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For those familiar with the Upper Peninsula of Michigan (Da UP), here's a required tool in every tool box:

Made a new lift link for the 1257 with the HY2 unit. Wanted something with a little adjustment to it. Still needs a little paint but works good with dozer blade.

Little 856 really likes its new to it wheels and tires.

Got the C-120 ready for the impending storm they're forecasting. Since it's Thanksgiving weekend, I'm thankful that the hydraulic lift I installed is working great! And I got the last of the leaves picked up, which frees up the C-141 in the unlikely event we get enough snow to hook up the snowblower.

Geeze, I never thought of using a hammer handle. I just use my fingers.

Well getting things prepped for the inevitable snow. Went out and put a battery in my bronco 14 with the 18hp Briggs vanguard v-twin in it. Started right up and ran exceptional after sitting for over a year. Last time i swapped the battery out I ground the positive terminal to the choke cable. It melted through the metal casing but the wire on the inside was still good. So being cheap as I am I redneck fixed it with a stick off the tree outside the garage and some electrical tape. Worked like a charm. The choke works like it should now. Temporary but probably long term fix 😂

I've gotten into the habit of adding a second ground cable to the starter housing. Simple, neat and effective. The fastening points already existed... why not?

It is the 29th of November it is 31 degrees and tomorrow they forecast snow. I am declaring victory over the leaves and quitting...Enough is enough' The GT-1848 Auto did a great job, much faster and easier than the C-175-8 I used to use...

Erics Snow pusher Cleats Snowplow

I think I found my issue. When I traced the wires from the pto switch, I found the wire to the brake safety switch was worn and making contact with the lift cylinder. Replaced the wire and rerouted it so it wouldn’t happen again. Got too cold to try to fire it up, but I’ll verify tomorrow to make sure that solved the problem.

Got this Super Scooper plow all set up!

It lives! It's too cold now for the grass to grow enough to mow, but I knocked down some tumbleweeds with it. 😁😁

Chestnuts roasting on an open fire. Is to early for Christmas carol. Got this from @Pullstart at big show this year and haven’t got to mess with it much….Yet

Whatever's handy.

And that's the deluxe model tool kit. The basic kit is just a stick.

Hydraulic cylinder ready to be installed. This frame was missing the spacer so I am just stacking 3 thick washers instead. Tractor ready and waiting for the hydraulic cylinder. Spacer washers slid on and the shaft is greased where the cylinder will sit. Hydraulic cylinder slid onto shaft. Hydraulic cylinder pin greased and ready to be installed. Hydraulic cylinder pin installed. Overview as of today.

I run the battery negative wire directly to a S/G mounting bolt on the older ones and like @ebinmaine go to the starter mounting bolt on the newer ones. Cast iron is a fairly good conductor of electricity, but not as good as copper. Silver is a better conductor than copper and gold is a much better conductor than aluminum but then we have to consider cost, so copper it is.

Same here. I don't have any left thread taps so all my ends are RH. Assemble. Adjust. Reassemble and tighten up. Done.

Great farmer repair... duck tape, binder twine, baler wire, and a stick.

The hood and wheels were actually linen beige (Allis-Chalmers cream) but the photo's made it look more white. Inspiration? Found other pics out of the bright sun

If you have bearings on both ends this is a kit I have used with good results. A raw edge cogged belt is best for a S/G.

My 92 312-8 before… And after. My 78 C-141 before… And after. My 87 308-8 before… And after.

The Low Rider before after

Saved a two piece seat. Before After

spectacular projects ----- great photos -- awesome work -- don't mean to hyjack your before and after tractor thread but thought i would add some before and after of WH mower rehabs -- here is a 37 sd rescue rehab before and after of deck i found

Skid shoes can be made from a piece of angle steel to be used in place of the steel wheels. WH changed to skid shoes on the blowers too

So when are you dipping your 953's in gold?

Take what you had and make it look loke a planter with flowers!!

The HY2 and HY3 are identical except for the bellcrank. HY2 fits the PITA to remove shaft thru the tube design 1961 and 1962 tractors, HY3 has the bellcrank that is easy to remove with 2 bolts for the 1963 and 64, possibly more years than that. No Automatics those years...

I like the concept, and it’s terrific as long as it’s a direct pull. For some implements the link needs an offset for clearance.

I was running through some old pic's. Typically I don't take many pics before, mostly during. Both of these machines were 6 month projects working off and on. The surprise was both engines were in real good shape. Anyone else got some before and after pics.

I did use right hand Heim joints on my plow but liked the idea of adjusting lift without having to remove link from machine. I can cut LH threads on my lathe but if had no way of cutting left hand I would have used right hand hardware also. I had factory lift links but one was just a tad too short and another was just a tad too long hence the idea of an adjustable one . I can swap it back and forth between different machines also, but will probally build at least one more .

Do you have to use a LH drill bit to tap a LH thread?? No. It's been my experience that left-handed components (drills, taps, hardware) can either be more difficult to locate, or cost more than the common RH counterpart. Or both. One big reason I avoid them is my lathe has no provision to single point cut LH male threads. Tapping LH female threads is fine.

Wheelhorse diesel in action bcaaf875471e1b1d6182b1df34e3dd87.mp4

Nice - a true turnbuckle type of adjustment, like an old automotive 3 piece tie rod. Being a 20 pitch thread, I would have skipped the LH version & gone with two RH ones. One full rotation of the clevis is .050 inch movement - being symmetrical, a half turn is only .025 inch..... Set it once & forget it. I did just that with my plow angling rod. Heim ends are 1/2-20 RH thread. Adjust once & done.

One on FBMP for $450.

Looks like the big rigs they use to clear shopping mall parking lots...

Good to hear that you found the problem. If the tire pressure wasn't it here's another thing to try that has worked for me a couple times. Remove the belt tension. On a level surface lower the blower so it sits on the ground. Loosen the bolts holding the mounting bracket to the blower body. Place a small spacer under the left side of the blower body (about 3/8"-1/2"). Tighten the mounting bolts securely. Reattach the belt. It does often work. Raising the left side a little compensates for the belt tension pulling on the other slop areas. There's always some slop even if it an itsy-bitsy amount.

Funny. Most of the bearings I've replaced were the non pulley end.

Eric - those are clevis rod ends. McMaster should have them. Beware of cheap cast versions.. Only slightly stronger than cream cheese..

This has been a really interesting post. Don't have much in the way of before/after pictures but one thing I observed is that almost every shop is packed full just like mine. I'd be at home in any of them.

I will have an operational machine in the next 12 hours! 😁😁

Got the Suburban in a deal when I purchased my 1st RJ (regretfully sold the RJ) Seller said it had to go also if took the RJ. It was really close to being scrap. Was able to put it together with spare parts so cost was minimal. It gets lotsa likes/attention at shows. Yet to do a complete restoration. Instead I just bought my already restored tractors from @Buckeyes. Definitely more cost effective.......

The only green Wheel Horse I've ever seen that I like. Not that my opinion matters, but it does look nice. At least it isn't "that" green with yellow wheels!

Browsing Ebay I came across this. I was totally shocked when I saw that it was located in Deland, FL, only about 15 miles from me. The paint was much worse than the picture indicates and the engine was a welded mess but I wanted it. I actually physically looked at it prior to bidding and it was the very same model my Dad brought home brand new when I was 5 years old. My proxy bid wasn't going to be beat but I ended up winning it for $285.00. Down to every nut and bolt then rebuilt. Both the 500 and the 400 are on display in a 4 season porch on one of the main roads out of Mishawaka now.

Trailer Couple tractors (sorry no before for the rat)...

These two tractors were clearly 'parts only' machines. A 657 and a 500 Indy Special. After some mingling and hanky panky they emerged as this.

Did this in a month including replacing the hydro.