Electric lift installation question

[Panther416-8 341]

I'm preparing to install the WH electric lift kit and I'm at the dreaded stage of removing the manual lift lever through the bell crank and out from the left side of the tractor.  I've been soaking around that bell crank with PB for over a week. Any tricks to use on this or just start pounding the lift lever shaft on the right-side of the tractor with a suitable size bolt as a drift?  I've already disconnected the lift chain, removed e clip on right side and the 3 bolts holding the lift lever on the left side. I imagine I that I don't want to hit too hard if the bell crank is frozen on the shaft as it would be forcing against the left hand side of whatever that portion of the tractor is called. It's the black metal area above the frame and doesn't look to be too heavy of a gauge. Hope I don't have to cut the shaft of the old lift lever as I need to get a new cutting torch and I'm not sure there is enough room to get a Sawzall in there. Any suggestions would be appreciated. 

Matt

[peter lena 8,037]

@Panther416-8  ,https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=wheel+horse+manual+lift+diagram&qpvt=wheel+horse+manual+lift+diagram&form=IGRE&first=1&tsc=ImageHoverTitle  , just doing some snooping around , you might find your set up here , or a search start  point , thinking , solid rust , or a C CLIP , holding the shaft in place . hope it helps , pete

[cafoose 3,135]

When I removed the dreaded hitch pin I used something like this with an air hammer after soaking in penetrating oil for a while:

[Panther416-8 341]

Thanks Pete. It's an 84223 lift kit and I have the instructions.  Everything is removed to allow the lift lever to be slid out. It won't slide so I'm going to start tapping it from the right side and see what happens. 

[Panther416-8 341]

No go on pounding it through the bell crank but it looks like it can be slide far enough out on the left side to cut through the lift lever shaft with a reciprocating saw. Hopefully once it's out on a bench I can get the remainder of the shaft punched through the bell crank or see if there's one on ebay.

[Bill D 1,596]

I drove out the roll pin holding the lift lever to the shaft.  I was able to get the lever off the shaft (got lucky).  I then took the bushings out of the hood stand and was able to get the shaft and the lift piece in the center out as one unit.  Maybe that'll work for you.

[Panther416-8 341]

Thanks all. I was able to saw off the manual lift lever nice and clean and with a little pounding on a vise and some penetrant I was able to get the bell crank off unharmed. New shaft to be used with the electric lift shown to the right in the 3rd picture...time for a cold one

[Panther416-8 341]

Any thoughts on what to apply to the new shaft before installing through the bell crank? Grease? Antisieze?

[Bill D 1,596]

Copper never seize.

Edited August 13, 2022 by Bill D

[peter lena 8,037]

@Panther416-8 ,  bill D  above has a good suggestion, think I  would use red grease , aerosol  , another thing I do is to regularly give those often forgotten areas a lubrication drink , often say  "  make the rust run out  " that cross shaft  area , needs a regular keep it smooth lube drink ,  pete  

[Handy Don 10,567]

1 hour ago, Panther416-8 said:

Any thoughts on what to apply to the new shaft before installing through the bell crank? Grease? Antisieze?

I'd use anti-seize for sure--especially in the keyway. I'd also have on clothes that I could discard and nitrile gloves -- that stuff gets everywhere!!

[Panther416-8 341]

44 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@Panther416-8 ,  bill D  above has a good suggestion, think I  would use red grease , aerosol  , another thing I do is to regularly give those often forgotten areas a lubrication drink , often say  "  make the rust run out  " that cross shaft  area , needs a regular keep it smooth lube drink ,  pete  

 

13 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

I'd use anti-seize for sure--especially in the keyway. I'd also have on clothes that I could discard and nitrile gloves -- that stuff gets everywhere!!

 

1 hour ago, Bill D said:

Copper never seize?

Guys, if I use the copper antsieze would you recommend putting the grease on it too or is that one or the other?

 

[peter lena 8,037]

@Panther416-8 copper never sieze , by itself is good . with the keyway , use the red grease on the other ,slide fit have to move areas . make sure any related linkage is lubricated , you can add a few washers on connection points and grease , makes for a very smooth solid connection , pete

[roadapples 6,981]

Emory cloth....

[Handy Don 10,567]

Grease for things that move (rotate, slide, etc.); anti-seize for things that don't.

[Panther416-8 341]

Thanks for the suggestions folks. Emery cloth on the shaft is a good idea before the antisieze/lube

[Bill D 1,596]

1" sandpaper flap wheel to polish the inside of the lift arm and a little sand paper to clean the keyway.  Then liberal amounts of never seize.

[ri702bill 7,275]

10 hours ago, Bill D said:

Then liberal amounts of never seize.

Usually an amount the size of a pea is more than adequate - I say more because, like @Handy Don mentioned, it mysteriously gets everywhere. Use the regular grade silver anti-sieze for a bit and you finish looking like the Tin Man from The Wizard of OZ......

[Panther416-8 341]

18 hours ago, Bill D said:

1" sandpaper flap wheel to polish the inside of the lift arm and a little sand paper to clean the keyway.  Then liberal amounts of never seize.

 

7 hours ago, ri702bill said:

Usually an amount the size of a pea is more than adequate - I say more because, like @Handy Don mentioned, it mysteriously gets everywhere. Use the regular grade silver anti-sieze for a bit and you finish looking like the Tin Man from The Wizard of OZ......

Thanks Bill and ri702. I'm just about at the stage of applying the antisieze and assembly. I had a heck of a time getting the clutch pedal off the shaft in order to install the frame bracket at the fixed end of the actuator. The bushing with the set screw that keeps the pedal on the shaft was rust welded. Had to drill out the set screw and use ample heating, penetrant and banging to get it off the shaft. Here's a pic of the actuator just mocked up to see how it will look.  

[JCM 8,627]

8 hours ago, ri702bill said:

Usually an amount the size of a pea is more than adequate - I say more because, like @Handy Don mentioned, it mysteriously gets everywhere. Use the regular grade silver anti-sieze for a bit and you finish looking like the Tin Man from The Wizard of OZ......

 I grew up one house away from a farm. One day I was working on my Farmall Super A and the Farmer came over to watch what I was doing. Every bolt I removed got a bit of never-seize on it . Yesterday I was using some on my C-120 and I could still hear his voice saying to me. Jimmy. that stuff will be in your bed tonight you know that don't you, and I laughed like it was just yesterday. But you know that was over 30 years ago and will never forget that moment. Priceless.

[Panther416-8 341]

The new electric lift is all installed and works so sweet. Curious as to how well it will work with a 2 stage blower. It's gotta beat the manual lift. The 416 is an '87 or '88 and has the external voltage regulator so I believe that is the 15 amp system so it should be adequate to jeep the battery charged even while snowplowing if I don't go crazy with the up and down.  I think there has been a solid link mentioned on the forum to replace the chain when using the snowplow to get down pressure, I'll have to search for that. Bonus is I now have new switch/gauge and shift plates on the hood stand, new clutch rod and a new side plate on the left hand side covering the actuator.  I have some usable pieces left over that someone can have for shipping price, I'll have to put them in the classified section (last picture). Thanks all for the suggestions. 

[Handy Don 10,567]

51 minutes ago, Panther416-8 said:

if I don't go crazy with the up and down.

 

The solid link is a simple piece of bar cut to the right length. Searching here will likely give you a post with the dimensions.

 

That said, the solid link is less useful with hydraulics and electric lifts since it locks the blade up/down position to the tractor. This means the plow cannot easily follow the dips and bumps in the surface being plowed. You WILL be going crazy on the up and down.

 

With the "armstrong" lift, the operator can keep downforce while yielding to the plow as it follows the terrain.