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Hello everyone. I have not falling off the face of the earth just yet and have been working on the old C120 that I got from my Grandfather years ago. I didn't really use it much as the old K301 was leaking and very worn out. So, I just let it sit in the barn for a long time. Well I got to thinking lately and I was like it time to get it going again. So I took it to work and stuck it in my work bay to get me working on it. To start we need to do something with the engine. Well, one of my co workers had a good shape K321 from a Cub Cadet. So, they was the first thing to do. (The first two photos of of it mocked up.) Once it was secured, I had to redo the whole wiring harness from scratch. The old one melt at some point and I figured it wouldn't hurt to wire it up correctly. I even used different color wires!!! ( I know right! HAHA) Next was the old 48in mower deck. Yes this deck is used to cut my neighbor's 3 acre horse pasture. So the deck will not need to cut pretty, just handle large tall growth compared to a normal yard. So I welded a rebar for the bottom front to help keep it from loosing its shape. I also replaced the old worn out original blades with some gator G6 blades. (They were a huge bear to drill out the hold from 5/8 to 3/4. That metal is super tough.) I also had some wheels hanging around that I have been wanting to use for a project, so I made them fit for this one. They look and seem to work so much better than the factor rear wheels. After that came the front bumper. I got this sub compact tractor bumper for free 5 years ago that i wanted to mount on the wheel horse. Well it finally happened and now it looks great! It will protect the front of the tractor from the brush and other whatnot in the field I will be mowing, plus it looks cool. What I did was use some scrap metal, welded the bumper to it and then bolts this to the front of a mule drive. The mule drive still works as it should and the hood even opens enough for me to refuel the the mid gas tank and check the oil. Final thing I wanted to do was add a secondary fuel tank to the tractor as the center tank only last about one hour or so in heavy mowing. The field is a 5 min tractor ride from my house and i do not want to keep stopping and walking back over or riding over. I found a scrap fuel tank and welded up a bracket, bolted it under the seat back feet. Then plumbed up some hoses to a valve that is mounted on the dash. Turn it left and it turns on the center tank and turn it right it turns on the rear tank. I think it works pretty well and I was surprised it all fit behind the center tank under the dash. I fixed the oil leak at the PTO input shaft on the transmission with a new seal. I also notice the right wheel hub has a wobble to it. So I got the hub off, and use some JB weld with a key trick in the key hole. The hole was a little worn and the key wasn't sitting in perfectly. Now its all snug as a bug. What's left is the drive pulley to get here and then I can put on the PTO clutch. Then the side cover plate and right foot rest for a test drive. All should be good. Oh, and the drive pulley will be the hydro one sleaved down to 1in so I can still have faster 2nd gear. Overall I'm very please with how this project came out and I hope it will do as I want. Mow the field in heavy growth conditions. Thank you everyone for the inspiration and I hope you all have a great day!

August 20, 1920, seven men, including legendary all-around athlete and football star Jim Thorpe, meet to organize a professional football league at the Jordan and Hupmobile Auto Showroom in Canton, Ohio. The meeting led to the creation of the American Professional Football Conference (APFC), the forerunner to the hugely successful National Football League.

More photos. (The field photos are what I have completed so far using this deck before the updates along with my C160 hydro. This grass is about 2-3 feet tall and really worked the tractor. Now, yes a real bush hog would be better however, I do not have one I figured I can use what I got and once its cut down, it will be way easier to maintain. This is after him letting it go for about 3 years due to his house burning down and his health going poor for a while.)

Today I got the replacement PTO belt for the 312 so now I can mow again and interestingly enough it’s the same size as the belt for my 37” SD so I just bought another. I also eventually changed a blown 15A fuse on the C-141 so the lights would work again. While I was I there I made sure the lights had plenty of clean metal for good contact. No pics though.

Since we’re sharing muscle cars, here is My father’s 67 Mustang coupe It has a 68 302 with a 4 speed. It’s a transplanted 6 cylinder car that he and I and one of my three brothers helped him swap. It’s eventually going to be a clone of the Mustang he had in high school. he’s about 3/4 of the way now to that, but it still needs work.

This is where I routed mine on the 416 I built last year. I know you don't have that hydraulic line but you could fasten it there another way.

Hmmm... I'm not too sure that adding a yank start to a 7 or 8 HP Kohler with a dead weight S/G as you pull the rope is a great idea. One of the dis-advantages with the pull start style the contortions you do to clutch it as you attempt to start it. (provided you have the rope handle facing to the rear). A lot have the rope handle facing the grille - you best make absolutely sure the Unidrive is not in gear! If what you already have works, charges, doesn't leak or smoke... just run it and criuse the Big Show next year to find what you want....

He said rounds Dan! LOL

Spandex didn't come out until about 1960.

You would need the non-ring gear flywheel, magneto and the appropriate sheet metal. There would be no battery, lighting or lighter (smoking is bad for you anyway). In my opinion we are all getting older and pushing a button is better than yanking a rope. K-181S is shown as the proper OME engine for a B-80. That is an electric start eight horse power Kohler, that is the way to go. Most people wouldn't know the deference and you could always say the B-80 decals are on backorder.

I put this on my tall chute a while back. Mounted this way the 6" stroke is spot on. The control is mounted in a pvc handy box with a magnet. The directional crank works just fine for me.

My 1st brand new vehicle was a 1991 S10 Tahoe. I was 18yrs old. Had 4.3 w/3:42 posi rear end. Did a few performance bolt ons to engine, headers, exhaust, shift kit, etc. It ran pretty good after that. Lowered trucks were the trend at that time.

Starting to look like a engine

Today I got the exhaust cut & removed from just downstream of the catalytic converters. Those will be removed later. The muffler had an interesting surprise. Upon tilting it to remove it from the truck.. I heard rattling rolling noises. There was at least a dozen and a half acorns in the part of the muffler furthest from the open end. I was unaware that was possible given that this is a stock closed type muffler. Maybe it's in the design. Maybe it's got internal holes it wasn't built with. Doesn't matter because I never intended to leave it on. I also got the unused canister vent and air intake pieces removed from under the hood. Also detached the fuel tank side of the unused vent hose. That'll be rerouted and filtered somehow when the bed is built. When the PO assembled the truck, this intake manifold port was hose attached directly to an upper vacuum port of the carburetor. One vacuum source attached by hose to another vacuum source. It was also thoroughly gunkified with the orange sealant you can see. I have no idea what purpose that would serve. In other news. This is Seamus. He VERY rarely makes appearances while human people are in his barn. Today I lucked out and got a pic.

Yeah, I noticed that after taking pictures. I think maybe the chain is a little on the short side that comes from bell crank or might be in dozer blade hole instead of mower hole, I know it was harder than usual to hook/unhook deck. The PO didn't have the notch on front of mower that lines up with hitch locked in, might be the reason for lift in wrong position. IDK how it mowed as good as it did.

Yes, and to a later model Kohler with the 15 amp charging system. We will continue checking one wiring circuit at a time so the final outcome is a working system without any magic smoke being let out.

True Richard ... don't forget about Seniors either...

The 1987 310-8 came with the M10 10hp Magnum engine I've owned 2, if it is truly a 1987 310-8 and has a M14 14hp on it then the engine has been swapped. If it is a 1986 or 1985 they came with the K engine (battery ignition) and at some point it was swapped with a M14 thus the push button start, ether way if it is a 310 the engine has been swapped.

Haha, you got me. I corrected it to K321. LOL. I hope the second fuel tank idea works well. It was very easy to install and get going.

The blue wire is correct, the drawing below shows where it should go. It is the magneto kill wire, be absolutely sure that it is NEVER in contact with 12 volts. As for the push pull switch who knows what a previous owner did. The routing of the black wires as described sounds fine.

Considering the prices paid for a 420-LSE lately I think that RJ should be worth upwards of $ 6,000 considering the fact that it is a 100% original survivor and it is extremely unlikely that another one exists.

I agree

https://youtube.com/shorts/J-v7fGaRWxw?si=ICoKZArahKN1pjmV

Recoil & cup Fly wheel Magneto Might have to drill holes in the fan shroud for the recoil.

Are you planning are transferring the engine from the B-60 to your 856? If not, then I would run it like it is.

106079 and 106108 blades replaced by106635 3-blade set. Center blade may be a different length. Places like Oregon, Stens and Napa will sell individual blades but Toro does not.

Not a bad idea, but be sure to pay attention to the actuator's speed vs. stroke. Many move at 0.5” per second or less. That’s 8 (long) seconds for a 4” stroke to switch a chute from one side to the other. It the load is light, consider a mechanism that multiplies the actuator’s displacement.

If some one gets it for under 3 its a smokin deal. They won't tho I've been offered 3.5 k + for mine. That one will go for just South of 4 I'll guess.

Think I have the same one but my blower is a 2 stage plus the rotation of the chute is also motorized.

no ac on this truck, and I promise no 20 mpg, even with the 700r4

22694 is the serial number. The blank box below it has lost it's 4-digit Julian build date. Recorded serials so far for the model and year range from 20051 to 24472

Thank you for the link to the file! The Wheelhorse was bought with the Kohler m14 in it when I bought it a couple of months ago. Who knows what was done to the electrical system besides taking out the key switch and installing a push button switch? Checking the seat switch, it does have an orange wire going to the pto interlock and a black wire. The black wire is routed to the area behind the key switch and has a female terminal so I will connect it to the key switch ground terminal. That seems to conflict with the diagram that shows a grounding point between the key switch and the seat switch. The key switch itself is grounded so that may take care of grounding the seat switch. There are 2 black wires routed next to the key switch combined in a single female connector. 1 wire is bolted to chassis and the other goes to ground the volt meter. There is no place to connect the single female connector in the area that I can see so I suspect it went to the optional hour meter that I don’t have. The orange wire has a blue wire opposite the orange wire at the pto switch. This is possibly another rabbit hole. There is a push pull switch to the left if the head light switch that has nothing connected to it.

I was thinking about something like this

Had an 88 S-10 like this only dark blue. Bought it at the dealer I worked at when I got married. Picked it up after our honeymoon. 4.3 TBI with the 700R4 and 3:53 gears. Snapped your neck leaving the stop light. Towed our travel trailer to Pocono Raceway with the bed full of firewood. Got over 20MPG with the AC on!

Pure coincidence that both did it. My guess is what Don said, clogged gas cap vent. Loosen the cap and see how long it runs. If it works, try the GT as well. Stranger things have been known to happen.

Sold for $10 today. No, I didn't buy it.

I drive my son nuts with "Dadisms " My favorite is " You can't spoil a rotten egg! " Another one stolen from Yoga Berra when we are deciding where to eat: "No one goes there anymore. It's too crowded."

Is vapor lock a possibility? @squonk mentioned a particular type of fuel filter that's more prone than others.

What, no pick-um-up truck on that list??

Sounds like your looking for a tractor built for two, some thing like "Big Betty Baloo"

Got the other 520H going and mounted 48” deck back on it, everything seems to be good. Mowed about 30/40 mins with it just to see if she was going go or blow. The ol girl ran good and strong never missed a beat, strong hydro. Mowing deck was leaving 2 streaks evey pass and I said self Ive seen this before , PO had 42” blades installed, if he thought it mowed good before he would really think it mows good after I put 48” blades on it . BTW put some wheel spacers on it, will show in a thread in restoration forum.

Will be going on 3 days now, still no pics so beginning to wonder if said rollers were really installed

Big Men in Spandex