Looking at a toro 520H

[stegs 327]

27 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

You might have to share that. I have used just regular blade style fuse holders as pictured below. Changing out the original to original would be a real chore. Lots of wires stretched piano wire tight  under it. Below the fuse block is a cluster of plug in relays check that area as well. 

 

 

The upgrade fuse panel i found was actually sold thru another wheel horse forum online shop

 

Its a similar style, but does seperate all 3 fuses and has 12g wire included (and fuses i think)

 

its 22 dollars, but according to the description it says "correct this issue for the last time" or something along those line.

 

heavier wire, 3 seperate fuses all for 22 dollars and hopefully put a  end to fuse block issues

 

 

 

i did watch a youtube video last night on a guy working on his 520h. It was a no start situation, however towards the end of the video he found out that if he took a fuse, and bent the "fines" on the fuse slightly, it fit more snug in the fuse block and his tractor fired up

 

What if that is what i have. Fuse is just loose in there. Once i hit a bump, the fuse looses contact and tractor dies?

 

I want to clean each wire connection just to be safe, but still. What if the fuse looses contact in the holder and thats is my issues all along ! 

[lynnmor 7,848]

1 hour ago, stegs said:

Fuse is just loose in there. Once i hit a bump, the fuse looses contact and tractor dies?

 

I want to clean each wire connection just to be safe, but still. What if the fuse looses contact in the holder and thats is my issues all along ! 

 

Once you pull the fuse holder and look at the bottom, the questions may be answered.  Heat from a corroded connection can weaken or burn the metal and melt the plastic.  If you clean, repair or replace the fuse block, coat all connections with a bit of No-Ox to prevent corrosion.  Adding a cover will keep moisture holding debris out.

[WHX?? 51,865]

1 hour ago, stegs said:

old thru another wheel horse forum online shop

Ahh you mean this one then... same fuse holder just has the pigtails pre-attached for a bit easier install. 

Bending the fuse blade is just dealing with the symptom not the cause. In fire fighter speak you are getting rid of the smoke but not putting out the fire. 

 

Edited February 10, 2022 by WHX??

[stegs 327]

9 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Ahh you mean this one then... same fuse holder just has the pigtails pre-attached for a bit easier install. 

Bending the fuse blade is just dealing with the symptom not the cause. In fire fighter speak you are getting rid of the smoke but not putting out the fire. 

 

 

yes that is the one. Thier online shop is down,but yes that is what i wanted to order to fix this issue

[lynnmor 7,848]

1 hour ago, stegs said:

 

yes that is the one. Thier online shop is down,but yes that is what i wanted to order to fix this issue

 

 

That's fine, but I wouldn't want yet another bunch of splices.

[Jeff-C175 7,206]

3 hours ago, stegs said:

fit more snug

 

One thing that can happen is that the heat that is generated from a corroded connection causes the so-called 'spring contacts' to lose their temper and they are no longer springs so they don't grip the blades of the fuse properly... then they get hotter... and hotter... inward spiral into the black hole.

Edited February 10, 2022 by Jeff-C175

[Jeff-C175 7,206]

21 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

another bunch of splices

 

Unless they were properly done wire splices with solder and heat shrink.  and definitely NOT more crimped butt splices!

 

[WHX?? 51,865]

1 hour ago, Jeff-C175 said:

 they get hotter... and hotter... inward spiral into the black hole.

I was gonna liken it to a runaway train Jeffrey but that nails it. 

 

Agreed on no butt splices. I solder and shrink wrap stuff like this but wiring  and running wiring diagrams is one of my strong suits. Welding???..... Ahhh not so much so! 

 

BTW Stegs thank you for keeping us updated on your progress. All too often we have a member come and jack us like a pump handle for info and we never hear from them again. We enjoy knowing if our help helps or not.  We never tire from helping a person out with his horse and often we can learn. 

Edited February 10, 2022 by WHX??

[WHX?? 51,865]

2 hours ago, lynnmor said:

 

 

That's fine, but I wouldn't want yet another bunch of splices.

I wouldn't either but getting in there and cutting out the old and crimping in the new is not exactly a job for the laymen. I have the professional tools to do it and it's still a project. Not like they gave you extra wire in the harness to work with either. 

[lynnmor 7,848]

6 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

I wouldn't either but getting in there and cutting out the old and crimping in the new is not exactly a job for the laymen. I have the professional tools to do it and it's still a project. Not like they gave you extra wire in the harness to work with either. 

 

Remove the battery and the bracket holding the fuse block.  Free up the wires as best you can, it ain't as bad as you think. 

[peter lena 9,301]

@stegs  just the mention of piano tight wiring  is a no / no for me . when i rewire any area , the wires are in cable wrap , and comfortably held in place with  those heavy plastic  screw / bolt loops . no wire chafing, detail grounding , make problem area  go away . those areas can be eliminated , with a complete change out on design and connections . do not be afraid to change out a nagging wire issue.  pete  

[Horse Newbie 7,395]

12 hours ago, lynnmor said:

If a bump kills the ignition, maybe the seat switch is at fault.

That’s what I was thinking…

[WHX?? 51,865]

57 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

  Free up the wires as best you can

Bit of an under statement ther  Lynn... I did it twice and never again. Be alot easier doing on a frame up resto. Don't think Stegs is gonna go that route. 520 wiring harness are definitely not known for being user friendly. 

[Handy Don 14,124]

7 minutes ago, WHX?? said:

Bit of an under statement ther  Lynn... I did it twice and never again. Be alot easier doing on a frame up resto. Don't think Stegs is gonna go that route. 520 wiring harness are definitely not known for being user friendly. 

 

I agree. Lots going on there and not a lot of room to do it--WH kept a lot of the runs pretty snug. I too, have added some soldered/shrinked extensions but I had it pretty well dismantled at the time and I couldn't figure out the original routings (error Don--not enough "before" pictures!)

[Horse Newbie 7,395]

2 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

pretty well dismantled at the time and I couldn't figure out the original routings 

If I move more than 5-6 wires at once, you can bet they’re probably not gonna end up in their original place…

[peter lena 9,301]

@Horse Newbie  easy cure for that ,https://www.google.com/search?q=alligator+clip+jumper+wires&sxsrf=APq-WBs_, have a couple of these sets , clip onto start / stop wires , verify problem , and rewire / reroute this problem out of your horse , (   only if you want to ) you do not have to do this , but when I  regularly see a similar issue, my first question is , why doesn't  this guy /  gal, jump / connect over the problem area ?  to me its obvious and hiding in plane site . another no / no ,thing I  do is to reroute ,and cable wrap all my work , no tight chafing wires , enhanced grounding at every stage , support tye ups , do not replace wiring without a make it better change .  many midnight call ins , make me look at things differently. no more wire issues , keep it grounded  and greasy , pete  

[stegs 327]

21 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@Horse Newbie  easy cure for that ,https://www.google.com/search?q=alligator+clip+jumper+wires&sxsrf=APq-WBs_, have a couple of these sets , clip onto start / stop wires , verify problem , and rewire / reroute this problem out of your horse , (   only if you want to ) you do not have to do this , but when I  regularly see a similar issue, my first question is , why doesn't  this guy /  gal, jump / connect over the problem area ?  to me its obvious and hiding in plane site . another no / no ,thing I  do is to reroute ,and cable wrap all my work , no tight chafing wires , enhanced grounding at every stage , support tye ups , do not replace wiring without a make it better change .  many midnight call ins , make me look at things differently. no more wire issues , keep it grounded  and greasy , pete  

 

 

 

update 2-11-22

 

Got the kids to bed early last so I headed for the barn to work on the tractor again.

 

Last nights agenda was the electrical issue i have. For those not following along, This 520 starts and runs great. However, when i would plow with it (when i hit bump in the concrete driveway with the plow) it would "jolt" the tractor and it would die. No power, no electrical activity at all. Completely dead

 

So I cleaned and check the 9 pin connector the other night. I looked good. Dirty, but nothing burned. Cleaned it up and put dielectric grease on the pins. Took the 520 back out to plow, and it died again

 

So now i had it narrowed down to the fuse block

 

So here we go.

 

Unhooked the battery. Followed the negative cable from the battery, down to the ground. Undid that bolt, cleaned it again, and tightened it down. Negative cable is done

 

did the same with positive cable. Followed that down to the starter. Took it off the starter (and the little wire per recommendation from a member here) Cleaned with contact cleaner, reinstalled and tightened down. Positive is done

 

Next was the voltage regulator on the top of the motor. Cleaned those, dielectric grease and reinstalled

 

next was the key switch, removed, cleaned, dielectric grease and reinstalled. 

 

Last was the fuse block. Removed screws and fuses. I looked at the fuse block and it looked great. Little dirty, but no burning, no melting, no hot spots on the wires. (a big relief for me)

 

blasted it multiple times with contact cleaner and compressed air. I got some junk out, but not much.

 

Here is where it gets interesting. I looked closely at the top of the fuse block itself. Where the fuses slide in

 

2 out of the 3, the gap seemed wider than the other. One fuse, fit in rather snug. The other 2 fuses are tight but no where near as tight as the 15 amp fuse.

 

Thinking maybe that was my issue???

 

Anyway, cleaned and reinstalled fuses, this time with dielectric grease on each blade of the fuses. 

 

 

Took it out and "knock on wood" it worked 

 

Only time will tell at this point, however Im thinking that fuse block should be replaced sooner than later. If those fuses are a little loose, that could lead to heat and melting.

 

 

So that is my next step. I have a friend who has the tool to remove the wires from the fuse block.  I think ill do that and use a standard fuse block again (thinking about all the splices in the upgrade) not really wanting to mess with that

 

 

 

 

Last question for you all. I read somewhere you can take a wire out of the 9 pin connector and it removes alot of load from it. Someone wired in a inline fuse to save the 9 pin connector

 

I can do that, but can someone tell me what wire it is? and what size wire and fuse to use?

 

 

I dont have any issues now, just trying to save my 520h from melting anything. Id rather blow a in line fuse than melt a harness

[lynnmor 7,848]

23 minutes ago, stegs said:

 

Last question for you all. I read somewhere you can take a wire out of the 9 pin connector and it removes alot of load from it. Someone wired in a inline fuse to save the 9 pin connector

 

I can do that, but can someone tell me what wire it is? and what size wire and fuse to use?

 

I dont have any issues now, just trying to save my 520h from melting anything. Id rather blow a in line fuse than melt a harness

 

You can leave things as they are and add a wire from the B+ terminal on the voltage regulator down to the battery connection on the solenoid.   Put an inline fuse where it is convenient.

[peter lena 9,301]

@stegs  that fuse block is what i,m talking about , take advantage of that working , replace it and enhance it , detail in the related wiring. what ever works , look it over for possible upgrades ,  personally , the positive run time will give you confidence and insight into correcting related areas , keep it going , pete