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Here ya go EB ... I ain't gonna tell ya some bozo threw this one on the scrap pile at my old shop...

Picked up an early Raider 12 just before Christmas. Seller said he had rebuilt the trans but it stopped moving while he was plowing snow and he thought he snapped the input shaft. That didn't sound quite right to me and I suspected the key for the drive pulley was a more likely suspect. We agreed on a price delivered. The tractor came with a 42" snow blade mounted, a 42" mower deck with only one small rust hole, and extra pair of rear wheels and tires and tire chains. He also threw in a Harbor Freight 20 Ton press. He dropped it off and while I was pushing it to the shed the left rear wheel and hub came off. I immediately thought that might be its mobility issue. I got the wheel back on and pushed it in the shed. I finally got to work on it today after work. I picked up a couple Woodruff keys and stuck one in, it also needed a battery. It starts easy, runs pretty good with no smoke or obnoxious noises AND it moves in all gears. It's seeping a little where the case halves meet and it has a catch going into reverse so I'll open it back up and take care of those items. The drive belt is in pretty rough shape too and when I put a load on it, it stopped moving until I let it sit for a minute for the belt to cool so I have a new one on the way. Plan is for this one to be my new mower and the blade will go on my old Raider 9 after an engine transplant. This is the seller's pic from the ad, not much to look at but it's all there and functional....

About 2 years ago, I was informed that I had a cataract, and it was time i should start considering getting it taken care of. We'll, at the time that didn't really fit in with what all we had going on. Well, last year's eye exam showed a big degradation in my left eye. Last summer, I noticed that my short range depth preseption was off - the finish nails I drove to flush were actually standing about 1/4" proud. Bolts on machinery i was working on were farther away than where my eyes told me to put the wrench. I was having trouble getting a good sight picture of the pop can target when shooting my Daisy Red Ryder. Bunch of little things, but enough was enough. 3 weeks ago, I had my left (dominant) eye operated on, as it was the worst. Wonderful improvement! Yesterday, I had my right eye operated on. It is still dilated and not focusing quite right at reading range, but a noticable improvement in distance sight. The most impressive thing is how sharp and vivid the colors are now. If anybody out there is considering cataract surgery, I'll encourage you to go get it done. The procedure (outpatient) itself is a breeze, involving just enough knock out drugs to relax and enjoy the 'light show'. I think my reply to the "how are you doing?" question in recovery was "that was a pretty cool trip". Had a special lens installed yesterday that corrected an astigmatism. While discussing this with the surgeon pre-op, I asked him if the lens also had a .010" eyecrometer scale - he got a chuckle out of that one.

The only normal thing here...

Put a electric fuel pump on a 520. Only real place to put it near the tank. Had to remove the rear rockshaft which will probably go in classifieds since I have a dedicated tiller tractor. Anybody have a tip for getting the cable tube out?

Agree with both recommendations above. Not close to you but in Eastern Pa. SWU Engine shop. Phil does quality work.. Done the machine work on several Kohlers for me and complete overhaul on a 4-cylinder Case tractor engine and as 6-cylinder Dodge 230 six.

January 8, 1966, The Beatles' "Rubber Soul" album goes to #1 and stays #1 for six weeks, while the single "We Can Work It Out" also charts at #1 for three weeks.

I buy most of my kits on Ebay from The Man's One Stop Shop. https://www.ebay.com/itm/125901078873 I have also had good luck with Lil Red Barn Power Equipment Supply. https://www.ebay.com/itm/384156796807 Both are good to deal with.

Colonoscopy was done yesterday, they just cut out 3 benign polyps. It is good to be able to eat again. Anyways, back to tractor work today. PTO hoop ready to install. PTO hoop ends and clip greased. I did this both for ease of operation and to hopefully reduce or eliminate paint damage during installation. PTO hoop installed.

I have installed this brand on my 856. These are designed for aviation but work well on small engines. They make different ones a bit pricey but very well-made. I always say it’s good enough for aviation. It’s good enough for a lawn tractor.

Got the steering in today… Temporary fabricated sleeve for that… Till One shows up from the parts store. Hydraulics are fit in place after cleaning and painting those and the steering is feeling really nice.

Sorry that has been my user name on forums for a loong time. I have a 74 Kubota that needs a replacement floating valve, figured this was a long shot.

PTO clutch plate ready to be installed. PTO clutch plate slid onto bearing race and bolt holes aligned. PTO clutch plate retainers inserted into bearing race groove then bolts partly threaded in. PTO clutch plate bolts torqued to 96 in/lb. Wife caught me torquing the PTO clutch plate bolts.

This tractor came with the whole lot…original bill of sale, manuals, even the tag that hung on it on the showroom floor! 😂 The gentleman kept everything. I have the original bill of sale from Palomar Tractor in Escondido California. They were a Wheel Horse dealer. He also bought a rototiller, but despite efforts to contact him again, I could never find out if the tiller was sitting in a yard somewhere on his property. When I get a chance, I will post some photographs of all of the paperwork, kinda fun to see. I would love to get a tiller for it, but the shipping from back east would be pretty hard. I am a helicopter pilot and Mechanic, and have our helicopter back east all last fall and was trying to find ones on eBay to them. Coordinate picking up on my way back to Denver with the aircraft. No luck! There is a guy in Pueblo selling a snowplow for a CASE, which I may pick up in January, bringing an aircraft from Denver to San Diego🤣

Hydro tranny with foot pedal motion control and hydraulic lift...only way to plow when you have 5 driveways to clear. My 312 H at work last year .312H snow plowing - Wheel Horse Tractors - RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum

The generator bulb socket is a special one. Both the - and + are isolated. Just a heads up.

I used to take them off knowing I was never gonna run a implement BUT @Achto restores them and puts them back on. More for safekeeping than anything. If it goes out to the magic parts shed it might be lost forever. Kinda like that battery tray I know is out there. I'm sure there are pics here that show the correct set up.

Use your multimeter check battery voltage engine off. (Fully charged battery should read 12.6 volts. Start engine and bring up to full speed. Then read battery voltage again should read around 14 (13.5 to 14.5). If voltage does not come up next step is to see if the Generator or the voltage regulator is the problem. With engine running run a jumper wire from the "F" terminal on the generator (an F is stamped in the housing) to the "-" terminal on the battery. The engine should labor a bit and voltage jump up to over 14. If it does go up then your regulator is the problem if it doesn't it is the generator itself.

I haven't seen one yet that couldn't be rebuilt. Most of the time a good cleaning and new brushes will take care of them. I have had more trouble with voltage regulator's and wiring being bad then starter-gen's.

Chains are mounted inside out hook ends should be away from the tire...it will move the chain a bit close to tire...maybe not enough but you won't know till you try.

I have the facet on my C-161 and never an issue with it. Cured my hard starting immediately!

Yes, the blowers have thier own spring loaded belt tensioning pulleys.

Good point Lynn. Those old junk mule drives do make great front weight brackets, plow sway stabilizers, and reciever mounts.

I probably already own 25% of the entire Wheelhorse 520hc fleet in Australia! I'm yet to find another one. I bought it because I had land that needed a small tractor and mower. But I dont have that anymore, so really its just for the love of it.... (Until I buy a new place)

I have quite a few threads on here over the years where I modify and fabricate different stuff on my tractors. While many are successful, there are alot of things I don't put up when they just don't work out. Of course for me this has been part of the learning process, and this is also part of the fun at times too. Of course very little of what I work with is free, and I have several machines so if one is down I have others to cover whatever work needs to be done. If I only had one, I'd likely not make so many modifications. Point being? You need a couple more tractors to rotate through the worker lineup.

The smaller right side pedal acted as a manual PTO on many models mower decks from 1961 through 1967. Mainly used on rear discharge decks with a cross shaft and bevel gear setups, 32 and 36 inch widths.

Excellent series! Welcome and thank you for going through the legal process of becoming a US Citizen!

Absolutely! I have been watching Ken Burns Civil War and it is fascinating! I’m actually about to celebrate my first year of being a US citizen on January 14. Moved down here in 1999 from Canada for my job.

Cardboard... and I just picked up 10 gallons of rec gas in Mrs Sylvan's car... all windows open there and back... ssshhh...

It's not ... the pin only locks it flat. The handle on the backside locks it at angle. Works fine We workin on the lunar rover or a garden tractor Bill?

I can but its for a 7-1311 50 " bar. Prolly the same. edit: Yep same ...2660 part no. Have to wait till tomorrow in between putting a electric fuel pump on a 520.

I would just pull the valves and lap them. Wire brush things and clean up. I have the spring thingy like this ... Not ideal but a bit better than the two screw drivers that Squonky uses ...

I use the fiber washer but can get them at local hardware store. I have tried it with out the fiber washer and they will leak, just in case you're wondering.

Happy Birthday Ed. Enjoy the day....

If your axle has a Woodruff key moving the hub out is not a good idea. The hub and axle was designed for the set screw to center on the woodruff key. If moved it tilted the key and will allow the hub to move on out in the direction the hub was moved. It isn't much but the set screw is only holding on one side.

I haven't researched the snowblower yet. Is it direct drive from the PTO?

Or you slam on brakes and have to have a K301 surgically removed...

Good advice and lots of experience here. I purchased a new carb for my 414-8 from I save tractors and the fuel line fitting would not tighten so they sent me another one. The new one worked fine but the tractor would not run so I removed it and took it apart, cleaned it up and it had a piece of fiber in the main jet. It has now been running fine for probably 3years. I did save my original and have had offer from EB for rebuild and may take him up on it when this one wears out. It

Those valves should come out to properly clean them and the ports. It appears that the seats need to be freshened and likely the valves. You should be able to find a spring compressor similar to the Kohler one on ebay. Hopefully you have downloaded the engine manual so you can service and adjust the valves correctly. The bowl may have had a fiber gasket on the screw.

Sold a ‘73 10-8speed this summer. Guy picked it up in a minivan.

LOTS of practice here. And a VERY well set up machine.

I put off going to the Big Show for years and regret it. I finally got to go last year and had a great time and got to make some great acquaintances. I will warn you though I took one tractor with me (GT14) that I sold on here, but brought back home 3 tractors (551,856, and a 1257) and some more goodies.

I have seen aluminum and hard fiber bowl bolt gaskets.

I have several of that engine and one Magnum 16. My experience shows me they DO NOT like aftermarket carbs. They are nearly all too small to feed that engine. I've seen two of the "Isave" carbs that have gone bad in a fairly short time. IMHO what you need to do is: 1. Replace that carb with a real one that is rebuilt properly. 2. Replace every single inch of fuel line that you have. 3. Remove, clean, and replace the fuel pump and the fuel tank. Notwithstanding all of the above, ethanol is a huge issue especially with older fuel lines and older fuel pumps that have not yet been rebuilt.

Best off to look in the Kohler manual. did not publish any manuals for the engines that they used.

I thought about that but the nut seemed to tighten up fine. I did replace that stamped nut for a regular fine thread nut on the GT1600 project last year because the stamped one would not tighten. Throttle if anything is too tight so I left it for now. I usually replace the rivet with a bolt and nyloc nut as well. This is one I tore down and bolted up a while ago.

Engine plate ready to install. Tractor ready for engine plate to be installed. All hardware installed and nuts left just loose enough that the plate can move. Plate pulled fully forward as far as it will move (this will give maximum belt tension later on). Plate checked to be sure it is square to the frame. Left side bolts snugged to hold plate in proper position. Battery cable clips orientated as they were during disassembly then right side bolts snugged. All four bolts torqued to 30 ft/lb.

What sealer did you use? I resealed a manifold 2 years ago using Motoseal 1 based on the recommendation of another Redsquare member. Came out well.