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Weary Willie Day on December nineth celebrates a unique clown character known for his sad, downcast look. Unlike typical clowns who are cheerful and brightly dressed, Weary Willie has a somber, reflective expression that sets him apart. This day honors the art of clowning and the impact it has on making us laugh while also invoking deeper emotions. It reminds us that even in tough times, like those during the Great Depression when Weary Willie first appeared, there’s a place for humor and empathy in our lives. This special day is not just about one clown but also about recognizing the broader art of clowning. Weary Willie’s character, created by Emmett Kelly, breaks the stereotype of the happy clown and offers a different, poignant perspective. This alternative approach to humor makes people reflect on their struggles, offering a gentle reminder to take life’s challenges with a bit of humor. Celebrating Weary Willie Day encourages us to appreciate the diversity in comedic expression and the valuable role clowns play in entertainment.

Best to NOT try to use a floor jack under the middle of the axle, as there is an angled grease zerk fitting there - very easy to snap it off. I use a lifting strap around the frame near the engine - the top of the strap goes to a come-along on an overhead beam in the garage... Doing so it is then in the correct position to grease the axle pivot & spindles.....

Yes that's correct. I wasn't sure which one you had. I've definitely done that. Just a note here for those in the future looking at adding spacers. Wheel Horse has 7/16 inch lugs. Every space or I've ever seen around this size has half inch lugs. Use a half inch drill to just touch the holes in the wheel. You're barely removing any material and it does not seem to affect anything structurally. I've done this to half a dozen sets of Wheels probably. I usually find one or two of the holes are already at half inch anyway.

I cannot lie... I like big backs!

C141 has a drum for the brake. C160 does not. C160 has more space, if anything.

Thanks Guys. My 416 is going to foot control so removed those spring washers. There should be two dome shaped washers that go in facing each other for spring action. I wonder if your is missing one or they are just facing the same direction and stacked. Likely either way will work so long as you can get the proper drag when tightened as shown below.

Hello Ralph, Pack up 6 pairs of that $350 underwear and one of those cute little grass mowers! Have it delivered to my penthouse today. LOL

I have two Sunstrands. One on a '73 with a K341 and 10 pinion L/S that will spin both rears with lugged tires. The other came on a '75 c-160 that was run hard. Busted F-bracket and trashed keyways in both axles. It seemed good internally with clean fluid so I tore it down and replaced the axles. The pump and motor were in great shape so I just cleaned up the slippers and it's a spare now, likely good for many more years if I ever need it.

Well well well... a whole day dedicated to some, not all, characters on

I'll have the tie rods. You're all set there. As far as the axle pivot, at the recommendation of others on Red Square I purchased a reamer a while back. If I recall correctly it goes to 7/8 inch so I buy bushings that are 7/8 by 3/4. Not sure if a 520 is the same. I believe so. The steering gear backlash, there are a couple of great threads here on Red Square about that repair. I can get them out of my notes and post them here later.

Well it lives! I left Ewan with an axle bolted on, he’s done the clutch and got it running. next step will be a test drive. Might be a run out with C4 and some extreme testing 6C4FCCBD-20EA-45AD-BE02-F5A70638B51A.mov

@ebinmaine My 160 has brake drum it's an 8 speed, are you thinking of an auto with no drum? I did just notice @JoeM c141 has fuel tank under seat and mine is mounted under hood, might make a difference? My 160 has a separate clutch and brake pedal, idk if that makes a difference are not, but if I forget what I'm doing will about run over stuff forgetting to mash brake .

Thanks Cleat. The washers are NLA, found some NOS and have them coming. I have about 5 hours of seat time on the tractor, so here is a bit of an update/explanation for why I'm looking at the hydro controls: The engine runs fantastic after a good carb clean and replacement of all the ignition system components. Hard to believe this is a 2000 hour Onan. I will still plan on a proper reseal/valve adjustment/500+ hour service but this will require pulling the engine, so I'm going to let that go in order to tackle the more pressing needs of the machine. I do plan on an intake reseal before then just for peace of mind. The four areas that need attention: 1. Steering - extremely sloppy. Tie rod ends are shot, axle pivot is loose, steering gear backlash needs work. 2. Throttle cable creep. (Fixed) Removed the lever, drilled out the review, installed 1/4-20 bolt, washers, and nylock. 3. Charging system fault. Unit overcharges. Diagnosed the fault to be at the regulator output. Will replace regulator. For now, I have a Kohler regulator temporarily hooked up to keep everything stable. 4. Hydro leak. So far, the only leak I see is from the side of the case, below the fan where there looks to be a casting plug. Further analysis will require some deeper teardown. For now, though there is not any leak that is so massive that I could see it being responsible for the amount of debris that it had covering everything. I changed the fluid and filter (they had an automotive engine filter installed 😐). 5. Hydro creep/lack of top speed. Adjustment of the friction washers did not help. Found one broken friction washer. Plan is to rebuild the whole assembly. At 2000 hours, it's just all ready to be replaced anyway. I've taken it apart, cleaned and inspected, welded up some wear on the adjustment cam, and reinstalled. The spring washers aren't really a wear item, but it can't hurt to have new ones. Will plan on new rod ends for the linkage and new bushing for the lever pivot. Don't like the use of the nyliners, so depending on difficulty of access, I may elect for modification and an oilite bearing upgrade. It now can reach almost full travel on the cam plate and will hold lever position much better. Still a long way from being correct, but makes the unit much less annoying to drive. 6. Final electrical fixes. Deutsch plug for disconnecting engine from chassis. Get all dash lighting operational. Fix rear light fixtures. Lots to do, but it does run, drive, steer, stop and mow now. Shame the owner let it get this bad.😥

There are probably many bulbs that will work. I'm guessing a GE No. 67 single contact bulb or if it's a double contact a 68. There are many variations of this bulb with different wattages, lumens and life expectancy.

Cleat's thread is fantastic. However, during the rebuild, he did not use the factory spring washer and tension washer setup at the hydro cam plate, so for OEM reference it does not suffice. https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/110413-got-another-one-a-416-this-time/?do=findComment&comment=1253363

People seem to be very happy with Hipa products. https://www.hipastore.com/

After 6 years, the search for the Burns engine is over! As far as I know it's the correct spec for the tractor, little bit newer than it but it's a 6 hp with the old style flywheel shroud which was really what I was looking for. Air cleaner is completely disintegrating and the pull start is gummy but it has compression so I'm hopeful. Excited to get it running to finally get this tractor going again!

Not really to, but with: The first post I couldn't get balanced on the dolly well because there wasn't enough room to work, so I had to leave it attached to the engine crane too. The whole thing was too heavy and unbalanced for me to push up the ramp to the garage by myself, so I got to thinking about my options. The 855 has the plow on, plows are for pushing things. Fired it up and set the plow at the right height to engage the base of the post, and up the hill we went. Do we have a "What have you done WITH your WH today?" thread?

most mill tapers are a larger angle than a Morse taper and they are usuly held in with a bolt that runs through the spindle. The Morse taper is a self locking taper (steel on steel self locking tapers are 10 degrees or less) and they don't like side loads on the spindle. I had a 1/4" end mill chucked up once freehanding some sort of odd shaped hole. It grabbed, rattled the work piece around and in the blink of an eye, shook the chuck out of the spindle. Fortunately, when it grabbed, it just walked around the hole I started with and didn't grab the work piece hard enough to spin it - thus avoiding a @Pullstart type incident. Having the work piece in a vice and using the vice as a handle helped a bit.

A few more - he completed the drive flanges, so now the hubs are driven. onto final bits = the rear axle keyways were badly wallowed. So fresh 1/4 slots milled ready for much longer keys.

Probably best to remove the deck if you want a good look. If you have a set of car ramps you can get a quick look.

Hydraulic hoses #905 Viton O rings. Hydraulic hoses #905 Viton O rings installed. Hydraulic halve and hoses as removed. Make sure to install the hoses the same as removed or the hydraulics will work backwards (don't ask how I know). O rings on hydraulic hoses oiled then screwed tightly into valve.

Care to post your list.

Hydraulic fittings and new #906 Viton O rings. Hydraulic fittings new #906 Viton O rings installed. Backup washer and nut screwed out until O ring is just contacted. This is the position to screw the fitting in and still have room to tighten the nut ensuring the O ring stays in the proper place on the fitting and not pushed into threaded areas. Hydraulic fittings ready to install into the valve. Valve has new #111 Viton O rings already installed. This is a picture I took of the valve as removed showing fitting orientation. Hydraulic fittings installed after oiling O rings, and orientated roughly the same as removed. This will make installation of the valve easier (I hope).

I have some spacers with factory 7/16" holes and one set that has 1/2" wheel studs. I haven't drilled any wheels before but have seen were several others have done this, and it seems to not affect anything.

the pics show measurements of the plow frames, distance taken from the swivel bolt in the front. Difference of lifting attachment points, xi is 52 1/2 Also the standard plow handle will need modified for use on the xi because the running boards are wider and different.

Niiiiice

Lots of companies used 1-1/8" however M-18s With thrust bearings are fairly rare. Electric PTO is an option

That's how it is on our 1963 lawn ranger

CALL Lincoln at A to Z Tractor in PA...

I have a set of 24 12 12 on a 1979 C141. They are on 10 inch rims. and I had to use spacers so the wheel would clear the brake assy. I am not sure of the backspacing of the rims, thinking 2 1/4". The tires clear the seat pan without modes. One note, I am not sure 48 deck gauge wheels would clear the tires. Pretty wide across the beam.

Yep, some Cubs used them, but they used electric clutches because there are no thrust washers on the crank.

be carefull might be flux capacitor and send u back or forward in time., just according to how they have it wired.

No, no he won't...

That's when he'll switch to the higher cost lean bacon!! If there is such a thing!!

yep the good old days, when life was simple and days lasted twice as long. sometimes I long for those times again.

So bolt the spring on top of the hitch with bolts 1/4 inch longer.

it wasn't, but with a bigger table on the mill it could've been done. The shafts were still left in the diff housing

if you use a 1/4" end mill and your vice is rigid, then it might work.... I used to cut these slots in the lathe with an end mill

I have two more sets of these wide 520H wheels. Likely I'll duplicate the exact setup on other tractors.

I got some spacers and was just wondering. Really like the look and would welcome the extra stability for these hills around here... glad to hear about nothing done to fender...

Never heard of a 1997 lawn ranger . You have a picture ?

I got these because they're a good full measurement of the advertised/marked tire size. Definitely nothing to the fender. I believe there are spacers in there but I don't recall thickness. I prefer the extra width for the extra stability. Do you NEED spacers? Maybe not considering the backspacing is good.

Update here. Transmission is back together. I attached a picture of the seals that I finally pulled out! I was able to punch them in toward the center and pry them out without damaging the housing. They were a mix of a metal ring with the rubber seal that seals around the axle. The "glue" around the metal ring is too uniform to be an aftermarket part so I'm assuming these are from the factory. The new seals fit well...hope they work!

Seconded. I've liked the round fenders of the 60s Deere for decades. I've had one here many years ago long before I had the knowledge and tools we do now. Given the chance, and gifted the tractor, ... I'd consider one again... but Trina won't touch a green thing with a 39 1/2 foot pole. For Cubs... my maternal Grampa had two. One was yellow and white. Model unknown. The other was a red one from around 1980. 682? 782? I'd get another one for sure...

Based on experience with WH O-ring part numbers i would say #92 is a Dash 132

Also make sure it's not leaking at the input shaft. They can mist fluid and the hydro fan will spread fluid to parts unkown making it look like it's leaking from somewhere else.

A few more of the build

Diesel is slowly going back together. Eventually I'll have to pull it to the front and pull the engine to replace the starter and some annoying to reach gaskets. Going to be doing some fab work, taking a firewall from a parts tractor and modifying it to go in front of the battery to do three things: keep the battery from walking off the tray due to the front being cut off, give some support to the hood to prevent it from breaking the top of the dash again, and also to keep the battery from shorting against the hood if the hood breaks the dash again. Shame the hood (not pictured) is so bad looking, they seem to have sanded all the red off and then shoddily painted it white. I don't have the kind of money that people want for an original diesel hood, nor do I really think that it's a huge priority thing to buy given the leaking injectors and the completely gutted and rotten muffler...