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Had today off so hit a tractor museum in Perth Australia, about an hour north of where I’m at. Almost all farm tractors but they did have one that was “WH size” called Howard. Had my Lawn/Garden tractor mag with me, perfect for a picture! And yes, I wore one of my WHCC shirts

September 12, 1972 , After nearly 40 years of riding across millions of American TV and movie screens, the cowboy actor William Boyd, best known for his role as Hopalong Cassidy, dies at the age of 77. Boyd’s greatest achievement was to be the first cowboy actor to make the transition from movies to television.

This picture taken at "interveiw"

that’s a sweet paint job, on Grandpa’s old tractor!

His USA cousin.

Added a receiver hitch to the rear of my RJ-59 to attach a garbage can hauler. I have a very steep driveway and at 66 it is difficult to get the heavy trash cans to the curb. Worked better than expected and I still get joy out of driving my grandfather's tractor he purchased new. BTW this is how I learned to drive!

This is why I now interview guys that wanna buy my horses. To make sure they get taken care of. Gives meaning to going to a good home.

I've done one too. EXCELLENT upgrade. The side angle control is far superior to OE.

Made another set of tie rods and mounted them on th ol 1257 (Vince). With the thrust bearings under the spindles, new tie rods and the larger steering wheel its like having power steering .

Is this sort of what you had in mind?

How do I get higher RPMs governor Wheel Horse 414–8 Magnum Kohler 14 The question you are asking runs counter to the purpose of the governor. The attached manual has a step by step adjustment process. Try moving the rod that is presently in the sixth hole to the third hole and see if it becomes more responsive. To adjust the mechanical governor on a Kohler engine follow these steps. Turn off the engine: Ensure the engine is completely off and cool before working on the linkage. Set throttle to wide open: Move your equipment's speed control lever to the fast or high-speed position so the carburetor throttle butterfly is pushed completely open. the governor arm nut: Find the bolt or nut that clamps the governor arm to the metal cross shaft coming out of the engine block. Loosen it just enough so the arm can rotate freely on the shaft. Rotate the governor shaft: Hold the carburetor throttle wide open, then rotate the governor cross shaft as far as it will go in the direction that pulls the throttle open until it bottoms out and stops. Tighten the clamp nut: While holding the carburetor wide open and the governor shaft fully rotated to its stop position, securely tighten the clamping nut or bolt on the governor arm. Torque it down properly (typically around 60 inch-pounds if using a torque wrench) With this understanding, here’s how to check the governor. Manually move the governor arm/throttle lever back and forth between the stops. Observe the amount of movement and the tension on the governor spring. Detach the spring from the governor arm. Position the governor arm/throttle in the middle and start the engine. Gradually adjust the governor arm to slow down and speed up the engine. As the engine speed rises, you should notice an increase in tension on the governor arm, and as the engine speed drops, the tension should decrease. If there is no tension at all, the governor is likely faulty, and the engine will need to be disassembled for inspection. The primary purpose of the governor on a Kohler air-cooled engine is to maintain a constant engine speed (RPM) under varying workloads. It is not to speed the engine up; the governor's role is to attempt to slow the engine down. The faster the engine runs, the more pressure is exerted on the governor shaft (in the engine) and arm. The point at which the force from the governor (trying to slow the engine) matches the force from the governor spring (trying to speed the engine up) and maintains a steady engine speed is referred to as the governed speed. When you use equipment like a lawnmower, tractor, or generator, the engine encounters different levels of resistance (such as hitting tall grass or drawing an electrical load). The governor automatically adjusts the throttle to keep the engine running at its optimal speed, preventing it from stalling or over-speeding. When the governor detects Load Changes its RPM naturally starts to drop. The governor senses this drop in speed and automatically opens the throttle valve to let in more fuel and air, restoring the engine to its target speed. Conversely, if the load is suddenly removed, the engine speed will rapidly increase. The governor responds by closing the throttle to prevent catastrophic internal engine damage from over-revving. Kohler’s mechanical (Centrifugal) Governor: Uses internal flyweights attached to a gear inside the engine. As the engine spins, centrifugal force moves the weights, which act on a shaft and linkage connected to the carburetor throttle. When the engine is off, the governor spring keeps the throttle in the wide-open position. Upon starting the engine, the governor, which consists of a centrifugal weight inside the engine, begins to spin. Centrifugal force pushes a weight outward, applying pressure on the governor shaft and causing it to turn. The governor arm, connected to the governor shaft outside the engine, also moves. With this understanding, here’s how to check the governor. Manually move the governor arm/throttle lever back and forth between the stops. Observe the amount of movement and the tension on the governor spring. Detach the spring from the governor arm. Position the governor arm/throttle in the middle and start the engine. Gradually adjust the governor arm to slow down and speed up the engine. As the engine speed rises, you should notice an increase in tension on the governor arm, and as the engine speed drops, the tension should decrease. If there is no tension at all, the governor is likely faulty, and the engine will need to be disassembled for inspection.

@ri702bill noticing a missed ENHANCEMENT DETAIL ? in your great plow frame pictures , see it ? add a medium pull extension spring from , frame HITCH PIN CLIP TO pto swing arm LOCKING PIN , CORNER HOLE ? that lubricated smooth tension ELIMINATES LINKAGE BUZZING , regularly go over any change , to ENHANCE THAT , this idea zone is what drives me to other opportunities , like spring pull to close / stop , throttle / choke cable linkage ? verified total lubrication makes it smooth with a light pull assist to any stage . dare to experiment , pete

It looks like there is a little bent out tab at the bottom of the throttle pivot that would hit against the screw to prevent over revving the engine

Also, be sure the throttle cable clamp is keeping the cable jacket secured.

Make sure the governor arm is not loose on the shaft you should adjust the governor per the manual.

Definitely agreed.

there fixed it

It should treat you fine. I have a neighbor who is a cub guy. Has a 1050 and a 1650. Both need major work. I've tried to get him to take one of my Wheel Horse's, but the Cubs are easier for him to get on and off of.

Killing time to go to the last tractor show so finished up a Onan I got from @Blasterdad at Pullstart's plow day. Should have left the heat shield off 'till after retorque heads run. I have high hopes for this being a decent shelf motor for the 520s. Hope you like the color changes. Just something different.

Have used heim joints for decades. Have some of various sizes in a drawer. Running low on them so I use them judiciously. Also have various types and sizes of the rod ends. Quick disconnect and regular. Have used the quick disconnect many times and not had a problem. They do make it easy to reset toe in, especially if one end of tie rod is not adjustable. Plus they were free. Former place of employment scrapped them as overstock since no one was buying replacements. The mechanically minded employees snatched them right up. If they lasted forever on a lift truck , they will do well on a garden tractor.

Very busy day here this Labor Day. Trina's family was here for a mid day gathering and meal. The grandson HAD to have some tractor time. Won't be long before he's driving on his own. He gave the Sparky tractor a little test today. After all that was done Trina kept going as usual. More firewood processing with The Ugly Bruce tractor hauling the splitter and Millie pulling the loads of split wood.

Installed thrust bearings on the spindles today. Didn’t take long to do, made a big difference. Used two narrow hose clamps to use as a guide. Then started cutting with a part off blade, and finished the final depth of material removal with a flap disc wheel. Reassembled with a goodly amount of Red and Tacky grease. In disassembly I discovered the left side tie rod end was froze up. Replaced both sides with new spring loaded ones. Made setting the toe in easy.

Going through the 520xi I just purchased as leaf vacuuming season will be here shortly. Besides new air filter, greasing, changing tranny and engine oil and filters, the mower didn’t have a battery hold down bracket so I made one of those. One of the lift rods was broken and the PO had it tied up with rope so I fabricated one of those also, as the $80 price I saw for a OEM one was totally ridiculous. Went with synthetic transmission fluid and with the little I drove it, it seemed to drive better. Forgot I bought new plugs so I still need to replace them. Have bearings for poor man’s power steering but that will be a separate project. The battery on my AC916H that I sold that I have been nursing along for a few years of course died the day the buyer came to get it so it got the 520xi battery and the 520xi got a new one.

Still slowly getting stuff done on 416H. New voltage regulator. Was barely charging @12v & it dropped when my upgraded led lights were turned on. Now its charging properly. I can add some aux lights confidently now.

The tie down is what makes it...!!! twice, cut once... Lucky 13!!!

Saw this at a show. Owner called it a battery quick disconnect

Finished up on the C160 front end today replaced tie rods with some l had made a while back. Also added thrust bearings on the spindles. Good thing I had the homegrown tie rods ready, one of the old ones fell apart when I took it off . Steers way easier than before even with the wider wheels and 5 rib V61 tires.

Show hasn't happened yet, how can i post pics? lol

Added some liquid ballast and installed some new front wheel bearings on “Vince” the 1257. Installed some thrust bearings on front spindles also. Did improve ease of steering.

Me and the neighbor loaded a few of them up and took them to Portland, IN antique engine and tractor show. Spent the better part of the day riding around the swap meet area and picking up a few things along the way. Only managed to cover about half of the swap meet area and one pass through the antique engine area. Huge event and it doesn't even officially open until Wednesday.

Too much on the to-do list today to get these on a machine but did manage to drill the rims for the weights. ICYMI, these 4 x 8 rims came on an off-brand cart with bushings and dry rotted wheel barrow tires. I almost threw them on the I don't care pile but they're actually decent quality so I knocked the bushings out and put 4 ply 4 x 8 tri-ribs on them. I talked my brother out of the weights and cleaned them up. Too wide on standard rims to get through the gates on my property so I think this will work. Soon to be in service...

@Natejc_98 came by and picked up his 1973 8 HP 4 speed. He and Trina and I have been through the systems on it. Changed a bunch of stuff. Cleaned some stuff. Replaced some stuff. Today we tried to start it and immediately figured out it was getting no fuel. The original fuel pump was gunkified. Swapped for another pump but that was reeeaaally weak. OK... back to the original and clean it up. I modified a 10 to 16 HP pump rebuild kit by using a leather hole punch to change the position of the holes in the diaphragm. Reused the original internal spring. The 8 HP engine fired up and went well. We then noticed a scraping noise when the tractor was in gear. Popped the belt off and verified it against a known correct Wheelhorse 7473 belt. It was a little bit too long. Likely I has mistakenly installed a 7478 from an Automatic tractor which is an inch or whatever longer. Left the 7473 on. Nate got the chance to drive his "new" toy around here a bit and we loaded it up on his truck. Off to it's new home!

Needed to get the york rake hooked up to work on the stump removal project. It is the only implement I have not permanently attached to a tractor. Had to move a lot to get it out and hooked up to the GT-14... Part of me says I need another 3pt tractor

Did some mid-season maint, grease, etc on 654 & mower deck. Know theres plenty haters on Teckys but mine is reliable & burns no oil. Even degreased tractor & washed it too. Its not pretty but I can count on it winter or summer.

Sold the Workhorse today! Guy I purchased it from bought it back. Looks like everything gonna work out, especially for me. I got the 416 now to replace it.

Had to move the last of my house stuff into the garage last night, so the 3 machines that have resided there since resto had to spend the night out under the temp awning. For the next few months they will be spead between the barn and utility building. They didn't seem to mind so far...

Got the other 520H going and mounted 48” deck back on it, everything seems to be good. Mowed about 30/40 mins with it just to see if she was going go or blow. The ol girl ran good and strong never missed a beat, strong hydro. Mowing deck was leaving 2 streaks evey pass and I said self Ive seen this before , PO had 42” blades installed, if he thought it mowed good before he would really think it mows good after I put 48” blades on it . BTW put some wheel spacers on it, will show in a thread in restoration forum.

Ok Ed, you asked for it! 🤣 IMG_4058.mov

Got the Bervac swapped onto 416. Also swapped rear hitch, larger wheels/tires from Workhorse. Still have a few more preventive maint items to get done. Got lift assist springs installed/adjusted & 150lbs of weight on hitch. Now I gotta figure out what to do with the Workhorse. Be nice to have it for parts but dont really want it sitting around...... 20260814_133023.mp4

What the heck, no hydros? I will see your five gear jammers and raise you a couple of 1100 Eatons. One of these days I need to line them up nice and pretty.

Me too. Cancel your work.

More shed organizing..what kind of idiot has four spare 8 speeds “in-stock” (plus a 4 speed)

Trying to organize my spare tires/wheels, moved some into the new shed this evening. Left all my crummy tires and wheels in my old tarp shed.

The C41 has two rubber stops and springs under the seat/spring mounting plate. one spring was broken and one rubber stop was missing. After scrounging through the “extra parts” I found two heavier springs and two rubber stops. A few minutes later they were installed.

The 67 towed the 83 from the back shed up to the garage for a drive belt swap. Thought I was saving a few $$ using the belt I just removed from a junk C-81..but it ended up being a little shorter and she just doesn’t declutch like it should. Grinds the gears a bit. Crud!! I guess I’ll be using a brand new belt I picked up at this years WH Show. The idler pulley was shot on the 83 (GT-1600) so the C-81 did donate a nice smooth one so there’s that

Not really a "done to" but got my RS 20th anniversary banner hung up after moving a bunch of other stuff around.

LOL! This C-81 is a parts rig and I decided to strip it down today..trans will sit on a shelf as a spare but I wanted fresh fluid in it before it gets stored away.

Doing an 8 speed gear oil change..easier to just remove the trans right