Snoopy11 5,718 #51 Posted February 7, 2022 2 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said: Hmmm... you'll use them on customer equipment but not your own stuff? That's sorta strange, dontcha think? Have you cut them open to compare to see if your 'well made' and/or 'better' holds true? Here we go with filters again... I actually do cut filters open. I have to in the Ranger to verify no metal flakes, chunks, etc. I do know what filter is the best... in my experience... (it certainly isn't fram). I wouldn't use a fram filter in any engine... including a small engine. Too much paper... ...Ford motorcraft is 'okay' but not something I would use long-term in performance applications... SO... here is what I use... on everything I can... K&N... The resin-impregnated cellulose filter media quality and anti-drainback valve quality in K&N oil filters is superior... When I cut the K&N filter apart... I was THOROUGHLY surprised at the difference in quality, after using motorcraft for break-in purposes. Fram... I just stay away from altogether... for every application. I... go slither back under my rock... Don 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 28,537 #52 Posted February 7, 2022 17 minutes ago, ohiofarmer said: congrats on a great steal of a deal. i have rustled a few in that state up North.. Ohio…? Ohio…? Oh yea… that’s down south of Heaven somewhere isn’t it??? We gotta increase our southern border guardin’… (not that southern border) 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,718 #53 Posted February 7, 2022 10 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said: Fram... I just stay away from altogether... for every application. 'cept for maybe... filtering coffee or something like that... Don 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,582 #54 Posted February 7, 2022 33 minutes ago, Jeff-C175 said: Hmmm... you'll use them on customer equipment but not your own stuff? That's sorta strange, dontcha think? Have you cut them open to compare to see if your 'well made' and/or 'better' holds true? I only say it because ive cut open all of them, i bought a tool for doing just that, that doesnt dump metal in during cutting. Fram PH3614 is solid, i wont use a briggs filter, i use synthetics only in my own stuff and usually opt for a Wix XP filter that is intended specifically for synthetic oils, the PH3614 has a thicker case end and the layer of grip makes ripping off a filter after 3 years alot easier. If i cant get Fram i get Motorcraft FL910S. If a customer requests a specific filter, im happy to get it. If i dont have a new XP filter on hand for my own stuff ill use the Fram...if i didnt trust it i wouldn't buy it. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,718 #55 Posted February 7, 2022 1 minute ago, RED-Z06 said: if i didnt trust it i wouldn't buy it You... say you cut the Fram open... comparing it to other filters...yet you still trust the Fram? Wow... I guess... you have much more of an open-mind than I do... Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,718 #56 Posted February 7, 2022 3 hours ago, RED-Z06 said: I had a 383 stroker and a L98 5.7 both die from collapsed fram filters I haven't had an engine die from a bad oil filter... I just cut them open... look at them... and that alone tells me if I should buy it again or not... LET ALONE... if I had an engine die from using a filter... (any engine)... I probably wouldn't use that filter again... on anything... Just me... perhaps a bit paranoid... Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,582 #57 Posted February 7, 2022 25 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said: Here we go with filters again... I actually do cut filters open. I have to in the Ranger to verify no metal flakes, chunks, etc. I do know what filter is the best... in my experience... (it certainly isn't fram). I wouldn't use a fram filter in any engine... including a small engine. Too much paper... ...Ford motorcraft is 'okay' but not something I would use long-term in performance applications... SO... here is what I use... on everything I can... K&N... The resin-impregnated cellulose filter media quality and anti-drainback valve quality in K&N oil filters is superior... When I cut the K&N filter apart... I was THOROUGHLY surprised at the difference in quality, after using motorcraft for break-in purposes. Fram... I just stay away from altogether... for every application. I... go slither back under my rock... Don Not sure about current to date but at least a few years ago Royal Purple, Mobil1, and K&N filters were all made under the Fram/Champion Labs White private label line...i know Trico recently bought out one of the large companies. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,582 #58 Posted February 7, 2022 9 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said: You... say you cut the Fram open... comparing it to other filters...yet you still trust the Fram? Wow... I guess... you have much more of an open-mind than I do... Don These engines are not running 60+psi oil pressure, they will never see the conditions they would in a car...both failures i saw were thick cold oil with higher volume pumps, at higher rpms, builder confirmed in both cases that the bypass valves were not functioning correctly which..given that they are 99.9% of the time unused...they get overlooked and hang in full flow. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,718 #59 Posted February 7, 2022 (edited) 26 minutes ago, RED-Z06 said: K&N filters were all made under the Fram/Champion Labs I'd need a source for that. Not to mention... it has no relevance to quality for filtration purposes, comparatively among filters... Anyone who has cut different branded oil filters open... knows that there are differences in filtration material quality... additionally... I think there are copious amounts of pictures/video/etc... documenting the differences in filtration material in these filters. Fram usually being the worst for filtration purposes... Mobil-1 and K&N being the top tier... with Mobil-1 having better filtration, and K&N having solid filtration and a better flow rate. Don Edited February 7, 2022 by Snoopy11 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,708 #60 Posted February 7, 2022 Owned by Goldman Sachs 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,582 #61 Posted February 7, 2022 Bottom to top... Hipa (chinese) Motorcraft FL910S Fram PH3614 The fram does have the fiberous caps but the were both intact, it also had the heaviest case to cut, the bypass valve also had the tightest seal (had to use pliers). The FL910s came apart easiest but has a really nice filter cartridge 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,718 #62 Posted February 7, 2022 What... exactly are you saying... @RED-Z06 Don 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,582 #63 Posted February 7, 2022 I did see that Fram was purchased by Champ Labs who was purchased by Trico who became First Brands, who also owns LuberFiner among others including the Private label filters. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,582 #64 Posted February 7, 2022 8 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said: What... exactly are you saying... @RED-Z06 Don Just showing a few different filters, that fram was on ~250hrs on a Briggs 27hp Twin, I put the engine on new 5 years ago and took off the little stubby filter for the larger fram...he never changed it, he just added oil as needed...oil came out pitch black. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snoopy11 5,718 #65 Posted February 7, 2022 This... says it all... I guess if hard times come... and I want to go cheap... I'm going to go to Walmarts and buy a supertech filter... would be better quality that Fram cardboard glued paper mush... You learn something new every day... Don Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Southern_Secret 464 #66 Posted February 7, 2022 4 hours ago, stegs said: I read somewhere online that they are the same filter as a donaldson, just a different tag put on it at the end of the line This is true, the way filter companies work is they bid out the job to who ever has the best bid. So you might get a Baldwin filter made by Donaldson or the other way around. Wix is the only filter company that does not bid there filters out but they do bid on other brands to make filters for them. I'll get off my But I own a NAPA store so im partial to WIX, so take what I say with a grain of salt. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,582 #67 Posted February 7, 2022 1 minute ago, Southern_Secret said: This is true, the way filter companies work is they bid out the job to who ever has the best bid. So you might get a Baldwin filter made by Donaldson or the other way around. Wix is the only filter company that does not bid there filters out but they do bid on other brands to make filters for them. I'll get off my But I own a NAPA store so im partial to WIX, so take what I say with a grain of salt. Wix Wix XP and NAPA gold are by far to me the best filters on the market, they are huge overkill on a mower but..i do love them. I also worked for a NAPA store for 3 years 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RED-Z06 2,582 #68 Posted February 7, 2022 11 minutes ago, Snoopy11 said: This... says it all... I guess if hard times come... and I want to go cheap... I'm going to go to Walmarts and buy a supertech filter... would be better quality that Fram cardboard glued paper mush... You learn something new every day... Don Again...in the application at hand, they are fine, and clearly hold up to abuse well beyond what could be expected...this is personal experience, over many years, not youtube mechanics. I wouldnt use one on my car...but in low pressure applications with a 50hr recommended service interval, the PH3614 and FL910s do very well...and the heavy fram case is nice to have when the filter feels glued on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lynnmor 7,848 #69 Posted February 7, 2022 Back to the OP's needs, I use either Onan 122-0800 or Fleetguard LF3339, both are from Cummins and will serve you well. If you search for the Fleetguard they can be found for a reasonable price. An Onan box might actually contain the Fleetguard. When you use a cross reference chart you might wind up with a filter that is the wrong length or diameter to hold the rubber grommet in place. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nylyon-(Admin) 7,961 #70 Posted February 8, 2022 I’ve removed a couple posts containing personal attacks. Quote The purpose of WheelHorseForum.com is to discuss Wheel Horse tractors. Members are encouraged to participate in all areas of the forum, but refrain from offensive language, pictures, gestures, or any actions meant to provoke other members whether directly or indirectly. Any additional personal attacks will result in a 15 day suspension from the forum. 6 3 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 51,865 #71 Posted February 8, 2022 (edited) Just to ease the tension ... good man Coach... I would personally much more prefer insulting EB to his face. We both would much more enjoy it. Ther is no room here for such attacks and I will not tolerate either. Stay on topic fellas. Stegs has scored a nice 520 let's just enjoy it. Edited February 8, 2022 by WHX?? Gramma 2 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stegs 327 #72 Posted February 8, 2022 (edited) 11 hours ago, WHX?? said: Just to ease the tension ... good man Coach... I would personally much more prefer insulting EB to his face. We both would much more enjoy it. Ther is no room here for such attacks and I will not tolerate either. Stay on topic fellas. Stegs has scored a nice 520 let's just enjoy it. Im going to ask 3 more question if i may.... Last night after work, i took it out to do some plowing. Ran into 2 issues 1. The tractor would be running fine and I would randomly loose all power, no electrical power or anything. Thought it was my seat switch ground as i found a bare wire. Disabled seat switch. Tried again, and died again. It would start up again a few min later, unsure what the cause was Last night after my fire department meeting, i took a look at the 9 pin connector. Took it apart and a bunch of crud came out, and some of the pins were bluish , like tarnish almost. Im going to get some electrical cleaner and die electric grease and clean it up tonight Could that be the cause of it just shutting off? Both times it happened is when i hit a bump in the concrete with the plow. It would give the tractor a very minor shake and it would die. question 2. fairly simple. My upper/full rpm surge came back last night. I read about this drain plug/main jet. Where is this plug located on the carb? I read that you should undo the plug, then spray carb cleaner right into the main jet, however i dont know where that is. Last time i sprayed cleaner in the top half of the carb, cleaned that needle out with the holes and then did the little holes in the bottom half? . I never removed anything other than the top of the carb Where is this drain plug/main jet? Im going to guess thats my problem. Lack of fuel on upper rpms #3. I followed the suggestion for the hydro adjust. Never knew it was so easy. However, it seems i have to move the motion lever about half way up before the tractor begins to move? is this normal? i feel it should move forward as soon as i move the lever. Did i mess up the adjustment or is there something i missed? All in all, just a couple bugs i got to work out. If you guys/gals could give me a couple pointers on these 2 issues, i plan on tinkering with it again tonight, and doing some fluid changes. This place is a wealth of knowledge and I do appreciate everyones help. Thank you so much! Edited February 8, 2022 by stegs 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chestnut 315 #73 Posted February 8, 2022 19 hours ago, stegs said: Then it hit me. I bet its the neutral safety switch!!!. I turned the key to the start postition and wiggled the drive lever and IT CRANKED!! not knowing where the neutral safety was located at the time, i cranked it while wiggling the drive lever. Cranked over but would not fire. Took a look a the fuel filter (which i replaced with a new one) and had no fuel going to the filter Now I just need to figure out how to adjust the creep out of the hydro trans. Ill mess with that this week sometime Congratulations on the new tractor. Horse Newbie was correct about the procedure for adjusting the creep out of the Hydro. However, since you also have an issue with the neutral safety, there's a possibility that the PO or their shop "adjusted" you into both problems. Before I adjusted anything and with the tractor off I'd remove the vertical access panel below the dash and the horizontal one between the dash and seat pan. Four large Phillips screws each. The neutral safety switch is behind the vertical panel. You should be able to see the switch being opened and closed as you move the motion control lever through its range. When you depress the brake motion control rod should move to the position where the safety switch is activated. If it's not, there's a possibility the PO or their shop "adjusted" one of the links on the motion control cam. The motion control cam links to the brake system and should bring everything to neutral when you press the pedal. As you can see from the photo there are threaded links from each side of the motion control cam that could have been moved. I'm sure there will be someone on this forum will have the procedure for re-centering the whole linkage if need be.. If you do make any changes either to the linkage or to the cam on the hydro drive, make sure the rear tires are jacked off the ground and supported when you attempt to start the engine. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stegs 327 #74 Posted February 8, 2022 3 minutes ago, Chestnut said: Congratulations on the new tractor. Horse Newbie was correct about the procedure for adjusting the creep out of the Hydro. However, since you also have an issue with the neutral safety, there's a possibility that the PO or their shop "adjusted" you into both problems. Before I adjusted anything and with the tractor off I'd remove the vertical access panel below the dash and the horizontal one between the dash and seat pan. Four large Phillips screws each. The neutral safety switch is behind the vertical panel. You should be able to see the switch being opened and closed as you move the motion control lever through its range. When you depress the brake motion control rod should move to the position where the safety switch is activated. If it's not, there's a possibility the PO or their shop "adjusted" one of the links on the motion control cam. The motion control cam links to the brake system and should bring everything to neutral when you press the pedal. As you can see from the photo there are threaded links from each side of the motion control cam that could have been moved. I'm sure there will be someone on this forum will have the procedure for re-centering the whole linkage if need be.. If you do make any changes either to the linkage or to the cam on the hydro drive, make sure the rear tires are jacked off the ground and supported when you attempt to start the engine. I did take the panel off. The Lever rod does make contact with the NSS. The NSS has a small bend in the metal, and that is where the rod stops. Im not having that issue anymore and the tractor starts up and the touch of th key What i have now is the motion lever is halfway up before the tractor begins to move. I feel as if the tractor should move as soon as i push the motion lever forward....but it doesnt 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chestnut 315 #75 Posted February 8, 2022 3 minutes ago, stegs said: I did take the panel off. The Lever rod does make contact with the NSS. The NSS has a small bend in the metal, and that is where the rod stops. Im not having that issue anymore and the tractor starts up and the touch of th key What i have now is the motion lever is halfway up before the tractor begins to move. I feel as if the tractor should move as soon as i push the motion lever forward....but it doesnt Sounds like you found the source of the electrical issue. A search through old posts will show a few discussions about the problems with this connector. A picture of the cam on top of the hydro unit would help. Some of them can be worn or "modified". One of mine requires the motion lever to be moved a lot to go forward as well. I don't know the answer. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
