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Finished transaxle drain and refill on the 12hp-8 No Name today. New shifter boot, magnetic drain plug and swapped the 8.50’s for some 10.50’s on back. Oh yeah installed bolts/studs on back wheels. Made mounting the loaded Carlisle alot easier.

I still like a 16 Oz hammer for framing. Going in tomorrow for a rebuild on my right hand eyeball tomorrow. Opted for the de-luxe replacement lens with astigmatism correction. If it turns out as well as the left eye rebuild, it will make my accuracy much better when using the 16 Oz framing hammer.

I vote out house .

I run 30W Rotella all year round. Cold weather or not.

I just wanna say you guys made a believer outta me! Look at the head bolts, they have Liquid wrench the entire length. That spray, hammer every time you walk by a wait a few days really works! Head bolts all seemed to be the same tightness. 2 whacks with the heel of my hand and they came loose. Put a pick under the head gasket & it popped right off. Exhaust valve has a lot of debris around it. Cylinder walls are smooth, no nicks or gouges. The mule pulley guard nut came off with the same technic. Pulleys spin freely. I don't understand why the belt wouldn't come thru them. Haven't tried the tension adjuster yet. Found the regulator mounting bolts are loose.

Keep up the good revival/maintenance on that old horse

Leatherman (Glenn Hughes) was a fraternity brother and college housemate of mine before he got the gig with the People.

January 6, 1979, Village People's "Y.M.C.A." becomes their only UK #1 single; at its peak, it sells over 150,000 copies per day.

Important that they get built properly! Personally, I’ve gone down to a 12oz hammer but with a longer handle--seems easier on my arm and just as much power.

yes, I do that treatment yearly. I have a vent down stream of the tank and pour the crystals, about a pound, in there and put a hose into the vent and let it run for a minute or two No issues for the last ten years.

I also run straight 30 weight year round, tractors are in a cold barn, they all start right up.

30W Mobil 1 year round for mine. My wood hauling snow plowing tractor is stored in the heated shop during the winter.

I'm with Squonk on this one I have a 1979 c-101 (bought new) kept in unheated shed, used for only snow removal now and have used Rotella 30 for many years . No engine problems, a little oil use, not much, but it is almost a 50 year oil engine! Oil changed yearly since it doesn't mow grass anymore but has moved tons of snow in its life.

Yes, that would be fine.

So kinda funny story. I've been working/playing with the C160-8 and 12hp-6 tractors last couple a days. Keep in mind the 160 has separate clutch and brake pedals and the 12hp has clutch and brake on one pedal. I was going down steep grade on the 12hp and clutch spring broke. So, I essentially had a runaway horse going straight for the pond . I went a pretty good ways down the hill before I realized the brake was on the left foot instead of the right. Had to check my bloomers when I got stopped. Never had a clutch spring break before and they will not hold back if there is no spring on there, you can hold pedal back with the heel of your foot but still exciting trying to stop thinking the brake was on my right hand side foot. I was in 3rd on the high side so was moving along pretty good.

we are told ---- the kohler engines are designed for SAE 30 oil above 32 degrees --- and a thinner oil is designed for use during colder winter temps -- eg: 5w-30. Question: if a tractor is kept indoors -- at 55 degrees during winter before starting -- is it ok to keep the SAE 30 weight oil in it for winter since the oil will not be cold before starting -- and then oil stays warm once its running?

I can do that, I'm pretty sure it's just rust holding rust together at this point but in the name of science we should know for sure

3rd place in the points in our club was won by a SimpleCity last year. Running a belt off from a right angle gear box. I.E. SimpleCity stock factory legit. Like I stated, I've drug my stock-ish 14hp down to it's last pop many times. I plan on building a new engine this year. A stock-ish 16hp with a bit more $$ thrown at it. Hopefully I get get a few more pops out of it before it gives up.

I'm using an off the shelf spring from Ace Hardware on mine. Choose it by the length of my old one but with a heavier gauge wire. Have drug my motor down to it's very last pop several times without slipping the 5/8" wide belt.

Was going to say the same thing, I did buy mine from Giga but I didn't realize until about an hour after that they added a handling fee at the end that made them slightly more expensive than if I had ordered from Walmart, couldn't cancel the order after that amount of time. The tires did arrive and everything was fine but I won't be using them again since they bait and switch the prices so badly.

The fire ring and metal-clad gasket is what the commenter meant. There is gasket material as a middle layer between the metal outer layers.

Finished the head clean up. Found a use for the PB Blaster. Seems to cut carbon pretty good. Sprayed the head, waited 30 minutes and hit it with the Dremel using SS brushes.

As I said in another post I've been using that - amongst other proven products - for years. Remember to replace the head bolts with new Grade 8 when reassembling. One other rusty bolt removal trick. TIGHTEN the bolt just a tiny bit. Then loosen. Repeat multiple times going a little more each time.

Nothing unusual jumping out at me from those images. Keep on going! Good to see no erosion of the head or piston near the exhaust valve, too. Lotsa life left in that engine. Note the “fire ring” of metal on the inner circumference of the head gasket. Ideally, your replacement should have the same feature as this makes for the longest-lasting seal.

Grownups here who recognize that other grownups get to make their own decisions! Whatever makes you smile about that tractor is what you should go ahead and do.

Started transaxle change after pressure washing all the garden dust off the 12hp no name. Going to let her drain overnight. New shifter boot, Engine oil and brake drum seal next on the list..

As a rule I prefer not to use tape on anything that carries oil, but I have used it in fuel lines. Just be sure to allow a thread or two at the edge to be free of tape just to keep it out of the system. Liquid sealers work best in my opinion, but the same rule applies to keep it out of the tip so if doesn't get into the lines.

I never thought much about it until I added a couple of tractors to my collection. My original C-120 still has the stock Nelson Muffler (on a K301) - but it's twice as loud as my other two tractors. C-141 K321 w/stock Nelson muffler '73 No Name K321 with aftermarket muffler (surprisingly, the quietest of all 3) I asked ChatGTP about it and it provided some solutions and a drawing. I really want to keep the Nelson muffler on my C-120. Curious if anyone has successfully operated on one with some success. Here's what AI suggests Repair options (from least invasive to most involved) 1. Internal baffle stabilization (best first step) If the muffler rattles when shaken, this is likely your fix. Method Drill a small access hole (⅜"–½") on the underside Use a stiff wire or rod to confirm loose internals Tack-weld or plug-weld the loose baffle through the hole Weld the access hole shut Result Often restores 70–90% of original quietness Keeps original Nelson muffler intact Invisible once done This is the most common successful repair. 2. Internal repack (moderate skill, very effective) Original Nelsons were not fiberglass-packed like modern mufflers, but adding discreet packing helps. Method Cut a small rectangular access window on the underside Add stainless steel wool or basalt exhaust packing Re-secure internal plates if possible Weld panel back in place and grind smooth Result Significantly deeper, softer exhaust note Slightly quieter than factory Still visually original ⚠️ Do not use household steel wool—it burns quickly. 3. Hidden secondary diffuser (period-safe trick) This avoids opening the muffler at all. Method Insert a short perforated tube or cone into the outlet Secure with a hidden tack weld inside the outlet Paint flat black Result Reduces sharp crack without choking the engine Often used by restorers who want no shell modification 4. Full internal rebuild (maximum effort) Only worth it if originality matters greatly. Method Split the muffler along a seam Recreate baffles from stainless sheet Weld back together and refinish Result As quiet as new Labor-intensive but museum-grade What not to do ❌ Don’t drill random holes (makes it louder) ❌ Don’t stuff fiberglass loosely (blows out fast) ❌ Don’t neck down the outlet (hurts K-301 breathing) ❌ Don’t assume “they were always loud” — they weren’t A healthy Nelson on a K-301 should be deep and mellow, not sharp.

Happy Birthday @stevebo, we are all glad you were born.

Ran out of daylight, but the reassembly fun continues… right now a lot of it is just dry fitting all the parts and making sure all the holes and everything lineup nice and putting things back in the proper order. Was really happy with the way the aluminum dash console cleaned up on the inside… It was quite a mess with corrosion! I was not able to get the pin out of the steering wheel… No matter what I tried… Even a hydraulic press. So I decided to just sever the steering shaft and it will get reinserted and spot welded. Fortunately, I’ve got lots of leather and fireproof blankets to throw over the machine when I weld the steering shaft back together. should make for an interesting video lol.

@sqrlgtr dare I say it ? how bout every related movement point ? penetrating oil first , make the rust run out , then red aerosol spray grease extension tube , total set up smooth / easy . pete

Will do. I have to get it torn down soon so that parts can get sent out for machining.

What I see is the engine is worn but not worn out. As Don said, there is plenty of good life left in it. The "clean" side of the piston top is common, tends to run a little cooler than the exhaust side. The clean ring does not go completely around the top of the piston - that's good. Rings are somewhat worn but doing their job. Turn the engine over by hand to where the exhaust valve is the highest off the seat. Inspect & clean the valve face & seat. Severe pitting or any cracks require a partial teardown... The metal fire ring is found on the OE head gasket - newer versions do not have it....

I don't see any difference in the way each tractor starts, no matter if it's summer or winter.

Mine lives in a cold outside shed with a battery tender on it, has lived like this for over 40 years and as long as the battery is good, starts every time in the winter.

Got some more tear down done today and another batch of parts through the dip tank, im cleaning them up and hitting with some primer until I have everything ready to go back together. The only think I found that was in really tough shape was the battery tray. Anyone have one laying around they could part with? Otherwise I think I'd just make a replacement.

@CD Long Jr good going on that mr long ! totally agree on the exposed condition , would take advantage of that , with that rislone , zinc varnish cutting action , enhance that , and helps maintain clean / clear rings , think I would start it off with a 10-30 shell rotella, for a lubrication heating transition , for initial engine wake up . get some time on it , would bet that engine will be happy . would also change out that rubber hose fuel set up , probably totally broken down , the more of it you change out , the better . also a tank cleaning , remove the tank lower fuel valve , replace it , like a filter just after fuel valve ,and another close to carb . you are doing very good , your not crazy , we are , pete

I've had a couple of tractors that were stupid loud. Timing was advanced on both. Engine was laboring a little . Setting the timing helped some

I have a K301 that runs great but is stupid loud even with a new muffler. Much louder than a 14 or even FILs 16hp. Valve adjustment made no difference. Figured I'd have to go into it to figure it out...

Brake shaft rides directly on the differential bull gear. If it doesn't turn when the tractor rolls, something is wrong. You will likely have to open the case and have a look. Possibly a busted differential.

That last picture is likely the low oil relay. The regulator should be in the blower housing over the flywheel.

The engine in my 857 is from my 875. It's non ACR and starts right up.

Thanks, I hadn't ever thought about using a gasket maker for fuel fittings before. I think I will stick with the tape though, I usually end up with the gasket maker all over everything time I get done . I guess this goes without saying but the Teflon tape has to be gas resistant don't ask me how I know. .

Just an update on the Deestone's 4.00-8's. Found myself needing to order some front tires and when I got to the punch here to order button at Giga tire there was a 24$ handling fee added and tires had doubled in price. So I went with a different outfit (Wally W) that ended up being less then $22 a piece at least half as much as I can get local. I hate it when these places try and hide fees and slip them in an ya....

Mike I have tried it and unless you have a non ACR engine. That Is why bought a block heater. Been running 10 W 30. Starts good now.

Yeah, I think I'll let that patina set in...😀

I used 1/4" rubber gas line on my 300's. Also helps the use 3/8" bolts and flat washers with locking nuts at the hinge. Might need to replace or repair worn hinges,

Looks like alot of thought went into it. A shot of red paint and it'll look like factory made. Of course, there is science backing what happens next when one part gets fresh paint!

The project is a full restoration. Complete disassembly, repairs, corrosion treatment if any and repainting to factory original as close as possible.