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March 25, 1993, Wendy's founder Dave Thomas, worried that his status as a high-school-dropout-turned-burger-mogul sends the wrong message to kids, earns his GED diploma at age 60. Local high school seniors vote him "most likely to succeed."

Here is my 418-A. It now has 138 hrs and it is such a smooth running machine! It is a bit dusty still holding up.

Chain case done with BLO. It's the only thing i would ever use. I tryed Marvel MO and it just don't cut it. BLO drys a bit glossy and dust on it rinses right off. It. It brings out the best patina. Cons are kind of a pain and messy to apply. Have to try a spray bottle. It also should be reapplied every so often. Absolutely Lane That 60 yo paint just pops. Pics don't do it justice. Before and after.

Dethatched the yard today, first time I’ve even done it on this yard. The 867 was awarded the job and performed flawlessly.

Spraying fences again today. Have to do this once every couple years. You can see the difference in front of the tractor vs behind...

Not always true. There are 2 different block configuration where the oil pan mounts. I was going to convert my pulling engine from a shaker mount oil pan to a frame mount oil pan and could not. Note: Oil pan bolts run from the bottom through the oil pan and thread into the block. This engine the bolts run from the top through the block and thread into the oil pan.

I’m not the original owner. I found a guy a few years ago near Germansville, Pa who did home / estate cleanouts who listed it for sale with a bunch of other stuff including a 520-H. All low hour stuff sitting in a garage for many years. I sold off some stuff but kept the 418-A. I try to put a few hours a year on it to keep it running good. Always use ethanol free gas in all my stuff and it makes a huge difference in performance.

Rear fenders done with Penetrol. This pic is after a year of application. No slime and any dust blows off with a leaf blower. This is a pic after a month after application. Here's what they looked like before anything was done.

If you have a drill press and tap set you can easily drill and tap the oil pan to work with a Wheel Horse direct bolt on. I've done several and they are identical to factory. I'm not a fan of J hooks for this application, but it will work so long as they don't stretch or bend. The blocks that have the tabs holding the oil pan (see below) are the ones I am referring to.

I'm itching to throw a hot potato on the table. "What is the absolute best oil for air cooled engines?" Have at it! LOL!

You will have to remove the shakerplate set up and make a lower mount for the PTO hoop. If the K321 oil pan isn't drilled and tapped for bolts on the PTO side you may have to use J hooks.

pfrederi, while stationed on guam i was assigned care of a particular M818. i would wipe it down with diesel all the time. best looking 5 ton in the bomb dump! the 'oil it down' treatment was great protection from the salt air environment on that island too.

careful with the rags you used to apply the stuff. Left wadded up, they are capable of self igniting.

I like the yellow, slippery, petroleum kind my self, for air or water cooled.

To match up to an OEM pan, the two holes on the PTO side that hold the pan on have to pass all the way through the pan. The factory bolt holes in the pan have a beveled cut in the bottom so drilling them with a 1/8 bit from the top on your drill press is easy and they remain centered. Then you flip the pan over and re-drill with a 5/16 bit using the 1/8 hole as a pilot hole. Flip the pan again and tap from the top with a 3/8 tap so the threads are continuous all the way through. Simple. Just don't do this without using a drill press. Handheld drilling tends to "walk" around and will allow the initial 1/8 drill to drift off center.

G-E-D... Good Enough Degree....

I rely on the sheer weight of cast iron! I’m not sure how much it weighs but it’s heavy. I bought this roller over 40 years ago! I think I paid 20 bucks for it. For years I’ve been wanting to add a rack to it to put cement blocks on for additional weight but never got around to it.

Hmmm, what do you charge for about an acre ? And I KNOW for fact you have spreaders for some fertilizers too! See ya next weekend! LOL (Gotta get all that crap done before the engine show season begins and it's creeping up on us!)

I prefer water because when I am finished with the roller I can drain it and move it into storage.

Yeah, I wouldn't trust it in a plastic roller either. I made my roller from a 4 foot section of 24" steel pipe with 3/8" thick walls. It holds 50 gallon of oil and probably weighs close to a half ton.

Got the 312-8 out today replaced PTO belt and mowed a little while with it. I was told the hour meter was honest and I believe it just showing a little over 500hrs. The seat is awful though, its way to high for me and has just the right amount of cracks in that it will pinch the $4it out of you.

Yesterday I went in to work and asked our parts counter if they can still get an OE steering gear for my 87 Ranger. To their surprise, but not mine, they could. I figured it was a good bet since I know that same box was used on Econolines well into this century. $362 dollars and about two hours of work later it my steering actually steers. I had almost an 1/8 of a turn of free play in the center of the box, and it leaked pretty good. Reman OEM unit and it steers like new, and as far as I can tell, no leaks. Worth every dollar.

Got a little more done today. Carb cleaned, mounted and manilfold torqed down. I cant belive it ran as good as it did with all the trash in carb. Had wrong fuel bowl to carb top gasket so had to use old one, then found a new one of the right style . Also got engine tins painted and guess thats what needs to go back on next. Probably need to check that 9 pin connector Ive read so much about while I got motor pulled out of the way .

I was just meaning that it isn't going to harm anything if you buy the oil in a bulk 5 gallon bucket if you have multiple tractors because it is most likely going to get used before it expires and isn't going to sit for a long enough to let everything settle out.

Good call. Yeah, I probably knew that too..

@WHX?? No need for a cab or doors. I figured I can build my own roof or buy an aftermarket roof. And I plan on adding a front receiver to whatever I purchase. And with the dealer price for winches....no way....if I find that I need one, then I'll add it myself. The cargo bed dimensions, load capacity and towing capacity are important to me. I'm liking the Mule the more and more I look at them. The Pioneer & Ranger are out. It's down to the Defender DPS HD7 or Mule Pro-FX 820 EPS. However I should go look at the Kubota Sidekick too.

The simple solution is use the correct dipstick and if you have the spec number we can figure out the correct dipstick length...

Probably creeps more than those sprays for rust penetrating bolts and nuts loose. Thin it with some carb spray and use for that. I tried gear oil for a steering wheel since a leaking trans will never have a seized hub. It certainly didn't pop right off but it worked well. It didn't happen fast but it stays there instead of evaporating so quickly. The cap on the wheel was missing so I just filled that cavity and walked away. Think is was a week to 10 days before getting back to it. Put a few drops of gear oil on there and have a race to see which one goes farther, not necessarily faster.

Found another use for the S X S. Bringing tools to remote location to work on equipment not near the shop / garage. This was recent when working on the Farmall Super A this past fall. Found myself walking back and forth bringing tools etc then thinking what am I doing ? get the Can Am out. The cross bed toolbox is right behind the rear window under the green compressor hose. That is full as well. Unlimited use's for sure and great MPG.

@WHX?? @JCM Good idea framing the receipt. I laminated the receipt for my Work Horse that I bought brand new so I can hang it when I show the tractor.

I’m sharing this to possibly help anyone without a welder to repair an early short frame trans pad. This is my 655 with a 16hp kolher, I shortened the rod dipper and used a 10hp oil pan. The trans mount was cracked so I tried a hack repair instead of doing it right. It was cheep easy and is holding up well enough to just leave it there permanently. It’s a later model mule drive, axle pin bracket flipped upside down and trimmed. The holes lined up and the width firmly slid between the original rails.

I use Penetrol so the tractor doesn't end up looking like a dust mop

We used to tease Stevebo about his "salad dressing" tractors because he did that with used oil too.

Mine is filled with a high grade turbine oil.

I buy it by the 5 gallon bucket since @Achtohas 20 tractors. I also use diesel in some tractors since it's designed to deal with soot better in some girls that have less than desirable rings.

My shop towels get burned generally.

I bought a Honda 520 Pioneer last summer. I dont need some huge SxS so it works for my needs. I like that its just under 50" wide so I can ride it on most standard atv trails. Added a roof & side mirrors. Mostly use it around town as my city allows it on secondary roads. I can dodge the street legal requirements by simply having the SMV triangle on the rear. My 80yr old mom has one too & she is able to manage it just fine. Shes approximately 100lbs & has no issues with not having power steering.

Mebbe but having friends in low places is more fun...

I like to use one of these to measure the oil I put in. It's called a Ratio Rite. leftover from racing motorcycles. Mine's a little smaller with a cover to keep debris out when it's on the shelf

Bob's not so patented juice bottles. One for dirty oil one for clean. I just marked them with a sharpie. But should come up with something better. I transfer the clean to the old school can on the left to dispence. Picked at a flea market for a buck. My only goal at this stage of life is to do an oil change and not spill a drop. Never gonna happen so now I purposely knock a can over and get the mess over with.

I checked the bearings and re-checked them. Called my neighbor over to check it out too. We could not locate where it came from. I am puzzled by it and have been "scratching my head" over it. I packed the needle bearings with white lithium grease after checking. If I missed something it will show up and hopefully with no damage.

Got heads off and decarboned heads and combustion chambers/pistons. I found it a lot easier to work on by removing 3 of the motor mount bolts and turning motor for access to rear cylinder. Good thing I did because oil drain pipe is loose and I’m going to have to take apart and seal/ tighten it up. Between oil drain and loose oil filter it was pretty oily down there. Top of engine was good and dry . The old valve cover gaskets were stuck pretty good to block. I did start to adjust valves but my feeler gauge was at home so had to quit for for the day. Haven’t even got started on carb and intake manifold but exhaust should be good for another 30yrs after good coat of paint. Quick question, do any of y’all use any kind of sealer on valve cover gasket’s.

Lake Speed Jr. and the other oil expert were telling you to do exactly what Bob @rmaynard did, put it in a glass container and look at it. Looked good to me and if some additives that were never in oil from the '60s have settled out No Harm, No Foul

Ford ranger spacers... drilling rims to .5 inch is pretty much just shaving the edges of the stock hole.