’t get this one fired up today…motor didn’t make a sound. Also the rear tires are constantly flat..super annoying! It’s tractors like this that make me wanna get outa the hobby

Deck and mule drive stays in place with mine.

Yeah, here's what they look like Those tie rods don't go in on a locking tapered fit like automotive ball joints do. Loosen the nut to the end of the threads (to protect them) and hit it with a hammer to knock it through the hole if it's rusted together. If the nut is locked on the threads and it's just spinning, try twisting the rod by the locking nut with a wrench which will add friction to the joint.

Ran when parked...

Maybe a good time to repeat the first post. Hope to read another 25K posts.

Mine is not as refined, but attaches in the belly first and the front swings up and locks. Definitely better attaching in both places if for some reason the trailer is lighter at the nose.

Haven’t been out in the woods in a loooong time. Property isn’t mine, and there’s a forestry company dropping trees so it’s a bit of a maze out there. Was still nice to just putt around in the woods.

Go For a Ride Day, celebrated on November 22, urges you to just get up and get out! Do you ever feel like you’re tied to your laptop/phone/tablet screens? We’ve become a pretty sedentary bunch — a far cry from the people who discovered countries, oceans, and animals simply by getting off the couch and exploring. Make today a day to set your spirit free and enjoy your wanderlust on whatever mode of transportation suits you best. Bike, boat, car, skateboard, sleigh, Wheel Horse — it doesn’t matter what you choose! Pick a location you’ve always wanted to visit and make today the day you’ll go.

A perfect page 1000 if ever there was such a thing!

It appears the Wheel Horse bug has hit for real. Stumbled upon this 520-H not even 5 minutes from our shop. Really don't need another project to add to the list, but couldn't pass it up for the price. It's pretty rough. Almost 2k hours, single owner machine though. What I know so far: Owner said "it needs a starter solenoid".... Does not run. Will crank (solenoid is fine) and has compression. Looks like they hooked up the replacement ignition coil wrong and sent battery 12v+ to the ground side of the ignition module. It's toast, as is the coil. Pretty pricey way to start the revival, but it is what it is. Followed proper procedure for testing both components and they are indeed bad. Steering is extremely sloppy. Most of it is in the tie rod ends, but a good portion of it appears to be in the steering gear backlash. Has hydraulic leak near the rear somewhere. Has previous owner wiring "fixes". Loaded rear old school Goodyear treads. Deck shell looks newer than the rest of the tractor. Maybe a replacement? Has axle bracket installed. Dash lights all come on at startup, but I will plan on going through the whole system. Don't like having hidden gremlins and I enjoy the electrical challenge. All in all, pretty excited.

Bought this about three years ago finally got all the parts I needed to put this rj together

LOTS of stuff done today. The BBT and her momma processed more firewood. Several loads brought up from down back by the garden. Cut. Split. Stacked. She and I both worked on finishing up the disassembly of the 520H parts tractor. This induction heater is THE cat's meeeyoww. I got the plow, frame, and rear bracket off the Workhorse GT1800. That tractor is in the workshop space now for maintenance. @OldWorkHorse has expressed interest in owning it. It'll get a carb cleaning and someother work done first. I flipped the cutting edge on the plow I took off of that tractor. It's been worn off and redrilled in the past. Worn off again. Now flipped. After that I reorganized the tractor storage portable garage to get the snow machines to the front. Trina dropped the oil outta the Ariens Commercial walk behind snowblower. I'll be installing the plow sides I got from @Joe M 2 1/2 years ago. That will be a 42" wide scoop. For now... in my 1975 C160 Automatic. If I can find time I'll be installing the hydro lift assist on The Ugly Bruce 1978/9 C121 and swapping the scooper to that. If that happens I'll install the Two Stage snowblower on the C160 Automatic....

I put this one together for my crane in just a few hours with a section of an old frame that had a fractured F-bracket. Similar to the others shown, attach to the mid-tach and lift to latch in front. I think I'm going to make another one with a rack for weights now that I'm thinking about it again.

GOT EM!! I used my induction heater I picked up a few months ago.

I subscribe to @wallfish 's solution as well but try this first. This was inexpensive at HF and I use it for more than ball joints.

Welcome Ron. It is real hard to get all of the old oil out of the Eaton 11 system. Is the oil just cloudy or is the pronounced water that comes out of the drain plug? Motor oils can take up to 1% water and retain their lubrication ability. I would not panic. Like HD says, the bulk of the oil is in the sump and filter and you have drained those. Some residual is in the charge circuit. One question is how long have you left the sump drain? If you raise the front of the machine up and leave it over night that will help the drain. If the oil is just cloudy it would be best to run it a few hour and preform a drain and refill.

My "adorable" front hitch was designed to be simple to attach - leaving the cutting deck in place and just switch the mule drive out and cut grass. That was important to me...

This front hitch is built a little different, but it is strong, comes right off and works great.

I mounted the receiver on the left side of my 312H. I can still use the mule drive and deck and fully open the hood. Best of all, I can see the ball when lining up to the trailer hitch.

In 1973, all the previous "A/B/C/D" series were stripped of thier names and just given a hp and tranny type designation. Guessing it had to do with the sale of the company and AMC couldn't quickly come up with names that went well with Gremlin and Pacer...

You old trail boss you.

I concur emphatically with this choice. In the right hands, this ball joint wedge fork is a true timesaver. It has a smaller cousin for tie rods. In the wrong hands, the fork can fly out, go across the room and get imbedded in the water heater... A lot to do with the choice of extractor tool is whether or not the joint is being reused. The fork usually tears up the boot... Sometimes... just wedging it in and pushing down on the opposite end is enough to pop it loose.

You guys do realize that this thread is from 13 years ago right?!!

Jack up the front of the tractor so the front wheels are a foot or two off the ground while draining the oil out. There’s an internal hump in the transmission. Jacking it up will help get the oil over that hump. Also cycle the hydraulic cylinder a few times to help purge the hydraulic valve, lines, and cylinder of water. Do you have any pictures of your tractor? Those 400 series are some of my favorite WH’s ! I have a 416-H, 417-A, 418-C, 418-8, and a 420-LSE.

We have reached 1000 pages of wheelhorse and other random stuff information and just a bunch of really interesting conversations and learning points

Sure is too bad the calendar is already out!!

Here's mine... Made out of a mule drive... pops on and off quick.

I'd need a toilet paper holder.

These are very helpful also. Sold at Harbor Freight for a few bucks.

So what, that's it? Slacker!

Haha! Thanks Jim, I needed a good laugh

Last night I ordered Base Kit-1 as recommended by Lowell along with a bunch of other odds and ends, including a replacement hitch pin to replace the one I cut into three pieces. Hopefully by the time the parts arrive I'll have the two cases prepped and ready for bearing installation.

Hey all, thank you all so much for weighing in! @kpinnc funny enough mine is doing the opposite. Start her up and get to WOT, and she charges at about 14.0V for 5 min, then once she's warmed up it slowly starts creeping up to 16+V and settles there. @JCM thanks for correcting me, ugh! I'm usually really good with numbers. I did know it was a 1985. I was just telling a friend about my Remington 870 Wingmaster I recently restored, which is a 1980, and I think I had that number stuck in my head @953 nut thanks for sharing that! I have trouble comprehending these diagrams but I'll tuck away just in case @pfrederi I think I'm going to take your advice. Hell, the voltmeter didn't even work on it originally and previous owner said he didn't notice it ha! Bothers me that it was running at 14V and recently changed, so I wonder what changed, but if she keeps chugging along I'll run with it! I'll got an update today. Got the new battery in. I also ordered a new starter solenoid. Can't remember if I posted here, but I was checking all of my connections and thought the positive lead on the starter solenoid was a hair loose. Went to tighten it, and it snapped the brass(?) bolt halfway down the threads... ugh! I was going to replace it, but then realized that the mounting bolts have nuts on the inside end I'm having trouble getting my hands into, and really don't want to pull the dash covers to get there. I ended up just removing the thicker inside nut/washer to gain more thread space, replaced it with a thin washer, and found a spare nut that was thinner and had the same threads to clamp the positive wires back down. Think there is any issue to that? It's starting fine. Figured why replace the entire thing if it's working! Attached a photo of the end result. Anyway... put in the new battery. Did the Poor Man's load test before anything. Wow, it passed! Never dropped below 11V I think, and man it was cranking much faster and staying there! I think my battery has been bad since I bought it last year because this thing is cranking maybe 3 times as faster than it ever did! I just thought these Wheel Horses were slow to crank New battery in, but unfortunately high charging still the same... after a few minutes of warmup, goes from 14.V to 15.0V and ends up at about 15.9V and stays there, within 5 min or so of running at WOT. As @pfrederi said I think I'll just roll with it. Everything working as it should. Does anyone know what symptoms would come from overcharging too long, so I can keep an eye out? Is the worst case that I just weaken the battery over time? If that's all, then no biggie to me. This battery was 60 bucks and if it lasts a few years I'm happy! Thanks all

Looks like a $400 48" er.

I am not sure about Ron but I left one out for 2 winters. I was out of room and figured those transmissions are sealed up pretty good. The snow and rain pooled around the fill tube and migrated into the case. I figure the heat cool cycles helped too. That was the only way I figured it got into the case. At work we had found pallets of oil that was contaminated with water. Found out the supply yard thought they could leave the 5 gallon cans out in the weather. Heating and cooling, the rain that was on top of the cans got sucked inside. Industrial CSI

Like chocolate and vanilla? Or... crabs & crawdads?? Excellent adaptation for light duty usage with great line-up visibility If it were any easier, you could just whistle, and the coupler of the splitter would jump on to the hitch by itself!!

Could you drill it out and press in a bronze bushing and then put in a new seal?

Not much I can add to what Joe and Don have said. Since oil floats on water it may be advisable to allow time for the two to separate prior to the next draining. This service manual for the Eaton1100 may be helpful.

@ebinmaine @Sparky You guys want it? It’s my brother’s and he is thinking about getting rid of it. It’s pretty solid.

Next one of those blocks that I drill out and install bushings into will get well documented. Likely next summer.

Make absolutely sure that fender latch is in good shape. Those fenders have a funny way of introducing new ways to dismount the machine. ...ask me how I know. I had no idea that I could flip that many times over level ground. My FIL wants to put a big metal hood latch on his. He also has experienced the "C series flip".

@Wishin4a416 Kohler K or Magnum?

Breathtaking to realize that spaceflight to, landing on, and returning from the moon used computers that had small fractions of the processing power, working memory, and storage capacities of a modern cell phone.

Sorry, but I'm off topic here. I did the stress analysis on the white optional wheel for the Ranger as one of my projects as a young engineer. Had to tweak the stock thickness and contour a bit to make what the stylists wanted work. Early computer aided design using finite element analysis. Batch processed over a 9600 baud phone line with a mainframe about 90 miles away. The full stress analysis run took several hours of computer time - ran those at night.

yeah but I bet just sips the fuel

New seat and rear wheel/tires. Really made a difference in how it feels and performs. I'm 6'4", so that's why the seat is so far back, but it is mounted on sliders. I've used these seats for other projects and you cannot beat them for the price and comfort. Tires I have also used on other projects and they excel in all conditions over ags except for clay/mud.

I been told that the 953 steering wheel center cap is almost impossible to find?? Bought my 953 from @Buckeyes. I was shocked when he told me how much he paid for just the cap. Since I have an open trailer I secure the cap with a small bungee cord cause I'm not taking any chances. The seat bottom just sets on fender pan between the seat bracket & fenders. I installed a hinge at the front. Again, because of having an open trailer I didnt wanna forget to remove seat cushion before transporting it.

"Ran when parked"