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just back from my surgeon , rated newest x rays , perfect in all respects , see you in 5 years , unless there is a related injury or pain . told him I was regularly daily walking a ball field track lay out , forward / backwards / alternating stretching , thru out , track time . showed me a perfect reference x ray , overlap . spot on . keep doing what you are doing . will keep that going . pete

The world celebrates Good Grief Day on November 26 every year to honor the life and the legacy of one of America’s most revered, legendary cartoonists Charles M. Schulz. Schulz is best known as the author of the “Peanuts” comic strip, and his stories and characters have brought boundless delight to the globe. The fact that his characters — Snoopy, Charlie Brown, and the rest of the gang — have withstood the test of time demonstrates how influential these legendary characters have had on global pop culture. Named after the iconic Charlie Brown catchphrase, Good Grief Day celebrates the life and work of the immovable Charles M. Schulz. Schulz was born on November 26, 1922, in Minneapolis, Minnesota. His interest in the arts was evident during his upbringing, as he would spend his days taking in the works of Pablo Picasso, Edward Hopper, and Andrew Wyeth, while also developing a penchant for cartoons. As a child, he would draw dozens upon dozens of cartoons, inspired by either the cartoons he admired or the world around him. Growing up, he aspired to be a cartoonist, and at the age of 15, he sent one of his drawings to the “Ripley’s Believe it or Not!” weekly column, which became his first published cartoon — he knew from then on that this was his life. After returning from military service in Europe in 1945, he would further develop his career as a cartoonist, scoring his weekly series in 1947. That cartoon was “Li’l Folks,” which would be the predecessor of his magnum opus. “Li’l Folks” would later draw the attention of mega publishers United Features Syndicate in 1950, who asked him to develop a new weekly comic strip. Thus, on October 2, 1950, “Peanuts” was born. The iconic series would later become the longest-running comic strip in history — running until Schulz’s death in 2000.

Bright lights shining in my bedroom window at 5 AM got me up in a hurry. Just lime spreader getting an early start. Oh well, I'm awake and it's raining. Good day to pull out the Christmas decorations. Check some lights and set up the Nativity set that my sister made over 50 years ago.

Winter! New tensioner cog and drive shaft bearing on the blower. Waxed up the shoot and the blades. Decided to fill the rear tires with RV antifreeze and distilled water. 5:2 gallons respectively (7 gallons is capacity). Much easier than anticipated. Takes a bit of time to get it all in there but these wheels really bite now.

Awhile back, I picked up a New Holland GT22 on the cheap. Non runner, 745 hours and non power steering option. After getting the engine running and sealed up, I cut some grass and it ran real good. I really have no interest in non power steering machines now that I am spoiled, so I put it on the back burn as maybe a flip. In between, along came a Toro xi that was good for parts and it had good power steering. When I disassembled it I saved the tower and associated steering parts thinking I just might install those into the GT22. I figured if given a couple two three afternoons I can get it installed. A scheduled surgery got delayed and that opened the window of opportunity for the GT. Put her in the shop and got started. Lets just say the two to three was a pipe dream. After six it is all done. Now saying, if I would have just had to install the steering the original estimate would have been good. (would have stretched it to three to four, I like taking breaks) Other problems. The first one was the steering wheel on the donner would not come off. Soaked, beat and air hammered, no go. Ended up burning one afternoon making a special puller. (pic 1 @2) I wanted to just switch the dash and gauges out. Next came the electrical gremlins. When I turned on the key the cruise control magnet would activate. That locked the hydro control in neutral or close to neutral. Okay dug into that and found the cruise indicator light was back feeding the cruise relay. I repaired that it worked fine. (I had installed a spare cruise relay for testing) I switched back to the original and it would not work at all. So, two problems a bad light socket and relay. Another afternoon burned up. That's my story and I am sticking to it! Got to strip r down pretty good

All: The C81 I purchased from @Sparky this summer had a rear that had walked inward and I could not get it loose with my puller; in fact I cracked the flange while attempting to do so. I planned on using my HFT Portable Bandsaw to cut the hub, but the flange diameter was greater than the saw's 5 inch throat opening. Snapped the broken flange piece with a large Crescent wrench, now the saw fits. Supported th hub with a jack to help keep it from rotating the axle and the plan was to cut thru the hub at the top of the keyway - and not touch the axle itself. A little more cleanup and the entire top of the keyway was exposed. Used my puller to remove it - got to love that "Snap" sound when it finally breaks free. Damaged the Woodruff Key in the process Used the Vise Grip / Slide Hammer to convince it to leave... 

You thinking what I'm a-thinkin'??

Put an air cleaner on it first. Snow engines don't come with air cleaners

Leaf season was pretty tame this year. No rain or snow, so leaves were lightweight. Wind was constant, so leaves fell quickly and many of them blew to the neighbors. Two strong grandsons eager to get some seat time, and I didn't have to do anything but watch.

Yes, it was her project in a ceramics class back in the 70s. So I made the rustic barn to fit in the display unit.

Loaded the car for weekend visiting. Off early tomorrow. - borrowed tow-behind core aerator - the camp generator I re-engined - a set of kids building blocks I rehabbed - bike rack parts - “go” tool bag (there are always small repairs needed!) - some wheels to drop off with @ri702bill - a stereo to “pass on" - cooler for our Thanksgiving meal contributions My spouse asked if there would be room for her!

You won’t. I ended up “decanting" my penetrant into little 2 oz. bottles like these. I can drip or squirt.

My surgeon has two kids in a European college, a wife that wants a divorce, and a high maintenance girl friend. He says I need to see you every six months!

About as much fun as going to the Dentist & the DMV on the same day... Really quick cutting the cast iron when you use a new 10-14 TPI staggered tooth blade. That saw has nice control & variable speed. There has been various folks that mentioned cutting a hub off; I figured I'd post it - with pictures.

Good idea on the bandsaw. I hope I never have to remember that. I cut one off using a Sawzall once. That was fun.

So, he signed your "OK to go back to Work" note...???

The cheapies can be hit or miss. I've used them on non-critical tractors but I'll probably just use up what I have on the shelf and be done with them. I use Mr. Gasket 42S and will stick with them only because it keeps everything common. There are lots of good ones out there. All the pumps I've seen are 5/16" fuel lines. Depending on the install I use 1/4"-5/16" brass fittings or a fuel filter that has stepped in/outs. As far as power I usually just come off the key switch but I have put a separate switch inline (fuse at the pump). Your choice but I wouldn't come off the accessory terminal. It cuts out in the start position. I really like this location for the rear tank tractors. 1/4" at the tank valve to a 1/4"-5/16" 90° brass fitting to the pump.

Hoodstand ready to be installed. Hoodstand bolts ready. I ended up just using 10 of the shorter bolts, the longer ones were not needed. Hoodstand and foot control auto-center lever ready to be installed. Hoodstand sat into position on frame and two front lower bolts screwed in to hold it in position. All the lower side bolts screwed in finger tight then the top left bolts were screwed in finger tight. This will properly align the hoodstand. The foot control auto-center lever is now ready to be installed. Picture shows slightly longer bolts (7/8") but these were not required so I used the same length bolts as in the rest of the hoodstand (5/8"). Foot control auto-center lever installed. All 10 hoodstand mounting bolts including the ones in the foot control auto-center lever torqued to 17 ft/lb. The 1/4" pivot bolt in the foot control auto-center lever is just tightened enough to not have any side to side play but must pivot freely.

Get it dirty wash it off put it to work.

More cool pictures

Diesel wheel horse

Does your car have roof racks? And does she have a good grip?

I'm still amazed that those astronauts could fit in those little capsules. ...Not thier entire bodies mind you, just the large shiny brass balls they were toting with them. Courage? I think it takes courage to go to the store when my wife needs feminine articles. Those early astronauts were on an entirely different plane of existence.

Bending the lead wires a few times while handling one of the un-potted voltmeters was enough to break off the red lead wire at its connection point, where solder in the copper strands creates a stress riser. To protect against this kind of damage, I potted the voltmeter in such a way that the leads are well secured against bending anywhere near the solder joint on the board.

We're( Mrs. K and me) are now over 80 and attend the Silver Sneakers stretch, balance, and strength classes at our Anytime Fitness gym three days a week. Although they receive many grunts and groans, squats are included in the programs.

On my drive to work this morning. Top of the hill near the Worcester airport

Yup. I had 'help' from the neighbor kids this year - random raking directions, jumping in the piles, etc.

if using a snow blower, i guess i would want to carefully patrol the leaf piles first to look for rocks, branches etc - - so as to not damage the blower auger etc

I can do that! Thanks!!!

Lifted this off of FB. Might be an interesting experiment. FB post - Using a snowblower to collect leaves.

This is the hitch I got with my cyclone rake from Woodland

I did get a bit when he made the turn, but I'll still have to buy a half ton to lime the rest of the yard and garden. I add lime every winter.

I ended up with larger amounts of leaves layered too thick for effective use of the sweeper. I ended up using the leaf blower to round up the leaves into large piles. While using the leaf blower, I was museing about a leaf plow for one of the Horses. They are available - at a price of $600 to $800. Too expensive for me. That price would obtain another Wheel Horse! But, I have a welder. A sheet of expanded metal, a couple sticks of angle iron, and a couple Harbour Freight caster wheels will be a bunch cheaper than $600. Looks like I've got another project on the list.

Many gasoline engines have a fuel tank mounted on the engine. The pressure requirement is very low. the 1.5 PSI pump will be your best choice. The Facet Posi-Flo is the pump of choice for many people. The CarBole electronic fuel pump is another popular option. In either case it is best to mount the pump below the level of the fuel tank, obtain electrical power from a source that will turn off with the ignition key and be sure to provide a fused source of power. On tractors that are equipped with an hour meter that is a good place to connect the electrical line since it already a fuse protected device. If you don't have an hour meter and your engine has battery powered ignition then the wire going to your ignition coil would be a good source but a 5 or 10 amp fuse should be added to the wire feeding the fuel pump.

100%

From what I understand the early 60s like 64 65 had those vacuum pumps. Not 100% sure. Some people like them I personally did not. I have an 856 I did not like that vacuum pump that had on it so I opted to go electric fuel pump that was before I knew about then and now so I saved that page and I will be giving them a call.

Your blade quadrant resembles the curved #11 in the IPL clip below. This early one shows 3 holds--left, center, and right for positioning the blade straight rotated to either side. Some later models came with 5 holes with the extras being left and right of the center halfway to the “outer” holes. Some members with a 3 drilled it to become a 5 and are quite pleased with the extra positions. (Note that blades before 1964 had a different style of quadrant)

I had brake lever that was badly worn, so I used it as a guinea pig and drilled an offset hole to change the angle. I put it as close to the old hole as I felt comfortable with. turns out that was too much adjustment. For now, I just ground down the face and it's working properly. I still don't know if this tractor salvageable or will become a part donor. If it turns out to be a driver, I'll fabricate a proper brake lever.

Ditto. My metric Grizzly knockoff has a 20 mm (.787) pass thru diameter. I also have about 3X the cost of the lathe, used, in tooling and DRO. The problem with previously owned equipment is that they are similar to used cars and WH tractors. You are looking for one that is used, not used up. A bargain priced lathe or mill with worn-out ways can be very expensive and time consuming to repair. NOT a project you can do at home. The ways get worn with use; they wear on a lathe mostly near the headstock, a milling machine near the middle where the vise is. The leadscrews also wear resulting in inaccurate positioning due to excessive backlash.

I got bored this afternoon so I decided to see just how frozen the exhaust nipple was. It had soaked in Kroil for a few hours so I smacked the open end a few times with a large hammer. Next using a 24" pipe wrench I tried tightening it some. I don't think it moved but couldn't be sure. Using a 24" wrench I tried to loosen it. After a bit of leaning on the wrench it actually gave in. I reversed the process and tightened it again and then when I tried to loosen it again it turned about an 1/8 of a turn. From there it was just coming out. The nipple did deform when it first started to loosen but that just made it easier for the pipe wrench to get a grip on it. Exhaust parts are on order so now I wait....

Looks great as well. I've had mixed luck with the digital volt meters, but I agree- they work for years or quit in a couple weeks. The round ones I've been using seem to hold up well for a long time.

It's safe to say the condenser has seen better days. I've got another one on order. Between the condenser, carburetor rebuild and replacing the exhaust system it'll be a week or so before I can start the engine again.

It ain't me!! From the webs: "Birds: Woodpeckers: They are known to raid hornet nests for the larvae. Summer Tanagers: These birds catch hornets in midair and smash them against tree branches. Other birds: Animals like starlings, magpies, and blue jays also eat hornet larvae, especially in the fall. Mammals: Skunks: They are known to dig up and consume wasp nests, even very large ones. Bears: These large animals will tear open nests to get at the larvae. Raccoons and badgers: These mammals will also raid nests for the protein-rich larvae. Wolverines: These animals are also known to eat wasp larvae from nests. Weasels and rats: These smaller mammals also prey on hornet larvae".

Here's a question: What would you plan on doing with it besides hanging your hiking clothes to dry?

It is one of their larger so called “ engine lathe”. It is a metal lathe. It is from the early 1900s. One however with sometimes needed modifications can use just about any metal lathe for wood the same however not many times being able to be so with a wood lathe for metal. As for getting it depends on the price and one’s affinity for old machinery . If it has Babbitt bearings most likely they have to be “repoured “. Not a difficult job but requires a little knowledge on subject. Definitely an eye catching awesome thing to look at like all machinery from that period. A period of great human ingenuity and quality work that as seen here still functions as it designed to do. To me they have a unique “presence” that immediately draws one’s attention. The motor is of course a modern one but perhaps one of the best motors ever made in this country. To me any American made Baldor or Marathon of the period of that one is far superior from anything in that category that you buy today. When one comes across something like that in someone’s shop that is pretty much intact, look around at everything else. That is not an ordinary individual that uses something like that. You may be surprised at all the other treasures he has. It all tells a story as to what type of individual he was ( or hopefully still is).

I recoated the inside of the cavity with mold release, sealed the hole around the wires, suspended the voltmeter in place with some tape, and poured the resin. I removed the casting from the cavity and washed off the mold release. I was pretty happy with the way it turned out. I removed the old battery icon from the dashboard decal by glass bead blasting to remove the translucent red and a bit of acetone to remove the black battery image. I tried blasting a test piece from an old dashboard decal first, and was pleased that it didn't warp the plastic, which is almost paper thin. I painted the newly-cleared area black, cut out a small rectangle to match the voltmeter, and attached a small piece of clear plastic sheet behind the cutout. The reason for the cutout is that the decal sheet has some significant surface texture on the front surface (NOT from the bead blasting) that produced a fuzzy/halo effect around the numbers, and the cutout eliminated that problem. I then mounted the light assembly and decal sheet on the tractor and installed the dashboard 'lens' over the whole thing. The wiring was easy, as it only involved rerouting the wires that were previously connected to the old battery light module. Just some cuts, crimps, heat shrink, and a couple of cable ties. It works great and allows me to check the voltage at a glance. When I turned on the ignition without starting the engine, it read 12.3 volts, which was accurate and in the proper voltage range. Here you see it with the engine running and charging, and it's showing what I consider to be within the proper charging voltage range.

If that 1/2" belt is clean and you have the sleeve, take it back to TSC for a refund and buy a green Aramid 5/8 X 82 belt.