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I added an additional 20 lb barbell weight plate to my existing Bolens 75 pounders, as there was enough room for it in the C81 wheel... the problem is they now weigh 95 pounds each and are a bear to install. Solution - adapt the floor jack to lift & center the weights..... works well.

Added another round hood to my herd. I've always liked the looks of the round hoods, but was not a big fan of the square aluminum gas tanks. For this reason I had been looking for a 704 to add to my herd. @WHX?? alerted me to one that for sale on Face Book close by and was willing to do the FB work to get me hooked up. Thanks Jim !! Pics of the newest addition. PTO does not look correct to me. The gas tank that is in it is not right, but I have the correct one. Anyone see any thing else out of place please let me know. I also got this deck with it. It looks in pretty good shape but is not on the implement list for the 704. Anyone know off hand what it should be mated to? One more of my bucket lister's obtained. Only ? more to go.

Yesterday, I reinstalled the rear fender assembly on the GT18 (more on that later), and I did another small job today: I cleaned and reinstalled the GT18's rubber foot rest mats. I had some plastic 'variable-depth push pins' that I thought would be a good match to the originals, but it turned out they weren't quite long enough to get a good grip, and I didn't want to pay the crazy price for OEM plastic push pins, so I used 7/8" OD stainless washers and 10-32 stainless truss-head screws, with stainless lock nuts. They were cheaper than the OEM plastic push pins. The washers fit perfectly down into the 7/8" diameter recesses in the rubber mats, and the truss-head screws are low-profile, so when they're all tightened down, the tops of the screws are at roughly the same level as the surface of the mat. They might not match the original black plastic push-pins, but I kind of like their heavy-duty appearance, and they're certainly stronger than the plastic pins.

Yup - just like my old Engineering days... Access the problem.. Define the weights and forces required.. Sketch up at least two possible solutions.. Pick the "better" choice & streamline it to be as simple as possible.. Utilize suitable existing resources & materials... Source & purchase what is needed.. (Two muffler clamps & flat stock) Fabricate & evaluate. Note any required changes. I would call this a "2 beer job"!

I did get a usable set of 6-12 Silver Town snow tire treads on rims with it.

World Pianist Day comes around each November 8. It’s dedicated primarily to pianists and their achievements. The world has seen and will see many unsurpassed musicians whose music has traversed through the ages. It’s a day to treasure the emotions pianists evoke with their performance. Indeed, it makes our hearts move with ultimate joy. As many piano events as possible are held to embrace this joy. Because most forms of Western music can use the piano, pianists have a wide choice of styles to choose from, including jazz and blues. It’s also a chance for those who have never been involved to give it a try.

OMG I am using that one. Of course I mean to myself, as I have a wife and 3 daughters... If I suddenly stop posting here you'll know I slipped up and accidentally said it out loud. I use your same steps, with one addition here: trash previous attempt, recover what you can and return to previous step. Repeat as necessary.

I would call this a "2 beer job"! Had a girlfriend that would infuriate. Did not Fempute. Buddy yesterday said it was going to be 375 buck for disc brakes on his Tacoma. I said buy the parts I will do. About a beer a side. He also did not understand. I am saying its easy man. easy

702

Wrong PTO and deck, Wrong rear tires and wheels, Should be 6-12's Loved my 704 until @clueless pried it away. I'll never forget that day. It felt like I sold one of my beloved pets!

Straight from the back burner, I have been tinkering with this 520H. I bought an orbital steering valve from 19richie66 and decides to modify the 520 to power steering. I seen a thread a while ago were someone added steering to a 518. Figured that would be a nice side project if I came across a reasonably priced steering valve. I wanted to keep it looking the same and tucked in the column. It was a little tricky with a mix of face seal and jic piping. Picked up some face seal fitting from MMC and silver soldered to the steel pipe. For now it is on ice, next will be the front axle mod to accept the steering cylinder. Absolutely don't need a 520H with power steering but I like to build things and keeps me out of the Mrs. cross-hairs. Used the c120 and old deck belt to test run. front view

On ebay The Man's One Stop Shop and Lil Red Barn Power Equipment Supply are very good to deal with. I've always been happy with my purchase.

Found a praying mantis on the shop floor today. I don't have much of a project going other than trying to solder some LED lights to make them blink or represent a campfire for the model train layout. I wrote "trying" because, it's getting harder to see where to solder and then my hands don't seem to be as steady as I need to solder these tiny connections. Thus I decided to take a break and that's when I found this praying mantis. It was probably 3~3 1/2" long. This bug entertained me off and on all afternoon. It didn't seem to have any place to go and spent most of the day on the spare folding chair in the shop. The most it moved was when I put it on the back of my hand and it would immediately crawl up the sleeve of my flannel shirt to which, up near my shoulder, I would allow it to crawl up onto the back of my other hand where it would start it's journey again. I killed a fly and a fed it to the mantis and a dying cricket as well. As I watched, it would use it front legs to hold the back legs and bring them to his face for grooming. It's days are numbered because we are expecting low twenties early next week. I zoomed in close and made a video of this creature so that the grandkids enjoyed at supper this evening. They were fascinated and so was I.

This is the handle of my garden rake made of laminated wood scraps. Least they could have done was use water proof glue.

As a Manufacturing Engineer, I very seldom got those panic phone calls. On the other hand, the Process Engineers and the Maintainence guys all had that imaginary "Property of Stoneridge" tattoo on their backsides....

There really is no water “proof” glue. There is water resistant glue which is what they used. The best glue there is for exterior or marine applications is Resorcinol which is urea formaldehyde. I have used in submerged applications and still holding. It is however expensive and difficult to apply having to be precisely mixed. One has to be a bit of a laboratory chemist to have full success with it. It would not be practical or economical to use it on a rake handle . The cost of the glue would exceed the cost of the rake. On handles like that one has to avoid letting handle in the rain absorbing moisture through end grain. Sometimes I actually make a cap out of copper flashing for the end of a tool handle that is exposed to water frequently. Urea formaldehyde. Two part glue. This is left over from a job . Its shelf life is basically over so it has to be discarded. Close to 80 dollars worth of glue to be discarded.

Niiiiice find!

It is a well known fact that no artist wanted to be on the concert bill after Jerry Lee Lewis. His high energy stage show was not to be beaten. Not even Elvis wanted to follow him. "Nobody follows the Killer" was an anecdote among performers of the time.

Excellent idea !!!

i prefer calling as well -- but i liked the web site just for the search to learn what he did or did not have in stock -- and i frequently referred other wh folks to them who didnt know they existed? Frankly, tho i had repeat issues with my ordering acct which was another reason i did phone orders, however the move to Ebay might relieve Lincoln of some work load -- but getting his full inventory listed on Ebay will likely be massive task !!

Testing vid

Batk4kids ( The one man’s shop ) has rebuild kits -I’ve never personally dealt with them but know others who have - never a complaint - he’s been selling the rebuild kits for many years on the bay has a 99.6% positive rating .

Picked up a model that I've been wanting for a while. Better pics tomorrow in the day light.

I have They are WHELEN lights that are on for example the public works trucks across the country. There is different colors and plenty of different strobe patterns hat you can just change with a button. IMG_0539.mov

Finished fitting new to me front blade on the C-125. With back blade it's my secondary and touch up snow rig.

Too much wind today to do leave patrol again so decided to clean up the B80 and to finally put on the anti skid I had laying around . She cleans up pretty nice I think

If you want the appearance of stainless, but don’t want galling issues, just use the zinc plated nuts with s/s bolts? Personally, I’ve had no problems using s/s bolts and s/s nuts together. I just remember to apply a drop of oil, grease, whatever before I assemble

Drove my FILs 416-8 around yesterday. It is well used, but what a Cadillac that thing is! Something about that K341 is awesome! Thumper is definitely a good name for them!

That's actually the reason we use nearly zero stainless and nearly all Grade 8. Zinc coating isn't as good as a true stainless bolt but they'll do for our usage.

One very important thing to remember when using stainless bolts and stainless nuts together is to always apply a drop of oil on the threads before assembly. If you don’t, there is a very real chance of ‘Galling’, you can literally screw a nut onto a bolt, finger tight, and then find that it’s virtually impossible to unscrew, even with spanner’s. The threads ‘pick’ up. I have come across this numerous times on winter maintenance equipment, snow blowers, salt spreaders, etc. A drop of oil, WD40, or Loctite if using plain nuts instead of self locking, in fact anything liquid, or semi liquid which, ‘Contaminates’ the threads seems to work. As a last resort, ‘Spitting’ on the threads also works! Saliva, apparently, is quite a good lubricant?

Sad, but true. I have tested it on some very specific WH items and it was complete bs... AI "learns" from crap and fact... create a bot that generates false info, repeat, and it becomes fact to AI... See you next December 37th at the WHCC in Peoria...

I start out at 2 turns out and they always start from there. You can then fine tune.

Have you heard of the "Million Dollar Quartet"? Jerry Lee Lewis, Johnny Cash and Elvis Presley were at Sun Studios when Carl Perkins was wrapping up a recording session. The four of them began to jam and cut up and the impromptu session was recorded. The sound quality is a bit iffy because none of them were at a microphone and they didn't know it was being recorded. It was probably around Christmas time based on some of the songs they sang on the longer CD version I have. Give it a listen.

I think he will continue to take phone calls. Anything he can sell directly will save him the fees.

79263 is for a tractor with a vertical engine crankshaft. 79360 single-stage and 79361 two-stage will fit the 314-8.

Fuses blow because of a short. Your solenoid clicking indicates it's not the switch. The fact that you replaced the solenoid already tells me the solenoid is a bad new one or the solenoid isn't pulling in all the way. With the fuse blowing I'm leaning towards a bad coil in the solenoid. " JUST BECAUSE IT'S NEW DOESN'T MEAN IT'S GOOD!" You need some trouble shooting skills and a volt meter. How many volts are you getting on the small terminal of the solenoid when the key is in start? What is the voltage at the battery side of the large terminal of the solenoid compared to the other large terminal with the key in start? How well is that solenoid grounded?

Acanthocephala declivis

1 it is the factory engine 2 it is battery ignition with a starter coil,motor and soinoid 3 it is not a lone horse I have a b-80 that I recently engine swapped so I have some parts for that engine so if they are the same can I use them 4 I have battery cables that I can use 5 I am away and will not be able to get a photo until Monday but I will send some when I get home 6 there is a clutch safety switch but I don,t think it is connect but the tractors wiring is heavily modified as you will se in the photos 7 by re building it I meant redoing the wiring properly

@kpinnc Same here, and the anti rust quality of them, especially up here, is a plus. Nice work @Blue Chips.

Kohler rebuild kits are available from vendors on eBay and Amazon. Just research the sellers by checking reviews.

I use copper cable and lugs. Absolutely smashh all yer aggressions into the lug and it stays nicely. Side benefit is you feel better.

I simply posted the information contained in his Kohler manual. Yes, we can experiment with all kinds of oils but I think it is best to show the manufacturers recommendation and leave the decision to the owner of the engine. I do use 30 in colder temperatures than shown in the charts but my winter tractors are kept at room temperature before use. That still isn't correct since the crankcase likely won't stay up to operating temperature over time in extreme cold. But that is just me and I won't tell others to follow my habits.

Weatherman says there may be snow this weekend. Not sure I believe hime, but figured since it was close to 60 degrees today, it was a good day to clean the snow pusher!

Don Just saying I believe in diesel fuel or kerosene flush. I had a 606 one time of of EBay bid I could not move this. Tranny was frozen. Many flushes it freed up. Changed all sealers and sold it in the spring.

Wow. Did some quick inter web shopping and got a bit of an education update. SAE-only is becoming a rare item. People skilled enough to buy (and use) taps & dies are apparently buying sets with a larger range of sizes in both SAE and metric. Makes sense, really, as I suspect I’ll want metrics before long! Also, the “low end” stuff has become cheaper (and poorer in quality) than I remembered while the “medium” has become more costly at the same quality. Makers responding to market trends. I’ll do some more digging and PM you.

Once, about half a life-time ago, when I was much dumber I ordered a PCM for a truck, at the direction of Ford's technical hotline, and then found a broken wire causing the issue. Service manager refused to put the PCM on, because if Ford called the old one and it was good his department would get charged back for it. Parts manager was pissed because he was stuck with a $500 part he didn't want. Two weeks later we actually needed that same unit for another truck, and we were the only Ford location, dealership, warehouse, or distribution center, in the entire country that had one.

Mister fancy lights over here

Flush trans / new oil New shift cover Change engine oil Grease all zerks Spray lube/grease all moving parts Drain fuel system New fuel line / filter Check all electric connections Dialectic grease connections Replace needed seals/bearings