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@WHX?? I’m still on the hunt for a PTO-66. I have absolutely zero use for one of those but being a WH collector and considering the rarity of those units it’s something I’d like to add to my collection. There’s a good video on YouTube of a guy running a grain elevator with one of them.

Finally had time to work on RJ the last two days got some pieces painted

My kids do the same when I sit on a project machine. And it took literally years to train my wife to stop calling my Wheel Horses "lawnmowers"... She now says garden tractor. But probably says lawnmower to everyone else when I'm in the garage...

Yep, I had picked up a rusted short frame for scrap price. The pin and sector was permanently rust welded. For a year I soaked it, beat on it, and used BF pipe wrenches but could not get the bolt or pin to move. Finally I used it to mount my front tiller. No need for it to turn for the tiller.

I've seen that too. Neat set up.

I like the 2k primer that gassing problem goes away. my bad and this one I don't know if you ever tried this on single stage paint, I like putting two coats of clear enamel on as two final coat of color. Apply 10 minutes or so after the last color coat. It can be buffed and adds UV protection too. Only available in spray cans tho.

Oops. Ran into a bit of a glitch in painting my 522xi fender. It looked reasonably good until I noticed some areas where the paint wrinkled and/or orange-peeled a bit. I had allowed extra drying/curing time for the primer to make up for the relatively low temperatures in the shop, but I guess it wasn't quite enough time. I'll be more patient this time and wait at least a week before I wet sand the rough spots, plus at least an additional week before applying a second application. I'll set the shop temperature a few degrees warmer as well. On the plus side, the next coat(s) should be even smoother, and there's no big rush, since there are several other parts of the tractor that I can work on in the meantime. If it had been a bigger paint job, I might have used 2K primer and paint. Maybe some other time.

My wife's uncle built a replica of the Travel Air Mystery Ship - a 1930's racing plane. The original is hanging in the Chicago Museum of Science and Industry, her uncle's plane is currently displayed in the Kalamazoo Air Zoo museum. Unfortunately, he died before he could fly it. First time I met him was at the Weyland airport in Michigan. He was in his hanger 'flying' his Mystery Ship. At that time it was the bare steel tubing fuselage frame sitting on a pair of small steel drums, and he was in the 'cockpit' made up of a properly placed lawn chair, with a piece of broomstick as the control column. He was making the engine sounds by blowing a prolonged 'rasberry'.

I found that the mold seams or colored lines run true when spun so I could use those for measuring. May not happen in all cases, but it worked for me with Kenda tires. I have turn tables for easy movement and a spreader bar to take out any slack in the spindles. I do my own wheel alignments on cars if they will accept my ancient Alemite equipment.

Here ya go.

8 inch carriage bolts were perfect for my 55 lb Sears weights. Now to find round Wheel Horse decals.

Mounted up these cast weights I bought last year. Seemed heavier than all my usual 50 pounders, turns out they’re 70 pounds apiece! Came with hardware that’ll need an inch or so cut off.

416 Anniversary complete except for final setup of carb and hydro, and hood which will be completed next summer. Wife took this picture. She laughed at me taking my shoes off to sit on the tractor.

Tie rod lock nuts installed on both ends and tie rod jamb juts firmly tightened. Front end complete.

Those Gravely mufflers aren't what they used to be. They used to be very heavy and quiet. Now they are just tin cans.

Getting ready to do front end alignment. I have two straight edges that are 4' long and some pieces of Teflon. Disregard the yard sticks as they were not used. Tires all set at 12 PSI and front wheels sitting on Teflon for east of movement. Straight edges sat on jack stands half way up front wheels. Steering wheel was set straight. Tape measures laid on top of straight edges with the hook end clamped on holding them tight to the edge just to hold them in place so they don't move. We have 1/4"" toe in but the manual calls for 1/8". Also the straight edge is even with the outside of the Left rear tire and is out slightly from the Right rear tire. I therefor shortened the Right side tie rod by one turn and bolted it back on tight. Alignment complete straight edge is in line with outer edge of rear tire on both sides. Alignment complete and we now have 1/8" toe in. With 1/8" toe in and straight edge aligned evenly to both rear tires means the steering wheel should sit straight while driving and the steering should have at least a little return to center.

It drives off the back wheels. Had one just like came on a 1077 I still have. Gave it to @CasualObserver many moons ago. I'm not gonna tell you this because I wanna see you save it from scrap but it's useless without the bag & frame. Given that might be a dickering point. . A frame could be made out of EMT conduit easy if you had one to copy. A custom bag made at a canvas or marine top place. Without a questionable doubt a extremely rare attachment to find. It hangs off the fender pan by a single bolt ... blue circle and drives off a roller that rides on the back tires. Nothing but the brush touches the ground. Lift the bag up to dump. Requires drilling a hole in 60 year old sheet metal to mount which is against my religion. Yep gave the attachment away but still have the hole.

I wrassaled the 48" deck i picked up last weekend out of my truck, strapped on the 2 wheel hand cart and wheeled it through the trails that I cut in the snow with the tiny Toro two stroke snow blower to the tractor shed. That will let Morgan, the 14-8; and Clyde, the C-195 make friends with it while it is waiting for a refresh sometime this spring.

Agreed. For a threaded-hole situation like that, I would usually (as you mentioned) countersink the hole a bit to provide clearance for the little radius (fillet) between the underside of the bolt head and the bolt shank. Of course a washer would also do the trick.

Needed 2” full thread, not available at stores but McMaster Carr had em and shipped me 10. Star washers?? Not sure the were needed but I installed em anyway. They were cheap, unlike the bolts. And the spacers, they were sitting on a guys table for sale at a tractor show and my son grabbed em. No brand name on them that I could find.

Sorry about that, it is hard to identify the players without a program.

The thick flats can be hard to find too. Really no need for locks other than a spacer. Once the nut is on they ain't going nowhere. If one can find the thicks in 3/8 they work great for head bolts.

Because they are for automotive ... Jeeps Yep ... good idea on the slight counter sink.

Pretty close. They were $16 but with tax and shipping $25 and a few pennies. I'm sure they are out there but I've never come across spacers with 7/16" studs. I'm thinking the lock washers are more for getting around that little taper on the bolt. I've countersank them in the past.

s I was looking at Jims washers Lynn.

On mine Ed? They might have been on that tractor. Same ones I got Bob ... flea bay for less than 25 shipped. The studs are 1/2" tho. Shoulda got another pair right away can't find them now. Really a nice lookin setup there Bob

Unless they have both internal and external teeth it appears they aren't locking anything.

Once I out the chains on the 23-10.50's on my Reborn B-80 I felt there should be a little more clearance. I moved the hubs out a bit to get by but I don't like it like that. Found these on Ebay for pretty cheap and tried them out on the hubs I just saved. I was just able to get a socket the stock lug bolts to mount them.

Take it easy on Jim, you remember where he's from don't you ?

Looks like a lock washer to me.

Left that wardrobe for Pullstart... Mine just fit with the square heads. Mighta had to grind a smidge off the stud head. All depends on the hardware store to find them. I lucked out and found one that had them in all lengths but yes not full threads past 1 1/2. What's your theory with the star washers? I used thick flat washers to get them to seat flush. I like those spacers Mike ... source? Yes as Boy said looks like you might have a brake shaft seal issue there??

I put studs on all of my tractors. Best mod ever. I got a box of 25 off of ebay a while back. 7/16x20 Tap bolts. I need to order some more for my last project.

Looks like he needs to change out his brake drum seal.

My sons bought small spacers for his tractor, last night I installed one side. Had to remove the hub set screw and replace with a 1/4” shorter one so that the two bolts heads wouldn’t hit. The 7/16 x 20 x 2” bolts can be a pain to find.

It was 2 degrees here Tuesday night. Forecast to be 70 next week. NC weather. Gotta love it!

Touche' sir! We simply don't have the infrastructure for this because it happens so infrequently. One big snow every decade or two doesn't justify paying for fleets of road clearing equipment. Heck, I don't even have a snowblower... That being said, most of our main roads were clear 12 hours after the snow stopped, but secondary roads are still a mess even now. I don't mind driving in it but some people don't understand that you can't drive 65mph on packed and refrozen snow with a 2wd pickup truck with 50,000 miles of wear on street tires. In short, the hillbillies come out like bugs to a searchlight. I'm not complaining. The snow is beautiful, and it is melting steadily. But last night it was 2 degrees and whatever melting had occurred was frozen again into solid ice. Not even the dogs want to go out when it's that cold and slippery!

Spoken like a true Southerner.

We are supposed to be used to it and just deal with it and make sure the horses are up for it. Last couple of years Ritchie we had very little snow. So here I sit with all these snow horses and gas going stale in them. This year some excellent seat time on them. Snow we don't mine as much as the cold. Minus numbers for weeks on end like we just had. I'll pick ya up on my way to FL!

November 4 is when our snow started and the road salting started. All of my summer cars get put away at that point so they don't get salt on them. I go from 5 cars and 10 wheel horses down to one car and one wheel horse from that point until the roads get cleaned up and the temperatures start staying above freezing likely around mid to late April. It would be nice to be able to use my toys more than half of the year.

Yeah for where I live, a few days is a stretch. I'm already done with this stuff. I'll take brown winter grass any day. It's pretty when it snows, but a day or two is enough!

It does get old, sometimes. In my area, we've also been lulled by many recent winters without extended below freezing stretches or lingering snow. We’ve had snow cover here for almost a month now.

Hoya lifts are awesome. I got one from a lady in the neighborhood that was for her son but they never used it. Works great. Sad part is they have thrown out about a dozen of them here at the hospital. Mostly electric, some manual lift. Breaks my heart 😢